CROATIA Variations on the Theme of Paradise

VARIATIONS ON THE THEME OF PARADISE

The clear, warm waters of the Adriatic coast; an epic variety of natural landscapes; a rich cultural history that dates back to the cradle of civilization; and a wonderfully unhurried lifestyle: Croatia has it all. Best of all, this beautiful and unspoiled country still feels relatively undiscovered.

Text Jonathan Bousfield – Photos SofijaSilvia

Pine-scented views towards the crystal-clear Adriatic coast, as seen from the estate of Villa Korta Katarina.

LEŠIĆ DIMITRI PALACE, Korčula, Croatia

Above: A relaxing courtyard at the Lešić Dimitri Palace: modern furnishings juxtapose against ancient natural materials. Left: Bougainvillea in bloom: fragrant flowers create an ever-colorful and changing background. Far left: Town of mellow stone–a lifestyle in balance with nature. BATHED BY THE CRYSTAL WATERS OF THE ADRIATIC, Croatia’s Dalmatian coast offers both solitude and sociability, and an awesome sense of nature’s power to rejuvenate and inspire. With lush subtropical vegetation giving way to stark limestone wilderness, and with beaches that range from intimate pebbly coves to parasol-covered shores, Dalmatia’s natural beauty is never static. Shifting light turns the sea from blue to green to turquoise. Whispering breezes awaken scents of carob, wild fennel, rosemary and thyme. Pastel greens of olive bushes alternate with the deeper hues of vineyards, cypresses and pines. Wall-hugging cacti sprout vivacious flowers, only to wither and fall after a day or two’s bloom. Yet the seductive appeal of Dalmatia does not just rest solely on its natural beauty. It is also a region of rich cultural heritage, its history shaped by Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Venetians, as well as the Slav tribes who subsequently coalesced into the Croatian nation.

Spread along Dalmatia’s shores are towns and villages of mellow stone, their gardens sprouting purple spears of bougainvillea, blushing pink oleanders and shimmying palms. Hillsides are streaked with dry-stone walls, the products of centuries of back-breaking toil, when local farmers cleared rocks from the barren scrub to create life-sustaining patches of sheep pasture, olive grove or vineyard. It is often on the islands and peninsulas that Dalmatia’s famously recuperative powers are at their most concentrated: it is here the sea is at its clearest, the serenade of crickets at its strongest, the scent of wild herbs at its most intoxicating, and the pace of life at its most measured. Central to the Dalmatian lifestyle is the idea that life’s pleasures are not to be hurried: from the first coffee of the morning to that final, soul-soothing glass of prošek dessert wine in the evening, the good things in life should be savored, never rushed. Embracing contemporary comforts while showing deep respect for Dalmatian tradition is the Lešić Dimitri Palace in Korčula, the ancient walled town that occupies the eastern tip of the island of the same name. A seventeenth-century aristocratic seat right in the heart of town, this venerable stone building has been artfully transformed into one of Croatia’s leading boutique hotels. Its interiors exude a spirit of globe-trotting adventure, with luxuriant fabrics and furnishings evoking the textures and colors of Venice, Southern Asia and the Far East–as befits a town that was once the home of Marco Polo. Despite the provision of state-of-the-art bathrooms and kitchenettes, the hotel has remained faithful to its heritage, retaining its exposed stonework, odd-shaped nooks and low-ceilinged passageways.

MASLINA RESORT, Hvar, Croatia

The hotel lies right on one of Korčula’s stepped medieval alleys: a haven of repose set in the midst of a vibrant and historic community. With its castellated turrets and flamboyant cathedral, Korčula is indeed an outstanding museum piece, but it is also full of the contrasts of contemporary life. This is a town where street cats bask outside chic fashion boutiques, children sell seashells on Renaissance piazzas, and local choirs give impromptu performances of traditional, a cappella songs. Further proof of the enduring balance between tradition and innovation comes in the shape of Lešić Dimitri’s restaurant, LD, where the fresh catch hauled in by fishermen from the nearby island of Korčula is transformed with mercurial skill into a unique Adriatic culinary experience. LD’s creations are at their enchanting best when paired with Korčula’s wines: Pošip, the refreshing aromatic white from the inland village of Čara; or Grk, a varietal which only thrives in the sandy-soiled village of Lumbarda and was first cultivated by the ancient Greeks. Offering a bold architectural statement, one that also blends seamlessly into the local landscape, is a luxury hotel on the island of Hvar. Maslina Resort seeks to be at one with its surroundings. An unapologetically geometric piece of modern design, its outer cladding of wooden slats echoes the slender tree-trunks of the surrounding woodland. While a name already well known to Mediterranean travelers, Hvar remains surprisingly wild, a grey-green ridge of an island with tufts of fragrant lavender lending a purple hue to its stony upper slopes. Swathed in pines and tamarisks, the resort and its cluster of rooms, suites, and villas sit above Maslina Bay, a sheltered spot where locals come to swim, stroll or cycle. With an interior that features local limestone, wood and terracotta floor tiles, there’s an earthiness about the design that keys directly into the elemental beauty of the island landscape. It’s the perfect place to unwind and recharge: spa and fitness facilities emerge from behind intimate walled gardens, and a beach of silky sand lies a mere five minutes along the coastal path. Commitment to the environment is a crucial plank of the resort’s philosophy, and sustainability is more than just a fashionable phrase. Maslina is plastic free, and committed to recycling. Food is seasonal and locally sourced: the resort’s head chef can frequently be seen emerging from Maslina’s organic garden clutching an armful of fresh herbs and vegetables. The hotel is an active player in the Croatian community: local creatives were engaged in designing furnishings and staff uniforms, and local sports teams in nearby Stari Grad were provided with sponsorship.

Top: Massimo Cvek picks herbs at Maslina Resort’s organic garden. Above: Sleepy villages nestled in countryside or amid vineyards are a typical part of Hvar’s island landscape. Right: Mindfulness and relaxation in natural surroundings: a core part of the attraction of Maslina Resort.

VILLA KORTA KATARINA & WINERY, Orebić, Croatia

While offering a soothing air of self-contained seclusion, the resort is within easy distance of Stari Grad, especially if you glide along the coastal path on one of its innovative wooden-framed bicycles. Founded by the ancient Greeks in the 4th century BC, Stari Grad is a town that welcomes visitors but retains its own timeless rhythms, its warren of ancient alleys opening out suddenly into vibrant piazzas filled with potted plants and playing children. The eternal Mediterranean, with its symbiosis of human civilization and natural order, is here in all its power.

Many of the most compelling destinations start out as a personal dream, and Villa Korta Katarina is a prime example. Americans Lee and Penny Anderson discovered southern Dalmatia’s rugged, heart-stopping Pelješac peninsula after taking part in humanitarian missions in nearby Bosnia-Herzegovina. Falling in love with the area, and inspired by its reputation as the source of Croatia’s most highly prized wines, they purchased a stunning art-deco former hotel, and decided to transform it into a winery and luxury residence. It’s an extraordinarily handsome building, rising majestically above the sea. Inside, everything communicates comfort and refinement, the Andersons’ passion for hospitality expressed through discreet but attentive service, rich textiles, and the kind of chairs and sofas that invite deep and thorough relaxation. It’s in the owners’ keenly felt enthusiasm for wine that Korta Katarina’s relationship with the Dalmatian landscape is truly expressed. Cloaked in vineyards, and sitting atop a barrel-filled cellar that has become a laboratory of oenological excellence, the villa has quickly become one of the most prestigious wineries in the country. Key to Pelješac’s wine-producing potential is Plavac mali, the endemic grape variety cultivated tenaciously on the steep slopes of Pelješac’s southern shore. It is the combination of dry stony soil, intense sunshine and salty sea air that produces fruit uniquely rich in flavor. The sweat and toil of the local harvesters, who require agility and stamina to pick their way along the precipitous upper slopes, are additional ingredients in this famously luxuriant, velvety red. Korta Katarina has also enjoyed great success with its dry white Pošip, made from grapes grown on Korčula, and a charming rosé deftly crafted from local reds and whites. Stretching west of Villa Korta Katarina are the glorious sand-and-shingle beaches of Orebić, an underexploited riviera that exudes an easygoing, relaxed charm. Orebić itself is celebrated for the palatial villas built by nineteenth-century ship captains, their walled gardens bursting with oleanders, cacti and palms–a place of calm and meditation that epitomizes the understated luxury of the Dalmatian south.

SOFIJASILVIA Photographer “I was born in Pula, in the north of Croatia–and still live there. Driving south gave me the opportunity to rediscover the diversity of the Croatian coast. I was moved by its heritage and richly preserved biodiversity, and was inspired to record it and contribute to its preservation.”

Your seven-night itinerary in Croatia

Top left: Terraced gardens at Villa Korta Katarina. Above: With a soothing palette of pale blue, grey, white and cream, Villa Korta Katarina’s rooms and suites décor is a reflection of the fascinating Pelješac Peninsula. Left: The stunning pool terrace at Villa Korta Katarina.