WALKABOUT THROUGH THE CENTRE Our correspondent JC takes us through the red centre by rubber and by foot. WORDS & PICS BY JAMES CAREY “AS I WALKED THROUGH THAT COUNTRY, I WAS BECOMING INVOLVED WITH IT IN A MOST INTENSE AND YET NOT FULLY CONSCIOUS WAY. THE MOTIONS AND PATTERNS AND CONNECTIONS OF THINGS BECAME APPARENT ON A GUT LEVEL. I DIDN’T JUST SEE THE ANIMAL TRACKS, I KNEW THEM”.
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- ROBYN DAVIDSON, TRACKS
n 1977, Robyn Davidson left Alice Springs and trekked 1,700 miles across the Australian outback with four camels and a dog. Her epic journey was recorded by Rick Smolan for National Geographic and later became a book and then a film. While our journey leaving Alice Springs was going to be in the comfort of a 4WD we knew that the only way to truly touch the wonders of the West MacDonnell Ranges, Palm Valley, Kings Canyon, Uluru and Kata Tjuta was by foot. Leaving Alice Springs, our first stop is the West MacDonnell Ranges, which stretch westward into the desert. This linear range has been squashed, deformed, lifted, folded and eroded over the eons, creating layered red peaks. But it is what lies between these peaks that is most extraordinary. It is here where we spend the next five days walking amongst the gorges and chasms, the oases in the outback.
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The ranges are not a place where you will find long remote 4WD tracks, with most sites easily accessible, even in the family Commodore. But it only takes a short walk among the yawning crevasses to experience the seclusion. Hiking, trekking, rambling – whatever term you use – the experience of leaving the confines of the metal box and returning to a simpler form of transport allows you to connect more closely with the earth. It doesn’t take long after leaving Alice for us to arrive at Simpson Gap. The Gap is said to have been created by a wallaby spinning around and slamming its tail on the ground, creating the split in the rocks. It’s hard to imagine what the black footed rock wallaby makes of the
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flat-footed intruder as he peers down at us from the ledge. Standley Chasm is one of the most photographed of the gorges. A short walk following the Angkerle Creek bed leads you to sheer walls closing in on both sides no wider than your outstretched hands. The shadows of the floor are broken only by a brief shaft of light in the middle of the day (along with the tourists’ relentless camera flashes). Next along the range is Ellery Creek. As we approach, the shrill of tourists swimming in the near freezing waterhole echoes off the rock face. While this has its own majestic ambiance, the longing for a quieter place sees us head on to Serpentine Gorge, often overlooked by
the passing traveller. We follow the dry river bed winding next to the twisted ghost gums, their white smooth trunks like candy stripes against the red gorge walls. But there is more to this place than the dark crevasses. The steep climb to conquer the Lookout Walk is well worth the effort once you gaze out upon the expansive landscape below, and witness the blue sky meld with the ochre red range. While we could have explored further, camp was calling at Ormiston Gorge. While attempting the 223km Larapinta Trail (that follows the backbone of the West MacDonnell Range) is on my wish list, today’s walk will be the more achievable
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Previous spread: Two of the our most recognisable red-rock attractions also happen to be our most sacred. Far left: Cliff faces scored by eons of rainwater erosion on the Peterman Range. Left: Family, by foot. Above: Cloud art imitates life.
10km Pound Walk. Leaving camp early, the first thing we notice is a sign at the beginning that warns, “high water level in gorge – possibility of having to swim to complete circuit.” Despite this dire omen, we follow the well-marked path that slowly ascended the ridge, the sounds of camp disappearing into the wind. As we reach the top of the saddle the spectacular pound encompasses the full horizon, the ridgeline circling out before us. It is moments like this when you realise a 4WD can only take you on part of the journey. From here we drop down into the pound and snake our way through a patchwork of red, green, yellow – rocks, grass, wildflowers. The range is known to the local
Arrernte people as ‘Yeperenye’ or caterpillar, and following this winding track, the name seems apt. Jumping from rock to rock over the broad creek bed of the Osmington Creek, we began to question the sign we had seen earlier. After a further hour of rock scrambling, the trail begins to enter the narrow gorge, the sides transforming into towering sheer walls, with the water getting progressively deeper. The last 10 minutes of the hike was about to leave an indelible memory. Not because of the magnificent scenery. No. We were about to strip down to our underwear and wade through neck-deep water that had been chilled to freezing point having passed through the deep
ancient caverns. The next day we head further west. The further west you travel the less crowded it gets, the day tours finally getting out of reach. Reaching Redbank Gorge we are finally able to experience the solitude of the waterhole, and watch the knowing dragonflies skim the surface. Leaving the West Mac Ranges, the road leads to Tylers Pass where we are greeted with a ring of weathered hills rising 180 metres above the desert. Science and dreamtime stories come together with both telling the story of the creation of the circular rock walls due to an object falling from the sky. Reaching Gosse Bluff, we don the walking shoes
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again and explore the base of the crater. Departing the bluff, the road finally reverts to the red dust we are used to as we make our way to Finke Gorge National Park. Not far from the turn off, Hermannsburg appears as a juxtaposition to the remote landscape. The site, established by German missionaries, is much like it was in the 1800s, with the white- washed stone buildings sheltering from the heat under the date palms. Just out of Hermannsburg we stop at an unimposing cottage where the famous artist Albert Namatjira lived. De-
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spite my best efforts to capture a photo of the MacDonnall Ranges, they do not compare to his richly detailed paintings of majestic ghost gums brought to life on his canvases. Taking the turn off to Palm Valley we are greeted with a sign, “Severe 4WD Route – Allow Three Hours”. While the track in is not as bad as the sign makes out (I assume it’s to keep the backpackers out with their hire cars) it is still an interesting drive through sand drifts and rocky river beds. Setting up camp is a welcome change to the more
bustling sites experienced amongst the Mac Ranges. The next morning we take the short drive to Palm Valley. Leaving the car, it is time to again ‘go walkabout’. While a ‘walkabout’ is a young boys right of passage to honour their ancestors and reflect on life, we have our own chance to reflect on the majesty of this ancient landscape. Walking through the rare red cabbage palms, relics of the ancient rainforest that once occupied this land, we muse upon the fact that this unique species has become a time capsule to a
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Top left: A location one can easily imagine Namatjira painting from. Top: Camp #973 of the Darwin to Dirt epic. Right: It’s hard not to have a smile on your face when surrounded by palm trees, anywhere in the world. Above: The Rim Walk track will leave your breathless for a number of reasons.
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forgotten era. Leaving camp, we join the Mereenie Loop that links to Kings Canyon and Uluru. This wide red corrugated road is like many outback tracks with the level of difficulty determined by the last time it was graded and how much rain they have had. Occasionally we come across a reminder of the region’s relative popularity, with a road sign reading, “Achtung. Slow down. Drive on the left”. It will be a sad day when this road is fully sealed. While the home comforts of Kings Canyon Resort may appeal to some, further on is Kings Creek Station. This
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working cattle and camel property has excellent campsites nestled in the shade of desert oaks. While there is enough to keep you occupied here for days from quad bikes to camel rides, the real reason to visit is Watarrka National Park, also known as Kings Canyon. Again the only way to experience this natural phenomenon is to walk. The 6km Rim Walk is spectacular, and it is not only the 500 stairs at the beginning that will leave you breathless. The sandstone chasm disappears some 270m to the canyon floor, the walls appearing to have been sliced by a giant’s knife. There is one more stop that pulls all visitors to its centre like a vortex. It does
not matter if you are an overseas tourist, a local or a traditional owner of this land, Uluru has the power to change you well beyond just its physical presence. Standing looking at this huge monolith, you are staring at the soul of Australia. There is no doubt that travelling to Uluru could be seen like visiting a theme park with its controlled opening times and restricted areas. As we follow the other 500,000 people a year that have watched the sun set, the initial popularity is soon forgotten. As the sun sets, the symphony of colour on the rock begins to change, mother nature becoming an artist as though dipping the brush in a rainbow.
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Above: Transformative in colour throughout the day and a transformative vision to all who behold. Far left & Left: Easy comparisons can be made to Jordan’s ‘Lost City of Petra’. Except, unlike the Middle East, these stunning and sheer cliffs have been shaped only by nature and the legends of the dreamtime.
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FAST FACTS
Our final walk on this part of the journey involves a decision – to climb or not to climb? Many who come here feel that it is their right to climb. Others respect the traditional owners who ask us to refrain. My decision was more driven by a desire to come see the different faces of the rock. From a distance Uluru appears like a vertical wall erupting from the flat expanse. But taking the 9.4km walk around the base you can fully appreciate the millennium of erosion causing ridges and valleys stained black from the rare rain events, the flaking stone like layers of an onion, the mystical caves, the hidden waterholes, and the ancient paintings. Partway around you come to an area with signs saying “Photographs not permitted”. I can understand why this part of the rock is considered to be so special with its large overhangs radiating a power and presence. While I slip the camera in to its bag, as a landscape photographer
I feel I want to have the same connection to this place and to capture and share it, like Albert Namajera in his paintings or the aboriginal stories that are passed on to future generations. Edvard Munch, the expressionist painter once said, “Nature is not only all that is visible to the eye…it also includes the inner pictures of the soul.” Photographing the wonders of Kata Tjuta or the changing light of Uluru is about reaffirming our connection with this place. It’s about communion and communication with the land. And there is no better way to do this than to immerse yourself in the outback and go walkabout.
Above: Central Australian chow time for both homo sapiens and canis lupis dingo Left: The fondest road memories are when you get out from behind the windscreen and inhale.
THE MACDONNELL RANGES stretch for approximately 644km east and west of Alice Springs and are central Australia’s most extensive mountain range. The West Macdonnell National Park was established in the 1980s to protect the western portion of the mountain range. PALM VALLEY is located 123km southwest of Alice Springs, within the Finke Gorge National Park. Palm Valley is situated within the Krichauff Range and is known as the only location in central Australia where cabbage palms survive. Access to Palm Valley is via a 4WD accessible track from the town of Hermannsburg which follows the usually dry riverbed of the Finke River. FINKE GORGE NATIONAL PARK is located 138km west of Alice Springs and is accessed via Larapinta Drive. Access to the park is via 4WD only. The park is accessible all year, except for when the Finke River is in flood. The most popular time to visit is during the cooler months between April and September. KINGS CREEK STATION is a working cattle and camel station which is located 435km southwest of Alice Springs and 36km from Kings Canyon. The station has camping and accommodation. Unpowered sites are available for $20 per adult per night, or $44 per family per night. For bookings of more information, please visit the station’s website www.kingscreekstation.com.au. KINGS CANYON is located on the western edge of the Northern Territory’s George Gill Range and is 323km southwest of Alice Springs and 1316km south of Darwin. The canyon is protected by the Watarrka National Park, and part of the gorge is a sacred Aboriginal site, so visitors are discouraged from leaving the marked walking trails. ULURU is positioned 335km southwest of Alice Springs and is situated within the Kata Tjuta National Park. Uluru is a sacred site to the Anangu Aboriginal people and is protected as a UNESCO world heritage site. KATA TJUTA NATIONAL PARK covers 1326 square kilometres and is located 1431km south of Darwin and 440km southwest of Alice Springs. The park is accessed via the Stuart and Lasseter Highways and protects Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Kata Tjuta is also known as Mount Olga and is located 25km west of Uluru.
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