Light it up

Author Amy Rosen (far right) and family celebrate Hanukkah.

decidedly low-key affair consisting mostly of kibitzing with second cousins over latkes in condo party rooms, Hanukkah might be less overtly celebratory than Christmas, but it’s no less joyous. It is, however, a bit less predictable: Because the Jewish calendar is lunisolar, Hanukkah sometimes falls close to Christmas, and sometimes doesn’t. (This year it does not.) Happy 5782, y’all!

The celebration of Hanukkah commemorates the rededication of the temple in Jerusalem, where, in ancient times, the Jews rose up against their Syrian Greek oppressors in the Maccabean Revolt. The temple was destroyed and had to be repaired in time for the Sabbath, but there was only a small amount of oil to keep the lanterns burning—just enough to last one night. The miracle of Hanukkah—the Festival of Lights—is that the oil burned for a full eight days, which is why we light the menorah. Meanwhile, because of the symbolism of the magical oil, we get to eat delicious fried food for eight days straight.

It’s not Hanukkah without latkes. Case closed. But what is up for discussion is whether you prefer the potatoes shredded in a food processor and dropped into hot oil until crispyedged, or hand-grated and fried in the oil until lacy and crunchy throughout. (I’m going for grated every time.) Latkes are traditionally served with applesauce and sour cream, but here I propose a herbaceous green goddess sauce, a play on the sour cream that provides a lot more interest and oomph. It works well with the latkes—and also with everything else on the plate.

So what else is on the plate? If there’s one thing you should know about Jews and food, it’s that we never say no to a nice piece of fish. And this salmon is a nice piece of fish! Instead of the usual Hanukkah spread of bagels, lox and cream cheese, impress the entire family and roast a whole side of salmon seasoned with za’atar. They’ll plotz for it.

While the fish is in the oven, you can quick-pickle red onions, make sure your 20-cup coffee percolator is working and toss together some herbs to top the salmon. Suddenly, you’ve got a Hanukkah main course fit for the ages. Plus, you’ll make a nice grainy salad full of roasted root vegetables, pomegranate and dill. (Note: Certain cousins may be disappointed by the absence of bagels. You should probably get some bagels.)

For dessert, save the chocolate gelt for playing dreidel. Instead, core little McIntosh apples, sprinkle them with sugar and spice, and wrap them in pastry. While they’re turning puffed and golden, you’ll make a caramel sauce out of Manischewitz, the sweet sacramental wine that tastes like nothing short of another Hanukkah miracle.

I say let the others enjoy their bedazzled trees, fat bronzed turkeys and elaborate gifts. This Hanukkah, the Jews will have crispy latkes, a perfectly seasoned roasted fish, sacramental caramel—and perhaps a new pair of tube socks. Failing that, we’ve always got Chinese food for Christmas.

Latkes with Green Goddess Sauce

Serves 6 to 8 Prep 30 min; total 1 hr Green Goddess Sauce 1 cup mayonnaise 1 cup sour cream 1 small clamshell pkg tarragon, leaves removed from stems 1 small clamshell pkg chives, coarsely chopped 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 tsp anchovy paste or 1 anchovy, finely chopped 1 lemon, juiced

Latkes 8 russet potatoes, scrubbed 2 small onions 3 large eggs, beaten 1/3 cup all-purpose flour Vegetable oil, for frying

1. Sauce: Combine mayo, sour cream, tarragon, chives, garlic, anchovy and lemon juice in a blender. Blend until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Blend again. Pour into a serving bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. 2. Latkes: Coarsely grate potatoes (no need to peel them) onto a clean tea towel. Squeeze out as much liquid as possible by twisting towel (potato shreds should be as dry as possible). Transfer potatoes to a large bowl and grate onions overtop. Stir in eggs and flour until combined. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Pour enough oil into a large cast iron pan (or any heavy-bottomed pan) until it reaches ½ in. up the side. Set over medium. When oil is hot, add heaping tablespoonfuls of latke mixture, frying 4 or 5 at a time, until deeply golden-brown, about 3 min per side. Transfer to a paper- towel-lined plate. Repeat with remaining latke mixture, adding more oil as needed. 4. Serve latkes hot, topped

with Green Goddess Sauce. Sprinkle with more chopped herbs, if desired. Kitchen tip Any extra sauce can be refrigerated in a sealed container for up to 5 days. It’s also great with salmon or as a salad dressing. Make-ahead tip Sauce and latkes can be made up to 1 day ahead. Refrigerate, and then reheat latkes, in a 200F oven until hot, when guests arrive.

Za’atar-Roasted Salmon with Herbs and Pickled Onions

Serves 6 to 8 Prep 20 min; total 45 min Pickled Onions ½ cup red wine vinegar ¼ cup granulated sugar 1/2 tsp sea salt ½ red onion, thinly sliced

Salmon 1 whole side skin-on salmon (about 1.5 kg) 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp za’atar spice blend ½ tsp sea salt

Herb Topping ½ cup chopped parsley ½ cup basil leaves, chopped 2 tbsp chopped chives 2 tbsp drained capers 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp thyme leaves

1. Onions: Combine vinegar, sugar, ¼ cup water and salt in a small saucepan set over high. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add onion. Set aside and let cool for 1 hr. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. 2. Salmon: Position rack in centre of oven; preheat to 450F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment or foil. 3. Place salmon, skin-side down, on prepared sheet. Rub with 1 tbsp oil and sprinkle with za’atar and salt. Season with pepper. 4. Roast salmon until just opaque in the centre, about 20 min. Let cool slightly. 5. Topping: Combine half of the pickled onions with parsley, basil, chives, capers, 1 tbsp oil and thyme in a medium bowl. 6. Place salmon on a serving platter and artfully top with herb mixture. Serve warm or at room temperature, with remaining onions alongside, if desired.

Pearl Barley Salad with Roasted Root Vegetables

Serves 6 to 8 Prep 15 min; total 1 hr 1 900-mL carton vegetable broth 2 cups pearl barley, rinsed and drained 1 large sweet potato, peeled 2 parsnips, peeled 2 carrots, peeled ½ small red onion, thinly sliced into half moons 3 tbsp olive oil, divided 2 lemons, juiced 2 tsp honey 1 cup chopped dill ½ cup pomegranate seeds ½ cup sliced almonds, toasted

1. Position rack in centre of oven and preheat to 425F. 2. Combine broth and barley in a medium saucepan set over high. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, until barley is tender and liquid is absorbed, 30 to 35 min. 3. Meanwhile, cut sweet potato, parsnips and carrots into equal, bite-sized pieces. Toss vegetables and onion with 1 tbsp oil on a baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper. Roast, stirring halfway through, until lightly browned and fork-tender, about 20 min. 4. Fluff cooked barley with a fork, and then transfer to a large serving bowl. Set barley Za’atar-Roasted Salmon with Herbs and Pickled Onions

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and roasted vegetables aside and let cool slightly. 4. Whisk remaining 2 tbsp oil, lemon juice and honey in a small bowl. Drizzle over barley. Add roasted vegetables, dill and pomegranate seeds. Toss to combine. Sprinkle with almonds. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Apple Dumplings with Manischewitz Caramel Sauce

Serves 6 to 8 Prep 20 min; total 1 hr Apple Dumplings 6 small McIntosh apples ½ lemon, juiced 2 tbsp packed dark brown sugar 1 tbsp butter, melted 1 tsp cinnamon ⅛ tsp salt 1 450-g pkg puff pastry sheets (2 sheets), thawed 1 large egg, beaten

Caramel Sauce 1 cup granulated sugar 6 tbsp butter ½ cup 35% cream, at room temperature 3 tbsp Manischewitz Concord grape wine ⅛ tsp salt

1. Position rack in centre of oven and preheat to 375F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment. 2. Core apples and retain ¼-in. piece from the bottom of each core. Insert into cores to plug bottoms of apples. (This will keep filling from leaking.) 3. Stir lemon juice with brown

Hanukkah gelt: dessert that doubles as decor.

sugar, 1 tbsp butter, cinnamon and ⅛ tsp salt in a small bowl. 4. Cut each puff pastry sheet into 4 equal squares. (You will have 8, but you’ll only need 6. Save remaining pieces for another use.) Arrange 6 squares, 2 in. apart, on prepared sheet. 5. Place 1 apple in centre of each square. Drizzle lemon mixture into hollows of apples. Gently gather corners of pastry up sides of apples, twisting to secure at the top as artfully as you can. Brush pastry all over with egg wash. 6. Bake until pastry is puffed and golden all over, 20 to 25 min. (Don’t bake for longer than 25 min; otherwise, apples may collapse inside pastry.) Set aside. 7. Sauce: Place granulated sugar in a medium saucepan set over medium. Cook, without stirring, for 2 min. Then start stirring with a wooden spoon until sugar clumps melt and liquid is amber-coloured, about 6 min. 8. Add 6 tbsp butter and carefully stir (it will bubble up). Stir until combined, about 1 min, and then let it bubble, without stirring, for 1 min more. (If sauce splits, whisk until it comes back together.) 9. Slowly stream in room temperature cream (it will bubble up) and stir for 1 min. Then boil, without stirring, for 1 min. Stir in Manischewitz and ⅛ tsp salt and cook for 1 min. Remove from heat and let cool for 10 minutes. Caramel sauce will thicken as it cools. 9. Serve dumplings with a generous pour of the cooled but still warm Manischewitz caramel sauce.

What is Manischewitz?

This kosher sacramental wine is used to celebrate the Sabbath and other Jewish holidays. It’s widely available, so it has become the go-to kosher sweet wine.

W H AT A PA IR

We asked wine pro Vidal Wu to play matchmaker for this feast. Here’s what he recommends

Terra Vega Sauvignon Blanc

This clean, crisp and vegan Chilean wine is mevushal-certified and an easy (and dry!) crowd-pleaser at an incredible value. Grassy, green apples and wet rocks leap from the glass, followed by citrus zest, refreshing acidity and a savourymeets-salty finish.

Tzafona C abernet Sauvignon

Tzafona means “northward,” and this herbaceous, surprisingly light red—from one of the first Ontario wineries to produce kosher wine—is structured, elegant and perfectly food-friendly. Think blackberries and dark cherries with Italian green herbs and spicy white pepper.