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britain’s most sensational beach and cliff walks revealed!
360˚ snowdonia Discover the best view in Wales
islands of britain
From Scilly to Skye: six awesome offshore walks
£2,000 oF camping kit
kills s d o o g l e e f s w ie rev n alk, io t c e s n io t c e s n Sharpen your mind, Tackle a challenge wd sec:twalio king the clouds, an On test shoes, stoves and sunglasses rated
beat hear t disease, and tone up your legs
read make a survival kit
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( June 09
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What: POPPY FIELD WALKS Where: LOWLAND ENGLAND Why: BLOOD-RED CARPETS BELOW BLUE SKIES Heavily associated with Remembrance Day in November, the dazzlingly red poppy actually flowers in June, covering cornfields and roadsides in a scarlet blanket. An overwintering flower, its link with remembrance stems from its ability to bloom amid the wastelands of the Western Front throughout the First World War, where it brought colour to the devastated landscape. It was celebrated in John McCrae’s poem ‘In Flanders Fields’ (“In Flanders Fields the poppies blow, Between the crosses row on row.” ) Today the poppy is considered a weed by farmers, but with an average plant capable of producing 60,000 seeds, it’s difficult to eradicate. Which is good news for walkers and photographers keen on a countryside of dramatic colours – red flowers, green crops and blue skies. Spot poppies right across the south of England, from East Anglia to the Cotswolds and south.
Common poppies, white campion and oxeye daisies fill a field near Syreford, Gloucestershire.
Photo: Nick Turner/Alamy
In association with
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Coast
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Coast with the The
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Golden beaches or rocky cliffs? Wildlife-rich shore or great fish ‘n’ chips? Picking a perfect coastal walk can be tricky but don’t panic, here’s a seaside hike with it all…
Words: Jenny Walters Photos: Matthew Roberts
“
oing the coastlines was always my favourite. I used to have endless fun doing all the little fiddly bits.” Slartibartfast – prize-winning planetdesigner from the ‘Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy’ – has a point. The coast is where things get fun, as if someone cast aside the tidily drawn blueprint and started scribbling rock and sand like a kid with a new set of crayons. And Slartibartfast may have won a fjord award for the ‘lovely crinkly bits’ of Norway’s coast, but he endowed our island nation with a shoreline of staggering variety. Trouble is that faced with
thousands of kilometres of such scenic choice, deciding where to walk can find us at home in our dressing gown fending off a panic attack, veering mentally between cliff, beach, dunes, rockpools… It’s like trying to calculate the answer to life, the universe and everything: it requires Deep Thought. And it turns out 42 really is the answer. I scan map after map, seeking the perfect walk, one that showcases every incredible landscape on our generally very incredible coast, and my winner just happens to start a 42-mile crow’s flight from Land’s End, Britain’s most westerly spot and where Slarti might have started shaping our seaside.
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Squinting into the glare, Jenny looks for smugglers near Dinas Head.
Coast
Beaches Got talent
Here to entertain you, five of the UK’s finest beaches. Which one will get your vote? Words: Jonathan Manning Photo: Britain on View
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SEILEBOST BEACH, THE ISLE Of HArrIS This Outer Hebridean island is lavishly endowed with jewels of beaches, snow-like sands slipping gently into tropical-coloured waters, with the bruising menace of mountains on the horizon. Harris’ isolation is its protection. A beach like this on England’s south coast would make a rush-hour Tube look empty. In the world of restaurant reviews, there was an informal understanding that one Michelin star meant a meal was worth the money (vaux la table), two stars was worth the detour (vaux le detour) and three stars was worth a special journey (vaux le voyage). In beach terms, Seilebost is vaux le voyage, however far from the mainland it sits. Grid ref: NG068971 Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 455
Land’s End 3,750km
Grange-over-Sands
Whitehaven
Gretna
Isle of Whithorn
Girvan
Helensburgh
Whicham to Black Combe summit
Flimby to Maryport
Garlieston to the Isle of Whithorn
Mull of Galloway to West Tarbert
Turnberry to Culzean
Kilbride Bay to Portavadie
Explore the priories of pilgrim country around the Isle (which isn’t an isle now) – and look out for Stinking Port!
The tip of the Rhinns of Galloway is isolation par excellence, and the raw cliffs of ‘greywacke’ stone are truly stunning.
Black Combe is one of our favourite coastal peaks, rising grandly from the sands above Millom in Cumbria.
Follow the Cumbria Coastal Way between the two railway stations, in the footsteps of artist L S Lowry, who loved the landscapes here.
A fantastic stretch of the newly created Ayrshire Coastal Path, with sandy bays and views across to the Isle of Arran and Ailsa Craig.
Visit standing stones, ruined castles and the Bronze Age burial sites on the tiny, land-linked islet of Eilean Aoidhe.
Author Alex Garland’s search for the perfect beach began with a novel and became a film that courted controversy when an apparently flawless Thai beach was bulldozed and landscaped to make it more ‘paradise-like’. If a white-sand, turquoise-water, cliff-protected beach needs the Hollywood treatment, what chance do British beaches stand? Well, a pretty good one actually, especially if you’re looking to walk along one rather than roll out a towel. This country’s coastline is punctuated with amazing beaches, from epic stretches of shingle to tiny, unblemished coves, to miles of golden sand. For this walkers’
version of Beaches Got Talent, though, there’s one overriding criterion – size. All these beaches have to be long enough to make it worth your while to unlace your boots and stamp footprints into the cool, damp sand, or feel fine grains of dry sand drop between your toes like grains in an egg-timer. And the route you walk must not be a labyrinthine weave between sunbathers, but one with space to run and holler or sit in silence to listen to the wind and waves. So which beaches have the talent to avoid the judges’ buzzers and make it straight through to the final?
rHOSSILI BAy, GOwEr Finding a fabulous beach on the Gower Peninsula is as easy as sticking a pin in a map. Here at Country Walking we’d plant our flag not at Oxwich Bay, which butts up to the admittedly beautiful Three Cliffs, but instead at Rhossili, where a walk from one end of the beach to the other and back again would clock up an astonishing six miles on your pedometer. Not that you’ll be looking at your hip belt, with the distraction of breaking waves on one side and sharply sloping hills on the other. Grid ref: SS415881 Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 164
BAmBurGH, NOrTHumBErLANd The Ariston of beaches, Bamburgh beach just goes on and on and on, mile after mile of deserted sand surveilled by a cliffperched castle. Kids of all ages will love the rough and tumble of rolling down the dunes, while the temptation to kick off your shoes and saunter barefoot for hours over the acres of pure sand is simply irresistible. Grid ref: NU182349 Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 340
HOLkHAm, NOrfOLk It may be boringly predictable to choose Holkham beach for this shortest of shortlists, but to ignore it would be as peculiar as an end-of-season Premiership table without Manchester United in the top five. At low tide you can walk almost half-amile from the pine-fringed beach before the waves lap at your toes, and your muscles will give up before the sand does if you head north or south along the awesome expanse of beach. Grid ref: TF888452 Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 251
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SAuNTON SANdS, dEvON The three-mile crescent of fine golden sand at Saunton in North Devon lie at the heart of one of the country’s most magnificent coastal walks. The inland section of the eight-mile trail follows the South West Coast Path, hugging Braunton Burrows, England’s largest sand dune system. The beach is popular with surfers, and is occasionally used for military training, yet still stands out in a part of the country blessed with outstanding beaches. Grid ref: SS454374 Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 139
High Keil (Kintyre)
Crinan
Mull Lighthouse to Rubha na Lice Descend the steep track to the lighthouse then skirt the epic cliffs on this astonishing walk – see Route 25.
Portnahaven (Islay)
Fort William
Fionnphort (Mull)
Ardtalla to McArthur’s Circuit of Lismore Head (Isle of Islay) Circumnavigate the
Craignure to Duart Point (Isle of Mull)
Arivegaig to Camas an Bearreraig Bay to the 1,200km Lighe (Ardnamurchan) Old Man of Storr (Skye)
A favourite route at the Walk Islay Festival, this walk gives astonishing views of both Islay and the Paps of Jura.
Follow the route of the Mull & West Highland Narrow Gauge Railway past castles and towers – then get the train back!
Take the old drovers’ road, befriend the local otters and make the Singing Sands sing – see Route 26.
small island of Lismore in the mouth of Loch Linnhe. ‘Lios Mor’ is Gaelic for ‘Great Garden’ – you’ll understand why.
Mallaig John O’Groats
Has a claim as one of the most sensational walks in Britain. Stupendous rock pinnacles and glittering sea beyond.
Gear Men’s shoes Regatta Fast Track X-LT £60
Salomon Exit Aero £55 With limited midsole support, the shoe will distort allowing your foot to feel every bump and camber. Plenty of padding at the cuff and tongue and generous sizing means these should feel comfortable on most walkers.
Comfort 0
2
Performance 4
6
8
10
0
2
4
6
8
10
Total
Comfort
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
0
At first glance £60 seems like a good price for a pair of shoes for walking, and it certainly would be if you only really wanted them for casual use and really easy trails, but the Fast Track has a flimsy midsole that lacks the kind of lateral support needed for rough and rocky trails, and the tread pattern doesn’t really provide much traction on softer ground either. They are well-padded and the Isotex lining worked well in wet grass. Sizes: UK 7-12; EU 41-47 Upper: Leather/mesh Waterproof lining: Yes Weight per pair: 860g Women’s version: Yes, Lady Fast Track X-LT Contact: 0161 749 1313; www.regatta.com
Brasher Helium X CR £85
As usual with Salomon, the sizing is way out. Best to try carefully before buying. Mesh uppers are light and leak, but they also let water out and dry quickly.
Best-suited to the type of walker that would prefer a running shoe to a boot.
2
Performance 4
6
8
10
0
2
4
6
Total 8
10
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
With a mainly mesh upper and no waterproof lining, this is the cheapest and one of the lightest shoes tested. It has limited midsole support, and leaks like a sieve, but it will work superbly in dry, hot climates or on well-surfaced trails; and will also do a great job for the fast and light brigade, who don’t mind getting wet feet, as long as the water escapes again and they dry quickly. The fit is on the small size, but they are well padded and have good laces. Sizes: UK 6.5-13.5 Upper: Leather/mesh Waterproof lining: No Weight per pair: 780g Women’s version: Yes, Women’s Exit Aero Contact: 01276 404 860; www.salomonsports.com
Merrell Pantheon Sport Gore-Tex £85
The gusseted tongue and fitted ankle cuff make these shoes very difficult to get in and out of.
Comfort 0
62
2
Performance 4
6
8
10
0
2
4
6
8
10
Total
Comfort
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
0
Amazingly light, especially for a shoe with a waterproof lining. But overall they feel more like a running shoe than a multi-activity shoe. For walking, this will suit those that are prepared to sacrifice comfort and support to save weight, but they are just a bit too flimsy for the really tough stuff unless you have very strong feet and ankles. They are designed to fit very snugly,and this, combined with a gusseted tongue, makes them very hard to get on. Sizes: UK 7-12 inc half-sizes Upper: Synthetic nubuk and mesh Waterproof lining: Yes Weight per pair: 740g Women’s version: Unisex Contact: 0191 5165780 www.brasher.co.uk
A Gore-Tex XCR lining provides waterproofing with good breathability. Lacing that extends over the toe can be used to achieve a really stable fit - useful for walking downhill.
2
Performance 4
6
8
Brasher all Terrain £9 Designed for multi-activity use, the all Terrain enhances both comfort and performance while keeping feet fresh and cool. Coolmax fibres wick moisture away from the foot, while high-density padding in the toe and heel area provides extra cushioning in the places that need it most.
0
2
4
6
Total 8
10
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
Very light with a soft, flexible midsole that makes it feel more like a beefed-up trainer. Gore-Tex XCR waterproof lining and a deep tread pattern that works well on a variety of surfaces. Fit can be easily fettled courtesy of good lacing. It’s well-padded, especially at the cuff and tongue, so feels good when you first put it on; and the fairly high fabric content makes it cool and very breathable – useful for summer walking. Sizes: UK 7-13; EU 40-49 Upper: Leather/mesh Waterproof lining: Yes Weight per pair: 730g Women’s version: No Contact: Tel 0207 8600100; www.merrell.co.uk
Perfect partners Team your multi-activity shoes with a pair of technical socks to keep feet dry, comfy and sweet-smelling this summer. Check out some of the latest styles…
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Thorlo eXperia £11 Combines ultra-lightweight performance with comfort, durability and high breathability. nylon-covered lycra with mesh panels provide a glove-like fit with maximum breathability, while Thorlo’s patented cushion pads provide impact protection.
FoX river WoMen’s enDeavour CreW £11.80 a rugged, lightweight, quick-drying merino wool/synthetic sock designed for outdoor active wear. Claims to dry 20% faster than other merino socks and offer three times more abrasion resistance. Cushioned soles with mesh-knit side channels promote airflow to aid moisture removal.
The North Face Hedgehog XCR £80
Mammut Tatlow GTX £110 The footbed has a short, sharp ridge protruding from it and this feels odd; almost as if you have something in your shoe. Low ankle cuffs feel light and make you want to stride out. they also let in water easily.
Comfort 0
2
Performance 4
6
8
10
0
2
4
6
8
10
Total
Comfort
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
0
Good midsole support, which will be appreciated on rougher ground. Fitwise, they are made around an average last, and they have plenty of padding. There is an odd ridge running down the centre of the footbed, though, and this felt very disconcerting. In action, the very low ankle encourages fast movement but doesn’t offer as much support as most shoes tested. A Gore-Tex XCR lining keeps water out but breathes well enough.
2
Performance 4
6
8
10
0
2
4
6
Total 8
10
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
The Mammut brand is Broad and roomy with excellent padding that makes it what was once feel great from the box. Leather upper moulds quickly to known as Raichle. the foot providing great comfort and the soft shell trim A soft shell fabric on the cuff and tongue cuts weight yet maintains water resistance.
looks and feels good, as well as adding a bit more weather resistance. A Gore-Tex XCR lining keeps water out, but they are quite low-cut and therefore let water in from the top. Midsole is suitable for most going, but the tread pattern is better suited to rock or firmer surfaces.
Sizes: UK 9-13; EU 40.5-47 Upper: Synthetic leather/mesh Waterproof lining: Yes Weight per pair: 800g Women’s version: Yes Contact: 01539 738882; www.thenorthface.com/eu
Sizes: UK 3-8 including half-sizes Upper: Leather/soft shell Waterproof lining: Yes Weight per pair: 960g Women’s version: Yes Contact: 01625 508218; www.mammut.ch
Meindl Emotion XCR £100
Càrn Storm Chaser eV LOW £95
A good midsole flexes slightly front to back, but holds the foot stable laterally. The Variofix system uses a strip of webbing to adjust the cuff as the laces are tightened.
Comfort 0
2
Performance 4
6
8
10
0
2
4
6
8
10
Total
Comfort
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
0
Been around for a while now but still a top performer courtesy of an excellent Kevlar midsole that allows exactly the right amount of flex, and a very supportive suede and fabric upper. Good lacing, including the Meindl Variofix system, should enable a snug fit on most feet. Not as much padding as some so can feel a little harsh for the first few miles. An XCR lining keeps water out, and a great Vibram sole provides grip on most surfaces. Sizes: UK 6-14 Upper: Leather/mesh Waterproof lining: Yes Weight per pair: 950g Women’s version: Yes, Emotion XCR Lady Contact: 01539 560214; www.bramwell-int.co.uk
BriDgeDale X-hale TrailheaD (Men’s) £11.99 Bridgedale’s biggest selling multi-activity sock features their ‘T2’ (anticompression) and WoolFusion (synthetic/natural fibre blend) technologies to ensure feet stay dry, cushioned and comfy when used with multi-activity or approach style footwear. Women’s version (Diva) also available.
sealskinz Walking soCk £28 The Walking sock features an elasticated arch and ankle, delivering outstanding comfort and support for all shoes, including multi-activity footwear. Made from merino wool, they also offer great wicking performance and warmth.
At the weight of lightweight boots, you need to decide whether these shoes actually give you anything over boots. Deep lugs on the sole mean it grips well on soft grass.
2
Performance 4
6
8
10
0
2
4
6
Total 8
10
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
About as close to a boot as you are going to get in a shoe and pretty heavy. But it is extremely comfortable, courtesy of a generous fit and plenty of padding, and it’s also very supportive for a shoe; with a superb midsole that flexes front to back easily but holds steady laterally on rough ground. Waterproof leather and an eVENT lining keep water out and the sole grips well on softer, typical UK surfaces. Sizes: UK 7-13 Upper: Nubuck Waterproof lining: Yes Weight per pair: 1,200g Women’s version: Yes, Women’s Storm Chaser Contact: www.carn-uk.com
Teko-Merino lighT MiniCreW £11.95 This sock uses a special ‘sandwich’ construction incorporating merino wool, recycled polyester, nylon and lycra to provide a supportive performance fit suitable for walking, sports and everyday wear.
MeinDl CoMForT FiT laDy £13.99 Merino wool, polyamide and lycra combine to produce a women’s sock that excels for walking, travel and day-to-day use. They promise to keep feet cool, dry and odour-free. anatomically shaped with left and right fit.
In association with
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Coast
ISLAND LIFE The houseboat sits high and dry on the mudflats at low tide.
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Photo: Rodger Tamblyn/Alamy
Stephen Emms gets a taste of raw and remote Mersea Island, off the Essex coast. Words and photos: Stephen Emms
G
ive a man an island, of course, and he’ll have an overwhelming desire to walk round it. With its varied 22km perimeter path, Mersea, nine miles south-east of Colchester, is a case in point: the most easterly inhabited island in England, it’s connected by a causeway (the ‘Strood’), but still cut off a few times a month at high tide. It reeks of briny history, too: Roman pavements lurk under its St Peter and Paul Church (itself built in 1046); the Strood is the only Anglo-Saxon causeway in England; it’s mentioned in the Domesday Book (home of one hundred ‘souls’); smuggling dominated in the 18th and 19th centuries; and in the First World War a zeppelin was shot down here. Planning to circle the oyster-shaped isle in the limited daylight hours of late winter, we arrive a day early, and are immediately taken by the anchorage, with its boatyards, harbour, and attractive ‘Old City’ quarter of white clapperboard houses. The afternoon is magnificent: blue sky smiles over the creeks, and the sun pings off the mudflats. ‘We couldn’t be luckier,’ I say to my dad, as we sink a pint at characterful waterfront boozer The Coast Inn, where Churchill reputedly enjoyed a pie or two.
Boiling up the freshest lobster.
Next morning, opening the door on to the verandah of waterfront pub-with-rooms The Victory, the masts are clinking as noisily as a gorilla running over a xylophone. Yes, the wind is definitely up, but the sky is still clear when we set off at 9.30am. The first stretch, along the wilds of Mersea beach, is a stunning vista of yachts, dilapidated houseboats, the ‘monkey steps’ (where officials would guard against smugglers), and wooden-slatted houses, the spectre of Bradwell Power Station looming across the water. As the wind whips up, parasurfers speed by and we pass hundreds of beach huts in all shades of green, blue and brown. Russell, my partner, suddenly lets out a gasp. “It’s like Dolly Parton world!” We glance over and are confronted by a row of the most tasteless ice cream-coloured huts I’ve ever seen – think Parma violets and sickly pinks, all scalloped edges and balustrades. Who on earth commissioned such eyesores? “They’re like an estate agent’s version of a beach hut,” sighs local artist James Weaver later, the owner of the lovely Art Café in town. “We tried in vain to stop them!” Less appealing, too, is the string of holiday parks: it’s better, we decide, to look seaward, where we can see specks of old men digging for cockles and whelks on the mudflats. The holiday parks soon peter out and at Cudmore Grove Country Park, in East Mersea, we meet enthusiastic ranger Dougal Urquhart, who points out hundreds of brent geese lined up, all the way from Siberia, pecking in the sand. “We’re always sad to see them go in springtime,” he says. Nearby, flocks of golden plovers explode into the air, whilst Russian widgeons graze on fields behind the sea wall. “When they’re disturbed, they whistle,” Dougal tells us. We pass the highest cliffs on the island, no more than 15ft, where fallen oaks litter the beach. Dougal shows us the river gravel in the
53 The dolls housecoloured beach huts look like ‘Dolly Parton’ world!
Stephen and his father follow the coast path.
Feel good
sand advice
In association with
Why walking a beach is the best route to fitness
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If your route diverts along the coast then here’s why you should make for the beach… Greater Calorie Burn
Belgian studies found that as your muscles and tendons will work harder crossing sand, you’ll use up to 2.7 times more energy than walking on hard, flat surfaces. Depending on the pace and duration of your walk, you could burn up 50% more calories than you would road walking.
Sunnier DiSpoSition
The sea air can do wonders for your mental health, too. US research reveals that sea air is full of negative hydrogen ions – charged particles which boost the body’s ability to absorb oxygen and raise levels of the moodimproving hormone serotonin.
41%
Breathe eaSier
Minerals in the sea air are rich in sodium and iodine, both of which are vital for healthy lung functioning. Research from the Ben-Gurion University in Israel found that walking in areas where concentration of the sea’s nutrients is especially high can improve the respiratory performance of chronic illness sufferers.
Better MuSCle Definition
Leg muscles, such as the calves, are among the toughest to strengthen. But the simple act of walking over sand can boost those back-of-the-leg muscles. Research among Turkish men found that exercising on sand produced a greater increase in calf circumference when compared to those working out on the road.
a BooSt for Your fitneSS
Studies from the Cape Peninsula University of Technology in South Africa show that walking in sand provides a greater challenge to those seeking to boost their fitness levels. Trials on 14 men – comparing their heartrates and oxygen intake – found a significant increase in the amount of effort used to cross the dunes compared to grass.
That’s the percentage by which you will reduce your risk of disability in old age if you start walking today.
research from the University of Georgia, USa, published in the ‘Journal of Geriatric Physical Therapy’, found that regular walkers raised their peak aerobic capacity by 19% when compared to non-walkers, and recorded all-round physical function that was 25% better. it has led researchers to conclude that those of us who want to maintain our independence well into old age should don those hiking boots now.
Exercise of the month...
The bacK flye “By the end of a long walk, your shoulders and upper back can be sore from carrying a rucksack – particularly if you spend your working week slouched in front of a computer. The back flye strengthens the muscles between your shoulder blades, opens your chest, and improves your posture so you can walk tall all day.”
Walking helps me...
Keep my heart in check
Start Sit in a chair with knees bent at 90 degrees, feet flat on the floor with two weights next to them – small dumb-bells or cartons of juice are good. Lean forward so your chest is on your knees, making sure your neck is in line with your spine, and pick up a weight in each hand.
Our trainer, Peter Sheard, is a Senior Lecturer in Sport, Exercise & Biomedical Science at the University of Bedfordshire. www.beds.ac.uk
Health
Pain Predictor Feeling a pinch, strain or pain when you’re walking? Our expert reveals the possible cause and practical solutions. Pain: Sharp shock or weakness around the ankle. Symptoms: Sudden ache when you misplace your footing or a lack of stability in one ankle when walking. Diagnosis: “If you find your ankle sprains regularly there are two possible causes,” says Ian Craig MSc, exercise physiologist with www.craigcoaching.com. “Either your shoes don’t have a supportive enough ankle region (so if you are walking on uneven or rocky ground, consider changing or tightening your boots) or your ‘proprioception’ – the internal feedback on body position and balance between your body and brain – may need some attention.” Treatment: The instant action for a sprain is to rest and elevate your ankle. “But if it’s a persistent problem or particularly severe sprain, a physiotherapist will rehabilitate it by building up balance exercises for you to do. These also train your proprioception.” They include standing on one leg and closing your eyes (with no hard objects around!) or performing exercise on a ‘wobble board’ or Bosu, a half-fitness-ball-like device used in gyms.
Name: Kevin Hunter. Age: 48. Lives: Dadlington, Warwickshire. Occupation: Chef.
“In 2005 I was diagnosed with high blood pressure, put on medication and told to exercise more. “I now walk every day with at least one 10-mile walk a week. I’m lucky as I have so many great places to walk nearby, including the Grand Union Canal, Market Bosworth, British Camp in the Malvern Hills, and Charnwood Forest. I also have eight dogs that make sure I’m always out and about. “I am now planning to do a sponsored walk raising money for UK charity the Blood Pressure Association (www.bpassoc.org.uk). I’ll aim to complete my longest distance when I walk the Lyke Wake Walk (42 miles – see p80). “Walking so regularly certainly contributes to me maintaining a healthy blood pressure. Also, because I’m a chef, working long hours in a small, busy kitchen, going for a long walk is wonderful escapism, too. I can clear my head and leave the stresses of work behind me. It’s a complete shift in space.”
I have two doctors, my left leg and my right. George trevelyan, historian, 1913
In association with
LiFt Raise your arms out to your side, keeping your elbows bent slightly – you should look like a seagull raising its wings. Focus on drawing your shoulder blades together behind you to pull your arms up and round, rather than working your arm muscles. As a minimum, raise your arms until they’re parallel to the floor – the maximum is when you can’t lift them any higher. Do three sets of 10-12 repetitions, three times a week.
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Grade Moderate
PLAN YOUR ROUTE Ponteland
Hexham
Brampton
Corbridge
Gateshead Washington Consett Stanley
Start Walk along Front Street in westerly direction and turn L on road to White Kirkley. Visit station to see example of Frosterley ‘marble’ (actually fossilised limestone). Cross bridge and turn R on road. Ignore first footpath beside house and take next footpath L. 1
Routes 23-24 ps jt.indd 2-3
3.5km/2¼ miles Follow waymark L, keeping above wall. Where path descends towards farm, take R fork and pass above hamlet of Hill End. Take path R of isolated house across moor. Turn L at waymarked post, R of stream, and follow signed path to road and bridge. 2
6.5km/4 miles Cross and turn L beside stream 3
Scotch Corner
20
ROUTE
Richmond
18
Is it for me? A steady ascent and a steeper descent. Good paths even on the moor Stiles 8
16
START/PARKING
12
14
Car park in centre of Frosterley, grid ref NZ026370 Nearest town Stanhope Refreshments The Black Bull Inn and Coffee House, fish ‘n’ chips, Frosterley Public toilets None Public transport Bus 101 from Bishop Auckland; X21 from Newcastle
10
Follow track behind farm and L towards stream. Do not cross footbridge, but turn R along stream to stone stile. Pass two more stone stiles then bear R to a wooden stile R of mound and large tree (Weardale Way). Turn L at ruin and follow track around bend. Just before Ridding House, turn L, follow track around and climb up to fell. Ignore gate R and continue straight up and through small wooden gate.
Darlington
Brough
MAPS
8
his walk gets to the very essence of Weardale as it was and as it is today. A beautiful landscape but not entirely natural; two contrasting valleys that share a similar past of mines and quarries but are very different today. Relics of the past occur often on this walk and information boards tell of the history. However it is the nature, the birds, the lonely moorland, the rivers and streams that make this walk so pleasant. By Paul and Christine Monaghan.
Appleby-inWestmorland
Durham Brandon Spennymoor Bishop Auckland Newton Aycliffe DURHAM
Ordnance Survey Explorer OL31; Landranger 92
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Photo: Paul and Christine Monaghan
Alston
T
Gosforth Newcastle upon Tyne
4
Bollihope Burn from the bridge at Point 2.
Refreshments 1 pub/1 café
2
Time 4 hours
NORTHERN ENGLAND
Distance 12km/7½ miles
800 600 400 200 0 km 0
12
metres
23
DURHAM FROSTERLEY
Refreshments 5 pubs/2 cafés
PLAN YOUR ROUTE Holy Island
Bamburgh
Alnwick NORTHUMBERLAND
Amble
1 Start Drop through dunes to beach. Head R towards mouth of River Aln. Look out to sea to distant Coquet Island and white lighthouse. Follow high tide
1.6km/1 mile Climb stairs, cross road and turn L over 1864 Duchess Bridge. At entrance to 1880-founded Alnmouth & Lesbury Cricket Club go through small metal kissinggate, signed ‘Lesbury’, and cross field alongside hedge on R. As field ends path bears R, 2
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Is it for me? Generally on good flat paths, occasionally muddy after rain, some Tarmac and stretches of sandy beach. One short, sharp hill. Suitable for most reasonably fit people Stiles 3
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mark, bearing R into estuary until opposite green, crossadorned mound on far river bank. This is historic Church Hill which, until river changed course during 1806 storms, was joined to Alnmouth. Leave estuary by steps to R and turn L along road as far as ‘Garden Terrace’. Next to stables and five-bar gate turn L through narrow cut, signed ‘Lovers Walk Coast Path’. Follow estuaryhugging path to fine four-arch stone bridge. Watch for variety of birds including curlew, redshank and greenshank.
Whitley Bay
START/PARKING
14
he beautiful coastal village of Alnmouth stands on the north bank of the River Aln estuary and is picture-postcard-perfect. Founded in 1150, the village proudly casts an eye across a magical band of dune-backed, golden sand. On this walk you will follow the river upstream passing alongside the estuary’s bird-rich mudflats. You will enjoy good distant views to Alnwick Moor and the Cheviot Hills beyond. You will feel the soft sand beneath your feet and, if you have bravery in abundance, you can even dip your toes in the ice-cold North Sea. By Geoff Holland.
Ponteland
ROUTE
Newbigginby-the-Sea Blyth
Car park between golf links and Alnmouth beach, grid ref NU250106 Nearest town Alnwick Refreshments Pubs and cafés, Alnmouth Public toilets Alnmouth Public transport Buses from Newcastle, Morpeth and Alnwick. Trains from Newcastle
12
T
Bedlington
10
Photo: Geoff Holland
Ashington Morpeth
20
Coldstream
8
WALK
MAPS
6
The River Aln estuary, see Point 1.
Ordnance Survey Explorer 332; Landranger 81 4
TOP
Grade Easy
2
Time 2 hours
NORTHERN ENGLAND
6.4km/4 miles
800 600 400 200 0 km 0
6.4 Distance
metres
24
NORTHUMBERLAND ALNMOUTH
9/5/09 14:25:22
24
NORTHUMBERLAND ALNMOUTH Buy maps at www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/mapshop Ordnance Survey mapping ©Crown Copyright in association with Memory-Map/Bauer Media’s Media Licence number AM139/08
4
3
2
Start
1
marked with yellow arrow, and then passes through two wooden gates. Once beyond houses path bends L to road via small gate. Turn R to cross footbridge over River Aln. 2.8km/1¾ miles Route now turns R but first follow path half-L for short diversion to Lesbury’s historic St Mary’s Church and quaint, floral-fronted Coach Inn. Retrace steps and follow sign ‘Foxton Hall and Alnmouth’. Cross small footbridge and keep to clear river-following path. At line of telegraph poles, turn L uphill on clear path. 3
Routes 23-24 ps jt.indd 4-5
4km/2½ miles At top of hill cross road and follow ‘Alnmouth Golf Club’ sign. At golf club (Foxton Hall), take yellow arrow-marked footpath L of buildings down to beach. Turn R and, if tide allows, follow shoreline back to start. Otherwise follow path along clifftop to your R, immediately beyond two houses. 4
Where the River Aln meets the cold North Sea.
Route created using Memory-Map V5 Northern England – OS 1:50,000 Contact 0870 740 9043 www.memory-map.co.uk © Country Walking June 2009
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DURHAM FROSTERLEY Buy maps at www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/mapshop Ordnance Survey mapping ©Crown Copyright in association with Memory-Map/Bauer Media’s Media Licence number AM139/08
1
Start
2
4
3
and through former quarry (now grassed over) with its pretty lake. Continue to kilns; 150m further, right of way takes R fork uphill and through gate L of house to meet lower path at footbridge. Cross and continue beside burn to road. Turn R over bridge into White Kirkley and take footpath L. Follow Weardale Way to Harthope Gill lead mine. 4 10km/6¼ miles Turn L past ruin of mineshop and over footbridge. Cross stile and turn L again. Pass stone hut and follow R-hand fence where it bears R on overgrown path into trees. Go through gate and follow fence R. Turn L along
Looking back at Bollihope Burn – Point 3.
path above River Wear. Continue on farm track to Bridge End, turn R over bridge and return to start.
Route created using Memory-Map V5 Northern England – OS 1:50,000 Contact 0870 740 9043 www.memory-map.co.uk © Country Walking June 2009
9/5/09 14:26:23
Photo: britainonview/Rod Edwards
All you need for A summer of Adventure
¤ Cool camping 50 great sites
from wild mountain-top to luxurious tipi ¤ find your perfect tent 12 on test ¤ Get a good night’s kip! The best sleeping bags and mattresses ¤ the accessories you really need ¤ skills & tips Where to pitch, what to cook, how to tell a ghost story....
,847D .,8;492 A week together under canvas will create family memories to last a lifetime. Good memories, honest! Words: Jonathan Manning Photo: Tom Bailey
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ule number 37 of parenthood reads, “Never be surprised at what delights your children.” It’s the rule that covers the trip to the Natural History Museum when the highlight of the day wasn’t the T-Rex but the ride on the Tube, and explains the fascination at Christmas with the gift box rather than the present. When it comes to holidays, Rule 37 also explains why a wet weekend under canvas will rank more highly in children’s holiday league tables than a week in a Mediterranean villa. And the reason is simple; camping demands you give children the most valuable commodity in the world, the only commodity you can’t buy more of… time. With a pseudo-philosopher’s
hat on, camping democratises families. You get up together, wash together, cook together, eat together, play games together and even sleep together – there’s no split between adult and child lives, and children love it. They adore feeling more grown up, more trusted, a more equal part of the family. What’s more, when the kids are happy, the family tends to be happy, which makes for a good holiday. So if you’re looking for a chance to be the parent you always want to be, yet never consistently manage in time-pressed daily lives (and aren’t we all?), it’s time to go family camping. The first thing you’ll notice is how cheap it is – you’d be hard pressed to pay more than £20 per
night for a tent pitch on a fivestar campsite with pool, hot showers and play area, which means that an entire family can stay for a week for less than a couple would pay for two nights bed & breakfast. In your first year, those savings can be used to offset the cost of all the kit – tents, mattresses, sleeping bags, cooking stove and the Aladdin’s cave of accessories designed to make your stay as comfortable as possible. Year two, those savings translate to more cash for days (and nights) out, which has to be good news in these belttightening, credit crunch times. So what are the key tips for a successful family camping trip, a holiday that will allow you to wake well-rested to the smell of fresh grass and sizzling bacon,
1,847D ?09?> :9 ?0 >? Eurohike Windsor £200
Outwell Arkansas 5 £595 simple but very effective, the fluorescent guy ropes are easy to spot in low light.
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small pack size, so handy if your car boot space is under pressure. The cheapest tent in the test and it shows. The poles feel flimsy (they were already gaffer-taped in our test sample) and the flysheet has the lowest hydrostatic head (waterproofness) of the four on this page. It’s not intuitive to erect, and there’s no groundsheet for the main living area, only for the three lined sleeping areas. On the plus side, there are good windows, decent vents, and it’s light to carry and small to stow away when not in use. Worth considering if you only plan to camp for a few days, but if you plan a few trips it’s a false economy.
Check the tent’s footprint because you may need to pay for two pitches. The two sleeping areas are side-byside, so not ideal for honeymooners!
Max living area: 220x345cm Max sleeping area: Three 220x140cm zones Weight: 20kg Contact: 0800 389 5861, www.millets.co.uk
Sprayway Canyon 4+2 £350
The website has pitching instructions to download if you lose the plans that come with the tent.
If Volvo made tents they’d be something like the Arkansas – big, solid, spacious, and no frills. It’s hernia-inducing heavy at 20.8kg for the tent and 19.1kg for the poles, so carry them apart, and requires strength to pitch (you may need your camp neighbour’s help), but once erected it feels like it will stay up all summer. The unlined living area offers loads of headroom and space plus a decent groundsheet, and there’s a large porch, and two lined sleeping areas. The only concern was some corrosion on the steel poles, which could become problematic; we struggled to separate two poles after use. Max living area: 250x325cm Max sleeping area: Two areas measuring 225x185cm and 225x140cm Weight: 39.9kg Contact: 01937 591101, www.outwell.com
Coleman Evolva X3 £500
accommodating six people would need two to sleep in the living area. The Evolva is a neat idea – a central hub, with a series of
The easiest tent to erect on this page, two adults could put this up in under 30 minutes. The three poles and their holes are colour-coded, and the liner clips in once the shell is up. Inside there are two decent sleep zones at either end, plus two useful storage areas. The whole tent is lined, adding a sense of comfort but reducing the height of the living area. The sewn-in groundsheet curls up six inches at the sides, causing a trip hazard at the door, but there are eight good low-level vents and two windows. Ideal for new campers.
The most waterproof annexes zipped on to it. The tent comes as standard with of all the flysheets one, lined sleep annex for three people (a crowd?), and tested. each extra sleeping or cooking annex costs about £140. It You can zip on extra annexes, at extra cost, to increase the size of the tent.
Max living area: 215 x 210cm Max sleeping area: Two 210x140cm zones Weight: 36kg Contact: 0161 366 5020, www.sprayway.com
could potentially sleep nine, which would be handy to put it up, because although logical to pitch, it definitely helps to be tall and strong. The central hub is unlined, but does have a fully integrated groundsheet and a skylight. You can also roll up the hub sides to make a gazebo, and there’s a small porch for shade and shelter. Ideal for hot weather.
Max living area: 500x250cm Max sleeping area: 210x210cm per sleep annex Weight: 29.7kg Contact: 01275 845 024, www.coleman.eu
Air mattresses
If you’ve had a big day with turbocharged young ones, you’ll be glad of a good night’s sleep. We asked Goldilocks to try out three airbeds to see which was just right…
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Outwell Flock Classic Double (with chambers), £30 Brilliant chambers mean two can sleep side by side without one feeling every flip and fidget of the other. www.outwell.dk
Coleman Rest ’n’ Relax Double, £40 Sturdy and comfortable, with two zip-on options: one a low pillow for two heads, the other a backrest for late-night reading. www.coleman.eu
Gelert Two-Layer Delux Comfort, £70 The divan of airbeds. The double layer means you’ll enjoy outstanding comfort, although the size makes it cumbersome. www.gelert.com
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