KANAZAWA
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COLOPHON Š2020 Leah Robertson Printed by Blurb Made in Graphic Design 1 Made with Adobie CC 2020 Typefaces used: Questa Grande Ballinger Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro Photos: Yaya and Floyd The portable wife will fly for food Unsplash Antonio Prado Kei Nakada Hoejin Iwai Zing Yhu Ryunosuke Kikuno Goh Win Nie Jet del la Cruz Annintofu Takahiro Taguchi Alo Japan Geofrrey Baumbach Fabriozo Conti Mike Ko Noah Usry Sahadiansyah Society6 Leah Robertson Articles: Japanguide.com All Ponds Solutions Kanazawa Tourist Information Inside Kyoto Kanazawa Station Brittannica My Modern Met
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TABLE OF CONTENTS 4. Introduction 6. Kenrokuen Park 14. Kanazawa Castle 16. Twentith Century Art Museum 18. Higashi Chaya District 20. Omicho Fish Market 22. Japan Sea 24. Kanazawa Streets 26. Kanazawa Train Station 28. Traditional Kimono Dresses 32. Other Cities Nearby
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KA NA ZA WA
During the Edo Period, Kanazawa served as the seat of the Maeda Clan, the second most powerful feudal clan after the Tokugawa in terms of rice production and fief size. Accordingly, Kanazawa grew to become a town of great cultural achievements, rivaling Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo). During World War Two, Kanazawa was Japan’s second largest city (after Kyoto) to escape destruction by air raids. Consequently, parts of the old castle town, such as the Nagamachi samurai district and chaya entertainment districts, have survived in pretty good condition. Today, Kanazawa remains an important city in its region and serves as the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture. The city boasts many historical attractions such as restored residences and districts, as well as modern museums. But Kanazawa’s unchallenged main attraction is Kenrokuen, one of Japan’s “three best landscape gardens” and by many considered the most beautiful of them all. Kanazawa is a relatively compact city with a fine group of sights located around a green core formed by Kanazawa Castle Park and Kenroku-en Garden (both among the city’s best sights). South of the park you’ll find three great museums. Within easy distance of the central core are some fantastic districts of traditional houses that used to serve as the city’s entertainment districts.
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ALL ABOUT KENROKUEN PARK
Kenrokuen in Kanazawas a gorgeous and expansive park-like garden in the center of Kanazawa and it is the city’s major attraction. Extending over almost 25 acres, it was once the outer garden of Kanazawa Castle, but was opened to the public in 1874.
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Together with Kairakuen Garden in the city of Mito, and Korakuen Garden in the city of Okayama, Kenrokuen is considered. Here you will find colorful seasonal floral displays, streams, ponds, and waterfalls, stone lanterns, and historical green tea houses.
The garden was created by the ruling Maeda family over three centuries beginning in 1676 with a landscape garden called Renchitei. This garden was destroyed by fire in 1759, but was restored in 1774, and in 1822 the garden acquired its current name Kenrokuen. This name is sometimes translated as “garden of six elements�. Actually it refers to a classical Chinese poem that spoke of the six contrasting features for a truly outstanding garden. These essential elements are: extensive space and quiet seclusion, human artistry and old fashioned elegance, lowing water and very distant
views. According to the poem it is almost impossible to create a garden that holds all six elements in common. However, if you take a stroll through Kenrokuen, you can actually find them all. The garden boasts Japan’s oldest fountain which is powered by natural water pressure and happily combines two of the six traditional elements in one: human artistry and flowing water.
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The natural rise and fall of the garden pathways will take you to both secluded resting points, and then suddenly open out to expansive views, like that over the Kasumigaike pond. Happily the trees of Kenrokuen are better cared for these days. In winter the pine trees in the garden are protected with ropes that are tied in a cone shaped arrangement to prevent heavy snowfalls from breaking the branches. These protective ropes are called yukitsuri and are a famous winter sight of Kenrokuen . The big pond called “Kasumigaike” was compared to an open sea, and an island, on which an ageless hermit with miraculous power was believed to live, was constructed in the pond in hope of the long life and eternal prosperity of the lord. Kenrokuen, which means “having six factors”, was given the name because of the six attributes that bring out the perfect landscape of the garden: spaciousness, tranquility, artifice, antiquity, water cources, and magnificent view from the garden. There is a stone lantern designed in the image of the Japanese koto (harp) by the pond, which becomes the symbol of Kenrokuen Garden. There is a fountain created using the natural pressure of water flowing from the higher pond. Full of flowers and trees, such as plum and cherry blossoms in spring, azaleas and irises early in summer, and colorful red and yellow leaves in autumn.
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Koi fish have a very long and colourful (literally) history. The vibrant varieties seen in many ponds today have descended from the common solid black carp. Now, not only are they culturally symbolic, but they are a hobby for millions of people around the world. Let’s take a step back in time and find out how these ornamental fish became so significant. Black carp, or Magoi, were originally brought into Japan from China when the
Chinese invaded
Japan around 200 BC. The Japanese are known for being the first in koi history to breed fish that had naturally occurring mutations, which as a result introduced colour to the species. Rice farmers in Japan used to keep koi fish as a food source when they were originally introduced to the country, and could be found in the country’s rice paddies. When the farmers began to notice the mutations that were happening due to crossbreeding, they began to selectively breed the koi themselves for the carp’s appealing colourful scales. This is thought to have begun in the early 1800’s and led to the earliest varieties, such as the Narumi Asagi. The earliest breed produced by chance was Magoi with red bellies. From this red-bellied Magoi came across from a Magoi and Higoi; we know them as Benigoi. This eventually led to producing Hi and Ki Bekkos with their black markings. The pale blue-based Asagi came to produce the white-based koi. White-sided asagi, or Taki Asagi, were used to eventually produce the first Kohaku, and then Goshiki, with Goromo after that. Taki-asagi Koi played a role in producing white carp with red spots. These were the first coloured carp to be called Kohaku, which are the most popular koi kept today.
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金沢城 KANAZAWA CASTLE
From 1583 to the end of the Edo Period, Kanazawa Castle was the seat of the powerful Maeda Clan, lords of Kaga, a feudal domain ranking second only to the Tokugawa possessions in terms of size and wealth. The castle burnt down several times over the centuries, and the most recent fires of 1881 were survived only by two storehouses and the Ishikawa-mon Gate. The gate dates from 1788 and faces Kenrokuen. For several decades, Kanazawa University occupied the former castle grounds until the campus was moved to the city’s outskirts in the early 1990s. Since then, a project is underway to rebuild the castle’s former buildings. In the meantime, most central structures are standing again and make a visit more interesting. Kanazawa Castle Park is a large park in the center of Kanazawa and is accessible from many different sides of the park. The most popular approach is through the Ishikawa-mon Gate, which is located only a few meters away from the main entrance of Kenrokuen. Several of the castle’s other gates have also been reconstructed, including the former main entrance gate, the Kahoku-mon Gate (in 2010) and the Nezumita-mon Gate (in 2020) near Oyama Shrine. The upper floors of both gates can be entered for free and contain displays about the gates’ history and construction. In 2015, the Gyokuseninmaru Garden, a pretty garden with a central pond and circular walking path, was reconstructed and can be enjoyed for free. The castle’s main keep was lost in a fire in 1602 and has not been rebuilt ever since.
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TWENTITH CENTURY ART MUSEUM NEW ART MEETS OLD TOWN The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art is an innovative facility in central Kanazawa which houses several galleries of modern art as well as a library, café, and communal learning spaces. The building itself is celebrated for its unique exterior design and internal layout, and is now one of Kanazawa’s most popular tourist attractions. Kanazawa’s 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art opened in 2004 and was designed by two famous Japanese architects: Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa of the SANAA architecture studio. They created a low-lying and expansive, white, circular building that looks very much like a giant space ship that has landed quite neatly on the grass lawn that surrounds it. The museum has no main entrance and can be entered from all sides. This accessibility is emphasized by the glass walls that surround the museum’s exterior and which flood the galleries with natural light. Inside the museum many galleries are arranged in a puzzling maze of interconnecting rooms, which encourages a playful sense of exploration and discovery.
The museum has permanent installations and temporary exhibitions that display both Japanese and international contemporary artworks. The art is conceptual but fun and encourages physical interaction, making the museum feel very relaxed and rather like a giant playground. For this reason many families with children visit the museum, and it is not unusual to see people laughing and smiling as they wander through the galleries.The museum’s ticket counter is located on the east side of the building by the Honda-Dori Entrance. The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art is centrally located and very close to Kenrokuen Garden and Kanazawa Castle Park. From Kenrokuen you can walk to the museum in 6 minutes and from the castle you can walk there in 10 minutes. From Kanazawa Station it is a 20 minute bus ride. The Kanazawa Loop Bus leaves every few minutes from bus terminal 7 at the station’s East Exit and costs 200 yen.
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HIGASHI CHAYA DISTRICT Higashi Chaya-gai is a beautifully preserved historical area of Kanazawa with many traditional wooden buildings. This area was established in 1820 as an entertainment district for rich merchants and nobility. The name Higashi Chaya-gai literally means “Eastern Teahouse District,” because the chaya, or teahouses, were where wealthy customers would be entertained by geisha with traditional music, dancing, and drinking games. Many of these buildings have today been converted into restaurants or souvenir craft shops, but there are two geisha teahouses that are open to the public during the day. In this article we will introduce Higashi Chaya-gai’s chief highlights. Ochaya Shima is a historical geisha house which has been preserved as a museum and it is an essential stop when visiting this area. Here you can see how the geisha lived and worked and enjoy a cup of green tea with a sweet. The house is open daily from 9.00 – 18.00 and entry costs 500 yen. For more details see our article: Ochaya Shima Geisha House. Kaikaro is a working geisha house that is open to the general public during the day. At night it is an exclusive house of entertainment for wealthy patrons only. However, this house does host some special geisha events that anyone can attend. This house is open to the public from 9.00 – 17.00 and entry costs 750 yen. For further details see our article: Kaikaro Geisha Teahouse. Gold Leaf Sakuda sells many goods decorated with gold leaf, which is a traditional craft dating back 400 years in Kanazawa. At the main store you can take a tour of the factory, view the production process, and even try some gold leaf decoration yourself. The store is open from 9.00 – 18.00. For further details see our article: Gold Leaf Sakuda Main Store.
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OMICHO FISH MARKET Omicho Ichiba is a lively covered food market which has been in operation since 1721. Nicknamed “Kanazawa’s kitchen”, here you will find 186 different stores, selling seafood, fresh fruit and vegetables, and confectionery. There are also a number of grocery stores, clothing stores, flowers stalls, and restaurants. The market has a very cheerful atmosphere and is a great place to explore Kanazawa’s food and drink culture.
the market has a special restaurant section, all the best kasiendo places are on the 1st floor.
As Kanazawa is situated on the Japan Sea coast it is famous for its seafood. A stroll through Omicho Ichiba will give you an idea of the incredible and colorful variety of marine products available in this town.
In addition to seafood, Kanazawa is known for its sweet rice which is Wthat the town also has three very well established sake (rice wine) breweries: Fukumitsuya, Yachiya and Nakamura Shuzou. You can find these and other brands of sake from around Ishikawa Prefecture at Sake no Ohzawa Jizake Ichiba.
Crab, shrimp, and yellowtail amberjack are particularly known for their quality, but look out for edible seaweed too. Strips of sweet wakame seaweed are commonly used to flavor soups, and stringy mozuku seaweed is served in vinegar. Both are renowned for their health benefits! Many stalls have food samples you can taste, and others sell snacks you can eat as you walk around, with fresh oysters fried, broiled, or eaten raw being an especially tasty treat. No trip to Omicho Ichiba is complete without stopping at one of the many restaurants and enjoying a bowl of kaisendon, or sashimi style raw fish on a hot bowl of rice. Though the 2nd floor of
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There are many popular restaurants here, but searching for one in the market’s maze of alleyways will only leave you frustrated. Better to put your map away, and if you find a friendly looking restaurant with empty seats and reasonable prices just go in. You won’t be disappointed at all.
This is a 100-year-old shop in Omicho Market which boasts the best range of local sake and it has a nice range of local craft beers too. Ask the staff for their latest seasonal recommendations. Omicho Ichiba market is a 15 minute walk from Kanazawa Station. You can also take the Loop Bus there for 200 yen and be there in 5 minutes. Get off at Musashigatusji bus stop.
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STREET LIFE
ママチャリ
石川県に行く
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Back in the 15th century, a new branch of Buddhism became very popular in this region because it taught a sacred truth: that all people are equal. This teaching of equality inspired the local people to rise up and throw out their lords. They set up their own independent “Peasants’ Kingdom” which they ruled from a fortified temple on elevated ground. The temple was called Oyama Gobo and the city of Kanazawa grew up around it. After a century, this Buddhist kingdom fell and the temple was replaced by Kanazawa Castle, but Buddhist ideas and philosophy remained very important here. So perhaps the torii gate at the front of Kanazawa Station is partly a tribute to that religious origin.
Probably the most striking part of Kanazawa Station is its massive wooden gate. People exiting the station are always impressed when they first see this large vermilion structure, and it looks even more impressive when viewed from the other side, opposite the station, with the huge glass dome of the plaza roof rising behind it. There is usually a small crowd of tourists and travelers gathered just in front of the gate taking memorial pictures. You could say that this gate has become a symbol of Kanazawa itself. What is interesting about this gate is that it is built in the form of a traditional torii gate, and these gates usually stand at the entrance to a Japanese shrine. They are meant to mark the moment when you move between your ordinary day-to-day life and transition into a sacred space. Obviously putting a big red torii gate between the station and the city is very symbolic, but what exactly does it mean? Or when we move through the gate into Kanazawa are we entering a sacred city? This city does, after all, have many, many temples, and historically the city was actually born from a revolutionary religious idea.
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Very often in Japanese shrines, there is not just one gate, but a series of gates, and actually this is true of Kanazawa Station too. In the station building’s central concourse you can see that the roof is supported by a series of wooden pillars joined at the top by wooden beams. Built from local cypress wood there are 12 of these gates with 24 pillars. Take a closer look at them and you will see embedded in each one a beautiful piece of art. These artworks represent Kanazawa’s heritage crafts of lacquerware, woodwork, and ceramics. These crafts date from a long period of high artistic and cultural development in Kanazawa. In 1583, after the fall of the Peasants Kingdom, a general named Maeda Toshiie, was given control over the region. His family ruled from Kanazawa Castle for almost three centuries. During that time they invited many talented craftsmen and artists to work in Kanazawa and the city was transformed into a center of culture famed for its gold and silver leaf craftwork, lacquerware, ceramics, and silk. Noh theater and the geisha arts also flourished here at this time. You can see Noh represented in the torii gate at the front of the station. The two vertical pillars are shaped to resemble tsuzumi, a type of drum used in Noh theater, and that is why the gate is called the “Tsuzumi-mon” or “Tsuzumi Gate”.
You can find other traditional crafts such as yuzen silk, and washi paper, dotted around different parts of the station and even on the shinkansen platforms the tops of the pillars are decorated with gold leaf. The period of Maeda rule is seen as Kanazawa’s golden age, but this came to an end in the 19th century when Japan opened its borders to the world. A period of dramatic social and political change followed, in which the Maeda family lost power and Kanazawa lost its regional influence. In the 1870s while other major cities underwent rapid industrialization, and were connected by an ever expanding network of railways, Kanazawa fell behind. In fact the railway didn’t arrive in Kanazawa until the end of the century.
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着物
KIMONO For generations, Japanese style has been defined by a single garment: the kimono. Historically significant, aesthetically fascinating, and steeped in symbolism, the kimono captures the exquisite elegance of Japanese culture and design, proving that clothing can be much more than meets the eye.
Here, we look at the fascinating evolution of the kimono, tracing its exceptional history from the 8th century through the present and exploring its role in contemporary Japanese culture.
Their colors also hold symbolic significance. Additionally, the pigments used to achieve certain colors are also representative.Kimonos are made from various handmade and hand-decorated fabrics. Traditionally, these include linen, silk, and hemp. Today, materials like rayon, cotton, and polyester are often used. Unsurprisingly, however, the traditional, non-synthetic fabrics are highly favored.
Derived from the words ki (“wear”) and mono (“thing”), the kimono is a traditional Japanese garment. Kimonos come in a range of styles and patterns. They are typically hand-sewn into a “T” shape from 4 single pieces of fabric called tans and tied with an obi, or belt. In addition to their unique aesthetic, kimonos are valued for their symbolism; style, motif, color, and material work together to reveal the individual identity of the wearer. Traditional kimonos come in a variety of styles. The type of style worn is dictated by a range of specific criteria, including gender, marital status, and event. For example, an unmarried woman would wear a furisode (“swinging sleeves”) to a formal event, while a male a store owner would wear a happi (a type of jacket) to a festival. Patterns, symbols, and other designs also help communicate the wearer’s status, personality traits, character and virtues. Similar to woodblock prints, popular motifs include nature-inspired elements, like leaves, blossoms, and birds (namely, cranes).
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OTHER CITIES NEARBY The history of Nagoya dates from 1610, when a great castle was erected by the Owari branch of the powerful Tokugawa shogunate. The development of Nagoya’s port, especially after World War II, and the advantages of the city’s central location and abundant hydroelectric power from the rivers of central Honshu stimulated the growth of heavy industry. The traditional manufactures of timepieces, bicycles, and sewing machines were followed by the production of special steels, chemicals, oil, and petrochemicals, as the area’s automobile, aviation, and shipbuilding industries flourished.
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Mount Fuji is with 3776 meters Japan’s highest mountain. It is not surprising that the nearly perfectly shaped volcano has been worshiped as a sacred mountain and experienced big popularity among artists and common people throughout the centuries. Another easy way to view Mount Fuji is from the train on a trip between Tokyo and Osaka. If you take the shinkansen from Tokyo in direction of Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka, the best view of the mountain can be enjoyed from around Shin-Fuji Station.
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NAGOYA
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