BASICS

from Food & Drink - Summer 2017

TRENDSPOTTING

CLASSIC SOUTHERN BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN

recipe on page 143

GU I D E T O FRIED CHICKEN

With entire restaurants now devoted to trendy fried chicken, we ofer up tips for success when making your own at home—plus a classic recipe that’ll stand out at any summer picnic.

BY JENNIFER MacKENZIE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

THERE MAY BE as many theories on making the perfect fried chicken as there are restaurants serving up the savoury, golden morsels of crunchy decadence these days. Once a dish only to be found on restaurant menus in the Deep South and fast food chains, fried chicken is making an appearance in gastro pubs, casual restaurants and diners, and the occasional white-tablecloth establishment in a myriad favours and styles. With some whys and hows, detailed instructions and tips from pros, you, too, can up your fried chicken game at home and put your skills to the test with our Classic Southern Buttermilk Fried Chicken recipe.

MOISTEN THE CHICKEN

Tender, juicy meat with layers of seasoning is imperative to fabulous fried chicken. Along with using good-quality chicken, here’s how to achieve it.

BRINING Boldly seasoned salt-sugar liquid brine infuses chicken with moisture and favour. Immerse chicken pieces; refrigerate for 18 to 24 hours. Drain, rinse and pat chicken dry.

MARINATING Using buttermilk as a marinade after, or instead of, brining adds tang and tenderizes. Use it plain, or add heat and spices. Immerse and refrigerate for 8 to 24 hours.

SALT-RUB A dry salt and spice rub generously coating the chicken is another option; cover and refrigerate for about 24 hours, then wet dip and coat.

SPIRITS FOR CRISPINESS Add a splash of vodka or other spirit to marinade or wet dip for extra crispiness.

COAT THE CHICKEN

Nut-brown, shatteringly crispy coating is the fnal goal. There are many theories on how to achieve that. Typically the chicken is dipped in wet ingredients (the wet dip), then in a dry coating. Most often chicken is coated raw but some cooks bake or sous vide the chicken before coating to shorten frying time.

Buttermilk marinade can function as your wet dip, too; drain of excess and go straight to the dry coating. Some recipes include egg, which thickens the wet dip and encourages more dry coating to cling, while others include beer to add another dimension of favour and crispiness.

Flour is most typical for dry coating. Add crushed cereal, bread crumbs or cornmeal to vary crunchiness. Adding cornstarch and/or baking powder provides delicate crispiness. To get a craggy, extra-crunchy texture, add a couple of spoons of wet dip to the dry coating mixture.

Add just a few chicken pieces at a time to dry coating for even coverage. Toss dipped chicken with dry coating in a paper or plastic bag or toss in a large bowl and hand-pat it on. Place coated pieces on a rack set over a baking sheet and let stand 30 minutes to help the coating adhere.

SAFETY TIPS When frying, be attentive! Never leave hot oil unattended; have a large metal lid or baking sheet at hand and a large container of baking soda to smother any fre; an oil-rated fre extinguisher should be close by.

It’s never safe to par cook poultry or meat, then hold. To make ahead, cook chicken thoroughly, chill it quickly, then reheat before serving.

fry the chicken

Perfecting the frying step is crucial to elevating your fried chicken to star status. OIL Canola oil and peanut oil are optimal for frying due to their neutral favour and high smoke point, which makes them stable. Fresh, clean oil gives the best texture and favour, and prevents greasy chicken. Cooled oil can be strained through cheesecloth, stored and re-used but the quality decreases with each use. TEMPERATURE Monitor constantly and adjust the heat as necessary to maintain target temperature. It’s important to get the oil hotter to start as the chicken will cool it down quickly when added. As you cook the subsequent batches, the pan will hold the heat better so you can heat the oil to a slightly lower temperature in between each batch. Too hot and the outside will burn; too cool causes greasy, tough chicken. Cook just 2 or 3 pieces at a time. Two accurate thermometers are essential: one to monitor oil, one to check internal temperature of the chicken. FRYING EQUIPMENT Heavy gauge cookware is key: a 12-inch (30-cm) or larger cast-iron skillet for shallow frying, or a deep, heavy Dutch oven for deep-frying. When flling with oil, leave room for the chicken and for bubbling; don’t let oil spill over. An electric deep-fryer or wok regulates temperature well. POST-FRYING Place fried chicken on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. If it’s not cooked through when the crust is brown and crisp, bake in the oven on the rack to fnish the cooking. Let cool for 10 minutes.

TIPS FROM THE PRO

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Head Chef BECKY HOOD of 39 Carden Street restaurant in Guelph and Street Food Guelph ° food truck: Use a higher heat 350°F ° (180°C) to fry, then an oven bake to cook through, and a quick second fry to crisp it up. BRAD WATT, Chef and Owner of Rare in Peterborough: Start with good chicken, soak in brine loaded with onions and seasonings then in plain buttermilk, each for 24 hours, to get moisture and flavour into the meat. MATT BASILE, Chef and Owner of Fidel Gastro’s + Bar Lisa Marie in Toronto: Brine in dill pickle liquid for a punch of flavour. Squeeze the flour coating onto chicken pieces with your hands to pack it on for maximum crunch; tossing doesn’t do it. HOME EC TIPS: Cover the stove and counters surrounding your frying pan with large sheets of foil to contain splatter. Use a vinegar-water solution to wipe surfaces after frying.

SERVING SUGGESTIONS AND FINISHING SAUCES

Just when you thought fried chicken was decadent enough, there are the fnishing sauces and ideal accompaniments!

Baked mac and cheese, pasta salad and coleslaw are traditional sides, or from our recipe archives (at foodanddrink.ca), a refreshing salad such as Napa Cabbage Slaw; Tomato, Watermelon & Feta Salad; Black Bean, Grilled Corn and Watermelon Salad or Spinach & Orzo Salad. Or you can go full out and make Cheddar Herb Wafes or Simple Buttermilk Wafes (omit the cinnamon) to complete the feast.

NASHVILLE HOT CHICKEN Melt 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) butter and stir in 1 tbsp (15 mL) cayenne (or more for extra-fery), 1 tsp (5 mL) garlic powder and 1⁄2 tsp (2 mL) salt. Baste fried chicken just before serving; serve on a slice of white bread with tangy pickles.

KOREAN FRIED CHICKEN Combine 4 cloves minced garlic, 1 tbsp (15 mL) grated ginger, 1⁄3 cup (75 mL) gochujang chili paste, 3 tbsp (45 mL) each sugar, soy sauce and rice vinegar and 1 tbsp (15 mL) sesame oil; toss with hot fried chicken.