Flash Profile and fragrance research: the world of perfume in the consumer's words Germaine Gazano1, Stéphanie Ballay1, Nourite Eladan1, Jean-Marc Sieffermann2
1 LVMH
Parfums et Cosmétiques International Market Research and Cosmetic Evaluation 33, av. Hoche F-75008 Paris France Tel: +33 (0) 149 538 500 Email: ggazano@diormail.com ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
2 E.N.S.I.A.-Massy
Laboratoire de Perception Sensorielle et Sensométrie 1, av. des Olympiades F-91744 Massy Cedex France Tel: +33 (0) 169 935 138 Email: jms@ensia.fr
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Introduction
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2004 Nobel Prize in Physiology & Medicine Richard Axel and Linda Buck "Odorant receptors and the organization of the olfactory system"
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2003 Nobel Prize in Physiology & Medicine Paul C. Lauterbur and Peter Mansfield "Magnetic Resonance Imaging"
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G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et CosmĂŠtiques
Context and objectives Our Questions _
The mysterious words of the perfumer: How can I understand them ?
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The sophisticated expert discourse. How can I communicate it ?
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The expert-perfumer creative approach: How link it to the consumers' perceptions ?
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Perfumes emotions and desires: Which words to communicate this ?
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This ideal perfumers' perfume: Is this the ultimate perfume ? Will the consumers be happy with it ?
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How communicate the perfumers' visions with the consumers emotions and desires ?
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G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et CosmĂŠtiques
Context and objectives Reducing the gap Expert perfumers Individual experts Creation, emotion, desire Sophisticated words from a personal creative universe
Sensory descriptive panel (Sensory experts) A limited number of trained and experienced subjects Using quantified consensual and well defined descriptive terms on subsets of products.
Consumers A large and representative number of “naïve” subjects The final users Their own personal universes and different words ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Descriptive Analysis Techniques and Sensory
PROFILES Conventional profiling is the reference method: The Flavor Profile Method - Arthur D. Little,1950 The Texture Profile Method - Cicille and Szczesniak, 1973 QDAÂŽ methodology - Stone et al., 1974 The Spectrum Method - Munoz and Civille, 1992
This takes
EFFORT and TIME ! ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
_ A limited number of panelists _ A descriptive evaluation without hedonic evaluation _ A consensual vocabulary _ A quantitative evaluation
A strong consensual vocabulary on a specific product set Each sensory attribute : A definition A standardized procedure Reference products G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et CosmĂŠtiques
What is Flash Profile ? Free Choice Profiling (Williams et Langron, 1984)
Semantic freedom for choosing the descriptive attributes and their number
Flash Profile (Sieffermann, 2000) Fully comparative methodology while studying the products, choosing the descriptive attributes and immediate ranking of the products ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et CosmĂŠtiques
Why is Flash Profile done like this ? Why using Free Choice Description ? _ _
_ _
_
No need for long vocabulary defining and training sessions Allows working with performant individualist professionals (Perfumers, Oenologists, Flavourists) Less consensual but more specific vocabulary Allows working with panelists from different countries and languages No need for group sessions
Why a full comparative methodology ? _ _ _
No need for a specific product training phase Better product discrimination Focus on the really important and perceptible products' sensory differences
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G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et CosmĂŠtiques
Using Flash Profile for what ? Adam C, Cartier R, Sieffermann JM, Danzart M. 2002. IFT, Anaheim, USA, 16-19 June 2002.
What were the objectives ? _
Mapping competitive sensory markets
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Comparing international descriptive expertises
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External preference mapping
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Preparing for a full conventional profile
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Experimental planning validation
Ballay S, Sieffermann JM, Gazano G. 2003. Pangborn Symposium 2003, Boston, USA. Dairou V, Sieffermann JM. 2002. Journal of Food Science, 67(2) : 826-834. Dairou V, Sieffermann JM, Priez A, Danzart M. 2003.. Symposium 2003, Detroit, USA. Delarue J, Sieffermann JM. 2004. Food Quality and Preference, 15 : 383-392. Delarue J, Sieffermann JM. 2000. 13th International Symposium Olfaction & Taste / 14th European Chemorecemtion Research Organisation Congress, Brighton, UK, 20-24 July 2000, pp. 225226. Delarue J. 2002. Thèse de Doctorat en Sciences Alimentaires, ENSIA, Massy, France. 151 p. De Tudert V, 1999. Mémoire de DEA Sciences Alimentaires, ENSIA, Massy, France. 20 p. Loescher E, Sieffermann JM, Pinguet C, Kesteloot R, Cuvelier G. 2001. 5th Pangborn Symposium , Dijon, France, June 2001 Sieffermann JM. 2000. AGORAL 2000-XIIèmes rencontres "L'innovation: de l'idée au succès", pp. 335-340. Sieffermann JM. 2002. Flash profiling. AIFST 35th convention, Sydney, Australia. 21-24 july 2002. Sieffermann JM, Loescher E. 2003. AIFST 2003, Melbourne, Australia. Tarea S, Danzart M, Sieffermann JM, Cuvelier G. 2003. Pangborn Symposium 2003, Boston, USA. Tarea S, Sieffermann JM, Cuvelier G. 2003. IUFOST 2003, Chicago, USA.
Roc Johnson & Johnson Roc Johnson & Johnson LVMH – Christian Dior LVMH – Christian Dior Pernod-Ricard Pernod-Ricard L'OREAL L'OREAL Renault Renault PSA PSA SODIAAL Yoplait SODIAAL Yoplait Mumm Perrier Jouet Mumm Perrier Jouet SEITA SEITA www.perception-sensorielle.com
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G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Using Flash Profile with both experts and consumers Expert perfumers Individual experts Creation, emotion, desire Sophisticated words from a personal creative universe
Flash Profile
Sensory descriptive panel (Sensory experts) A limited number of trained and experienced subjects Using quantified consensual and well defined descriptive terms on subsets of products.
Flash Profile
Consumers A large and representative number of “naïve” subjects The final users Their own personal universes and different words
Flash Profile
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G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Materials and Methods
PRODUCTS
Perfumes Names _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Angel Thierry Mugler Eau de Parfum Cinema Yves Saint Laurent Eau de Parfum Pleasures Estée Lauder Eau de Parfum Aromatic Elixir Clinique Lolita Lempicka Eau de Parfum N°5 Chanel Eau de Toilette Instant Eau de Parfum J'Adore Eau de Toilette J'Adore Eau de Parfum Pure Poison Eau de Parfum Shalimar Eau de Toilette Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum
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Perfume codes _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
AngelEP CinemaEP PleasuresEP AromaticElixir LolitaLempickaEP N5ET InstantEP JadoreET JadoreEP PurePoisonEP ShalimarET CocoMademoiselleEP
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Materials and Methods
PANELS
Expert Perfumers Six perfumers [2 M - 4 F / 26 to 55 years old] Professional perfumers : Guerlain, Dior and partners
Consumers 89 naïve consumers [women from 27 to 55 years old] Heavy users of perfumes No previous experience in perfumes sensory description ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Materials and Methods
FLASH PROFILE METHODOLOGY _ _
_
The whole product set is presented simultaneously Each expert panellist produces his own attributes according to the major differences he perceives among the products The panellist immediately rank products on the chosen descriptors.
The sessions are individual and usually last between 2 to 3 hours.
Expert Perfumers Between 1 hour and 2 hours 30 minutes
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Consumers Between 45 minutes and 1 hour 30 minutes
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et CosmĂŠtiques
Materials and Methods
STATISTICAL DATA ANALYSIS
Aromatic Elixir
J’adore ET
Lolita Lempicka EP Angel EP
Méthode de Ward sur distance euclidienne
0 Axis 1 (43%)
eu
02 6 -P 05 P0nd -P e- and brrma 1 m urm -P0 AGoou nde G rma Gou
Coco Mademoiselle EP Instant EP Cinéma EP
J’adore EP
Axis 2 (24%)
Axis 2 (24%)
Pleasures EP
0
V re u0d1 Pl-oP e ua qim riF 06 2 -P0 hypre-P usn ra MA oisoeuliC i 1 s B 0 VFelo h 1 0 Su tcoir suel-P04 rFVle e-Pmb PaC is-P VertFGleaz ris a -O r_-Chaud-Sen lBu eru utF P rira rt01 -P 0S-P -P agv 06P0 on 4rea302 ien 0 C c04 n-P OrOstentatoi ru 03tal-A re-P02 6 se-P nt-P Boi 1 P e 0 Ecoeura re0 ud r 6 Po 0 e ue P 5 03 4uav-P-P 0B6 P0P0 siq rtas ClCrL rd-P irlaou MusqueVe 05 oiseC 0e3s FloralLege FraPi0s-1S O C 0a5ud - eruPm Gh-roP iyh ep ug oVseertA Ori n u R tealV q l rrm ra s A u o anuat nental-P l e F d ille doSm iM 0 r e ucne-P0 2 p reBVo1 s He ainse illSeo -Pm0b 4re-P 04 0
Fl
120015 de0-P AEldpeichreay-P l-P0e-P Flo qu us M
Shalimar ET Pure Poison EP
01
-P
lle
i an
Fr u F iV te Fruruite a-Pn0 ite- -P0ill4 P FruiteGFr 021e-P ou uirm teFr anai Flim dA sL ru ouiten e-ta rd P05 3 03 -P 060-P ire
N5 ET
AA e grld esthyde-P eLa 03 van deH
esp
eri
de-
P0
6
Experts
Axis 1 (43%)
Classification des produits après GPA
Procrustes Analysis
0.5 0.45 0.4
PCA
0.35 0.3 0.25
Cluster Analysis
0.2 0.15 0.1 JadoreET
PleasuresEP
JadoreEP
LolitaLempickaEP
AngelEP
AromaticElixir
ShalimarET
N5ET
PurePoisonEP
CocoMademoiselleEP
CinemaEP
InstantEP
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Excel™ and XLStat™
Consumers G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Results and Discussion Semantic comparison -- Number Number of of Attributes Attributes
47 semantic attributes 31 different attributes
4
Number of Experts
Experts
5
3
2
1
0 1
Mean : 7.8 attributes/consumer
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
9
10
11
12
Number of Descriptive Terms
Consumers
30 25
Number od Consumers
557 semantic attributes 196 different attributes
2
20 15 10 5
Mean : 6.3 attributes/consumer ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
0 1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Number of Descriptive Terms
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et CosmĂŠtiques
Results and Discussion Semantic comparison- Attributes Specificity Experts Agreste, Lavande, Hespéride, Automne, Aldéhyde, Alimentaire, Clair, Cru, Gazon Oranger, Ostentatoire, Sombre
Consumers
Frais-Fraicheur-Froid, Capiteux, Léger, Féminin, Intensité, Couleur-Coloré, Poivré, Fort-Force, Lourd, Tenue-Tenace, Discret, Jeune-Jeunesse-Juvénile, Masculin, Naturel, Piquant, Raffiné, Acide-Acidulé, Citron-Citrus-Citronné, Entêtant, Bonbon, Doux-Douceur, Envoutant, Original, PrintempsPrintannier, Elégant, Enveloppant, Puissant ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Results and Discussion Semantic comparison Attributes specificity --
Experts
Fleur-Floral-Fleuri,Sucré,FruitFruité,Sensuel-Sensualité-Poudre-Poudré, Boisé, Epicé, Vert-Verdure, Chaud-Chaleur, Gourmand, Oriental, Vanille-Vanillé, MuscMusqué, Agrumes, Ambré, Chypré, Cuir, Ecoeurant, Animal, Végétal
Consumers ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Results Experts' Sensory Map Axis 2 (24%) Aromatic Elixir
N5 ET
Clustering of the products after GPA Experts Pure Poison EP
Shalimar ET
Pleasures EP
Coco Mademoiselle EP Instant EP Cinéma EP J’adore EP JadoreEP J’adoreJadoreET ET PleasuresEP
InstantEP
PurePoisonEP
ShalimarET
CinemaEP
N5ET
AromaticElixir
AngelEP LolitaLempickaEP
CocoMademoiselleEP
Lolita Lempicka EP
Angel EP ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
Axis 1 (43%)
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Results Experts Sensory Description
de-P01 Aldehy -P01 Epice P02 ral-
Flo
5
av
P0
Su
Fr uit uit V e-P e- an Fru 01P0 ille ite4 -P P02 03
e-
P0
1
a eV d0r1 u P Paoluiem q n 2 usA -P0 M -P06 ise o ypre B h C i l hou-P01 01 PatcCBuoiris e-P el-P04 haud-Sensu ntal-Ambr_-C rie O Boise-P03 Ostentatoire-P02 Boi se-P 05 Cha CO Ghroyiepn udOrie tealV urrm ntal Aauan -P0 ille 2 tom nd Sun -P0 creeBo1 Vaise nilSo le- m P0bre 4 -P 04
02 6 -P 5 P0 nd 0 e- a d-P br rm n m u a A Go rm u 1 Go -P0 nde rma
Fr
ll ni
Gou
eP0 5 VertF F FlorraailseSuer-O Fleuri-P l-VPe0r4c-Pra0n6g VertGazo nCru-P0014 t-P03 er-P0 6 Ecoeurant-P02 0 06 re-P ud -P05 rtla Po Ve 04 ique 3 ir-P MusqueClass 0C -P rd u o rL e FloralLeg 6 -P0 arvte-P01 u S is e 03 Fra V -P ose uPe01 R l q a r uses Flo Mm ru g A es rid e sp He
FruiteFra isLourd-P 06 Fruite-P urmandA 05 limentair e-P03
is
e-
ra
qu
riF
us
eu
M
Fl
Al A g dehyde res -P03 teL ava nd eH e
spe
rid
e-P
06
Attributes plot of the Experts' Flash Profile
ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
FruiteGo
0
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et CosmĂŠtiques
Results Experts' Sensory Map Axis 2 (24%) N5 ET
Aromatic Elixir
Shalimar ET Pure Poison EP
ise hypre Bohoiru-lPiC 01 u c e t oisAmbré-Chaud-Sensuel Pa CB Oriental-
Pleasures EP
vet a u r aisS Vees ue r F J’adore EP m sq ose u u R l r ra gM J’adore Flo ET esA rid e sp He
Coco Mademoiselle EP Instant EP Cinéma EP
Lolita Lempicka EP
Angel EP ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
Axis 1 (43%)
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Results Experts' Sensory Description Clustering of the Experts' attributes 3.5
3
2.5
2
1.5
1
0.5
VertFraisàSec Boisé Floral Aldéhyde Aldéhyde Fleur-Oranger Vanillé FleuriFraisàSuave Musqué-Poudre-Vanillé AgresteLavandeàHesperide Epicé Fruité FruitéFraisàLourd Fruité-Gourmand-Alimentaire Fruité Musqué Fruité Fruité MusquéClassiqueàPoudré Musqué Floral FloralRoseFraisàSuave Ecoeurant Vert Hesperides-Agrumes Clair Vert FloralLégeràLourd Vert Vert-Gazon-Cru Fleuri PatchouliChypré Boisé Cuir Animal Chypre-Automne-Boisé-Sombre Oriental-Ambré-Chaud-Sensuel Boisé Ostentatoire Boisé Gourmand-Sucré-Vanillé Gourmand Chaud-Oriental Oriental-Vanille Ambré Gourmand Gourmande
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
Results Consumers' Sensory Map Axis 2 (20%) N5 ET
Aromatic Elixir
Clustering of the products after GPA Consumers
Shalimar ET
Coco Mademoiselle EP Pure Poison EP J’adore ET J’adore EP Cinema EP Pleasures EP Instant EP
0
J'adore ET
Instant EP
Salimar ET
Angel EP
J'adore EP
Cinˇma EP
Aromatic Elixir
Lolita Lempicka EP
Pure Poison EP
N5 ET
Pleasures EP Coco Mademoiselle EP
Lolita Lempicka EP
Angel EP 0 ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
Axis 1 (45%)
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Results Consumers Sensory Description Ca
Gourmand-Chocolat-Vanille-C22 Sucré-Capiteux-C1885 Leger-C25 Capiteux-Fort-Lourd-C 0 30 8 C -C 4473 Sucré-C So3ir é2-C -C 2 u é it 6 n c Stiu3 t7arenuscré- 4 34 Ma-C bona-C nfance-C ucré-Borén-S u ve In Ssuel-C 80 S aramel-E c u en S 58 e-C Sucré-C 12 S cré-C enu 7 e-C Su 9 T -C5 2 tens 9 6 4 rt-In d-C3 t-C2024 25 d C58 u aeniu2lt--x3CC-C8é-Chauic4é--C63 x-Fo q0u Cha iteu e r e-C i C u 6 u l p5 é 6 8 s Cap me --CPnnu-sNp ud -C E1-Cis -C ara vrnét tSeSueixr Po al C3é o ré o -Fito-Iréit-e rigin2séu-sc6B at-C 0 uc P t n col 2li anta uacp Cho pnpte SC 37nt-Olem-Ce Mrt-C S eloE t-C ta 2 irla 46 o nv an ou C6ana C -F x-E ét nv t- VC - d eu nt E anré- deau -E pit uur c hauCh e rd Ca co S e-C ou é t-E x-L br eu an pit ss Am ui Ca eP al nt rie O
Attributes plot of the Consumers' Flash Profile
pi
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0
ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Linking Experts and Consumers Descriptions Consumers Experts AngelEP LolitaLempickaEP
ShalimarET AromaticElixir
PurePoisonEP N5ET
Animal, Musqué Musqué Poudré Poudré, Patchouli Chypré Chypré Boisé Boisé Cuir Oriental Vanillé Vanillé, Lavande Hespé Hespéridé ridé
InstantEP
Angel EP Capiteux, Lolita Lempicka EP Enveloppant, Envoû Envoûtant, Provocant, Entê Entêtant, Chaud, Shalimar ET Lourd, Puissant, Aromatic Elixir Animal, Profond, Oriental, Épicé picé, N5 ET Musqué Musqué, Chypré Chypré, Poivré Poivré, Aromatique, Poudré Poudré, Fé Féminin, Raffiné Raffiné, Élégance, Distinction Instant EP
Cinéma EP
CinemaEP
Pure Poison EP CocoMademoiselleEP
Jadore EP Jadore ET PleasuresEP ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
Fleuri, Fruité Fruité, Frais, Lé Léger, Agrume, Fruité Fruité, Hespé Hespérides Agrumes
J’adore ET
Naturel, Discret, Jeune, Dynamique,
J’adore EP
Printanier,
Coco Mademoiselle EP
Pleasures EP
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
Preconceived ideas
_
Not possible to do for consumers ? Too difficult ? Too long ? Too many perfumes ?
_
Consumers think hedonic only ?
_
Difficult to be in line with perfumers ?
_
Impossible to link experts and consumers ?
ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et CosmĂŠtiques
Conclusions
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Consumers had no problems using the Flash Profile methodology
_
Consumers and description Not a simple “hedonics only” description
_
Perfumers and Consumers Similarities and differences
_
Translating the consumers words into Perfumers expert descriptions
ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et Cosmétiques
What's next ?
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Consumers clustering
_
Screening proposals according to the expected marketing and consumers' evocations
_
Create the most relevant and evocative briefs for the perfumers
ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et CosmĂŠtiques
Thank you and Acknowledgements
_
The authors would like to thank the 89 consumers and the 6 perfumers for their patience and seriousness
_
The authors would specially like to thank Prof. Marc Danzart for his help with the statistical data treatment.
ESOMAR 2005 - New-York, NY
G. Gazano et al. LVMH Parfums et CosmĂŠtiques