23 minute read
The Workbook
T HE WORKBOOK
(½ cup), plus 1 tomatillo, cut into paper-thin rounds 16 Malabar-spinach buds 24 papalo leaves 2 tablespoons fresh bush-basil leaves, or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian basil 1 teaspoon grated lime zest, plus 2 tablespoons fresh juice
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Flaky sea salt, such as Jacobsen (available at jacobsensalt.com), for serving
Divide burrata evenly among 8 small glasses or bowls; drizzle each generously with oil. Top evenly with diced tomatillos, spinach buds, papalo, and basil. Sprinkle with zest, juice, and salt. Add tomatillo rounds, pressing them against sides of glasses to adhere. Serve.
GRILLED HERITAGE PORK WITH PLUMS, FARRO VERDE, AND SUMMER HERBS
Active Time: 55 min. Total Time: 2 hr. 55 min., plus marinating Serves: 8 to 10
Farro verde is harvested early, when still green, then roasted for extra nuttiness and flavor. Regular farro can be substituted. Grilling the bone-in loin with the fat cap still intact ensures juicy, flavorful meat that won’t dry out on the grill.
PORK
1 6-bone section of a bone-in pork loin (5 to 6 pounds), preferably with fat cap attached
Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper
FARRO
3 cups farro verde 2½ cups vegetable or chicken broth, preferably homemade 1 fresh bay leaf
Kosher salt
SALSA VERDE
3 tablespoons chopped shallot (from 1 large shallot) 1 tablespoon chopped garlic (from 3 cloves)
Kosher salt 2 cups packed flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves 1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves
1 fresh bay leaf, finely chopped 2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar 8 plums, such as Flavor Grenade,
Dapple Dandy, Green Gage,
Santa Rosa, Flavor King,
Catalina, or Elephant Heart, halved, pitted, and cut into wedges, for serving
Thyme, oregano, and opal basil sprigs (optional), for serving
1. Pork: Season pork all over with 3 tablespoons salt and 1 tablespoon pepper. Cover with plastic and refrigerate at least 8 hours and up to 1 day. 2. Remove pork from refrigerator, unwrap, and pat dry 1 hour before grilling. Open grill vents and remove main grate. Fill a chimney with natural lump hardwood charcoal; place on small lower grate. Ignite; let burn until top layer is turning ash gray, about 20 minutes. Pour coals onto one side of grate. Top with main grate. Cover grill with vents open; preheat 5 minutes to 350°. Place pork on main grate, opposite coals (indirect heat), fat-cap-side up and bones facing away from coals. Cover and cook, adding a handful of fresh charcoal to grill every 20 minutes to maintain temperature, until a thermometer inserted into center of pork nearest (but not touching) bone registers 125°, about 1 hour. Move pork to direct heat; cook, turning occasionally, until browned all over and thermometer registers 138°, 5 to 10 minutes more. Remove pork from grill; let stand at least 20 minutes and up to 1 hour before carving. 3. Farro: Combine farro, broth, 2 cups water, bay leaf, and 2 teaspoons salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium, partially cover, and simmer until farro is tender and liquid has evaporated, 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat; let stand, covered, 5 minutes (drain off any excess liquid, if necessary). 4. Salsa verde: Combine shallot, garlic, and 1 teaspoon salt in the bowl of a food processor; process to a paste. Add parsley and 3 tablespoons oil; continue processing to a fine paste. Add thyme, oregano, and bay leaf; pulse just until combined. Stir in remaining 3 tablespoons oil. If not serving right away, cover surface of salsa verde with plastic up to 2 hours. Stir in vinegar just before serving. 5. Slice loin from rack of pork; cut rack into ribs, then thinly slice loin. Remove bay leaf from farro and transfer to a serving platter. Serve sliced pork and ribs over farro, with plums, herb sprigs, and salsa verde.
STRAWBERRY- AND-TARRAGON SHRUB
Active Time: 40 min. Total Time: 2 hr. 40 min., plus infusing Makes: 2½ cups shrub base (enough for about 20 servings) You can make a shrub into a low- alcohol cocktail called a shim by adding a splash of sparkling wine, vermouth, or your favorite aperitif. 1 pound strawberries, hulled and halved (about 3 cups), plus more for serving (optional) 1½ cups sugar 8 sprigs tarragon, plus more for serving (optional) 1½ cups red-wine vinegar
Chilled sparkling water, for serving
1. In a large nonreactive pot (such as stainless steel), combine berries, sugar, and tarragon. Let stand 1 hour, stirring a few times. Cook over medium heat until warm to the touch, about 5 minutes. Add vinegar and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until mixture comes to a bare simmer (do not let boil). Remove from heat; let stand at room temperature, uncovered, 24 hours. Remove and discard tarragon. Strain shrub base; reserve pickled berries (which can be stored in an airtight container in refrigerator up to 1 week) for another use. Transfer shrub base to another airtight container; refrigerate until cold, at least 1 hour and up to 1 month. 2. Fill glasses halfway with ice. Top with 1 part shrub base and 4 to 5 parts sparkling water. Stir once; garnish with more tarragon and fruit. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS
Peach and Bay Laurel: For shrub base, use 1 pound yellow peaches, cut into ½-inch wedges (about 3 cups); 1½ cups sugar; 8 fresh bay leaves; and 1½ cups champagne vinegar. Blackberry and Sage: For shrub base, use 1 pound blackberries (about 3 cups); 1½ cups sugar; 10 fresh sage leaves; ¾ cup red-wine vinegar; and ¾ cup sherry vinegar.
CHARRED-CUCUMBER- AND-RADISH SALAD WITH YOGURT
Active/Total Time: 40 min. Serves: 8
For the best flavor, cook the cucumbers and radishes directly in the hot embers or coals of a wood-burning fireplace or in a grill with natural hardwood lump charcoal. If you’re using a gas grill, char them on the hottest part, preheated to the highest setting and covered. The edible flowers and leaves are available at chefsgarden.com. 8 mini cucumbers, such as
Persian, Armenian, serpent, or burpless, 2 peeled lengthwise into thin strips, 6 left whole 1 bunch golf ball–size radishes, such as watermelon (about 10) 2 cups Greek yogurt or labneh 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Flaky sea salt, such as
Jacobsen (available at jacobsensalt.com)
1 tablespoon nigella seeds, toasted and ground 2 cups watercress, thicker tough stems removed 1 cup nasturtium leaves (optional) 1 cup Tangerine Gem marigold leaves (optional)
Zest and juice of 2 lemons
Edible flowers, such as sweet alyssum, cucumber flower blossoms, Tangerine Gem marigolds, mint flowers, and borage flower blossoms (optional)
1. Preheat a charcoal grill, or prepare a fire in a fireplace or fire pit. When the flames subside and the coals or wood turn to red embers, place whole cucumbers and radishes directly on embers and cook, turning a few times, until blackened all over, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove; let cool completely, about 20 minutes. 2. Stir together yogurt, oil, and ¾ teaspoon salt. Dollop ¼ cup yogurt mixture along one side of each plate. Spread into a halfmoon with the back of a spoon; sprinkle with nigella seeds. Toss together watercress, nasturtium leaves, marigold leaves, and cucumber strips; divide evenly among plates, overlapping slightly with yogurt. Cut charred cucumbers on the bias into 1-inch pieces, and quarter radishes lengthwise; divide evenly among plates. Sprinkle with lemon zest; drizzle with juice and oil. Season with salt and garnish with flowers; serve.
ROSE-GERANIUM-ANDCARDAMOM ICE CREAM
Active Time: 20 min. Total Time: 3 hr., plus freezing Serves: 8
3 cups heavy cream 1½ cups whole milk ¾ cup rose-geranium leaves (½ ounce) ⅓ cup green cardamom pods 6 large egg yolks ¾ cup sugar ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Roasted Peaches (recipe follows), for serving
Almond Cookies (recipe follows), for serving
1. Combine cream, milk, geranium leaves, and cardamom pods in a saucepan; cook over
Recipes
medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until mixture is scalding hot (do not let simmer), about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. In a large heatproof bowl, whisk yolks with sugar and salt until smooth and pale. Whisking constantly, ladle half of cream mixture into yolk mixture, a little at a time, until combined. Whisk yolk-and-cream mixture back into saucepan with remaining cream mixture. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon and a thermometer registers 180°, 5 to 7 minutes. 2. Pour custard through a medium-mesh sieve into a bowl set in an ice-water bath. Let cool
® Flavor Infusions Rice adds to the
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3. Churn custard in an ice cream maker (following manufacturer’s instructions) until it has texture of soft-serve ice cream. Freeze in an airtight container until firm, at least 4 hours and up to 1 month. If ice cream is frozen solid, transfer to refrigerator to let soften slightly before serving, about 20 minutes. Serve, with peaches and cookies.
ROASTED PEACHES
Active Time: 10 min. Total Time: 1 hr. 10 min. Serves: 8
6 ripe but firm peaches (about 2¼ pounds), halved, pitted, and cut into 1-inch wedges (about 6 cups) 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
1. Preheat oven to 225°. In a bowl, gently toss peaches with lime juice and oil. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Spread in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment. Place confectioners’ sugar in a fine-mesh sieve and dust peaches evenly. 2. Bake until peaches darken and begin to curl, about 1 hour. Let cool completely; serve.
ALMOND COOKIES
Active Time: 15 min. Total Time: 1 hr. Makes: 24
The almond flour can be replaced with skin-on whole almonds that have been finely ground in a food processor. 1¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour ½ cup almond flour ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 stick unsalted butter, room temperature ½ cup confectioners’ sugar 1 large egg, room temperature ½ teaspoon pure almond extract ¾ teaspoon pure vanilla extract 24 whole almonds
Fine sanding sugar, for sprinkling
1. Preheat oven to 350°, with racks in upper and lower thirds. Whisk together both flours and salt. Beat butter with confectioners’ sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add egg and both extracts; beat until combined (mixture may appear curdled). Reduce speed to low; beat in flour mixture just to combine. Drop rounded tablespoons of dough onto parchment-lined baking sheets, leaving 1 inch between each cookie. Lightly press 1 almond into center of each; generously sprinkle tops with sanding sugar. 2. Bake, rotating sheets and rack positions halfway through, until cookies are set and golden on bottoms, 22 to 25 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes on sheets; transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely, about 30 minutes. Cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 1 week.
The Time Is Ripe
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BOURBON-AND-BROWNSUGAR CAKE WITH BERRIES
Active Time: 20 min. Total Time: 2 hr. 40 min. Serves: 8 to 10
This cake is quite fragile when warm; turn it out carefully. 1 stick unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pan 1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1¾ teaspoons baking powder ¾ teaspoon kosher salt ⅓ cup granulated sugar ⅔ cup packed light-brown sugar 2 large eggs, room temperature 4 teaspoons bourbon, such as Maker’s Mark ⅔ cup whole milk, room temperature 1 cup raspberries 1 cup blueberries
Fine sanding sugar, for sprinkling
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Butter a 9-by-2-inch round cake pan. Line with parchment; butter parchment. Whisk together flour, baking powder and salt. 2. Beat butter with granulated and brown sugars on mediumhigh speed until light and creamy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating to combine after each addition. Beat in bourbon. Add flour mixture in three batches, alternating with milk and beginning and ending with flour; beat un- til combined. Transfer batter to prepared pan. Sprinkle top with berries, pressing some down into batter. Sprinkle generously with sanding sugar. Bake until edges begin to pull away from pan and top springs back when lightly touched, 50 minutes to 1 hour. 3. Let cool in pan 20 minutes. Turn out onto a wire rack; remove parchment. Turn cake top-side up; let cool completely, about 1 hour.
VARIATIONS
Apricot: Replace bourbon with kirsch. In place of berries, use 12 ounces apricots (4 large or 6 small), sliced ½ inch thick (2 cups); toss with 2 tablespoons granulated sugar. Peach or Nectarine: Replace bourbon with dark rum. In place of berries, use 12 ounces peaches or nectarines (about 3), sliced ½ inch thick (2 cups). Plum: Replace bourbon with 1½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract. In place of berries, use 12 ounces Italian prune plums (3 to 4), sliced ½ inch thick (1½ cups); toss with 1 tablespoon granulated sugar. Cherry: In place of berries, use 1 pound sour cherries, pitted (2 cups); toss with 2 tablespoons granulated sugar.
APRICOT-AND-STRAWBERRY GALETTE
Active Time: 30 min. Total Time: 2 hr. 15 min. Serves: 8
This is best eaten the day it's made, but can be stored, lightly tented with foil, for up to one day at room temperature.
FRANGIPANE
⅓ cup blanched hazelnuts ¼ cup sugar 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour 1 large egg yolk (white reserved for brushing crust) 1 tablespoon hazelnut liqueur, such as Frangelico ½ teaspoon kosher salt
FRUIT
5 teaspoons unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 disk Pâte Brisée (recipe follows) 12 ounces apricots, halved if small, or cut into ½-inch wedges (about 2 cups) 4 ounces strawberries, cut into ¼-inch slices (¾ cup) ⅓ cup sugar 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1 large egg white (reserved from frangipane), beaten
1. Frangipane: Preheat oven to 375°. Toast hazelnuts on a baking sheet, stirring once, until deep golden brown, about 12 minutes. Let cool completely, about 15 minutes; then grind in a food processor until fine. Add sugar, butter, flour, egg yolk, liqueur,
and salt; process to combine. Frangipane can be made in advance and stored in an airtight container in refrigerator up to 1 day; return to room temperature before using. 2. Fruit: On lightly floured parchment, roll dough into a 12-by- 10-inch rectangle, about ⅛ inch thick. Transfer on parchment to a rimmed baking sheet. Spread frangipane evenly over dough, leaving a 2-inch border. Stir together apricots, strawberries, sugar, flour, lemon juice, and salt. Arrange fruit mixture in a single layer over frangipane. Fold dough over fruit, leaving center uncovered. Brush crust with egg white, brushing under folds to help seal. 3. Bake until golden brown and bubbling in center, 50 minutes to 1 hour. Slide galette off of pan onto a wire rack. Serve slightly warm or room temperature.
VARIATIONS
Peach or Nectarine: For fruit mixture, stir together 1 pound peaches or nectarines (about 4), cut into ½-inch wedges (2¾ cups); ¼ cup sugar; 2 tablespoons flour; 2 teaspoons lemon juice; and ¼ teaspoon salt. Plum-Blueberry: For fruit mixture, stir together 12 ounces plums, cut into ½ inch wedges (1¾ cups); 4 ounces (¾ cup) blueberries; ½ cup sugar; 3 tablespoons flour; 2 teaspoons lemon juice; and ¼ teaspoon salt. Mixed Berry: For frangipane, replace hazelnuts with almonds, and hazelnut liqueur with rum. For fruit mixture, stir together 12 ounces (2½ cups) berries (blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, or a mix), ⅓ cup sugar, 2 tablespoons flour, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cherry: For frangipane, replace hazelnuts with almonds, and hazelnut liqueur with rum. For fruit mixture, stir together 1 pound fresh or thawed frozen sour cherries, pitted (2¾ cups); ½ cup sugar; 2 tablespoons flour; 1 teaspoon lemon juice; and ¼ teaspoon salt.
PÂTE BRISÉE
Active Time: 10 min. Total Time: 1 hr. 10 min. Makes: 2 disks
To add a subtle nuttiness to this dough that pairs well with peaches and apricots, replace ½ cup of the flour in the crust with buckwheat flour. Or if pairing with apricots or plums, try replacing ½ cup of the flour with ¾ cup toasted ground hazelnuts. The extra disk of dough can be frozen, wrapped in plastic, for up to 1 month. 2½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons sugar 2 sticks cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes ⅓ to ½ cup ice water
Pulse flour, salt, and sugar in a food processor until combined. Add butter; pulse until mixture resembles coarse crumbs with some pea-size pieces remaining. Drizzle with ⅓ cup ice water and pulse until mixture holds together when pressed between fingertips. Add additional water if needed; do not overprocess. Transfer mixture to a piece of plastic wrap. Divide in two; knead once or twice. Form into two rectangular disks and wrap each in plastic. Refrigerate at least 1 hour and up to overnight.
PEACH-AND-RASPBERRY OAT COBBLER
Active Time: 25 min. Total Time: 3 hr. 40 min. Serves: 8
FILLING
2½ pounds peaches, cut into ½-inch wedges (8 cups) 1¼ cups (6 ounces) raspberries ¾ cup granulated sugar 3 tablespoons cornstarch 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
TOPPING
1½ cups unbleached all- purpose flour ¼ cup granulated sugar 1¾ teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt 6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces ¼ cup rolled oats, plus more for sprinkling ¾ cup cold heavy cream, plus more for brushing and serving (optional)
Fine sanding sugar, for sprinkling
1. Filling: Preheat oven to 375°. Stir together peaches, raspberries, granulated sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice, and salt. Transfer to a 2½-quart baking dish. 2. Topping: Whisk together flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add butter; using your fingers, work it into dry ingredients until largest pieces are the size of small peas. Add oats and cream; stir with a fork until combined and a soft, sticky dough forms. Use two spoons to divide into 9 pieces, distributing evenly over fruit in baking dish. Brush tops with cream. Sprinkle with more oats, then sanding sugar. 3. Bake until bubbling in center and biscuits are golden brown, 1 hour to 1 hour, 15 minutes (if browning too quickly, tent with foil after about 45 minutes). Let cool at least 2 hours before serving, topped with more cream.
VARIATIONS
Apricot-Strawberry: In step 1, stir together 2¼ pounds apricots, cut into ½-inch wedges (6 cups); 6 ounces strawberries, coarsely chopped (1 cup); 1 cup sugar; 2 tablespoons cornstarch; 1 teaspoon lemon juice; and ¼ teaspoon salt. In step 3, bake 1 hour. Cherry: In step 1, stir together 2 pounds sour cherries, pitted (5 cups); ¾ cup sugar; 2 tablespoons cornstarch; 1 teaspoon lemon juice; and ¼ teaspoon salt.
Recipes
Plum-Nectarine: In step 1, stir together 2 pounds plums (preferably Italian prune; about 9 small), cut into ½-inch wedges (5¼ cups); 1 pound nectarines (about 3), cut into ½-inch wedges (2½ cups); ¾ to 1 cup sugar (depending on sweetness of plums); 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon cornstarch; 1 teaspoon lemon juice; and ¼ teaspoon salt. Mixed Berry: In step 1, stir together 5 cups mixed raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries; ¾ cup sugar; 2 tablespoons cornstarch; 2 teaspoons lemon juice; and ¼ teaspoon salt.
CHERRY-AND-CREAMCHEESE HAND PIES
Active Time: 45 min. Total Time: 1 hr. 40 min. Makes: 8
10 ounces sour cherries, pitted and halved (1¾ cups) 6 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon plus 4 teaspoons unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 2 pinches kosher salt ¼ teaspoon finely grated lime zest, plus ¾ teaspoon fresh juice 4 ounces cream cheese, room temperature 1 large egg yolk, plus 1 large egg, beaten 3 tablespoons sweetened shredded coconut
1 pound all-butter puff pastry, thawed if frozen
1. Preheat oven to 400°. Combine 1¼ cups cherries, ¼ cup sugar, 4 teaspoons flour, and a pinch of salt in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly; cook 30 seconds more, then remove from heat and let cool completely, 30 minutes. Stir in remaining ½ cup cherries and lime juice (you should have 1 cup). 2. Beat together cream cheese, lime zest, egg yolk, remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, and remaining pinch of salt on medium
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Recipes
speed until smooth. Beat in coconut and remaining 1 tablespoon flour. 3. On a lightly floured sheet of parchment, roll out dough to a 16½-by-12½-inch rectangle. Trim edges. Cut in half horizontally; cut each half into four 4-by-6-inch rectangles (8 total). Slide parchment onto a baking sheet; refrigerate 15 minutes. 4. Remove dough from refriger- ator. Place 1 tablespoon creamcheese mixture on one short side of a piece of dough. Top with about 2 tablespoons cherry mixture. Brush edges with egg wash, then fold dough over to enclose filling. Press edges with a fork to seal. Repeat with remaining pastry and filling. Cut a 1-inch vent in top of each pastry. Brush off excess flour, then brush with egg wash. Freeze 15 minutes. Transfer to oven, reduce temperature to 375°, and bake until pies are puffed, golden brown, and bubbling, 32 to 37 minutes. Transfer immediately to a wire rack; let cool completely.
VARIATIONS
Strawberry: Start recipe with 10 ounces strawberries, cut into ½-inch pieces (1¾ cups). In step 1, cook 1¼ cups fruit with 3 tablespoons sugar, 4 table- spoons flour, and a pinch of salt. Replace lime juice and zest with orange juice and zest. Mixed Berry: Start recipe with 10 ounces berries (1¾ cups). In step 1, cook 1¼ cups fruit with ⅓ cup sugar, 4 tablespoons flour, and a pinch of salt. Apricot: Start recipe with 10 ounces apricots (3 large or 5 small), cut into a ½-inch dice (1¾ cups). In step 1, cook 1¼ cups fruit with ⅓ cup sugar, 4 tablespoons flour, and a pinch of salt. Peach: Start recipe with 10 ounces peaches (2 medium), cut into a ½-inch dice (1¾ cups). In step 1, cook 1¼ cups fruit with 3 tablespoons sugar, 2 table- spoons flour, and a pinch of salt. Replace lime juice and zest with lemon juice and zest. Plum-Blueberry: Start recipe with 6 ounces plums (1 to 2, preferably Italian prune), cut into a ½-inch dice (1 cup); and 4 ounces blueberries (¾ cup). In step 1, cook 1¼ cups fruit with 6 tablespoons sugar, 2 table- spoons flour, and a pinch of salt. Replace lime juice and zest with lemon juice and zest.
PLUM-AND-BLACKBERRY CORNMEAL-ALMOND CRUMB BARS
Active Time: 30 min. Total Time: 3 hr. Serves: 16
Ripe plums are very juicy, without much structure, so they’re best combined with another stone fruit or berries—in this instance, plump, sweet blackberries. If you can only find tart blackberries, use an equal amount of blueberries. Nectarines or peaches are also lovely.
CRUST
1 stick plus 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pan ¼ cup blanched almonds 1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour ¼ cup coarse cornmeal ¾ teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup sugar
FILLING
12 ounces plums (about 6), preferably Italian prune, cut into a ½-inch dice (1¾ cups) 1 cup blackberries (4 ounces) ⅔ cup sugar (or ½ cup, if plums are very sweet) 3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1. Crust: Preheat oven to 375°. Butter an 8-by-8-by-2-inch cake pan. Line with parchment, leaving a 2-inch overhang on two sides; butter parchment. Spread almonds in a single layer on a baking sheet; toast until golden brown and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Let cool 15 minutes, then coarsely chop. Whisk together flour, cornmeal, and salt.
2. Beat butter with sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Scrape down bowl. Add flour mixture; beat until dough forms clumps but does not completely hold together. Press 3 cups of dough mixture into bottom and 1 inch up sides of prepared pan. Stir almonds into remaining dough mixture. 3. Filling: Stir together plums, blackberries, sugar, flour, lemon juice, pepper, and salt. Pour into crust. Crumble remaining crust mixture over top, squeez- ing to create clumps. Bake until bubbling in center and crust is golden, 1 hour to 1 hour, 10 minutes (if browning too quickly, tent with foil after about 50 minutes). Let cool 1 hour. Remove from pan and transfer to a wire rack; let cool completely, about 2 hours. Cut into squares.
VARIATIONS
Berry: For filling, stir together 12 ounces mixed berries other than strawberries (3 cups); ⅔ cup sugar; 3 tablespoons flour; 1 teaspoon lemon juice; ¼ teaspoon pepper, and ¼ teaspoon salt. In step 3, bake 1 hour. Apricot: For filling, stir together 1¼ pounds apricots (6 large or 12 small), cut into a ½-inch dice (3½ cups); ¾ cup sugar; 2 tablespoons flour; 1 teaspoon lemon juice; ¼ teaspoon salt, and a pinch of freshly ground cardamom. Cherry: For filling, stir together 1¼ pounds sour cherries, pitted and halved (3 cups); ⅔ cup sugar; 2 tablespoons flour; 1 teaspoon lemon juice; ¼ teaspoon pepper, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Peach: For filling, stir together 1¼ pounds peaches, cut into a ½-inch dice (3½ cups); ½ cup sugar; 2 tablespoons flour; 2 teaspoons lemon juice; ½ teaspoon salt; and ¼ teaspoon cinnamon.
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COLLECTING
GLASS ACTS
Celery may strike you more as a crudités-platter staple than an edible centerpiece. But back in the day—the early 19th century, that is—the leafy vegetable was such a delicacy and status symbol that a formal vessel was made just to serve it. Today, clear pressed-glass versions from Pittsburgh, a city once known for its glassworks industry, are not hard to find. Blown-glass vases from the U.K. (second from right), with their intricately cut details and popular motifs, such as the lion’s-head stem (front center), are highly coveted by collec- tors. You don’t need to host a fancy meal to put these fetching finds to use: Fill a few with flowers, herbs, or foliage for an elevated display any day.
PHOTOGRAPH BY CHELSEA CAVANAUGH TEXT BY FRANCES VIGNA CREATED BY FRITZ KARCH
