spa therapies

Rewind a few years, and skincare trends were basically made-up names for the same end result. There was glass skin, dolphin skin, glazed skin-all of which essentially mean the same thing: A healthy, well-balanced, even-toned complexion. But in 2023, consumers are smarter, better educated on the basics, and demanding more from skincare products, treatments, and so-called “trends” across the aesthetics space. As such, brands and professionals have followed suit. Products have to be multitasking at a minimum and in-office treatments are taking a 360, holistic approach that factor in mental state, metabolism, and diet.

Buccal Fat Removal

The most talked about trend but proceed with an abundance of caution when it comes to buccal fat removal-the results are permanent, and, according to a few experts, don't age too well. “Buccal fat removal is a surgical procedure that removes the naturally-occuring fat between the cheekbones and jaw bones of the face, with the goal of accentuating one's cheekbones and facial structure, and minimizing an appearance of roundness or fullness,” says Dr. Dendy Engelman.

The caveat? Reducing fat in this area is permanent, but as we age, we naturally lose fat in our face and our faces become smaller. Removing your buccal fat pad is irreversible and although it makes your jawline look slimmer now, it does not age well.

Skin Cycling

If you're on BeautyTok, you've heard of skin cycling, a term coined by dermatologist Dr. Whitney Bowe. It's not a new product or in-office treatment, but rather a recipe that tells you when to apply your products. “It's a skincare approach that involves applying products intermittently in a four-day cycle, leaving out some products on 'rest days,'” says Dr. Engelman. “Skin cycling encourages people to apply products strategically instead of piling them on top of each other, and is designed to yield significant results while preventing irritated skin by giving the skin time to recover from more active ingredients and exfoliants.” It's ideal for those who run on the sensitive side or those who can't seem to get in a rhythm with their regiment.

Psychodermatology

Stress impacts skin health. Now, brands are finally getting on board with that logic. “I have noticed an increased interest in the skin to mind relationship, otherwise called psychodermatology,” notes Dr. Engelman. “This looks at how our mental health can directly affect our skin. Psychodermatology is emerging in the way we understand the relationship between mind and skin, and also being incorporated into skincare brands product lines.” A number of companies are using active ingredients like caffeine to fight the effects of stress on the skin.

Multi-Tasking Products

There was a period of time where single ingredient products were taking over. “We saw products with niacinamide, peptides, or ceramides in the name, as it was the key ingredient, or sometimes only ingredient, in the formula. It was beneficial for ingredient education; understanding the purpose of ingredients and what they do for your skin,” says Dr. Idriss. “However, overtime our skincare routines became a million steps long as we were trying to include every ingredient possible to target our main skin concerns.” Now, those these products are taking a backseat in favor of multi-tasking, multi-ingredient blends that address a multitude of skin issues in a streamlined fashion.

Three-Dimensional Filler

Once upon a time, a doctor would take a syringe of Juvederm and use it to plump up any area that needed a little extra love. But the industry has come a long way and doctors are now taking a 360, personalized approach on the filler front, which is in large part thanks to innovation in the space. “These fillers are often unique and used for specific areas of the face, for example tear troughs and jawline. It's about customization, rather than using a multipurpose syringe for all areas of the face.” Every filler has specific properties, such as viscosity and durability, that make them appropriate, or not appropriate, for certain areas of the skin.

Quick Contouring

Face and body contouring procedures aren't new per se, but there are new technologies in the space that prioritize speed and downtime. “Surgical treatments are as popular as ever and combined with new plasma technology, we are able to achieve even better results with liposuction and body contouring,” says Dr. Shafer. For example, there's a new plasma innovation called Renuvion that you're going to be hearing more and more about. “It's a new energy based treatment that can be applied externally or more commonly internally during a liposuction procedure to enhance skin tightness. This is good for patients who are not quite ready for a full on facelift, but want to push the envelope in terms of skin tightening technology.”

Combination Therapy Treatments

“Combining technologies and aesthetic modalities in a single treatment is something I've always believed in,” says Ormonde. “I currently combine radiofrequency with microcurrent and LED light therapy to address skin tightening, muscle tone, and collagen stimulation in a single treatment.” The multitool approach lends itself to more dramatic results. “Clients leave looking more lifted and sculpted and the results improve over the course of a few weeks.”

Holistic Approaches

Skincare is no longer just about the physical skincare. Doctors and companies are looking at the whole picture and taking an inside-out approach. For Dr. Shafer and his team, that means looking at a patient's metabolic function with a fine tooth comb. “The importance of metabolism cannot be overstated. The metabolic approach to anti aging and rejuvenation is the hottest topic of the year. Patients need a consultation, blood work, and body analysis and then a customized treatment focused on antiaging, weight loss, or overall wellbeing,” he explains. While this will look different for everyone, maximizing metabolic function can have an impact on hair growth, skin plumpness, and overall health.

In a similar vein, you can also expect to see a spike in supplements. “An effective skincare routine that addresses your specific needs is essential, but the addition of skin-specific oral supplements can amplify the results,” says Ormonde, who has a background in integrated nutrition. “I am always recommending a wellness approach to skincare by supplying skin with beneficial vitamins and nutrients from within.”

Mesotherapy

According to Dr. Houshmand, we'll see a rise in Mesotherapy, which is already being widely used. So, what is Mesotherapy, exactly? “It's a technique used to rejuvenate the skin by means of a transdermal injection of a multivitamin solution and natural plant extracts that are thought to improve the signs of skin aging,” she explains. Mesotherapy is extremely customizable.“There are many different actives injected depending on what issue is being treated, so it can be used for fat reduction, pigment, wrinkles, or pore size. It's very specific to the goal.”

Hair Health

There is a massive hike in products and brands focusing and restoring hair growth. People don't want to start and stop their hair restoration at home, they're going the extra mile. “More and more of my patients are coming in for early interventions for hair thinning, hair loss, and overall hair growth,” says Dr. Houshmand. “Both men and women want to prevent their own hair loss and optimize growth.”

In addition to topicals like Minoxidil and Rogaine, people can get PRP (platelet rich plasma) injections or AnteAGE hair restoration, which is comparable to a super-charged version of PRP that leverages growth factors. There are also trials underway for Exosomes. “These are different from PRP and different from stem cells,” says Dr. Houshmand. “Exosomes are nanoparticles that have protein, DNA, and RNA from the originating cells and have a powerful role in regenerative medicine by facilitating healing and repair processes. When applied or injected to patients experiencing early signs of alopecia and hair loss, exosomes can stimulate the hair follicles, prevent further hair loss and stimulate hair regrowth as long as the hair follicle is present.”

Softer Looking Lips

“The very large lip look without definition is gone. Patients have been dissolving their filler to start with a clean slate and want more definition, not necessarily volume,” says Dr. Houshmand. “Lip flips are quite popular as are lighter fillers with properties that give the lip a very hydrated look. 2023 in general is the year of enhancing natural features and lips are part of this aesthetic.”

Barrier Strength

This isn't necessarily a trend-it's more like a grand awakening that's here to stay. “The age of overexfoliation is finally over and the pendulum has swung. People are becoming aware of the importance of maintaining your skin barrier,” points out Dr. Idriss. A healthy skin barrier is the goal for every skin type, but especially dehydrated and dry skin.” This doesn't mean discontinuation of your exfoliators. Just a more intent focus on hydration.