RJR
CONTENTS
Editor: Leisha Wong Contributing Writers: Karla Henry, Jessica Hylton, Natasha Levy, Claudette Powell, Jacqui Sinclair Photographers: Lance Brown, Jessica Hylton, SKKAN Media Design: Sharky Publisher: Kingston Kitchen Ltd. 10 Deanery Road, Kingston 16, Jamaica Email: kingstonkitchenja@gmail.com Tel: 876 . 573 . 8915 www.kingstonkitchenja.com Printed in Jamaica by The Herald Printery COVER: Photo by Jessica Hylton (www.jessicainthekitchen.com) For recipe, turn to page 22, Al Fresco Fresh.
EAT EAT EATFRESH FRESH FRESH EAT EAT EATLOCAL LOCAL LOCAL EAT EAT EATGOOD GOOD GOOD Join Join Join The The Movement The Movement Movement www.kingstonkitchenja.com www.kingstonkitchenja.com www.kingstonkitchenja.com
kingstonkitchen kingstonkitchen kingstonkitchen
@KGNKitchen @KGNKitchen @KGNKitchen
kingstonkitchenja@gmail.com kingstonkitchenja@gmail.com kingstonkitchenja@gmail.com
WELCOME
WELCOME
From left: Jacqui Sinclair, Melanie Miller and Leisha Wong. Photo Credit: SKKAN Media
Life in Jamaica isn’t always coconut trees, rum punches and endless beaches. For many of us, the reality is water lock offs, drought, soaring prices…and did we say water lock-offs? Sometimes you may need a reminder about why you choose to call Jamaica home. And then, you take a trip like we did to visit the most amiable hosts, Lisa and Chris Binns of Zionite Farms. Life is simpler up there. None of the mad hustle of the city to drown out the birds singing and the cool breeze blowing. And you can head up into cool Stony Hill to talk chocolate with Hellen and Averell at Mt. Plesant. Now, your reality is renewed.
Much of this Summer 2014 issue is about that. Celebrating the goodness of the earth, keeping it fresh and simple, and getting back to basics. It’s also about celebrating our local culinary movement that in the past few months has really gone global. Have you picked up your copies of the Rousseau’s sisters’ Caribbean Potluck, or Robin Lim Lumsden’s Belcour Cook Book? We have and could not get enough of the incredible recipes, and quality production that captures such intimate culinary tales of these phenomenal women. Check out our rundown of these books on page 38.
Heading off the beaten path sometimes, is necessary for your mental and physical health. It’s also necessary for the soul. It’s important to remember the small things, for our kids to play outside and eat fruit from a tree, and to watch your food being made, being able to pronounce all the ingredients that went into it. The simple life.
It’s about embracing the explosion of the local culinary movement, as consumers have an increased interest about the quality of food that goes into their bodies. We visited Zionite Farms (page 24) and Mt. Pleasant Chocolatiers (page 14), and re-discovered the power of thinking beyond the box. Approaching our local 5
Photos: Lance Brown
WELCOME
The spread from our recent Kingston Kitchen Recipe Card shoot. All created by our Jacqui “JuicyChef” Sinclair.
From left: Leisha Wong, Melanie Miller, Chef Brian Lumley and Jacqui Sinclair, at 689 by Brian Lumley produce with a global mind, and what you get is something quite stunning…and decadently delicious. And it’s about honouring the hard working people behind this movement. From the team that holds up Chef Brian Lumley, at the ever-popular 689 by Brian Lumley (page 35), to Natasha Levy, who turned her passion for single malt Scotch into a profession (page 36), the culinary industry continues to grow and grow. Kingston Kitchen continues to grow and grow also. This will be our only market event this year. As we release other arms of our brands, we want to focus and dedicate our energy to creating one, unforgettable night, which will bring foodies, families, 6
friends together with their favourite chefs, caterers, restaurateurs, gourmet artisans and commercial food producers, together. We also launched our recipe cards! A while in the development, we finally found a great partner who shared our passion for creating fresh, easy, healthy and accessible recipes for the home cook. Progressive Grocers of JA are truly a forward-thinking group of food minds that we are honoured to be working with. We still have some exciting plans for the rest of the year, so don’t worry, you will still be hearing from us. Until then, enjoy tonight, support our food vendors, and EAT GOOD!
Foodie love,
Leisha, Melanie and Jacqui
The “ Kitchenettes ”
IN SEASON
By Jacqui “JuicyChef” Sinclair
Going Green KEEP IT LIGHT, FRESH AND GREEN FOR THE SUMMER.
Photos by: Lance Brown
I have a thing for greens. I know they are not everyone’s cup of tea, but I cannot imagine my plate without some form of green on it. I recall the days in my early childhood when my mum had to force me to eat them. I would frown and pout, sometimes even throw a tantrum, regardless of the enticing dressings or little bribes she made to get me to eat them. I would often repeat what I overheard from adults—nothing missed my sharp little ears—and say I couldn’t understand why we had to eat the “bunny rabbit’s food”. My mum would say to me, Popeye (the cartoon character) eats spinach and look how strong he is, don’t you want to be strong and healthy when you grow up? You need to be strong in life. I would still roll my eyes. It wasn’t until I was a teen watching my mother work her “green thumb” magic in the garden
that I truly began appreciating vegetables from soil to plate. Observing the whole growth process from seed to plant and tasting the bounty of our garden, my palate became stimulating and I learned to crave these living foods. From earthy callaloo to smooth spinach leaves, to crisp lettuce and curly kale, one green variety has to feature during meal times in my household. As a gourmet cook and food writer, it is an exciting time of year for me, especially since the island in recent years has seen a proliferation of alternative greens from forward-thinking farmers who are growing a diversity of crops in our rich and abundant soil. Jamaica has diverse climes from sunny plains to cool hills capable of growing these nutrition rich powerhouses. 9
IN SEASON Where once only local greens were available, like callaloo, pak choy, mustard greens, iceberg and romaine lettuce for the most, now we consumers are spoilt for choice. In the supermarkets, farm to house deliveries and farmers markets, we are witnessing mixed varieties of lettuce leaves—from mild to bitter tasting such as red leaf, mizuna and curly leaf—sold separately or deliciously combined in variety packs.
seasonal vegetables. Although we have greens all year round, summer greens are especially tasty and flourish in abundance. Nothing beats the natural perfume of fragrant herbs scenting your kitchen. Lighter foods are a perfect counterpoint to heavy meals, which we no longer crave, in our seriously hot weather. Salads make the perfect seasonal meal, whether cold or with warm or room temperature elements.
We are also seeing more cooking greens on display such as spinach, kale, arugula, Swiss chard, and tatsoi. These versatile plant foods can be used as salad greens as well. Sprouts outside of traditional bean, such as alfalfa and the once-in-a-blue moon sighting of micro greens in the fresh produce aisle can be a real pleasure. The beauty is that these are not imports, but locally grown produce. With pressing economic conditions, now, more than ever, we need to buy what is produced here and support local. ` Summer for me, is salad season and oh! what joy do I have in my kitchen mixing and matching those greens with nuts, seeds, cheeses, deli meats, tofu and other
From a nutritional standpoint, greens are healthy too. They are filled with vitamins and minerals, which are great for our skin and hair, and packed with iron for healthy blood. They are fibre-rich, which keeps us full and satisfied as well as being fantastic for our digestive system and lowering cholesterol. Some greens are rich in calcium, perfect for strong bones and teeth. You can never eat too much so always try to sneak greens into your dishes whether via a salad, in your smoothies or braises. Make it a habit to have greens present in one of your daily meals.
Pot: JuicyChef's Kale with Bacon, Butterbeans and Onions 10
IN SEASON
JuicyChef’s “3A” Salad
JuicyChef’s Kale with Bacon, Butterbeans and Onions Sometimes the best recipes are the no-fuss, quick ones…plus bacon always makes everything taste so good! This 15-minute dish is tasty and filling, and works as a side dish or simply served with bread, or even tossed with pasta. This meal serves 4. Ingredients 5 rashers of bacon 2 tbsps. sunflower oil 1 onion, sliced 1 can of butterbeans, drained and rinsed 2 large bunches of kale, stems removed and discarded, washed and roughly chopped 1 tsp. Spanish smoked paprika Lemon juice, to taste Salt and pepper to taste Method • In a large saucepan over medium heat, warm oil until hot and add the bacon. Fry until crispy and remove. • To the same pan add Spanish smoked paprika and onions, sauté until soft and then add the butterbean, kale and cook until greens are soft and beans are warmed through. • Tear bacon to pieces and stir in the vegetable mixture, squeeze over some lemon and serve.
JuicyChef’s “3 A” Salad I call this my “3A” salad because the main components are spicy arugula, creamy avocado and tangy artichoke
hearts. As a result, there are no formal measurements outside of the light garlic infused dressing. Sometimes I like to serve this salad as is, or for something more substantial, I add grilled chicken breast. You could also add grilled shrimp. Ingredients 2 tbsps. lime juice 4 tbsps. extra virgin olive oil 1 small garlic clove, crushed ¼ scotch bonnet pepper, finely chopped Pinch of salt Arugula, I usually use a handful per person, washed and dried Avocado, I use half per person, cubed Artichoke hearts Toasted walnuts, for garnish Cheese (optional) Method • In a small bowl, whisk lime juice, extra virgin olive oil, garlic, scotch bonnet pepper and pinch of salt and set aside. • In a large bowl add arugula, avocado, and artichoke hearts, add dressing and toss to coat. • Divide onto individual plates and top with walnuts and shavings of cheese if using.
Foodie Love! JuicyChef XoXo 11
HEALTH
Spiritual Food
FEEDING THE SOUL THROUGH WORDS There’s a time every morning when we are half awake, half asleep and not quite fully conscious. At those moments, we have access to our unconscious mind and our inner workings. But like dew on the morning grass, it will soon be gone without a trace. Listening to these tender morning wisps allows us to reach into our inner world, the deeper part of ourselves that helps guide us on our path of transformation.
mind and you are not your thoughts. You are a spiritual being in a material world, moving forward toward the life you deserve, which is the life you truly came here to live.
Early morning pages are a stream of consciousness written in a journal first thing in the morning. Keep your journal by your bed and reach for it while you are still half asleep.
Once you have fed your soul, it is time to feed your body. This quick and easy non-dairy, green breakfast smoothie, is the ideal way to get delicious nutrients into your body, and power you up for the day.
Begin by writing down any memories you may have of your dreams. At first there may be nothing, or simply minor recollections, but as you do this over and over you will build the muscle. You’ll send a powerful message to your brain: I am prepared to accept my unconscious thoughts and feelings, and I accept that more and more will be revealed. You will develop a deep, direct relationship with your inner self. Next, write 10 things you are grateful for from yesterday. Usually our minds focus on everything that’s not going well. Your mind easily forgets that you have great friends, a place to live, plenty of food to eat, access to education, a job and freedom. Take time for thanksgiving and appreciating what went well yesterday.
JuicyChef’s Sugarloaf Pineapple and Spinach Smoothie This recipe makes 4 smoothies.
Watch your breath. Watch your mind. It’s like a meditation. Be still and just let it all pass from your mind onto the paper.
Ingredients 2 cups Blue Diamond unsweeted almond milk 1 cup Blue Diamond whole and natural almonds 4 cups spinach 2 cups pineapple chunks 1 large lime, juiced 1 large ripe banana Ice cubes
Method • Place all ingredients into a blender and puree until smooth. Next comes the stream of consciousness writing. Write • Divide equally amongst 4 glasses for at least a page, maybe two. Write whatever crosses and serve immediately. your mind. Nothing is too petty, too bad or too silly to write down. Nobody will be reading this, so write it all. No censoring. You will be amazed at what comes out For a consult, contact: of your sweet, innocent mind. Write quickly or write Karla Henry slowly. Find a pace that works for you. Certified Health Coach www.karlahenry.com All the angry, ugly stuff that you write in the morning would otherwise stand in the way of you being your Inspired by The Artist’s Way: A Spiritual Path to best you. By doing early morning pages, you get all Higher Creativity by Julia Cameron. those repressed thoughts out of your system so you can live your life and realize that you are not your © Integrative Nutrition 12
NATURE’S WAY
By Jacqui Sinclair
ONE ONE COCOA… Discovering the next Jamaican agricultural gem — cocoa.
Photos by Lance Brown
When it comes to chocolate, consumers are spoilt for choice. From intense dark, to creamy milk and rich white; in blocks, divided into squares, portions, balls or served as fancy truffles. They are served pure and plain, enrobe different nuts and fruit, filled with fudge or caramel, alcohol laced or spiced. Cakes, mousse, ice cream, chocolate milk and hot chocolate...the scents alone make chocoholics swoon. And it is claimed that chocolate stimulates the chemicals pheromones give off when humans are in love. So, where does chocolate originate? Chocolate is the by product of a very special plant, and to fully appreciate this treat prized the world over, we need to go back to its agricultural roots and rediscover the mighty cocoa. 14
Jamaica is famous for its prized Blue Mountain coffee, but there is another gem out there, and the confectionary world is taking notice. Jamaican cocoa, which many of us have taken for granted over the years, could become the next agricultural “gold mine” for our island. Averell French, a son of the Jamaican Diaspora, believed in the power of this Jamaican cocoa and moved to Jamaica, leaving a cushy London job as an architect and litigation surveyor, to invest in both organic farming and manufacturing—a leap of faith in a challenging business climate. What makes it more interesting is that his lovely wife, is a trained chocolatier.
NATURE’S WAY The first thing that strikes you about Averell and Hellen French of Mount Pleasant Chocolatiers is their warm humility, which belies their deeply intellectual characters. They are down to earth, unassuming, but more importantly passionate. They are deeply in love with each other, their adorable 3-year-old son Ariko, and their cocoa company. Hellen has a fascinating background working for non-governmental organizations (NGO’s) and her expertise is in social marketing as it relates to international fair trading practices—policies she would love to see applied here. She also had a brief spell working in hospitality in London and it was during this tenure that she was once again exposed to the world of chocolate, in particular, The slopes are not for the faint hearted and thank the luxury kind. goodness our trusty 4x4 vehicle can navigate the steep inclines leading to the cocoa farm. Whatever Hellen is no stranger to cocoa. Growing up in Uganda nerves felt, are immediately calmed by silence broken in eastern Africa, her father experimented a lot with cocoa and made chocolate using traditional practices, only by birds humming, friendly banter amongst a couple of farmers, and the gorgeous surrounding Blue as well as doing his own unique things with it. Africa, Mountains lined with copious amounts of bamboo. particularly West African nations Ghana and Cote D’Ivoire (Ivory Coast) produce most of the world’s The cocoa farm itself is on 26 acres of slopes. The trees cocoa for commercial chocolate making. However, are sectioned, young trees divided from mature trees. Uganda is now gaining prominence for its vanilla A cocoa tree takes 4 to 5 years to grow to its full height and cocoa. Like Jamaica, Ugandan cocoa is grown at and it can begin bearing fruit anywhere between 3 altitude and in a nation geographically close to the equator. Meeting Averell in London was a twist of fate; and 5 years. Averell explains that there were trees that were planted 40 to 50 years ago that are still producing a son of the Caribbean and a daughter of Africa, both cocoa lovers—it was a perfect partnership and a match fruit. He adds that Mount Pleasant and surrounding districts have grown cocoa for generations and made in chocolate heaven. farmers were supplied with free cocoa seedlings from the Ministry of Agriculture in the 1960’s to Averell is one of the growing numbers of British-born further boost the livelihood of the small farmers. Jamaicans returning and investing in the island. His Unfortunately things took a turn for the worse, cocoa father’s side of the family comes from the St. Andrew prices fell and farmers switched to the next best crop region of the Blue Mountains. In 2001, he began also growing in profusion in the area, coffee. the transition to Jamaica and would visit every 6 months to get the farm ready, going through all the necessary transactions, procedures and licenses to prepare for his dream of becoming a cocoa farmer like generations of his family before him. He also planned to take it further, by being a manufacturer of chocolate products. His family relocated a few years later and they are now fully settled into island life. When we arrive at the cool mountain location, just above Stony Hill, we are delighted by the cool breeze, a refreshing contrast to humid Kingston, and one can see why this small village is called Mount Pleasant. 15
NATURE’S WAY
Cocoa and coffee growing together complement one another, and it is not uncommon to see both crops being planted together. There has been a resurgence of cocoa farming as the prominence of Jamaican cocoa is once again stirring a healthy interest. Cocoa grown in the lowlands tastes slightly different to those grown in the highlands, the latter being superior. Like coffee, the Jamaican cocoa profile is unique and premium. Outside of being rare, it is fruity, creamy, less bitter and not too acidic. The French’s, amongst others, will be pushing for Blue Mountain cocoa to be designated with a single origin stamp of quality, much like local coffee and wine appellations across the world. To further guarantee its worth, Hellen shared that their future plans include grading chocolate by region, farm and location for traceability so when you unwrap that chocolate bar you know exactly where it comes from. They do not want to go into overly mass production, but keep the product exclusive to retain high value. The couple took us through the process of deriving chocolate from unprocessed cocoa pods and seeds, 16
while we sat amongst cocoa trees, sucking the flesh off the seeds from the delicious cocoa fruit, it’s taste reminiscent of sweet sop. First, the cocoa beans are extracted and fermented, afterwards they are sun dried, roasted and sorted. Then, the raw product is taken to their factory in the coastal town Bull Bay to be manufactured into various products. They employ 15 full time staff that process and label the final merchandise. Outside of the obvious bars, Mount Pleasant produces chocolate syrup and chocolate wine; the latter they described is similar to coffee liqueur and has to be specially ordered. They also create cocoa nibs, cocoa powder and cocoa butter. Hellen is very excited about the butter, the natural fat derived from cocoa and a major component of chocolate bars. Most of us are familiar with cocoa butter as a cosmetic to moisturize our skin. Likewise it is a base for lipsticks. She explained that the cosmetic industry hijacked this fat before the culinary world could capitalize on it. Now the culinary industry is
NATURE’S WAY
taking note and cocoa butter is touted to be the next best thing. Cocoa fat has a boiling and smoke point of 400˚F, most others cannot exceed 200˚F. The shelf life spans between 2 and 5 years, and a little goes a long way, making it economical. It has a slight chocolate flavour and is antioxidant rich, but is less pronounced than olive and coconut oil; its price point and health benefits are comparable to both oils. Nothing goes wasted from the cocoa fruit from shell to seed. Gardeners prize the cocoa shell for mulching and composting. When composites break down, it is rich and beautiful to look at, perfect as a natural fertilizer to complement organic vegetable farming. Socially conscious, Hellen and Averell work closely with the Jamaican cocoa board, are members of the Jamaica Organic Agriculture Movement (JOAM), and work closely with the farmers in their area, some of whom live on the farm as they provide housing on their land. They consider their workers family and work with other external farmers by providing cocoa out-grower
schemes. A project dear to the French’s, is working with schools and developing cocoa farming clubs where children will be able to adopt a tree and work with chocolate. Mount Pleasant Chocolatiers premium treats are now available in Kingston at Strawberry Hill, Uncorked, Carby’s, the Coconut Board and Liguanea Drug and Garden. Other locations will be on board soon. Flavours include plain, sea salt, chilli, cinnamon, fruit and nut with coconut, ginger mint, and black pepper marsala—a spicy nod to Hellen’s Ugandan roots. They are currently exploring and developing seasonal flavours such as jerk, and for customers who have issues with diary, they can custom make chocolate with a soy or coconut milk base and will cater to special requests. Mount Pleasant Chocolatiers is truly the epitome of best of local, demonstrating what we can achieve by supporting the Jamaican food product industry.
17
FOR STARTERS
UP ON
TOP Photos by Lance Brown
Tablescape created by Tai Flora at 689 By Brian Lumley
What does it take for a restaurant to be up on top? Claudette “CP” Powell takes to the foodie circuit and finds out. It’s refreshing to find that some of our local restaurants seem to understand that paying attention to the details will and can set your restaurant far apart from all the rest.
elegance and cosmopolitan flair, I immediately get a vibe. Each and every aspect of 689, right down to the restaurant name, has a story. The look of the place just sets the stage for an enticing dining experience and the fabulous food just elevates it to another level. Some restaurants although they have a great theme should be mindful because there are some decoration touches that can greatly affect the dining experience. For example take the Triple Century 333 Sports Bar and Restaurant in New Kingston.
When a person describes good restaurants, there are usually a few aspects that are common across the board—for example service, food quality, food presentation, ambiance, price. Come to think of it, the majority of restaurant reviews will grade restaurants individually on each of these factors. For some diners, only a few of these factors will matter, however for The design motif is very nice and pleasing to the others, the entire dining experience must be taken into eye with its mismatch set of dining chairs that consideration. aesthetically look good. Yet not all of the chairs work for me as a diner. There is a set that is very hard and Usually the restaurant atmosphere will be the becomes quite uncomfortable when you have to sit first thing that a diner notices. When I walk into a on them for a long period of time. My legs actually restaurant like 689 by Brian Lumley, with its unusual became numb, but because the sports bar was crowded, I couldn’t change to another more comfortable seat. It turned me off completely. 18
FOR STARTERS
The dynamic duo behind Tea Tree Crêperie, (from left) Maree Sigurdson and Carrie "Quizz" Sigurdson. Customer service is another issue where a restaurant needs to set a good standard through the choices they make when hiring staff. Even the best food will be overshadowed by poor or rude customer service. Nothing is better when you have a waiter who has a passion for his job. The first time I dined at the new Mediterranean restaurant, Beirut, inside Marketplace on Constant Spring Road, I came across a waiter, who I met when he worked at another establishment in town. He actually remembered me from the other restaurant and was so attentive. He even remembered that I like to have a beer before I dined. As a new diner, this heightens my experience and as a result, I keep going back. More importantly, I make sure I tell everyone I know about this wicked little restaurant that not only transports me to an exotic country with delicious food, but also makes sure I feel very much at home. While all of these factors are important, at the top of my list is the food quality. This is the primary ingredient to a top notch dining experience. If the
food is not good, no amount of customer service or restaurant atmosphere can make up for the shortcoming. When you come across a restaurant like Tea Tree Crêperie, which is pioneering a new concept in the Jamaican food experience, you get a nice dose of creativity with the décor and a big taste bud explosion with the distinctive menu. The food is simple with complex flavours. It’s clear that the owners took a great deal of care in determining what ends up on the menu and how the dishes are prepared. Consistency is the key and they never fail. All restaurants have their allure, but it’s those special few restaurants that have put serious thought into their establishments that will ultimately succeed. They have the desire to push themselves to new heights and take lead, and ultimately the diner’s dollars from their rivals.
FLY J STRIP 19
Photos and Recipes by Jessica Hylton
KITCHEN TALES
Fresh AL
FRESCO
Treat guests with these healthy and refreshing recipes.
Black Bean And Quinoa Burgers With Strawberry Bbq Sauce (Vegan + Gluten-free) These Vegan and Gluten Free Black Bean and Quinoa Burgers with Strawberry BBQ Sauce will transform the way you see veggie burgers…they are loaded with flavour, texture and are so filling! If you’re someone who doesn’t love veggie burgers, I’m about to change that for good. Prep Time: 20 minutes Cook Time: 10 minutes Total Time: 30 minutes Serves: 3 (you can easily double or triple this)
Ingredients 1 tbsp. olive oil ½ medium onion (½ cup), diced ⅓ cup red bell pepper, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ tsp. red pepper flakes 1 tsp. black pepper 2 tsps. sea salt 7 oz. can black beans, rinsed and drained 1 cup cooked quinoa (cook 1 cup of cooked quinoa to 2 cups vegetable broth for 15 minutes, then only use 1 cup) 2 tbsps. olive oil Roasted Strawberry Barbecue Sauce (visit theblog. jessikerbakes.com for the recipe!) This summer was quite different from most summers for me - I’m so used to grabbing a chicken burger at a barbeque and chowing down. Then I became a vegetarian. Worry not—you can still have your barbeque and with burgers that are even better! These Vegan and Gluten Free Black Bean and Quinoa Burgers with Strawberry BBQ Sauce will transform the way you see veggie burgers…they are loaded with flavour, texture and are so filling! If you’re someone who doesn’t love veggie burgers, I’m about to change that for good. Don’t ever end up feeling left out! Not only are these the ultimate protein vegan burgers and delicious, you could eat the strawberry bbq sauce with a spoon (I really did) and feel completely satisfied at the end. Happy burger eating! 22
Method • Heat the olive oil in a pan over medium high heat until hot, and sauté the red bell peppers, garlic and black pepper and ½ teaspoon sea salt until cooked down, about 3 minutes. Allow the vegetables to cool a bit. • In a food processor, add the black beans, cooked quinoa, sautéed vegetables, red pepper flakes and remaining salt. Pulse until combined, not too much to make it mushy but until incorporated. • On a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper, form the mixture into burgers (ensure to spray your hands with oil first - they are sticky!). They can make 3 large burgers or 6 smaller burgers. Refrigerate for about 10 minutes.
KITCHEN TALES • In a pan over medium high heat, heat about 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the burgers to it and cook about 3-4 minutes on each side, until crispy and cooked through. • Serve as you desire, in a burger form or in a lettuce wrap. We added burger buns, onions, tomato and lettuce and barbecue sauce. Enjoy!
Rosé Sangria This sweet and summery Rosé Sangria is a great and versatile summer drink for all your summer parties!
Rosé Sangria
Prep Time: 4 hours Cook Time: 2 minutes Total Time: 4 hours 2 minutes Serves: 6
Ingredients 2½ cups rose 2½ cups sweet sparkling wine ¼ cup water ¼ cup sugar ⅓ cup blueberry brandy/rum 1 ½ cups assorted fruits of pineapples, apples slices, grapes, and 2 limes sliced
Method • In a pot over high heat, stir the water and sugar until it comes to a boil. Boil together until they form a simple syrup for about 1 minute. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. • In a jug, mix the rose, sweet sparkling wine, brandy and fruits. Add the simple syrup and swirl to sweeten the sangria. • You can sneak in a sip now, but refrigerate for 4 hours to overnight for the flavours to meld together properly and be smoother.
For more information from Jessica Hylton, formerly known as Jessiker Bakes, check out her new blog, http://jessicainthekitchen, where she shares her journey of becoming a vegetarian, and finding her foodie voice, sharing some incredible (sweet and savoury) recipes along the way. @jessinkitchen on Twitter; @Jessicainthekitchen on Instagram, and jessicaskitchen on Pinterest. 23
by Leisha Wong
ROAD TRIP
In Search of
ZION
We went looking for great pizza, and found heaven.
Photos by Lance Brown We get lost on our way to Zionite Farms. We hear it’s easy to do and we find ourselves driving along a narrow, windy dirt track, where our 4-wheel drive struggles for traction. Lush greenery sprawled out on either side of us. Driving higher into the mountain, the air is immediately clearer, lighter, fresher. 24
ROAD TRIP
True to its name—Zion, meaning “heavenly place” and ites meaning a higher state of being—Zionites Farm truly feels like heaven. But when we arrive, there is no fanfare. Just a small, wooden, hand-painted sign, along with the stunning white smile of Chris Binns, assuring us that it was definitely worth the drive. And followed by the warm embrace of his wife Lisa, we already want to stay here forever.
areas. A giant blackboard keeps Lisa in check with all that week’s upcoming orders, and beyond the window, the hills of St. Ann stretch out as far as you can see.
And this is no joke. Step into the Binns’ modest home, and you know that man can live on bread alone—as long as he has some passion fruit butter to spread on it, or some herbed oil to dip it in. Set up in the hills of St. Ann, perched above the coastal town in Free Hill, Zionite Farms spreads over 15 acres of hillside. It is country living at it’s best, rustic and natural, and yet a subtle elegant sophistication defines the space in a way that only a woman like Lisa can accomplish. Luxury definitely resides in the simplicity. A modern day studio apartment, the Binns’ sleep where they eat, continuously surrounded by the aromas and abundance of their organic farm. Dug-up tree roots, form their bed, as well as a small table and stools. Local wood is represented in abundance, cedar, mango, guango, all repurposed from the farm, or surrounding 25
ROAD TRIP
Lisa and Chris represent the perfect unity. Much of what draws people to Zionite Farm, and their line of Stush in the Bush products—beyond the “love and affection” that goes into each jar—is the love and affection evident between this husband and wife team. They have been married for five years, and living at Zionite Farm, in this one-room home for about one year. “We live and we work together,” says Lisa, but stresses that their individual strengths (Lisa volunteers locally at Vista Prep School while Chris spends time on the farm) enable them their own private time also. But, it is a union that works, led by Chris’ foundation in ital farming, and Lisa’s gourmet taste buds that have led to the introduction of such vegetables and herbs as purple haricot verts, nasturtiums (edible flowers), baby arugula, tatsoi and watermelon radish. Such magical names. It is from the goodness of this magic that the Stush in the Bush line was born. “Food should be exciting, not boring,” shares Lisa. “At home we affectionately call that ‘sexy vegetarianism’. STUSH is all about that. The recipes are from all over—flipping through cookbooks, produce and fruit availability, flavours we love, and research. A lot of marrying of flavours goes on in our kitchen. We use no dried herbs unless we dry them ourselves so everything is fresh. And honestly that is what makes the difference.” 26
A Bajan by birth, but New Yorker at heart, Lisa was on vacation in Jamaica when she met Chris. And while their love story is one that involves the tragic passing of Lisa’s mother, it also led to their beautiful union.
ROAD TRIP
“They say when tragedy occurs you’re not to make any life changing decisions but we took a leap of faith,” says Lisa, and they decided to marry one month after they met. That was five years ago. And with a background in teaching, Lisa embraced her new life on the farm, transforming the modest one-bedroom space, into a stylish sanctuary. She was also inspired by the fruits and vegetables from the farm, albeit some that she wasn’t familiar with. “Inspiration really comes
from what we have available, what we are growing, and what flavours make food interesting,” she says. It is this inspiration that inspired their newest products, a naseberry spread, like apple butter, and a mint oil for vegetables and meats. Chris on the other hand was born and raised in Free Hill. His family owned the land and since 2000 he has been farming the land according to an ital philosophy. He joined the Jamaica Organic Agriculture Movement 27
ROAD TRIP
in 2001, however truly adopted its methods in recent years. Composting, companion planting, and contour farming are all methods that encourage preservation of the earth and sustainable farming, while preventing soil erosion. And while this may all be a departure from the politics he studied at university in Canada, he has the same ultimate objective. His desire was to get Jamaica back to an idealistic period when its people truly came together to make her stronger. “I decided to plant food instead,” Chris says. “Because this brings people together also. I wanted to show people that you could live without commercialism, prosper instead by living by our natural treasures. Many don’t understand
28
the idea that we can live respectfully of nature, and yet still be industrial.” It may be Lisa’s creativity and concepts behind the direction of Zionite Farms and Stush in the Bush, but it is Chris who transforms her ideas into reality. They are currently using all 15 acres of their farmland, either growing fruit or lumber trees, as well as contour farming (planting in raised beds) on approximately 50 percent of the land. Visitors to the farm get a tour of the land, and can see first hand the extensive variety of produce that is growing on the farm. Once you have worked up an appetite, a fabulous spread of predominantly
ROAD TRIP
vegetarian and vegan delights await. The menu is immense. You will want to eat everything listed—exotic salads, with edible flowers and balsamic roasted red onions, “massaged” with the delicate and aromatic vinaigrettes; their much-love grilled pizzas, made on a light vegan dough, smothered with homemade pesto and tomato sauce; all washed down with lemongrass iced tea or watermelon juice; and finished with a spicy chocolate vegan cake. So simple and yet so unlike any other culinary encounter you will experience on the island, and everything farm fresh from the land. You will not want to leave. You will want to sip lemongrass iced tea, from quaint ceramic cups that Lisa made under the watchful eye of famed JAmaican potter David Pinto, watching the sun set, and letting the cool breeze pass through your clear mind. What they have is a truly magical experience. It is one that speaks to Jamaica’s authentic culinary trail, and one that allows them to be honoured as trailblazers who are setting themselves apart on the local food scene. “It is food made with love, and that makes the biggest difference of all,” says Lisa. 29
KITCHEN CREW 101
TASTING TABLE
The Kingston Kitchen crew gave Chef Brian Lumley free reign to create the menu of his dreams, and here are the results.
Photos by Lance Brown Chef Brian Lumley has had a busy year. A judging stint at the Taste of the Caribbean earlier this summer, followed his copping of the Chef of the Year title last year; another successful staging of Budding Chefs, this summer; and manning his successful Kingston hotspot, 689 by Brian Lumley. But, the chef-who-doesn’t-sleep took some time to create his dream tasting menu for us as the first birthday of 689 by Brian Lumley approaches. Get ready to salivate!
•Menu • CRAB CAKE WITH SORREL BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE AND PASSION FRUIT MANGO COULIS GRILLED RACK OF LAMB WITH HERBED MUSHROOMS, AND JERK SHRIMP FRUIT TART WITH COFFEE PASTRY CREAM AND STRAWBERRY SAUCE 31
KITCHEN CREW 101
CRAB CAKE PAIRED WITH A MINI MIXED ORGANIC SALAD, SERVED WITH A SORREL BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE AND A PASSION FRUIT AND MANGO COULIS. “For this dish I used real crab meat and mixed it with escallions, garlic, spices, mayonnaise in order to give the crab cake moisture. I then formed them into patties, breaded them and deep fried them. The inspiration behind this dish came from our season. It is always hot in Jamaica, but in the summer it is on another level. I thought the salad, vinaigrette and refreshing coulis added a nice cooling effect in spite of the weather, as well as the spice associated with this dish. It is a playful and colourful mixture of greens, sauces and crispy textures that will have you craving more.”
32
KITCHEN CREW 101
GRILLED RACK OF LAMB WITH HERBED MUSHROOMS, AND PARSLEY ROASTED CHERRY TOMATOES, SERVED ON A BED OF WILD RICE PILAF ACCOMPANIED BY JERK SHRIMP AND FRIED BAMMY. “This dish has within it many components that are seasoned and flavoured individually. The lamb rack was marinated in a combination of Jamaican spices and seasonings along with red wine and Dijon mustard, while the shrimp were wild caught local shrimp marinated in jerk seasoning and olive oil. The pilaf was cooked in chicken stock, butter and garlic, and cooked for about an hour. The tomatoes and mushrooms were cooked separately in aromatic herbs, and the bammy was soaked in a salt, sugar, milk, water and cinnamon solution, before deep-frying to give it another dimension of flavour. The extra bones and fat
trimmings from the rack of lamb were used to make the sauce and balsamic vinegar was reduced to make a glaze. The thought behind this dish really stemmed from my days at the French embassy, combined with my love affair with Jamaican cuisine. I wanted to express a desire that seeks to satisfy the complicated yet discerning taste of the sophisticated foodie by strategically balancing the flavours of umami, savoury, sweet and tangy.�
For decor pictures from this photo shoot, and a word from the Tai Flora team that transformed the restaurant, visit us online at www.kingstonkitchenja.com 33
KITCHEN CREW 101 Strawberry Sauce 2 cups frozen strawberries 1 cup simple syrup 45g fresh mint 1 tear drop of rose water
FRUIT TART WITH COFFE PASTRY CREAM & STRAWBERRY SAUCE This dish screams Passion! It is definitely a dish for lovers, with its visual appeal and deep emphasis on power. It embodies everything that date night should be. Ingredients For the Filling 250 ml milk 3 egg yolks 3½ tbsps. granulated sugar ½ tbsp. Blue Mountain coffee powder 2 tbsp. all purpose flour 1 tsp. vanilla extract Strawberries, black berries, blueberries Short crust pastry 150g all purpose plain flour 2 tbsp. granulated sugar 90g unsalted butter 1 egg yolk 1 tbsp. iced water
34
Method • Sift the flour into a bowl and stir in the sugar. Using your fingertips, rub in the butter until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. • Make a well in the centre and add the egg yolk and iced water. Mix to a dough and roll into a ball. • Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and gather together into a ball. Press together gently until smooth, and then roll out to fit a 2-inch brioche mold. • Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 375F. • Line the brioche mold with the pastry and place another brioche mold on top then flip it on the opposite side. Prebake the pastry for 15 minutes, then remove the top mold and bake for another 10mins or until it is golden brown. Set aside to cool completely. • For the strawberry sauce, in a blender, add all the ingredients and pulse to a smooth puree. Transfer to a saucepan, and heat over medium heat. Bring to a boil for 2 minutes then cool immediately. • To make the filling, put the milk into a small saucepan with the coffee and bring to the boil. • Set aside while quickly whisking the egg yolks and sugar together in a bowl, until light and creamy. • Whisk in flour. • Pour the hot coffee/milk mixture slowly onto the egg mixture, whisking constantly. • Wash out the pan and return the milk mixture to the pan and bring to the boil over medium heat, stirring with a wire whisk. Boil for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. • Transfer to a bowl, stir in the vanilla extract, and leave to cool, stirring frequently to avoid a skin forming. When cooled to room temperature, cover the surface with plastic wrap & refrigerate until cold. • Cut the strawberries in half. Spoon the cold custard into the cold pastry shell, then arrange all the fruit over the custard, pressing in slightly. Serve the tart on the same day, cold. It refrigerates well but the fruits will not last too long.
By Leisha Wong
KITCHEN CONVERSATIONS
#Dreamwork Teamwork makes the dreamwork, so let’s meet the team behind the man.
Although his name is on the sign outside, Chef Brian Lumley is not the only talent behind the success at 689 by Brian Lumley. With a dedicated, passionate and young team (everyone is under 30) behind him, Chef Lumley is able to consistently deliver great service and good food. Introducing the 689 Team. (Back line) Sheldon Spencer - Senior Mixologist Jovain Wilson - Kitchen Assistant Sheldon Rattigan - Junior Sous Chef Lendave Burton- Sous Chef Llamar Clarke- Maitre’D (Front) Cardia Trought - Server Cory Faulknor - Commis chef Visit www.KingstonKitchenja.com to get the personal stories of this talented team, from discussing role models to their favourite thing on the menu at the restaurant. 35
By Natasha Levy
SIP N SAVOUR
THE HOUSE THAT JOHN BUILT
Ruth Chisholm inspecting the “legs”.
Alex Chin adds a dash of Island Gem Spring Water to open the flavours of the Scotch.
The Kingston Kitchen team launched their Sip ‘n’ Savour series by partnering with CPJ’s line of premium scotch, and scotch expert Natasha Levy for an elegant night of tasting and educating. Here are some of the highlights. “And now we are going to look at the scotch legs…” Did you know that Scotch has legs? And no, this isn’t the start of a joke. Looking at the scotch legs is part of any good tasting event. At the inaugural Sip ‘n’ Savour event, Kingston Kitchen partnered with CPJ to share the flavours and essences of The House of Aberfeldy… and we had some good legs to look at. The house of Aberfeldy has given us the world famous Dewar’s White label. However, you may not know the other expressions in its range. We were very pleased to have an opportunity to become more familiar with three expressions, a blend and two single malts — Dewar’s 12 year old, and the Single Malts Aberfeldy 12 year old and Aberfeldy 21 year old. 36
Before we talk about the tasting notes, just some points of clarification. Whisky vs Scotch? All Scotch is whisky that has been aged in Scotland in oak barrels for a minimum of three years. So where as you have whisky made in many countries worldwide, only when it meets the criteria above can it be called Scotch-whisky. Single Malt vs a blend? Well, whisky can be made from malted barley alone or a mixture of malted barley and other grains like corn. A Single Malt is whisky that comes from a single distillery (and is made with only malted barley). A blended whisky, on the other hand, is usually a mixture of grain and malt whiskies possibly from more than one distillery. With that context set, we can move on to the whiskies.
SIP N SAVOUR
Natasha Levy leads the group in an education into the world of Scotch.
Dylan Coke inspects the golden hue.
Photos by Lance Brown
The Aberfeldy distillery was built by the Dewar family in 1898 and is considered the physical and spiritual home of Dewar’s. It’s important to know this as Aberfeldy is also at the heart of all the Dewar’s expressions— from the very popular Dewar’s White Label, through the Dewar’s 12 year old and 18 year old, to the Dewar’s Signature. It was therefore only fitting that we taste and nose both the Aberfeldy single malts alongside the Dewar’s 12yr old. To really appreciate the flavours of Scotch, consider that you have to take in the aroma as well as the taste. First, we looked at the appearance of each, including the legs—after swirling the whisky gently around the glass, we observed how the beads of liquid or “legs” formed and ran down the sides of the glass. This is a good indication of the alcohol content. The colour of each was also noted (from very pale to old gold, and full amber). Next we took in the aroma followed by our first taste. This was done
(From left) Natasha Levy, Jacqui Sinclair, Imani Duncan-Price, Leisha Wong and Gina May Mair neat, or without the addition of any water to get a first impression of the flavour. Then we added just a wee bit of water to open up the flavours just a tad. A lively discussion ensued between the seasoned scotch drinkers and the scotch explores about their favourites. The tasting notes were wide and varied, but it was clear to all that the unifying hints of citrus and honey notes were clearly present in all three expressions. We really could taste the presence of Aberfeldy in the Dewars 12 year old. Not surprising, the well-rounded, smoother notes in the Aberfeldy 21 made is a crowd favourite. But, like art, drinking Scotch is subjective, so I invite you to try a wee dram of each and see which one is your favourite. All are available at the CPJ Market. Here are the official tasting notes from the distilleries. How do they compare to your notes? 37
But, like art, drinking Scotch is subjective, so I invite you to try a wee dram of each and see which one is your favourite. All are available at the CPJ Market. Here are the official tasting notes from the distilleries. How do they compare to your notes? Dewar’s 12-year-old special reserve Nose: A full fruity nose blending together raisins, orange peel and toffee apple with buttery fudge, caramel, vanilla pods and a hint of Scottish heather. Taste: A rich, fruity sweetness with good length and weight, giving way to a well-rounded, warm mouth feel, with just a hint of oak and fresh citrus Finish: A long, full flavoured, lingering finish
38
Aberfeldy 12-year-old Single Malt Nose: Rich, perfumed aroma rounded and full with heather, honey, notes of sweet pineapple, butter toffee, toast, cereal and vanilla Taste: Great depth, sweet golden syrup and honey followed by spices and orange peel Finish: Glorious, the perfume characteristics become more spicy, with a zesty hint of orange peel in a decidedly dry finish Aberfeldy 21-year-old single malt Nose: Richly textured, honeyed nose with sweet creamy intensity. Dried fruit, floral heather notes and hints of toasted coconut. Wood exerts its influence but doesn’t overwhelm. Taste: Both sweet and full with lashings of Scottish honey and an abundance of orange peel, immediately relaxing with notes of cream, vanilla and oak Finish: Long, spicy with a decidedly fry finish.
TASTING NOTES
By Leisha Wong
EAT ME These books are good enough to eat. Caribbean Potluck Suzanne & Michelle Rousseau Kyle Books When you sit down with Caribbean Potluck, the first publication for culinistas Suzanne and Michelle Rousseau, you will want to call up your closest friends for a laidback gathering of food-loving friends. The guest list may be easy. However, deciding on the menu, a whole different matter. Do you start with the creole lobster patties or the callaloo dip? Perhaps you keep things simple with the Island Caprese salad with Scotch Bonnet oil and chadon beni oil; or feature their island-wide famous smoked marlin and cream cheese sandwich with onion pickle—just like the days at Café Bella. Perhaps one of their fragrant and rich pastas will find its way onto the menu; or a Jamaican favourite with a twist—curried goat with white rum and fresh mango. And then, there is dessert. Chocolate coffee bread pudding, caramelized banana and coconut crème brûlée or lemon passion fruit squares. And the drama could continue on and on. Each dish so beautifully photographed that you are immediately inspired to get into the kitchen and recreate the magic. And so it is with the Rousseau sisters. Their bubbling personalities, welcoming nature, and their professionalism—they even share décor tips, secrets of a caterer, and a dozen easy recipes for last minute entertaining; you have to love them—are what draw people to their table. Of course, the incredible food will keep them there, a while, as will the family stories that they share in Caribbean Potluck. This is a story that honours the traditions of Caribbean cuisine, but also sets the tone for the future of it.
Belcour Cookbook Robin Lim Lumsden Belcour Preserves Ltd. It took many years for Robin Lim Lumsden to complete her cookbook. It’s pages are a love story to the family that shaped the food-loving artisan that she is today. It is, in fact, an homage to the Caribbean culinary tradition, telling the story of her family through their cherished family recipes. Honouring a time when recipes were handwritten, Lumsden’s book tells the story of a family brought together by a love of food. It offers an intimate look at the Lim’s history, and how their diverse background influenced their cooking (hence the French and Chinese dishes). Lumsden also tells the story of Belcour preserves, how these were born, and recipes for their diverse range of all-natural products. Whether it was brunch, a formal lunch, or a family-style dinner, Belcour products can always have a place at the table. Sentimental touches, such as images of the handwritten recipes featuring family favourites— everything from fried rice and curry fish, to shrimp in beer batter and cream corn fritters—feature alongside old family photos. Together, these tell the story of how these two families came together, bringing with them different flavours, stories, peoples and history…much like the fabric that makes up Jamaica. Purchase online at www.belcourpreserves.com
Purchase online at www.2sistersandameal.com 39
FOODIE NEWS
By Leisha Wong
Take me Home
Kingston Kitchen recipe cards are a gift from the Kingston Kitchen team to all home cooks, meant to inspire good, local and healthy eating. It is a complimentary monthly service exclusively available within the Progressive Grocers of Jamaica supermarket chain, island wide.
Chipotle Marinated Tofu, Corn and Spiced Mixed Squash Tacos
Cream Cheese Pancakes with Warm Strawberry Preserves
MEATLESS MONDAY
BRUNCH & SWEET TREATS
Sage-Rubbed Pork Chops with Chimmichurri Sauce
Pineapple and Rum Glazed Tea Loaves
DINNER PARTY
BRUNCH & SWEET TREATS
The recipes fall under 7 main categories and run the gamut from budget conscious to fancy ingredients, vegetarian, and family meals — to suit all customer wallets. Our recipes are inspired by global taste buds, and created with what is available locally and on the shelves of Progressive stores. They provide nutrition tips, accompaniment ideas and beverage pairing suggestions. You can check out all the recipe cards online at www.kingstonkitchenja.com.
Happy Cooking! 40
RAINFOREST