Ravendale

Page 1

Ravensdale Bouldering North Yorkshire Moors


Black Circuit F7a -F9a

Red Circuit F6a- F6c

Blue Circuit F5-F5c

Orange Circuit F3-F4c

Beta Guides do not claim to have climbed the first ascents of these lines, we are documenting them as a result of our explorations and for others to enjoy, inspiring bouldering in beautifully unique settings. IMPORTANT: Climbing is dangerous and that we are responsible for our own safety, Please be careful you climb at our own risk, Please abide by the countryside code do not litter, do not chip the rock, use designated paths close gates, repect any wildlife, do not climb any routes with nesting birds. Check access via the Countryside Access web site. If you would like to get in touch, to report a new problem, or query existing ones, please contact me at lee@betaguides.com.

A perfect problem, enlightening. A good problem, worth doing. A good but bizarre problem, often morpho. A dangerous problem, tread carefully. A power problem, not for weaklings. A technical and delicate problem. A dynamic or a long reach problem. Needs cold conditions. Traverse. Attempted or future project


Betaguides

Robinhoods Bay

Ravensdale

Ravensdale boulders

Grid Ref: NZ 958 023 Rock: Sandstone

Ravenscar Staintondale

Warning! some flakes are brittle

Cloughton

A delightful small North facing sandstone quarry venue with views to the sea and over Robin Hood’s Bay to

Scarborough

the North. Containing the impressive and enigmatic Two Sister boulders, set beneath the main quarry

99 Block

face. The North facing aspect gives grip even in Summer. Provides varied

Cheese Block

Smuggler Limpet

climbing on overhanging, vertical and slabby rock, using slopers, crimps and thin cracklines. Roadside

V1 Big Sister

Little Sister

parking right next to quarry, so walk-in is mimimal.

h Nort

P


Rob Lonsdale FA Asbo Pops


Big Sister

Little Sister

The largest and most imposing block in the quarry.

A nice warm up block with many hard problems, as well some Hi balls.

1: Desperate Dan F7a SS from a pocket and angled RHS sloper, pull hard to slopers and then rightwards to crimp. Rockover left to crimp sidepull to finish on sloping rail.

4: Panda Pops F6a+ SS from a layback to two small crimps, then pop for the top. 5: ASBO Pops F6c+ Standing start, from an LH undercut and RH sloper then pop for the angled side-rail. Rock over and top out leftwards over the arete. A sloping masterpiece.

Project Two extension can be done from the same start. Straight up from the sloping rail or out right to the arete from the far right hand crimp from a mono finish up the arete.

6: Fox F6b+ Standing start. Follow the crack along to a right hand sloper above the crack. Reach up to another RH sloper and top out around the arete.

2: Barry F6a+ From the obvious corner head up left to the undercut then rightwards to the jug. Drop off here or carry on to tick the route Barry E4 6a. FA Andrew Griffiths, Mick Taylor 7/7/96

7: Untitled F6a From SS climb over the overhang, then straight up via pockets to the obvious jug. Top out if feeling bold. FA Mark Parkin

3: Cool F6b+ From standing head up the rising arete leftwards. Rock up and over as you reach the first corner. A project extension to this is ‘Supercool’, for the soloist’s approach.

8: Scarface F6a From SS take the obvious thin fingercrack, rising rightwards. standing head up the rising arete. Rock over onto the slab to finish.

Project The sloping rail looks very tantalisling

9: Keyhole Surgery F7a+ From standing take a direct line over the overhang via a small two-finger pocket. Desperate!!! A true testpiece.

Chipping!! has been found on the steep side of the Big Sister Block, opening up three other problems. This is frowned upon and can cause serious damage to the rock!! Stop!!

V1 2 3 Big Sister

1

Big Sister


5 4

Little Sister

8 9

7

6

Little Sister

Limpet

99 Boulder

Block with the obvious sloping arete seen from the Little Sister.

(A bit flaky) The block with visible flakes below the main face. Caution, very brittle.

Project A project for the friction specialist with Limpet hands.

12

The Cheeseblock

The obvious pockmarked block uphill and looking down on BIg Sister

11

10

99 Boulder 12: Two scoops F6b SS take the short arete on the LHS.Rock onto the face to finish.

The Cheeseblock 10: Hard Cheese F7a SS at the lefthand end of the block. Head upwards and rightwards via any of the myriad small pockets, avoiding use of the top of the block. Drop down to finish around the right hand arete. A sustained challenge with bewildering choice of tiny holds. Harder than it looks. 11: Mini Cheddar F5 SS Sraight up the block where the top edge dips. Top out over the dip.

Smugglers Block The sloping block spotted with white lichen. Leans on a smaller block. Projects Two projects both starting at the eastern corner. Either take the rising arete to the left, from a sit start, or follow the right hand edge round and up to top out on the far corner.


Lisa Wastling Scarface

Hard Cheese

Glen Chapman FA Keyhole Surgery

Lee Robinson FA Desperate Dan


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