Le CITY deluxe INDIA _ Feb-Mar 2013 by Le CITY deluxe

Le CITY INDIA

Feb — Mar 2013 `150

DELHI · MUMBAI · BENGALURU · JAISALMER · AND MORE

deluxe

CHITRANGDA SINGH Sultry Meets Elegance

Fashion James Bond – Mission Style Vikas Khanna The Sensual Masterchef Rajasthan Ultimate Luxury Destinations Golf Ireland’s Links Beckon

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CONTENTS 10 Contributors 12 Letters from the Publisher and Editorial Director COVER PHOTOGRAPHED BY AMIT SHARMA, MAKEUP BY MEHAK OBEROI, STYLED BY KANIKA SALUKA CHOUDHRY.

14 India Lens Presidential Procession, Rajpath, 1972, by Raghu Rai.

GUILTY PLEASURES 16 Jewellery The best cocktail bling. 18 Lipsticks Become a scarlet woman. 20 Shoes These classics are a shoe-in! 22 Watches Make time sparkle.

DIALOGUE 24 H.E. Gustavo de Arìstegui The Spanish Ambassador to India reveals a fourth-generation collector's instincts. 28 Ankur Bhatia A computer whiz takes his first steps into luxury hospitality.

ART 32 Visions of India Four international iconic photographers capture a hauntingly beautiful side of India, exhibited at Tasveer Art Gallery.

PASSPORT 36 Desert retreats Arjun Sharma points out the most unique luxe properties in the desert state of Rajasthan. 40 Cuban sojourn Stefan Kamboj tempts globe-trotters with vivid tales of Havana, and comes back with a tan, as well as a new fondness for cigars and street art. 46 Luxury on wheels Tour the vibrant Spanish countryside and enjoy the local gastronomic delights in plush comfort.

CHITRANGDA SINGH Director’s cut

GOURMET 49 Eat treat Dishy Chef Vikas Khanna gives the perfect recipe for a light meal à deux, and charming women. 52 Bengaluru groove Manoviraj Khosla indulges in delectable treats and music from the city’s hippest eateries. 54 Piece of cake New Delhi’s best pâtisseries titillate dessert lovers with their sweet offerings for the season.

COVER STORY 57 Chitrangda Singh Her sulphurous screen presence proves it takes talent, not a bagful of movies to win over the critics and the crowd.

SPANISH AMBASSADOR On being a “hybrid” professional

Subscribe now! Turn to page 114 to fill out your form.

HOLA CUBA! Revolution, rumba, and rum

FASHION 64 Spy case The venerable valise-maker, Globe-Trotter celebrates 50 years of James Bond, and launches in India. 66 Garment guru This former New Yorker makes his home in New Delhi, and establishes a design studio for exclusive, bespoke fabrics. 70 If looks could kill Take a cue from Agent 007’s inimitable sartorial sense that has been redefining style standards for over 50 years. 80 Psychedelic savant True-blue couturier Manish Arora spills his love for his adopted city Paris.

CITY TALK 88 A Tour of Old Delhi Former Chief Election Commissioner SY Quraishi divulges Old Delhi’s best-kept secrets to the US Ambassador to India.

107

SPORTS Ireland’s best golf courses

MANISH ARORA The king of rani pink

92 A silver haven Brewer Sanjiv Bali’s farmhouse is a modern-day silver haveli stuffed with objets d’art. 96 Art show Kochi explodes with artistic talent, and hosts India’s first biennale.

WELLNESS 99 Organic oasis Beauty and weightloss regimen aside, this Philippines spa cures cancer with organic therapy.

SPORTS 102 Polo’s riposte A royal sport makes a triumphant return to the Blue City, and puts the latter on the international map. 107 Hole in one The Irish links challenge the best handicaps in the world with their fierce, albeit stunning terrains.

FASHION James Bond suits up

AUTO 110 Power of 8 Audi’s new coupé, in two engine variants, flaunts its dynamic force on Indian roads.

BOOKS 112 Fashionable fables Three stunning reads on the evolution of luxury couture. 115 Society 121 Calendar: Art 122 Calendar 124 Guide 127 Maximum City Mumbai’s choicest restaurants, spas, and more – revealed 128 Papa CJ The joke’s really on India’s politicos.

VIKAS KHANNA Hot chef in the city

SOUTHERN ART The Kochi-Muziri’s Art Biennale

FEB — MAR 2013

CONTRIBUTORS

RAGHU RAI

ABHISHEK PODDAR

STEFAN KAMBOJ

Raghu Rai, one of India’s most prolific photographers, has had an illustrious career spanning over four decades. He started his journey with a box camera. In 1966 he joined The Statesman as chief of their photo department. In 1971, he was nominated to Magnum Photos, the world’s most prestigious photographers’ cooperative, by legendary lensman Henri Cartier Bresson. Rai has produced more than 20 books, and has been awarded the Padma Shree, and the French award Officier des Arts et des Lettres.

Abhishek Poddar is a collector and patron of the arts. In 2006 he set up the photography gallery Tasveer with his two friends, Shalini Gupta and Naveen Kishore. Today, Tasveer has galleries in Bengaluru, Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, and Ahmedabad. More recently, he established the Tasveer Foundation which aims to form the basis of a new museum for art and photography in Bengaluru.

Design entrepreneur Stefan Kamboj was stung by the travel bug early in life. He was born in London and brought up amidst the splendour of India, before moving on to Tokyo, Berlin, and London. Having studied at King’s College, the London School of Economics, and Humboldt University, Berlin, nowadays he’s either working on his concept design products in New Delhi, or travelling for work or pleasure, or preferably both. Future travel plans include Rio de Janeiro and Buenos Aires.

TARUN KHIWAL

ARJUN SHARMA

ADITI SENGUPTA

Tarun Khiwal worked as a mechanical engineer before trading his nine-to-five job for a career in photography. Today he is one of India’s most sought-after photographers and the recipient of many international and national accolades, including the prestigious Hasselblad Masters Award.

Arjun Sharma is managing director of Select Group which is a diversified business house with interests in shopping centres, hotels, travel and tourism, and private equity. Select Citywalk, Heritage Village Manesar, and Heritage Village Club Goa are part of their portfolio. Arjun is also the managing director of Le Passage to India, a joint venture with TUI Travel – the world’s largest integrated travel management company.

The calendar shows that Aditi SenGupta has more than 12 years in journalism. Those 12 years have taken her to various media houses in Kolkata, Mumbai, and New Delhi. Besides daydreaming, breaking cups and teapots (she has a world record in this), cooking, and playing with dogs, Aditi continues to write and edit. Until she has the money to travel the world – bankruptcy being the latest addition to her crisis-ridden existence, – Aditi is happy with armchair travel.

ASHISH N SONI

MERAJ SHAH

Manoviraj Khosla studied fashion at the American College for Applied Arts in London. He runs his studio in Bengaluru, where he is based. He has a penchant for menswear although he also designs for women. Besides stocking at high-end designer stores, both in India and abroad, he also makes customized pieces for individual clients. Manoviraj has also made uniforms for various corporate houses, hotels, and airlines.

Ashish N Soni launched his namesake label in 1991, followed by his independent design studio Ikos Designs in 1993. Ashish’s history is full of firsts. He was the first Indian designer to hold a solo showing in Delhi, the first designer to be invited to hold a runway show at Olympus Fashion Week, New York, and one of the first Indian couturiers to retail at Selfridges. Ashish also served as chief design officer for the newly launched international luxury brand Vanessa G.

If he wasn’t a writer, Meraj Shah would have liked to be a professional golfer, although by his own admission he “would probably have starved” as one. He’s woven his love for the game, motorcycling, travel, and writing into his work, and now roams the world doing just that. He’s recently co-authored Lonely Planet India’s Thailand Guide for the Indian Traveller and is glad to get that monkey off his back.

AMIT SHARMA

BLANCA PERALTA

PAPA CJ

Self-taught photographer Amit Sharma turned professional in 2000. Since then he has been working mainly in the field of lifestyle, fashion, and travel photography. Amit has travelled to exotic locales all over the world for magazine editorials and ad campaigns, and has always come back smiling. He also plans to get into music videos and conceptual album art photography in the near future.

Born into a family of designers and artists, Indo-Spanish Delhi based-artist, Blanca Peralta has perhaps lived and breathed art as far back as she can remember. She began drawing at age four and started her professional career when 22. Since her first solo exhibit in 2005, she has had four major solo exhibitions and participated in over 35 group shows in the capital and other major cities. Blanca has also exhibited abroad in places like Dubai, London, and New York.

Papa CJ is a world-renowned standup comedian. He has done shows with international comedians like Russell Peters and counts business magnates like Mukesh Ambani among his fans. National dailies haven’t refrained from recognizing his inimitable skills. In addition to this, the funnyman holds a MBA degree from the University of Oxford, has worked as a motivational speaker and executive coach, and runs a charity for underprivileged children in India funded by his comedy.

FEB — MAR 2013

MANOVIRAJ KHOSLA

LETTERS

Suruchi Duggal Publisher & CEO suruchiduggal@le-citydeluxe.com

FEB — MAR 2013

espite the cold, cities across India come alive in the winter. We witnessed the very royal polo cup in Jodhpur, Roberto Cavalli making glam even more glamorous in New Delhi, the Kochi Biennale creating a serious destination for art in the south, and a host of launches and parties across the country. In this issue, we’ve had the pleasure of meeting beautiful, petite star Chitrangda Singh. We interviewed her at home, as she watched tennis with her husband and son. Inkaar, her latest movie with Arjun Rampal, is a box-office success, and will be followed by I, Me, aur Main, out in March. (Pg. 57.) Travel-wise, stay at one of the beautiful luxury hotels in Rajasthan, and enjoy breathtaking vistas from dusk till dawn. And in Delhi, the über-luxe Dusit Devarana opens its doors this autumn. Enjoy designer Manish Arora’s journey who, after heading French fashion label Paco Rabbane, has opened nationwide stores for his new brand, Indian. And he’s making happy socks! (Pg. 80.)

hank you for your tremendous response to our launch issue of Le CITY deluxe INDIA. As usual, we welcome your opinions and insights on the products you would love to read about and experience in our magazine. For our second issue, the February-March issue of Le CITY deluxe INDIA, we bring to you all that’s haute and happening in India and around the world. From the most stunning fine jewellery cocktail rings, to stylish timepieces that make a glittering statement, to classic shoes that will always be in style, there are certain pleasures in life you just shouldn’t deny yourself ! (Pg. 16.) In the world of art, we bring you the works of renowned international photographers, who have been inspired by the majesty of India. In our dialogue section, a European diplomat throws open the doors of his living room, and reveals his passion for collecting art and memorabilia, while a young entrepreneur tells us what it takes to get to the top of the hospitality industry. In our travel section, we take you to a small island nation in the Caribbean where time has stopped still (pg. 40), and gourmet-wise, we bring you a light spring menu from a suave world-class chef who’s originally from Amritsar. (Pg. 49.)

In fashion, we give you a peek into the loves and passions of an Indian designer who’s making waves abroad. Our fashion shoot takes you on a sartorial trip through the various avatars of a legendary secret agent who is celebrating 50 years on the silver screen. In interiors, we go to a splendid New Delhi farmhouse that shows the inhabitant’s passion for collecting fine silverware, glassware, and other objets d’art. Elsewhere we take you to an unique health spa in the Philippines which tailor-makes organic food menus and massage therapies, the best golf links in Ireland, and the fastest new roadster to hit Indian roads. We also bring you a round-up of the parties that took place in the season, and the personalities that attended them. We would like to thank the gorgeous Chitrangda Singh and her husband pro golfer Jyoti Randhawa, whom we spent a relaxed afternoon with in Gurgaon. The gracious actor proves she’s not only eye candy on camera, but has the calm and stable-mindedness needed to make it big in show biz. And she’s only just beginning to leave her trails in movies. Here’s to a wonderful spring season to all of you! Until April,

Last year saw 50 years of Bond and this year, it’s 100 years of Aston Martin. ‘Quantum of Style’ is our fashionable ode to both these icons. Bond fans will enjoy these pages styled by our celebrity stylist Ashish N Soni, and shot by masterful photographer Tarun Khiwal. (Pg. 70.) US Ambassador to India Nancy Powell and Mr Quraishi (ex-chief election commissioner) tell us why the luxury of taking time and exploring Old Delhi is good for the soul. All you need is a camera! (Pg. 88.) I saw Papa CJ live for the first time last year, and again, a couple of months ago. He’s funny, and we suggest you catch him in action. Read our last page and see why he thinks he’s got some serious competition. All this, and so much more inside. Wishing you all a happy and enjoyable read from all of us at Le CITY deluxe INDIA.

Nikki Duggal Editorial & Art Director nikkiduggal@le-citydeluxe.com

INDIA LENS

Raghu Raiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s India

Presidential Procession, Rajpath, Delhi, 1972

GUILTY PLEA SURES

Voyage dans le temps Dentelle de Monogram, Louis Vuitton; price on request. Handcrafted swan ring, Farah Khan Ali; price on request. Gazelle, Manish Arora for Amrapali; `25,000.

Ambara, Ganjam; price on request. Sortilège, Cartier; price on request.

Baroque pearl ring, Farah Khan Ali; price on request.

Precious Temptation, Chopard; price on request.

Gomitolo Napoli, Damiani; `4.85 lakh.

Emerald and gold ring, The Gem Palace; `7 lakh.

FEB — MAR 2013

Ring 16

This spring, flash your digits in vivid hues. Subtle or flamboyant, each pick from these delicious cocktail rings is sure to make a statement at any soirée.

GUILTY PLEASURES COMPILED BY TREESHA DATTA

Absolut

GUILTY PLEA SURES

Lady in

Red

Red by its very nature is the colour of passion. From berry hues to tangerines, this shade complements every skin tone. This season, enhance your pout with a bouquet of textures that range from matte to sheer glosses, in softening balms, long-stay colour, or easy-to-apply chubby sticks.

Stay Scarlet Double Wear lipstick, Estée Lauder; ``1,735. 1,735.

16 Orange Rocks matte lipstick, Sephora; `800.

Two Ton Tomato Chubby Stick, Clinique; `1,025.

Rose Pure Colour lipstick, Estée Lauder; `1,735.

Excentrique Rouge Allure lipstick, Chanel; `2,100. 2,100.

Pure Red matte lipstick, NYX; ` 530.

FEB — MAR 2013

Rouge in Love lipstick, Lancôme; `1,750.

Aqua Rouge lip gloss, Make Up For Ever; ``2,000. 2,000.

Après Chic lipstick, M.A.C; ``990.

FEB — MAR 2013

GUILTY PLEA SURES

Timeless

BALLY

In 1951, Max Bally paid tribute to a Parisian hotel by christening a pair of shoes created by him, after the establishment. The Scribe shoe (`4.89 lakh) is still regarded as an unique example of precision craftsmanship and comfort. Another Bally creation, the Hellins knee-length boot (`74,300) has also established a reputation for its comfortable design and trendy retro appearance.

Insoles The perfect shoe always defines class, and nothing expresses elegance better than these five designs that have not only survived the test of time, but have established a standard in shoe-making over the years.

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

Louboutin’s raunchier side is evident in these popular designs: the Pigalle Gold (`1.8 lakh) is inspired by his favourite Parisian neighbourhood that is also home to the Moulin Rouge, while the bold design of the Rollerboy Classic Black for men (`68,500) holds a menacing allure for men.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

LOUIS VUITTON This sequinned peeptoe has an intriguing padlock design at the back, inspired by leather accessories made under the Louis Vuitton moniker. “Oh really!” you might say. Well, that is exactly what this collection is called. For an elegant soirée, these peeptoes should be courted by this masculine pair of Louis Vuitton’s aristocratic Humphrey Richelieus (prices on request). Gucci’s sporty Horsebit loafers (worn by stars like Fred Astaire and Clark Gable) have been reinvented for both men and women to mark the 60th anniversary of the equestrian-inspired line. Priced at `30,000, the women’s shoes feature Gucci’s dainty Flora patterns, while male patrons can choose from a fascinating range of colours and fabric.

GUCCI

Ferragamo’s Parigi leather driving loafers (`37,000) combine elements of style with comfort to stay true to the Italian gent’s love for savouring la dolce vita. When paired with their better halves, the pretty Mandarin Carla 85 patent leather bow pumps (`28,700), they complete the outfit and persona of a handsome couple.

FEB — MAR 2013

GUILTY PLEA SURES

Reine De Naples, Breguet; `28.65 lakh.

La D de Dior Snow, Dior; `38 lakh.

FEB — MAR 2013

Alacria Royal, Carl F. Baucher; `44.4 lakh.

Jewelled Star, Zenith; `17.2 lakh.

Agathon Regulator Palais d’Or, Fabergé; `68 lakh.*

High Jewellery Galaxy, Piaget; over `1 crore.*

Temps Moderne, Cartier; `39.5 39.5 lakh.

Cape Cod pm, HermĂ¨s; `8.8 lakh.

They tell time, and dazzle in diamonds. These beautiful jewelled watches from some of the best horologers in the world, make for perfect companions on glamorous evenings as much as they make for perfect gifts.

Happy Sport Medium, Chopard; `12.72 lakh. FEB â&#x20AC;&#x201D; MAR 2013

DIALOGUE

H.E. Gustavo de Arístegui

Spanish Armada The elegant and affable Spanish ambassador to India, a fourthgeneration diplomat and politician, opens the doors of his New Delhi residence on Prithviraj Road, and talks to us about the importance of luxury in today’s world, his career as an envoy, his country’s many specialties, and his jaw-dropping collections. TEXT BY PRIYA KUMARI RANA, BLANCA PERALTA / PHOTOGRAPHED BY HARI NAIR

FEB — MAR 2013

s he stands by an oil portrait of his decorated, uniformed grandfather, who in his 50-year-long diplomatic career served in several countries, H.E. the Spanish Ambassador to India, Gustavo de Arístegui’s impeccable lineage becomes apparent. His father too, served as ambassador to several Latin American countries, until he was killed in action in 1989 in the Middle East, the same year de Arístegui joined the diplomatic service, after studying law. “It was tough for us, but that only gave me more drive and will to serve my country and my countrymen. Moreover, I wanted to be more than just a civil servant, so I went into politics,” says de Arístegui, who’s been posted to Libya and Jordan, and calls himself a “hybrid” professional. In 1996, he was called to become chief of staff of the Ministry of the Interior, and was personally asked by the then Spanish prime minister to run for parliament in 2000 – a 12-year stint. Of Basque heritage, de Arístegui is proud to “work for the good name of Spain around the world”. He recounts how his minister of foreign affairs wanted to send a strong political message to India by sending him – a high-profile politician in his country – and that Spain wanted to boost diplomatic relations with India “in all aspects”. Given the resilience of the Spanish people, the ambassador has no doubt that Spain would come out of its present minor hiccups. And Spain has lots to offer: from vibrant fashion brands like Mango, Zara, Adolfo Dominguez, and even Spanish-origin multinational brands like Loewe, high-quality foods and wines, excellent hotels and resorts, world-class sports (they just won the Handball

World Cup, Spanish players in the NBA, Rafael Nadal in tennis, champions of the football European Championship in 2012), to being one of the most culturally diverse countries in Europe, with unique languages and dialects. “Spanish gastronomy is much more than just paella. Paella is a wonderful universal dish, as is gazpacho, which comes from Andalucia. But we have two of the finest cuisines in the world – Catalan and Basque, where I come from,” says de Arístegui. The ambassador tells us that Basque country, especially his province of

Gipuzkoa (capital Donostia-San Sebastián), has the highest concentration of Michelin stars in the smallest territory in the world. He points to an astonishing fact: a barely 2,000 sq km area with less than 600,000 inhabitants, has four three-star Michelin restaurants and countless one- and two-star Michelin restaurants. De Arístegui reveals that in terms of hospitality, “India has the best hotel hospitality culture in the world, which is unique to the country. This strikes you when you walk through the lobby of an Indian hotel: the way you are received and treated is different from any other hotel in the world”. He would love to work towards merging the two cultures in the sector

of luxury, to bring people together. He welcomes readers of Le CITY deluxe INDIA, and adds that although it’s a competitive world out there, this invariably makes products and people better. The ambassador says that Spain naturally appeals to Indian society, since it inspires sympathy. “The film Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara was extremely important for our image in India. Over 70 million Indians saw it in cinemas, with countless more on DVD. Even the King of Spain has seen the movie!” he says. “A long line of ministersand VIPS are coming to India this year and the next. There are 200 Spanish companies present in India, with the biggest single European investor in India coming from there. Spain is also fascinating in terms of art and antiques.” Which brings us to his impeccably decorated living room, that bears testimony to Gustavo de Arístegui’s passion for art and artefacts. He has been collecting for years, with some pieces passed on to him by his grandfather, but his is a curated selection. “I don’t have it all here,” he says, “You come to a furnished residence, so you only have so many cubic metres to make a selection.” De Arístegui is a fourth-generation carpet collector (some of his 200-year-old antique pieces lie back home in Madrid), with some carpets purchased by his grandfather over a century ago. In terms of going out there and scouring for pieces, he admits he likes to go “where you don’t normally think you are going to find anything special”, and tries to look beyond what meets the eye. “One of my best carpets is in my bedroom here. It was crumpled up and full of dirt in a very humble shop in Amman, Jordan. The vendor thought it was a Qashqai. So I paid him 700 dinars for

Opposite page: H.E. Gustavo de Arístegui cuts an intellectual figure as he sits in front of a Spanish painting, in his Prithviraj Road residence in New Delhi.

DIALOGUE

FEB — MAR 2013

the carpet, and after washing and repairing it, I discovered that it was a valuable Baku, the only one of its kind that I have ever seen in real life, besides in books,” he says. A stunning array of Coptic crosses is displayed on one wall, some ensconced in glass cases. “I started collecting these 20 years ago. They’re all antique, from Ethiopia, and one from Egypt. Another glass case houses gigantic rings in silver, turquoise, and coral, made by the Pashtun tribes of Afghanistan. “I bought some locally in Peshawar, and others are from antique dealers.” Three religious icons on the wall next to the crosses come from Jerusalem, with the oldest dating back to the early 18th century. In a display by his grandfather’s oil portrait, sits a box of colourful medallions. “Those are my decorations, honours that some countries, and my own, have bestowed on me. A particularly special one is one from Socialist prime minister Rodriguez Zapetero, whose ideology was different to my own,” says de ArÍstegui. He has also recieved the Great Cross of Civil Merit, recently awarded to Indian minister Farooq Abdullah by the Spanish government. “My father used to say that decorations were the cheapest and best inventions of mankind. You can keep someone happy at no real cost to the taxpayer,” he says.

The large ante-room is lined with books, another passion of the ambassador’s (he owns 7,500 tomes and 3,500 CDs). De Arístegui has written books on Islam and terrorism, in Spanish, and has been a columnist and professor in his native country. A large glass table displays wispy iron statuettes from Nigeria, Cameroon, Mali, and Burkina Faso. “Back home I have a museum-grade, prehistoric ceramic collection from the Middle East and one from Latin America. I’ve told my children that once I pass away, I will leave these two collections to two Spanish museums on the condition that they be shown to the public – the Spanish museum of archaeology and the Museum of The Americas in Madrid,” he says. He is also a patron of Spanish art (and Indian artists more recently), with paintings from the city of Alicante and two from his grandfather’s collection (saved while the latter was on a posting to Norway, as his home in Ilion was ransacked during the Spanish Civil War). A striking landscape is by a contemporary of Van Gogh, painted in 1897, and an early 19th -century Flemish painting by Tindemans shows the baptism of Emperor Charles V, who was the King of Spain and Emperor of the German empire. “I had this restored almost to a perfect original state, and am very proud of it,” he says.

He’s also an avid collector of watches and pens, and owns 19 timepieces. “Whatever my modest means allow me,” he laughs. “I have a quartz watch that was given to me as a gift by King Abdullah II of Jordan, a dear friend.” The ambassador also loves fountain pens, and has 30 pieces. “I change my pen every day. The one I am using today is a Montegrappa, a limited edition, 24th of 500. I also have the Bird of Paradise which is one of the best pens ever made. Then I have the American Constitution made by Visconti, with the constitution written on the pen itself.” The tall, sartorially savvy diplomat confesses that when it comes to suits, it’s custom-made all the way. “An extraordinary tailor in Madrid, Carlos Herrero, stitches my suits,” says de Arístegui. His shirts are also custom-made in Madrid. Most of his ties are Spanish-made, and his shoes are by Crockett & Jones and Edward Green, along with Spanish brand Carmina, “as good as any top British make”. Today he’s wearing cufflinks gifted to him by his motherin-law, and made by a jeweller in Casablanca. He likes to mix it up, from fun links in the shape of a screw or a car, to custom-made pieces. “My wife (who hails from Morocco) is even fussier! She is very elegant, and fashion-savvy,” he says. “She looks like an angel, really.”

Clockwise from left: The ambassador stands by a portrait of his grandfather, himself a Spanish envoy; A Pashtun tribal ring collection; De Arístegui's precious medallion collection.

CMY

FEB — MAR 2013

DIALOGUE

ANKUR BHATIA

The Wunderkind

This unassuming computer geek-turned-luxury hotelier believes in Sai Baba and relies on his spouse Smriti for guidance. He’s also a man with a vision, who wants to transform the luxury hotel biz in India. INTERVIEW BY SURUCHI DUGGAL, NIKKI DUGGAL / PHOTOGRAPHED BY HARI NAIR

he award-winning entrepreneur who’s brought to the country international brands like Porsche Design and Bally, as well as India’s first ice-skating rink and two-wheeled transporter Segway, is poised at the brink of hospitality success with the advent of luxury hotel chain Dusit, that’s launching its first properties, the Dusit Devarana and the Dusit D2 in Delhi. We caught up with him at the Dusit Devarana in New Delhi. You’ve received several awards, and recently bagged the Superbrands 2011-2012 award. What does it take to be a great entrepreneur? Ankur Bhatia: Hard work, faith, and patience are key to achieve anything in life. It’s encouraging to get accolades, and when you are working and competing in an environment like India’s, these are important from a PR standpoint. Most of our business is B2B. So it helped to win this B2B award last year. Did you have a mentor along the way? AB: All business leaders are your mentors. Even if you don’t interact with them or know them personally, you can learn from their journeys. Do you also read biographies? AB: I don't have the time or the patience. (Laughs). The only book that I read is Sri Sai Satcharita, since I am a believer in Sai Baba, and this motivates me.

How did the entrepreneurial bug bite you? AB: When I was in the 10th grade. My first project was to conduct a computer training workshop for Air France (my aunt knew the general manager there) – since PCs had just come into being. Born and brought up in an aviation family, I started working in a company that was being set up, in 1992, when I was barely 19. I have never worked outside the family business, which has now become more professional; it’s expanded, and we all do our own thing. My brother has his own business. I was clear that he does his thing and I do mine, otherwise there could be conflict.

“For me, luxury is not bling and gold. It has different meanings for different people. For seasoned travellers, it’s more experiential.” Where did you go to university? AB: I went to King’s College, London, and studied software engineering. Software was my passion, combined with aviation. Management was also part of my course. I would love to fly, but don’t know how to, besides on the simulator. Smriti Bhatia: That’s definitely part of his wish list...

How much of what you learnt at university, technology-wise, is a part of your business? AB: My learning was not done at university, it was done doing things. For example, my 12thgrade project was to set up a travel reservation system, and I eventually set up Amadeus India in 1994 as a travel technology company. I got the idea for this when I worked with the Washington Mayfair Hotel in London, doing their design and PR; they used the Amadeus system. It’s a global company and they didn’t want to come to India, but I persuaded them. I started with a group of 10 people, in April 1992. Today Amadeus India processes 26-27 million bookings. So is your focus on the retail side, now that you’ve brought in these big brands? AB: Not at all. The retail business just happened: one of the hotels we are constructing features real estate for which I wanted to get in some anchor brands. It won’t be a long-term push. Hospitality and entertainment, yes; we will continue to expand into hotels, and multiple ice rinks. We are looking at one in the Great Mall of India in Noida, and one in Delhi as well; then, in Mumbai and other cities. How did iSKATE come about? AB: My son loved to skate in London. One day he asked me why we couldn’t skate in India. So I said, why not? We did our research on energy costs and so on, and iSKATE was born. It’s our own concept and brand, not a joint venture. How has been the response so far? AB: iSKATE completed a year on 18 December 2012, and since then has had 230,000-240,000

Opposite page: Entrepreneur Ankur Bhatia stands at the threshold of establishing a benchmark in the luxury hospitality business.

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Any substantial lessons learnt along the way? AB: Everyday is a learning process. If learning stops, you cease to grow. You can even learn from your children, but you need to learn from

your surroundings and how you can apply this to your work life.

DIALOGUE

AB: My wife helps me in every building project...she essentially built the Dusit Devarana... SB: I had my own construction company...but I am only concentrating on consultancy with this project for now. visitors. Initially, I thought my son would be the only one skating. But in Delhi, with 23 million people, if 2-3 million people can afford a movie, then it becomes a 12-month sport for them. Your wife Smriti is an accomplished architect. Has she helped you in your projects? AB: She helps me in every building project, in terms of guiding me and telling me not to oversplurge. She draws the line in terms of design as well. She essentially built the Dusit Devarana. Even the structural work of the ice rink was done by her. SB: I had my own construction company, but because of the kids, I am only concentrating on consultancy, and on this particular project for now.

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What does luxury mean to you? AB: To me, luxury is not bling and gold. It has different meanings for different people; for seasoned travellers, it’s more experiential. When you talk about an experience at a luxury hotel, every corner and level of service has to be perfect. Everything is in the details.

What is your luxury mandate for India? AB: For us, it’s hospitality. The Dusit was an

international brand, with whom we wanted an exclusive partnership. You have the Dusit Thani, which is almost the same as the Oberoi in terms of luxury; but we wanted to aim higher, so we created a sub-brand called the Devrana. The one in New Delhi is the first Dusit Devarana anywhere in the world, and it will create brand standards that other hotels will follow. So I would not call this a mandate, but more of a positioning. When we thought of getting into hospitality, we thought of creating a brand. Creating a Bird brand is impossible; Other brands have been around for 50 years, so if you ask me, building brands is not an easy task. Our aim is to set up five hotels here – two in Delhi, one in Goa, one in Rishikesh, and one in Jaipur. Tell us more about this property. What sets the Dusit Devarana apart? AB: The property used to be a farmhouse. We wanted something completely different, so we shortlisted three or four architects. The architect we chose, Lek Bunnag, had done the Trident in Gurgaon – an inspiring, beautiful property. We gave him specific instructions not to harm any of the decades-old trees there, but instead

to build around them. There are 50 rooms, but we are planning to build up to 70. Nobody in New Delhi has made 50 rooms on eight acres of land. And our location is very good – just between Delhi and Gurgaon, well connected to the airport. We also have two restaurants, a spa, a bar, a banquet hall, and a conference room. The restaurant is unique in terms of its service, and will have three cuisines – Indian, Asian, and European. We have tied up with a Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant called Kai from London, and will hopefully be opening really soon now. Tell us about Jaipur and the other properties… AB: The Jaipur property is set on 25 acres, with 130 rooms, and 15 villas, It will be coming up next year. The Dusit D2 is in New Delhi near the Aerocity, and will be ready by July. The 220 keys and mock rooms are already running. There are about 12 new hotels coming up in the area, but our hotel will be different, since it’s a young design hotel. We have a cinema hall and a couple of nice restaurants, with retail an integral part of the Dusit D2. By the end of next year, we will have three operating hotels, including one in London.

Top: The power couple, Smriti and Ankur Bhatia, is perfectly matched: her architectural smarts to his software genius.

How involved do you both get with a property? AB: We are involved with everything. It comes from a passion of creating something. We don’t have any bling element in our hotels; yet they have been expensive to build. Our room rates start from $450 a night, and go up to $600. Where do you both like to travel? AB: Our last trip was to the Maldives. The Dusit is opening a new property there; the hospitality is exceptional, well worth a visit. My son and I went scuba-diving there. SB: Maldives is a whole different experience; you feel like you are living in water. AB: With business in London, Dubai, Thailand, I travel 10 times a year. Last year we went to Istanbul, and Greece the year before last.

You have a growing collection of vintage cars. Can you tell us more? AB: My nanaji had an old, 1937 Austin Martin, which he would never let us touch. When he passed away, we got the car restored, and this triggered a passion to acquire antique cars, and now we have eight or nine, including an Austin, a Chevrolet Impala, a Ford Jeep, a MercedesBenz Ponton, and a Volkswagen Beetle under restoration. I also have the Singer LeMans, which is the only car of its kind in India; it’s a race car. I only take my cars out during rallies. And what is your current mode of transport? AB: It starts from a Santro, which I love very much, and goes up to a BMW 7 Series. To me, a car takes me from one place to another. SB: Our most recent acquisition is a Ferrari, which our daughter is scared of. Can you describe a typical work day? AB: If my trainer comes in, the day starts with a workout session at 7am. I see off the kids

at school, and leave home by 9am, go to the temple, then the office at Vatika Triangle. From there I get to my hotel sites. I have an office in Connaught Place too, so I go there if needed, and I’m back home by 8pm. Breakfast is alone, but dinner is with the family. We hear you are a huge film buff ? AB: I can recite the dialogue from any movie, from Sholay to Chupke Chupke. The last movie I saw, Jab Tak Hain Jaan, was one of my all-time favourites. Yash Chopra’s films are timeless. I also like Jaane Bhi Do Yaaron, and Chasme Badoor, which I can watch over and over, just like Angoor. I liked the new Bond film as well. I have a server at home with 15,000 movies, with access to every room. Do you envision a future in film production? AB: I would love to, but I don’t have the time. Making a hotel or creating a film is similar. The only thing is that here, I am not shooting a frame that is controlled. It’s difficult to achieve that level of perfection, which I don’t think even the Oberoi has done, in terms of design. This hotel that we are opening right now, will probably take one more year to perfect.

Top: A rendering of a bedroom at the Dusit Devarana property in New Delhi. Bottom: An overview of the Dusit Thani Hua Hin property, Thailand (left); A rendering of a bar at the Dusit Devarana.

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Which is your favourite restaurant in Delhi? AB: The other day we wanted to go out for food, and we could not think of a single restaurant. We went to China Kitchen, and it seems standards have fallen down. In London, one of our favourites is Kai. We are both vegetarian by choice, though Smriti has fish. The kids eat everything, even steak. I quit meat purely for health reasons. There is more fat in

meat than vegetables unless you eat aloo puri every night. (Laughs.) I like to run marathons; my goal is to do the full marathon in London.

ART

India Calling The country’s myriad attractions have drawn in many a lensperson. Le CITY deluxe INDIA showcases stunning images by four renowned international photographers who have exhibited with Bengaluru-based art gallery Tasveer. INTRODUCTION BY ABHISHEK PODDAR

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he work shown here comes from four very different projects by some of the leading international photographers who have worked in India, all with very different perspectives. The exhibitions from which they come have been some of my favourites at Tasveer, not only for the sheer brilliance of the images, but also because of the great personalities behind the lens and hearing about their own very individual relationships with India – this comes across wonderfully in their work. Derry Moore, for example, has been frequently coming here since the mid 1970s. He likes to seek out people and places that belong to a bygone age (which are fast

disappearing). He builds on his experience photographing European aristocracy and their homes, and uses this highly trained vision when turning his eye on India, and its fading splendours, to create enduring and sincere images. His photographs often focus on what he calls the hybridization of Western and Eastern styles in Indian aesthetics, and his deep sensitivity towards both is what makes his photographs so unique. It is also the mix of styles and artistic principles in Norman Parkinson’s photographs that makes them stand out so much – European women modelling the fashions of the ’50s in places as diverse as Dal lake, the Red Fort, Mahabalipuram, and the Taj Mahal. An

unlikely mix, but Parkinson makes it work – both humorously and visually. As possibly the most influential fashion photographer of the 20th century, we did this show to expose Parkinson’s work to a largely unacquainted audience in India. His series shot here (which he did for British Vogue in the winter of 1956) is filled with exuberance and wit. It speaks volumes of the photographer’s unique relationship with the country, and how he used stunning locations here in an incredibly unique and daring way. Whereas Parkinson and Moore perhaps show the classic and modern side of international photography in India, we’re also trying to show how leading contemporary

Red Sangat (triptych), 2011. © Maïmouna Guerresi, courtesy Tasveer/Tod’s.

Yellow Light Signs no. 2, 2011. © Maïmouna Guerresi, courtesy Tasveer/Tod’s.

Maïmouna Patrizia Guerresi is an Italian-Muslim photographer, sculptor, and video and installation artist. Her work delves on the relationship between women and society, especially in those countries where their roles are marginalized. Guerresi has exhibited widely in Europe, America, and more recently, the Middle East. She recently held her first solo show at Tasveer, Bengaluru, ‘Inner Space’.

she celebrates the rich visual culture, the foundation myths, and stories of northern India, focusing on Rajasthan and using sacred as well as secular sites to consider caste, femininity, and its relationship to the animal world – again by placing various animals and contrasting them in glorious, colourful interior settings. Maïmouna Guerresi’s work in India builds upon her earlier ‘Giants’ series, which are portraits made in northern Africa where she had gone to look for and celebrate Sufi spirituality. For her work in India, she builds on this theme as well as her unique style, and this time uses Indian models and religious visual motifs, props, colours, and costumes to create striking, large-format portraits.

Rather than merely showing the work of famous international photographers who have worked in India (of which there are many), what we try and do is to show projects where the artists’ relationship with India has created bodies of work which are unique; where an individual style and artistry has gone towards creating something intellectually interesting, visually stunning, and contextually relevant; where the set of circumstances that India throws up has enhanced and challenged the ideas in their practice. In such cases, as in the work shown here, the photographers have often ended up producing some of the most critically acclaimed and enduring work of their careers.

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photographers are making exciting work here. Again, by building on their themes, concepts and ideas for which they’re famous in the West, and then re-imagining them in an Indian context. Today, the art world is truly global and the mixture of styles and genres that this allows for, makes right now a very exciting time for photography – where traditional boundaries of country-specific work no longer apply. Two such examples of this are Karen Knorr and Maïmouna Guerresi, both of whom I’ve had the pleasure of working with to put together their first shows in India. Knorr’s work here builds on her ‘Fables’ series where she placed animals in opulent European palaces and chateaus. In her photographs taken in India,

MAÏMOUNA PATRIZIA GUERRESI

ART

The Queen’s Room, Zanana, Udaipur City Palace, 2010. © Karen Knorr, courtesy Tasveer.

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KAREN KNORR

The American Karen Knorr was born in Frankfurt am Main, Germany, and raised in San Juan Puerto Rico in the 1960s. She was educated in Paris and London. Knorr has taught and lectured internationally at institutions such as The University of Westminster, Goldsmiths College, Harvard and The Art Institute of Chicago. She is a professor of photography at the University for the Creative Arts at Farnham, Surrey, UK. The Queen’s Room, Zanana, Udaipur City Palace, 2010. © Karen Knorr, courtesy Tasveer.

NORMAN PARKINSON Celebrated British photographer Sir Norman Parkinson was born in London, and educated at Westminster school. He began his career in 1931 as an apprentice to the court photographers Spaight and Sons Ltd. In 1934, he opened his own studio, along with Norman Kibblewhite. From 1935-40 he worked for Harper’s Bazaar and The Bystander magazines. During the Second World War he served as a reconnaissance photographer. From 1945-60 he was employed as a portrait and fashion photographer for Vogue. In 1963 he moved to Tobago, and from 1964 until his death in 1990 he worked as a freelance photographer. The pale cool of Kashmir, India, Vogue, 1956. © Norman Parkinson Ltd./Tasveer.

DERRY MOORE Derry Moore, the 12th Earl of Drogheda, is a Briton known for interior and portrait images of European aristocracy, including Queen Elizabeth II and the late Queen Mother. After schooling at Eton, he studied fine art at Oskar Kokoschka’s School of Seeing in Salzburg, Austria, and later took up photography under the tutelage of British photographer Bill Brandt. Moore has published over a dozen books, including Evening Ragas, from where these photographs taken in India were originally seen. His work has been featured in collections such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, and the National Portrait Gallery, UK, among others. Dining Room, Gujurat, 1982. © Derry Moore, courtesy Tasveer/Damiani.

Opulent Oases FEB — MAR 2013

The unrestrained beauty of the Thar desert beckons the international jet-set and city-slickers looking to bask in the quiet luxury of its best hotels. Travel entrepreneur Arjun Sharma gives his pick of Rajasthan’s top five über-luxe resorts.

TEXT BY AASHMITA NAYAR \ PHOTO COURTESY: THE SERAI. JAISALMER

PA S S P O R T

The Serai, Jaisalmer

emphasizes the luxury factor is the intense focus on isolation: the nearest airport lies 290 kilometres away in the city of Jodhpur, while private chartered flights are closer, landing 60km away at the Jaisalmer airport. A true-blue desert experience if there ever was one, it is not for the noise-loving city-goer. www.sujanluxury.com; (011) 4617 2700

Top: The Serai's Royal Suite that come with its own pool; Bottom: A guest surveys a camel safari (left); The interiors of a luxury tent (right).

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or those who want to savour a taste of the stark wilderness of the Thar desert, The Serai, Jaisalmer’s luxury camps are the perfect elixir, without compromising on a luxurious experience: 21 large canvas tents cover 30 acres of a 100-acre estate. You can book tailor-made excursions

on camel safaris, and later dine al fresco in the stunning environs surrounded by nothing but still wilderness, while enjoying a cigar and a choice selection from their well-stocked bar. The Serai’s Royal Suite, priced at `57,500 comes with its own outdoor pool, lounge tents, and a private spa. The camp also boasts a pool as well as a spa created by Raison d’Être that uses local herbs and spices. Perhaps what

PA S S P O R T The Leela Palace, Udaipur

PHOTO COURTESY: THE LEELA PALACE, UDAIPUR

here are few things more therapeutic than enjoying a view of the sun set over the iridescent waters of Lake Pichola as they lap against the Aravalli mountains. This is even more enjoyable when seen from the terrace of The Leela Palace, Udaipur, over a steaming dish of laal maas. A beautiful amalgamation of the modern and the traditional, this hotel has hosted distinguished guests such as the King and Queen of Bhutan, in addition to winning a host of awards and accolades. It has 72 rooms and eight lavish suites (of which the 3,585 sq ft Maharaja suite is priced at `2.5 lakh) that reflect contemporary elegance, and lies 28 kilometres away from the airport. Designed by architect Bill Hensley, The Leela Palace, Udaipur offers guests a chance to experience luxurious treatments at their magnificent, tented spa in collaboration with ESPA. Of their vast cuisine, the Squid Ink Fetuccini is a must-have dish, if you’re in the mood to experiment with your palate.

PHOTO COURTESY: MIHIR GARH, JODHPUR

www.theleela.com; (0294) 670 1234

Mihir Garh, Jodhpur

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t is fairly common for guests to blink in disbelief after laying eyes on Mihir Garh for the first time. The desert winds appear to whip up a mirage from the golden sands in the shape of a simple, albeit beautiful yellow fort that appears to be made completely out of sand in the middle of absolutely nowhere. In actuality, the splendid nine-suite boutique hotel, located a few kilometres away from its flagship hotel Rohet Garh and 55 kilometres south-west of Jodhpur city, is made

out of cement, and covered with mud. Each suite (spread over 1,700 sq feet) houses its own private Jacuzzi and plunge pools, along with private terraces and courtyards. They also feature soft furnishings sourced from Jodhpur, and fireplaces that are handmade by local women from Khandi and Haji villages. The intimate setting of the location and private quarters have attracted a host of celebrity guests, such as British Prime Minister David Cameron and Robert Plant of Led Zeppelin fame. The

owner, a keen rider, has opened a stable of Marwari horses, for people to ride under the Equestrian Programme. The delectable cuisine is best enjoyed during the Royal Picnics or by the lake. After a vigorous day, the luxurious spa therapies at the Tulsi Spa are a welcome treat. Unruffled, wild, deserted, and undoubtably beautiful, Mihir Garh is certainly not your regular city hotel. www.mihirgarh.com; (0291) 243 1161

Top: A grand view of the swimming pool of The Leela Palace, Udaipur; Bottom clockwise: The entrance to the fortress of Mihir Garh; An aerial view of the property; A private seating area in a suite.

PHOTO COURTESY: SHAHPURA HOUSE, JAIPUR

Shahpura House, Jaipur

ucked away in a quiet, posh colony of Jaipur city, Shahpura House is certainly a distinguished member of the family of boutique hotels in Rajasthan, but flaunts a more traditional character than most of its counterparts. Rich Shekhawati frescoes adorn the walls

of this elegant property, with its scalloped arches and windows. The Shahpura Suite, the hotel’s most exclusive suite, which is replete with elegant marble bathrooms and private verandahs, has several portraits of the present owner’s royal ancestors displayed on the walls. Shahpura House also celebrates festivals like Holi, Diwali, and Teej (a Rajasthani spring fest), with the pomp and splendour of a royal

household. In this modern-day haveli, it’s easy to lose yourself in another era and imagine the epoch of the Shri Rao Saheb and Rani Saheb of Shahpura come alive as you sip a refreshing pomegranate cocktail on the Rooftop Restaurant. www.shahpurahouse.com; (0141) 408 9100 / 220 3069

Suryagarh, Jaisalmer

PHOTO COURTESY: SURYAGARH, JAISALMER

n the outskirts of the city of Jaisalmer, approximately 18 kilometres from the airport, lies Suryagarh, amidst unembellished sands. A picture of tranquility, the small castle boasts an outstanding structure, intricate stonework, and earthy cuisine (try the dal vati chorma), a sumptuous, lip-smacking affair. After a hearty meal, one can lounge in ‘Tash’ – the cards and billiards room. For the more adventurous, there is a plethora of activities to choose from: participate in mock medieval duels; explore the ruins of nearby Kuldhara fort; tour undulating dunes or attend tie-dying classes. A memorable experience is sitting on soft gaddas watching the sky shudder with stars, to the strains of rural music. A stay in the exclusive Jaisalmer Suite (priced at `75,000),completes the surreal experience. Perhaps the best way to sum up the Suryagarh experience is by relishing the fact that the best things come in small packages. www.suryagarh.com; (0299) 226 9269

Top: The front façade of Shahpura House, Jaipur (left); A peak inside the Royal Suite (right); Bottom: An elegant courtyard, which is surrounded by the walls of the Suryagarh castle

PA S S P O R T

VivaCUBA

Probably one of the last surviving bastions of Communism today, the Caribbean island nation is an anachronism. Steeped in its pre-revolutionary â&#x20AC;&#x2122;60s culture, it embraces today's world with a vibrant palette of vistas, art, architecture, music, and food, nectar to the world-weary traveller. Stefan Kamboj samples its many delights

PHOTOGRAPHED BY STEFAN KAMBOJ

ndeniably the most vibrant island in the Caribbean – culturally, historically, and politically – Cuba assaults your senses the minute you step onto the hot tarmac at José Martí International Airport (located at an amazing 145 kilometres south of the Florida Keys in the United States), and completely consumes you until it’s time to leave. In the capital city of Havana’s Cadillac-teeming streets, revolutionary propaganda is giving way to art galleries, and impeccably restored colonial mansions are fast morphing into boutique hotels. From the unspoilt beaches of Varadero in the north to the gleaming Caribbean sea in the south, Cuba is one of the last few as-yetundiscovered, not-yet-globalized spots left in the world. But it won’t be for long.

rise. Less than 160 kilometres south of Miami, Havana was once the playground of the rich, and it’s only a matter of time until it will be so again. For now though, it remains the antithesis of Miami, and this is the best time to plan a visit. A grand old dame called Habana On my second visit to Cuba, I was suffused with enough energy to spend a few weeks in Havana and travel around the island. Getting there via Europe has never been easier, with daily flights through Paris, Amsterdam, and Madrid. Buy your visa on departure and your passport won’t be stamped. I would recommend booking a seat on Virgin’s Upper Class service from London (priced at `2 lakh approximately) – if only to sip a mean mojito at the onboard bar and get into the spirit of things to come just before touchdown. Once there, after negotiating a reasonable fare with the rather talkative driver of a shiny 1950s Buick beauty, we rolled into the city to some throbbing reggaeton busting out of the car’s new speakers. I had rented a rooftop apartment in the gritty Centro Habana –

Opposite page: The Capitalio in Havana, the old seat of parliament modelled after the U.S. Capitol, now a museum; Top: The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, the National Museum of Fine Arts, Havana.

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Long live the Revolution? Unabashedly stuck in a post-revolutionary, pre-liberalization time warp, Cuba, to the first-time visitor feels like a trip back in time, like stepping into a well-styled Wes Anderson film set. Indian travellers will notice several idiosyncratic similarities to pre-1990 India,

a nostalgic reminder of those simpler times. Cuba is still very much Castro country. Having held on to power for over five decades, Fidel finally relinquished the presidency to his more pragmatic brother Raúl a few years ago. Slowly but surely, the banana-leaf curtain is being lifted up. Tourism is perhaps the first industry to benefit from the regime’s new openness. Habana Vieja or the old city (a UNESCO World Heritage site now being magnificently restored) is full of beautiful hotels run by Spanish hotel operators, harking back to a bygone era. In the neighbourhood of Vedado, grand old mansions are now doubling up as paladars, restaurants licenced to operate in private homes. Havana is surprisingly full of American tourists, visiting by the planeload on ‘goodwill’ tours – thanks to the Obama administration’s quiet policy of détente towards the island. The embargo is still very much in place, but Cuba is moving on in its own revolutionary pace – somewhat open for business. Europeans, South Americans, and the Chinese are thriving, and the number of tourists is steadily on the

PA S S P O R T

Lov e

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AT FIRST SMOKE

Sir Winston Churchill once said that “smoking cigars is like falling in love. First, you are attracted by its shape; you stay for its flavour, and remember never, never to let the flame go out!” And nothing is going to douse that flame in Cuba, so be ready to indulge. Pick up cigars from any of the licenced stores around Havana or in any luxury hotel, and light up. Cigars are luxury goods, even in Cuba, so don’t ever buy them off the street from peddlers. A visit to a cigar factory in Havana will enlighten you on the process of producing a fine cigarro, each one handmade. I’d enjoy a freshly rolled Romeo y Julieta or Hoyo de Monterrey at one of the rooftop bars in Havana Vieja, watching the city in action below; or gazing at the Malecon and the sea from the gardens of the Nacional Hotel, thinking about all the historic events that transpired just feet away. I even managed to sneak a special one in the garden of Hemingway’s villa – a fitting tribute to the great ‘Papa’.

known as a ‘casa particular’, one of the few ways entrepreneurial Habaneros can easily earn tourist money. There are many private rooms, sea-front apartments and even mansions available to rent by the night. The ultimate in luxury are villas like the Casa Cristi ($300 a night; +53 7 203 1634) in the tony district of Miramar, with their numerous bedrooms, vast living and dining spaces, a private pool, and lush grounds. If you’d prefer the simple luxury of hotel service, choose between the architecturally gorgeous Saratoga (www.hotel-saratoga. com) with its rooftop pool overlooking the Capitolio, the beautiful and very colonial Sevilla (www.hotelsevilla-cuba.com), or other boutique options amongst the hotchpotch splendour of Habana Vieja. For the literature buff in you, there’s the Ambos Mundos, where Hemingway famously penned For Whom The Bell Tolls during his seven-year stay on the island in the 1930s – his room is still preserved for guests to view. Or you can experience the magnificence of the grand old dame of Havana – the Nacional in Vedado – which housed Fidel Castro and rebel leader Che Guevara’s defence headquarters during the Cuban missile crisis, and where famed musician and trova guitarist Compay Segundo and his band, the Buena Vista Social Club once used to perform. I like to enjoy my sunset cocktail with a fat cigar while listening to the bolero band at the Nacional’s La Terraza bar that overlooks vast, peacock-strewn grounds, and beyond, the Malecón, the city’s sea wall. Until recently, Cuba was not exactly known for its cuisine, but rather for its lack

thereof. New players are now transforming the once drab gastronomical scene in Havana, with new restaurants opening or old ones being refurbished with every passing month. As a measure of how far things have come, Havana’s first Indian restaurant opened in 2011 – understandably named Bollywood, for Cubans’ love for Indian cinema (Bollywood films have always been and remain regular features on Cuban television). My favourites: Doña Eutimia in Habana Vieja (+53 7 861 1332), is an impeccable, cosy restaurant that serves up delicious traditional Creole food, the national cuisine that’s a blend of Spanish and African influences. Don’t miss their excellent frozen mojitos, and their staple of rice and black beans is so reminiscent of rajma chawal. San Cristóbal in Centro Habana, housed in a charming old townhouse overflowing with colonial-era antiques and religious artefacts, is the place to spend a surreally beautiful evening. Le Chansonnier (+53 7 832 1576), a gorgeous paladar located in a Vedado mansion, is a chic hangout that reopened in 2011. Its hip cocktail bar, has handwritten menus and serves haute cuisine. There are candlelit tables on the terrace for those wanting a romantic night out. We love to party Come nightfall, and Cubans don’t need many reasons to party – just a few strains of music and there’ll be no standing around, only dancing. And it’s very infectious. Dance the night away to some of the world’s hottest salsa or more modern reggaeton, a Caribbean blend of hip hop, reggae and house styles. There’s excellent live music everywhere, and the many dance schools around

Top: Habana Vieja, the old city, plays host to a plethora of luxury hotels; Left: Hand-rolled cigars at a local cigar factory, are a national specialty.

cabaret shows – choosing between the bestknown Tropicana or Parisien. If it’s classical dance you’re after, don’t miss a performance of the world-famous Cuban National Ballet at the beautiful Gran Teatro de la Habana either. When you’re done nursing those ruminduced hangovers, head over to the many well-kept museums around town, including the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes to view Cuba’s national art collection; the Museo de Artes Decorativas for a glimpse into luxurious aristocratic lifestyles; the Museo de la Revolución for a bit of historic propaganda (housed rather ironically in Batista’s old palace

which was originally decorated by Tiffany’s); and the Museo Hemingway to visit the writer’s well-preserved villa where he wrote many of his other novels. Besides museums, don’t miss the Plaza de la Revolución for a photo-‐ op, where, until a few years ago, Castro used to belt out his long, anti-‐ capitalist speeches; the Partagás cigar factory to see how those very special smokes are made; the nightly canon-firing ceremony at the citadel across the bay for excellent views of the city, and a peek into Che’s post-revolution offices from where he planned other Latin-American struggles. Rent an old Caddy or Buick and be

Clockwise from top left: Courtyard in a restored mansion, Habana Vieja; Street art from JR's Wrinkles of the City project; An image of José Martí; Revolutionary propoganda, Havana; A graphic art exhibition in Haban Veija; An outdoor restaurant, with the old cathedral in the background.

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town will help slap you into shape if you really want to get into the swing of things. Check out the notorious but pulsating Casa de la Música Miramar (+53 7 204 0447) , as well as the grand 1830 for salsa; Casa del Tango (+53 7 863 0097) for some die-hard dancing; and the Palacio de la Rumba for the traditional sounds of rumba, timba and guanguancó. A wave of new bars and clubs around town pump out reggaeton through the night, and there’s nightly live music in the many bars around Calle Obispo in Habana Vieja. No visit to Havana would be complete without a night out at one of its ‘over-the-top’

Stefan's Cuba MUST-HAVES:

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Clothes: Wear light linen for warm days, and carry a pashmina shawl to wrap over something sexy for cooler nights. Accessories: Sunscreen (SPF 50), sunglasses (Persols), and a hat (Stetson). Don’t forget your Jungle Formula mosquito repellant. Gadgets: A great camera, iPod, and Kindle. iPhone App: ‘Havana Good Time’ by American writer and long-time Cuba resident Connor Gory is regularly updated with info on new restaurants and bars, exhibitions, and concerts. Bag/carryall: A Tumi holdall. Best lounge bar: The Terraza at the Nacional Hotel. Preferred wine: Anything Chilean, easily available and from the neighbourhood! Secret gourmet bistro: Doña Eutimia, Habana Vieja, open from 12noon to 1am. Most scenic spot: La Cabaña fort, across the bay from Habana Vieja. Sexiest dance: You have to try salsa. Most melodious song: Guantanamera (‘Woman from Guantánamo’) – it’s almost the national anthem! Prettiest souvenir: Artworks by local artists. Favourite local phrase: Soy Indio (‘I am Indian’) – you'll unleash a flurry of questions! Or say Que bola?, which means, ‘What’s up?’ Nearest medical facility: Havana Hospital (www.havanahospital.com), that caters exclusively to foreigners.

driven 20 minutes east of Havana to the Playas del Este, the city’s own stretch of white, sandy beaches for a day spent relaxing in the sun, and people-watching. The city’s architecture is a marvel in itself. Walk around its neighbourhoods with a camera, and it’s hard to stop clicking pictures. The art scene, again one of the few ways for locals to legitimately earn big money, is varied – a mix of revolutionary, philosophical, avant-garde influences but rooted in Afro-Spanish culture. From artists peddling their works along streets such as Paseo del Prado, to swanky new art galleries, there’s plenty of avant-garde works to choose from. Many European galleries are buying up inexpensive local art to sell at considerable margins back home. Most of the better galleries are around the Habana Vieja; their exploration and discovery is half the pleasure. My newfound love for silkscreen prints of stunning graphic Cuban cinema posters led me on a chase around town, searching through galleries and old bookstores to build up a sizeable collection. There’s plenty of fascinating urban street art around the city as well. In Castro’s penchant for plastering every available inch of wall space with revolutionary slogans and propaganda lies Havana’s original urban art. One of the country’s more eccentric artists, Salvador Gonzáles

Escalona, has converted an entire city block in Centro Habana into a trippy Afro-Cuban inspired series of works. The street is known as the Callejón de Hamel and there’s a very Caribbean street party vibe with music and dancing there on Sundays, with other vetted artists selling their works as well. The French photographer and artist, JR of Rio de Janeiro’s favelas fame, along with José Parlá, has created a project entitled Wrinkles of the City in Havana; installing giant prints of the city’s older and more disenfranchized citizens on entire buildings. The poignant faces make for striking and thoughtprovoking viewing at these times of change. Trinidad, off the beaten track If you have the time and inclination to venture out of Havana, a two-hour drive eastwards gets you to the famous beaches of Varadero, probably the most obvious place to go. Too full of package tourists for my taste, I instead preferred to head further out to the charming little colonial town of Trinidad in the Sancti Spiritus province, and its Caribbean beaches, the Playa Ancon. Planning to stay for just two days, I ended up spending an entire week there. Spend your day lazing along miles of endless unspoilt beaches, diving amongst wrecks from the 1898 Spanish-American War, or hiking to nearby waterfalls and horse riding to old

sugar plantations. Finish with a picture-perfect Caribbean sunset and head back into town for some incredible live salsa on the steps of the Casa de la Música, a place buzzing with locals and tourists dancing under the stars. Later, head to the town’s only nightclub located inside a series of enormous caves – making for a completely unexpected and surreal experience. A word to the wise It’s worth noting that Cuba is a poor country, and you will be hassled by people hustling places to stay, restaurants, black-market cigars, even sex, amongst countless other offerings. Their strange two- currency system, where tourists and now locals too, pay for most things with CUC or convertible pesos (almost equivalent to the U.S. dollar), and the almost worthless peso Cubano in which the majority of Cubans are paid their measly salaries – highlights the differences between the haves and the havenots. Most Cubans still rely on dwindling state ration handouts for their daily needs. However, despite the poverty and sometimes intrusive hustling, you’re likely to be charmed by Cuba. It’s one of the few remaining places in the world that continues to be true to itself, rather than cater to the whims of tourists (especially its neighbours to the north), sharing its vibrant, raw energy with everyone in equal measure.

Top: The pristine white, quiet beaches of the Playa Ancon overlooking the Carribean sea, outside Trinidad.

PA S S P O R T

This vintage-style train, with her impeccable carriages, reflects a bygone, romantic golden era of travel; yet features the very latest in luxury accommodation, dining, and service.

Tracking Luxury FEB â&#x20AC;&#x201D; MAR 2013

El TransCantĂĄbrico

The luxury train that has shared the La Robla Railway with old coal trains circa 1983, quietly completes 30 years of leaving travellers with an indelible imprint of the Spanish countryside.

treated like royalty, rediscovering the glory days of rail travel. In 2011, the El TransCantábrico Clásico’s cabins underwent a grand renovation, and transformed into the Gran Lujo. Where once there were two cabins, there is now one expanded Gran Lujo suite. Each of these 14 deluxe wood-panelled, air-conditioned suites has twin- or king-size beds with luxury linen, a private PC with internet access, flat-screen TVs, and a decadent bathroom with sauna and hydro-massage shower. A single suite costs €8,500 when booked in under four months. From the West, the train follows the ‘Camino de Santiago’ backwards, towards the east, taking in charming sights such as fishing villages of Galicia and the dramatic mountain ranges of the Picos de Europa in Asturias. Guests are treated to a privileged cultural experience that extends from the oldest cave paintings in Europe, the Palaeolithic art of Cantabria’s Altamira cave to the vibrancy and modernity of Bilbao, that is second to none. The regional capitals of Oviedo and Santander offer a cornucopia of architectural and cultural sights that are enhanced by luxury private coach excursions to ancient, hidden mountains, and valley towns that stir the heart. This train journey is more than an insight into Spain’s art, architecure, and history, as gastronomy is one of the defining elements of

this experience. In addition to the exquisite train dining cars that serve daily breakfasts and on-board meals, guests are invited to indulge in the region’s finest cuisine during off-train excursions: Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria, and the Basque country represent some of the culinary highlights of Spain. Typical menus feature fresh seafood and fish, including lobster, crab, mussels, and clams, when paired with delicious regional white wines, create memories to cherish. In line with the expectations of discerning travellers – only 28 passengers can travel at a time – the train offers a number of onboard services such as daily laundry service; multilingual guides, and an inconspicuous security service, as well as an attentive onboard crew well trained to discreetly cater to and anticipate your every whim. As we sit back and relax in the elegant lounge cars (one of which hosts a bar and a dance floor) the lush scenery and striking architecture of Spain passes by the windows, whetting our appetite for the days to come. With each city stop providing an unparalled experience, we realize the value of relishing the journey as much as the destination. In which case, those eight special days on board the El TransCantábrico could very well be the journey of a lifetime. www.eltranscantabricogranlujo.com

Opposite page: El TransCantábrico passes by a deep valley; This page: Passengers get set to board the train (top); The delicacies and luxe interiors of the train (bottom).

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ur adventure begins at the place where for centuries many journeys have ended: one of the great cities of religious pilgrimage, Santiago de Compostela has captured the imagination of generations, and is still a magnet for those looking to escape the demands of modern life. So instead of embarking on an arduous walking trail, we are travelling in the opposite direction to San Sebastián, aboard the sumptuous navy and cream El TransCantábrico Gran Lujo. The perfect meeting point for a luxurious journey of discovery is the breathtaking 15thcentury building, El Hotel dos Reis Católicos. Considered one of the oldest luxury hotels in the world, Santiago’s five-star parador in Spain’s north-western province of Galicia overlooks the iconic Plaza de Obradoiro and is close to the city’s famous cathedral. We leave Santiago and meet our new home for the next eight days; the stunning, incomparable El TransCantábrico. This vintagestyle train, with her impeccable carriages, reflects a bygone, romantic golden era of travel; yet features the very latest in luxury accommodation, dining, and service. Shortly after we’ve settled into the opulent cabins, the train gently shakes into action and gradually accelerates, leaving the station with an old-world finesse and style long since lost in modern travel. From now on, the passenger is

PHOTOGRAPHY: MICHAEL SWAMY

Saucy

CHEF VIKAS KHANNA

In an exclusive chat with Le CITY deluxe INDIA, the yummy chef dishes out his favourite, easy-tomake menu du jour, which will leave women drooling and men running for their aprons.

GOURMET holding hands and watching the sun go down. That's a perfect date. The most special thing you have done for a woman and vice versa? I love pomegranate, and once a girl got some for me one summer in New York at my gym. I loved it. Another time, I flew a lady to Paris in 2009 to meet HH the Dalai Lama. It was the top-most thing in her bucket list and came to her as a complete surprise. Marriage-wise, would you pick an Indian partner? Does it make a difference? Love is much deeper than skin colour. Any celebrity crushes you've had? Madhubala and Sridevi.

his Punjabi lad sure packs a culinary punch: with his recent book My Great India CookBook in stores, he has charmed his way into hearts worldwide, not just through his immense cooking talent, but also with his matinée idol looks and unquenchable thirst to put Indian food on the map. Define Vikas Khanna in three words. Chef, Amritsari, Junoon. What is your favourite dish and cuisine? Everything Indian, I love. Besides that, ema dashi, a Bhutanese dish. The most challenging dish you’ve ever cooked? Cooking rabbit and foie gras terrine at Le Cordon Bleu, Paris.

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From humble beginnings in Amritsar, to a Michelin-starred restaurant in New York, how difficult was your journey? I call it a cosmic schedule, when you keep working with your head down, the universe plans your future.

Besides cooking for a woman, what would be your idea of a perfect date? Once I met a couple in California who had witnessed the sunset together for 53 years. I remember watching them on their patio,

Do you prefer home parties or going out to a club? I love entertaining at home. It’s amazing to have a dinner at home full of warmth and superb food. Your childhood ambition? To become a farmer. After publishing six books on food, you’ve just had a book on India, released in Mumbai. You also have another book, in the offing, on Amritsar. What made you turn author? I have to tell the story of our own life and people. Literature makes it happen. What is your recipe to being a great cook? It should reflect a continuous thread of thought by the chef. What rules should a man follow in the kitchen while cooking for his date? Respect your partner’s beliefs and food preferences. Make something simple from the heart. What is one dish that you would not like to make? I have always hated cooking endangered species. Many people call it exotic, but for me it’s just not right. MasterChef India Season 3 – are there any changes you’re making to the format, and how can the show be improved? We are going to go with a totally Indian tadka. You will be amazed to see all the new kinds of foods that India has to offer.

You’ve been in the Sexiest Man Alive list, voted Hottest Chef in New York, been on the cover of top men’s magazines – do you consider yourself a style icon? I am a simple bawarchi, who lives a very healthy lifestyle. I eat right; I don’t smoke, or drink alcohol, or do drugs. If that makes me stylish, then I am! How do keep your six-pack abs in shape? I am disciplined: I work out, eat on time and never eat late. What’s next in your Holy Kitchen film series? How have your films been received so far? My next film is called Wheel of Dharma, which showcases Buddhism and spirituality through food. I am blessed to have the opening of the film graced by HH the Dalai Lama. The films have been received very well and have been screened at international film festivals, as well as Oxford, Harvard and other universities. You believe in giving back to society – with your foundation SAKIV, and numerous charitable events you have organized. Why do you think giving back is so important? My whole life has been driven by hunger. The physical hunger could be addressed by a little contribution from everyone. SAKIV brings those hands together; it’s the reason why I decided to live my life in the kitchen. Your top travel destinations outside of India? Bhutan, Switzerland, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Tibet, and the list will forever go on. We know you meditate. But after a long, tiring day at work what is your perfect way to unwind? We generally have meditation sessions at Junoon before dinner service. I write to unwind every day, sometimes about an experience, stories, food rituals. It helps me relax, especially when I re-read my entry after weeks. Any guilty pleasures? Dark, bitter chocolate. Are you a gadget person? What is the one device you just cannot do without? I was never a gadget person until I met gadget guru, Rajiv Makhni of NDTV fame. He introduced me to Nokia Lumia. I am totally in love with discovering new apps and features. What is your life’s philosophy? Every light or moment is transient. It is most important to know the meaning of light and glory, and make it useful. What does luxury mean to you? Comfort means more to me than luxury.

A LIGHT SPRING SUPPER WITH MICHELIN-STARRED INDIAN CHEF VIKAS KHANNA

Panch phoran-encrusted hilsa with tamarind mustard sauce For the Sauce ½ tsp turmeric paste ½ tsp chilli paste 2 tbsp mustard paste 4 tbsp mustard oil 1 tsp mustard seeds 2 tbsp tamarind pulp 4 pieces green chillies (slit lengthwise) 1 tsp sugar Salt to taste For the Fish 1 onion (finely chopped) 1 tomato (finely chopped)

Khubani ka meetha (with pomegranate sorbet)

1 tsp lemon juice ½ tbsp mustard paste 2 hilsa fish fillets Salt to taste Black pepper powder to taste 1 tbsp onion seeds (lightly roasted) 1 tbsp fennel seeds (lightly roasted) 1 tbsp mustard seeds (lightly roasted) 1 tbsp cumin seeds (lightly roasted) ½ tsp carom seeds (lightly roasted) 2 tbsp butter

1. In a mixing bowl, combine the turmeric paste, chilli paste and mustard paste with 1½ cups water.

2. Heat mustard oil; add mustard seeds, and when they crackle, add prepared thin paste. Cook for two minutes, then add tamarind pulp, green chillies, and sugar, and cook till sauce thickens. Mix in salt. 3. In a grinder, combine the onion with the tomato, lemon juice and mustard paste, and grind to a fine paste.

4. Coat the hilsa fillets with the ground paste, salt and pepper, and keep aside to marinate for 20 minutes. Pre-heat the oven to 1500C.

5. Meanwhile, combine the onion seeds, fennel seeds, mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and carom seeds in a mortar pestle and grind coarsely.

For the Sorbet 2 cups fresh pomegranate juice 3 cups sugar ¼ cup lemon juice ½ tsp lemon zest

1. For the sorbet, in a mixing bowl, combine the pomegranate juice with sugar, and whisk till sugar dissolves. Stir in the lemon juice and zest.

2. Pour the mixture in a metal bowl and freeze till hard. Remove, break into pieces and pass through a food processor till the ice gets crushed. Return to the freezer and refreeze. 3. For the khubani ka meetha, deseed the apricots, crack open the seeds, and reserve the almonds. 4. Purée the apricots in a blender.

Baingan kaachri 1 cup wholewheat flour 1½ tsp red chilli powder 1½ tsp cumin powder ¾ tsp turmeric powder Salt to taste ½ tsp carom seeds

(rubbed between your palms) 5 tbsp oil 3 pieces long, thin aubergines (cut into ½-inch thick slices)

1. In a mixing bowl, combine the wheat flour, chilli powder, cumin powder, turmeric powder, salt, and carom seeds. Mix well and add one tablespoon of oil.

8. To serve, place fillets on a serving plate, drizzle over with prepared sauce, and serve hot.

4. Place the slices on a paper towel to absorb any excess oil, and serve hot.

3. Heat the remaining oil in a kadhai (wok) over a low flame; coat the sides of the wok and arrange the aubergine slices inside. Place the kadhai on a medium flame, cover, and cook till aubergines are just done. Make sure they are cooked on both sides.

5. In a saucepan, combine the puréed apricots with sugar, and cook over a low flame, stirring constantly till sugar dissolves and mixture thickens to a thick syrup. Remove from flame and cool to room temperature. 6. Crush the sorbet in the food processor again.

7. Spoon the khubani ka meetha on a side of a dessert bowl. Place one scoop of pomegranate sorbet next to it. Drizzle over with cream and sprinkle with reserved almonds. Serve immediately.

“I have always hated cooking endangered species. Many people call it exotic, but for me it's just not right.”

FEB — MAR 2013

6. Place the marinated fish in the ground powder and encrust properly on one side.

2. Place an aubergine slice in the flour mixture and coat each side with the spiced flour. Using a fork, ‘prick’ each side so that the flour sticks to the aubergine. Repeat with the remaining slices.

7. Heat butter on a griddle over a low flame, and sear the encrusted fish on the side which is not encrusted. Place on a greased baking tray, seared side down and bake in the oven for 7-8 minutes till fish is done, and crust is crispy.

For the Khubani 24 pieces apricots (soaked overnight) ½ cup sugar 1/3 cup heavy cream (whipped well)

GOURMET

DINING HOTSPOTS

TEXT BY PRIYA KUMARI RANA

Come nightfall, and this techie city comes alive with a smorgasbord of savoury food offerings from pan-Asian to Italian, to European fine cuisine, and hearty Goan delights – and don’t forget the music! Manoviraj Khosla gives the lowdown

SHIRO

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Shiro (‘castle’ in Japanese) serves outstanding food in a neo-Zen atmosphere, and replicates the flavour of the brand in New Delhi. Located in UB City mall, the space goes from a lofty-ceilinged interior bar area with a giant Buddha, to a tropical outdoor section with Teppenyaki tables manned by dexterous chefs, and soothing waterfalls. The menu is Oriental, with a twist. Japanese, Chinese, and Balinese fare is served up by eager waiters, with fusion being the name of the game: an in-house specialty includes the Korean-style Mahtani chicken, named after one of the proprietors, Sanjay Mahtani. I love their Boursin prawns, a combination of soft Boursin cheese with Japanese-style Teppenyaki prawns. The place is swarming with expats, who’re no doubt attracted by its laid-back ambience.

#222, Triple Height, 3rd Floor, UB City ‘Comet’, Vittal Mallya Road; (080) 4173 8861/2.

HARD ROCK CAFÉ As befits the marque worldwide, this 250-cover eatery at the intersection of MG Road and St Marks Road, is true Americana. Housed in a colonial stone building, next to the Book Society, the interiors are warm and inviting, with wooden cabin furniture, while the open courtyard outside is perfect to enjoy balmy evenings. I come here for the best beef-burgers in town (the patty is 300gm of pure beef ), and awesome cocktails – the Triple Platinum Margarita and Bahama Mama are particularly delicious. Also try their BBQ Ribs, and Tex-Mex favourite, Hard Rock Nachos. It’s loud and fun: in-house DJs Praful and Danny rock the house every night, and on Thursdays, a live rock band entertains. International bands Poets of the Fall, Third Eye Blind, and Slayer have played here. It’s a favourite hangout of several cricket teams, and has hosted rappers such as Jay Sean, Wycleff Jean, and Sean Kingston. 40 St Marks Road; (080) 4124 2222

CAFÉ TOSCANO This Italian restaurant co-owned by Chef JeanMichel Jasserand (former executive chef at The Leela Palace, Bengaluru) and Chef Goutham Balasubramaniam, has just opened doors in Whitefield. Their flagship, in the piazza part of UB City, is slightly larger, with 130 covers, with a European-style, partly outdoor seating area. Try the oven-baked thin-crust pizzas (they have farm-fresh vegetable pizzas as well). This trattoria’s got a few winners: the pistachioencrusted lamb rack with creamy potatoes and buttered vegetables, and freshly made linguini pasta with the chef ’s secret recipe. I recommend the linguini aglio e olio fruiti di mare with panseared prawns, vongole, mussels, and green peas in wine, drizzled with a lemon-chilli-flavoured olive oil. Sign off with their signature tiramisu. 2nd floor, UB City, 24, Vittal Mallya Road (080) 4173 8800. SH 35, 2nd Floor, Forum Value Mall, Whitefield. (080) 2593 9224

SKYYE

OPUS This Goan-style lounge bar on Palace Cross Road appeals to music lovers. It has bands from around the country such as Pentagram and Soulmate, and international artistes like Mishko M’ba and Maarten Visser – with Sunday nights reserved for fun karaoke sessions where you get the chance to belt out your favourite ditties: choose from over 25,000 karaoke tracks collected over the past nine years. I’ve partied there with Sid Mallya and the Royal Challengers cricket team: Chris Gayle sang mostly reggae songs on karaoke, while AB Villiers proved he’s the better singer. The restaurant is owned by Bandra-born Carlton Braganza, and can seat up to 200 diners, with a ‘floating’ crowd of around 400 for the musical events. I’m a fan of their Goan palcao and crab dosas. I also recommend the Goan prawn curry, and choris pav. On Friday nights, you can be sure to catch a live band in action. Some of their more famous guests include Bengaluru denizens Deepika Padukone, Leander Paes, and Vasundhara Das, as well as Lara Dutta, Dino Morea, plus cricketers Daniel Vettori and Virat Kohli. No. 4, 1st Main, Chakravarthy Layout, Palace Cross Road; (080) 2344 2580

24, Vittal Mallya Road; (080) 4909 0000

MAI TAI LOUNGE This is the recently-opened 120-cover cocktail lounge from parent company Trader Vic’s, where über-hip DJ Ivan spins hip hop music on Saturday nights. Named after founder Oaklandbased Vic Bergeron’s eponymous cocktail, this is where I head to for an evening with friends. Start with jalapeňo cheese balls and Trader Vic’s summer rolls, then graduate to tofu steak and Asian chicken slider, and end with the Polynesian Snowball and coffee crème brulée. If you’re here for the cocktails, why not try exciting concoctions like Tiki Puka Puka, Chi Chi, and Scorpion Bowl, besides the obvious Mai Tai? No. 9, Orion Mall, Brigade Gateway, Dr Rajkumar Road, Malleswaram; (080) 2268 2037

Right next to Skyye is The Tower Kitchen, that serves an unique European cuisine from France, Italy, and Spain. It’s beautifully designed by architect Sandeep Khosla, with a private dining area that has the Chef ’s Table (where the chef make special dishes on order), and even a cigar lounge to really kick back with a Singleton iced tea. This 120-cover restaurant is a favourite haunt of expats. Using locally available as well as imported ingredients from Europe, The Tower Kitchen boasts several choices for vegetarians, such as the truffle-scented potato purée. However, I would recommend their in-

LIKE THAT ONLY This 100-seater restaurant and bar describes itself as “whimsical, quirky, and irreverent”, and that is exactly what it is. Restaurateur AD Singh, award-winning Chef Manu Chandra, and operations manager Chetan Rampal have hit the nail on the head when it comes to creating a funky space spread over 7,500 ft with creative, nouvelle food that emits a hint of Asia. Architect Bijoy Ramachandra, designer Anshu Arora, artist Murali Nagapuzha, and landscape artist Rashmi Attavar have created a colourful, kitsch atmosphere, perfect for savouring delights such as the sake poached pear salad with blue cheese, Chicken Rendang, an aromatic Indonesian curry served with roti jaala and prawn crackers, or Brie-stuffed peppered crab cake. Their avocado chocolate parfait with raspberry gel is superb. For a great bloody Mary, sample their Mary Pops In, served in pickled jars. A great place for executives on the run or lunching ladies. 14/31A, Hagadur Road, Whitefield; (080) 6547 5610

house special, the 21-days aged beef rib eye, and foie gras with lobster, for the carnivorous lot. UB City, 24, Vittal Mallya Road; (080) 493 9999

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THE TOWER KITCHEN

Commanding stunning 360° views of the city, from the 16th floor of UB City, this is one of the city’s hippest spots – perfect to take out-of-town guests for a drink. In fact, put the Skyye down on their list of must-visits for the city. The restaurant serves up international favourites like prawn Yakitori and Massaman lamb curry. I’d also recommend the Rock n Roll Sunset cocktail, though I am an inveterate Kingfisher beer drinker myself. With its neon-lit floors and foot-thumping music (their resident DJ plays international house music), the place can accommodate around 800 people, and is abuzz on the weekend, mostly with the young working lot.

GOURMET

Sweet Tooth

The Oberoi

TEXT BY AASHMITA NAYAR

Delhi’s best pâtisseries dazzle dessert lovers with a fresh array of confectioneries.

FEB — MAR 2013

tall flute of golden Prosecco is delicately placed in front of me by the smiling maître d’ at the Oberoi Patisserie and Delicatessen, New Delhi. Pleasantries are exchanged between Chef Soumya Goswami, executive chef and chef de cuisine for the Oberoi Group, and I, but not before he makes a quick exit and urges me to enjoy the kaleidoscopic army of delicacies placed in front of me. Trembling, neon-hued jellied pastries rub shoulders with sticky chocolates, and fat strawberries squat comfortably in clouds of powdered sugar atop a red velvet cake. I choose a confident-looking mille-feuille and hack through the vulnerable stacks of puff pastry and cream, thanking the muses of pastry chefs as I do so. The smell of vanilla and the fresh, flaky pastry have me drooling involuntarily as I give into what can only be described as pure debauchery. But the guilt is easier to forgive when one considers that the capital’s best pâtisseries are polishing up their menus for 2013. What’s problematic is the question of choice. From The Lalit’s latest toothsome delights to Chez Nini’s delectable cupcakes, we highlight five must-visits for confectionery connoisseurs and rookie sweet lovers.

New Delhi: Open from 8am to 9pm all week. Gurgaon: Open from 10am to 10pm all week.

The Oberoi, New Delhi’s Patisserie and Delicatessen has switched its flavours from Viennese to French for 2013. “We recently sent our pastry chef to the Le Notre – one of the finest pastry schools in the world – in Paris,” says Chef Goswami. A bright orange bavarois and a red velvet cake highlight the extensive menu, which is also dotted with macaroons in fresh flavours. Chocolate-based desserts are made from Valrhona – high-quality chocolate – sourced from France, while Oberoi selects organic strawberries from its own garden to create a flavourful February. The Oberoi Gurgaon will exhibit a strawberry-curated menu that includes a mouthwatering tiramisu, croissants and an intriguing strawberry wine. They will also conduct classes with the chef, which conclude with a special high tea. Meanwhile, The Oberoi, New Delhi has used flowers like violets to add flavour (an old Indian custom, according to Chef Goswami), and sugar-free items, such as passion-fruit macaroons. Both pâtisseries prepare bespoke cakes on request in a variety of colours, shapes, and flavours.

L ’Opéra This elegant pâtisserie that rolls out high-end French pastry, has introduced an authentic special this year: the galette des rois, a crumbly pie flowing with almond and pastry cream that houses a small figurine. “We are seeing a trend for on-the-go pastries, so we created marzipops – assorted lollipops made with marzipan,” says Pierre Nicollier, chief operating officer. They have introduced rose-flavoured, heartshaped macaroons for Valentine’s, with tête-à-tête pastries: rose and strawberry cakes infused with mint and rose syrup. L’Opéra offers bespoke cakes and pastries along with miniature Viennese delights: “A challenging creation was a ‘pièce montée’ – a traditional French wedding cake with a croquembouche, a tower made out choux pastry filled with cream and dusted with caramellized sugar,” says Nicollier.

Open from 8am to 10pm Monday to Saturday; 9:30am to 10pm on Sundays.

Top: The Oberoi, New Delhi’s Patisserie and Delicatessen Raspberry and blueberry mousse with blackcurrant jelly; Bottom: L'Opéra's special marzipops.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY: L'OPERA; OBEROI NEW DELHI; CHEZ NINI; THE RED MOON BAKERY; THE LALIT

New Delhi and Gurgaon

Chez Nini Perched behind the India Habitat Centre, in Meherchand Market, is a little slice of French cuisine heaven known as Chez Nini, named after Montréal-born Nira Kehar (or Nini as she is fondly known). “While our savouries are also getting a facelift for 2013, it’s the restaurant’s dessert menu that has me excited,” admits Kehar. “I want to exploit gorgeous Indian fruits like chikoos, bananas, and mangoes, the last being quintessentially Indian.” In addition to a special chocolate fondue for two this February, Kehar has several sweet tricks up her chef ’s coatsleeves: she is currently

experimenting with caramel-toffee cupcakes and maple cookies, the former of which will be up on the menu soon. Chez Nini’s popular red velvet cupcakes with creamcheese toppings has bags of flavour, but it’s her version of carrot cake with toffee that really tickles the taste buds with its smokey aftertaste. “The secret lies in the fact that we use jaggery to make the toffee, not sugar,” she reveals. A beautifully rich dark-chocolate macaroon cake with a marbling of coconut and moist chocolate butter cream icing, along with a seasonal fruit cheesecake with thick Philadelphia cheese cream, banana cognac flambé, and vanilla sauce, complete the menu’s offerings. Open from 12pm to 11:30pm all week.

The Red Moon Bakery While The Oberoi’s chefs focus on dulcet offerings from Europe, Anna and David Hambly, of Red Moon Bakery fame sweeten up New Delhi with their Canadian desserts. Their rich nanaimo bars – a classic Canadian dessert – remain popular favourites, but have recently been overshadowed by moist carrot-cake cupcakes and cherry walnut slices. “We are also baking up hot cross buns and beautiful sugar cookies, in addition to our cupcake of the month for Easter,” says Anna. Bespoke cakes are not the Hamblys’ cup of tea, but their freshly baked bread makes for a perfect tea-time snack. “It’s best for clients to ask us for baked items a day in advance, so we ensure they’re freshly baked on delivery,” says Anna.

24/7, The Lalit Recently, Chef Naseer Ahmed of The Lalit Hotel prepared a cake which resembled his client’s real-life vehicle, right down to the number plate. Specialized cakes and regular profferings aside, Executive Chef Bernhard Koenig and Chef Ahmed have prepared four masterpieces that promise love at first bite this Valentine’s month. “What makes these preparations unique is our concept of combining culinary innovation with modern techniques, rather than keeping it plain and traditional such as a heart-shaped chocolate cake,” say the chefs. “The Raspberry

Fêted as New Delhi’s only Canadian bakery, it is always a challenge for the duo to experiment with local produce. “Berries are not easily available here, especially raspberries and blackberries that were such an integral part of my Canadian baking,” says Anna. “But it is a huge learning curve to adapt to local ingredients, and I love the mangoes here. Also, there is so much more than when we first came to India 10 years ago, such as quality cheese and chocolate.” Red Moon Bakery recently opened its outlet in GK-2, M Block market last October, but still delivers to homes across New Delhi and Gurgaon. Select items are also available at Nature’s Basket stores. Open 9am to 9pm all week.

Mascarpone took us a minimum of three hours, and was the hardest to prepare, as it involved multiple components, such as the setting of the raspberry jelly and the tempering of the chocolate.” Other complex preparations such as the mango passion mousse and the salty caramel tart with Jivara mousse are also part of the exotic Valentine’s menu, while the daily menu intrigues sweet lovers with a pomegranate or mango kulfi, a pear tart with pistachio cream, and panna cotta mousse with jellified mango coulis. “The best drink to go with these would be a flavoured cappuccino and latte, or infused concoctions with ginger or mint,” say the chefs in unison. Open from 10am to 8pm all week.

Top: Chez Nini's chocolate macaroon cake; middle: Sugar cookies from Red Moon Bakery; Bottom: Salty caramel chocolate tart with Jivara mousse from 24/7, The Lalit.

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t o H t i e Lik Chitrangda Singh

The actor’s on a break. No hectic schedules, no rush, just quality time spent en famille. Flush from the success of Inkaar, she’s just resting her hat before wowing audiences once again with her sultry screen presence. Photographed by Amit Sharma

FEB — MAR 2013

COVER STORY

INTERVIEW BY SURUCHI DUGGAL, NIKKI DUGGAL

he Australian Open 2013 is on, and as we walk into the den of their new home in Gurgaon (they’ve been there for around six months) we find Chitrangda and her husband Jyoti Randhawa glued to the television set. It’s a thriller of a match between Chitrangda’s favourite player Roger Federer and Andy Murray, and Fedex is losing. She doesn’t seem to be too happy about this. Little Zorawar, the couple’s son, is playing a video game while he mimics his parents with their ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’. As we settle down with our cups of tea and biscuits, it’s evident that Federer is going to lose. We get our cue to start the interview. What comes to mind by looking at Chitrangda is just how beautiful, petite, and full of energy she is. The actor tells us how sitting here in the couple’s den, watching telly with the family, is something she’s done for the first time since they moved into their new house. She’s been rather busy and on the move. Just back from Canada, she has a few days in New Delhi before she flies off to Mumbai. Her recently released Inkaar has gotten her rave reviews, and we look forward to her new movie with John Abraham this March. So you’ve been watching the Australian Open... are you a tennis fan? A huge fan. I’ve admired Marat Safin, for a long time. Until he screwed up everything by getting angry (laughs)... But I really think he’s a really talented player who just couldn’t handle the pressure. And there’s Roger Federer, of course. What about the women players? It has to be Serena Williams. I love her. I know men don’t (laughs), but I love her game, her strength, and the way she fights to win. I can’t stand Maria Sharapova (laughs), but Serena is absolutely fabulous.

Are there any players you’ve met? Vijay Singh. I’ve met Tiger Woods too; we’ve exchanged hellos. He’s very interesting to watch, as is English player Lee Westwood. Do you still play the odd round? Sometimes. But I’m not regular, and you have to be, as with any sport. I don’t really play any sport, but I started kickboxing as a fitness routine three months ago and I love it. I’m lucky to have a really good trainer in Mumbai – in my fourth class with him, he revealed he was an Asian Games gold medallist in kickboxing from Thailand (his father is Thai and a professional fighter). His workouts are nothing short of tough. Are you an adventure sports junkie? Jyoti is, and my brother too. I’ve only done a bit of skydiving. What was that experience like? Were you scared? Jyoti was saying just yesterday...skydiving... that leap you take is a leap of faith. And at that

moment, it’s just you. It’s an amazing thing, to let go of everything and just drop down; there’s just the fluttering sound of the canopy around you, and it’s such a liberating feeling. You land, and there’s just such a smile on your face. So, with all that’s going on with you, your work, travelling...how do the men in your life manage? They’re okay, at least they look alright! Jyoti has been fantastic. He understands ambition,

what it takes to make it, the pressure. He’s been there; he’s gone pretty far ahead in his career while I feel I’m just getting started. But we’ve managed, we’ve stretched ourselves thin at times, and there are good days and bad days. So do you live now between two cities –Mumbai and Delhi? More or less. It’s hectic right now, as I have another film releasing on March 1st. But I don’t take on too much work, it’s not like I’m constantly shooting. What’s your apartment in Mumbai like? Oh, it’s much smaller (than here). Jyoti doesn’t like Mumbai though, what with all the chaos and space constraints. (Laughs.) But my place in Andheri West is cozy – two and a half bedrooms. There’s a pool downstairs so the kids can play when they’re here. What about Mumbai – the people of the city? The vibe is creative, and it is certainly a lot more professional than Delhi. It’s all about work in Mumbai, it’s about what you do. In Delhi it tends to be about whom you know. The mindset is different – I mean, the other day, I was meeting with an agency head who was running late due to traffic. He just hopped out of his car and got into a rickshaw to save time and not keep me waiting, you know? So the attitude is professional, down to earth. Even in the

Opposite page: The actor's upcoming movie with John Abraham I, Me, aur Main, has her playing one of John's two love interests.

FEB — MAR 2013

She just lost though... And to teen Sloane Stephens! In straight sets! I’m glad I wasn’t watching the match (laughs).

Speaking of sports, tell us about your love affair with golf. And what it has entailed being married to a professional golfer, your husband Jyoti Randhawa? I’ve just been figuring out what it entailed being married to Jyoti, that’s all! Before I got married – Jyoti was already playing at the time – I wanted to know what golf was all about, so I played seriously for about two months. Morning and evening, I would cycle down to the golf course and I think I ended up playing a decent game. I just wanted to understand the sport, what makes it so tough, you know? Over the years, I’ve travelled with Jyoti; I’ve walked with him through every single practice match, I even caddied for him in countries like Korea and Taiwan... I remember the first time I caddied for him was in Taiwan. It was a terrible golf course – long and wide – at the Tanmui Course and Resort. I was running up and down, caddying for Jyoti, trying to prove, “I’m all there for you!” (laughs). If the slopes weren’t tiring enough, there were actual storms – you know, there they have wet, windy typhoons – and you have to hold an umbrella against all this. I had to keep myself dry, the clubs dry, the player dry... When Jyoti finally started putting, I had to walk away because you can’t hold the umbrella over the player while he’s putting – but as soon as he’d finished, he would look over at me, as if to say, “Why aren’t you here? Come here!” (Laughs). So it was tough. Then there was this other time in Carnoustie, Scotland. It was November and freezing! But I enjoy watching the game on TV; I can follow it easily.

COVER STORY

film industry, the efficiency of the technicians, the light boys and spot boys, for instance, is amazing. But there are all kinds of people to be found everywhere, you know? I have lovely friends in both cities. Tell us about your film Khwahishien. Is it true you’re playing late actor Smita Patil? No, I’m not playing her. I was asked some time ago in an interview if I wanted to do a biopic and I said sure, it would be a challenge to play a person who’s actually lived, a real person. And I also said if anyone, then I’d love to play Smitaji, as I’ve been compared to her and I really admire her. That’s all I said, and boom! Suddenly this whole rumour came about.

FEB — MAR 2013

Have you been formally trained to act? No, I never even thought about acting. During my school days, I was more interested in dancing, and I took part in several competitions. I also did a bit of training in Kathak. But acting simply never occurred to me. I had never even been to Mumbai before my first audition. I’d started modelling during my college years to make some extra money, but basically, I was quite undecided about the future. At one point, I even thought of becoming an air hostess, but they rejected me during the third round of the selection process (laughs). My good luck! Still, one thing led to another. I’d auditioned for a Pond’s ad. I didn’t make it, but Gulzar sahab saw my audition, and cast me in a music video that he was directing at the time. And then somebody saw the video and suggested my name to Sudhir Mishra and his team for Hazaaron Khwaishein Aisi...at the time, Sudhir’s team was only auditioning actors from the National School of Drama (NSD). So for the first few days, I had no way in. But then on the last day...they hadn’t yet found the right actor for the character of Geeta. And then the film’s production guy, Neeraj, thought of me and said, let’s call her in...she’s a model, but she did a good job in that music video. So they called me on the last day of auditions. At the time, I was in Korea with Jyoti but I flew back and auditioned. And that’s how Hazaaron...became my first movie.

It was a terrific debut. How did Jyoti, your family, and friends react? I think they didn’t think anything, really. It wasn’t a big deal. [ Jyoti: It’s like, she made a movie. That’s it. It just happened.] I’ve been lucky... I’ve not acted in too many movies, but I’ve received a lot of acknowledgement and praise from the industry, which feels good.

Tell us about your recent release, Inkaar. You’ve said that every working woman should see it. Yeah, yeah. Arjun Rampal has said in almost every interview – and I agree with him – that women are inherently emotional. And in the workspace, they can get over-emotional, and dramatize things, which they shouldn’t. That’s something that happens in the film with my character Maya. Another thing I feel, is that when a woman gets power and makes decisions, she’s looked upon in a certain way. People feel she’s cold and selfish and ruthless, but a man in the same situation is seen as focused, confident, and clear-headed. There’s a real difference in perception there. In any case, I don’t feel a woman has to act like a man to be successful. Feminism is not about emulating a man. Our film touches upon

Irani. He’s got such a great energy on the set and such warmth. I call him Dad (he played my father in Kal) – he’s wonderful. Tell us about performing a sultry item number in the film Joker. We had a great time shooting. Farah Khan was fabulous. But I literally reached the sets the night before the shoot. Geeta the choreographer showed me the steps, and I was like...Really? You expect me to just do that? (Laughs). But she said, “You have rhythm, you’ll manage just fine.” We started rehearsing the next morning at 10am, and shooting the same night. In most of your films, you play a modern woman, a working woman, a woman who falls in love... That’s why I did the Kafirana song in Joker. I play a rustic character. Farah actually advised me to take on a role I hadn’t before, to be seen like I’d never been before. You decided not to celebrate Republic Day this year, in light of the horrific gang rape incident in Delhi last month. Can you tell us about that? I’ve tweeted about this... I mean, what is there to celebrate? It’s a good occasion rather, to think about how we’ve failed as a society. Not just our politicians, each of us is responsible. I feel strongly about this as a woman.

all these issues. And Maya is what a lot of women are – at least, in their own minds. I guess we have to learn to be smart, to ‘play the game’. Can you tell us what your next release, I, Me Aur Main, is all about? It stars myself, John Abraham, and Prachi Desai. It’s about relationships – a failed relationship, rather – and this guy who learns to be accountable to his relationships. He learns to stop taking it for granted and becomes a better man for it. It’s a light romantic comedy. What’s it like working with Arjun and John? Great. They’re professional, very real, with no pretentions. But one co-star I adore is Boman

Tell us about your interests. I’m not much of a gadget person. I love music...all that ’80s and ’90s stuff. I like James Blunt, John Mayer, Nickelback, that’s what I have on my iPod right now. Reading? I buy a lot of books! I like the idea of having all these books on my shelf (laughs). I’ve read a lot of Dan Brown, actually. And I tried Fifty Shades of Grey and abandoned it halfway...thought it was utter crap. Your five wardrobe essentials? A great pair of shoes. Then I love jackets: a jacket over trousers is a great look. What else? White shirt, blue jeans, and a LBD. A dress, if it hugs you in the right places – that really works for me! What does fashion mean to you? Being comfortable and being true to my own style. There was this interviewer from the Hollywood Reporter who asked me about being a fashion icon and all that, and we (my makeup artist and manager), just laughed and laughed. I wear what I like, I don’t really hanker for brands or follow fashion trends. But I do like Dolce

Opposite page: Chitrangda likes to get her basics right clothes-wise: a white shirt, blue jeans, a jacket, and a great pair of shoes.

COVER STORY

and Gabbana though, and Roberto Cavalli is fantastic. I like good cuts. Amongst the Indian designers, I love Anand Kabra. Then, Sabyasachi and Tarun Tahiliani. Shehla Khan in Mumbai, an up-and-coming designer, is really good. And besides Amrapali, I favour Eina Ahluwalia who does amazing jewellery. For personal, day to day wear, I like off-the-rack clothing. I love jeans from Top Shop and Seven.

Are you a foodie? Not really. Although a must-have is cold coffee, which I can drink all day. I like Bengali sweets, like mishti doi. And I love authentic Thai food. I don’t cook, although I can prepare laal maas which a friend of Jyoti’s taught me to make.

Would you say you’re a romantic? Totally. Heart over head. I’m a true Virgo... a crazy, foolish, romantic.

FEB — MAR 2013

Tell us a bit about your hair and skin regimen? I do the occasional hair spa, but favour home remedies. Parachute oil is great! For my skin, I swear by besan as a face pack. I don’t use soap or facewash – just regular applications of besan. I consciously drink lots of water and eat healthy.

How do you keep so fit? I’ve been doing a combination of things for a while. Cardio at first, then strength training. But what works best for me is kickboxing. It’s exciting – much more than the usual boring treadmill routine. I’ve been after Jyoti to start.

So I’m not really a foodie. Even at restaurants, I prefer the ambience to the food. In Delhi, I like Tonino – and Nooba in Gurgaon for Chinese food; they do this amazing steamed fish with chopped garlic. In Mumbai, I frequent Indigo and the Pali Hill Café. Also the BBC at The Marriott. They have the best sandwiches.

What’s the one thing you’d like to change about yourself ? (Smiles.) More head over heart.

And yeah, I’m great at dips. If you can call that cooking, that is!

Top: Chitrangda in her many moods.

You’ve just returned from Canada. What’s next for you? That was a press conference in Vancouver for the awards show I’m hosting in April with Karan Johar. And I have a new project starting sometime then as well.

Q&A

with Jyoti Randhawa

Five things you love about your wife? * She’s beautiful. I’m lucky to have a wife this gorgeous. * She’s driven. She constantly pushes herself... and me. * She’s family-oriented. * She’s caring and emotional. * She’s ultra-feminine. The opposite of macho me.! The one thing you’d change about her?

Top: Posters from the actor's various film releases, over the years.

FEB — MAR 2013

Nothing really. Maybe her hyperactivity. She’s always moving, cleaning, jumping up, and doing something or the other...there’s peace only when she’s asleep!

FA SHION

toThrill

After being selected as Queen Elizabeth II’s honeymoon luggage and seeing Sir Edmund Hillary through to his first base camp, British luxury luggage brand GlobeTrotter plays a heavyweight role in an iconic film that marks its 50th anniversary. TEXT BY AASHMITA NAYAR

FEB — MAR 2013

mmortality contradicts the concept of a tangible existence. However, two British men, one a renowned author (Sir Ian Fleming), the second a luxe entrepreneur (David Nelken who founded Globe-Trotter in 1897), both men of formidable reputations, have established a tangible bond beyond the grave that not only celebrates their collective achievements, but also pays homage to their British roots. In a unique collaboration with the latest James Bond film, Skyfall, luxury brand Globe-Trotter has entered the biggest partnership in its 115 year-old history to produce an extraordinary Stabilist Aluminium Rifle case to honour the 50th anniversary of secret agent James Bond. “The Stabilist Aluminium Rifle case is one of the most exclusive products we’ve made, as it is limited to just 100 editions globally,” says Katherine Green, brand manager for GlobeTrotter. “Once those 100 suitcases have been sold, no more will be produced.” According to Green, this rare edition makes it an ideal collectible for Bond fans, as it is also the first time that the company has produced an aluminium suitcase. “Each one of the 100 Stabilist Aluminium Rifle cases has been made from start to finish by

Joe, a senior craftsman, who has been making Globe-Trotter suitcases for over 35 years,” says Green. “Once all the individual components are ready, it takes him approximately a day to complete each Stabilist case.” Staying true to 007’s love of gadgetry, and packed with crafty mechanisms, the suitcase appears to be completely ordinary at first glance. However, Globe-Trotter’s designer Charlotte McDonnel has played her role as ‘Q’, after working closely with Skyfall’s armourer: in the movie, the frame of the bespoke case made specifically for assassin Patrice (played by Ola Rapace) detaches to turn into a rifle once it is opened with the suitcase handle that also acts as the rifle’s telescopic sight. “The Aluminium Stabilist case that we sell does not turn into a rifle, but features a replica of the sight handle developed especially for Skyfall,” says Green. After viewing Globe-Trotter’s feather-light suitcases, one cannot help but feel a slight sense of pity for Jules Verne’s Phileas Fogg as he traipsed around the world, blissfully unaware of the sub-standard luggage that probably played its heavy part in hindering his journey. The sleek 26-inch case is another example of the company’s marvellous craftsmanship: it has been constructed with vulcanized fibreboard

(invented in Britain in 1850), a signature material under the Globe-Trotter moniker that is made out of 14 layers of bonded paper. “It is as light as aluminium, and as strong as leather. We have suitcases in the archives that date back to over a century and are still in excellent condition, proving the durability of the product,” says Green. The case also displays a plaque in the lid, which shows each suitcases’s sequential numbering from 1/100 to 100/100. Diamond-quilted Alcantara lining completes the spectacular finish. Globe-Trotter has also launched The James Bond Centenary Special Edition. The collection features luggage cases that range from slim attaché cases (16 inches) to suitcases (33 inches), and a capsule collection of Bond leather products. Made in Hertfordshire (Globe-Trotter’s factory location) on Victorian machinery, these handcrafted products range from wallets to luggage tags, and are lined with a neat jacquard weave with the iconic 007 serial number plaque and the Bond gun barrel design. Prices for the collection begin at `75,000, and the entire line, in addition to the James Bond Stabilist Rifle Case, is available at GlobeTrotter’s recently launched boutique in Maurya ITC, in New Delhi.

Top: The James Bond Stabilist Rifle Suitcase is limited to 100 editions, and features a replica of the telescopic sight handle developed for Skyfall.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY: GLOBE-TROTTER

Designed

FEB — MAR 2013

FA SHION

A Yen for

Yarn

The dapper Italian-born textile designer Peter D’Ascoli left his urbane life in the Big Apple 20 years ago to set up shop in a burgeoning city half a world away. TEXT BY ADITI SENGUPTA / PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVID MATTHIESSEN

FEB — MAR 2013

scapism is what this success story begins with – at least that’s what Peter D’Ascoli, the maverick who weaves magic with textiles, would have you believe. Having cast his spell across continents – America, Europe, and Asia – the Italian designer has now settled for the life of an ‘expat’ in New Delhi. Sitting several oceans away from his home in Long Island, New York, D’Ascoli still retains vivid memories of the days spent drawing as a child. “I would escape into my art, locked up in my room. For me, it was an escape from the very real world I was growing up in. And this gave me a sense of adventure,” says D’Ascoli. His spirit of adventure was not confined to just the sketchbook. It soon led to the birth of a traveller. Explorer D’Ascoli’s first major expedition was to India, 21 years ago. “It was the idea of time travel that enticed me to visit India. I was a student of design in Manhattan at the time, and I was excited at the prospect of going into such a different world,” says D’Ascoli. But it was not just aimless ‘escapism’ that brought him to New Delhi for two months. “I had a summer job, designing fabric for a menswear designer. The latter was an American backed by an Indian exporter from New Delhi, and it was the exporter who brought us here,” he adds. Thus began a love affair with the Indian capital and much credit goes to the humble Sikh family that hosted D’Ascoli in their Rajouri Garden home. It was with ‘Papaji’, the family patriarch, that the young Italian went to Amritsar and stayed at the Golden Temple. Sharing community meals with

pilgrims still remains one of D’Ascoli’s most humbling experiences. Now a resident of New Delhi, he seems to long to live in the city as he had seen it two decades ago. “Back then, Chandni Chowk was peppered with wood-carved façades; there were camels and tongas on the roads...that was the Delhi I first met,” says the designer. There were other reasons too for cherishing that first trip, “During those two months I met a few people from the Ministry of Textiles. They invited me to tour India along with two Indian designers after my graduation.” D’Ascoli believes that the winds of reform tipped the scales in favour of opening shop in the country. “When I came back to tour India, I met a whole bunch of designers fresh out of school and I loved it. Everything I am doing today would have been a distant dream without these people. We’ve remained good friends over the years. As a foreigner, I pay a lot to keep my small business, which is self-financed, running in India, but my friends help me in whatever ways they can,” he says. D’Ascoli’s business venture in Delhi, D’Ascoli & Company, is more than six years old. He says it wasn’t easy to choose between home turf (read New York) and a newly acquired love (read New Delhi). “The two cities were different worlds... In Delhi, there were only telex machines at that time. No mobiles, no computers. I did go back to New York, as studio director for Diane Von Fürstenberg (DVF), for a while. And then, one fine day I returned,” says D’Ascoli.

It is nearly impossible to tag D’Ascoli an ‘expat’, something he admits to and seems proud of. “For the first three years after I set up business here, my wife and children were living in Paris. All my friends were Indian,” he says. It was only after his family moved in with him, that he took membership of a club and connected with the capital’s expat community. “I have mixed feelings about being connected to this community,” he says. “We’re often invited to dinners, and I feel like I am in Paris, not India. Many expats don’t even experience real life in India. They live in a bubble... I don’t consider myself an expat.” D’Ascoli’s fondness for India doesn’t take away from his share of difficulties in setting up business. “I’ve found it very difficult to work here. I came here with the idea of setting up a design studio, just like the ones I had been directing in Manhattan. My first task here was to hire and train design staff, which happened smoothly and quickly. I signed a licencing agreement with a US company. The problems started when I had to source fabric locally and work with small suppliers. That’s been nightmarish. It’s taken me a long time to establish a good supply chain,” says D’Ascoli. Hiccups notwithstanding, the designerentrepreneur succeeded in roping in players from afar. His cotton comes from a mill in Tamil Nadu; the silk satin from a Bengaluru

Top: A beaming D’Ascoli surrounded by reams of fabric in vibrant hues.

life. This exposed me to a world that I was not used to, coming from a middle-class background. The work was hardcore commercial and, at the same time, we were in this glamorous studio on Fifth Avenue overlooking Central Park!” recounts D’Ascoli. Adding more glamour to the whole glossy picture was the chic neighbour the DVF team had in Rolling Stone magazine.

“Their office was in the same building as ours, and Diane was a good friend of Jann Wenner, the co-founder and publisher. Very often, rock stars and other celebritites visiting the Rolling Stone office would pop in to say hello to Diane – Paul Simon, David Bowie, Barry Diller (who is now her husband), and so on,” says D’Ascoli. From Manhattan to the avenues of New Delhi, D’Ascoli has made several adjustments

and conquests. One of his biggest lessons has been on dealing with the scorching summer. “I have a Zen approach to India’s summer... What I mean by that is some foreigners come to India, and they judge it based on what they’ve grown up around. Life is not only about material or physical comfort or pleasure. It's just not. If I wanted a life without challenges, I probably would have stayed in New York or Paris. I know the summer can be hard, but again, it is an adventure. That’s the way I approach life in general,” he says. A registered Republican – “much to the horror of (his) French wife” – but socially liberal, D’Ascoli’s favourite read is The Charterhouse of Parma by Stendhal, because of his “love of fantasy, and the exploration of wealth and sexuality and social dynamics of 18th century Europe”. His favourite aspects of New Delhi , as he puts it, are “the violent smell of money, the very verbal population, and the local love of pleasure”, and he would love to do away with all forms of transportation that require an internal form of combustion, preferring instead to walk or travel by tonkas, camels, and elephants. His weekends are spent mostly at the American Embassy Club, with his family. But when he needs some quiet time, Qutub Minar is where he heads to with a cigar for company. The story ends with ‘nahin’, the only Hindi word D’Ascoli has picked up in India so far.

Top left to right: D’Ascoli’s Lado Sarai studio in New Delhi; Swatches of sourced fabric.

FEB — MAR 2013

supplier who doesn’t sell domestically. “I’ve known him since my New York days and that helped,” says D’Ascoli. The linen for his creations still comes from South Korea, though D’Ascoli is hopeful about a mill he’s found in Kolkata. In the pipeline is a printing factory in Faridabad for two types of techniques – digital and hand printing. “It’s going to be an atelier,” says D’Ascoli. “Talianna Studio has talented designers, and I treat everyone as an equal. The organization has no hierarchy – the structure is flat, and the staff loves that,” he says of his studio. Elaborating on the range and price his wares, D’Ascoli says, “The prices for cotton start at `2,000 per yard and the silks, `5,250 per yard (the cost goes up with customization). These are stocked ready-to-go items. We also make unique prints in unique colours; we can mix embroidery with that... If you came to me, and asked that you wanted, say fabric for the walls of your dining room based on Matisse's painting, I'd say we can do that for you,” he says with a laugh. “After all, real luxury at the highest point is all about customization, something that is a huge part of Indian history and craftsmanship. There’s no denying that his stint as studio director for DVF was a remarkable education for the young Italian lad from Long Island. “I reported to Diane, and that meant working with her round the clock. When you work with Diane, you become her friend because her work is her

PRESENTS

NOV — DEC 2012

ASIA’S BIGGEST AND GRANDEST FASHION TRADE EVENT MARCH 13-17 2013 HALL NO 18

PRAGATI MAIDAN NEW DELHI

www.willslifestyleindiafashionweek.com

The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) was created as a single entity to represent the business interests of the designer fraternity across the country in light of the awareness and expansion of the Indian fashion industry in the last decade. The clear objective is to endorse and encourage designers grow their brands locally and internationally. The `Fashion Week’ initiative was launched by the FDCI to focus on growing the target customer base and the industry and to facilitate buyer-seller interaction by showcasing collections through fashion shows. The aim was to provide industry members including the increasingly young and talented designers with opportunities to showcase their new and exciting design concepts and talent.

In the last few years, under the dynamic leadership of the Board of Governors and more than 350 Designer Members week with the most prominent designers of India’s fashion ndustry. Through its platforms for Women’s prêt, couture and menswear FDCI has taken the Indian fashion industry to greater heights.

Fashion Design Council of India 209, Okhla Industrial Estate, Phase 3 Near Modi Flour Mill, New Delhi 110020

NOV — DEC 2012

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TEXT BY: AASHMITA NAYAR

Quantum of Style

FEB â&#x20AC;&#x201D; MAR 2013

No man (real or fictional) epitomizes sartorial flair better than agent oo7. A man with many personas, James Bond woos women, courts danger, and dances with death with a confident ease that is enhanced by his immaculate dressing. Conquer your fashion mission as smoothly as Bond, because sometimes, the swag is not enough.

Never say never to a silk pocket square that adds a dash of sophistication to an immaculate tuxedo. Tuxedo jacket: Ashish N Soni Bow tie: Hugo Boss@Elitify.com Pocket square, dress shirt: SBJ House of Luxury Watch: Tag Heuer

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Tomorrow never dies when you steer towards ultimate comfort in a wool-blended suit. Suit: SBJ House of Luxury Shirt: Yves Saint Laurent@Elitify.com Tie: Dior@Elitify.com Pocket square: Hugo Boss@Elitify.com Shoes: Canali Car: Aston Martin Mirage courtesy Aston Martin

Location courtesy: The Claridges Surajkund

Surprise the living daylights out of Dr. No with a valise by Globe-Trotter that goes from 端ber-luxe case to weapon of mass destruction. Jacket: Porsche Design Sweater: Banana Republic@Elitify.com Shirt: SBJ House of Luxury Jeans, shoes: Canali Sunglasses: Pierre Cardin Case: Globe-Trotter Stabilist Rifle case Cufflinks: Montblanc

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A patterned cravat for an actionpacked soirĂŠe leaves the competition shaken and the lady visibly stirred. ON HIM Tuxedo: Scabal @ SBJ House of Luxury Shirt: Knight and Bond@Elitify.com Pocket square (used as cravat): Hugo Boss@Elitify.com ON HER Gown: Gaurav & Ritika Necklace and earrings: Ganjam

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Catch the action at the tables in a slick tuxedo with peak lapels to live a Casino Royale moment. Opposite Page (TOP) ON HER Dress: Gaurav & Ritika Glasses: Model's own (BOTTOM LEFT) Suit: SBJ House Of Luxury Shirt: SBJ House Of Luxury Bow tie: Burberry@Elitify.com (BOTTOM RIGHT) Sari and blouse: Vandy Mehra@Elitify.com Earrings and necklace: The Gem Palace Watch: Dior This page Tuxedo jacket: Ashish N Soni Shirt: SBJ House of Luxury Bow tie: Hugo Boss@Elitify.com Watch: Tag Heuer

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Junior stylist: Kevin Marak; Models: Francesco Lipa, Friederike Goepel, Viktoria, Sarika, Kata, Julian (latter four courtesy Models Management by Purple Thoughts).

Location Courtesy: The Park Hotel, Connaught Place, New Delhi.

A bandgala jacket: the Indian Bondâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s answer to a Western tuxedo readily wins Octopussy over. ON HIM Bandgala: Ashish N Soni Shirt: Knight and Bond@Elitify.com ON HER Gown: Deepankshi & Reena Necklace and earrings: The Gem Palace

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Manish Arora XxxxxxXxxxx

FEB â&#x20AC;&#x201D; MAR 2013

Scion of the family that founded Bottega Venetta, this young designer is already making waves in Europe with his eponymous line of embellished, luxe, chic bags and clutches. In India for a Venetta, this young designer is already making waves in Europe with

THE

MANISH ARORA SHOW In a candid chat, the irrepressible and internationally acclaimed designer gives the lowdown on his Paris move, working on collections the French way, how he’ll always be a ‘ladies’ tailor’, and his life’s most burning passions. TEXT BY PRIYA KUMARI RANA / PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANUSHKA MENON

he wonder years

My parents are from Amritsar, but I was born an only child in Mumbai, in the suburbs of Malad. I was never a brat, which is strange for my generation. I studied at Narsee Monji, which is still the second best college for commerce in the city, but before graduation, I left. I was bored with commerce, and I had just heard about NIFT, which was new. So I applied, and gave the exam. I only took a pencil and eraser with me, whereas everybody there had fancy art materials. I am not bad at drawing, but I am no artist. Our batch at NIFT is very popular, the fourth or fifth to graduate. There was me, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Himanshu Dogra from Play Clan, Namrata Joshipura, Puja Nayyar. Today, NIFT is very commercial. We had 12-15 teachers, with one teacher for 30 students chosen from all over the country. I just wanted to leave my house and live alone. There was the sense of freedom of being on your own, being responsible for yourself. So it has been 23 years living here in New Delhi. My parents are still in Mumbai. I am the first one in my family to leave the house. I’ve loved New Delhi much more than Bombay; it’s so much more liveable.

The way we were

For me being gay has never been a problem. I always knew I was gay, and it never struck me as something different or special, which is strange, considering my conservative background. I never thought twice about being gay, or that it was disturbing in any way. Many people go through with trauma and don’t accept it. For me, it was just smooth sailing. I have had an Italian boyfriend for the last eight years. If I could, I would choose to be gay in my next seven lives. It’s so much easier! There’s no responsibility, and no need to have children. I love children from a distance, and they love me. Being gay is supposed to help your creativity,

right? I would not have been able to do what I am doing right now: one day in Paris and one day here, up and down. It’s not just about the talent. What makes for a great designer is 50 per cent talent, 25 per cent hard work, and 25 per cent timing. For some people, it’s all about publicity, but not for me.

To Paris, with love

I love Paris. I just moved to a new house, not far from the Place de la République. I don’t want to learn French, but I understand enough to manage on my own. I can read all the menus in any restaurant. I know the metros and how they work. Besides, I have an iPhone, so there’s no problem. (Laughs.) There’s even an app for pronunciation. A lot of people there speak English. Maybe it’s not fair, but I’m kind of done with India. The situation here is not improving. I want to spend more time in France. I would rather pay taxes there than here. I don’t have citizenship yet, but I have been offered it by the French embassy, and I’m seriously contemplating it. It was offered to me when I got the Paco Rabanne job, 3-4 years ago, and at that time, I declined. Initially, I would tell my friends, “Are you mad? Why would you want to live elsewhere?” Today, I want to leave this country. People say India is booming, blah, blah, but that will happen 40 years from now, and I won’t be alive. So why shouldn’t I enjoy myself ? The first time I went to Paris in 2000, I slept under a friend’s dining table because that was the only space available. That’s a memory I will never forget. It’s a good feeling to realize that I first went to Paris in 2000, and 12 years later, I have my own apartment there; I have finished 12 shows there. It’s amazing how the French can read your mind, and how they recognize honesty in your work. Sometimes I have not given my 100 per cent, and they can see it. People in India appreciate you more when

Opposite page: Design czar Manish Arora basking in the afterglow of his success on a throne by Gunjan Gupta.

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you get a stamp of approval from the West. It’s like that, not just for me, for everything. Indians love the authorization or the approval of the West. We have this thing, a fixation, at the back of our minds, like, “wow, they like you”.

FEB — MAR 2013

A match made in heaven

When Paco Rabanne first asked me to join them, I didn’t feel ready, because I felt I should concentrate on my own brand. But they insisted, and took me to their office and showed me their archives. As soon as I saw them, I knew I couldn’t refuse an assignment like this. When I did my own brand, I was the only designer who would do two shows in one week. Of course there was John Galliano, who showed both Dior and John Galliano. I was the only one with two shows in four days, mine and then Paco Rabanne. It was like living in two different worlds. The best thing I learnt there was how to survive in Paris and manage on my own. Paco Rabanne is actually owned by a perfume company, so they are not into fashion, and hadn’t presented a collection in eight years. It wasn’t like my own brand, plus I had five bosses above me, so it was complicated. But it was a learning experience. I got a different brief every season. On my first day at work, I stood by my window, and I looked out at the offices of Dior in front of me, and Nina Ricci on my right. I said to myself,

“Is this me?” It took a few days for reality to sink in. And it was not about an Indian being at the helm or anything, it was just about me doing it. It was a big deal. My partnership with Paco Rabanne ended last year on a mutual note, once I realized I was giving too much time for somebody else, though

I was very well paid, and my life literally changed in a day. After all, I was the creative director. So it was up to me to do what I wanted. Even now, my ex-assistant had the opportunity to do their last show. From my very first show, Lady Gaga wore five outfits, which she has never done for anybody. And there were other collaborations such as Monoprix, which is the Marks & Spencer of France. So in my neighbourhood, almost every second day, I saw women carrying my umbrellas or bags. Even now, when I take the metro, people recognize me and come up to me.

It’s not just because of my own brand, but also because of Paco Rabanne. It helped me become a big name abroad. After I left Paco Rabanne, I started to concentrate on my Indian by Manish Arora brand, and the results are now showing, where we recently launched the flagship in a big way. To be honest, I would rather do Indian by Manish Arora and Manish Arora, rather than Paco Rabanne and Manish Arora. My work with Nespresso was the biggest blast. There were no budget issues. It’s fun having millions of dollars at your disposal to explore in every area. As for my next, I am working on the interiors of a car company. My dream is to design my very own building and apartment, with the bathroom, fittings, furniture, carpets, done entirely by me. I want to do everything. I want to do it for myself, and live in this thing which is all done by me.

Fashioning a collection

Paris is my platform to showcase my work to the world. My biggest markets are China, the Middle East, and Europe as the third market. Then comes Japan. India is different; for this we have the Indian collection. Making a collection is complicated. You have to think of what your market is, who is your customer. For example, the Japanese and Chinese have very different tastes, as do Middle-Eastern and

This page: The designer and his friend Sapna Kumar who flaunts outfits from his past collections; Opposite page: A rose amidst floral prints (left); Kumar sports a maxi dress from the latest line, Indian by Manish Arora (right).

European customers. In the Middle East, they like full-length clothes, with their arms covered. The Japanese are more adventurous. Europe is quite conservative when it comes to fashion. The Chinese are enthusiastic; they love bright colours, like my rani pink, whereas the French don’t. So to keep in mind these various markets, that’s what is called a complete collection. Going to Paris has changed the way I think about clothes. If you look at my first show in London or Paris, and if you look at my shows now, there is a huge difference in the product. Earlier, I was just going crazy, but now there is planning behind everything. Today, I have a collection direction, a commercial director; I have a knitware director. I have a patent-maker who travels from Paris to India; I have a stylist who comes from Paris to India twice a year for shows. As for my manufacturing, 90 per cent is from abroad, with 10 per cent in Italy. And the fabrics are from all over the place.

A method in the madness

There is no method to my madness. Designing just comes naturally to me. I guess I am just tripping and living in a fantasy world all the time. (Laughs.) I never went out intentionally with the notion that I was the most colourful designer. I didn’t even know that colour was my strong suit, until I started showing outside India, in places like London, where people

would point it out. Pink and gold are my favourite colours. I can’t live without them. Pink is my life, and gold is my religion. I still wear these, though I’m 40 now, and growing up. When I create, I can’t stop, and don’t experience mental blocks. For me, it’s execution that’s difficult. I also dream a lot. It’s incredible how vivid my dreams are, and it’s a bit disturbing when I wake up. I make complete movies in my dreams, with characters and everything. In fact, I would love to make movies one day; it would literally be a dream come true! It’s just that I have had no professionally training. In my profession, you are stuck: you have to prove yourself every six months unlike artists who can paint at their leisure. Making a movie is a long process. If I weren’t a designer, I’d be a filmmaker. At work, I am very freaky. I am timeconscious, and probably the only Indian designer that I know of who wakes up at 7am. I love the mornings; when I’m in India, I reach work before my assistants. I hate people who are tardy. I am very old-fashioned in that way, and rather particular. Evenings are meant to get fucked up and be enjoyed. (Laughs.) I don’t like to work in the dark; I am more of a light person. Even if I’m on holiday in Goa, I sleep at 12am or latest by 2am. But I will wake up at 6:30am and go to the first rave that’s happening there. I don’t think I ever work. I love what I am doing. I am always thinking of work, but not

thinking of working. It is very rare for people to be doing something they really love, and I really love what I do.

Big in Japan

Actually, my favourite city in the world is Tokyo, not Paris. I feel so at home there, since I am so particular about being punctual. When you are in Tokyo, everything will happen, and nothing will go wrong. If somebody says they will see you at 5 o’clock, they will see you at 5, not even 5:05. It’s the only place in the world that is different from the rest of the world. Japanese people are emotional and sensitive, and I am totally on their level. Over there, people work hard; fashion is a job. I don’t see any Yohji Yamamotos coming out of India in the same way it happened in Japan in the ’80s. Here, everyone is a star. Can Indian designers run around carrying boxes or struggle, or take criticism? I don’t think so.

The ladies’ tailor

Bollywood’s influence on Indian fashion is more funny than annoying. It’s in bad taste, and I love bad taste, so I love it. (Laughs.) But seriously, I don’t want to take part in it – I love it from afar. Plus, everything looks the same. I cannot differentiate one designer’s work from another in Bollywood. If you put five Kareena Kapoor pictures in various outfits in front of me, they all look the same to me. I did try to

FA SHION

design for a big Bollywood movie. Halfway, I was getting calls and being told, “There’s a new character in a movie, and we’re shooting in Dehradun, so please can you send an assistant with the clothes?” I said, “Are you mad? I don’t want the money, I want to get out of the project.” The director understood where I was coming from. I left the project mid-way, and I have been offered films many times, but I don’t want to do it again. I’ve designed for some good weddings, but only with people who understand what I do and let me do what I want. When asked about my tattoo (ladies’ tailor on my arm), I told a journalist that we are all ladies’ tailors, including me. We do what people want. The woman tells you. Most of the designers will invariably cater to their clients demands. They’re not telling them what to wear next season. It’s easy to make money here in fashion, and most Indian designers are richer than I am. Look, people are jealous everywhere. You are what you are in the West because of your own individual style, which brings me back to why I am in Paris, because there is only one of me there. Everyone is different. YSL, Givenchy, they are all so individual. There is no jealousy.

Life’s greatest passions

I like different kinds of music, especially trance. Even though a lot of pop stars wear my stuff, I’m not a fan of pop music. Right now, I am obsessed with Nicolas Jaar. Most of my friends in New Delhi, besides being in fashion, are DJs like the Midival Punditz, or Jayant and Ashwin. I connect well with music and musicians. In Goa, I won’t listen to anything besides raves for 12-24 hours, three days at a stretch. I don’t

What you don’t know won’t hurt you

And... It’s showtime!

I am at my calmest right before a show. By then, what has to be done has been done. I am so un-calm when I am making the collection at my office, that by the time the show arrives, I have reached saturation point. If I am calm, others are influenced by this. When I had two shows in four days, I was strangely at ease and quite comfortable backstage. I don’t even know which celebs see my show: Katy Perry came and sat for one when I didn’t even know who she was. She wore one of my dresses afterwards. Kanye West was sitting for one my shows and, again, I didn’t even know who he was.

FEB — MAR 2013

get out of Hilltop (a large trance party venue) on those days, for three days in a row. I take my backpack, toilet paper, a change of underwear and T-shirt, and don’t leave for three days. I can live like that. I’ve been to the Glastonbury music festival and Burning Man alone. Burning Man is quite an experience. It’s eight days with 70,000 people on the Nevada, U.S. desert with no mobile or internet access, and no money. You take everything with you for eight days, like water for showering and drinking, and your camper. You enter, and suddenly you are no longer selfish. Because you’re giving and sharing

I always wake up in the morning and say life is beautiful. Maybe people don’t know this: I am a very happy person. I enjoy everything; you can put me anywhere, and I am fine. It’s when you’re not happy, that’s when you look for solace elsewhere. I am neither religious nor spiritual. I don’t do poojas in my office, not even for Diwali. I just don’t believe in it. The only festival I enjoy is Holi, but that’s just for the fun aspect of it. I don’t think one should do something on a particular day just because everybody else is doing it. I don’t go to temples; I don’t visit churches or anything like that. I’ve not even gone to Notre Dame de Paris. If I do go to a new place as a tourist, then I may see a place of worship, but not because of any belief. I am logical, so I can be quite anal. Maybe this is because I am a Virgo! I don’t like to leave things to chance. I’m quite planned and organized in my mind. But if you look at my house, it’s a mess. I can’t fold anything, and my cupboard is useless; it’s all over the place. But in my mind, I have great logic. And I can deal with tough situations very, very well. I have some rules too: for example, I don’t brush my teeth on Sundays. And my one indulgence is alcohol!

1994

2000

2002

2005

2007

Graduates from NIFT, New Delhi

Debuts at first-ever Indian Fashion Week

Opens flagship Manish Arora Fish Fry in New Delhi

Exhibits work at the V&A, London.

Another Exhibition at the V&A, London, showing a retrospective of his London Fashion Week collections

1997

whatever you can. It was the most amazing experience I’ve had, the most overwhelming. It’s euphoria. You will make 70,000 friends without knowing each other. I wish life was like that, but good things don’t last forever. I usually take one holiday per year, which has so far been in Goa. And from now on, it will be Burning Man and Goa. Apart from that, I travel a lot. And when I do, I make sure I take one or two days off. I like to explore a place, instead of hopping from place to place. When I went to Turkey, I ended up staying only in Istanbul for eight days.

Makes an entry at Hong Kong Fashion Week

Launches his own label 'Manish Arora' and starts retailing in India

2001 Launches second label 'Fish Fry'

Debuts at India Fashion Week, Mumbai

Debuts at London Fashion Week

2004 Partners with Reebok to launch Fish Fry for Reebok

Debuts at Paris Fashion Week

I’ve been told I have a strange voice. It’s my father’s voice. It could be genetic, I don’t know. Other people think it’s because I smoke too much. But I smoke just as much as anybody else I know... I am a very detached person. My friends say I’m quite emotional, but I can be alone anywhere. I am highly independent, and often relish being alone. My favourite time is usually spent in the aircraft. I love taking flights in spite of taking one every weekend for a whole year. Even after flying so much, I still get excited when I am at an airport. As I enter the plane, even now, I’ll be like, “Wow, I’m inside. I can finally be alone, and watch my favourite movies.”

Dressing up, and the ideal woman

My customer doesn’t belong to any particular age group. She is a confident woman, and loves to stand out in public. I never wanted to dress anyone famous intentionally, and it’s always happened. If I said Lady Gaga is one of my clients, it’s not about one person. My dream is to see random people on the street wearing my clothes. It gives me pleasure to observe a woman crossing the street wearing my clothes. That’s a bigger high than seeing a celebrity wearing my clothes. I take pictures of people on streets wearing my clothes. Unfortunately, people in India don’t walk on streets. In fact, one of the things I love about Paris is that you don’t have to dress up for a reason. People here say, “Oh I have to go home after office to change my clothes before a party.” I tell them, “You should have dressed up before. Why do you have to go home to change your clothes?” I fully dress up to go to my office. You don’t need an occasion. You dress up because you want to.

Designers to love

I liked Balenciaga with Nicolas Ghesquière, but now he’s left. One of my all-time favourite designers, whom I also know personally, is Christopher Kane. We started out at the same time in London. What he has done for himself is really beautiful – he is so young and doing very well. He also thinks I am a good designer. (Laughs.) But we are totally different. I am not a fan of America. It’s a different culture, totally. Their fashion is a phase. I have been asked to do New York Fashion Week, but I am very happy where I am. I just want to progress with that. Everything comes and

goes, but but French brands live forever.

The next leap

I have no intention of leading a posh life...I am happy taking my bicycle for a spin. I like to take every year step by step, but I also know I don’t want to work all my life. I want to enjoy life. I have no intention of becoming a multimillionaire. I just want to reach a certain level, and do things as they come. I have no intention of running around when I am 50, for example. I don’t want to work too hard, after all.

2009 Swatch collection launched internationally

2008 Adventures of a Ladies’ Tailor aired on TV

Pommery Champagne launched Designs campaign for ABSOLUT Vodka Elected member of Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-â-Porter des Couturiers

2010 Creates Manish Arora for Nespresso campaign Features in an ad campaign for Swaroski Elements

2011

2012

Debuts at Paco Rabanne as creative director

Happy Socks for Happy Kids project

Creates limited-edition pastry for Café de la Paix Collaborates with Monoprix to launch capsule collection

Collaborates with Amrapali to launch jewellery line Collaborates with Biba to launch Indian by Manish Arora

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Partners with M.A.C

Nivea Soft limited edition body cream launched

CITY TALK

Old City, New Sights He grew up with old world culture in his blood. She was the curious tourist who could never get enough photographs. Together they take a walk down the lanes of Old Delhi and reminisce over old and new discoveries alike. TEXT BY AASHMITA NAYAR

discovered some keen photographers in the embassy, with whom I’ve been visiting a variety of places for the last six months. But we tend to go very early in the mornings. So one sees things very differently than later in the day when Chandni Chowk slowly comes to life. I’ll admit that we were quite unguided earlier.

SY Quraishi: It interests me to realize that you have a keen interest in culture, and in old-world places. What’s amazing is that you have already been to Chandni Chowk several times before… Nancy J Powell: I lived here in the ’90s for two years and would occasionally visit Chandni Chowk. When I came back this time, I

SYQ: You know, I believe Delhi is the heart of India, and Chandni Chowk is the heart of Delhi. It represents the plural society that India is. The multicultural glimpses are astounding… When you start from Red Fort, you see five places of worship belonging to different religions. First is the Jain Mandir which is the oldest Jain mandir of Delhi. Adjoining it is the famous Gauri Shankar Temple. After that, there is Gurudwara Sisganj, followed by Moti Masjid. Right opposite is the Baptist Church. These places of worship have co-existed in beautiful harmony for over three centuries. Old Delhi has always been the melting pot not only of different religions, but different cultures and languages. In fact, Urdu was born here as the

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s New Delhi strives to reach new heights in modern, fast-paced living, a part of it has been left behind to quietly disintegrate in its mass of ancient architecture, tangled wires and dusty streets. But Chandni Chowk still retains a fiery spark that refuses to be extinguished by the new-fangled aesthetics of minimalism. As former Chief Election Commissioner, Shahabuddin Yaqoob Quraishi and United States Ambassador to India, H.E. Nancy J Powell, take a walk through Old Delhi’s busy streets on a wintry Sunday afternoon to prise out its secrets, they are met by a jumble of life, trade, religion, and culture that inevitably charms as it did several years ago…

common language of a mixed army of soldiers who had come with their kings from Persia, Turkey, and Afghanistan, and settled in Delhi. I was born and brought up not very far from where we visited, the southern side of Jama Masjid. Absolutely everything, from a pin to a helicopter, is available within that one kilometre stretching from Red Fort to Fatehpuri. NJP: And it is a business centre all around? SYQ: Yes! The biggest wholesale market of paper, the biggest hardware market in India and perhaps in Asia, is Chawri Bazaar. Nayi Sadak is the hub of all books, Kinari Bazaar is the place for embroidery, in close proximity to the jewellery market, Dariba Kalaan. But looking at your photographs made me feel as though we visited two different places! Things I have taken for granted, things that I never have noticed, you spotted… NJP: But you were kind enough to point out some of the good jalebi spots. (Laughs.) And I got to go inside a few buildings I wouldn't have entered with my colleagues, like that haveli...

Top: Her Excellency, the US Ambassador Nancy Powell smiles as former Chief Election Commissioner SY Quraishi reminisces about Old Delhi.

ILLUSTRATION: VAIBHAV FAUZDAR; PHOTOGRAPHY: HARI NAIR (FIRST & THIRD PAGE); VAIBHAV FAUZDAR (SECOND PAGE); AND NANCY POWELL (FOURTH PAGE).

around Dariba on a Sunday when the shops are closed isn’t half the fun, you never see the glitter of that place. We ended up in Khari Baoli, the spice market, which was open. NJP: Where was the place from where we had a beautiful view up on top of the buildings? SYQ: Chhunamal’s Haveli. That’s also mentioned in my book (Old Delhi: Living Traditions). But I did want to take you to the famous Paranthen Wali Gali. We did pass by it, but now it’s so unhygienic! NJP: Well I didn’t get to taste any jalebis the other day, but now I know where to go back to. SYQ: What was your impression of all the hustle and bustle? NJP: It can be overwhelming, but you realize that people are just going about their business, they’re not trying to disrupt anything. I am struck by the small circumference of the variety of cultures, religions, languages, and by the sort of go-get ’em attitude, to use an American expression, of just how hard people are working, and the energy they reflect.

SYQ: It’s not really as much an experience for the eyes and ears as it is for the nose when you go to the spice market... NJP: Nothing is frightening or off-putting, but it takes adjustment from the relative quiet of Chanakyapuri. The biggest thing there is an occasional truck horn or siren. It’s a fascinating piece of urban India, but then again this urban India is 700 years old in the minimum. I was very impressed by the two girls (Ritu and Taruna) who organized our tour. Not only did they take us around the best places, they also provided a running commentary in extraordinarily good English, of conversations

SYQ: That’s the Gauri Shankar temple. As for the art on the walls and ceilings of the Jain temple, they normally don’t allow photography. Fortunately, the president of the temple made an exception for us this time. NJP: You see, the Jain temple almost immediately when you come to the corner of Chandni Chowk, and when you get out, the Red Fort looms over everything. On the other routes we took, Jama Masjid is more dominant. SYQ: Did anything strike you in particular? NJP: What was exciting for me to see was 6-8 children crammed in a rickshaw going to school, dressed up in uniforms. It’s also fascinating to see how much care has been taken into preparing the vegetable displays. Every single eggplant is spotless. And this is on the street and not somebody’s nice bazaar. Help me with the name of the street we went down. It was a quiet street with the Jain families…?

Clockwise from top: An illustration of Jama Masjid; driving though the narrow roads on a rickshaw; The modern McDonald's surrounded by traditional stores in Chandni Chowk; Gunny bags stuffed with aromatic spices; A decorative door from a house in Naugharan.

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SYQ: What you saw was just 10 per cent of the crowd there is on an ordinary day. Driving

SYQ: That was a four-storeyed haveli behind Fatehpuri Masjid. But for the fog, we would have been able to see Red Fort from its rooftop. NJP: There’s a little courtyard that was filled with people’s warehouses, and the streets are filled with the pushcarts with big gunny sacks of chillies…and I started sneezing.

overheard… It’s an excellent way to show the diversity of the city and the nation in a very small area, and in a limited amount of time. I saw the art in the Jain temple after a long time and had forgotten just how beautiful the ceilings are, and some of the sculptures in the Hindu temple, which was very active that day…

CITY TALK

From left to right: Standing on the staircase at Roosevelt House in Chanakyapuri, New Delhi; The LCDI team with Her Excellency and Mr Quraishi.

SYQ: Yes, that was Naughara, the nine houses. They give a glimpse of the houses as they used to be. Small and compact, with ornate doors, they sit in a small street closed off at one end. NJP: Sparking clean! If you didn’t know about the street, you’d completely miss it. It is one of the side bazaar streets, isn’t it?

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SYQ: Again, you’re right. You know, the president of the state Congress, Jai Prakash Agarwal lives there. It was his house we went to. His father and my father were together in the Freedom movement as well the Municipal Corporation of Delhi. NJP: This helps derive an understanding of the things that are changing. I noticed an entire section crammed with Blackberry, Nokia, and Samsung and every type of electronic phone. Fifteen years ago, I don’t know what that would have been, but it certainly wouldn’t have been focused on communications. When I click pictures, I try to compile themes. One of these is on what people are eating on the street, such as those jalebis and the pakoras, and of course Karim’s…but I find it fascinating that there’s a McDonald’s in Chandni Chowk.

SYQ: You know, I was very nostalgic on the trip, especially after seeing Maharaja Lal and

Sons, a record store, that’s almost 150 years old. What used to be a grand shop, looks rather decrepit now. NJP: It’s a tough task to balance out people’s requirements and preserve old buildings. I’ve watched Kolkata over the years try to do this... I feel like Chandni Chowk is a piece of fabric, and there’re different kinds of weaves and threads that have somehow managed to create this beautiful, harmonious fabric. SYQ: Speaking of fabric, Chandni Chowk is filled with women shopping for clothes and jewellery. You’ll find the same saris that you could pick up in South Extension and Khan market at 25 per cent of the cost without any change in quality! NJP: I must admit that my colleagues go so early, I haven’t gotten to do a lot of shopping. Also, they are gentlemen so I don’t think they’re very interested, but I made a mental note. If you turn left at the jalebi store (laughs) and then the next right, you are in a street that’s full of embroideries from various Indian cities... SYQ: That’s Kinari Bazaar. Some people find it unfashionable to go to these places. Thirty years ago, an acquaintance picked up a pair of antique drawers at the Khazana Store in Taj Hotel on Man Singh Road. And an Ambassador of an Arab country, who was living in such opulence told him, “You must be very rich, because I go and do my shopping in Dariba!” You also get utensils and big copper vessels there… NJP: I saw a woman selling these bamboo tongs,

which I am sure are quite ordinary here and used to turn rotis with. In the US, however, especially if you go to a store like Williams-Sonoma, something like this would be considered exotic, and would be priced at at least $25. SYQ: The best part of the old-world charm that is fading is the composite living here. In the last 50-60 years, there’s been a lot of polarization. That is how ghettos develop and isolate communities. As a child, I grew up with my neighbours being Muslims, Hindus, and so on. That isn’t the case now. The government has not taken an adequate interest in preserving the multi-cultural habitation. Also, in India the sense of conservation is missing. Given the opportunity, they will take away precious stones from the Taj Mahal without a care. NJP: Maybe one should focus on the economic impact of preserving crafts and engineering that went into these places. Look at Kathmandu: preserving their temples has helped them become a mecca for tourism – we can do more for the old city. It’s like the two women who took us around on the rickshaws…a smart generation of income and appreciation of culture. SYQ: At least the metro has opened up in Old Delhi once again, otherwise traffic was a fright. Karim’s now peaks at 11am. You couldn’t have seen this, but if you are hungry at 2am or even 3am, the place to go to is Jama Masjid. It’s a foodies paradise and very cheap… a roti for one or two rupees, and the most delicious roti you get anywhere! And women are safer in Old Delhi. Even if you check the crime rates, crime in Old Delhi is the least because of the community: living in harmony is a style that is just ingrained in them.

“I feel like Chandni Chowk is a piece of fabric, and there’re different kinds of weaves and threads that have somehow managed to create this beautiful, harmonious fabric.” US Ambassador Nancy Powell Seeing the old city the smart way... practices, and in the afternoon to see the markets. What you should carry with you: A camera! What to wear: Anything comfortable; avoid wearing revealing shirts or short dresses How to get to your ride: The group meets at Digambar Jain Temple (opposite Red Fort Main Gate). Park at Red Fort Parking. Metro: Get down at Chandni Chowk Station (Yellow Line), exit from gate #5. Walk or take a rickshaw to the meeting point. www.wheninindia.com; 09818176637

Top: Early morning vistas and visages of Old Delhi captured by the US Ambassador's lens.

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Services offered: Started in October 2011, When in India Tours explore Old Delhi in special rickshaws. Timings: There are fixed group tours in the morning with options for private customized tours through the day. The team: Ritu Kalra, chartered accountant, is a former financial head in a top corporate house; Taruna Nagpal, is occupational therapist and an MBA from University of Notre Dame, USA. Duration of tour: The duration is from 1½-3 hours. Refreshments are provided. Best time to visit: In the morning to see the age-old

CITY TALK

Silver Spoons This aficionado of antiques, glassware, and silverware is a present-day pasha who’s taken his passion for collecting to new levels. TEXT BY PRIYA KUMARI RANA / PHOTOGRAPHS BY YATINDER KUMAR

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B 92

rewer and restaurateur Sanjiv Bali’s Chhattarpur, New Delhi home is a labour of love. A love of fine, artistic pieces, and a passion that began with a childhood obsession for collecting ornate pieces of art, furniture, and chandeliers, some of them gifted by his parents, and some picked up on travels abroad, during old market runs, and palace visits. He is especially fond of silverware, fine glass and porcelain pieces, and paintings, many of which are collectors’ items.

When he moved into his house four years ago, the two-storey, four-bedroom building was still under construction. Even though it was a place he’d taken on rent (while he waits for his own farmhouse to be built in the same area), he was keen to convert what was an essentially modern farmhouse, with its linear, airy spaces, into a traditional Indian home reminiscent of an ornate Rajasthani haveli, replete with nooks and crannies that accommodated his various objets d’art and silver knick-knacks.

The 50-year-old entrepreneur and MD of Mount Shivalik Breweries grew up in New Delhi but remembers his earliest visits to Rajasthan as a child, since his family owned a beer distillery there. After establishing his fine-dining restaurants in rapid succession at Amber Fort in Jaipur and Hanuman Mahal in Jodhpur, as well as a polo club in Jaipur, the trips became more frequent. Today, he spends almost 15 days a month there (staying at his farmhouse in Jaipur), and adds to his décor

Top: The expansive, embellished living room features custom-made and antique silver furniture from Rajasthan and New Delhi.

would gladly go back to the more genteel era of candlelight, sans electricity, effectively explaining the multitude of ornate Indonesian candle-shaped tea-lights – placed around a Thai temple dancer in wood and beneath an ornate golden mirror, both recent additions picked up from Bangkok. The ornate Oriental corner reflects Bali’s love for things that are, in his own words, “a bit over the top, but that’s the way I’ve always been”. A gold-lamé quilted sofa that sits adjacent to a floor-to-ceiling window overlooking a green lawn, completes this gilded corner. Directly beneath the white Osler chandelier is a large circular marble-topped antique table from Rajasthan that carries silver-framed family photos – of his wife Kavita and children Divya, Shreya, and Siddhant. A little further, a blackand-white onyx table from Pakistan doubles as a giant chess set, complete with carved onyx chess pieces. An antique wall piano, from the

palace of Bikaner, laden with tea-lights and old European clocks forms an elegant corner. Undoubtedly, the pièce de résistance of the Bali residence is its sprawling living room. Laden with silver furniture and artefacts, with four quaint seating areas at each corner, and two ‘thrones’ placed right under a Venetianstyle mirror, the space invites guests to witness Bali’s own private durbar. Magnificent Lladró porcelain items (he has some 50-odd pieces) of horses, mermaids, and young Victorian couples, pepper the space, each with their own certificates and edition number. “The oldest Lladró I bought was about 25 years ago. They’re all limited edition. The new generation won’t even see some of these pieces,” says Bali. Elsewhere, on a glass-topped table, Lalique glass animal figurines in amber, black, and white, of cheetahs and panthers jostle for space. Most of these pieces have been purchased on trips abroad. “Sometimes I want a particular

Clockwise from top left: An upright piano from the royal palace of Bikaner; Sanjiv Bali stands in front of life-size portrait of his; Crystal carafes from the Czech Republic; Lalique vases add a touch of France to Bali's Chhattarpur house.

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collection by visiting his favourite silversmiths in the Pink City, as well as Kheratilal & Sons in Janpath, New Delhi. He’s been scouring palaces and havelis for years for unique finds: “I buy my pieces indirectly from the owners; they send me pictures, and I see if the items fit in with what I am looking for in terms of period and style,” says Bali. The moment you enter the house into a large marbled foyer that serves as an atrium of sorts, connecting to the first floor via a gigantic winding staircase, the first thing that strikes the eye is the ornate crystal chandelier that drips below, one of many in the house. “These are Oslers”, says the immaculately dressed Bali, referring to the legendary London and Birmingham cut-crystal chandelier manufacturer F&C Osler, “and were bought three years ago by my parents from the royal palaces of Bikaner.” But despite his fascination for elaborate lights, if he had his way, he

CITY TALK

“You can have all the money in the world, but you need the will to spend on these objects.”

The living room has been upholstered inhouse by a local expert, who was told to use silks and velvets in the drapery for a plush, formal look. The walls feature delicate flowers, which are hand-painted by a karigar from Rajasthan in the typical style of that region. Bali used to host up to 200 guests at his legendary dinner parties, but seems to have cut back on his entertaining of late, since he prefers smaller dos, that are in fact impossible, given the architecture of the house, since “either you call everybody, or nobody”. Back in the airy lobby, a short corridor walk away, a glass-doored dining room – the picture of opulence – invites guests to the Balis’ many gastronomical delights. At the entrance, two maps grace the walls, both Raj-era Indian maps found in a flea-market in Scotland. “This is a detailed map of undivided India, that shows the smallest of thikanas, plus Lahore, all the way to Tibet!” says Bali. A handsome bronze statue from England showing fox-hunters in action on ponies, elicits admiration. Inside the dining room, the chairs are fashioned in silver, again custom-made, while the cabinetry is done by a New Delhi-based furniture-maker. The mirrors, also in the Venetian style found in the living room, are made in the capital. A glass-faced cabinet stocks crockery from England’s Buckingham palace shop as well as designer porcelainware by Versace, and old family silver tea sets. An old Persian rug, acquired by Bali’s father, hangs on the wall opposite, while a side table displays an antique silver hookah and bowls of various sizes. When asked about his fascination for collecting antiques, and objets décoratifs in precious metals and glass, Bali says it’s all about passion. “You can have all the money in the world, but you need the will to spend on these objects. Your passion will take you to a different level,” he says. “I recently went to the Czech Republic to look for chandeliers. I didn’t see anything I liked: they are sourcing them from China now!” He did find good crystal pieces in antique shops, though, but sadly, Moser is one of the only brands available there now. “There is nothing exciting to buy there anymore,” he says. Bali’s next venture is to open a lifestyle store in Jaipur. “I want my showroom to be like my drawing room. It will be in Civil Lines, Jaipur, and is called 1135 AD Lifestyle, because people connect to 1135 AD (the name of his Amber Fort restaurant). This will be my first foray into retail business. A lot of people have been after me to do up their homes. Sometimes, one does over-extend oneself. For example, in my Amber restaurant, we used pure gold on the ceiling, which cost me a fortune. If anyone else had to do it, they’d never use real gold,” he smiles, proudly like a king in his silver courtyard.

Top: A large, glass-topped table holds elegant Italian crockery, setting off the ornate silver chairs. Below from left to right: An English crockery set bought from the Buckingham Palace shop; an elegant antique paan holder; a delicate crystal centrepiece.

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piece, like this one,” says Bali pointing to a panther looking backwards, “but in amber; and I made the mistake of not buying it the minute I saw it in the shop. Now it’s no longer available, in spite of having registered for the piece, because it’s been discontinued.” It seems that everywhere, Bali has eschewed the modern for the classic. “I don’t like modern art at all. I like things that are expressive,” he says. A row of vases in different colours, again by Lalique, grace a side window, with Grecian dancers twisted around each in a variety of poses. Versace vases and coloured Bohemian crystal carafes from Prague stand on a layered drinks trolley, above a row of tea-lights from Dubai. A small table houses the ‘Ram Darbar’ a triad of silver sculptures from Italy representing the holy trinity of Lord Ram and Sita, Lakshman, and even a praying Lord Hanuman, while another has a base that replicates the shape of a statue in Mumbai, made entirely out of cast iron and weighing 300kg. “I needed eight people to bring it in,” laughs Bali. Everywhere, the gleam of silver points to a myriad decorative pieces – vases, bowls, frames, boxes, even a silver car that doubles as a supari holder. “My silverware is from the best guy in Jaipur, the owner of the Miss India store. Their handiwork is unreal,” says Bali. He also shops from a store called Amrapali. There’s a silver pooja set on display, and this time it’s an antique. Most of the silver furniture is crafted in Rajasthani style, a combination of antique pieces from erstwhile royal collections, and Vinay Bhandari’s custommade pieces from Udaipur. A unique silver table in a corner of the house, is made to order from Kheratilal & Sons in New Delhi, who was also commissioned to decorate Dholpur Palace in Rajasthan. Next to one of the thrones sits an antique shield in wood, bearing a silver plaque, which belonged to the late Maharaja Karni Singh of Bikaner when he was a young prince. The plaque bears the names of the winning players in a cricket tournament in 1946, of the maharaja’s club, Thunderbolt. This piqued Bali’s interest, whose beer brand shares the same name, and he added the plaque to his collection. As for the paintings that hang on the walls, one of Bali’s favourites is by an artist called Prithvi Soni. A Vijender Sharma occupies pride of place on the centre left of the front wall. “Sharma never paints faces, yet the images are expressive and powerful; they look almost three-dimensional,” says Bali. A portrait of Bali and his wife Kavita has been painted by an Ahmedabad-based artist, who sent his painting, copied out of the pages of a magazine article about the Balis, on a lark to Bali. Much appreciation later, he is a sought-after portraitist today.

CITY TALK

Kochi-Muziris Art Biennale

Against All Odds

The Kochi-Muziris Art Biennale, the first such event of the country, marks a new beginning for the art world in India. TEXT BY TREESHA DATTA

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very great invention begins with a simple idea. And so it was when artists Riyas Komu and Bose Krishnamachari dreamt a simple dream of bringing one of the world’s biggest art events to India. To put together this mega event, they worked round the clock for over a year, warded off several challenges that came their way, and are finally successfully hosting the ongoing debut Kochi-Muziris Art Biennale from 12 December 2012 to 13 March 2013 (on the lines of the Venice Art Biennale), branding ‘Kochi’ as the biennale city of India. The secretary of the Biennale, V Sunil, talks about its genesis, the difficulties faced, and candid moments amidst the frenzied activity.

For the layman: what is an art biennale? Broadly defined, the word ‘biennale’ means an event that takes place every two years. It began in Venice about 106 years ago, but is now organized in several countries. It mostly happens in a satellite town, and not the capital city. For example, in the UK it happens in Liverpool; they don’t have a London biennale. It’s not a commercial venture, so you can’t sell art. Typically what happens is that the international Biennal Foundation funds the artist’s work, or sometimes the galleries. The theme of the biennale is decided upon by the

curator, based on which he/she will brief artists from all over the world. The curator changes every year in every biennale. This is the first time that an event organizer is also the art curator. Bose is the curator, while Riyaz is the programming director. This year’s theme welcomes projects that have a connection to the land of Kerala, and Kochi in particular. Why was Kochi chosen as the biennale city? This is a question we’ve been asked often, but now, when people see the location, they understand that we could not have done it anywhere else. One experiences a lot of culture here; not many places have that. Rajasthan somewhat compares, and elsewhere in the country of course there are pockets of culture; but in Kochi you can actually feel it. Parts of the city appear to resemble Venice. Some of the buildings are living monuments. All our galleries are housed in two- or three-centuryold buildings, and in warehouses. It’s a beautiful location. Muziris was also part of the Spice Route. What is the historical significance of Muziris? It was originally called Muziri, not Muziris, and was actually Mucciri (in Tamil) city, the original Spice Route entry point to the 2,000-year-old port of Kerala, where spice trading began. Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Jews,

Portuguese, Dutch, British, and Chinese all came to Muziris to buy and sell a variety of spices and trade in other wares as well. The city is also home to India’s first church, Mar Thoma Church, and the country’s first mosque, Cheraman Juma Masjid, as well as the oldest European monument, the Portuguese Fort. The Jews also left a couple of synagogues. Now the government is funding the restoration of the entire place. The Muziris Heritage project is a heritage conservation drive that aims to link surrounding monuments spread over the entire area; it will open a number of museums over the region, almost like a walk through the last few thousand years of Kerala’s history. The Biennale helps spread this awareness. Was introducing the event to India a smooth sail? Did you face any obstacles? Yes. A major part of our finances were supposed to be funded by the government; it was supposed to be a private-public partnership. But after the elections, the government changed. Before that, we received an initial amount of `5 crore from the government; they were supposed to give us much more. It’s surprising how in spite of being a culture-rich country, we don’t have a single world-class gallery in India. We used most of the money we got to fix one of the galleries, Darbar Hall, which is

Top: Subodh Gupta's project shows life's struggles – the departure from trying times towards a better tomorrow.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY: KOCHI-MUZIRIS ART BIENNALE

now one of the best in Asia. This was the first mistake we made. We shouldn’t have spent it all on that one gallery. Due to the renovations and immense preparations, many local artists began to feel threatened, which ignited a huge controversy about money being misused. The new government ordered an inquiry into the trust, because of which we could not get access to more money. Now they are realizing the Biennale’s potential, because it has really boosted tourism. There were other minor constraints too, like artists’ volunteers disappearing after a few days of work, goods stuck at customs, and bus strikes. I am not giving excuses, it’s just that we will be better prepared for the future.

Tell us about some of the artworks and the theme inspiring this event... All the works are connected to Kerala and Kochi as a land; that is the Biennale’s theme. The international artists’ works also imbibe something about their homelands, which are still in ways associated with Kerala or Kochi. The artists have created fresh works for the Biennale. For example, Gupta’s contribution is a complete departure from his normal oeuvre. A broken boat, stitched back together and full of old items from everyday life, tells the story of a struggle, like people migrating from turbulent times towards something better. After the event finishes, the pieces go back to the artists or the organization who have funded their work. Some

pieces may even remain as permanent fixtures: we have two excavation projects in Muziris; I don’t know how these can go anywhere, being permanent archeaological sites. Then there is an artist called Daniel Connell, who has been making detailed portraits of random people. He has done these renditions on public walls so his creations will be washed away with the onset of the monsoons. It’s a humbling experience. There are also several forms of video art and various installations, a memorable one by Joseph Semah whose performance at the opening spread religious harmony as a message, attracting the attention of everyone in the vicinity. Tell us about some of your enjoyable experiences. Every night after work, people would be lounging about at a hotel, which is owned by a friend who also owns the Kashi Gallery, a Biennale venue. Sometimes at dinner, you had actor John Abraham in one place, Sri Lankan rapper M.I.A. somewhere else; it was fantastic. Even when the Chief Minister of Kerala came we had lots to do – finish the inauguration, the party, the dinner. But the nicest part was next morning, when we had a flag-hoisting event with some of the artists and the trustees. Kochi-Muziris Art Biennale; www.kochimuzirisbiennale.org; (0484) 221 5297

Clockwise from top left: LN Tallur's installation Veni, Vidi, Vici I came, I saw, I conquered; Sheela Gowda and Christoph Storz's Stopover; Daniel Connell's charcoal wall portraits.

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How have you managed to pull off the event, in spite of these issues? Each location and property for the Biennale has been loaned to us free of charge, such as Aspinwall House, a large sea-facing property in Fort Kochi; where 60 per cent of the exhibition is being held. This was made possible by exmodel Feroze Gujral, who got her husband's company, DLF, to give the property to us. Help has also come from other quarters, especially BMW and the Australian High Commission. Several renowned artists such as Subodh Gupta and Vivan Sundaram have also funded their own projects. All 10 venues, where the event is

being held, have been donated, including places such as Pepper House by the docks, a former godown, the Kashi Art Gallery, and Parade Ground, which has helped reduce our budget drastically. The Mayor of Kochi has also been a big help. A couple of months before the event, he even declared Kochi as the Biennale city. Even the excitement within the city has been magnified by the locals, which is gratifying. Children are selling coconut water, calling it ‘biennale’ water. If you get off at a boat jetty, and ask an auto rickshaw to take you to the Biennale office, they know exactly where to go.

HARVESTING PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY: THE FARM AT SAN BENITO

Health

This organic spa resort in the Philippines ensures optimum health and a sound mind through a myriad ways – from home-grown raw foods to providing bespoke health packages.

TEXT BY TREESHA DATTA

the World’ from SENSES, Germany, the Asia Spa award for ‘Holistic Treatment of the Year’, and the Spa Finder Reader’s Choice award last year. The Farm has had its share of celebrities too; Hollywood star Woody Harrelson and members of rock band Coldplay have visited the resort. The Farm calls itself a unique ‘healing holiday destination’ that offers guests complete rejuvenation via holistic therapies, fitness programmes, and most importantly, superior nutrition through fresh, organic, and enzyme-rich food, grown at the resort’s very own organic farm. The farm has only 32 suites and villas, and sits on 50 hectares of land surrounded by a dense jungle of tall trees wrapped in furry cloaks of green moss. The resort also adopts several eco-friendly practices in tandem with its organic culture and ecologically designed architecture by architects Walter Wagner and Noel Saratan: “We are slowly shifting to the use

of LED lights, and encourage guests and staff alike to practice conservation measures. Every day should be Earth Day,” says Jennifer Hazen, the spa’s resident manager. The staff even uses natural mosquito repellants such as citronella and neem, and bio-degradable bath products made from The Farm’s virgin coconut oil, which is also available to buy. Plastic, glass, metal, wood, and paper waste is separated and sent to a recycling facility while plant waste, derived as a by-product of landscape maintenance, is converted into nutrient-rich compost. The biggest attraction of The Farm, however, is its one-hectare organic garden. Seasonal fruit and vegetables, coffee, avocados, pineapples, and bananas are harvested at the resort, while 4,000 coconut trees yield their quota of coconuts. Almost 75 per cent of the organic vegetable produce is beautifully served as part of the resort’s healthy ‘living’ cuisine at their in-house vegan restaurant ALIVE!. According

Top: Experience serendipity at the poolside of the Healing Sanctuary at The Farm at San Benito.

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ucked away amidst rolling hills, in a valley between Mount Malarayat and Mount Makulot in the Philippines, is a one-of-a-kind spa resort. Located in Lipa City, often referred to as ‘the Rome of Philippines’, The Farm at San Benito – also known as The Farm – has been healing weary bodies (and minds) for over a decade, and is a far cry from your stereotypical spa. Even with around a hundred spas in this archipelago nation of approximately 7,000 islands, this is the only resort destination in the country that offers natural and holistic programmes that address lifestyle diseases such as diabetes, obesity, hypertension, and even cancer care. Launched by New Delhi-based hotelier and entrepreneur Naresh Khattar in 2002, The Farm prides itself on being a place of healing. It has won 25 prestigious international awards, including ‘Best Medical Wellness Resort in

WELLNESS

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Top: The farm has over 4,000 coconut trees from which pure virgin oil is extracted, and is available for purchase. It is used to make bio-degradable bath products; Left: The waterfall pool.

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to The Farm’s general manager Michael Di Lonardo: “You are what you eat, so the saying goes. This is where we come in. Over the past 10 years, our own chefs as well as those visiting from abroad have experimented, formulated, and revised a number of recipes that are creative, super-nutritional, and satisfying all at once. All dishes eschew meat, fish, fowl, and other animal products. Not only are healthy cooking techniques such as low-temperature steaming used, but most importantly, several innovative raw-food preparation techniques such as dehydrating, blending, fermenting, sprouting, and marinating, have been perfected,” he says. The Farm goes by the premise that raw foods are not only full of pure flavours and textures, but also high in fibre, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants as well as enzymes – crucial catalysts for bodily functions. Usually, these valuable enzymes are destroyed when foods are heated above 45°C. Thus the food served here is only 15 per cent cooked.

The benefits of the healthy diet are, of course doubled, when teamed with excellent spa therapies at the Healing Sanctuary, the in-house spa, which offers an extensive menu of signature treatments, indigenous Filipino healing rituals, and European as well as Asian massages. Signature treatments include the Stimulating Treatment and Detoxifying Treatment, and the Yin Yang Body Polish (priced to start at `10,534). The former eliminates naturally trapped toxins, fat, and unwanted waste in the lymph system and skin layers to improve circulation and battle cellulite. This is done by a skin kayud or scraping, followed by an application of a Barako coffee pack to the entire body for a natural detox. The latter treatment uses curcumin – an integral part of medicinal healing for the locals of the Negro Islands, Philippines – that is packed with antioxidants to repair skin damage. Other popular treatments include traditional Filipino therapies like Hilot Haplos (an aromatic

cocoa body scrub followed by a warm coconut cream bath, and a massage). After the bath, a luxurious Hilot massage soothes the last of a weary city-goer’s worries away. The resort also offers integrated medical services that treats lifestyle-related diseases such as digestive disorders, obesity, diabetes, hypertension, dermatitis, and other chronic ailments. Each programme is bespoke and designed specifically to suit the client. “You can even go in just for the Preventive Programme: This involves a colon hydrotherapy and targeted organic cleansing for a full-body detox, followed by a medically guided fast that uses pure vegetable juices and superfood supplements. A minimum stay for this programme is four nights/five days,” says Hazen. These powerful transformative sessions for beauty or medical treatments are supervised by a highly qualified team of experts including doctors, licenced therapists, chefs, and fitness consultants. “The most popular health retreat

“The Farm has 32 suites and villas, and sits on 50 hectares of land surrounded by a dense jungle of tall trees wrapped in furry cloaks of green moss. The resort also combines eco-friendly practices with organic produce and green architecture.” is the Organic Weight Loss programme, specially created to include The Farm’s awardwinning ALIVE! detox meals,” says Hazen. Even sans treatments, there are simpler pleasures to be enjoyed at The Farm, to unwind and relax. Play a leisurely game of golf or participate in the exotic workout routines: a particularly fun routine is the ‘Trampoline Dance’) at the Jungle Gym. Or lounge around in the natural waterfall pool – a perfect blend of the natural and the modern as time stops still. A 90-minute drive, or a 25-minute private helicopter charter from the Ninoy Aquino International airport in Manila, The Farm is at its most inviting from December through March. However, according to Hazen, the rainy ‘green’ season, from June to September is ideal for detox and cleansing. “That is when Mother Nature heals, nourishes, and recharges herself, and so should you,” she says. www.thefarm.com.ph; +63 (2) 884 8074

From top to bottom: A bedroom in Narra Villa; A night view of the terrace of the ALIVE! restaurant; The organic farm plantation; A yoga class in progress at the Amphitheatre.

SPORTS

The Jewel in Polo’s Crown

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ROYAL SALUTE MAHARAJA OF JODHPUR GOLDEN JUBILEE CUP

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After nearly a century since it began its global dominance in polo, Jodhpur’s royal sport is set for a revival in the Blue City, with top-notch talent and fabulous events. It makes a comeback on the world stage, led by the pioneering efforts of the Maharaja of Jodhpur and Royal Salute Chivas Brothers Limited, writes Priya Kumari Rana

The dream is alive. The dream to put Jodhpur polo back on the world map, where it belongs. And no one does it better than Royal Salute and the inheritor of the Jodhpur legacy, the Maharaja of Jodhpur, Gaj Singhji II. Now in its fourth year, the Royal Salute Maharaja of Jodhpur Golden Jubilee Cup is a 10- goal tournament sponsored by the makers of a leading premium whisky, under the Maharaja’s patronage. It hosts the country’s best players, international talent, formidable parties, and cultural events at the historical venues of Umaid Bhawan Palace and the Mehrangarh Palace in Jodhpur and of course, celebrates great polo. It all began in 1922, when the then Jodhpur team, the ‘dream team’, led by Jodhpur’s legendary horseman and polo player, Sir Pratap Singh, and consisting of four formidable players - my great grandfather Thakur Dalpat Singh of Rohet, an eight-handicap player, included – defeated team Patiala in New Delhi at the Prince of Wales Cup finals – and created history in ‘the greatest game ever played’. Cut back to present-day India. It’s 30 December, 2012, and the Royal Salute Maharaja of Jodhpur Golden Jubilee Cup has come to

an exciting end, with the 61st Cavalry team, led by Colonel Navjit Sandhu claiming victory over team EFG. An eventful week of parties and events sponsored by Royal Salute Chivas Brothers Limited – there was even a night-time camel polo game organized for the ladies in a camp in nearby Osian – comes to a close, with a New Year’s Eve celebration at Mehrangarh Fort hosted by the Maharaja himself. It’s heady stuff, whisky and polo. “Polo is the king of sports; Royal Salute is the king of whisky, which makes for a good combination,” says Peter Prentice, heritage director of Chivas Brothers. He says his company first sponsored a polo tournament in Shanghai in 2006 (they already support polo in nine countries including Argentina, USA, Italy, and Spain, besides UK), and turned its eye on India, after Prentice met with Maharaja Gaj Singhji in 2009. “India ruled polo in the ’20s and ’30s, so it became an obvious choice,” says Prentice. “I asked His Highness if he was interested in a partnership to revive Jodhpur polo, to continue the momentum that had been started by his son Yuvraj Shivraj, the real inspiration behind the revival of polo in

Top: The Maharaja of Jodhpur, Gaj Singhji II in front of his art deco palace, Umaid Bhawan Palace, the largest private residence in the world; Opposite page: The champions, 61st Cavalry, in action against their opponents.

the ’90s.” The environment was perfect, there was an appetite for polo here, and one “couldn’t find a more generous host and promoter of Jodhpur than His Highness”. So his team came to Jodhpur, to sponsor this end of the year tournament and extravaganza, that is making a mark in the world. “India is fashionable at the moment, and when we run an event like this with the Maharaja, people are interested,” says Prentice, quoting instances of celebrities like Madonna, Liz Hurley, and Naomi Campbell thronging the city to celebrate weddings and birthdays. “Last year, we had the first 20-goal polo match here in decades,” says Prentice. “We’re here to help develop Indian polo at its best, and want to have foreigners come in to play adding style and quality,” says Prentice. He adds that the peripheral events, the camel polo, the ‘J Oscars’ (for those who have gone beyond the call of duty for polo), and the ‘Panchranga’ (based on the five colours of the flag of former Jodhpur State, and given to outstanding players) celebrate the spectators and participants, those who support the game on or off the field – something not seen anywhere else in the world. He also says that the Maharaja of Jodhpur wants to leverage polo to support this equestrian sport in the region. Maharaja Gaj Singhji “grew up with stories on polo, at the time it was coming to an end here”. That is when he realized its heritage and spirit, and wanted to revive the sport once he returned to his home town after studies in England in the ’60s. “We started organizing horse shows and gradually moved towards polo,” he says. “When we began our focus on polo (in the ’90s), my son Shivraj took a great interest in it. I would travel with him abroad; I was also Vice President of the Indian Polo Association,” says Gaj Singhji. “I am also

Ambassador for the Federation of Indian Polo, so I enjoy the game, but don’t play it.” He says he set up the present polo grass ground in 1993. When Prentice came forward with the suggestion of sponsoring an event in Jodhpur, Maharaja Gaj Singhji didn’t hesitate. “The association is excellent. They have a good media campaign, and Jodhpur and the game both get promoted, so we benefitted from hotels getting full, so the whole city benefits.” He hopes to attract more international players like 10-goaler Carlos Gracida (who participated last year), and professionals who play for other teams.

“I’ve attended the Royal Salute tournament in Dubai, the Desert Palm, but nothing compares to this,” says four-goaler Uday Kalaan, whose team EFG made it to the finals. “The people of Jodhpur, the whole town is involved, and the setting can’t be better. This year, we saw some of our best polo in the last four years of the tournament, especially with the professional umpires.” He says he gets a lot of calls from people from all over the world wanting to come and play in this tournament. Umpire Jason Dixon, who was captain of the UK polo team, and has taken part in three world championships, says, “Jodhpur with its

polo background is like a mecca to me, a hidden jewel, and the festivities in December make it really social, with a great atmosphere,” he says. “The Indian players I umpire are very good. I have only met one six-goal player Shamsher Ali (who played in this tournament). There seem to be many younger players as well.” He says that to play a higher level of polo, more 15-20 goal tournaments need to come in, so that the “ceiling is raised”. Players should also try going abroad in the off-season, which can get expensive, if one take one’s own horses. He suggests designing seasons for all – beginners, medium, and high-level players – especially given the interest by corporate sponsors. He says the Jodhpur polo event is set to be “explosive” and should continue to invite more British players and international umpires, who’re impartial, and not connected to the teams, which only helps raise the game standards. “This is a strong tournament, very competitive, and equally tough on players and horses. It’s the most prestigious in the country, and amazing to have under one’s belt,” says Colonel Sandhu of winning team, 61st Cavalry. “Jodhpur and Royal Salute work pretty well. We have a blue bottle, and the colour of Jodhpur city is blue. It’s a partnership that is natural; it’s a win-win. ” says Prentice. And this year, to celebrate the Maharaja’s diamond jubilee – Gaj Singhji inherited the now ceremonial title from his father 60 years ago – a special ball was held at the Umaid Bhawan Palace, with a fashion show by designer Raghavendra Rathore. Maharaja Gaj Singhji was presented with the rarest of the rare scotch blends in a stunning crystal decanter, with a whisky for each decade since he became a maharaja. The perfect homage to the scion of the legend of Jodhpur polo.

SPORTS

The Greatest Game Ever Played Siddharth Singh, Jodhpur-based hotelier, polo commentator, and great-grandson of polo great Dalpat Singh Rohet recounts: “Jodhpur’s famous polo ‘Dream Team’ consisted of Sir Pratap’s protegés, Raoraja Hanut Singh, Prithi Singh Bheda, Thakur Dalpat Singh Rohet, and Ram Singhji – a young side back then, just after World War I. This team came up against the favourites, Patiala (with two nine-goalers and two 10-goalers) in 1922 in the finals of the Prince of Wales cup in Delhi, an all-India championship. It was a six-chukker match (each chukker lasts seven minutes; most matches today have four chukkers), and after three chukkers, Patiala led three goals to nil. Sir Pratap almost walked off the field. The Jodhpur team’s horses were tired, so the scions of Ratlam and Kishangarh offered them their string of ponies, which Jodhpur welcomed. A rejuvenated team went into the field at half time, and after the sixth chukker, the scores were tied. After extra time, Jodhpur scored and won. This hardfought match was considered the greatest ever played, since it was played in such spirit. The end result: Jodhpur won, and the dominance of Jodhpur in the polo world began on that day. And Patiala polo died on that day. Patiala lost the match, walked off, sold their horses on the ground, and left the field, never to take to polo again.” Above: “Hip, hip hoorah!” Maharaja Umaid Singh of Jodhpur and his winning team giving three cheers during a prize-giving.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY: ROAYL SALUTE. BLACK AND WHITE PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY: ROLI BOOKS FROM POLO IN INDIA BY JAISAL SINGH AND PRIYA KAPOOR.

Clockwise from top left: The winning team, 61st Cavalry; A vintage car from the Maharaja’s collection at the car rally organized on the day of the finals; Rajasthani langas performing at the New Year’s Eve party at Mehrangarh Fort; Chief guest Princess Esra of Hyderabad with the Maharaja of Jodhpur; The Maharaja with a friend, at the camel polo tourney held in Reggie’s Camel Camp, Osian.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY: ROAYL SALUTE. BLACK AND WHITE PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY: ROLI BOOKS FROM POLO IN INDIA BY JAISAL SINGH AND PRIYA KAPOOR.

Ireland

Golf’s Own Country

Ireland’s north-west Atlantic coast, often ignored by all but the most earnest itinerant golfers, is a trove of relatively lesser known, but absolutely outstanding links courses. Meraj Shah takes a swing

those who land up in the counties of Donegal and Dunfanaghy on the north-west of that country are usually inveterate swingers: they’ve already played the grails in Ireland (and Northern Ireland for the politically correct) – Ballyliffin, Portrush, Royal County Down, Ardglass, Lytham, and the like – and want to see what they’ve possibly missed out on. A ruddy lot, it turns out. The only reason this golfer has endeavoured this far north in Ireland is because he’s been feeling left out in lockerroom talk in which fellow golf addicts have been waxing eloquent about the ‘obscure links’ in this part of the country. Of course, summer is the best time to be here, but even if you land up during off-season, it’s entirely possible to have a bright, sunny spell before the dark clouds finally act as spoilsports. And the showers, while frequent, are short. All in all, a capital situation. Still, to remind yourself why you’re here, begin by doing some justice to the hype. Start with the County Sligo Golf Club.

Top: Snaking along the Atlantic Coast, the spectacular but demanding par four 17th at the County Sligo Golf Club is rated as the second most difficult hole of the course.

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t gets a wee bit windy all right, and chilly too. Thank God for the Guinness (which is always on tap): a couple of quick draughts, check; favourite beanie, check; cardigan, check; second cardigan, check; alpine windcheater zipped up, check. Head to the pro shop, grab the clubs, and wheel them out to the first tee looking like the abominable snowman, much to the bemusement of the lovely ladies enjoying a spot of sunshine. But they’re too polite to snicker, the Irish, and even throw in a goodnatured ‘hello!’ without a hint of mockery. They’ve seen it before: a tropical fruit lands on their home turf, fed on beautiful pictures of the County Sligo links – of the tide rolling in on the Atlantic just off the 15th tee – that he’s seen in a brochure halfway across the world. And lands up, in all earnestness, bang on time for afternoon tee. There’s no shortage of golf nuts in Ireland – that hallowed land where strips of green between the land and the sea gave rise to the game of ‘gowf,’ as we know it. But

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SPORTS

COUNTY SLIGO GOLF CLUB For sheer views of north-west Ireland’s famed coastlines and beaches, and to experience the joy of an authentic championship layout, head to the County Sligo Golf Club, one of the finest in the country. The course sits on a fantastic location – framed by the Atlantic on one side, and the Benbulben Mountain on the Rosses Point peninsula on the other, and boasts of an unique pedigree – it is over a century old, and the 18-hole championship layout got its present shape from renowned British golf course architect Harry Colt in the 1920s. In 1999, another nine-hole course called the ‘Bomore’, was added to it. Some holes are nothing short of spectacular, with the short par four 2nd hole being one of the finest. With a distance of just over 278 metres, the hole bares its teeth with a severely uphill play and distracts the golfer with panoramic views of the green. On the back nine (the last nine holes of the course), incoming gusts of sea breeze can be a constant factor. Championship tees - 6817 yards, Par 71 +353 (71) 917 7186 info@countysligogolfclub.ie www.countysligogolfclub.ie

DONEGAL GOLF CLUB On the road linking counties Sligo and Donegal, about 11 kilometres from the latter, Donegal Golf Course is sprawled lazily across the Murvagh peninsula. The relatively new course (est. 1959) is one of the longest in the country, which is precisely why – unless you’re scratch – it’s pointless trying to challenge this layout from the championship tees. Let the round be more about the outstanding views of the beach and ocean across the fifth and sixth fairways; and the undulations of classic links golf with nary a tree in sight. Practice the bump-and-run, and get a feel of the brutal gorse or thick shrubbery found on coastal courses. Irish golf course architect Eddie Hackett designed Donegal Golf Course as a “true test of golf ”, and it can be quite the dragon to slay. Don’t bother trying to power your way around this course, lest you end up fouling your evening. Championship tees - 7440 yards, Par 73 +353 (74) 973 4054 info@donegalgolfclub.ie www.donegalgolfclub.ie

ROSAPENNA HOTEL & GOLF RESORT Twenty miles north of Letterkenny, and situated amidst a smattering of holiday homes of the wealthy from Ireland and Europe, is a resort with not one but two magnificent courses. Out of the two layouts at the Rosapenna, the Sandy Hills links are the more monstrous of the two – with fairways snaking through giant dunes and a surfeit of trouble. At the pro shop, Frank the manager shakes his head when asked for local advice and proffers, “Keep it in the middle, same as anywhere.” Easier said than done at Sandy Hills, although the adjoining Old Tom Morris course (est. 1891) is much more forgiving and easier to manoeuvre through. The rooms at the on-site hotel on the OTM layout are the ideal place to lay your hat, and spend a couple of days soaking it all in. Championship tees - 7155 yards, Par 71 +353 (74) 915 5000 golf@rosapenna.ie www.rosapenna.ie

Summer is the best time to be here, but even if you land up during the off-season, it’s entirely possible to have a bright sunny spell before the clouds act as spoilsports. And the showers, while frequent, are short. The back nine at the quaint Narin & Portnoo provides as pretty a backdrop to the undulating links as you're likely to find anywhere in Ireland.

NARIN & PORTNOO GOLF CLUB You’re likely to question the prudence of driving the winding route to Portnoo to play a course which, in all likelihood, you’ve not heard much about. Those doubts will start fading once you confront your approach wedge as you look onto the eighth green, surrounded by the Gweebarra bay on both sides. And these will disappear completely as you look over the sweeping arc of the 11th and 15th fairways hemmed by what seem like unending beaches and long swathes of the open ocean. This is an old-fashioned course – natural and tremendously scenic – meandering over dunes with a range of teeing-off areas, some overlooking peninsula greens with gorse -blowing tee to green, some with generous fairways but against the Atlantic breeze. A real find, this one. Championship tees - 6855 yards, Par 73 +353 (74) 954 5107 info@narinportnoogolfclub.ie www.narinportnoogolfclub.ie

CASTLE DARGAN Amidst all legendary courses, sits a parkland layout which holds its own against the best in Europe. Castle Dargan is home to the Premier Parkland Golf Course in the north-west of Ireland, and opened for play just over five years ago. Designed by 2011 British Open Champion and Irish veteran Darren Clarke, the 170-acre course has met with widespread praise, and reflects Clarke’s passion for traditional design. The course meanders through a romantic landscape of brooks and rolling terrains, embracing old stone walls and ancient ruins. On the whole, Castle Dargan has a tough layout. The greens are multi-tiered and befuddling. Irrespective of the direction the course slopes towards, the ball almost always breaks away from the high points. It makes sense to factor in at least two putts on every hole. A four-star hotel and club facilities include a practice academy, a golf shop, a spa, and a club bar. Make sure you save Castle Dargan for the very last. After a few rounds on windswept links courses and merciless gorse, you may just yearn for a modern tree-lined fairway.

HANG YOUR HAT HERE Choose between Bayview suites, Junior suites, and a range of rooms at the four-star Rosapenna Hotel in the town of Downings in County Donegal. The rooms are expansive, with views of the bay and the adjoining Old Tom Morris course. Residents can enjoy a slew of activities besides golf, including angling, walks, surfing, and sailing. If possible, hire a car and take the ‘Atlantic drive’. +353 (74) 915 5301 reservations@rosapenna.ie

Championship tees - 6800 yards, Par 72 +353 (71) 911 8080 golf@castledargan.com www.castledargan.com

INDULGE IN AN IRISH TIPPLE Believe it or not, Heineken is the biggest-selling beer in all of Ireland. Younger people drink a lot of Carlsberg, Smithwick, and Budweiser; older folk drink a lot of Guinness, but you won’t be looked askance for drinking Guinness if you’re a young person.The Irish claim to be first to distill whiskey. Irish whiskey is also the only one in the world which is ‘triple distilled’, and suitably more complex than Scotch sans the smokey flavour. The very popular Bushmills, Cooley, and Middleton are the only three Irish whiskey brands on the market today, and Bushmills is the most sophisticated of the lot.

AUTO

POWER-PACKED PERFORMER Audi introduces the new R8 in two engine variants and a convertible as the sports-car successor to the legendary model.

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fter delivering over 9,000 cars in the Indian markets in 2012, and with a growth rate of 136 per cent, one could only assume that Audi’s new luxury SUV, the Q5, that hit the roads in the first month of 2013, didn’t quite satiate the German manufacturer. Or perhaps the Q5 was simply paving the way for a much more potent product, the sporty new Audi R8 which was launched soon after the Q5 on 21 January

by Michael Perschke, head of Audi India. “I am confident that with the new Audi R8, we will further consolidate our leadership position in the super sports car segment in India,” he says. “Audi R8 is the top-of-the line product of quattro GmbH and embodies the cuttingedge technology of a performance car. Many of its features can also be found in the Audi RS5, the Audi S4, the Audi TT and the soonto-be-launched Audi S6,” he says.

The R8 is powered by a choice of two capable engines, “that make it an R8 for every requirement,” says Perschke: a 4.2litre V-8 that develops 430hp, and a 5.2litre V-10 that develops 525hp between 4,500 and 6,000rpm. The R8 also comes as a convertible – the R8 V-10 Spyder. While the V-8 and V-10 Coupés can achieve a top track speed of 300kmph and 314kmph respectively, the Spyder sprints in 3.8 seconds with a top speed of 311kmph. Both

Top: The R8 is powered by two variants, the V-8 and V-10, and also comes as a convertible – the R8 V-10 Spyder.

TEXT BY AASHMITA NAYAR / PHOTO COURTESY: AUDI.

unlimited customized colour combinations, both inside and out,” says Perschke. The car boasts new LED headlights and turn signals in the rear standards, which turn from the inside out in the direction the driver is turning in. But its most striking features are the giant tailpipes and a freshly designed diffuser. The emblem for the R8 has also undergone a change, and its 18- or 19-inch wheels sport a new two-tone 10-spoke Y design. Clients also have the option of fitting their models with a magnetic ride-adaptive damping system. The commanding marque promises a powerful drive on Indian motorways, that is still buttersmooth and effortless, marred only by the space, or lack of it inside the car – typical of a sports car. The interiors of the R8 are replete with plush, honeycomb-quilted Nappa leather that completes the sporty feel of the Coupé without detracting from its luxurious finish. The inserts in the door liners and seat covers are also quilted, while the instrument panel and centre

console are turned slightly towards the driver’s seat, outlining Audi’s painstaking attention to detail to provide the driver with ultimate standards of comfort behind the wheel. Audi has introduced a significant markup in the pricing as compared to the earlier models in addition to other upgrades in the architecture of the Coupé. While the Spyder is priced at `1.74 crore, the V-8 and the V-10 Coupés are priced at `1.35 crore and `1.58 crore and `1.74 crore (ex-showroom New Delhi) respectively. “Audi is on a winning ticket,” says Perschke. “In terms of sales, we have overtaken one of our major competitors and are closing ranks on another. The R8 has perfect features, yet is fuel-efficient and satisfies one’s hunger for driving better, faster.” With these massive figures, in addition to future plans of launching a super sports version as well as the aforementioned S6, it is not surprising that Audi’s appetite to conquer the Indian markets appears insatiable.

Top left and right: While the Spyder is priced at `1.74 crore, the V-8 and V-10 Coupés are priced at `1.35 crore and `1.58 crore respectively (ex-showroom New Delhi); The plush interiors of the Audi R8 Coupé.

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the Coupés clock times of 4.3 and 3.6 seconds respectively, for the zero-to-100kmph run. The new seven-speed S tronic, which is now standard in these models, replaces the R tronic, and has improved the acceleration of the car by 0.3 per cent, according to Audi. The weight of the top model is lighter by approximately 50 kilogrammes, even though the steering wheels and brakes are noticeably heavier. “A single-frame grille also enhances the weight-saving design of the car, but the DNA adheres to that of a racing car,” says Perschke. The Coupé weighs in at 1,660kg of which 210kg come from the aluminium Audi Space Frame (ASF) – 40 per cent less than other comparable steel structures. An additional 6kg are added to the body weight of the Spyder in the form of its electro-hydraulically activated cloth top. Even when it is not burning fuel on the race tracks or attracting attention on the highways with its rousing snarls, the R8 Coupé is a magnificent beast of beauty. “We offer

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BOOKS

Prêt on Paper From couturiers who have recently celebrated their silver jubilee to the rise of the world’s first luxury company, this triad of coffee-table books gives fashion aficionados a fresh insight into their colourful biographies. TEXT BY PRIYA KUMARI RANA

INDIA FANTASTIQUE: Abu Jani – Sandeep Khosla

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esign duo Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla, known as much for their intricate embroideries, as for their sense of opulence, capture 25 years of design (they celebrated this milestone at the end of 2012) in Fantastique. This rich, 500-page two-volume tome (for fashion and art respectively) has been written by art critic Gayatri Sinha. The photographs by UK-based fashion photographer Ram Shergill and Berlinborn ace lenswoman Deidi Von Schwaen unabashedly showcase the swanky work in art, interiors, and design created by the twosome, including Bollywood stars in candid poses, Jani and Khosla’s own lush den in Mumbai, and pictures from Death Valley, Nevada to London, Morocco, and Udaipur. This book had a multi-city launch that showcased the best of India: from Sotheby’s in London to Galerie du Passage, Paris, and finally, Antilia in Mumbai. This is an ode to the couturiers’ artistic talent for transforming India’s ancient crafts and weaves into highfashion pieces, and makes for a fine gift for Indophiles everywhere.

Thames & Hudson, `7,995

his is an updated version of a book that was launched in 2005, describing the story of Louis Vuitton. Dipping into its archival treasure trove, this book traces the history of the maison from its creation in 1854 to the present day, from iconic products, to art and ad campaigns, including rare posters. Founder Louis Vuitton created the world’s first modern luggage in 1854, a lightweight trunk covered by waterproof canvas and made famous by French Empress Eugénie, and later cohorts of artists, heads of states, actors, and monarchs. The brand grew as the cream of society flaunted the LV monogram on exotic voyages overseas, and in the world’s finest hotels. The revised 10 chapters and over 500 illustrations tell the compelling story of the highest craftsmanship of a house that led to the creation in 1997, of a global fashion empire, and the story of Louis’ descendants Georges, Gaston-Louis, right up to Marc Jacobs today. The limitededition book is available at Louis Vuitton stores worldwide. Louis Vuitton and Les Éditions de La Martinière, €140

SUNEET VARMA

nother couturier celebrates 25 years in the world of fashion, and this book that comes in its own red and black box, is like a concise lesson on the (brief) history of Indian fashion. From writer Nishat Fatima’s interviews with Suneet’s friends and colleagues, such as David Abraham, Satya Saran, JJ Valaya, and Aparna Bahl, among others, to rare photos by Prabhudda Dasgupta, Hemant Khandelwal, Vibhash Tiwari, Farrokh Chothia, Bharat Sikka, and ramp shots by Pomy Issar, this is a collection of Varma’s oeuvre, shows, models. From the ’80s to his latest editorial, the book is a delightful addition to any fashion historian’s library, or anyone interested in the evolution of fashion in the country. Cleverly divided by red, spot-laminated openers, sections such as Sheer & Sensual, Colour, Couture, Styling & Accessories, take us through Varma’s various design techniques: screen-printing, appliqué, crystals, threadwork, and crystalwork, on velvet, zardozi, chiffon, and georgette. The last section focuses on his collaborations with BMW, Judith Leiber, and Swarovski.

Niyogi Books, `4,500

BOOKS IMAGES COURTESY: THAMES & HUDSON; LOUIS VUITTON; SUNEET VARMA.

LOUIS VUITTON: The Birth of Luxury

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SOCIETY

Cavalli’s Cohorts

Sonam Kapoor in Roberto Cavalli

Raveena Tandon and Roberto Cavalli

Sushmita Sen and Roberto Cavalli

Kangana Ranaut

The capital celebrated the launch of its first Cavalli store (which opened its doors at The Emporio, Vasant Kunj, last August), and the first Cavalli Café outside Florence, Italy. A beaming Roberto Cavalli, dressed in his trademark black jacket, blue jeans, and dark glasses, mingled with Bollywood royalty and Indian glitterati in the atrium of the luxury mall, right next to his eponymous Café. As guests sipped their chianti, the statuesque, kaftan-clad Sushmita Sen was spotted, while a dapper velour-suited Zayed Khan accompanied B-town stars Kangna Ranaut, Jacqueline Fernandez, Zarine Khan, and Sonam Kapoor, dressed head-to-toe in Cavalli. Designer Manav Gangwani, Cavalli’s India partner, sported a leopard-print foulard as he chatted with actor Raveena Tandon. As friends Radhika Chanana, Ammu Saidi, and Tanisha Mohan discussed their upcoming holiday plans, Ajatshatru and Ritu Singh of Kashmir dazzled in their heirloom diamonds. Niamat Bakshi looked stunning in her short number, while Shalini Passi was in a form-fitting, leopardprint gown. “Animal print is the new black,” said Tanisha Mohan, who wore a one-shoulder gown. One of the highlights of the evening was Roberto Cavalli taking to the stage with Rajasthani langas, clapping and dancing, much to audience’s delight.

Ruheen Jaiswal

DLF's Savitri Singh

SOCIETY

Vikram Oberoi, Reena Wadhwa, Stephanie Oberoi, and Ashok Wadhwa

Ayushmann Khurrana, Nargis Fakhri, Patrizio di Marco and Rahul Khanna

Chetan Seth and Ramola Bachchan

Italian Flair

Taru Verma, Seema Puri, and friend

To celebrate the opening of its fifth and largest store in India, Gucci hosted a glamorous evening at its new two-storied flagship boutique at The Oberoi, Gurgaon. Delhi's fashionistas poured in to check out the Italian label’s offerings from its SS 2013 collection, as well as an elegant space on the first floor, where patrons could request for bespoke bags, shoes, and clothes. Another highlight was a special exhibition that displayed signature pieces from the brand’s classic theme, ‘Flora World’. Delhi socialite Tanisha Mohan played the perfect hostess in a stunning gold lamé dress, to an array of the city’s glitterati, which included Bollywood actors Rahul Khanna, Ayushmann Khurrana, and Nargis Fakhri, as well as the President and CEO of Gucci, Patrizio De Marco.

The Oberoi's Kapil Chopra, Alex Kuruvilla, and artist Subodh Gupta

From left to right: The Italian Ambassador H.E. with his wife, Armando Branchini, and Gucci President and CEO Patrizio di Marco

Ameeta Seth, Reena Wadhwa, and Tanisha Mohan

Designer Rahul Khanna, Rohit Gandhi, Rahul Khanna, and Mandira Koirala

Designs on Satya Paul

Sisters Priya Chatwal and Charu Sachdev

Double celebrations were the order of the day. Design house Satya Paul recently appointed maverick designer Masaba Gupta as creative director, while Indo-Canadian actor Lisa Ray launched her specially designed limited-edition saris. All this made for a heady evening of glamour, as the gorgeous actor and cancer survivor, clad in a blood-orange Satya Paul sari with a halter-neck blouse, made a presentation on the scientific progresses that allowed survivors to lead a normal life. Sanjay Kapoor, managing director, Genesis Luxury, and Sujata Assomull Sippy played the perfect hosts, as Lisa announced that her custom-made white wedding sari was up for a silent auction that evening. Sisters Priya Chatwal and Charu Sachdev were seen talking to Masaba Gupta in an elegant black-and-white digital print sari, while young designers Anand Bhushan and Radhika Jha made a late entry.

Jaideep Sippy and wife Sujata Assomull Sippy with Genesis MD Sanjay Kapoor

Lisa Ray standing in front of her georgette gota-work sari that was up for auction

Luxury swimwear designers Shrivan & Narresh

Rudra and Sumaya Dalmia

Model Tina Chhatwal and FDCI President Sunil Sethi

Satya Paul's new creative director Masaba Gupta

Sanjay Sharma

Sandeep Jajodia

Atul Wassan

Pernia Qureshi and Sanya V Jain

Vikrum Baidyanath with Mira Jain

The SVJ bags on display

Clutch Much! On a cold January night New Delhi’s fashion cognoscenti descended upon The Dirty Martini, Olive at the Qutub, to fête debut accessories designer Sanya V Jain’s new line of leather clutches and bags, SVJ. A beaming Sanya and husband Varun invited guests to step inside a giant, open clutch for a keepsake photo. As the party gained momentum, socialista Ammu Saidi walked in with actor Irrfan Khan, followed by cricketer Mohammad Azharuddin. Dior VP marketing Kalyani Saha, dressed in a sharp black Dior pantsuit was seen mingling with designer Atsu Sekhose and entrepreneur Sanjay Sharma. As the champagne flowed, Pernia Qureshi (on whose website, perniaspopupshop.com, the collection is available) was seen catching up with fellow stylist Edward Lalrempuia, who had starred with her in the SVJ ad campaign.

Kalyani Saha sporting an SVJ clutch

Pushpanjali and Rohtash Chawla

Left to right: Irrfan Khan, Sanya V Jain, Varun Jain, Mohammad Azharuddin

Edward Lalrempuia with Pernia Qureshi

The giant open clutch installation

Cheena Vig

AD Singh

CALENDAR: ART

CHENNAI STRIDES OF DIGNITY GALLERY VEDA

DELHI THE PIOUS & THE PROFANE GALLERY ART POSITIVE

NEW YORK INDEPENDENT ART FAIR

January 23 – February 27, 2013

February 2–28, 2013

www.independentnewyork.com

March 7–10, 2013

www.galleryartpositive.com

www.galleryveda.com

SHARJAH RE:EMERGE TOWARDS A NEW CULTURAL CARTOGRPHY SHARJAH BIENNIAL 11 March 13 – May 13, 2013 www.sharjahbiennial.org

DELHI ART AESTHETICS LALIT KALA AKADEMI March 18–24, 2013 www.tadart.in www.lalitkala.gov.in

DELHI PEAK SHIFT EFFECT VADEHRA ART GALLERY January 22 – March 2, 2013

MUMBAI EQUILIBRIUM TAO ART GALLERY February 7 – March 8, 2013 www.taoartgallery.com

www.vadehraart.com

PARIS ART PARIS ART FAIR 2013 March 28 – April 1, 2013 www.artparis.fr/en

CALENDAR

GURGAON VENETIAN ODYSSEY THROUGH THE LENS OF PARESH MAITY

SAN FRANCISCO NOISE POP MUSIC FESTIVAL 2013

HONG KONG HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW

January 29 – February 28, 2013

February 26 – March 3, 2013

www.artalivegallery.com

www.noisepop.com

March 5–9, 2013 www.hktdc.com

RAJASTHAN WORLD SUFI SPIRIT FESTIVAL February 22–23, 2013, Jodhpur February 25–27, 2013, Nagaur www.worldsufispiritfestival.org

MUMBAI NORAH JONES HEADLINES ‘A SUMMER’S DAY’ IN MUMBAI March 3, 2013, Mumbai March 5, 2013, Delhi March 8, 2013, Bengaluru

MUMBAI TASTE, THE GLOBAL FOOD FESTIVAL FEB — MAR 2013

February 22–24, 2013

122

FINLAND TAMPERE FILM FESTIVAL March 6–10, 2013 www.tamperefilmfestival.fi

FLORIDA 55TH ANNUAL FORT MYERS, FLORIDA BEACH SHRIMP FESTIVAL

DELHI WILLS INDIA FASHION WEEK

March 7–9, 2013

www.willslifestyleindiafashionweek.com

March 13–17, 2013

www.beachshrimpfestival.com

DUBAI DUBAI INTERNATIONAL HORSE FAIR March 21–23, 2013 www.dihf.ae

GENEVA GENEVA MOTOR SHOW March 7–17, 2013 www.salon-auto.ch

MUMBAI ASOT 600 WORLD TOUR: DJ ARMIN VAN BUUREN

MUMBAI LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK

March 16, 2013

March 22–26, 2013

www.astateoftrance.com

www.lakmefashionweek.co.in

BRAZIL LOLLAPALOOZA MUSIC FESTIVAL March 29–31, 2013 www.lollapalooza.com

COLORADO SNOWBALL MUSIC FESTIVAL March 8–10, 2013 www.snowballmusicfestival.com

NEW YORK THE AIPAD PHOTOGRAPHY SHOW April 4–7, 2013 FEB — MAR 2013

www.aipad.com

123

GUIDE

LUXURY HOTELS DELHI & NCR

ITC MAURYA

Diplomatic Enclave, Sardar Patel Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi-110021 +91 (11) 2611 2233 www.itchotels.in

JAYPEE GREENS GOLF AND SPA RESORT

THE CLARIDGES

TAJ LAKE PALACE

Shooting Range Road, Faridabad-121001 +91 (129) 4190 000 www.claridges.com

THE OBEROI

Bhawani Singh Road, Jaipur-302005 +91 (141) 2211 919 www.oberoihotels.com

P.O. Box 5, Lake Pichola, Udaipur-313001 +91 (294) 2428 800 www.tajhotels.com

GOURMET

Dr Zakir Hussain Marg, New Delhi-110003 +91 (11) 2436 3030 www.oberoihotels.com

SHANGRI-LA'S - EROS HOTEL

THE TAJ MAHAL HOTEL

19 Ashoka Road, Connaught Place, New Delhi-110001 +91 (11) 4119 1919 www.shangri-la.com

1 Mansingh Road, New Delhi-110011 +91 (11) 2302 6162 www.tajhotels.com

ITC Maurya, Diplomatic Enclave, Sardar Patel Marg, New Delhi-110021 +91 (11) 2611 2233 www.itchotels.in

THE LALIT

THE SURYAA

INDIAN ACCENT

Barakhamba Avenue, Connaught Place, New Delhi-110001 +91 (11) 4444 7777 www.thelalit.com

New Friends Colony, New Delhi-110025 +91 (11) 2683 5070 www.thesuryaa.com

J W MARIOTT

MUMBAI

LE CIRQUE

LE MERIDIEN

8 Windsor Place, Rajiv Chowk, New Delhi-110001 +91 (11) 2371 0101 www.lemeridiendelhi.com

AMAN NEW DELHI

Lodhi Road, New Delhi-110003 +91 (11) 4363 3333 www.amanresorts.com

THE HILTON

Janakpuri District Centre Complex, New Delhi-110058 +91 (11) 4123 4123 www.hilton.com

THE IMPERIAL HOTEL

Janpath, Rajiv Chowk, New Delhi-110001 +91 (11) 2334 1234, 4150 1234 www.theimperialindia.com

THE FOUR SEASONS HOTEL 114 Dr E Moses Road, Worli, Mumbai-400018 +91 (22) 2481 8000 www.fourseasons.com

THE OBEROI

Nariman Point, Mumbai-400021 +91 (22) 6632 5757 www.oberoihotels.com

TAJ LANDS END Band Stand, Bandra, West Mumbai-400050 +91 (22) 6668 1234 www.tajhotels.com

THE TRIDENT

Nariman Point, Mumbai-400021 +91 (22) 6632 4343 www.tridenthotels.com RAJASTHAN

DELHI & NCR

BUKHARA

The Manor, 77 Friends Colony (West), New Delhi-110065 +91 (11) 4323 5151 www.indianaccent.com The Leela Palace Chanakyapuri, Diplomatic Enclave, New Delhi-110021 +91 (11) 3933 1234 www.theleela.com

MEGU

The Leela Palace, Chanakyapuri, Diplomatic Enclave, New Delhi-110021 +91 (11) 3933 1234 www.theleela.com

ON THE WATERFRONT Aman, Lodhi Road, New Delhi-110003 +91 (11) 4363 3411 www.amanresorts.com

ORIENT EXPRESS

Taj Palace Hotel, Diplomatic Enclave, Sardar Patel Marg, New Delhi-110021 + 91 (11) 4363 3411 www.tajhotels.com

AMANBAGH, NEAR JAIPUR

THE CHINA KITCHEN

Chanakyapuri, Diplomatic Enclave New Delhi-110021 +91 (11) 3933 1234 www.theleela.com

Amanbagh Resort, Ajabgarh Village, Alwar-301027 +91 (1465) 223 333 www.amanresorts.com

THE PARK

OBEROI UDAIVILAS

THE SPICE ROUTE

THE LEELA PALACE

FEB — MAR 2013

RAMBAGH PALACE

Bhikaji Cama Place, Ring Road, New Delhi-110607 +91 (11) 2679 1234 www.delhi.regency.hyatt.com

G Block, Surajpur Kasna Road, Greater Noida-201306 +91 (120) 6743 000 www.jaypeeresortdelhi.com

Asset Area 4 - Hospitality District, Delhi Aerocity, New Delhi-110037 +91 (11) 4521 2121 www.mariott.com

124

HYATT REGENCY

15 Parliament Street, New Delhi-110001 +91 (11) 2374 3000 www.theparkhotels.com

Hardasji Ki Magri, Udaipur-313001 +91 (294) 2433 300 www.oberoihotels.com

The Hyatt Regency, Bhikaji Cama Place, Ring Road, New Delhi-110607 +91 (11) 2679 1234 www.delhi.regency.hyatt.com

The Imperial Hotel, Janpath, New Delhi-110001 +91 (11) 2334 1234, 4150 1234 www.theimperialindia.com

WASABI BY MORIMOTO Taj Mahal Hotel, 1 Mansingh Road, New Delhi-110011 +91 (11) 2302 6162 www.tajhotels.com

360º The Oberoi Hotel, Dr Zakir Hussain Marg, New Delhi-110003 +91 (11) 2436 3030 www.oberoihotels.com

CHEZ NINI 79 & 80, Meherchand Market New Delhi-110003 +91 (11) 4905 0665/666

L'OPÉRA Shop SG 022, Galleria Market Gurgaon-122002 +91 (124) 4083 093 www.loperaindia.com

RED MOON BAKERY M 76, Greater Kailash 2, New Delhi-110048 +91 (11) 4157 4797 www.redmoonbakery.com MUMBAI

CAFE BY THE BEACH H2O Water Sport Complex, Chowpatty, Girgaon, Mumbai +91 (22) 6565 0040

CAFE ZOE 126, Todi Mathuradas Mill Compound, N M Joshi Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013 +91 (22) 2490 2065 www.cafezoe.in

HAKKASAN Krystal, 206, Waterfield Road, Bandra (West), Mumbai-400050 +91 (22) 2644 4444 /45 www.hakkasan.com

KOH Intercontinental Hotel, 135 Marine Drive, Lobby Level, Nariman Point, Mumbai-400020 +91 (22) 3987 9999 www.ichotelsgroup.com

TWO ONE TWO BAR AND GRILL

HYPE

Ground floor, Raheja Tower, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra East, Mumbai-400051 +91 (22) 2644 8888 www.yauatcha.com

R1, Fourth Floor, Atria Mall, Opposite Poonam Chambers, Next To Nehru Planetarium, Dr Annie Besant Road, Worli, Mumbai-400018 +91 (22) 2481 3799 www.hypetheclub.com

NIGHTLIFE DELHI & NCR

ANIDRA Aman Hotel, Lodhi Road, New Delhi-110003 +91 (11) 4363 3333 www.amanresorts.com

BLUE BAR, THE TAJ PALACE Sardar Patel Marg, Diplomatic Enclave, New Delhi-110021 +91 (11) 2611 0202 www.tajhotels.com

KITTY SU The Lalit Hotel, Barakhamba Avenue, Rajiv Chowk, New Delhi-110001 +91 (11) 4444 7777 www.thelalit.com

LAP Hotel Samrat, Kautilya Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi-110021 +91 (11) 2410 3762 www. laptheclub.com

SHROOM 3rd Floor, The Crescent Mall, Lado Sarai, Mehrauli, New Delhi-110030 +91 (11) 2952 3737, +91 8800 777 074 MUMBAI

AURUS MUMBAI 12 A, Ground Floor, Nichani Kutir, Near Reid & Taylor Showroom, Opposite Ajanta Hotel, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu, Mumbai 400054 +91 (22) 6710 6666, 6710 6667 www.dishhospitality.com

BLUE FROG Zeba Center, Mathuradas Mill Compound, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013 +91 (22) 6158 6158 www.bluefrog.co.in

WELLNESS DELHI & NCR

AMATRRA SPA The Ashok, 50 B Diplomatic Enclave, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi-110021 +91 (11) 2412 2921/25 www.amatrraspa.com

SIX SENSES SPA Jaypee Greens Golf & Spa Resort, Surajpur Kasna Road, Greater Noida-201306 +91 (120) 2339 900 www.sixsenses.com

THE AMAN SPA Aman New Delhi, Lodhi Road, New Delhi-110003 +91 (11) 4363 3333 www.amanresorts.com

THE OBEROI SPA Dr Zakhir Hussain Marg, Delhi-110003 +91 (11) 2636 3030 www.oberoihotels.com

VLCC SPA 22 Community Centre, Basant Lok, Priya Complex, Vasant Vihar, New Delhi- 110057 +91 (11) 2615 5561/2/3/4 www.vlccwellness.com

THE ROYAL PLAZA SPA & SALON 19 Ashoka Road, New Delhi-110001 +91 (11) 4355 5555 www.hoteltheroyalplaza.com

EROS SPA Hilton Hotels & Resorts, Mayur Vihar, New Delhi-110091 +91 (11) 4110 2222 www3.hilton.com

FEB — MAR 2013

12 A, Ground Floor, Hornby Vellard Estate, opposite Nehru Centre, Worli, Mumbai-400018 +91 (22) 2490 1994/93

YAUATCHA

125

UTTARANCHAL

ANANDA IN THE HIMALAYAS The Palace Estate, Narendra Nagar, Tehri-Garhwal, Uttaranchal-249175 +91 (1378) 227 500 www.anandaspa.com MUMBAI

QUAN SPA

J W Marriott Hotel, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu, Mumbai-400049 +91 (22) 6693 3000 www.marriot.com HIMACHAL PRADESH

THE OBEROI SPA, WILDFLOWER HALL

Wildflower Hall Hotel, Mashobra, Shimla-171012 +91 (177) 2648 585 www.oberoihotels.com

SHOPPING DELHI & NCR

CHANEL BOUTIQUE Hotel Imperial, 1 Janpath, New Delhi-110001 +91 (11) 4111 6840 www.chanel.com

GUCCI BOUTIQUE The Oberoi, Gurgaon, 443, Udyog Vihar-3, Phase 5, Gurgaon Road, Haryana-122016 +91 (124) 4102 172 www.oberoihotels.com

SEPHORA

G-51, Select Citywalk New Delhi-110017 +91 (11) 4134 9797 www.sephora.com

ESTÉE LAUDER

4, Nelson Mandela Road, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi-110070 +91 (11) 4611 6666 web.dlfemporio.com

DLF PLACE

DAMIANI BOUTIQUE

Plot No. A-4, District Centre, Press Enclave Road, Saket, New Delhi-110017 +91 (11) 4606 4444 www.dlfplace.in

KHAN MARKET, NEW DELHI Near Lodhi Garden, New Delhi-110003

SANTUSHTI SHOPPING COMPLEX

Race Course Road, Near Ashoka Hotel Chanakyapuri, Delhi-110021

SELECT CITYWALK

The Oberoi hotel, Dr Zakir Hussain Marg, New Delhi-110003 +91 (11) 2430 4077 www.damiani.com

FX ENTERTAINMENT 40/46, Lower Ground Floor, CR Park, New Delhi-110019 +91 (11) 4050 7113/7114 www.fxentertainment.com

SICIS

MONT BLANC The Taj Mahal Hotel, 1 Mansingh Road, New Delhi-110011 +91 (11) 2302 6162 www.tajhotels.com

ASTON MARTIN A-19, Mohan Co-operative Industrial Estate, Mathura Road, New Delhi-110044 +91 99113 32203 www.astonmartinnewdelhi.com

AUDI B1/H1, Mohan Co-operative Industrial Estate, Mathura Road, New Delhi-110044 +91 (11) 4600 7300 www.audidelhi.net MUMBAI

PALLADIUM MALL 462 Highstreet Phoenix, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013

THE SOUNDSMITHS Unit No. 222, 2nd Floor, Kewal Industrial Estate, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai-400013 +91 (22) 4061 1888 www.thesoundsmiths.com

THE CHARCOAL PROJECT Unit No.1, D-Mall, Veera Desai Road, Andheri West Mumbai-400058 +91 (22) 6193 6198 www.thecharcoalproject.com

ROSE BOUTIQUE Breach Candy, 3rd Floor, Hormuz Mansion, 72, B Desai Road, Above Cymroza Art Gallery, Mumbai-400026 +91 (22) 2368 5287/90 www.therose.in

A-3, District Centre, Saket, Delhi-110017 +91 (11) 4211 4211, 4211 4200 www.selectcitywalk.com

D-5, Defence Colony New Delhi-110024 +91 (11) 4611 4800/44 www.sicis.com

ETHOS SUMMIT

JOHNSON WATCH CO.

THE GEM PALACE

C-16, Connaught Place, New Delhi - 110001 +91 (11) 4151 3121 www.johnsonwatch.com

M I Road, Jaipur-302001 +91 (141) 2374 175 www.thegempalacejaipur.com

KAPOOR WATCH COMPANY

MISS INDIA

Select Citywalk, Saket New Delhi-110017 +91 (11) 4058 8700 www.ethoswatches.com

SBJ HOUSE OF LUXURY FEB — MAR 2013

Maurya ITC Hotel & Towers, Diplomatic Enclave, New Delhi-110021 +91 (11) 2302 3256 www.globetrotter1897.com

Ambience Mall, Nelson Mandella Road, Vasant Kunj New Delhi-400058 +91 (11) 3208 3601 www.esteelauder.in

DLF EMPORIO

126

GLOBE-TROTTER

N-9, South Extension-1, New Delhi-110049 +91 (11) 4556 7717/18 www.sbjhouseofluxury.com

G-7, South Extension-1, New Delhi-110049 +91 (11) 4134 5678 www.kapoorwatch.com

JAIPUR

48 M I Road, Near Gulab Niwas Jaipur-302001 +91 (141) 2371 414 www.missindiaexports.com

Gems of Mumbai

Tired of the same old city haunts? Try these sublime locales to revive your senses, says Aditi SenGupta ILLUSTRATION BY PRIYANKA CHHETRY

HIRO MUSIC HOUSE: If footfalls are anything to go by, there’s no denying that the Maximum City sure has a ‘Hiro’ in this treasure trove of music. From Mozart to Madonna, Hiro is home to musical greats across centuries, continents, and genres. Patrons swear by its unrivalled collection of Elvis CDs. The store also takes down specific requests and, in most cases, honours them as well. Sir Pherozeshah Mehta Road, Fort.

CHEZ MOI: Walking into a neighbourhood eatery takes on a new dimension at Chez Moi. And the ‘French-ness’ continues well into the décor. The menu (not entirely French) is cleverly pasted between old magazines from Paris. Crossing the border, figuratively speaking, the pasta Creole is a classic; the same can be said for the mushroom risotto. Pair it all with a jolly glass of sangria and your evening is complete. House No. 13, ONGC Colony, Bandra Reclamation; 077383 82407.

QUAN SPA, JW MARRIOTT: This sevenyear old establishment needs no introduction to anyone who needs some head-to-toe indulgence. It bagged an award the year it opened, and continues to feature on prizewinners’ lists worldwide. A signature treatment is the Ocean Memory Spa Ritual: an exfoliating scrub followed by a bath with pink and green algae, finished off with a soothing seaweed wrap. Juhu Tara Road; www.quanspa.com; (022) 6693 3000.

Amarchand Mansion, Madam Cama Road, Colaba; (022) 6621 3333.

SEVEN, SHANGRI-LA: The latest round-theclock feasting in Mumbai has opened at Seven, the all-day diner at the swanky new Shangri-la. With seven live counters across the spacious room, depicting the seven islands of Mumbai, a walk is all you need to either work up an appetite or burn calories. The sushi, the dimsum, the cheese platter, the champagne, the sorbets, the homemade ice-cream…don’t even attempt this unless you have a long weekend ahead. Or you may want to book a room at the hotel itself. Shangri-la, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel; www.shangri-la.com; (022) 6162 8000.

GUILT TRIP: Sinners, rejoice. A recent addition to Bandra’s long list of pâtisseries, Guilt Trip has cupcakes aplenty ‒ carrot, red velvet, Oreo cookie, and pinacolada. The carrot cupcake is a clear winner, as is the rich and dense caramel cheesecake. With its wide porch and stools in eye-popping colours, Guilt Trip is better placed

than most of its ‘take-away’ neighbours.

Next to Baskin Robbins, off Carter Road, Bandra (W); (022) 6999 6096.

MARRY ME THE STORE: Don’t be seen around this store if ‘singledom’ is something you guard zealously. Brainchild of wedding planner Candice Pereira, this store (inside the popular Candies on Pali Naka) is all about little details that make ‘I do’ affairs charming and unique. From candles to suitcases for newlyweds, and satin-wrapped gift boxes, this wedding store is straight out of a Hollywood romantic comedy. The décor is so pretty, that on entering one can almost visualize the bride walking down the aisle. Pali Hill, Bandra (W ); www marrymethestore.com; (022) 6512 8821.

BANDIT QUEEN: Rest assured that this one has nothing to with the ‘outlaws’ who made the ravines of Chambal dreaded terrain. Silver fibreglass trees, rough grey walls, skylights – the look and feel of this textiles and fashion accessories haven is quite the contrast to the images that the name conjures up. Started by local entrepreneur Sunita Namjoshi in partnership with Belgian designer Valerie Barkowski, Bandit Queen pays special attention to dying Indian skills such as hand-pintucking. Bed linen, tote bags, scarves, cufflinks, lamps, hats ‒ name it and this concept store has it. And if they don’t have it, you can assume that you just don’t need it. Bandit Queen creations are also available at the Le Mill showroom in Masjid Bunder. 130 Dinshaw Petit Lane, Kalachowky; (022) 2470 6784; Mon-Fri 11am-6.30pm (by appointment only).

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ELLIPSIS: There are no incomplete thoughts at Ellipsis, even if the name suggests so. Opulence is the first word that comes to mind as you

enter the split-level space in champagne colour. Amidst many fiery potions, this is probably the only restaurant that serves Prosecco on tap. New-age cuisine that follows the American concept of ‘from farm to table’ is what the kitchen dishes out: Mac ’n cheese with rye Cavatelli truffle, lamb sliders, and toasties topped with foie gras mousse, beet salad with hazelnuts, whipped goat cheese and arugula, tenderloin beef burger and Uncle Sam’s favourite, banana split. Although you might want to come back quicky, because the menu changes on a daily basis...or so we’re told!

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COLUMN

Everyone is a Comedian Now

By Papa C J

he throne of the king of comedy in India is a coveted one. A big challenge I face as the finest and undisputedly most modest standup comedian in the country, is the increasing amount of competition to occupy that throne. In fact recently, jesters from unexpected quarters have made headlines in an attempt to stake their claim as masters of creating laughter. Here is a list of some of these clowns:

FEB — MAR 2013

1. Andhra Pradesh Congress Committee president Botsa Satyanarayana, who in response to the Delhi gang rape asked, “Just because India got freedom at midnight, is it necessary for women to move around on the streets at midnight?” thereby clearly demonstrating his sharp powers of reasoning and logic, and making a strong case for his consideration for higher office. That being said, he might have wanted to consider the fact that just because Jawaharlal Nehru gave a speech when India got independence, does not mean that he should open his mouth at every opportunity!

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2. Self-styled godman Asaram Bapu who said, “Only 5-6 people are not the culprits. The girl is as guilty as her rapists. She should have called

3. RSS Chief Mohan Bhagwat who said, “A husband and wife are bound by a contract which says, “You (woman) look after the household chores and satisfy me; I (man) will take care of your needs and will protect you”, and until she delivers her duties without fail, he keeps her on the contract. It is not surprising then that when you dig deeper, you find that Mohan Bhagwat graduated in veterinary sciences and animal husbandry, and therefore his experience is clearly not in dealing with the human species. However, what is unclear is which country does Bhagwat wish to be king of comedy of – India or Bharat? 4. Chhattisgarh Home Minister Nanki Ram Kanwar who said, “Our country is a land of spiritual belief and philosophy. I also believe that just like the stars are responsible for the outcome of good or bad events, the incidents of rape too are consequences of the bad phase controlled by stars.” I suppose he expects women from states outside Chhattisgarh to thank their stars for not being born in a state where he himself has said that over 6,000 girls and young women have been reported missing. We pray to the stars to heal his brain sooner rather than later. Although with this attitude, I’m sure there are a bunch of people who would like to show him some stars…and they’re not the kind of stars he is thinking of ! 5. Abhijeet Mukherjee, the son of the honourable President of India who called the women participating in the Delhi protests against the horrific gang rape of a student as “highly dented and painted”. It seems he’s been at the receiving end of a hard deal when he bought his last second-hand car and discovered

the imperfections later, but was too afraid to protest for fear of being called dented and painted himself, just like the vehicle he bought. 6. Madhya Pradesh Minister Kailash Vijaywargiya who advises women to stay within the ‘Lakshman rekha’, to avoid unwanted consequences. Incidentally, the next question posed to him was about how to lower the number of road accidents in his state, to which he responded, “If you don’t want to be in a road accident, don’t go out on the road. Stay at home,” Genius, I say! 7. Advocate Manohar Lal Sharma, who is defending one of the accused in the Delhi gang rape, and suggested that the victim was responsible for the attack, saying, “Until today, I have not seen a single incident or example of rape with a respected lady.” Ironically, Mr Sharma, neither have I ever seen a single incident or example of bad press for a respectable lawyer. 8. Karnataka Energy Minister Shobha Karandlaje who suggested that rape could be prevented by getting men to do yoga. Unless the minister is suggesting we get these rapists to become flexible enough to screw themselves, I’m not buying it. I’d rather see women doing kung fu on the asses of these pathetic, inflexible men than the men doing yoga to try and curb their criminal urges. 9. The highest-selling English author in our country, Chetan Bhagat, who tweeted “First Aarushi. Now Nirbhaya. Both readers. Breaks my heart even more.” I’m not judging his intention, but as a man who makes a living off words, I wonder how he would react if a Sheila Dixit or Mamata Banerjee had said, “First Aarushi. Now Nirbhaya. Both voters. Breaks my heart even more.” Or if actor Tusshar Kapoor had called them both ‘cinema-goers’. They say comedy is equal to tragedy plus time. This tragedy has been going on for far too long. Wake up India! Wake up and realize that even when you’re outside the comedy club, the joke’s on you. (I can see my job is in danger!)

BOOKS IMAGES COURTESY: THAMES & HUDSON; LOUIS VUITTON; SUNEET VARMA.

the culprits ‘brothers’ and begged before them to stop. This could have saved her dignity and life. Can one hand clap? I don’t think so.” What Asaram Bapu did not realize is that zero hands were clapping for his remark. What he also didn’t realize is that while one hand cannot clap, it sure can slap!