HOW-TO

HOW-TO

CONTOUR

These (admittedly strange-looking) sleights of hand are genius at enhancing features.Andyou don’t have to be a magician to pull them off. Chicago makeup artistJenny Patinkin shares her go-to techniques.

DARK PARTS

Applying a darker shade (with a foundation that’s one shade darker than your skin tone or a matte bronzer) makes features recede. Do it first.

1. FOREHEAD

Starting at the temple, dot the darker shade along the hairline. Then blend with a brush. FYI: On the left, the model’s face is unblended; on the right is the finished look.

2. EYELIDS

Add definition by sweeping the darker hue along your socket line. Move the brush in a windshieldwiper motion to blend.

3. NOSE

Draw dashes along both sides, extending the color down under the tip slightly if you want to make your nose appear shorter or higher. Blend.

4. CHEEKS

Suck in your cheeks, then place the darker shade underneath your cheekbones. More blending.

5. JAWLINE

Sharpen your jawline by running the darker color slightly underneath it. Buff downward to soften any lines. For the final time, blend.

Written by Didi Gluck Photograph by Barbara Donninelli

LIGHT PARTS

Applying a lighter shade (with concealer or highlighter) brings features forward. Do it last. Dab or dust it onto these spots, then blend some more.

• Center of forehead • Underneath eyebrows • Inner corners of eyes • Tops of cheekbones • Down middle of nose • Cupid’s bow (above the middle part of the top lip)

THE TOOLS

You’ll need an angled brush or sponge, plus one darker shade and one lighter shade. This compact has both: Marc Jacobs Beauty #Instamarc Light Filtering Contour Powder ($49, sephora.com).