The modern Veldtschoen method is the only one where the upper material is flanged outwards during the lasting process.
CHAPTER-ONE 1.1 Introduction about Veldtschoen construction: The name of this construction stems from the Dutch Veldskoen (fild shoe). It is interesting to note that it was much used by the Boer settler in South Africa but the method has been known for many countries. The modern Veldtschoen method is the only one where the upper material is flanged outwards during the lasting process and attached by adhesive and stitching to a layer of material known as the runner or middle. This runner replaces the insole used in other methods. The sole is attached by adhesion. Veldtschoen is also often known as “stitched down construction”. 1.2
Aims of this project work:
The main aim of this project work is to know the veldtschoen construction system and to make a pair of shoe in this construction. Others goals are: •
To know about the pattern making for this construction.
•
To know which types of materials are used for this purpose?
•
To study the last this is suitable for this.
To study the advantages and disadvantages of this construction
1.3 Aim of my project: The aim of project is to develop such a Sandal which is accepted worldwide from the various perimeters. 1.4 Methodology: 1. An attempt of lasting method to develop footwear by means of thread with insole providing that the operations are carried out in the correct way, the upper will conform itself. 2. Complete overview on the product development procedure. 1.5 Expected outcomes: A pair of gent’s sandal prototype and drawing the conclusion and recommendation. CHAPTER-TWO
2.1: FOOTWEAR In English, the term "shoe" dates back to many centuries beginning with the Anglo Sexon. "Sceo" meaning a foot covering and evolving into "Schewis", then "Schooys" and finally "shoe". The German "Schuh" has the name origin. Through the centuries the word "shoe" has evolved with at least 17 different spelling and some 36 variations of the plural. Any foot covering in the form of shoes, boots, slippers or hose used for utility and dress wear. Any form of footwear made of various kinds of materials or combination of materials like leather, canvas, rubber, textiles, wood and synthetics to protect the foot from cold, heat, thorns, hazards etc. and to serve as a costume in the form of sandal, shoe or boot. These shall include walking shoes, dress shoes, occasional footwear, sports footwear, occupational footwear, orthopedic and surgical footwear meant for the use of babies, children, ladies or gents. 2.2: HISTORY OF SHOE AND SHOE MAKING
Shoe – without shoe a human being cannot live. Even the primitive human being might have covered his for warmth and protection. The first "shoes" might well have been pieces of rush, bark or hide tied around the feet to protect the sole. The Egyptians covered their feet by woven palm and papyrus leaves. The Greek and the Romans sported sandal types made of felt, wood or leather, with flat shoes and lacings. Men have been wearing hoses possibly since 10,000 B.C. it was no until about 1850 that they were first made as “rights” and lefts”. Prior to that, all shoes were “straights”. Shoes reminded basically utilitarian until the Greek and the Roman periods when they began to be regarded as items of clothing and vital parts of wardrobe. The Romans rarely went barefoot, and styling was important because certain pairs of shoes indicated social positions of the wearers. In the 13th century, stylish people started wearing shoes with long, pointed toes. The toe points became so exaggerated that they were sometimes fastened to the knee by slender chains. Eventually the bizarre lengths were regulated by law. As per law, members of royal families could wear toes, of one length and commoners another. This continued till the end of the 15th century. Narrower, heeled shoe for women were trend during the region of Queen Elizabeth – 1 Men wore, soft, thigh-high boots with heels. The jack boot, a stiff boot favored by American planters in the colonies, appeared about 1665. The end of the 17 th century brought renewed popularity to low shoes, with red heels, square toes, and enormous butterfly bows that were eventually replaced by huge buckles. The 18th century bore the influence of French fashion. Decorated leather shoes or silk shoes on high heels set under the arch of the foot were in fashion. After the French revolution, enthusiasm for classic fashion brought back flat heels and sandals, and English style country clothes were worn with study boots. In Victorian England dainty feet were much admired. Slippers with square toes were fastened by ribbons that crossed at the ankle. In the orient, tall shoes were the range. Monks and noblemen took to platform shoes, as did geishas. The shoes, called Geats, rendered their wearers stiffer and more formal looking. Another fashion from the orient was the tabi sock. This separates the big toe from the other toes in order to accommodate the throng. Geats were converted to sandals by the Japanese and by virtue of sandals one could determine the social status of a person. Modern shoes, as we know them today, probably have their roots in Tudor and Elizabeth, England. Shoes were made with buttons, laces, and eyelet and in general, decorations of all kinds. Vestiges of these facets of shoe design are visible today. Prior to 1800 shoes were made by hand and fabrication was primitive. Very shortly thereafter and throughout the latter half of the 19th century, invention after invention bolstered the burgeoning shoe business. Modern mass production methods rapidly evolved and are currently in vogue. The application of computer in shoe production took place towards middle of the 20 th century. Today computer is used for last and shoe design, cutting, stitching lasting and finishing. A majority of the western countries have their own foot measurement system. It is interesting to note that shoes are manufactured in over three hundred sizes. The range spans a
baby’s size 0 (4inches) to a man’s size 16 and widths run the gamut of AAAA (too narrow) to EEE (too wide). There is no database available for fashion trends cycles. Historians aver that styles and fashion trends repeat themselves every twenty – five years or so. 2.3 History of Sandals : Sandals were the most common footwear in most early civilizations; however, a few early cultures had shoes. In Mesopotamia, (c. 1600–1200 BC) a type of soft shoes were worn by the mountain people who lived on the border of Iran. The soft shoe was made of wraparound leather, similar to a moccasin. "As late as 1850 most shoes were made on absolutely straight lasts, there being no difference between the right and the left shoe."
Sport Sandal: The term "sport sandals" was first coined by Ken Young. Young's sandal patent (with nylon webbing) was issued on April 2, 1974 - U.S. Patent # 3,800,444. 2.4 PURPOSE OF FOOTWEAR The shoe has two primary functions to perform and has acquired through the years other lesser ones. The primary functions are: a) To protect the sole of the foot from the heat, cold, dampness, dirt or roughness of the ground in walking and standing. In its simplest form this is achieved in the primitive "sandal" which is nothing more less than a piece of leather, wood or other material, fixed under the foot by a strap or other means. b) To the upper part of the foot, and if required, the leg, from cold, rain, thorns, heat and insect or other bites. In its simplest form this is a bag of leather or material wrapped round the foot and is here given the generic name of "Moccasin". It is essentially that worn by a hunter, as it is flexible and specially suited to forest conditions. Lesser functions are:
c) To assist the foot to perform some abnormal task. This includes the various sports such as football, cricket, hockey, running, fishing, riding, mountaineering, dancing, etc. all of which today have their own special footwear. So, also, have many trades, such as mining, deep-sea diving, munitions manufacture and fire-fighting, and the armed services. It should be noted here that more primitive peoples with much stronger and tougher feet can tackle many of these sports, pastimes or occupations without special shoes, or, in fact, without shoes of any kind. d) To complete a costume. This is particularly important today when costume designing includes not only the dress but also the hat, shoes. Gloves and handbag. In fact, the main purpose of the shoe may be to complete or enhance the remainder of the costume, the primary functions of foot-covering and sole-protection being subordinate to this. e) To indicate rank or office. This is not applicable in western civilizations, unless we include the notorious "jackboot in this category, but formerly it was important, certain types of shoe being restricted to certain classes; there is obviously a very close link here with the purpose stated in above Para. f) To overcome abnormalities in the foot itself, the surgical boot being the extreme example of this, while many shoes incorporate corrective devices, some more corrective in name than in fact. g) To fulfill the fashion. In some cases, the protecting purpose becomes trivial and here the main purpose is to meet the fashion demand. 2.5 TYPES OF FOOTWEAR Footwear is broadly classified into seven basic styles: Footwear ↓ Seven basic styles ↓
Derby
Oxford
Court shoe
Pantafola
Moccasin
Sandal
Boot
1. DERBY: • Most commonly used formal and casual shoes. • A very wide range of styles can be derived from a derby design • Unisex • Can be identified from the following points: • Lock stitch or stay stitch • The quarter can be opened till half of the tread line. • The vamp and tongue will be on the same line. • In most of the cases quarter will be on the vamp. 2. OXFORD: • Most widely used as formal shoes. • Unisex • Quarter is locked at the vamp point and hence opening of the quarter is limited. • Has an independent tongue which is stitched at the final stage of the upper. • In most of the case vamp will be on the quarter. SANDALS: Popular unisex footwear which is very comfortable. The foot is free at the toe and heel. The sandals serves according to the specific needs as the length can be adjusted with the help of buckle. COURT SHOE: Shoes for ladies formal and casual wear. The top line will be below the vamp point Can be made in different heel heights. SLIP ON: Slip on is also called as pantafola & loafer. As the name indicates these shoes can be slipped in and slipped out very easily. Does not have lace. Can be with or without elastic Saddle is present in most of these designs. BOOT:
Casual shoes popular among kids and Teenagers Different types of boots are Ankle Boot, High boot, Knee boot & Thigh boot. MOCCACINE: The most comfortable shoe to wear Expensive as more leather is consumed Formal& casual shoe. Bottom will be covered with upper leather at the fore part Hand stitching gives a good appearance. CHAPTER -THREE CONSTRUCTION OR MAKING 3.1 Introduction to making : “Making” is the name given to the department in which all the component part of the upper and bottom are brought together to construct the shoe. There are a number of ways in which footwear can be made. Each particular method is known as a “Method of construction” and in each case will consist of a particular sequence of lasting operations allied to a specific method of sole attachment. It will be shown that one method of lasting can be often combined with one of several methods of sole attaching to from a variety of “Methods of construction.” These methods are often dictated by the use which is intended for the finished article 3.2 Construct of shoe Over one hundred operations go into the construction of a shoe. The first and most important of these is the creation of the last. The last is a hand-carved wood or moulded plastic replica of the human foot. The last determines the contour of the arch and how evenly the wearer’s weight will be distributed throughout the foot. A different last is required for each shoe style and size to be produced. Before a shoe can be made, as many as thirty-five measurements are taken from a footprint to show the distribution of the body weight. The maker judges the symmetry of the toes, calibrates the girth of the instep and ball of the foot, and calculates the height of the big toe and the contour of the instep. He or she must also estimate how the foot will move inside the shoe. All of these ratios must be addressed without compromising the architectural beauty of the shoe design. For a heeled shoe, the maker visualizes the heel height, than determines the size of the throat. Next the appropriate height of the shoe’s quarter is established. If it is too high it will rub the tendons, and if it is too low, the shoe will fail to grip the foot properly. Crucial to the fit of a shoe is the measurement of the shank curve, including the ball and instep. This is where the body’s weight falls when the foot is in motion. Using the last as a guide, the pattern maker cuts out the shoe upper and lining. The edges are then beveled to ensure a good fit and the pieces are then sewn together. Next, a toe
box is constructed, the counter is added, and the leather is soaked so it will easily conform to the lines of the last. The upper is positioned on the last, tautly stretching it before nailing it tightly onto the last. The upper dries on the last for two weeks before the sole and the heel can be attached. The final steps are to trim the welt, pare the heel, burnish the sole and add the insole lining. Last the shoe is polished and buffed, and it is ready for sale.
3.3 TYPES OF LAST: Definition: The wooden or metal or synthetic mould over which the footwear is constructed which gives the footwear, its shape in accordance with the volume of the foot. The last is reproduction of the approximate shape of human foot. Types: The footwear is fabricated on the last and to enable the last removed from the completed shoe three types of lasts are suggested viz. scoop block last, hinged last and solid block last. 1. Scoop block last: The last has a wedge cut on the tip. This cut starts from the inner and outer joint points and continues up to the top portion of the cone. This wedge can be detached from the main body of the last by a ″ Brush spring lock" or a “Split pin″. The last is taken out of the lasted shoe, by removing the wedge. This type of last is used for hand made shoe constructions and when the production capacity is less. 1. Hinged lasts: The last is cut in to two - the fore part and the back part, at the ″V" cut of the last. They are attached by a spring. The last can be bent in one direction about this hinge. During last slipping operation, the last is bent at the hinge and removed from the shoe. Used for all types of shoe constructions. 2. Solid block last: The last is a solid type with neither scoop or a hinge, solid block lasts are used for chappal and sandal making. 3.4 TYPES OF CONSTRUCTION There are various ways in which shoes are made and they are as follows: 1. Californian slip lasted construction 2. Veldtschoen construction 3. Cemented construction
4. Moulded construction 5. Welted construction 6. Silhouwelt construction 7. Lock-stitch through-sewn welt construction 8. Fairs itched construction 9. Moccasin construction 10. Machine-sewn(Black or Mckay)construction 11. Riveted construction 12. Riveted, screwed and stitched construction 13. Turn shoe construction 1.4. String construction 3.5 LASTING: What is lasting ? Lasting is the term supplied to the processes involved in stretching the upper material over the last and securing it to the bottom of the insole either with tacks or (cement) other wise. The upper will conform itself to the contours of the last and when the last is removed, upper retain the shape. Method of lasting: The closed upper is shaped to the required size, fitting and design in lasting and making department by "Lasting the upper". In the stage of operation of lasting, method and basic of lasting are observe. The following methods of lasting are as follows: a) Lasting down b) Lasting up c) Force lasting d) String lasting a. Lasting down In this lasting method upper and upper lining are lasted in between the insole and sole either with tacks and adhesive. The following types are available in the method: 1. Flat lasting:-
Upper placed on the last, is pulled down and turned on to the insole and attached either by tacks or adhesive or both. 2. Rib or welted lasting: The upper is pulled down, and secured to the insole rib and then the rib is sewn with a welt. 3. Veldtschoen lasting: The upper is pulled down, flanged out and secured by an adhesive to the runner and then stitched. 4. Lasting up : Moccasin is an example of lasting up in which the upper lasted goes up and practically called “Tube Last� and either with takes, thread and adhesive. This is one kind of force lasting as the slipped into the closed upper. b) Force lasting : The upper is forced over the front of the last with back strap being pushed into the orderly position. Examples are: 1. Moccasin lasting: The upper is pulled up that passes under the bottom of the foot acting as insole and attached by a seam to the apron. Thus a bag to give permanent shape or a metal foot is pushed into the shoe i. e. bag. 2. Californian lasting: The upper is sewn to the in sock and platform cover. The last is then slipped or forced in and the platform cover is then wrapped over the edge of the platform. And sole is attached. d) String lasting: This method of lasting has been gaining popularity in recent years as it replaces all lasting operations with a simple operation, with the use of special string. Stitching machine is used to attach a strong string the edge of the lasting allowance of the upper.
CHAPTER- FIVE VELDTSCHOEN CONSTRUCTION 5.1 Introduction
As mentioned previously in the Introduction to making, the Veldtschoen construction (also known as the stitched-down construction) is distinctive in the method of lasting employed. It is the only one whore the lasting allowance is turned outwards. The allowance is stuck down onto a laminated "runner" which takes the place of the insole. After lasting, the upper and runner are lock-stitched together close to the feather edge, the sole and heel then being stuck to the bottom of the runner. There are many variations of this construction. The upper may be flanged out only around the forepart, back to the heel breast, or completely around the upper. We shall take the full Veldtschoen with a plantation crepe sole and heel as our standard.
Runner Preparation
Fig: Veldtschoen construction 5.2 Flow chart for Veldtschoen construction:
Assembly Preparation of Sole, Heel Seat Flanging of Upper and Bottom of Runner with Adhesive or Solvent Lasting using Adhesive Attachment of Sole Heat Setting to Bottom of Runner Outsole Stitching of Upper to Runner Finishing Operations Press Cutting of Sole and Heel Removal from Last Treeing Operations
5.3 Choice of last for Veldtschoen construction: 1. Beveled feather edge gives a sharp 90 degree angle on the upper where it is turned out wards to give neat appearance of the upper flanging outwards and assist in stitching. 2. Only has seat plate tack lasting. 3. Waist is wide to help stitching in the area. (As the area has curvature and feather edge is more towards inside, so the necessary width in waist will ease making operation).
Fig: Selected wooden last 5.4 The construction is processed as follows : Insert Stiffeners Stiffener, skived to a knife edge, is inserted between the upper and Counter lining, keeping the edge of the stiffener to the lasting edges of the Upper and Lining. Traditionally, the stiffener has been of leather or fiber board dipped into a liquid latex-based adhesive. The more modern practice, however, is to use a thermoplastic-coated stiffener. The correct result must be: (a) Stiffener flush to lasting edge (b) Clean work with no stains (c) No creases in linings (d) Correct stiffener
Seat Flanging Heated moulds similar in shape to the back part of the last are used to mould the upper and lining to the approximate shape of the last. Simultaneously, heated plates flange the lasting allowance outwards approximately 12 - 14mm (1/2 - 9/16"). This not only pre-shapes the seat of the upper and lining for the later operation of seat lasting but also determines the correct back height of the upper. Because of the heat employed it is inadvisable to use vegetable-tanned linings as they will shrivel or burn quite easily. The correct result must be:(a) Correct width of flange around seat to produce correct back height. (b) No creased linings (c) No damage to upper or lining from excessive heat (d) No damage to upper seams Rough Runners The runner is usually made of leather or leather board combined with a layer of rubber. Roughing of the leather or leather board is carried out using a rotating wire brush, to a width of 3/8" from the edge. This roughing is for adhesion purposes at lasting. The correct result must be: (a) Runner roughed to specified width (b) Roughing to be complete and of sufficient depth (c) No damage to runner Mulling : The uppers are conditioned in a rapid conditioning cabinet for 20 - 30 minutes before lasting. Toe Lasting (Toe Forming) The two principal machines for this operation are the B.U.S.M.C. No. 2 Veldt Toe Former and the Walther Toe Lasting machine. The object of the operation is to tension the upper over the last for good shape retention, flanging the upper outwards and combining it to the margin of the runner. Thus, the upper is formed to the correct shape of the last around the toe. The Walther machine is twin-headed. It is usual with the U.S.M.C. Machines to use a pair of single-head machines, side by side. In each case the left head is fitted with toe plates for left shoes and the right for right shoes. This eliminates changing for lefts and rights. Originally the runner was attached to the last bottom with staples. This has; now been eliminated, the runner being held in the machine to align it correctly to the last. The upper is held by machine pincers, pulled down and stuck firmly to the runner margin by heated toe plates. The correct result must be:-
(a) (b) (c) (d) (e) (f) (g)
Uppers tight to wood Uppers correctly balanced Patterns square Upper well bonded to runner with well defined feather edge Toe to be exact shape of last Correct allowance of runner over edge of last No plate marks
Seat and Waist Lasting The seat of the upper, previously moulded and flanged is brought down on to the seat of the runner. Here it is finally shaped and stuck to the runner sea this is carried out on the Standard seat lasting machine. The machine is a simple one having a pair of heated plates, suitable for lefts and rights, which can be adjusted for position and amount of wiping action by the awl. A barb on the needle picks up the thread to start the formation of a stitch. The barb pulls a loop of thread upwards through the material and transfers it to the hook of the shuttle. This shuttle, revolving around a bobbin of waxed thread, cakes the loop around the bobbin. The machine causes the loop to be pulled tightly back into the material, pulling the waxed thread with it to form a lock-stitch in the centre of the substance. The length of stitch can be adjusted on the machine. It is usual to have a bobbin winding machine close to the outsole stitched to maintain a supply of pre-wound waxed bobbins. The correct result must be:(a) (b) (c) (d)
Correct stitch length Correct tension Stitching tight to feather edge Correct start and stop position
(e)
No damage to upper
Bottom Pressing During lasting and stitching the runner is often pulled out of shape. To form the runner to the bottom contours of the last and ensure that the edge is flat, the shoe bottoms are pressed. The machine consists of a water-filled loather pad and clamping arms. The shoe is placed under the clamping arms with the bottom resting on the pad box. Hydraulic pressure is applied to the base of the pad so pushing the shoe upwards, thus re-shaping the runner to the bottom of the last. Rough Rounding A reciprocating knife, with an oscillating feed, is used to trim excess upper and runner to a uniform shape around the shoe. This is not the finished edge of the shoe-only a profile for the final edge finish at a later stage. Sometimes this operation is carried out after sole attachment. The correct result must be:-
(a)
Correct edge distance and edge at right angle to runner
(b)
No damage (see chapter entitled "Conditioning of Uppers") .
Naphtha Soles and Heels Solvent naphthalene is applied to the runner bottom, the inner face of the sole, the heel area of the sole and the heel. This serves to produce a film of rubber solution on these surfaces. The film is allowed to dry to a 'tacky' condition and then the soles and heels are attached. The solvent must be applied over the whole surface area. Sole and Heel Attach The sole and heel are positioned to the bottom of the shoe and the shoe is placed into the sole attaching machine. This serves to press the sole and heel firmly to the bottom of the runner giving permanent attachment. The usual machine has inflatable, leather covered pads and clamping arms for pressing the sole and heel to the shoe. An application of detergent liquid is given to the surface of the crepe sole and heel because at edge paring fine particles of crepe removed by the rotating cutter will permanently attach themselves to the sole and heel . The detergent prevents this and is allowed to dry before edge paring. The correct result must be : (a) Soles and heels correctly positioned (b) Soles and heels securely stuck (c) Detergent applied evenly to entire sole and heel Edge Paring The edges of the soles and heels have to be trimmed and pared to a uniform, smooth finished appearance. This is done using high-speed rotating cutters. Usually the edge has a square, upright appearance in the finished shoe. Operator skill does much to determine the smooth finish required. The speed of the cutter shaft is usually 9,000 - 10,000 revolutions per minute, thus considerable care on the part of the operator is necessary to avoid removing too much material. To obtain a good finish the crepe must be kept as cool as possible. Should it be allowed to get overheated crepe will soften and drag against the cutter. Some manufacturers have the crepe edges 'stoned' or scoured after pairing to ensure a really smooth edge. The abrasive stone is fitted to a second shaft on the paring machine and runs at 8,000 - 9,000 r.p.m. The operator must be always aware of the safety factor due to the high speed and sharpness of the cutter and stone. A grinding attachment is fitted to the machine so that the operator can sharpen his cutter as necessary.
The correct result must be:(a) Correct width of welt (edge distance from upper) (b) Square smooth edges (c) Crepe dust removed cleanly from edges (d) No burnt runner edges. (Due to blunt cutter or stone) (e) No damage to stitches or upper (f) Sole and heel shape to be uniform and matching in pairs Edge Paring Developments During recent years a number of machinery manufacturers have attempted to develop machines which would automate or semi -automate this operation. One of the most notable among these has been the Torricelli Auto Edge Trimming machine developed by Torricelli, an Italian firm. This machine works on the basis of a tungsten-carbide cutter rotating at 9,000 -10,000 r.p.m. at about operator waist level. The shoe is placed on to a cone-shaped rest and the sole edge being inserted under a circular guard covering the cutter. By adjusting the size of guard different edge distances can be determined. Trimming is carried out by traversing the shoe in a horizontal plane against the cutter. In theory, it is possible to trim the shoe without rough-rounding but this has been found to be only practical on certain size ranges. An essential part of the technique is precision-grinding of the cutter blades using a diamond abrasive stone. A separate machine is supplied for this purpose. At the time of writing development of guards, cutters and techniques is still taking place. Edge Inking An even coating of dry-bright wax emulsion is applied to the edge of the flanged upper and runner with a fine brush. This imparts a gloss to the edge, improving the appearance and sealing the edge. Alternatively, the whole of the edge may be coated with a viscous rubber dye to give a contrasting appearance. Brush Uppers The complete shoe is brushed on a rotating bristle brush to remove any crepe rubber dust or crumbs which may be left on the upper. Slip Lasts The shoes are now complete. The lasts are removed from the shoes arid they are ready to move into the Treeing department.
MY DEVELOPED PRODUCT
Fig: Top View of the product
Fig: Top & bottom View of the product CHAPTER –SIX Manufacturing of the product 6.1
Introduction:
This chapter is the body of my project work as this chapter contains the methodology for the Veldtschoen construction system and how a Veldtschoen construction lasted sandal is made is described in this chapter. After the literature review, start the work practically and this is known as ‘Primary Research’. I divide my total work for sandal making into six divisions and one individual division is also sub-divided. The main six divisions’ are1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Pattern Making Cutting Closing Lasting Sole attaching Finishing
Fig: Forme Placing 6.2
Fig: Patterns
Operational Sequences to produce Sandal
A) Pattern Making ↓ Masking or tape the last ↓ Draw the design on the last ↓ Cut the forms ↓ Cut the pattern (upper & bottom) ↓ B. Cutting ↓ Marking the components and materials ↓ Cutting all components
↓ C. closing ↓ Skiving ↓ Stitch Marking ↓ Fixing the components ↓ Sewing the upper ↓ Trim the extra thread ↓ D) LASTING ↓ Slip the last ↓ Heat setting ↓ Flanging outwards the upper ↓ Stitching upper with insole ↓ Roughing and brushing ↓ Priming ↓ Cementing ↓ Drying ↓ Heat activation ↓ Attaching ↓ E) SOLE ATTACHMENT ↓ Roughing ↓ Priming ↓ Heel attaching ↓ Cementing ↓ Drying ↓ Heat activation ↓ Sole laying
↓ Sole pressing ↓ Delasting ↓ F) SHOE FINISHING ↓ Edge trimming and smoothing ↓ Brushing ↓ Edge inking ↓ Brushing the shoe with cream ↓ Polishing the mop ↓ Packaging 6.3 Pattern making for veldtschoen construction: Pattern making is important here. The process of producing this pattern follows a different procedure from most others. There are mean form and standard. 1. Masking or tape the last: a) As this is to lasting down lasted pattern, the upper bottom lasting allowances are to be increased enough i.e. extra allowances must be kept and stitched marking is important to the insole as design. b) After completion of masking mark the center lines (Front and back). c) Mark the location notch positions. • Front and back centres • Sides of toe • Seat (where seat lasting normally finishes) Mark these location notches on to the upper and bottom of the masked last draw the design on the last. d) Then cut through the centre liner and feather edge of last. Thus the inside, outside and bottom forme are obtained. 2. Producing patterns: For upper Now complete the drawing on the inside and outside according to my design. And cut the components. All components do not require any lasting allowances except the underlay, folding and seam allowances:
Lasting allowances – 25mm Underlay allowance – 10 mm Trimming allowance – 5 mm For sock: From the bottom forme, the sock pattern is obtained by adding 3 mm allowance all around the forme and it is done so that there is no gathering of the upper during attachment. This eases lasting and enables firmer materials to be used. 3. Cutting: The different parts of sandal, also known as components viz. uppers, sock, EVA sheets are cut to the required shape and size from the respective materials used. At first, mark the all upper components on leather maintaining the direction of tightness; shades etc. then cut the all components using a hand knife. In the similar way, cut the sock cover from the respective materials. 4. Closing: 1. Skiving: Skiving is the reduction of material from the located area to avoid the bulkiness and to prevent the "print through" effect. It also helps to aid the construction i. e. helps to perform good sewing, folding etc. On my design the following types of skiving are done: a) Underlay skiving: Depth of skiving: Taper down gradually to the finist possible edge. Width of skiving: 10 mm. b) Folding skiving: Depth: Half of the material thickness Width: twice of the folding margin +1 mm roll over allowance (11 mm) c) Closed raw edge skiving: Depth of skiving: 2/3rd of material thickness Width of skiving: 2.5 mm 5. Sewing the upper: For upper closing, fix the components according to thread diagram temporarily with latex adhesive. Then stitch the upper. Thus the upper is closed. 6. Lining trimming:
After sewing the upper and lining the lining is to be trimmed off. This completes the work of closing. 6.4 LASTING: In veldtschoen construction lasting of sandal, lasting operations are very simple as temporarily attached to the bottom insole and heat setting is done and slipping the last over night. In lasting the followings are done: 1. Slip off the last & Stitching with footbed: The last is slipped out and the closed upper is attached to bottom insole by stitching along lasting feather edge. So to get better shape retention, last slipping is done after stitching. 2. Heat setting: Heat setting is carried out after the upper has been completely lasted. The main objective of this operation is to improve the better shape retention of the shoe. Heat setting g is done in, heat setting machine. Temperature: 100째c Dwell time: 5 min. 6.5 SOLE ATTACHMENT
Sole attachment is the last stage in shoe making. The preparation of shoe bottom and sole is highly critical if a good bond between sole and upper is to be obtained. Due to the variety of upper and sole materials available today the method of preparation chosen will vary considerably. However, the method that is suitable for upper, sole and adhesive system involved is followed. Sole attachment consists of the following subsequence operations: 1. Roughing: The sole is EVA and the heel is roughened by the roughing machine. It is helpful for strong bonding. The breast of heel is slopes according to heel height. These prevent the rocking of shoe. Then brush to remove the dust. 2. Priming:
The sole is primed with chlorinated solution as the sole is rubber material. And the synthetic of platform cover is wiped with MEK. 3. Heel attaching: The adhesive is applied to the heel surface and the area of sole on which the heel is attached. The used adhesive is neoprene. Then allow drying. After drying, they are heat activated at 85째c for 15 seconds. Then position the heel on to the sole and press and at last hammering complete this operation. 4. Cementing: The neoprene adhesive is applied to the sole surface to be attached. 5. Cement Drying: The cemented components are allowed to dry. When the solvent of cement is evaporated, the cement drying is completed. 6. Heat activation: The dried cemented components i. e., sole and platform of lasted upper are heat activated by heat activation machine at 85째c for 15 seconds. When the tackiness of adhesive develops, the activation is then completed. 7. Sole lying: Position the lasted upper on to the sole is sole laying. Toe portion is first positioned then back part and then completes the sole laying by using just hand pressure. 8. Sole pressing: The shoe is then positioned in the sole press machine, clamped in to position and held under pressure for a pre-set time dwell and at a pre-adjusted pressure. Pressure: 30 bars Time: 10 seconds 9. Last slipping/ Delasting: After sole pressing, the shoe is allowed to cool and then the last is slipped from the shoe manually. Care must be taken that the top line or seams are not damaged or broken. The above operations complete the shoe making. Then the later operation, called shoe finishing, is carried out.
6.7. SHOE FINISHING The operations carried out in the shoe finishing consist basically of treating the upper, lining, sock and bottom in radiuses for dispatch to the customer. The addition of trimmings, laces etc plus box making, packing and labeling are also included. The main objective of shoe finishing is to give the shoe better appearance, to repair minor damage caused during manufacture. The treatment given is determined by the upper, bottom materials and the method of construction used. I have carried out the following operations in shoe finishing: 1. Edge trimming & smoothing: The extra material both the edge of sole and heel is trimmed by knife. Then finish it by fine graded abrasive paper, then brush it. 2. Edge inking: The smooth edge is inked with edge coloring ink matching the upper. 3. Removing stitch mark: All stitch marks are removed using thinner by sponge. 4. Removing the extra adhesive The extra adhesive stuck on the shoe is removed by crepe rubber. 5. Upper Polishing The cream is applied to upper and then polished by brush. At last, the shoe is finally polished with mop. The above operations draw the conclusion of shoe making and thus a shoe is obtained. CHAPTER- SEVEN PHYSICAL TESTS ARE CARRIED OUT
7.1. Tensile strength & Elongation at break (SLP-06, IUP-6) Tensile strength is the force (kg) per unit area of cross- section (sq.cm) required to cause a rupture of the test specimen. so, tensile strength of the specimen is calculated using following formula. Breaking load
Tensile strength = Thickness (cm)* width (cm) Result of tensile strength and % Elongation: Sample No.
01
Result for Tensile strength and Elongation at break Perpendicular Parallel Tensile Elongation % Tensile Elongation % strength strength kg/sq.cm kg/sq.cm 300 60 198 70
So tensile strength and % of elongation of sample is not good. The standard value of tensile strength and % of elongation of shoe upper leather is 300kg/cm2 (min) and 80 (max). 7.2 Stitch tear strength test (SLP-7, IUP-8) The double hole stitch tearing can be defined as the load (kg) required to tear the sample of leather between two holes of 2mm. Diameter each and whose centre are 6mm. Apart, expressed on its unit thickness (cm). Tearing load (kg) Stitch tear strength kg/cm = Thickness (cm) Result of stitch tear strength: Sample No.
Result of stitch
01
Perpendicular (kg/cm) 85
Parallel (kg/cm) 80
So stitch tear strength of this leather is good as the standard value is minimum 80 kg/cm. 7.3 Dry and wet rub fastness : The rub fastness of a piece of finished leather was tested to assess the resistance of the finish to color transfer from leather during wear. Principle: A sample of the leather under test was rubbed with a revolutions of the pad (dry or wet) required to produce effect was measured with gray scale. The procedure was following by the method of SLP 5 with SATRA instrument. Table- A results of dry and rub fastness test of leather under investigation (for leather)
Dry rub fastness Sample 32 64 Rev Rev 1 5 5
128 Rev 5
256 Rev 5
512 Rev 5
Wet rub fastness 32 64 128 Rev Rev Rev 5 5 5
256 Rev 4/5
512 Rev 4
This result indicates that the result of the sample is standard. 7.4 Details costing of my product: Standard Costing Sheet for Shoe Style no
: Men’s Sandal
Last no
: W- 988
Type of Shoe
: Sandal
Customer
: B.C.L.T.
Men’s / Ladies Children
: Men’s
Costing Size
:7
Costing for Price Validity
: 100 Pairs : From 26-July- 06 to 26-August- 06
Currency Rate : Material Name
Quantity
Unit
Rate
Cost
Upper Cow finish 2mm
200 sqft
150
30,000/-
Lining cow 0.8mm
200 sqft
40
8,000/-
Socks half/full
100 sqft
30
3,000/-
Foot bed EVA sheet
5 sheet
15
75/-
Needles 134 PCL
4 pcs
5
20/-
Thread 60/3
1 pcs
10
10/-
1 pcs
30
30/-
Interlining Textiles
Thread 40/3 Tapes (2mm fold) Masking Tapes (10/15mm) Lace Elastic Buckles Eyelet
Consumables
(Adhesive
for
20/-
folding, Rubber solution etc) Toe Puff Counter Stiffener Insole
2 Sheet
100
200/-
Mid Sole
3 Sheet
100
300/-
Out sole
3 Sheet
150
450/-
Heel Tack
20/-
Trims Fastener (Velcro) Label
20/-
Shoe Box
200/-
Shoe Carton Finishing
2 pcs Materials
50
100/-
(Wax,
20/-
Lacquer etc) Others / Hiden cost Total Materials
100/42565/-
Lobour Cutting
50/-
Closing
50/-
Lasting
50/-
Finishing (Shoe room)
20/-
Total Labour
180/-
Direct Expenses Dies Last
1000/-
Punches Others Tools
20/-
Miscellanies
20/-
Reserve
20/-
Prime Cost (Materials + Labour + Direct Expenses)
43,805/-
Production Over Head
Machine Depreciation cost
500/-
Samples
1000/-
Rejects & Repairs
500/-
Govt. tax
500/-
Light
1000/-
Fuel
500/-
Power
100/-
Cost of Design
500/-
Cost of Pattern Making
100/-
Total Production O/H Administration Over head
4,700/-
Salaries and Wages of office
1000/-
staff & Management On cost Social Cost
500/-
Office costs for Telephone
500/-
stationary & office equipment Finance (Bank Interest)
500/-
Rent Total Administration O/H
2,500/-
Marketing and distribution O/H Salaries & wages
3,000/-
Carriage
1,000/-
Stock Holding
500/-
Travel Expenses
200/-
Advertising
1000/-
Total Marketing and distribution O/H
5,700/-
Total Ex-factory
108005/-
Discount given (2%)
876.1/-
Profit Margin (5%)
2190.25/-
Total (100 Pairs)
111071.35/-
Standard Selling Price per Pair
1110/-
Advantage & disadvantage of the construction:
Advantage: 1. Sandal are flexible 2. Comfortable 3. Attractive 4. Light Disadvantage: 1. Break 2. Not water proof 3. High labour cost 4. Shape retention is poor Limitation : There are some quality problems in my product because of lack ness the skill of operating swing machine. I have tried to carry on the consumption process in a scientific way but I could not. Quality sole unit sole are not available Conclusion: The construction is the vital factor for shoe/ sandal making .The veldchoen construction added a new fashionable look of the modern foot wear making .It is possible to make export oriented quality footwear by this construction .To make sandal by this construction is quite easy than any other construction. Although there are some limitations but I had tried to minimize those problems. The footwear sector has undergo tremendous changes over the past few years in Bangladesh. The relative labour cost nature of foot wear industry makes Bangladesh a competitive advantage; good port facilities make the country an attractive destination. No douth this type of construction will effect positively in foot wear fashion as well as foot wear industries in Bangladesh. References
1. Text Book of Foot wear Manufacture ( 3rd Edition) By J. H. Thornton 2. Introduction to the Modern Footwear Technology (1st Edition) By B. Ven. Katappalah 3. Manual of Shoe Making (1st Edition) Produced by the Training Department Clarks Limited 4. Text Book of Footwear Materials By J. H. Thornton 5. The Pattern Cutters Hand Book Michael H. Sharp 6. Shoe Designing - A Manual
Leather Technology Mission, Central Leather Research Institute 7. Lasting Hand Outs (Volume 1 & 2) 8. An Introduction to the Principles of Physical Testing of Leather By S. S. Datta 9. Testing & Quality Assessment of Footwear & Footwear Materials By B. Ven. Katappalah