summer face

HOW TO WEAR JEANS NOW

They have been, and remain, your 24-7 basic. But they also remain sometimes tricky to fit (and pull off). Here’s a tutorial on which of the season’s newest cuts are cut out for you.

Written by Penny Wren Photographs by Johnny Miller

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WHO CAN WEAR THEM?

Anyone. “The girlfriend jean is the answer to the question ‘How can I wear jeans that are relaxed but not sloppy?’ ” says Peggi Jewell, the vice president of merchandising and design for 7 for All Mankind. The sleeker silhouette eliminates the boxiness that’s typical with boyfriend jeans (which often swallow up petite frames or make full hips and thighs appear bigger).

Girlfriend jeans

THINK OF THESE AS SCHLUMPY BOYFRIEND JEANS, ON A DIET. THEY’RE JUST AS COMFORTABLE, ONLY CUTER.

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HOW SHOULD THEY FIT?

You want them to be slightly roomy, as opposed to slouchy and hanging off your hips. They look best when they follow, not cling to, the curves of your body.

1 CURVY FIT RUBY BOYFRIEND BY LEE

TO BUY: $58, lee.com.

2 EMERSON BY CITIZENS OF HUMANITY

TO BUY: $258, citizensofhumanity.com.

3 STRAIGHT CROP AND ROLL BY JEN7

TO BUY: $175, neimanmarcus.com. This pair’s contoured waistband promises there will be no gapping on top.

WHAT TO PAIR THEM WITH

Can you say, “Limitless dress-up or dress-down potential”? A lighter or distressed wash gives anything you pair them with—whether it’s a structured blazer and wedges or a button-down and slip-on sneakers— a dose of not-trying-toohard chicness.

Rolled cuffs 101

They’re baaack. A little refresher course. (Note: Pegging—the tight rolling from the 80s—is still passé.) Fold the hem upward about 1/2 inch. Repeat once or twice more until the rolled cuff hits about an inch or two above your ankle. “Any higher than that and it’s a Capri,” says Lady Fuller, the CEO of the Blues Jean Bar, a specialty retail store with three U.S. locations. Make a point to avoid symmetry— cuffs look more effortless and cool a bit off-kilter.

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WHO CAN WEAR THEM?

As it stands now, most flares are made for women who are around five feet seven or taller. Yes, you can tailor them. “But you lose the integrity of the flare if you chop off too much,” says Jewell, who adds that 7 for All Mankind recently began making flared jeans for women of average height (around five-five). No matter what your shape (apple, pear, petite— whatever), this style will make your legs look longer.

HOW SHOULD THEY FIT?

Aim for a mid to high rise that fits snugly through the hips and thighs, with the flare starting right above the knee. “If the flare begins lower than that, you’ll look like you’re wearing bell-bottoms,” says Fuller.

Flared jeans

UNLIKE BELL-BOTTOMS, THESE 70S-STYLE WIDE-LEGS BOAST A MORE FLATTERING GRADUAL FLARE.

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1 BROOKE FLARE BY LUCKY BRAND JEANS

TO BUY: $99, dillards.com.

2 MAJORELLE FLARE BY MCGUIRE

TO BUY: $207, clubmonaco.com.

3 LE FLARE DE FRANCOISE BY FRAME DENIM

TO BUY: $239, net-a-porter.com. DIY alert: Raw edges are now OK—cool even. Cut hems yourself on any style of jean. Just be careful not to chop off too much!

WHAT TO PAIR THEM WITH

“I’m envisioning a little black T-shirt and red espadrille wedges,” says Fuller. You can opt for a shirt that’s fitted or loose; tucked or untucked, so long as the hem stops near the waist or hips. If the top covers your back pockets, it’s too long.

Flares dragging on the ground?

Here’s how to fix that. 1. Wash the jeans first. They may shrink as much as 1/2 inch in length. 2. Try them with heels, the chunkier, the better. Failproof options are wedges, stacked heels, and platforms. 3. Still too long? Cut them and leave a raw edge. (See center pair.) 4. If you prefer the polish of finished hems, bring the jeans to a tailor. Also take along a few pairs of shoes that you plan to wear with them. This way, you’ll find a length that works for all of them. “Ideally, just the tips of your shoes should peek out,” says Jewell. “If the jeans bunch up, they’re too long.

Vintagey straight jeans

THE INSPIRATION: LEVI’S 501S FROM WAY BACK WHEN. THE 2015-APPROVED VERSION IMPROVES UPON THE CLASSIC CUT WITH A FEMALE-FRIENDLY FIT.

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WHO CAN WEAR THEM?

Calling all heights and body types. Since the leg doesn’t taper and there’s a straight line from the knee to the leg opening, it’s more accommodating than skinnies—especially if you’re fuller on your lower body (hips, thighs, calves).

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HOW SHOULD THEY FIT?

“You can wear them tight through the hips and thighs or a bit loose and slouchy,” says Jill Guenza, the global vice president of women’s design for Levi Strauss & Co. To keep the look modern, not dowdy, choose a slightly cropped pair.

1 HIS JEAN IN GRACE BY GOLDSIGN

TO BUY: $268, amarees.com.

2 1969 DESTRUCTED GIRLFRIEND JEAN BY GAP

TO BUY: $80, gap.com.

3 CROPPED RELAXED SKINNY WITH RELEASED HEM BY 7 FOR ALL MANKIND

TO BUY: $198, 7forallmankind.com.

WHAT TO PAIR THEM WITH

Go for a light wash to up the “vintage” factor. Channel Marilyn Monroe with a knotted-in-thefront oversize oxford. Or try a floral boho blouse or a striped preppy polo. Sport your knockout heels or your kick-back flats.

The extra-soft denim and the “fallen hem” look give this pair an instant broken-in feel.

Battle of the brands

Find the labels most likely to fit you.

CURVY:

Curve ID, J Brand, Joe’s Jeans, Levi’s, 7 for All Mankind.

TUMMY:

Forever 21, Frame Denim, Henry & Belle, Level 99.

PETITE:

AG Jeans, Ann Taylor, Gap, MiH Jeans at Shopbop. TALL: Acne Studios, Banana Republic, J.Crew, Uniqlo.

PLUS SIZE:

Asos, Ava & Viv at Target, Avenue, Eloquii.

MATURE:

Citizens of Humanity Sculpt, Jen 7, Lee Jeans, NYDJ.

WHO CAN WEAR THEM?

Most figures, with caveats. If you’re belly-conscious or prone to muffin top, opt for a mid-rise with more tummy coverage, says Fuller. For curvy figures, try a waistband that’s cut higher in the back to fit the waist and hips better.

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HOW SHOULD THEY FIT?

“They should follow the lines of your body,” says Jewell. “But they shouldn’t make you look sausage-y, either.” There should be minimal creasing and bunching in the leg, seat, and tummy areas.

Skinny jeans

THE FITS-LIKE-A-SECOND-SKIN SILHOUETTE REFUSES TO DIE. LIGHTER WASHES KEEP IT UP-TO-DATE.

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1 721 HIGH RISE SKINNY BY LEVI’S

TO BUY: $78, levi.com.

2 TWIST BY AMO DENIM

TO BUY: $262, fwrd.com.

3 THE LEGGING IN SUN-FADED BLUE NIGHT BY AG JEANS

TO BUY: $198, agjeans.com. Trick of the eye: The side seams sit closer to the front of the legs to slim the thighs visually.

WHAT TO PAIR THEM WITH

You’re in “anything goes” territory. Top them with one of the three T’s— tee, tank, or tunic. As for shoes, you have the freedom to switch from heels to flats or delicate to chunky with abandon.

Stretch factor

A pair that bags is a bum deal. To find jeans that give in a good way…

…ERR ON THE SIDE OF TIGHT.

“Stretch jeans give about a half to a full size after you wear them for a day,” says Fuller, who thinks most women wear skinny jeans that are too loose.

…FORGET PERCENTAGES.

Jeans typically contain 2 to 10 percent stretch (Lycra, spandex, elastane, or polyurethane). But relying on numbers may not be effective, since the stretch factor also depends on the weight of the denim and the cut of the pants. Instead, try on jeans for at least 10 minutes to see if they’ll bag.

…LOOK FOR FOUR-WAY STRETCH.

“The fibers stretch crosswise and lengthwise, allowing jeans to retain their shape,” says Fuller. This type of denim may not be labeled, so ask a salesperson (or Google it).