Levoni Il Secolo
ANNO
1 0 0
I
NUMERO
ZERO
LEVON I
I
20 11
AN NO
10 0
2 0 1 1
NU ME R O
ZE RO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
L E V O N I 2 0 1 1 A N N O
1 0 0
I
N UME R O
Z E R O
Levoni Il Secolo
ANNO
1 0 0
I
NUMERO
ZERO
LEVON I
I
20 11
AN NO
10 0
2 0 1 1
NU ME R O
ZE RO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
L E V O N I 2 0 1 1 A N N O
1 0 0
I
N UME R O
Z E R O
EDITORIAL
ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF HISTORY, ONE SOURCE OF PRIDE
I
n the beginning was salami. Levoni’s hundred-year journey
affection for the company off the premises.
begins with a Hungarian one: a round, even slice, with a fine
Others are no longer with us, but they have
texture, that gently rocks to and fro on a chopping board. A soft
left their own clear, precise mark on the way, teaching those who
flavour, intensified by smoking, slightly sweet. A cornucopia for
worked with them and who would follow them the real way to do
the senses, and a gold medal winner that won over the most de-
things well. The passion everyone feels is natural. Slice after slice,
manding of palates and the hard-to-please English judges.
mouthful after mouthful, you find yourself wanting to try another
We are back in 1913, when this speciality was presented for the
slice, and realise that where this slice comes from must be inter-
first time at the London International Exhibition by a young
preted and understood. Its roundness, textures, flavours, subtle-
Ezechiello Levoni, the founding father of the four generations that
ties; a profuse range of the most appealing nuances. This same
would make the company successful as time went by.
assortment of more than two hundred types of cured meats that
The motivation and mutual ambition that fathers, sons and
currently makes its way round most of the world, winning the ap-
grandsons have always had to make Levoni cured meats a success
proval of all it meets, with all its shapes, textures and new flavours
is still the common denominator in this ever larger family today: a
that are always mindful of tradition, is just one of the treasures
family that includes the skilled and precise work of the butchers
Levoni offers its customers, who are increasingly demanding and
who remove the bone, the experts in charge of curing, smoking
who are ever closer and more loyal to the brand with the winged
or spicing the meat, and the inspectors who examine the casings,
piglet. And he can fly – in spite of those who didn’t believe that
who day in day out offer their commitment and dedication to the
Ezechiello’s Hungarian salami could win, a salami that heightens
company that is now celebrating its hundredth anniversary.
the senses of those who have been tasting mouthful after mouthful
Many of them have been a part of the history of that slice of
for a hundred years. A hundred is a round, full number that stands
salami for their whole lives, thereby becoming part of the tradi-
for an objective and target that have been reached. It doesn’t really
tion of Castellucchio: they are people who have made their own
seem that the clock has gone round so fast. Yet here we are, proud
work and the wellbeing of the company their mission and have a
to start another one hundred year journey with that prize-winning
real sense of pride about them. Some are newcomers, but the all-
slice of salami from a hundred years ago taking us into the future.
embracing sense of pride and loyalty they feel when they utter the
Perhaps at the time, it may have seemed that Ezechiello’s dream
words “I work for Levoni” can also be seen in the faces of those
would not have come true so conclusively. But dreams are real.
who, like the agents and the drivers, develop and strengthen their
All you have to do is taste them.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
CONTEN LEVONI I SSUE
03 44
0
I
2 0 1 1 ,
Y E A R
1 0 0
EDITORIAL 100 years of history, one source of pride
A PERSONAL TALE The customer is always right
24 LEVONI AND THE LAND A passion for pigs Stefano Scansani
74 LEVONI’S PRIDE
Andrea Vitali
See you at he bicentenary! Nicola Levoni
A CENTURY OF VALUES Levoni’s ABC I Pina Foglia .......................................................................................................................................... 6
THE FIRST GENERATION: THE FOUNDER Ezechiello’s big challenge I Monica Galassi ......................................................................................... 10
THE CRAFT OF CURED MEAT PRODUCTION The human touch I Roberto Catania .............................................................................................................. 16
THE SECOND GENERATION The post war years with Lino, Aldo and Leandro I Monica Rossi
................................
20
GENUINE PRODUCTS A craftsman’s attention to detail and industrial quality I Roberto Catania ........... 26
CASTELLUCCHIO A town and company ............................................................................................................................................. 29
THE FLAVOURS OF THE PENINSULA Italy and its cured meats I Fabrizio Capecelatro ................................................................................ 30
DISTRIBUTION, VARIETY AND THE COUNTRY Delicatessens and regional specialities I Monica Scialfa ........................................................ 34
TRAINING The Silver Piglet ............................................................................................................................................................ 37
LEVONI AND ART A portrait of salami I Monica Galassi ........................................................................................................... 38
THE THIRD GENERATION From the ’70s to today with Paolo, Zechi and Mario I
Monica Scialfa
.......................
40
PECK, WHERE IT ALL BEGAN Now one of the firm’s biggest customers I Monica Galassi ................................................ 47
NTS SALES NETWORK & LOGISTICS “One of our strengths from the start” Federica Giovannini
.........................................................................................
48
THE FOURTH GENERATION A new century of Levonis Riccardo Cervelli
................................................................................................
50
LEVONI ABROAD A hundred years of quality around the world Federica Giovannini...........................................................................................
54
MEC CARNI More than just a butcher’s! Roberto Catania
.................................................................................................
58
NON HAN MAI FATTO MALE Communicating with taste Roberto Catania
.................................................................................................
60
TRADITION AND TASTE Levoni in the kitchen with the great chefs Federica Giovannini............................................................................................ 62
WINE & CURED MEATS A match made in heaven Maurizio Bertera
.................................................................................................
66
THE RIGHT BREAD ............................................................... 67 CARTOON The very best quality Claudio Mazzoli
..................................................................................................
Levoni
68
Il Secolo
I S S U E
0
I
2 01 1 ,
Y EAR
1 0 0
Francesco Moneta - The Round Table Marella Levoni PRODUCED BY: Newspaper Milano GRAPHIC DESIGN: Silvio Assi EDITOR: Lorenzo Di Palma
devised by
COORDINATING EDITOR:
THE TEAM
Maurizio Bertera, Emanuela Bottoni, Fabrizio Capecelatro, Roberto Catania, Francesca Cherubini, Riccardo Cervelli, Matteo Cusumano, Sergio Fanti, Pina Foglia, Monica Galassi, Federica Giovannini, Claudio Mazzoli, Elisabetta Reicher, Monica Rossi, Stefano Scansani, Marcello Severino, Monica Scialfa, Alfredo Trentavizi, Andrea Vitali
A CENTURY OF VALUES
LEVONI’S ABC PINA FOGLIA
IS FOR BUONO
A
C
100
I
Acquolina is used to describe something mouth-watering. No one knows how but your mouth waters when you see or smell something irresistibly appetising. Your imagination alone is enough to make it happen. Just think of something tasty, perhaps sweet, smoked or spicy. The perfect word to start this ABC
B
IS FOR CASTELLUCCHIO Once upon a time there was a small cured meat producer in a small village in the countryside between the rivers Oglio and Mincio, just outside Mantua, the uncontested heart of pig farming in Lombardy. Castellucchio is the place where Levoni‘s success took off and from where 8,000 tons of cured meats a year set off around the world
D LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
IS FOR ACQUOLINA
Buono (“good”) may seem too generic an adjective but Levoni cured meats use the word with pride as it symbolises them to a T: when Levoni says “good” it means unique quality
N UM E R O
IS FOR DEGUSTAZIONE Tasting (“degustazione”) a wine is the moment when pleasure begins. As you swirl it round in the glass, be it a delicate prosecco or unforgettable red, it should always be accompanied by the right food – flavoursome mortadella or a slice of salami. The combination has to be just right
ZE R O
IS FOR EZECHIELLO Around a hundred years ago a great adventure began for a certain man. He was very young, but full of great ideas. One above all: never compromise on quality. He loved his work and was loved by the people who worked for him. If a plant grows big and healthy, it’s thanks to the root. Thank you Ezechiello!
E
F
IS FOR FAMIGLIA
The passion for the craft of making cured meats and the control of the company are passed down from generation to generation – through the family (“famiglia”)
G
I
IS FOR GONZAGA The Gonzaga family liked good food and wine at their Renaissance banquets: melons, pumpkin-filled tortelli, boiled meats, game risottos, tongue, sharp wines, Mantuan “sbrisolona” cake, and obviously, cured meats. Levoni is proud to be part of the same local tradition
IS FOR ITALIA
The link with Italy’s culinary heritage and the land is deeprooted: the country’s many different landscapes are reflected in the variety of flavours and smells. Of course the raw ingredients are Italian too, as is Levoni’s history – the perfect example of Italian quality
IS FOR MANI
L
If you feel a salami with your hands (“mani”) you can tell how mature it is. Even the most advanced technology is not as subtle as human touch, and hands are essential in many processes such as tying
M
IS FOR LAVORO Work (“lavoro”): nothing should be improvised when a job’s to be done. Every step in the process of producing cured meat, from smoking to curing, requires great experience, knowledge, observation, attention and patience
NUM ERO
Z ERO
I
2011
LE VON I ANNO 100
N
IS FOR NATALE What would an Italian Christmas (“Natale”) be without cured meat? From the classic mixed cold meat platter to the eternal cotechino sausage and stuffed pig’s trotter with lentils to see in the New Year. They add flavour to filled ravioli and cappelletti, to tagliatelle with meat sauce, as well as stuffings for chicken and game. And what better gift could there be than a hamper with an assortment of cured meats, or the surprise of a whole Felino salami – a metre and a half long!
IS FOR PROFUMO Smell (“profumo”) – sweet, strong, full, fresh, aromatic, spiced, hints of smoke, hot. Real connoisseurs can recognise meats by their fragrance, and undoubtedly use their sense of smell when picking out the best ones
IS FOR ORGOGLIO Pride (“orgoglio”) is an essential ingredient for a company that over time transformed from a small country cured meat producer into an international business – not to mention the commitment and the dedication of subsequent generations
Q
L EV ON I 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
IS FOR QUALITÀ Quality - the secret has been the same for a hundred years: select ingredients, the meat above all, exclusively from Italian farms, natural spices and flavourings, an exclusive mix of mountain woods for smoking, and long curing times
IS FOR RICETTE
P
Recipes (“ricette”) are infinite – from the classic Parma ham with melon or figs, to sophisticated dishes with shellfish, or with forest fruit compote, and all the other possible combinations as shown by great chefs like Jamie Oliver and Paul Bocuse, both great admirers of Levoni cured meats
R
IS FOR SPEZIE
S
Spices (“spezie”) and herbs. Muntok white pepper, Indian black pepper, chilli from Malawi, not to mention coriander, fennel seeds, paprika, nutmeg, white garlic from Polesine: the whole world offers flavours to make meats even tastier. Besides helping preserve the meat they make the flavour unforgettable
T
IS FOR TAVOLA The table (“tavola”) is where people get together to have a snack, a full lunch or just a few drinks. What fun would it be to have company without bread, salami (or ham) and a glass of good wine?
V
IS FOR VINO
We mentioned tasting wine before, and here it is again – cured meat and wine is a marriage made in heaven. The important thing is to choose the right balance without letting one overcome the other in terms of flavour and sensations. Even better when both the wine and the meat are of the highest quality
U
IS FOR UNGHERESE Levoni’s “Hungarian” (“ungherese”) salami is not from Budapest or some village by Lake Balaton. This salami, Ezechiello’s first great success, was totally Italian. His interpretation of it won him the Gold Medal at the Modern Arts and Industry Exhibition in London in 1913. What a great start!
IS FOR ZAMPONE Levoni still makes its “zampone” (stuffed pig’s trotter) just as they did in the 16th century at the court of the Duchy of Mirandola, the same place cotechino sausage has its origins. It is made from a mix of lean and fatty pork meat combined with finely chopped pork rind and flavoured with herbs. The result is a sweet, slightly spicy, meat with a soft and delicate consistency
NUM ERO
Z
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
THE FIRST GENERATION: THE FOUNDER
Ezechiello’s big challenge A man of incredible imagination, enterprise, intuition, courage and generosity, gave it its trademark from the earliest days: never compromise on quality. MONICA GALASSI
T
he Levoni history and the century-long story of “the Good Ones” all started on 27 November 1880 when founding father Ezechiello
was born in Castelnuovo Rangone, a small village in the Italian province of Modena whose economy was based on the work of the many pork butchers. It was nothing out of the ordinary then, when Ezechiello was sent to Milan to serve an apprenticeship under the well-known charcutier from Prague Francesco Peck; when this was complete, Ezechiello teamed up with a partner to sell lard then in 1911, leased premises in Precotto (precooked in English so not just a name, but also an omen) near Milan that Peck himself had once occupied. 1913 was the year that changed everything, thanks to the unexpected and vociferous victory («pigs will fly before you ever win», his rivals had taunted him before the announcement), in the international Modern arts and industry exhibition in London; Ezechiello won the gold medal with his personal interpretation of a Hungarian salami. Ezechiello’s ambition was fuelled by this recognition and his plans multiplied; the onset of World War II however put a temporary stop to his enterprising spirit. From 1915 to 1918 he was enlisted and his wife, Maria Magnaghi
IN THE YEAR... Ezechiello Levoni (second on the left) and his wife Maria (second on the right)
(married in 1904 and originally from Binasco) was forced to sell his equipment to feed their five children. On his return, he was faced with the prospect of having to start over: he built another even bigger business in Cerese.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
With the support of a financial backer, in 1922 he started butchering pigs and selling fresh pork. Cerese, albeit the birthplace of the famous Latin poet Virgil, proved to be lacking in solid transport links with the rest of the world and in 1928, Ezechiello relocated his business to Castellucchio, which was only slightly more populated but had an all-important train station. His friend Villani owned industrial premises right there, and he was more than happy to sell. This was the first time Ezechiello had ever really gone it alone and he decided that it was time to put down some solid and permanent roots. So it was that he opened a factory in Castellucchio, and with his trademark resolve and refusal to compromise on the quality of the raw materials and care with which they are processed, Ezechiello started producing salamis, mortadella, lard, cured ham (originally cured on site) and cooked ham (including the Prague variety which was added to the catalogue in 1920 in response to the incessant requests Ezechiello had been receiving from the Tyrol and Tre Venezie regions, at the time considered
IN THE YEAR... Traditional dinners and celebrations with employees, friends and suppliers are a tradition that lives on in Castellucchio
THE 1913 EXHIBITION To fully appreciate the importance of the Gold Medal that Ezechiello won in London in 1913, you have to consider how important these Great Exhibitions were in the roaring early 1900s: a Great Exhibition was one of the very few truly international occasions that thousands of businesses had to pit their products against each other. Globalization emerged from these very events. The original 1913 award diploma from the Exhibition is proudly on display at the company offices
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
priority markets as they were momentarily “uncontaminated” by rival producers). As time went by, his turnover increased and the next generation became restless to come onboard: after countless attempts to emerge in their own right, Ezechiello handed over the reins of the Levoni company (which had progressed from a sole partner to a limited partnership in the meantime) to his sons (Aldo, Lino and Leandro) in 1934. This was to be the beginning of a tradition whereby fathers and uncles, on reaching a certain age, step away from the business all on the same day, leaving it in the hands of sons, nieces and nephews. There are so many anecdotes about this quite distinctive man, who will be forever remembered with a Tuscan cigar sitting at the side of his mouth. One in particular has to do with the habit he had of treating his entire work force to a special meal every 27 November (his birthday). The most entertaining of these is the time when, in spite of the advice of his doctors who had forbidden Ezechiello from eating fish or fish-related dishes, his daughter-in-law Rita put together an exquisite fish-based menu: obviously, there was no actual real fish in the dishes she made her father-in-law, they only looked like fish, but he was so annoyed he stormed off, slamming the door behind him. He reappeared blissfully content two days later, claiming that he had been beset by an overwhelming urge to visit his daughter Elena who had moved to Palermo. Now to be honest, Ezechiello wasn’t an easy man, but nevertheless, no one in the Levoni family has a bad word to say about him, not even those who were just youngsters in Ezechiello’s day (Paolo, Zechi and Mario) who every now and then would feel the back of his hand for some silly stunt they’d pulled (such as crushing the hay playing football) or a short, sharp early-morning wake-up call after one too many lie-ins. Everyone loved him, workers and agents included, because he was a man of astounding creativity, enterpris-
DISCOVERING AMERICA In 1933, Levoni cured meats were flown to America for the first time ever, to be served at a gourmet banquet in New York. A cousin with the surname Nannini and general in the Italian Air Force, took part in the transatlantic flight organized to celebrate ten years of Fascism: this event was commemorated in a poem written in the local Modena dialect and signed with thanks by Italo Balbo and all those who were part of the adventure and present at the lunch afterwards.
ing spirit, intuition, courage and generosity.
EZECHIELLO LEVONI Born in 1880 in Castelnuovo Rangone (in the Italian province of Modena), Ezechiello Levoni made his energy his trademark. At age 10, he went to Milan (where Peck’s shop became like a school for him); from here, his ambition took him to London (where he took everyone by surprise by submitting a gold-medal salami), after which his
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
instincts told him to carve out a niche market for himself in Trento, Trieste and Bolzano. An enlightened businessman, when he realized that he’d made a success of the business, at just 55 years of age and with no second thoughts, he handed over the reins of the company to his sons and gave up his business career (except for producing
cheese, growing fruit trees and fishing). This enterprising and intuitive man was also cantankerous and passionate: he was completely besotted with Maria (whom he married in 1904) and had an obvious soft spot for his youngest granddaughter Elisabetta.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
THE CRAFT OF CURED MEAT PRODUCTION
The human touch Workers are the company’s greatest resource: the secret of the goodness of Levoni’s products lies in their skill and precision ROBERTO CATANIA
T
he quality of the company’s
range of craft skills that have been
output relies to this day
handed down from generation to
on the skill of its employees, with
generation.
a little help from state-of-the-art
Entering the world of Levoni is
technology. This principle goes
like taking a step back in time: there
back a very long way and is one of
are people who bone thighs with a
the Levoni family’s guiding values.
knife like a surgeon with a scalpel,
The company’s founder, Ezechiello
those who tie the salamis and pig’s
Levoni, is the prime example: at the
trotters, those who examine the
beginning of the 20th century he
innards, those who prepare the fires
travelled to Dalmatia to learn the
for smoking, and those who com-
art and secrets of smoking meat in
bine the pork fat with the hams.
the Austro-Hungarian empire. He
The figurehead of this precise
understood the importance of the
network of skills from days gone
choice of wood, and when he return-
by is Marco Brancolini: Levoni’s
ed to Italy he devised his own perso-
“curer”. He’s the man who checks
nal method of using a special mix of
the degree of curing of the salamis.
mountain woods.
He may have a range of tools to mo-
This very same method is still
nitor the temperature, humidity and
used today for all smoked meats
all the critical process parameters,
that carry the “silver piglet” mark.
but much of his work is done with
This is also why the plant at Ca-
his sense of smell and touch. This is
stellucchio has preserved a whole
what tells him that a salami is ready
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
to be served at the table as it is firm
are selected in a very similar way
and compact, and that it is matured
to another typical ingredient from
enough to release the inviting, heady
Mantua: Grana Padano cheese. Da-
aromas that make your mouth water.
ria Levoni explains, “Just as with
perhaps the only issue is deciding which of the young employees have a certain kind of talent or predisposition for these jobs, as well as for
The manual element in produc-
wheels of Grana Padano, every sin-
tion processes becomes even more
gle ham has its own life story. Hams
qualifications are also required,
important in Levoni’s specialities.
teamwork. Of course today good
are selected one at a time, according
especially for those destined to be-
Hams cooked on the bone, for
to strict quality standards, up to tho-
come department heads. But the
example, are salted by hand, leg by
se that reach the highest standards
rest of their training will consist of
leg: salt is added via the femoral ar-
of excellence.”
being scrupulously supported and
tery and therefore spreads throughout the leg from the inside.
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
SPECIALISTS Clockwise from above: tying the salami by hand; adding fat to raw hams and labelling Napoli sausage
a
But how does one become
assisted. That’s exactly how it was
Levoni specialist? Professional
for Marco Brancolini, who says he is
The human factor is just as
figures rise from within the Levoni
a pupil of Paolo Levoni: “He was the
important in choosing top quality
ranks. The people who cure, bone
one who taught me all the tricks of
raw ham – such as the San Daniele
and add fat to the meats have lear-
the trade, and who showed me the
Riserva della Contessa and the Don
ned their trade within the company,
patience and dedication that this job
Romeo Sigillo Nero. These products
explain the company’s managers;
requires.”
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
THE SECOND GENERATION
The post war years with Lino, Aldo and Leandro Innovation and internationalization. The product range and number of exports grew rapidly under the management of Ezechiello’s three sons MONICA ROSSI
T
hey worked together just long enough to see the first transatlantic flight of the firm’s salamis before their father very quickly took
his leave in 1934, making it time for Lino, Aldo and Leandro to take over. On receiving the reins of the family business, the three brothers shared out the responsibilities: Aldo was given administration and sales, Lino production and Leandro shipping and sales. They put a number of new items into production, such as speck and Paisanella, Lino’s successful invention, and they stepped up exports, after France, Switzerland, United Kingdom adding Somalia, Libya, Egypt, Morocco, Venezuela and then USA. Attending specialist trade shows they printed appealing cards, leaflets, calendars and brochures. In 1943 Aldo and Lino joined the army as volunteers and in 1941, Leandro, the youngest of the three, was forced to close the factory and lease the premises to the Italian Armed Forces who converted the building into food supplies warehouses then turned it over to the Wehrmacht.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
After the war, in 1946, the former employees joined together to form a cooperative and started the original business back up. Given the situation, Aldo tried his luck in Johannesburg: he found the right premises, had the machinery shipped out with his trusted companion Guido Beduschi and set about finding some meat
ALDO LEVONI LINO LEVONI
to process. Both businesses were destined to fail: the cooperative in Castellucchio due to the employees’ lack of financial experience, and the plant in Johannesburg due to obstructionism from local lobby groups who expected control of the company in exchange for the meat provided (distributed in quotas). The situation sorted itself out when the former employees appealed to Aldo who then returned to Castellucchio. The accounts were squared and the cooperative was by necessity replaced by Levoni family control. By then it was 1947. In the years that followed, the Levoni brothers remained faithful to the successful business format that combined industrial output with the principles of craft production. In 1962, the curing of raw hams was transferred to Volta Mantovana, an area originally picked for its favourable climate (benefiting from the nearby Lake
LEANDRO LEVONI
Garda). It was there that the exclusive San Giorgio, San Marco and San Martino varieties were created. For the cooked hams that were delicate to preserve, sales were limited to the short term; only when really necessary (for trade shows for example) they were transported in tin boxes sealed on all sides and made airtight with the use of a lead tube in an attempt to create a vacuum. Products were shipped on three of the firm’s own vehicles, as well as by Marco, the donkey, whose cart provided the transport link between the company and the train station. On Saturday afternoons he would saunter around town with future heirs Paolo, Zechi and Mario. Are there any interesting tales to tell about this second generation? There’s the very fortuitous creation of one of Levoni’s flagship products: the Paisanella. In a tribute to the local custom in Mantua of rolling pancetta together with the salami to stop the latter from very quickly turning sour, Lino decided to mix
PAISANELLA Pancetta with salami is a traditional delicacy in the Mantua area, although Lino’s version which mixes cubes of pancetta through the raw meat mixture of the salami is a firm favourite in other regions, Sicily in particular
cubes of pancetta right through the raw meat mixture of the salami: this resulted in a speciality that was not well received in the Mantua area (people questioned where the original recipe had come from) but absolutely adored in other regions, such as Sicily, where it resembled the local S. Angelo salami.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI AND THE LAND
A PASSION FOR PIGS STEFANO SCANSANI*
T
he land around Castellucchio, which extends around Mantua, slipping gently down from the Garda hills with a glance to the Po River before it reaches across to the Apennines, is blessed
with an abundance of pigs. There are signs here, there and everywhere. In time and space and since the world began, the province of Mantua has always had a sixth sense when it comes to pigs and pork, almost as if it was bequeathed an inborn skill for pig-farming. The Levoni family couldn’t have been in a better place for the adventure they were about to undertake: a place that was perfect for pigs and for the people working with pork. Having said this, you never actually see the animals themselves. Although the area in and around Mantua holds the world record: one and a half million animals reared every year over an area of 2,339 km² and populated by 400,000 people, you never see the pigs because they live in the thousands of pig farms dotted around the countryside. Now while there may be no visible signs, you can certainly sense their presence from the distinctive countryside smell - far better than industrial smog - and the gentle fragrances from the many charcuteries. Pigs and their meat pervade the delicatessens, are part of the land’s traditions and make their presence felt on the economy. Here, there and everywhere, since time began in other words. In the Mantua area, man has been living alongside pigs (an animal from which absolutely nothing is wasted) since Neolithic times. It’s a shared existence that started some six thousand years ago. Archaeological studies confirm that pigs, which in those days were wild and very different from the pink pigs we’ve come to know over the past two centuries, were tamed and enjoyed by the semi-nomadic peoples who were starting to do less hunting and gathering
MANTUA SKYLINE The province has the world’s highest concentration of pigs: one and a half million are bred in the area
and more farming and animal husbandry. The land is spattered with pig bones, they are unearthed in excavations and are present at each point in the history of prehistoric man. The vocation for pig-farming in this part of the Po Valley is practised today with the same passion as it was then. The province of Mantua is a gateway of land and water and a connection with Etruscan and Celtic cultures, covered by a blanket of oak forests. These close ties with Etruscan and Po Valley culture are confirmed by the town’s most famous laureate, Publius Vergilius Maro. Mantua was the southern-most ramification of ancient Italic civilisation. Felsina, Mutina, Mantua... The breeding of pigs and the processing and sale of their meat was a flourishing trade as early as the 4th and 5th centuries. In actual fact, it was probably the most profitable trade of them all. While Pericles was founding the Parthenon on the Acropolis in Athens, the Po Valley Etruscans in the Forcello settlement (on the river Mincio, southeast of where Mantua currently stands) were exporting cured prosciutto ham to Greece. These inhabitants of the marshlands, used to mosquitoes, seasonal fogs and beautiful fat, were already master charcutiers. The origins of their craft were ancient, and by
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
THE AUTHOR *journalist for Gazzetta di Mantova, and author of Fenomenologia del Maiale (Tre Lune Editore, 2006)
a quirk of fate, Forcello is similar to one of the Italian words for pig. Evidence of the export trade can be found in the deposits of animal bones that have been found around the Etruscan archaeological site. The wild pig may have ruled supreme, but with one defect though. There were no femur bones in the mass of skeletons unearthed.... which could mean that the rear legs ended up elsewhere. Where? It doesn’t take long to work it out when you see the imports that came and the exports that went out via the Adriatic, and the Po and Mincio Rivers. The legs of cured ham went to Greece whilst amphorae of wine and oil arrived from Greece and the Aegean Islands, coloured glass from Egypt not to mention lead and copper bartered with the Celts. Pigs therefore held much power, as a currency, product and vehicle of culture. There was no better place than the Italian Po Valley to breed the best pigs. The oak forests that covered the Po river basin, the deeper, thicker and darker the better, assured an abundant supply of food from above. Acorns from heaven in other words. Over the centuries, the area continued to be heaven on earth for pigs, throughout the spread of the Roman Empire and even afterwards, into the low Middle Ages and the Barbarians, right through to the 1800s when pigs were introduced to pigpens, piggeries, farms, intensive breeding and disappearing forests. Like so, the wild pig disappeared too, along with wolves, both destined to exist only in fairy tales from then on. It vanished as the large Benedictine monasteries flourished, having industrialized cattle and pig breeding, cheese-making, and the production of Grana cheese around the Po River. It disappeared as the noble class expanded their landholdings. But all the time, humans never forgot the importance of pigs. It would have been impossible to, because by then the animal had become intrinsic to the area. Now, instead of “animale” in Italian it should be “‘nimale” because, both alive or as a cured delicacy, pigs are the fusion of everything that is good and bad “male”, of everything that is considered sin and all that is considered virtue. The pig is a contradictory beast that continues to shape the collective imagination, inhabiting the furthest reaches of the subconscious, and producing the most basic of foods. This is what makes the pig such a figurative creature, a vessel filled with an abundance of things. A salami is both metaphysical and terrestrial, attributes that exist side by side in the same casing. Take some time to reflect on this, as if you really think about it, it could almost be reincarnation: salami is the chopped meat of a pig packed into the pig’s own intestine, so digested by itself. I’ll stop now, lest I churn up any more emotions about the live or dead animal. This ‘nimale has had such a profound effect on the fortunes of mankind and the cohabitation of the two, that it has even influenced human language and relationships. You just have to look at the province of Mantua to see that even contemporary topography reveals signs of the ancient relationships between nature and pigs, with the help of man. In the local town of Sermide, in the easternmost part of the province right on the border with
PERFECT HABITAT SINCE NEOLITHIC TIMES In the province of Mantua, men and pigs have lived together for more than six thousand years. Every family in the Po Valley used to breed at least one pig a year.
Ferrara, there are two ancient villages, so close they are almost on top of each other: one is called Roversella (oak, producer of acorns) and the other Porcara, a place that used to be home to who knows how many pigs. There wasn’t a home, in other words a farm in these parts, that didn’t have a salami room where the sausages were placed to dry and cure, hung up like aromatic stalactites on canes and ropes draped across the ceiling. The salami room was seen as such a prestigious and alchemic place on account of the chemical and physical transformation of the meat and fat making them supremely sliceable, that it was often the bedroom of the head of the household and his good wife, the “rasdóra”, who looked after the family. It is quite a powerful symbol: salami hanging over the marriage bed. Symbolism abounds, including the metaphorical representation of fertility, of Maia, the ancient and bountiful goddess of spring where the name of all names came from: maiale (pig in Italian). There’s no doubt the ancient public sacrifice of a pig (no longer practised probably because contemporary society is no longer as tolerant as it used to be) was a pagan, political and gastronomic celebration. It goes without saying that slicing a salami conjures up the ancient ritual of sharing: one salami becomes a succession of slices, and everyone gets an equal-sized piece. Pigs are democratic animals. In and around the Po Valley, every family bred one pig a year: last year’s would be hanging from the salami room ceiling in casings to dry and cure whilst this year’s would be growing in the courtyard, eating the same broth and receiving the same attentions as the rest of the family. A pig was a precious family asset and part of the cycle of life. This kind of organisation, tradition and diet in the province of Mantua, just like the rest of the Po Valley, had a strong influence on culture and cultivation, drawing boundaries- between the peninsular world of sheep-farming or olive growing on the one hand, and the world of meat and lard that was pig-farming on the other. At this stage, our history and geography, condensed in this way, can be passed on for more philosophical reflection. Just think that here, around the Po, maybe even in Castellucchio, it all started from an acorn.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
GENUINE PRODUCTS
A craftsman’s attention to detail and industrial quality Just why is all Levoni salami so good? A long production chain, advanced genetic studies, ancient recipes and meticulously selected ingredients, as well as natural “rhythms” ROBERTO CATANIA
O
ne of the cornerstones of the Levoni
suppliers who share the same company philosophy,
philosophy is respect for raw ma-
and on the other creating in-house, whenever possible,
terials. This is an aim that the company achieves by
all the necessary systems to integrate and improve the
using
level of the raw material.
mostly natural production processes.
Daria Levoni, in charge of the company’s rese-
More than 50 years ago the company and its part-
arch and development, explains: “Our challenge is to
ner Sereni set up a centre to study pig farming and
combine the guarantees and safety standards of indu-
gene-tics and it is perhaps the best example of the com-
strial systems with the accuracy and attention to pro-
pany’s aim: at this centre of excellence the animals’
duct
detail of a typically handmade process. For
genetics are studied to guarantee the quality of breed
many this may seem like a utopian ideal, given that the
animals and piglets, as well as studying feeding and the
two aspects are worlds apart, but our results show that
animals’ growth environment.
this type of convergence is possible.”
The attention to detail almost borders on the pa-
Levoni’s main objective here is safeguarding the
thological. “Besides the production regulations for
raw material. “This is a factor that is sometimes not
Parma and San Daniele hams, the benchmark for
with-in our control,” comments Daria, who explains:
raw ham production, there is the know-how involved
“Processing pork meat is just the last link in a long
in farming,” explains Daria Levoni. “We try to see to
production chain that begins with looking into the best
everything that has to do with the pig’s wellbeing: we
breed. There is the risk in a chain like this of a cheaper
ensure it is kept in a healthy, wholesome environment
meat but one that doesn’t have the inherent characte-
so that as little medi-cine as possible is required, we
ristics to be able to process it. Many farmers want an
are also very demand-ing about what they are fed, the
animal that grows quickly and that therefore can be
quality of transport, and all those details that may af-
replaced with another as swiftly as possible. We, on the
fect the animal’s quality of life and therefore its meat.”
other hand, are interested in quality.”
No less important is the slaughtering stage, which
To find the best solution Levoni has worked on two
Levoni entrusts to its butcher, Mec Carni, one of the
fronts: on the one hand building a network of “partner”
most modern centres in this sector. Every week almost
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
RESEARCH To the side, smoking. Below, the Castellucchio Analysis Laboratory, and one of the keepers of the Levoni cured meat recipes
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
10,000 units pass through it, 30% of which will arrive
lations. Daria Levoni points out: “Levoni never com-
at Levoni - rigorously respecting the strictest stan-
promises, not even in this case: we use only herbs,
dards in the field.
spices or their natural extracts. In the latter case
Another feather in Levoni’s cap is the attention
they are extracted following historic Levoni recipes,
paid to selecting and measuring the ingredients used.
in the former the company employs a team of spe-
This is the classic detail that makes all the difference:
cialist staff who travel the world looking for the best
the company has specifically decided to pare recipes
spices�.
down to the barest minimum to enhance the flavour
All consignments of flavourings are strictly con-
of the meat. But most importantly it has decided to
trolled internally: each sample is inspected in the
add only natural - in the strictest sense of the term
quality department for its visual, microbiological
- flavourings, as specified also by the new EU regu-
and organoleptic characteristics. It must also be
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
CH
io
the the d es
stressed that both spices and herbs are milled or
THE WORDS OF THE MAJOR, ROMANO MONICELLI
processed on company premises just before being
CASTELLUCCHIO A TOWN AND COMPANY
added to the mixture so that they do not lose any of their aromatic properties. The best quality results obviously go hand in hand with time limitations. The long curing of raw ham (always more than the minimum for the PDO ham) is just the tip of the iceberg as regards how production processes follow the rhythms of nature. Every Levoni product must respect tight deadlines, in terms of cooking, smoking and curing. So for example cooked hams must be steamed in the oven slowly, while the Ungherese salami –
E
veryone who lives in Castelluc-
chio has heard of the Levoni brand.
one of Levoni’s most renowned and famous spe-
Of course in a town of just over 5,000
cialities – after being naturally smoked, requires
inhabitants a company of this size is
longer times for drying and curing.
something very special. Today about one in ten of the townspeople is employed by Levoni, and anyone who doesn’t work there has a friend or relative who does. And the mayor, Romano Monicelli, is no exception: “Castellucchio is a small town characterised by the area’s farms, but has a broader outlook than the surrounding towns. Being close to Mantua helps, but it is especially the presence of a large company like Levoni that has changed the townspeople’s productive mentality.” In this part of the world, pigs are important for many people’s jobs, and not just directly thanks to Levoni’s business. “The volume of animals that enter the company is quite high and it is a process that involves local farms, milk producing consortiums, and farming partners. All this means the per capita income of the town is higher than the local average, as well as offering greater social independence: the life of people from Castellucchio almost entirely revolves around the town”. Consideration must also be made of Levoni’s influence in less evident factors from a macroeconomic point of view, but that are plainly felt locally. The mayor explains, “To realise this, all you have to do is take a walk along the road that leads to the plants and stop in at the bar or in the local delicatessen, all busy thanks to the many Levoni workers who pass by.
THE TOWN AND THE CASTLE The name of the town comes from its small “castle”. All that remains today of the ancient building is a tower and battlements. It fell under possession of the noble Gonzaga family in 1328. For many centuries it was a very productive farm and home to well-to-do families of powerful landowners, whose importance is reflected in the presence of several historical villas and other old buildings.
Or count all the former employees who have continued to be interested in the slaughtering sector and other fields involving pigs.” It is understandable that in a context like this urban planning is also affected. It must be pointed out that there are no environmental consequences. The mayor assures, “For its type and size, the impact of Levoni on the surroundings is not disruptive. On the contrary, the townspeople can be grateful to the company given that the management has agreed to cooperate with the local council on a number of its urban green projects.”
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
THE FLAVOURS OF THE PENINSULA
ITALY AND ITS CURED MEATS Italy has many regions, cultures and traditions that are the result of centuries of different histories. This multiplicity of traditions can also be seen in the kitchen; this is not, however, a sign of separation but of great richness and an excellent chance for cultural exchanges. This is why Levoni produces and markets the cured meats that are typical of all of Italy’s different regions, allowing, for example, a person from Milan to taste Tuscan Finocchiona and someone from Naples Sopressa from the Veneto region.
Traditionally linked with Friuli, where since the times of the ancient Celts salt was used to preserve meat, San Daniele Ham is characterised by the presence of the “trotter”. Levoni selects the best legs for its “Riserva della Contessa”.
FABRIZIO CAPECELATRO
SALAME MANTOVANO VECCHIA OSTERIA
SALAME MANTOVANO DEL PO
BRESAOLA DELLA VALTELLINA I.G.P. Sopressa is a typical salami from the Veneto region, with a soft but strongly flavoured mixture that is especially aromatic. Levoni, while respecting the traditional recipe, uses a leaner mixture but nonetheless in the classic “bean” shape.
SALSICCIA SALAMELLA MANTOVANA
LOMBARDIA SALAME MILANO
LARDO DI CASTELLUCCHIO
SOPRESSA VENETA CICCIOLI MANTOVANI
Milano salami dates back to the Renaissance and was made by farmers in the Brianza area. Today it is the best-selling salami in Italy and the most famous around the world. Its particularity is its “rice grain” grinding which Levoni carries out using the most traditional methods. It is soft ruby red in colour with a strong aroma and sweet and delicate flavour.
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
VENETO SALAME VERONA
PROSCIUTTO CRUDO SAN DANIELE DOP
Legatoisper Speck a tradizioneofal tradition Trentino Alto Trentino-Alto dove Adige, where viene prodotto it has been fin dal 1300, produced since lo Speck 1300. It isètaken ottenuto cosce from legsda with particolarmente particularly lean magre,salted salateand meat, e aromatizzate flavoured with con aglio, pepe, garlic, pepper, bacche berries di ginepro juniper e noce moscata. and nutmeg. The L’esclusivaLevoni ricetta exclusive Levoni dates nasceback recipe negli ’50. to theanni 1950s.
FRIULI
WÜRSTEL
CASTELSPECK
TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE
SALAME UNGHERESE
PANCETTA STUFATA CARRÉ AFFUMICATO
PROSCIUTTO COTTO CORONA PRAGA CON OSSO
NatoSiena’s dall’antica arte Using ancient salumiera of di Siena, traditions cured il meat Salame Toscano è production, caratterizzato dalla Toscano Salami is presenza di by lardelli characterised the bianchi e compatti presence of white nel della carne lardrosso in the lean red magra. Il suo è meat. Itsgusto strong deciso, leggermente flavour, slightly agliato pepato, garlicky and epeppery, con un aroma is accompanied davvero intenso. La by a truly intense Finocchiona è invece aroma. Finocchiona unthe prodotto on other tipico hand tradizione del isdella a typical product fiorentino, ofChianti the Chianti area che Levoni si near Florence, which impegna a realizzare Levoni is committed secondofollowing la ricetta to making più tradizionale. the most traditional L’impasto morbido, recipe. Theèmixture is ilsoft gusto fortemente andè the flavour caratterizzato dai strongly characterised semi di finocchio. by fennel seeds.
SALAME FELINO
SALSICCIA SECCA ROMAGNOLA
MORTADELLA BOLOGNA I.G.P. ORO COPPA DI PARMA
COTECHINO MODENA I.G.P.
TOSCANA
PANCETTA STECCATA CONTADINA
PROSCIUTTO CRUDO DI PARMA DOP
CULATELLO CUALTELLO CULATELLO
SALAME FINOCCHIONA
SALAME TOSCANO
EMILIA ROMAGNA
ZAMPONE MODENA I.G.P. Una tradizione pertown la città di Parma sin Traditional of the of Parma since dal III secolo a.C.:B.C.: il Prosciutto di Parma the third century Parma Ham PDO Dop si caratterizza il gusto dolce e is characterised by per its sweet and delicate delicato.Levoni Levonifollows seguestrict le rigide regole flavour. traditional della tradizione; le cosce rules; the legs only come provengono from heavy solo da suiniinpesanti allevati nel nord pigs raised northern and central Italy, e nelthe centro seleziona i migliori and very Italia best e hams are chosen for its prosciuttiDon per Romeo”, la “Riserva Don is Romeo”, “Riserva which cured for stagionati at least 16 almeno months.16 mesi.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
Schiacciata Romana is a typical product of central Italy, with its home in Lazio. Its main characteristics are that it is slightly flattened, hence the name “schiacciata”, with a typically sweet flavour, thanks to the addition of lard to the very fine mixture.
Lombetto cured pork is Umbria’s typical salami. It is encased in natural stomach lining and still hand tied to this day. Lombetto is flavoured with wine and natural spices that give a sweet and slightly spiced flavour, as well as a soft consistency.
UMBRIA SCHIACCIATA ROMANA
LAZIO
LOMBETTO
SALAME CORALLINA
SALAME NAPOLI
SALAME MUGNANO
SALSICCIA SECCA CANOSA
PUGLIA
CAMPANIA SALSICCIA NAPOLI
Napoli Sausage is the typical salami of the territory around Vesuvius. Made with a coarse grain mixture, it is encased in natural stomach lining. Levoni uses traditional methods and lightly smokes it. It is available in sweet and spicy versions, the latter contains plenty of chilli pepper and paprika.
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
CAPOCOLLO NAPOLETANO
Puglian in origin, dried Canosa sausage is characterised by its traditional “U” shape and its lean meat with a compact consistency. The fennel seeds add a touch of sweetness.
CALABRIA
SALSICCIA MEDITERRANEA PICCANTE
SALAME ABRUZZESE
SALAME VENTRICINA
SCHIACCIATA PICCANTE
ABRUZZO Hot Mediterranean sausage comes from Calabria, where the mixture is made from lean meats with a rather coarse texture, enlivened with chilli pepper and strong paprika, making it very spicy. It also makes the perfect topping for pizzas.
Abruzzese Salami is typical of the ancient Abruzzo tradition, with a fine texture and seasoned with plenty of black peppercorns. Levoni offers the strong salami in three versions: classic, flattened and “gentle”, which is unusually broader at the base.
SALAME PAISANELLA
Paisanella is a salami invented by Levoni in the 1950s for Sicilian customers, who have adopted it as the island’s traditional salami. It has a coarse texture when sliced by knife, with a sweet and delicate flavour and a soft consistency.
SICILIA SALAME SICILIANO
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
DISTRIBUTION, VARIETY AND THE COUNTRY
Delicatessens and regional specialities Levoni’s marketing director tells the story of a decision carried forward for a hundred years MONICA SCIALFA
D
ivided into three cate-
pillary job and one that is hard to
like this means we will reach many
gories of aromas (swe-
maintain, but it is one that repays
more potential end customers. Ano-
et, hot and smoked), there are more
itself in how far Levoni is from the
ther aspect to consider is that it is
than 50 different types - a number that
homologised, industrialised compa-
reckoned that per capita Italians
the average consumer is unlikely to
nies.»
consume 19 kilos of cured meats
know or even guess: the cured meat par excellence, the favourite one that
What do you mean when you say it’s hard?
each year, some of us may only eat the same variety all the time,
is the best example of the gastrono-
«Because reproducing dozens
perhaps a local kind, but it is ano-
mic culture of the different regions of
of local recipes convincingly is dif-
ther kettle of fish if we can mana-
Italy, is undoubtedly salami. «Unghe-
ficult, and we do it by using only
ge to encourage customers to vary
rese, Milano, Napoli and Mantovano
top quality ingredients and with the
their tastes sometimes. This is why
salami are our best-selling products,»
help of technological instruments.
we encourage delicatessens to pro-
confirms Roberto Pagliari, Levoni’s
Secondly, the variety is a challenge:
mote themed weeks, with tastings of
marketing director.
some of our products are only consu-
new products that may be comple-
Why all this hard work to
med in small geographical areas and
tely different from their traditional
reproduce all the “culinar y dia-
so are niche products that aren’t
ones. By so doing the palates of the
lects” of the Italian peninsula?
sold in large quantities.
most demanding people who travel
«It’s an inevitable choice for us,
The choice may seem unecono-
one that goes hand in hand with the
mic, but if you look carefully this
choice to use small businesses as
approach allows Levoni to improve
through the catalogue I see that
our preferential distribution chan-
its bond with delicatessen owners,
you also “cover” Friuli (with
nel. If I want to work with the delica-
who, thanks to our logistics, are ne-
Prague ham), Trentino-Alto Adi-
tessen owners in all the important
ver let down in terms of stock. En-
ge (with speck), Bologna (morta-
areas I have to be able to meet their
joying the trust of the delicatessen
della), Valtellina (bresaola), Mo-
local needs. It is a meticulous, ca-
owners, gastronomes and butchers
dena (cotechino and zampone):
ROBERTO PAGLIARI Levoni S.p.A. Marketing Director
to try new cuisine are also satisfied.» Besides
salami,
flicking
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
which regions are missing? «Only
Sardi-
nia, but you never know!». Tradition is an often used word in Levoni, but in your product list are there examples of “modernity”? «Yes, for example
the
«salame
dello Scudetto» (Championship sa-
GROWTH AND CONSTANT QUALITY «If you look at the company’s history, it’s easy to see that over the years there has been continuous consistent growth...»
lami), made with lean ham meats, which with its lower 11% fat content reflects the general trend for increasingly lower-fat and lower-salt products. We actually always try to compensate for this train of thought by making it our priority to preserve traditional flavour. We won’t sacrifice flavour, rather we encourage knowledgeable consumption. I'm sure you will have heard that a few slices of salami never hurt anyone! Pre-sliced meats and «takeaway» cured meats, in other words quantities of less than a kilo, satisfy the consumer’s practical needs.» Levoni is not particularly present in large-scale retail: why and how was this choice made? «From the ’80s onwards supermarket chains forced producers to make a choice: if you wanted to play their game you had to meet their deadlines; which is why some companies tried to streamline costs, and confident of increased sales volumes, they standardised their recipes.
workmen) has never convinced the
What’s more the illusion of fast
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
Levoni family.
troughs. After years of falling retail tra-
sales (which by the way is incompa-
If you look at the company’s
de, small shops are having a second
tible with the structure of our plant,
history, it’s easy to see that over the
wind, and those who spurned this
the work of which is still rooted in
years there has been continuous
channel are now being penalised.
the manual craftsmanship of our
consistent growth, with no peaks or
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
As we are coherent we have
been far-sighted and today, taking into account both historical and new stores, we have no less than nine thousand clients». What’s the perfect delicatessen owner like? «A good owner will appreciate good food, he will be motivated to recommend the best quality to the extent that he is always learning, studying and testing. Today’s consumers are increasingly knowledgeable and like to experiment and check the quality of what they are purchasing. The delicatessen owner of the future won’t improvise, he’ll be an expert in his field, and will demonstrate his knowledge of the goods he offers, and will be able to advise on what products make perfect
accompaniments.
This is why he can’t be trying to save time just to make a quick
THE COURSE FOR MASTER DELICATESSEN OWNERS
THE SILVER PIGLET
T
he Silver Piglet course is the result of Levoni’s passion for top quality gastronomes, delicatessen owners and butchers: the aim to take a leading role in safeguarding, communicating and enriching the heritage of its own skills
spurred the company to establish a training and refresher course for its best clients. In 2008 the programme devised by Giorgio Levoni got underway.
buck: there must be time to dis-
He is the cousin who now manages a sweet-making business in Tuscany. Many
cuss, to consult, to compare and
authoritative teachers (such as Cristina Bertazzoni, Levoni’s training project con-
to taste and he will be repaid with
sultant) alternated on the five-module course, which in three years has seen the
the customer’s trust. Besides this
participation of a thousand delicatessen owners from 50 Italian towns.
as a good businessman he must
The lessons, which include both theory and practice, have proven to be fer-
have the right stock, be careful
tile terrain for exchanging ideas, impressions and useful recommendations, so the
with how he communicates, and
desire arose to set down the experience on paper by creating the manual Gestire
be inventive when it comes to
un negozio alimentare (Managing a food store) published by Franco Angeli. The
promotion.
subjects dealt with to turn delicatessen owners into real gastronomic consultants-
And how does he learn to do
educators have been: cured meat tasting techniques (to improve analysis and
all this? The current problem is
evaluation skills for products through the senses), how to best display items in a
precisely this: unlike other Euro-
store (by taking into consideration economic and aesthetic factors as well as the
pean countries, such as, I believe,
customer’s psychological aspect), communicating with consumers (to make each
France, where there are top level
stage in the sales trans-action more efficient: welcoming, diagnosing the custo-
training courses for butchers and
mer’s needs, presenting the product, overcoming objections, concluding the sale),
delicatessen owners (for exam-
economic management of a store, (tools and strategies to improve profitability of
ple the French maître boucher),
the store, constantly checking the relationship between costs and takings, and
in Italy there are no specific
identifying critical points that can be improved), marketing and promotion (with
courses. We receive emails every
the aim of enhancing the outward appearance of the store while spending the mi-
day from young people asking for
nimum amount of money).
indications and directions, which
At the end of the first round of lessons, more than 500 participants received
is why we have created the «Ma-
their Maestro Salumiere diploma, which certifies their professionalism in no un-
ialino d’argento» (Silver Piglet)
certain terms. The end result was extremely gratifying for the course promoters:
course, and the subsequent ma-
this highly specialised and extremely distinctive training is Levoni’s effective re-
nual.»
sponse to the pervasive uniformity of the large-scale retail trade.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
LEVONI AND THE WORKS OF MAURIZIO GALIMBERTI
A PORTRAIT OF SALAMI
MONICA GALASSI
M
aurizio Galimberti is a world famous photographer. His Polaroid mosaics are collectors items, celebrities commission his portraits, his works (including a collection of books on big cities the likes of New York, Venice, Berlin and - soon to be published - Milan) are collected, catalogued and conserved in a
specially created archive (Archivio NordEst); students at the Domus Academy and Istituto Italiano di fotografia (Italian Institute of Photography) flock to his seminars, whilst specialists and photo buffs alike never miss his creative photography workshops. In 2002, during one of these courses, Galimberti shot a series of photos of
POLAROID Born in Como in 1956, Galimberti started out using traditional analogue film before his passion/ obsession for Polaroid took hold in 1983; he made the switch because he couldn’t stand the wait to see how the photos turned out, and also because he had always been afraid of the dark in the darkroom.
Levoni cured meats: mortadella, “Napoli” and “Romagnola” sausage, and Levonetto, Hungarian and fennel salami all featured in a collage that was later published as a calendar. On a set in Calabria, the artist described how the project came about, telling how shortly after meeting Marella and Nicola they invited him to do a workshop in Foiano della Chiana, Arezzo; thinking that it would be interesting to work together, he asked them to sponsor the event. His instincts were right: they accepted eagerly and had a hamper full of goodies sent to him along with carte blanche on what to do with them. «It had been more than 10 years since my last still life, but they had such an intelligent and unimposing approach that I began to think I could make an exception». Galimberti had in fact started out in the ‘90s doing still life for Vogue but the many constraints of the fashion industry made him decide to move away from this field. «I’m a realist, I thrive on spontaneity: I found it really hard to work on predefined sets that had been drawn up beforehand, with troops of make-up artists, hairdressers, reams of project files and such painstaking preparations. I can’t photograph a preconception; my photos come from a gut feeling, based on how I’m feeling at a certain time. That’s how I manifest the way I am, how I want to get inside the salami in that exact moment, for example». So the meats are not “air-brushed” by Home Economist the way they normally are for advertising? «Oh, definitely not: they were ripe and wholesome, and at the end of the course we literally demolished them. It wasn’t an easy task (making them look mouth-watering and moreish in just one shot) but we managed by focusing on the fun aspect.” Galimberti’s unique technique is the product of a variety of influences, from Futurism to Dadaism, Surrealism and Cubism. “We managed to inject rhythm and movement into objects that are by nature immobile». Didn’t you alter them just a tiny bit? «For me there is no post-production; computers distort the original inspiration of the photographer and destroy the fantasy of the observer. An image must ask questions and give no answers; otherwise it is lifeless and uninspiring, incapable of making an impression: on our eyes and on our memories. That’s why I’ve never tried digital photography and always stuck with Polaroid: every photo has to be just right with an instant film, just like a penalty kick in injury time». How was the workshop at Foiano organized? «In the morning I would set the scene then create a mosaic right away; immediately after, the students would start taking photos to create their own personal interpretation of the selected subject». The end result was twelve jigsaw pictures made up of scores of mini-images (Galimberti has used up to 300 instant photos in other more complex works); the mosaics reproduced selected objects, from sausages to salami or mortadella: watching them I saw, for the first time, that the joy of what they were seeing was more than the anticipation of what they could be tasting.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
THE THIRD GENERATION
From the ’70s to today with Paolo, Zechi and Mario Aldo and Lino’s sons take over, bringing innovation, increasing business and launching some famous adverts MONICA SCIALFA
T
he third generation took over in 1969: the Levonis at the helm are now Paolo, Ezechiello, known as Zechi (Aldo’s sons) and Mario
(Lino’s son), with respective roles in farming and production, sales and communication management, deliveries and raw hams. The three set to work by devising some new recipes: in the ’70s they make traditional mortadella more delicate and digestible. They set up the new butcher’s Mec Carni in 1976 in Marcaria (Mantua), in 1991 they open the ham-producing plant in Lesignano de’ Bagni for the production of the famous Prosciutto Crudo di Parma DOP (Parma ham PDO), in 1995 they open the ham-producing plant in San Daniele del Friuli for the production of the PDO ham of the same name and finally in 2001 the company Suisì (in Mezzago, Monza Brianza) that specialises in fresh meat and offers service of the highest quality.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
NON HAN MAI FATTO MALE... In 1995 Levoni appears on TV with its first adverts. The jingle continued with “...Levoni manda al mare la moda alimentare!” (“Levoni has no time for food fads”).
They promote advertising with the historic “Fame da lupi” (which could be translated as “Hungry as a Wolf”) billboard campaign. In 1995 the first TV advert airs with the ever popular Lino Banfi, specifically chosen as the face of the campaign due to his Puglian origins as a tribute to the close relationship between the company and the southern regions, and Puglia in particular. In 1998 the jingle went on air that everyone still associates with Levoni: “Non han mai fatto male tre fette di salame…”, which roughly translates as “A few slices of salami never hurt anyone”. Thanks to these kind of initiatives the third generation helped make the brand famous with a wider public, as well as increasing business to heights just below current levels: 170 products, 230 employees, 5,000 delicatessens in its portfolio, 90 agents in Italy, exports to 18 foreign countries (including Belgium, France, Germany, Great Britain, Greece, The Netherlands, Switzerland, South Africa, USA, Venezuela). Paolo, in the company canteen, lists the “misunderstood” ideas of the past with amused satisfaction: pure beef salami, designed for those who can’t eat pork products for religious reasons, eventually only in production for ten years; “mirtadella”, seasoned as it was originally with myrtle berries and with an intense flavour; würstel (frankfurters), launched on the market well before competitor bran-
MARIO LEVONI
PAOLO LEVONI
EZECHIELLO LEVONI
ds, and the Fido brand of dog food (subsequently sold) launched when people didn’t yet pay too much attention to their pets’ diet when shopping. In 2011 the fourth generation arrived: Daria (the
first person from outside the Levoni family on the board of di-
first woman in the family at the helm), Nicola (the youngest, Chai-
rectors).
rman since 2008), Aldo (who looks after the butcher’s, Mec Carni,
These descendants have the same passion for their work
and the fresh meat company), Marella (coincidentally born on the
as their predecessors, to whom they turn to for advice and
same date as her great-grandfather Ezechiello, on 27 November)
opinions, or simply just to hear interesting stories about the
and Alceo Zanotti (the husband of Paolo’s youngest daughter, the
family.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
A PERSONAL TALE
THE CUSTOMER IS ALWAYS RIGHT ANDREA VITALI*
S
hopkeeper Gasperino Salvini just
ly care anymore. He’d hung up a nice big
on a Saturday and splurge on 2oz of one
didn’t care anymore. He was, by now, a sa-
sign on the door: “Business for Sale”. And
salami and 2oz of another. You knew she
tisfied man ...Thirty-five years behind the
what a business it was! There was going
had guests every now and then, but they
meat counter. Three houses built: one for
to be no negotiating on the price, take it
certainly didn’t eat much. Those 2oz sales
his wife and himself, and one for each of
or leave it, his shop was a gold mine...and
were important nevertheless. If you take
his sons (a surveyor and an accountant).
he could see a windfall coming his way. He
care of the pennies, then the pounds take
Both paid in cash on the nail, every penny,
and his old dear were going to enjoy that
no mortgage.
money, take a trip, maybe even a cruise.
He had a healthy bank account, so
And let’s be clear about it, he’d told her,
healthy that if he’d ever decided to move
the children were to get their eyes off it.
it the bank manager would have been
They wouldn’t even be getting a sniff of
pained to see it go. He’d been the first fa-
it. Even if they had to force themselves to
mily in town to have a colour television...
become holiday-makers, he and his wife
and not just one but two: one in the living
were going to spend whatever they made
room and one in the bedroom. Last but
from the sale.
care of themselves. And before you know it you could even become a millionaire. They might have had a giggle about those 2oz orders afterwards, Salvini and his wife. That is, if the good lady Corseri hadn’t also hastened to add (from her first time in the shop) that, being from Mantua, the rest of the year she shopped at Spaccarelli, prize delicatessen and pride of the city. Salvini
not least, totting up some figures with the
“As long as the Good Lord gives
had seen it. Or rather, he’d once had a
accountant at the beginning of this year,
us the time to enjoy the fruits of a hard-
peep from outside on a hot Sunday at the
he’d had a lovely surprise: both he and
working life,” he used to say every other
start of the summer, after he’d been round
his wife (his “old dear”) could retire. It
day to whoever was in the shop. But you
the Palazzo Te and visited the historical
was just peanuts, a shopkeeper’s pension
could tell from his tone, the real trouper
city centre. He was there on a coach trip
was nothing to write home about. All the
that he was, there was no doubt in his
with his blood donor group, a social ex-
same, he liked the idea that he could have
mind that the Good Lord would give him
change organized with the Mantua group.
one, just like any other honest worker: it
all the time he needed. The good Salvini
To tell the truth, his sole reason for going
was like a seal of approval, a diploma, a
enjoyed spending it like that, from behind
was to see this much-lauded delicatessen.
promotion, a medal for valour even. In all
the counter of his shop. He would while
Otherwise, he actually preferred to rest on
honesty, he thought, his good lady and he
away the time daydreaming about the fu-
a Sunday, spend some time at home, en-
really deserved a medal for having opened
ture, counting the days until the end of the
joy his garden, snoring like a foghorn in
up at 7am and shut up shop at 8pm day
year, when one day a certain Adelma Cor-
front of either of his two colour televisions.
and night for thirty five years, for having
seri came into the shop, one of the many
It was a fine shop, he had to admit, a real
put up with demands for cooked this and
holidaymakers who flocked to the lake in
swanky place. Legs of ham hanging from
cured that, for silently cursing them all but
the summer.
the ceiling, mustard in tubs, all shiny and
never, ever letting it show. So the customer is always right?
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
THE AUTHOR *Born in 1956 in Belluno where he currently works as a GP. His last book is “La zia Antonia sapeva di menta”
Oh my goodness, Madam Corseri!
tidy. There had to be at least four or five
If all his customers had been like her,
people working there. All ready to spring
According to whom? Whoever said it,
Salvini would’ve had to work for another
into action! What he didn’t understand
Salvini the shopkeeper used to think, had
thirty five years. What did she buy? A mi-
though, was how their salamis could taste
never done this job, and knew absolutely
serly 2oz of coppa, prosciutto, mortadella
better than his, what divine intervention
nothing about it. But then he didn’t real-
or bresaola. She’d go to town sometimes
was involved?
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
The difference in the mortadella was all about personality: the Mantua one didn’t attack the palate, perhaps because it contained less spices. You could eat a couple of slices quite easily without ruining the taste of the dishes that followed. Last but not least, the salami cotto (cooked or smoked) was ever so close to being judged equal. So close, but so far though. The Mantua salami won on points of course, as the slices were so royally sliced, every one identical and perfectly proportionate. For some obscure reason, this just made it smell superior. Perhaps, Salvini thought, it’s all in the presentation. With her nose in the air as she was accustomed to entering, Madam Corseri didn’t notice the ‘for sale’ sign. As she came in without even closing the door, Salvini felt his wife glaring at him. It was like Because right from her first time she
His cured ham was the first victim.
daggers pouring out pure, open hostility.
stepped into his shop, five or six years ago,
Before she bought any, 2oz and not a jot
He turned to look at her. His old wife was
Madam Corseri had made a point of pas-
more, Madam Corseri wanted to smell it.
already flushed in the face, and it was no-
sing judgement. Even if there were other
Not just once, but twice, three times even.
thing to do with the menopause. He gave
customers in the shop, she made it sound
Then the judgement would come: the
her a reassuring wink, he’d understood,
like he was selling second class goods.
Mantua one was more fragrant, conjec-
he wasn’t stupid after all. But with a sha-
She used to speak in such categorical to-
turing that it was probably because their
ke of the head, he gestured to her to stay
nes, and with such a glowering expression
slices were finer, like silk, so fine they just
calm. It was his turn. As if to affirm that the
that she would really get on his good la-
melted in your mouth. When Madam Cor-
long-awaited moment had come, he level-
dy’s nerves.
seri finally left the shop, leaving behind
led a finger quite firmly at his own chest. “Me!” Salvini, the avenger.
But he kept quiet, head down, accep-
her an array of bewildered faces, even
ting everything, the customer is always
Salvini himself had a sniff. The problem
He greeted Madam Corseri. With the
right after all. More than once, his wife
with the cooked ham was the consistency.
same enthusiasm as ever, as if it was just
asked if she could get rid of the loud-
According to Madam Corseri, the Mantua
another day and another welcoming smile
mouth, tell her that she was welcome to
one didn’t fray, when you opened the par-
for all and sundry, no matter what, the cu-
go back to Mantua to do her shopping! But
cel, each slice came away easily, no trou-
stomer is always right! Well, he’d show her
Salvini urged her to keep calm, as the right
ble at all, one after the other. It was like
this time! He didn’t care anymore, he had
time would come along sooner or later. He
flicking through a book with pages made
three houses, a healthy bank account and
was sure.
of rice paper, do you know that Salvini?
two colour televisions! They didn’t need
So it went, summer after summer, she
The butcher turned a deaf ear, he didn’t
her 2oz portions anymore!
just kept picking fault with Salvini’s sala-
know anything about books and he didn’t
He just had to decide what he was
mis. There wasn’t one she didn’t have a
care for rice. The bresaola was a genuine
going to do. Should he give Madam
bad word to say about. If he’d been more
mystery. There was no explaining how
Corseri the time to order her usual two
of a literary type, Salvini the “salumiere”
on earth the Mantua one could be tastier,
ounces, slice it, wrap it and hand it over as
would have had enough material to put
especially as it was anything but a specia-
if it was such an honour to serve her, then
together a critical anthology. He’d never
lity from the valley. But nevertheless, bet-
announce at the till that he was going to
done it. He could have dictated it though,
ter it was, you just had to taste it. What’s
give it to her for nothing, he didn’t need
because the signora from Mantua’s com-
more, the one from down there deepened
her charity, or...or should he be plain bad-
ments had become imprinted on his mind.
in colour much more slowly.
mannered and order her to leave, to get
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
out of his face and find somewhere else to shop and never to come back. All the while, his wife was bubbling with rage. He could sense it, he could feel the electricity prickling and the anxiety growing for that long-awaited moment. There was fear too, fear that he would change his mind and back out of kicking her out. The queue was building up in the meantime. Courteous and dignified, Madam Corseri was eyeing up the cold cuts display. When he came face to face with her, Salvini hesitated for a second. It could have been fatal, as his old wife tried to use it to her advantage, pouncing with angry words ready to come tumbling out. If he hadn’t been so quick, she would’ve succeeded. But he managed to halt her outburst with a firm: “I’ll serve the Signora.” Salvini, the avenger. “Can I help you?” he said, adding “What would you like today?” deciding there and then on the noble gesture to dismiss any thought of ill-manners. Anything but, he would let her have an extra slice if push came to shove. His old wife was gritting her teeth and ringing her hands, ready to sprint to the meat to be sliced, just as soon as Madam Corseri issued her order. “Half a pound of ravioli.” Salvini
leaned
forward,
dum-
bfounded, as if he had misheard, a wary look on his face. Two bubbles of saliva burst at the corners of his old wife’s mouth. “Half a pound…” she murmured, glancing at her husband. Half a pound of ravioli, that’s some order. Well, when all was said and done, the summer had just started, there was still plenty time to get revenge. And so it was that the butcher and his good wife bid a joint “Goodbye, see you soon” to Madam Corseri as she left the shop with her packet tucked neatly under her arm.
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
I VITALI The pictures published on these pages are the work of painter Giancarlo Vitali. Previous page: Macellai. Above: Preoccupato per il futuro, Maiali and L’Onestà.
NOW ONE OF THE FIRM’S BIGGEST CUSTOMERS
Peck, where it all began
It was the founder of Milan’s legendary gourmet food and wine emporium who taught Ezechiello the trade and gave him the chance to start up a food business of his own. MONICA GALASSI
S
crolling through the list of
and jams, a cornucopia of seafood deli-
chiello was just ten years old and was
Levoni’s premier customer
cacies, cheeses from all corners of the
sent from Castelnuovo Rangone near
accounts, one address in particular will
country and, needless to say, salamis
Modena to perfect the art of salami
catch your eye, one that most people
in prime position. I can almost smell
making in Milan. The story goes that
would have no trouble recognizing: Via
the amazing aromas inviting me in and
it was here that he ran into one of the
Spadari 9, Milan. The Peck emporium...
savour the welcoming silence, courte-
most accomplished salami makers of
in a flash, the mind fills with images of
ous service and sophisticated interior:
those times, Francesco Peck from
spectacular window displays, dressed
a haven of peace and tranquillity in the
Prague, who was the first to introduce
up with Christmas or Easter scenes
heart of the city.
a speciality from his home country to
sculpted in cheese, butter or chocolate,
The name Peck also reminds me
Italy – Prague ham. Later he even ob-
elegant labels striking an elegant pose
of snatches of a story that Mario and
tained the royal seal of the Italian Royal
on the shelves, multicoloured tins of
Paolo once heard. The story goes
Family. The young Ezechiello became
traditional teas, a plethora of preserves
back to 1890 when forefather Eze-
an apprentice in Francesco’s workshop and one of the many things he learned
TASTE AND TRADITION Peck is spread out over three floors: the wine cellar in the basement, the delicatessen on the ground floor and café on the first floor
was smoking techniques. Later, this was to become a distinctive feature of his salamis, in particular his Hungarian salami that won a gold medal at the Great London Exhibition in 1913. In 1911, his mentor offered him the classic golden opportunity, deciding to abandon his premises in Precotto (probably near the villa that is still called Peck) and lease them to Ezechiello: the Levoni adventure was about to commence! A century later, the master charcutier’s name graces the list of customers of the company founded by his pupil: they had practically come full circle.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
SALES NETWORK AND LOGISTICS
«One of our strengths from the start» When your clients are the best delicatessens and butchers in Italy, sales agents and capillary distribution are crucial to success FEDERICA GIOVANNINI
A
hundred years of Le-
With our specialities and huge range
voni means history,
of highly diversified salamis, we co-
devotion and continuity. It means de-
ver the regional demands of almost
dication and passion for one’s job and
the whole of Italy, with products that
highlights the company vocation for
reflect the utmost in craftsmanship,
the all-important, crucial objective:
processed with care and using the
quality. «From our raw and cooked
strictest industrial checks and safety
hams, from mortadella to the most
procedures, and produced with the
Fassa and Val di Fiemme, using the
unusual salamis,” Alceo Zanotti says
same concern as in days gone by.»
ancient method of natural smoking
with pride, “our clients know that
When you discover that mountain
handed down by Ezechiello, you be-
they can rely on us for all their stock.
wood is still used today from Val di
gin to understand how in large companies what is history becomes tradition and a guarantee for the future. The history of Levoni is its people, who instil the affection and profound respect for the company that they have in the product they shape, package and finally distribute all around Italy: when the production process is over, a sales team of 150 multi-firm agents coordinated by their area managers work with passion and professionalism every day and in every Italian region, so that Levoni products are guaranteed and served as requested. For a producer
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
SALESFORCE In the top left photo, the Pitturi family, who have been with Levoni for three generations, the Cupelli family and our agent Lavini from Macerata. In the picture above, Area Manager Massimo Cenni and agents from Lazio and Sardinia. On the previous page agents from Puglia
that is proud of its uncompromising
This affection and sense of be-
that they call them “the Levonis”, as
quality and wide-ranging product
longing that every agent shows to-
agents will talk about the company
list, a highly specialised sales team
wards Levoni endures and becomes
wherever they go, bringing Levoni
is essential.
stronger year after year, and shows
products to the best charcuteries
«Our agents are the ones respon-
that the sales network is like a large
and delicatessens in Italy. Tradition
sible for Levoni’s success around
family that lives in every corner of
and innovation continue to meet and
Italy. They are exceptional, highly
Italy. Zanotti emphasises that «this
cross paths in the history of the “pi-
professional people, many of whom
is a sign of the strong bond and har-
glet with wings”. Decade after deca-
have been with us from the begin-
mony that the whole salesforce feels
de, at the same time as the growth
ning of their careers, and very of-
and that spreads through the emplo-
and capillarisation of the sales sy-
ten people with fathers who did the
yees too, and is testimony to the pri-
stem, the company has been able to
same job: people who identify so
de that Levoni quality inspires in the
rely on logistics processes being im-
much with Levoni that they consider
people that work there.»
plemented with its own vehicles and
it “their” company, and who congra-
In a hundred years, the faith and
drivers so that distribution to clients
tulate us on a new product, calling
confidence the company and the
is ever more punctual and efficient.
it “ours” or who call the company
sales network have in each other
There’s nowhere Levoni can’t reach,
at the end of the day to find out the
has also spread to the clients them-
and quality is the secret that for a
daily totals in terms of tons consig-
selves, who have such a close con-
hundred years has made the com-
ned and sold.»
nection with their representatives
pany successful.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
THE FOURTH GENERATION
A new century of Levonis The roles have been expertly allocated and follow the family tradition RICCARDO CERVELLI
A
s children, at a time when all the current regulations on safety in factories were not yet in force, they would play outdoors
and do their homework and then often take a look around the plant. One of the representatives of the fourth generation of the Castellucchio business, Aldo Levoni, recalls: «For us the family and the company were more or less the same thing. This meant we got to know all the people well, whether they were business partners or employees.» The members of the fourth generation that are now at the helm of Levoni have breathed the company since the day they were born. On the one hand this has led them to come to love the business founded by their greatgrandfather Ezechiello and on the other to take up their current working role in the company: one of the Levonis’ fundamental choices was that the family should directly deal with company operations. Today the three members of
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
the board, Aldo and Nicola Levoni and their brother-in-law Alceo Zanotti work together on and deal with many various aspects. For example Nicola and Aldo play an active role in the main category associations: Nicola is currently the chairman of the Institute for the Promotion of Italian Cured Meats and is a board member of the Prosciutto di San Daniele Consortium; while Aldo is a board member of the Prosciutto di Parma Consortium. There is also much collaboration on the Italian and international sales front: Alceo and Nicola head all the company’s commercial activities, with the former in particular overseeing Italian clients, and the latter developing foreign ones. Besides the three members of the board, another two family members have managerial roles: Daria manages the Research and Development sector, while Marella deals with all communications, external relations and press office activities. Thanks to their different talents and the very different fields they studied, all five help broaden the company’s horizons. Just as crucial is the contribution of managers from different parts of the country, from historic ones like Diego Paoli, to those taken on more recently, and the contribution of everyone who works enthusiastically for the company by giving it their all.
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
ALDO LEVONI
NICOLA LEVONI
The son of Ezechiello, (his father had the same name as Levoni’s founder), 42 years old. Graduating in Management Engineering from the Polytechnic of Milan has provided him with the technical and economic skills needed for his daily work.
Son of Mario, 40 years old, he is chairman of the board of directors of Levoni Spa. He joined the company after graduating in Law at the University of Bologna, and immediately began dealing with foreign markets, managing to combine his passion for travel with the ambition of taking Levoni quality to the rest of the world.
ALCEO ZANOTTI
DARIA LEVONI
MARELLA LEVONI
Paolo’s son-in-law, born on 25 January 1966. He has always worked in the commercial sector, and is now the owner of food companies in Eastern Europe.
Paolo’s daughter, 46 years old, and the first woman to have a management role with the company, after graduating in Agriculture. She deals with research and development, and the ham-producing plants.
Nicola’s sister, 44 years old, she is the only who did not work with the family company straightaway. After completing her Arts degree she worked for the press office of two publishers before arriving at the Castellucchio offices, where she deals with communications and external relations.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
LEVONI ABROAD
A hundred years of quality around the world A journey through time and local cultures, discovering the philosophy of Italian cured meats in foreign lands FEDERICA GIOVANNINI
L
evoni’s centenary is just a tick of the clock away.
fectly preserved product. Handwritten files discovered in the
The past century is destined to bring an even
company archives tell how even back in 1934 a batch of
more prosperous future as the seeds sown at the beginning
cured meats heading for the United States travelled im-
of the 20th century come to fruition at the beginning of the
mersed in lard, which preserved the softness and flavour,
21st thanks to new ideas and outlooks in the food sector,
and were transported in wooden crates with an outer metal
while at the same time the values of days gone by are upheld.
layer. Time, which has never been as profitable or providen-
This era, when Levoni opened Italy’s and the world’s doors
tial as it has throughout Levoni’s history, combined with the
revealing its top quality cured meats is not so far away from
constant interaction with new cultures, has naturally brought
today: the triumph of Levoni’s Hungarian salami at the Inter-
new methods of preserving cured meats with new systems
national Modern Arts and Industry Exhibition in London
of refrigeration that meant products arrived in perfect condi-
where a very young Ezechiello emerged victorious against
tion as well as being able to present them with cuts and tex-
all the local gentlemen’s predictions, was justification for the
tures that satisfied local needs. Each country has its own
great passion and commitment that the at that time small
cultural baggage. Each culture has its own inherent taste
cured meat producers out in the sticks had shown in produc-
that Levoni fully respects and cares for, sometimes making it
ing a salami that was so good it made pigs fly. This image,
the ideal point of departure for innovation, an opportunity:
which has accompanied the entire Levoni adventure, carry-
therefore, interpreting the demands of the senses of smell,
ing it on the wings of success today as back then, has re-
taste and even touch of Northern European consumers, who
mained inextricably associated with the company’s label, re-
were important importers even at the beginning of the last
minding and communicating to the world that wherever the
century, an experiment was made to lower the temperature
piglet goes flying on products to far-off lands, that tradition is
of the meat to obtain a “rice grain” grind, a feature of Milano
what connects the company to its past. This is like the cured
salami. Was that perhaps where it came from? This is how a
meats of today, as the brand wings its way around the globe
simple piece of information, communicated by the capillary
and determinedly pushes ever further, with its impeccable
network of agents, distributors and importers around the
safety records and perfect sanitary, institutional and busi-
globe, who take Levoni excellence from border to border,
ness guarantees, collecting ever more miles on the way be-
reaches the production site of Castellucchio. Here every
fore arriving at its destination where it will respect the tradi-
item is processed without the use of chemical additives, or
tions and the alimentary demands of the cultures it faces.
lactose or gluten, of which the company is rightly proud in
Every single item in fact, checked and literally grown by
the whole of Europe: it is no surprise that in Austria, which is
staff, who in the production stages ensure they receive all the
particularly loyal to Levoni, its cured meats are given to nurs-
necessary care and attention, ends its journey in the same
ery children, as it meets the alimentary needs of adults and
top quality condition it set off in. This is how Levoni prod-
children alike. Levoni is taking this same philosophy that
ucts, from the cycle that begins with the farming stage and
tends to make clients one big family even further afield,
terminates with the delivery of the end product, can meet the
where the “sandwich program” is taking off as a food style in
extremely varied demands of their clients, who receive a per-
Canada. This is how bread and cured meat, a classic par ex-
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
cellence that can be tried in numerous versions, becomes the
the products from Castellucchio have reached the pinnacles
ideal lunch: simple, genuine and innovative. New experi-
of luxury and appear on the table of the most luxurious
ments, the search for a particular flavour, and the design of
chains of hotels, inspiring passion and pleasure for Italy in
new packaging occupy and honour the hundreds of souls
countries that may seem quite exotic and culturally distant.
who, day in day out, dedicate themselves to keeping and im-
One big family, that Levoni has seen grow of its own accord,
proving Levoni’s strong heart that is proud of its hundred
as it embraces and wins over ever more countries around the
years in business without abandoning its principles. All you
world, united by a unique value. A family that has spread like
have to do is taste it to understand the passion that goes into
wildfire, taking its rightful place in delicatessens, restaurants
every single stage of Levoni’s cured meats, and to realise
and luxury hotels thanks to the role of intermediaries, friend-
why products of such a high quality have managed to reach
ships, and Italian and international chefs, who share ideas,
the furthest corners of the globe. Levoni has even arrived in
interests and novelties with others as they wander from
what might seem the hardest cultures to reach, with a genu-
country to country. Levoni has pitched its flag everywhere, a
ine product and the desire to reveal the flavours and textures
sign of the quality and experience that a century of making
of a historical tradition. Just think of countries like Oman, the
quality cured meats consists of, and is appreciated and en-
United Arab Emirates, Lebanon, Indonesia: in these places
joyed even where fashion would dictate an entirely different
ZE R O
kind of food being served at the table. In beautiful Paris where clients are friends, even before they are owners of charcuteries, they can taste the product and appreciate all its various subtleties, until the
GLOBETROTTER Wherever in the world it may be, if Italian cured meats can be imported there, there will be at least one of Levoni’s 200 specialities. To the left is an unused draft for the brand that dates back to the 1940s
flavour truly wins over the most demanding of palates. Here where trends are set in the five-star hotels, the top quality butchers and the recherché delicatessens, the sales network becomes more compact, creating a chessboard network of contacts, distribution and deliv-
the meats with painstaking care, as their training has taught them, wearing a Levoni apron that takes minds back to times past. Just at that moment, as the clock’s hands stop for a moment in the fifties, Parma ham, Napoli and
eries that stretches from the Côte d’Azur to Normandy. Even
Milano salami, and Mortadella began to arrive in Venezuela
across the English Channel in Great Britain where super-
and Uruguay in the best gourmet shops and hotels, on the
markets reign in distribution terms, Levoni stands out by
crest of the wave of beach tourism. Today the New Continent
winning over, sometimes thanks to serendipitous encoun-
is a challenge that Levoni accepts with its usual determina-
ters, the prestigious and ever-busy Harrods and Partridges.
tion, with the ambition of conquering a South America that is
Other encounters may occur at sector trade fairs, where in-
rediscovering itself and looks forward to seeing that product
formation circulates without formality: one sits at a table,
that already appears on many American tables and that
tastes some San Daniele ham sipping on a glass of wine in a
arouses the interest of expert charcutiers, confirmed gour-
setting that is warm and welcoming and where human inter-
mets and connoisseurs of the good life, of good food and Ita-
action is the mission. The hospitality at the stand makes you
ly: salami. The product has always been the brand’s “flag-
feel at home. Sharing hellos as you taste the products is part
ship”, reinterpreted in numerous different versions seasoned
of the warmth that has taken Levoni to foreign fields, in more
with spices and natural flavourings, and lends itself perfectly
than fifty countries that have adopted it as a symbol of Italian
to the chopping boards of the best restaurants in the world,
flavour and excellent cuisine. Cold countries such as Russia
where Michelin-starred chefs become ambassadors for a
and Poland have been refining their taste in cured meats for
slice of Italy. From the monumental hotels of Singapore,
twenty years now, frenetically offering them in the best res-
Hong Kong, Dubai and Thailand, it returns to the stores
taurant chains, large department stores and on airlines or
closer to home and in typical German butchers shops, from
opening small delicatessens where salamis and sausages
high class Italian restaurants in Australia it takes a step back
hang from the ceiling as they would in Italy. It’s never too late
in time to small, characteristic Flemish delicatessens: the
to recreate the intimacy of a delicatessen of times gone by,
most diverse clients increasingly choose Levoni products,
where the human touch is central and owners chat with cus-
because every cured meat is a piece of craft history; because
tomers as their flavoursome meats are being wrapped, some-
it is certified and checked in every phase of curing and right
times together with some cheese form the store a little fur-
up to when it is delivered; because tradition is experience
ther along, directly from the hands of the person who slices
and the future is quality. All over the world.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
MEC CARNI
More than just a butcher’s! Aldo Levoni tells the story of how and where its meat is produced ROBERTO CATANIA
T
o better understand Le-
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
fromCastellucchio: Mec Carni.
-as the business grew the company
voni’s one hundred years
Aldo Levoni, a member of the
needed to find a new site, partly
of history we have to look at all
board of directors of the company
for environmental reasons as the
those small and large changes that
and manager of the subsidiary
transit of animals through the town
are part of its past; such as changes
Mec Carni, explains: «Once upon a
centre was beginning to cause prob-
in the role of slaughtering, the real
time all the stages in the pork pro-
lems and required adequate clean-
feather in the cap today of the “Sil-
duction process were carried out
ing up after».
ver Piglet” brand. The course of his-
at the same site where the cured
This is why it was decided to
tory has turned a process that was
meats were produced: on Monday
create a centre of excellence out-
mainly a craft trade at the beginning
the animals were slaughtered, and
side the town – excellence in terms
of the last century carried out by
the following day the meat process-
of volumes as well as in terms of
individual producers or butchers,
ing began. This involved all Levoni
processing methods and hygiene
into a highly structured process,
employees taking part in both ac-
and sanitary standards. A few num-
initially within the company plant
tivities and having to adapt to the
bers will help show the extent of
itself, then, since 1976, in its special
different roles this entailed. Then,
the work of Mec Carni today: 250
centre located seven kilometres
thirty five years ago, it all changed
employees work to bring around
ZE R O
14,000 units onto the market each
quired, first ham, then neck, loin,
precedes processing. This is why all
week, with a volume of meat that
shoulder, lard and so on: the aim is
the animals that arrive at Mec Carni
doesn’t just satisfy Levoni’s produc-
to get the meat chilled as soon as
are analysed for both their quality,
tion needs (around 30% of the total)
possible to ensure that its charac-
as well as their economic return,
but also other important brands in
teristics remain unchanged. In fact
and are then classified according
the cured meat world.
we are able to have all the cuts in
to the suppliers’ evaluation tables:
Levoni however holds the ma-
cold storage within the space of an
the ones that receive the highest
jority of the stocks and this obvi-
hour», the manager is keen to point
points stay on, the “worst” ones are
ously has an effect on processing
out.
replaced.
standards, such as genetics, farm-
This stage also involves the se-
At the same time Levoni works
ing and quality control, as well as
lection of the most prestigious cuts.
with farms managed by Mec Carni
in terms of slaughtering, where
This is where the experience and
where all factors that may influence
production control means that the
the eye of the employee comes into
the quality and quantity of the meat
company can obtain the best pos-
play: they must be able to identify
sible meat before beginning to pro-
all the visual factors (such as the
cess it. This is why the work that
colour of the meat and the thick-
Mec Carni carries out runs to a
ness of the fat) that make the differ-
strict schedule.
ence when top quality cured meats
Aldo Levoni explains: «The
are to be produced. The end result
most critical stage is in the slaugh-
depends largely on the inherent
tering line, where the animals are
quality of the meat. The selection of
divided into sides of pork, cleaned
the suppliers is therefore the most
and sliced depending on the cut re-
important aspect of the process that
PDO HAMS To produce Parma and San Daniele hams strict rules must be followed concerning the animals’ weight, genetics and age
can be checked: the genetics types of pigs are studied, for example, as well as their food and the farmer’s “hand”. «It is precisely the combination of these factors that determines the quality of the raw material», Aldo Levoni points out. «This is why we have chosen the route of company-owned farms, an investment that also improves relations with our suppliers. Comparing ownbred animals with those that arrive from the outside allows us to give precious advice to farmers. If someone sends a pig that is too thin, for example, we can offer the right suggestions to remedy the problem». There is a further point to consider: how animals are treated before they are slaughtered. This doesn’t just concern animal rights groups, but also the regulation policies of all those countries, especially in the European Union, where the wellbeing of animals used in the food chain is monitored. «This is a subject we have paid great attention to for many years», comments Aldo Levoni, «partly also because of the quality of the raw material. An animal in good health means better quality meat, which is why we prohibit the use of growth-enhancing drugs and we guarantee that animals are not mistreated, including during transportation».
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
NON HAN MAI FATTO MALE...
Communicating with taste It’s not easy to get across the message of the art and flavour of good cured meats. Here’s how Levoni gave its marketing and advertising a very unusual flavour ROBERTO CATANIA
«N
on han mai fatto male tre fette di
to get the message across is through the product itself.
salame…» (“A few slices of salami
From exhibitions at the Triennale and Palazzo Reale in Mi-
never hurt anyone”). All Italians will remember the very
lan to the Literature Festival of Mantua, the company has
first Levoni adverts. Part of the hundred-year history of
brought its products to settings where people can taste its
the brand with the Silver Piglet also consists of the many
products, perhaps as they sip on a glass of top quality wine.
successful advertising campaigns that began under the
And while on the subject of cured meats and wines, in
guidance of the third generation of Levonis. Television,
2012 Levoni will be partner of the wine guide, Vinibuoni
radio, press, billboards: all-encompassing advertising, with
d’Italia, which will feature a section dedicated to the com-
the invaluable aid of some exceptional names (from Lino
pany with suggestions for which cured meats go best with
Banfi to Renato Pozzetto), that took Levoni into every Ital-
which Italian wines. There are also initiatives for its “small-
ian home.
er” public: Segni d’Infanzia, the international art and the-
Marella Levoni, today communications head of the
atre festival for children which Levoni has sponsored since
family company, points out: «In all our campaigns we have
its inception, will also feature tastings for children where
attempted to get across the pleasure of eating a good cured
the Levoni philosophy will be explained to the children:
meat, and reminding people of the best delicatessens that
the passion for genuine flavours, knowledge of the prod-
are the core of our distribution. This is particularly evident
uct, and the culture of combining its products with other
in the billboard campaigns, which guide customers, poten-
foods. «Children today are used to eating lots of things,
tial ones included, towards our points of sale».
often totally unaware of what they’re eating», explains
Everyone knows that Levoni cured meats are “Quelli
Marella Levoni, «which is why we need to encourage them
Buoni” (the Good Ones), a slogan that the company has
to choose high quality products». Mention must also be
consistently used. But new channels are needed to express
made of the work supporting points of sales, together with,
the Levoni message of taste and a passion for quality. «The
in recent times, promoting the concept of sustainability.
value of our production processes, which is also what differ-
From the “Good Ones” to the “Eco-friendly Good Ones” it is
entiates us from our competitors, encourages us to look for
just a short step: some of the most important products that
new outlets for our message to explain the values concealed
delicatessens use– from the paper to wrap sliced meats
within our products», emphasises Marella Levoni. She con-
to shopping bags and biros – are produced with a nod to-
tinues, «Anyone who tries our meats knows the difference».
wards responsible consumption: recycled or sustainable
This is why the decision was made to offer tastings at
materials (e.g. from FSC forests), black and white printing
events, shows and festivals, as if to show that the best way
and water-based inks.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
TRADITION AND TASTE
Levoni in the kitchen with the great chefs When the quality is as high as Levoni’s, good flavours proudly find their way onto tables around the world, perhaps prepared by some of the most creative Michelin-starred chefs FEDERICA GIOVANNINI
A LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
hundred years of his-
time, binding father to son, tying
through the passage of changing
tory
down
quality and guarantees in an ever
times, changing faces and improve-
through four generations: a ball of
tighter knot. This is how Levoni has
ments in terms of texture and flavour.
thread consisting of tastes, flavours
grown from its humble beginnings
Throughout all this what remains,
and textures that unwinds over
to become an international business,
and has never been lost sight of, is
ZE R O
handed
azapassion for flavour andileating well, mai perdersi lungo cammino, aè truly Italian prideil since l’amore per ilsource gusto of e per buon time immemorial sameorgoglio passion mangiare, quello– the stesso that brought to the tables che Levoni il Paesehas tiene alto da sempre e of the Italian Levoni people.hanno accompache i salumi It’ssulle no surprise that when families gnato tavole degli italiani. get Non together or people go proprio on trips or stupisce come in participate food and wine tastings, occasioni diinritrovi in famiglia, viagthe of thread that represents gi diball piacere e degustazioni si siano Levoni has quelle woventrame a webche of venute aquality ricamare contacts that stretches as far as the hanno permesso all’eccellenza Leantipodes of Italy. The same voni di tessere una rete di journey contatti leads chefs and connoisseurs to hunt che oggi si estende fino agli antipodi for goodUncured meats d’Italia. viaggio che in ha Australia, condotto in lively, modern Sydney, in restauchef ed estimatori dei salumi “quelli rants Ventuno, nella where chef Robuoni”like in Australia, giovane ed berto makes coldquali rice ilcakes evolutaTaffuri Sidney, in locali VenSUPPORTERS TESTIMONIAL Gennaro Contaldo from the restaurant del ristorante “Passione”. Above: Jamie Olivier Oliver with In alto: Jamie con Nicola Nicola Levoni Levoni
wrapped in San Daniele Ham,Taffuri or the tuno, in cui lo chef Roberto multi award-winning Trattoria Signoconfeziona sformati di riso freddo in relli, where has di literally been cartoccio dicuisine Prosciutto San Danieturned into a “study of the relationle, o nella pluripremiata Trattoria Siship between and food”. ha gnorelli, che culture della gastronomia These are fatto great«uno connoisseurs of letteralmente studio della Italian cuisine who have taken the relazione tra cultura e cibo».
shape of Bologna Mortadella licati della Mortadella Bologna with con
una selezione salumiand Levoni va ad large menu of di antipasti pizzas.
Pistachio soft morbidezza Corona cooked Pistacchioand e dalla del
insaporire la lunga di antipasti e Unravelling thelista thread that ties
ham, as inèrestaurants Cotto such Corona: il caso deiopened risto-
pizzeCastellucchio che la casa propone. the tradition to more
in Singapore by recognisably Italranti aperti a Singapore e dei nomi
il gomitolo cheworld, lega thanSrotolando fifty countries around the
ian like Osvaldo Forlino, the che names li rappresentano, inequivocabil-
la tradizione a ormai we arrive in castellucchiese Hong Kong, where Le-
Michelin-starred chefOsvaldo and owner of mente italiani, come Forli-
più dicured cinquanta al mondo, il voni meatspaesi appeared on the
the recently opened restaurant No no, chef stellato Michelin e proprie-
filo conduttore del sophisticated sapore conduce tables of the most lo-
Menu, since January booktario delwhere recentissimo ristorante No
presto ad Hongmore Kong,than doveten i salumi cal restaurants years
equator, just adal short hopdell’Opera, from the “pochi passi” teatro
ing hasche become essential to sample Menu, da gennaio ad oggi ha or-
Levoni arrivano da più di dieci Isola, anni, ago, such as at the panoramic
Opera House, arrive insi Asia, risalendo verso we l’Equatore, var-
true Italian and Valmai visto la sophistication, prenotazione diventare
insaporendo le tavole diwith alcuni tra i where the friendship Gianni
where taste for rice and is cano i aconfini asiatici, dovespices la pre-
entino Valtulina, whose restaurant of un must per poter assaggiare le raf-
più lussuosi ristoranti locali, quali il Caprioli began, travel chef to person-
now joinedper by riso a taste for theèperfect dilezione e spezie ormai
the same name proposes aeselection finatezze d’importazione, Valenti-
panoramico Isola, in cui è nataExecul’amialities such as Gianni Agnelli,
complement in the full and delicate affiancata dagli accordi pieni e de-
of meats to complement the no Levoni Valtulina, nel cui omonimo locale
ciziaChef con Gianni Caprioli, in travel chef tive and consultant the field
art Si of tratta eatingdiwell to estimatori far-off shores, grandi deland applied it to their menusportaand la cucina nostrana che hanno the of their restaurants and to ladesign buona tavola lontano, nei menu wine bars, which stand ed outenotefrom e nel design di ristoranti the localemergono, colours and architecture che che per la loro italiafor purelyeItalian flavours and nitàtheir nei sapori nell’atmosfera, tra moods. back towards i colori Heading e le architetture locali. the A
NOUVELLE CUISINE Paul Bocuse, uno dei onepiù of grandi chef France’s d’Oltralpe è greatest chefs isuna grande big fan fanLevoni della of mortadella Levoni
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
CURED MEATS FIT FOR A CHEF SALUMI DA CHEF from“Ronda the “Ronda Locatelli” restaurant in the AtlantisThe ThePalm” Palm hotel in Dubai, with Nicola Levoni. Giorgio Locatelli del Locatelli” ristorante dell’hotel “Atlantis di Dubai, con Nicola Levoni. On the following page with chefNorbert NorbertKostner Kostner Nella pagina successiva conthe lo chef of restaurants. di personalità come Gianni Agnel-
Napoli Sausage, accompanied bypicsoLevoni, dal classico Milano alla
world serves and iinterprets Levoni norama orientale salumi Levoni li
Another name in the setli, Executive Chef of e note consulente nel
phisticated Tuscan, Umbrian, and of cante Salciccia Napoli Forte, accom-
cured emeats at his al restaurant serve interpreta ristoranteRonda Ron-
ting of Asia Michele Gulizzi, origicampo dellaisristorazione.
course Sicilian, pagnandoli con wines. raffinati vini toscani,
Locatelli, in the imperial Atlantis The da Locatelli, nell’imperiale Atlantis
nallySpicca, from Palermo, chef at inoltre, formerly nel panorama
Ande naturalmente mention mustsiciliani. be made too umbri
PalmPalm HoteldiinDubai. Dubai. The
the BucoMichele Restaurant, Sette Moma asiatico, Gulizzi, palermita-
of Indian Hemant Oberoi, personal E ancora non mancano di stupi-
Important, internationally faNomi importanti, di fama mon-
andd’origine, Giovanni’s New York, no giàAtrium chef al in Buco Restau-
chef to localHemant royals Oberoi, and heads of re l’indiano cuoco
mous molti names, whom per are diale, deimany quali ofemigrati
who now works at theeOpera Restaurant, al Sette Moma al Giovanni’s
state, as well as eExecutive Grand personale di reali capi di stato lo-
emigrants bringing a touch portare all’estero quel pizzicoofdiItaly ita-
rant of the ParkYork, Hyattora Saigon Hotel, Atrium di New approdato
Chef of the TajExecutive Mahal Palace & Chef Towcali, nonché Grand
with them that in just years lianità che in pochi anniasifew è trasfor-
an impressive five star all’Opera Restaurant del Vietnamese Park Hyatt
ers Taj in Mumbai, for which he per-a del Mahal Palace & Towers
has become a cornerstone of delthe mato nella colonna portante
hotel, where thanks to his kitchens, Saigon Hotel, imponente cinque
sonally selected the products to be Bombay, per il quale ha selezionato
places where have worked le strutture perthey cui hanno lavorato,-
the locals have developed a taste for stelle vietnamita che reinterpreta,
imported, or thei more Italian personalmente prodotti da soundimpor-
cooks who to travel, or travelcuochi per love passione e viaggiatori
Parmasue ham and Levoni salamis, nelle cucine, il gusto localefrom per
ing famous from tare, o il più Giorgio nostranoLocatelli, Giorgio Loca-
lers mestiere, who love otoviceversa. cook. per
the classic Milano to the hoti Strong il Prosciutto di Parma e per salami
Varese by birth, who inche thenel Asian telli, varesino di nascita, pa-
CINTA SENESE PIG MAIALE DI CINTA… But it’s not just Non soltanto glichefs chef, that ma appreciate theallevatori care and anche gli altri attention that Levoni riconoscono la the grandezza family puts into itslacured e l’attenzione che meat production – other famiglia Levoni mette nella farmers do too. Paolo Parisi, produzione dei suoi salumi. for example, famous for Paolo Parisi, per esempio, bringing del back and saving l’artefice recupero e del the Cinta Senese pig, di salvataggio del maiale doesn’t slaughter pigs in Cinta Senese, non his macella fauxsuini craftnei laboratories ithe propri laboratori that populate Tuscany, pseudo-artigianali di cuibut la in Mantua at the historicma, Toscana è rifornitissima, Levoni a questi,plants. preferisce il macello Here, in spite of stabilimenti di Mantova e gli industrialisation and the high production levels, there are
LEVON I 2 0 1 1 A N NO
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
della storica Levoni. still those who love this job so Qui, nonostante much that they would much l’industrializzazione e le rather have 200 of Paolo dimensioni raggiunte dalla Parisi’s pigs than a thousand produzione, c’è ancora chi of any other pig. ama a tal punto questo The meats produced by mestiere da are bloccare il Paolo Parisi also cured in macello di migliaia di maiali Mantua in old curing rooms al giorno, per macellare i 200 that are laden with history. maiali di Parisi. I salumi prodotti da Paolo Parisi stagionano, inoltre, a Mantova in vecchie celle di stagionatura cariche di storia.
A caseesemplare in point is Leonardo Caso quello di ConLeo-
ristorazione made up of èroutes, fatto di itineraries percorsi,and iti-
adepti gramme, come TheJamie Naked Oliver, Chef, che showdel
nerari, sometimes talvolta genuine vere e coincidences: proprie coin-
nuovo ing people stilehow ha fatto to cook un simply. programma
cidenze: just out to basta lunch un with pranzo a friend, con una
televisivo, Levoni The is linked NakedtoChef, the aFrench tutela
amico, passingun comment suggerimento, or word un of mouth passa-
della chef via cucina a curious senzaanecdote: fronzoli. it would
parola, and before ed ecco you che know in batter it you d’ocfind
appear Allo that chefBocuse, francesewho la stessa has been Le-
chio Sirio Sirio Maccioni, Maccioni, restaurateur ristoratore and e
voni maestro è legata to the dagreatest un curioso chefs aneddoin the
pilastro historic storico pillar ofdell’esclusivo the exclusive ristoLe
to: world, parereceived infatti che Levoni proprio mortadella Bocuse,
rante CirqueLe restaurant Cirque di New in New York, York, ritro-
che as a dei giftpiù from grandi Antonio al mondo and Nadia è sta-
vo a haunt dell’intero of thejet entire set americano, American jet si
to Santini, il maestro, owners abbia of ricevuto the famous in regares-
appassiona set, who is ai passionate salumi della aboutpianura cured
lo taurant una mortadella Dal Pescatore Levoni and dathat Antonio on a
Padana meats from e decide the Po di farne valley,piatto and forde-
eFrench Nadia TV Santini, programme titolari del on La rinomaCinq
te cides delle to proprie make it proposte the centregastronopiece of
to showed ristorante it off,Dal sliced Pescatore it and etasted che in it
miche, his ownfino dishes, a instaurare and in time con becomLevoni
occasione with his dining di una trasmissione companions, per helpla
un ingvero a friend e proprio of Levoni’s rapportothanks di amicito
Tv ing francese to spreadLathe Cinq Levoni l’avesse image “sfogand
zia the grazie go-between al tramite Miriam di Miriam Leonardi, Leo-
giata”, qualityaffettata associated e assaggiata with it. insieme
nardi, owner padrona of the Trattoria di casa alla LaTrattoria Buca in
ai suoi Andcommensali, the storiesdiffondendone continue to
La Zibello. Buca di Zibello.
l’immagine intertwine with e la bontà. friendships, meet-
cezzi, Concezzi, who from che the dalle Umbrian counnardo campagne
Dalla From Grande the Big Apple Mela al to Vecchio the Old
ingsEand le storie dinners, continuano on the homeward ad intrec-
tryside ha hasvarcato touchedledown umbre soglieondievery ogni
Continente, Continent, back per tirare to thelethread fila di of unthe te-
ciarsi boundin journey, amicizie, in Alto incontri Adige e where convi-
continent, bringing him Italian continente, portandowith di paese in pa-
laio tapestry che ricopre that covers gran parte a large del part pla-
vi therientrando Hungarian sullasalami strada di is casa, simply in
stylelofrom to country, ese stile country italiano da Miami a from Mel-
nisfero, of the world, la fibra including del sapore across conduthe
Alto calledAdige, “the lìLevoni”, dove l’Ungherese a sign of viethe
Miami to from fino Dubai bourne, da Melbourne, Dubai a Damasco, ad
ce English prestoChannel alla cucina to the d’oltremanica, kitchen of
ne area’s chiamato strong“ilconnection Levoni”, tanto withè the ra-
to Damascus, right up to becoming approdare come direttore dei lavori
in theuna Amalfi tradizione born Gennaro che dall’amalfitaContaldo,
dicata family, la who fedeltà oftenalla stays famiglia, there, and che
works director of the perla St. Regis in al St.Regis di Bangkok, dell’ho-
no owner Gennaro of theContaldo, restaurant titolare Passione del riin
spesso with thevicompany soggiorna, and all’azienda its products, e ai
Bangkok, a gem in Thailand’s hotellerie in Thailandia, dove pure non
storante London and Passione one ofdithe Londra capital’s ed best uno
suoi and the prodotti, birthplace e patria of di Norbert Norbert KostKo-
tel crown,diwhere of icourse, mancano arrivare prodottiLevoni Levo-
tra known i piùchefs, rinomati as well chef as della the culinary capita-
stner, ner, now presto one of divenuto the most uno important tra i più
products are to be found, moredella preni, nelle fattispecie, tra le altre,
le, interpretations si estende alle of interpretazioni Jamie Oliver, who cu-
importanti chefs in all chef Thailand. in Thailandia.
cisely, among Mortadella, Mortadella, del others, Prosciutto di Parma
linarie grew up di Jamie around Oliver, the family’s cresciutopub tra
Vagabondando per paesi, più Travelling through the imost
Ham and Verona Salami. eParma del Salame Verona.
ioven, fornelli a faithful del pub follower di famiglia, of ourfedeItal-
svariati, dalle culturewith gastronomiche varied countries, different,
le ianseguace maestros, deiand suoiowner maestri of the italiani nu-
differenziate, talvolta contrastanti, è sometimes contrasting, culinary
emerous presto Jamie’s proprietario Italiandeirestaurants numerosi
impossibile non trovare un tocco traditions, you will always find dia
Jamie’s where sophisticated Italian, dove laquality ricercatezza is en-
italianità altrettanto touch of eItaly and it facile is justscorgere as like-
della hanced qualità by hot si sposa Schiacciata con la and SchiacLe-
nel parterre gastronomico deiproduct miglioly you will find the Levoni
ciata voni Finocchiona, piccante e la Finocchiona besides of course Levo-
ri ristoranti ed alberghi del local mondodela that best complements
ni, theserviti better di known rito con SanilDaniele più notoham. Pro-
proposta Levoni cheinmaggiormente mands somewhere the best res-
sciutto Lastdibut Sannot Daniele. least in the Europe-
aggrada esigenze Dal clastaurants le and hotels locali. all around the
an scenario, Non ultime, Germany nel panorama and France euro-
sico al piccante, dal delicato allo delispeworld. From classic to hot,
peo, with Germania the delicacies e Francia ofvedono Cornelia ec-
ziato, gomitolo and si è spicy, avvolto un cate toil aromatic theinball
cellere Poletto, lewho prelibatezze proudly defends di Cornelia the
ventaglio sempre idee che riof threaddiwinds itsnuove way round new
Poletto, creativityche of women sostieneincon the orgoglio kitchen,
portano là, alla ideas that harkfonte, backalla to radice. the source
la and creatività the ideas femminile of Paul in Bocuse, cucina,who e le
Castellucchio, il nodo si andA the root. At dove Castellucchio,
idee has made di Paul a style Bocuse, out of cheinnovation, dell’inno-
stringe nella spago di where the knotlegatura is tied indithe thread
vazione by creating ha fatto Nouvelle uno stile, Cuisine: dando orithe
un salume, around curedspingendosi meat, readyoltreoceato travel
gine search allafor Nouvelle raw materials Cuisine: la straight ricer-
no finothe a destinazione e scioglienacross ocean to its destination,
ca from della themateria market prima stalls to direttamente rediscover
dosi di ritorno, lì ricomincia il viag-a unravelling on its return to begin
al thebanco essence delofmercato, flavours has finalizzata inspireda
gio un nuovo sapore, prontoconper newdijourney, ready for another
riscoprire chefs like Jamie il gusto Oliver, nellawho sua turned essen-
un’altra spedizione, un nuovo assagsignment that someone else will be
zialità, this new hastyle contagiato into a proprio television quegli pro-
gio. lucky enough to taste.
In Thefondo, worldanche of restaurants il mondo too della is
FROM DA SIENA A SIENA TO CASTELLUCCHIO Paolo Parisi, CASTELLUCCHIO che haParisi, scelto Paolo di continuare who has chosen la to tradizione continue dell’allevamento the tradition del Maiale di of rearing Cinta Senese the Cinta Senese pig
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
WINE & CURED MEATS
A match made in heaven Forever loved, forever fashionable. Here are a few suggestions, both as tradition dictates and traditions just waiting to be discovered MAURIZIO BERTERA
A
salami without wine is like a dance without music. Younger generations might claim there’s nothing to beat a good Coca Cola, and teetotallers will obviously not agree in principle, but one thing no one can deny is the absolute gastronomic delight that a good prosciutto or cured salami can bring when accompanied by a glass of wine.
mis and cured pork meats – such as
Scansano or Rosato di Bolgheri.
the typical Calabrian varieties, sausages from the south of Italy, or pepper-coated salamis – where the wine should not be
LIKE WITH LIKE, BUT NOT ALWAYS
overly acidic or astringent. A good com-
It has to be said that certain cured
panion for such meats would be a Salen-
meats have such strong links with their
tino rosé, soft and alcoholic like an Ale-
land of origin that the pairings have be-
zio or Squinzano or even a Cirò Rosato
come almost set in stone, although
there’s
al-
or wine from Proven-
ways room for manoeu-
ce, such as Bandol
vre: Bresaola is often
SWEET...
rosé. When it comes
served with a Valtellina Rosso although
In the array of flavours available,
to salt-cured meats,
with such a profusion of variables and
the choice of wine is
nuances, there’s one essential thing
anything but irrele-
they all have in common: the sweet-
vant, for prosciutto
ness that comes from the fat
ham in particular. Salt
This is what makes it so important
and wine do not sit per-
to pick a wine with just the right alcohol
fectly together, as the
content to complement the sweetness
one brings out the disa-
of the fat to perfection.
greeable and metal flavours
If the salami is predominantly sweet
in the other, ultimately upset-
with no particularly savoury edge - like
ting the overall balance. Big reds
cooked products such as cotechino and
and aromatic or fruity whites of fair-
zampone - regional tradition dictates
ly high acidity are to be avoided. The
that the best wine to choose is a young
best idea is to opt for a delicate red
red with a strong carbon dioxide con-
from the Alto Adige region (Lago di
tent that helps to clean the mouth, such
Caldaro, Schiava and Santa Madd-
as a Barbera del Monferrato, Bon-
alena) which excels when sipped
arda dell’Oltrepò, Cesanese del
with some speck ham, or a Lagrein
Piglio, Lambrusco Grasparossa di
Rosato, both of which are also ideal
Castelvetro, or Fortana.
with Parma or San Daniele ham.
...AND SPICY
or acidity make a good alternative,
The opposite is true for spicy sala-
such as a Morellino di
Light reds with no jaggy tannins
A TRUE COMPANION
THE RIGHT BREAD...
B
read and salami. Together they make
such a quick and tasty pairing that it has become a metaphor for all that is simple, genuine and honest. Bread and cured pork meat may not have the same ring to it, but the substance is the same and, without wishing to get too fana-
it can just as easily be savoured with a
tical about it, it’s wor-
Garda Bresciano Chiaretto or Val-
thwhile trying to find
calepio Rosso, which are all decidedly
the right combination, just
more delicate. A Chianti Classico goes
as we did with wine. The
down well with Tuscan gastronomy. The
reason for this is that, when good can be made excellent by choosing the right bread, bearing in mind the
same goes for Culatello, which the locals
cost obviously, a clever gourmet can be an even happier one. The first rule of the game is to pick a bre-
pair with a Colli di Parma Malvasia
ad from the same area as the cured meat because with the passing of the centuries, tradition has gradual-
Secco although a very “pure” experien-
ly moulded local flavours to make them fit perfectly with one another. It’s also worth spending some time
ce can also be had with a Trentino Mül-
considering the intrinsic features of the product, perhaps loosening its ties to the local area in order to tap
ler-Thurgau. Two typical delicacies from
into previously unleashed potential. There are some hard and fast rules though: a Milan salami should be
Piacenza’s traditional range of cured wild
eaten with a michetta (white bread roll which also originated in Milan, for the record) whilst a Po’ Salami
boar and pork meats, Coppa and Pan-
tastes better with a slice of ciabatta (a broad, flattish white bread), and a Felino on what they call francesi-
cetta, are exquisite not just with wines
no (baguette) in the north of Italy. Parma and San Daniele hams, both of which are super sweet (if you
from the local hills (Bonarda and Pinot
leave the rind on that is) should ideally be served with a delicately flavoured firm white bread, such as cop-
Nero respectively) but also with a Mon-
pia ferrarese for example, which is also perfect with culatello. The thin Italian flatbread called piadina is a
tepulciano d’Abruzzo Cerasuolo.
superlative choice for cured Parma ham, which also makes a tasty filling for Crescentina, known locally
For cured meats with a more delicate flavour, such as the Levonetto Curvo
in Cremona as torta fritta (fried bread cakes). In Piedmont, the locals swear by Turin-made grissini (breadsticks) for this pairing, and you have to admit, the experience is definitely a pleasurable one...
or Umbrian Corallina salami, the ultima-
The important thing is that the bread should never alter the flavour of the prosciutto. In fact, try to get
te pairing would be with a Collio Sauvi-
hold of some traditionally unsalted Tuscan-style bread for the more spicy meats («sciocco» (silly) the lo-
gnon, Alto Adige Gewurztraminer or
cals call it) as it will take the kick off the sausage. Toasted, this kind of bread sets off Finocchiona fennel
Alsace Grand Cru Riesling.
salami to perfection, although the latter also works surprisingly well with harder, dried pan biscotto. Cured meats from southern Italy, especially the spicy chilli pepper ones from Calabria, work well with the big
FINE WITH FIZZ
breads from the South, such as Mangone, Cerchiara or the famous Altamura which is also magnificent
The experts among you will have
with capocollo and Abruzzo salami. In keeping with the “like with like” idea, Sicily’s Paisanella salami
noticed the lack of bubbles in our selec-
should be served with traditional crusty white sesame seed bread. If you’re eating speck or any smoked
tions: this kind of wine pairs well with al-
pork meat, you will inevitably be served black bread with cumin and poppy seeds: give it a try, but make
most every type of cured meat as it will
sure it’s well-fired. In the Valtelline valley, they also serve dark brown bread with bresaola: we recommend
“clean” the mouth without detracting
adding some butter as this meat has no fat. Another suggestion: try putting wholemeal bread with pancetta
from the flavour of the food. Try popping
instead of sticking to the classic white rosette roll. Here’s another handy hint when you want to try some le-
a mortadella cube in your mouth while
gendary salty and herby Lardo di Castellucchio ai sapori: brown bread crostini toasts are ideal although not
sipping Franciacorta and you’ll discov-
to be overlooked is some simple sliced and toasted white pan carré, coated with a thin layer of acacia honey.
er just how surprising a combination it
Last but not least, if you can’t resist a bit of cooked ham or mortadella, we recommend a Milanese
is, even better than the classic combina-
michetta white bread roll or a French baguette which, national pride aside, we have to admit is much more
tion with Lambrusco di Sorbara.
versatile that the majority of Italian breads. Bon appétit.
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
NUM ERO
ZERO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
LEVONI’S PRIDE
SEE YOU AT THE BICENTENARY! CHAIRMAN Nicola Levoni has been chairman of the Levoni Board since 2008
W
hen we decided to collect anecdotes, pictures and facts about our first 100 years and put them together in a book, we had no idea what a moving experience it
would be. Before this, we Levonis had never had anything to do with archives, we had never stopped to take a look back: we only ever looked forward, with our sleeves rolled up and with the hardworking, positive-thinking approach that is typical of these parts. Our generation, the fourth at the helm of the company and the one called upon to steer Levoni into its second century, is both a promise of renewal and an assurance of continuity. This is because it will always depend on a meticulous production process, stringent controls, the protection of timehonoured traditions, our friendly, personal and sincere relations, and the genuine spirit of cooperation that we all have: put these together and you get the winning formula that has been our driving force for 100 years! What new things will we be doing? We will be investing more time in activities that promote traditional, time-honoured professions that still have a great future ahead of them, like pork butchers for instance; we will further expand our exports and try to reach the few countries that we haven’t progressed into yet; we will strengthen our relations with high-end delicatessens both in Italy and abroad; and we will continue to make environmental awareness a priority. All of this, without ever losing sight of our original goal, as defined by granddad Ezechiello and as relevant as ever: never compromise on quality. See you at the bicentenary!
LEVONI 2 0 1 1 A NN O
100
I
N UM E R O
ZE R O
Levoni Il Secolo
ANNO
1 0 0
I
NUMERO
ZERO
LEVON I
I
20 11
AN NO
10 0
2 0 1 1
NU ME R O
ZE RO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
L E V O N I 2 0 1 1 A N N O
1 0 0
I
N UME R O
Z E R O
Levoni Il Secolo
ANNO
1 0 0
I
NUMERO
ZERO
LEVON I
I
20 11
AN NO
10 0
2 0 1 1
NU ME R O
ZE RO
I
2011
LEVONI ANNO 100
L E V O N I 2 0 1 1 A N N O
1 0 0
I
N UME R O
Z E R O