The Handbook

Recipes From This Issue

It’s Going to Be a Roast

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CAULIFLOWER-ANDMUSHROOM ROAST

Active Time: 25 min. Total Time: 1 hr. Serves: 4 to 6

1 head cauliflower (about 3 pounds), trimmed and cut into 1-inch slices ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, halved if large 8 ounces cremini mushrooms, trimmed and cut into ¼-inch slices

2 slices rustic bread (each 1 inch thick), crusts removed, torn into small pieces (1½ cups)

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 5 ounces Gruyère or fontina (or a combination), thinly sliced

1. Preheat oven to 450° with racks in upper and lower thirds. Brush cauliflower on both sides with 4 tablespoons oil; spread in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Toss mushrooms with 3 tablespoons oil; spread on a second sheet. Toss bread with remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season all with salt and pepper. 2. Place cauliflower on top rack; roast 10 minutes. Add mushrooms on bottom rack; roast 15 minutes more. Flip cauliflower and mushrooms. Sprinkle bread over mushrooms; roast 10 minutes more. Remove from oven; transfer mushrooms and bread to sheet with cauliflower. Top with cheese; roast until melted and bubbly, 5 to 7 minutes more. Serve immediately.

ROASTED-CARROT-ANDBEET TART

Active Time: 40 min. Total Time: 1 hr. 35 min. Serves: 12

The cilantro here is fragrant even after cooking, and the vegetables’ sweetness is offset by the toasted spices. Roasting beets provides more intense flavor but requires peeling them raw, which can leave hands red; consider wearing gloves. 3 medium beets (about 12 ounces), peeled and cut into ½-inch slices

1 pound slender carrots (about 12), peeled 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing

Kosher salt

10 sheets phyllo (each 12 by 17 inches), thawed if frozen ¾ cup Hazelnut-Cilantro

Chermoula (recipe follows) ⅓ cup sour cream 2 large eggs

1. Preheat oven to 425°. Rub beets and carrots all over with oil. Season with salt. Spread in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet; roast, turning once, until browned in spots and tender, 25 to 30 minutes for beets, 30 to 35 minutes for carrots. (Start checking at low end of range and remove any that are done.) 2. Lightly brush a 10-by-15-inch jelly-roll pan with oil. Brush 1 phyllo sheet with oil; fit into pan, leaving a 1-inch overhang. (Keep remaining phyllo covered with plastic as you work.) Top with a second sheet in a slightly different position; brush with oil. Repeat with remaining phyllo to make a crust with a 1-inch overhang all around. Fold edges under to double thickness. (Don’t worry if some pieces crack along edge.) 3. Crumple 6 pieces of foil into a rectangle the size of interior of tart; fit into crust. Bake until edges are golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove foil. Bake until crust is golden all over, 6 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack; let cool. Reduce oven to 375°.

4. Meanwhile, in a food processor, blend chermoula, sour cream, and eggs. Pour mixture into baked crust; top with carrots and beets. Bake until filling is set, about 15 minutes. Serve warm or room temperature, or store, tented with foil, at room temperature up to 1 day.

HAZELNUT-CILANTRO CHERMOULA

Active Time: 15 min. Total Time: 20 min. Makes: 1¼ cups This North African–style sauce is also delicious spooned over yogurt or eggs for breakfast, or simply tossed with any roasted vegetable for a flavor-packed side. 1 cup skin-on hazelnuts (5 ounces) 1½ teaspoons whole cumin seeds

1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds 1½ cups packed cilantro 2 wide strips orange zest, finely chopped (1 tablespoon), plus ¼ cup fresh juice ¼ teaspoon finely chopped garlic

Kosher salt ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 375°. Roast hazelnuts on a baking sheet until fragrant and skins loosen, about 10 minutes. Let cool briefly, then rub off skins with a clean kitchen towel (do not worry about getting them all, just what comes off easily). Let cool completely. 2. In a small skillet over mediumhigh, toast cumin and coriander seeds until dark brown and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Finely grind in a spice grinder, or crush with a mortar and pestle. 3. Pulse hazelnuts in a food processor until texture resembles coarse meal. Add spices, cilantro, zest, garlic, and 1 teaspoon salt; pulse to combine. Add oil and orange juice; pulse to combine. Chermoula can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 1 week.

ROASTED SQUASH WITH CHERRY TOMATOES AND EGGS

Active Time: 20 min. Total Time: 1 hr. 10 min. Serves: 4

Look for very small butternut squashes, or small to medium acorn squashes. If you find the hollow in a butternut isn’t large enough, scoop a bit of the cooked flesh out before adding the egg. 2 small butternut or acorn squashes (no larger than 1¼ to 1½ pounds each), halved lengthwise and seeded 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, plus 6 sprigs 2 cups cherry tomatoes (11 ounces), stem-on, if desired 2 teaspoons chile paste, such as sambal oelek, plus more for serving 4 large eggs

1. Preheat oven to 425° with racks in upper and lower thirds. Line 2 baking sheets with foil. Rub squashes all over with 1 table- spoon oil. Season with salt and thyme leaves, then place, cutsides down, on a baking sheet. Add thyme sprigs. Place on upper rack; roast 10 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, toss tomatoes in remaining 1 tablespoon oil;

THE HANDBOOK

season with salt. Spread on second sheet in a single layer. Place on lower rack; roast until tomatoes are beginning to collapse and squashes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes more.

3. Remove tomatoes. Turn squashes cut-sides up and roast 5 minutes more. If hollows in squashes are large enough, spoon a tomato or two into each. Spoon ½ teaspoon chile paste into each hollow, then crack an egg into each; season with salt. Bake until whites are set but still a bit wobbly and yolks are soft, 12 to 15 minutes. (Start checking for doneness at early end of range, removing squashes with cooked eggs as they’re done.) Let stand 3 minutes, then serve, with more chile paste and roasted tomatoes, and seasoned with pepper.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH ORANGES AND BACON

Active Time: 15 min. Total Time: 1 hr. 10 min. Serves: 6

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing 2 small oranges, cut in half, then into ½-inch slices

Kosher salt

3 to 4 strips thick-cut bacon, cut into ¼-inch pieces (1 cup) 1½ pounds brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved

1. Preheat oven to 425°. Brush a rimmed baking sheet generously with oil. Add oranges, in a single layer, turning to coat. Season with salt and drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil; roast 15 minutes. Add bacon and roast until crisp, about 12 minutes.

2. Toss brussels sprouts with remaining 4 tablespoons oil; season with salt. Add to baking sheet; toss to combine. Roast, tossing once, until sprouts are tender and browning at edges and oranges are deeply caramelized, 25 to 30 minutes more.

INDIAN-SPICED EGGPLANT STACKS

Active Time: 20 min. Total Time: 1 hr. 30 min. Serves: 4

Warm naan and some cucumbers make a nice accompaniment to this dish.

2 medium eggplants (1 to 1¼ pounds each), cut into at least twelve ¾-inch rounds

Kosher salt ¾ teaspoon whole cumin seeds ⅓ cup safflower oil, plus more for baking sheet 2 cloves garlic, grated (2 teaspoons) 1 2-inch piece ginger, peeled and grated (2 tablespoons) ½ cup Greek yogurt 2 to 3 small tomatoes, cut into twelve ¼-inch slices

Cilantro leaves, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 425° with racks in top and center. Sprinkle eggplants generously with salt; arrange in a single layer on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Let stand 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a skillet over medium-high, toast cumin seeds until dark brown and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Finely grind in a spice grinder, or crush with a mortar and pestle. Stir together with 2 teaspoons oil, garlic, ginger, and ½ teaspoon salt. 3. Rinse eggplants; pat dry with paper towels. Brush baking sheet generously with oil. Brush eggplants on both sides with remaining oil; season lightly with salt. Arrange in a single layer on sheet and roast on center rack, flipping once, until tender and golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Spread about ½ teaspoon garlic- ginger mixture over each slice; roast 5 minutes more. Remove; adjust oven to broil. 4. Divide yogurt among eggplant slices, spreading over tops. Top each with a tomato slice; season with salt. Broil on top rack until just beginning to brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Stack slices three-high, layering cilantro between each. Serve, garnished with more cilantro.

ROASTED-PARSNIP SOUP WITH CHORIZO

Active Time: 30 min. Total Time: 1 hr. 10 min. Serves: 4 to 6

1½ pounds parsnips (about 7), peeled and cut into 1-inch lengths 1 medium onion (8 ounces), cut into 1-inch chunks

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 3 ounces Spanish chorizo, very thinly sliced (⅔ cup) 2 cloves garlic, very thinly sliced (1 tablespoon), plus 1 clove, minced (1 teaspoon) 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth

Caper Tapenade (recipe follows), for serving (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 425°. Toss parsnips and onion with 2 tablespoons oil. Season with salt. Spread in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast 15 minutes. Flip; roast until golden brown and tender, about 20 minutes more.

2. Meanwhile, in a small skillet over medium-high, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add chorizo and cook, turning, until crisp and golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a small plate. Reduce heat to medium and add sliced garlic; cook until just golden, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Transfer to plate with chorizo; reserve oil in skillet. 3. Transfer roasted vegetables to a medium saucepan; add broth, ½ cup water, and minced garlic. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, partially covered, until vegetables are very soft, about 10 minutes. Working in batches, blend until smooth (if necessary, thin with up to ¼ cup water total). Season

Recipes

with salt and pepper. Just before serving, heat soup through in saucepan over medium-high. Serve, topping each bowl with a few pieces of chorizo and cooked garlic, a spoonful of caper tapenade, and a drizzle of reserved chorizo oil.

CAPER TAPENADE

Active/Total Time: 5 min. Makes: About ½ cup One of the best ways to use this bright condiment is spooned over broiled or grilled fish. ⅓ cup brined capers (from a 3.75-ounce jar), drained and coarsely chopped ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest, plus 2 tablespoons fresh juice (from 2 lemons) ¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Spoon into an airtight container. Tapenade can be refrigerated up to 1 week.

MARINATED FETA AND CELERY

Active/Total Time: 10 min. Makes: About 2 cups Try this briny crumble tossed into roasted-vegetable salads. Or, for a tasty sandwich, spoon some onto toast and melt under the broiler before topping with roasted veggies. 5 ounces feta, crumbled 1 red chile (seeded, if less heat is desired), thinly sliced crosswise (1 tablespoon) 2 small stalks celery, thinly sliced crosswise (¾ cup), plus ¼ cup celery leaves 3 to 4 tablespoons red-wine vinegar

Kosher salt ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Combine feta, chile, celery and leaves, and vinegar in a bowl. Season with salt. Spoon into an airtight container; top with oil. Mixture can be refrigerated up to 1 week; return to room temperature before using.

THE HANDBOOK

PICKLED RED ONIONS AND OLIVES

Active/Total Time: 8 min. Makes: 1 pint This quick pickle adds a bright kick to salads, fried foods, and roasted vegetables. Try it as a pizza topping, with roasted cauliflower and some thinly sliced salami. 1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced (1½ cups) 25 large green olives, such as

Castelvetrano, pitted (⅔ cup) ¾ cup distilled white or white- wine vinegar 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Spoon into an airtight con- tainer. Pickles can be refrigerated up to 1 week.

Liquid Gold

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BROWN BUTTER

Active/Total Time: 10 min.

Use this method in the following recipes, adjusting the amount of butter as needed.

Melt butter in a saucepan over medium-high. When it boils, reduce heat to medium; simmer until foamy. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally and scraping bottom of pan, until foam subsides, butter turns golden brown with a nutty aroma, and milk solids separate into brown specks that sink to bottom, 2 to 7 minutes (depending on amount). Remove from heat; immediately transfer to a heatproof bowl unless otherwise noted in recipe (butter may burn if left in hot pan).

“HUSBAND BLINDERS” WITH RAINBOW CHARD AND BROWN-BUTTER SAUCE

Active Time: 1 hr. 30 min. Total Time: 2 hr. 20 min. Serves: 4 to 6

¼ cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc, room temperature ⅔ cup warm water (110°) 2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast (one 1¼-ounce envelope) 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 cup semolina flour, plus more for dusting 1 stick unsalted butter

2 cloves garlic, minced (2 teaspoons) ¼ teaspoon red-pepper flakes, plus more for serving 12 ounces rainbow chard, stems sliced, leaves coarsely chopped ⅓ cup heavy cream ¼ cup grated Parmesan, plus more for serving 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted, for serving

1. Stir together wine, warm water, yeast, and sugar in a large bowl; let stand 5 minutes. Stir in oil and 1½ teaspoons salt, then both flours. Transfer to a lightly floured work surface and knead with floured hands until dough is smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky but no longer sticky, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl brushed with oil. Cover with a kitchen towel; let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 45 minutes.

2. Punch down dough. Shape into a ball on a clean surface; divide into 6 pieces. Working with one piece at a time (keep remaining dough covered), roll out with floured hands into a long, ½-inch- diameter log (if dough slides on surface and is difficult to roll out, dampen your hands). Cut into ½-inch pieces. Roll each piece back and forth between your palms to form a 3-inch-long spindle- shaped piece of pasta (center should be thicker than edges). Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet generously dusted with semolina, turning pasta to evenly coat. Repeat with remaining dough, keeping pasta in a single layer (use a second sheet dusted with semolina, if necessary). If not using immediately, cover pasta with plastic and refrigerate up to 1 day. 3. Brown butter in a medium saucepan (see method, left). Heat a large straight-sided skillet over medium. Add 2 tablespoons brown butter, garlic, and redpepper flakes; cook 30 seconds. Stir in chard stems, season with salt and pepper, and cook until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in chard leaves and cook until wilted and tender, about 5 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of generously salted water until pasta is al dente, floats to the surface, and puffs, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, immediately transfer to skillet along with ½ cup pasta water, cream, and cheese. Simmer, gently stirring a few times, until sauce thickens slightly and evenly coats pasta, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve, drizzled with more brown butter and sprinkled with sesame seeds and more red- pepper flakes and cheese.

POACHED SALMON, SPINACH, AND POTATO SALAD

Active Time: 25 min. Total Time: 45 min. Serves: 4

1 pound fingerling potatoes

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 1 skin-on salmon fillet (1 pound), preferably wild, room temperature 6 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons minced shallot 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Recipes

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar 8 ounces spinach, tough stems removed, well washed and spun dry ½ cup packed mint leaves

Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, for serving

1. Combine potatoes and 1 tablespoon kosher salt in a straightsided skillet; add enough water to cover. Boil until potatoes are easily pierced with the tip of a knife, 10 to 12 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl; cover to keep warm. Generously season fish with kosher salt and pepper. Gently lower into skillet, skin-side down, adding more water if fish is not fully submerged. Return to a boil; then remove from heat, cover, and let stand until fish is just cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes (depending on thick- ness of fillet). Transfer to a plate, skin-side up; cover to keep warm. 2. Brown butter in a medium saucepan (see method, left). Remove from heat and immediately whisk in shallot, Dijon, and vinegar (mixture will foam and splatter). Season generously with kosher salt and pepper; cover to keep warm. 3. Halve potatoes and toss with spinach, mint, and two-thirds of vinaigrette; divide evenly among 4 plates. Remove skin from fish; drizzle with remaining vinaigrette. Flake into several pieces, divide among salads, and serve, sprinkled with flaky salt.

CHICKEN POTPIE WITH BROWN-BUTTER CRUST

Active Time: 1 hr. 15 min. Total Time: 3 hr. 35 min. Serves: 6 to 8

The dough can be made and refrigerated two days ahead—and can also be frozen for up to six months (thaw completely before using).

CRUST

1 stick unsalted butter 1¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting ½ teaspoon kosher salt

THE HANDBOOK

FILLING

1 whole chicken (3½ pounds), quartered 2 leeks, white and pale-green parts thinly sliced (2 cups), 6 dark-green tops reserved 3 stalks celery, 1 halved, 2 chopped (¾ cup) 8 ounces cremini mushrooms, stems removed and reserved, caps coarsely chopped ½ small butternut squash, seeded, peeled, and chopped (2½ cups), peelings reserved

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth 6 tablespoons unsalted butter ⅓ cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves ½ cup dry white wine, such as

Sauvignon Blanc 1 cup frozen peas, thawed ½ cup packed chopped fresh flatleaf parsley leaves 1 large egg white

1. Crust: Brown butter in a medium saucepan (see method, page 140); let cool completely. Pour into an ice-cube tray, filling cups halfway. Freeze until cold and firm, about 1 hour. Pulse flour and salt in a food processor to combine. Add chilled brown butter; pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal with some pea-size lumps. Drizzle with 3 tablespoons ice water. Pulse until mixture just begins to hold together. (If mixture crumbles when squeezed in your hand, drizzle with 1 more tablespoon ice water and pulse a few more times.) Transfer to a piece of plastic wrap; knead just until dough holds together. Loosely cover and shape into a disk. Wrap tightly and refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour. 2. Filling: Meanwhile, combine chicken, reserved leek tops, halved celery, mushroom stems, squash peelings, and 1 tablespoon salt in a large pot. Add broth and enough water to just cover chicken. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and simmer until a thermometer inserted into thickest parts of chicken (without touching bones) registers 160°, about 20 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate. Strain broth; reserve 2½ cups (refrigerate or freeze remainder for another use). 3. Brown butter for filling in pot. Add sliced leeks and chopped celery, mushroom caps, and squash; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until squash begins to soften, about 5 minutes. Stir in flour and thyme; cook until darkened slightly and nutty, about 2 minutes. Add wine; boil until mostly evaporated, about 30 seconds. Stir in reserved broth and bring to a boil, then remove from heat. Pull chicken from skin and bones and tear into bite-size pieces. Stir into pot with peas and parsley. Transfer to a 3-quart baking dish. (Filling can be made up to 2 days ahead

and refrigerated; stir in peas and parsley just before baking.) 4. Preheat oven to 400°. On a floured work surface, roll out dough to a diameter slightly larger than baking dish. Center dough over filling; trim edges to a ½-inch overhang. Beat egg white with 1 teaspoon water; brush over dough. Cut vents in center. Bake until crust is golden brown and filling bubbles, 35 to 45 minutes. Let cool 20 minutes before serving.

LILLET-AND-BROWNBUTTER-GLAZED RADISHES WITH KOHLRABI

Active Time: 20 min. Total Time: 35 min. Serves: 6 Look for radishes with fresh, vibrant green tops, which lend a striking color and mild peppery bite. 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 large bunch globe radishes (about 12), halved, plus leafy green tops for serving 1 large or 2 small kohlrabies (about ¾ pound), peeled and cut into ½-inch wedges 1 cup Lillet Blanc

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Brown butter in a large skillet (see method, page 140). Add radishes, kohlrabi, Lillet, and ¾ cup water. Generously season with salt and pepper. Boil, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are crisp-tender and liquid is reduced to a glaze that evenly coats vegetables, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a serving bowl; let cool 5 minutes. Toss with radish greens; serve.

CRAB-AND-AVOCADO EGGS BENEDICT

Active Time: 30 min. Total Time: 35 min. Makes: 4

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 large egg yolks, plus 4 whole eggs 6 tablespoons unsalted butter

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper 1 tablespoon white vinegar 1 avocado, halved, pitted, and peeled 2 English muffins, split

Recipes

8 ounces jumbo lump crabmeat 1 teaspoon minced fresh tarragon

1. Whisk together lemon juice, Dijon, egg yolks, and 3 tablespoons water in a heatproof bowl. Brown butter in a saucepan (see method, page 140). Very slowly drizzle into lemon mix- ture, whisking constantly, then season with salt and pepper. Return to saucepan; set aside. 2. Bring 1 inch water and vinegar to a simmer in a nonstick skillet over medium-high. Meanwhile, mash avocado in a bowl; season with salt and pepper. Toast muffins and spread avocado onto split sides; top with crab. Gently crack eggs into simmering water. Simmer until whites are

THE HANDBOOK

Recipes

set but yolks are still runny, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate with a slotted spoon; let drain 30 seconds, then place atop crab. Warm Hollandaise over low, whisk- ing constantly (do not let boil), until thickened slightly and heated through, 1 minute. Remove from heat, stir in tarragon, and spoon evenly over eggs. Serve immediately.

APPLE-CARDAMOM BROWNBUTTER DUTCH BABY

Active Time: 20 min. Total Time: 40 min. Serves: 4

The batter can also be made in a blender: Mix the eggs until pale and frothy, then add the remaining ingredients and purée until smooth. 4 tablespoons unsalted butter ⅓ cup sugar ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom 3 large eggs, room temperature ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon kosher salt ⅔ cup whole milk, room temperature ½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 Granny Smith apple, cored, peeled, and cut into ¼-inch wedges

Sour cream, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 450° with a 10-inch cast-iron skillet on center rack. Brown butter in a saucepan (see method, page 140). Transfer to a heatproof bowl. 2. Stir together sugar and cardamom. In a large bowl, beat eggs on medium-high until pale and frothy, about 2 minutes. Add flour, salt, milk, vanilla, and 1 tablespoon cardamom sugar; beat until smooth, about 1 minute (batter will be thin). 3. Carefully remove skillet from oven. Add brown butter and apple, stirring a few times to evenly coat. Spread apple into a single layer; pour batter into skillet. Bake until puffed, crisp on top, and golden brown in places, 20 to 25 minutes. Immediately sprinkle with 2 tablespoons cardamom sugar. Cut into wedges and serve, with sour cream and remaining cardamom sugar.

LEMONY BROWN-BUTTER CRINKLE COOKIES

Active Time: 35 min. Total Time: 1 hr. 55 min. Makes: 3 dozen

1 stick unsalted butter 2¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour ¾ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¾ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup dark-brown sugar 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, plus 3 tablespoons fresh juice 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract ¾ cup confectioners’ sugar

1. Brown butter in a saucepan (see method, page 140); transfer to a large heatproof bowl and let cool 10 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together flour, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt in another bowl. Stir granulated and brown sugars into brown butter until combined, then stir in eggs, lemon zest and juice, and vanilla. Add flour mixture; stir until a dough forms. Transfer to a piece of plastic wrap, shape into a disk, and wrap tightly. Refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour and up to 2 days. 2. Preheat oven to 350° with racks in upper and lower thirds. Place confectioners’ sugar in a bowl. Scoop 1 tablespoon dough and roll into a ball between your palms; toss with confectioners’ sugar (do not shake off excess). Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough and confectioners’ sugar, leaving 1 inch between each cookie (you will need 2 baking sheets). Bake, rotating sheets halfway through, until cookies spread slightly, crackle, and are set at edges, 15 to 18 minutes. Let cool on sheets on a wire rack 5 minutes, then carefully transfer to rack; let cool completely. Store in a single layer in an airtight container up to 2 days.

KENTUCKY BOURBON–BROWN BUTTER CAKE

Active Time: 35 min. Total Time: 1 hr. 55 min., plus cooling Serves: 10 to 12

Use a high-quality bourbon—we like Bulleit—for the glaze; the flavor will shine through.

CAKE

2 sticks unsalted butter, plus more, softened, for brushing 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 teaspoon baking powder ¾ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon kosher salt 4 large eggs, room temperature 1½ cups sugar 1 cup buttermilk, room temperature 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

GLAZE

6 tablespoons unsalted butter ⅓ cup Kentucky bourbon whiskey ¾ cup sugar

1. Cake: Preheat oven to 350° . Brush a standard Bundt pan with butter, then dust with flour, tapping out excess. 2. Brown butter in a saucepan (see method, page 140); transfer to a heatproof bowl and let cool 10 minutes. Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. In another bowl, whisk together eggs, sugar, buttermilk, and vanilla. Whisk brown butter into egg mixture, then stir in flour mixture just to combine (do not overmix). Pour batter into prepared pan; smooth top with a spatula. Bake until golden brown and a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean, 50 to 55 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack 15 minutes.

3. Glaze: Meanwhile, brown butter for glaze in a saucepan. Remove from heat; carefully add bourbon (mixture will bubble vigorously). When bubbles subside, stir in sugar to combine. Cook over medium-low, stirring occasionally, just until mixture is smooth and runs from a spoon in a thin, translucent stream (sugar will not dissolve completely; do not let mixture boil). Pierce holes in cake (still in pan) to bottom with a wooden skewer at 1-inch intervals. Slowly drizzle glaze evenly over cake; let stand until glaze is fully absorbed, about 15 minutes. Invert onto a cake plate. Let cool completely before slicing and serving. Cake can be stored in an airtight container up to 3 days.

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