KAÊI 8;IJ#I;BB?D= >?BB#M7BA?D= C7=7P?D;$$$ FBKI ;NJH7
summer camping guide! MMM$B?L;<EHJ>;EKJ:EEHI$9EC
@KD; (&&/ )$/&
J>; ) F;7AI ): =K?:;
8[d D[l_i twhaeybteost walk the m IdemZed IYW\[bb F_a[ ;NFBEH;
9W_hd]ehci
:_iYel[h j^[_h m_bZ i_Z[
1C4E routes + maps K
DJ7?D M7BAI J>; B B7A;I 7D: I9 ?D M7B;I" EJB7D:
7bfi
Oekh Óhij *&&&c f[Wa J;IJ;:
Ib[[f_d] XW]i
M[bi^ )&&&[hi
8_] Y^Wbb[d][" d[m jm_ij
72 cool campsites top tents new kit wild camping skills
87I; 97CF
Welsh 3000ers Trail makes hisTory A neW WeBSITe AIMS TO ReCORD The effORTS Of eveRyOne WhO COMPleTeS The WelSh 3000eRS – AnD Trail WAnTeD TO Be fIRST TO lOG ITS TIMe… Words Matt Swaine
MATTheW SWAIne
B
ooking for a challenge that will immerse you in the hills? That’s steeped in mountain history and commands the respect of the hill cognoscenti? One that won’t take a lifetime to complete? Then climbing all 14 Welsh 3,000ft mountains are for you. And if you’re hankering for something to hang in the loo afterwards, then get your boots at the ready… because the Snowdonia Society has launched a website where you can register your achievement and get hold of an official ’14 Peaks 3000 Cymru’ certificate. “People have been doing this challenge for almost 100 years,” explains Alun Pugh, the director of the Snowdonia Society. “But unlike the Scottish Munros there has never been an official register of everyone who’s completed it. We wanted to put that right.” So Trail set out from Pen-y-Pass in the early hours of the morning with Alun and society trustee Rob Collister to discover just how difficult the Welsh 3000ers are. “This isn’t the kind of challenge that works as a mass participation event. Just imagine hundreds of people attempting Crib Goch at the same time,” said Alun, as the sun rose near the summit of Snowdon. “It’s best savoured with a small group of enthusiasts, and it appeals to those people who’ve got sound hill experience. It’s a big challenge which a fit hill-walker can finish in 12-14 hours, but you could do it over a couple of days by wild camping or using hostels.” The record for the route – a blistering 4 hours 19 minutes – was set by fell-runner Colin Donnelly in 1988, and an earlier record from 1938 gives the Snowdonia ½
[[1l]] Trail June 2009
In a gruelling but rather insignificant way
Crib Goch in descent in the early morning – an unforgettable experience.
sort g reasonably Still feelin ers. yd Gl e th h on of semi- fres
Dropping off El idir Fawr after a gruell ing ascent.
Spare socks and a fresh top made the difference.
Mountain Gu ide Rob Collis ter takes on ßui ds.
Rob and Joh n on our supp ort stop in the Ogwen Valley . edd r 10 Ð on Carn Peak numbe ay. aw s ep se e sun Dafydd as th
The summit of Snowdon at 6. 50 Ð weÕve got it al l to ourselve s!
June 2009 Trail [[2r]]
CEKDJ7?D =;D?KI IA?BBI
NAVIGATE OFF A
Lyle Brotherton is a member of Tweed Valley Mountain Rescue and trains NASA rescue teams. Here he shares his tips for taking a bearing:
MISTY SUMMIT This sort of scenario is crunch time for nav skills, so make sure you are prepared for that inevitable day!
assume the brace position as above with your back facing the wind, and place the map on your knee.
1
FWY_d] t taking a bearing is only half the story. in order to navigate over a twisting and turning course, you need to be able to accurately judge distances. in clear conditions you can do this by ticking off distinct features or by timing. in poor visibility a good alternative is pacing. at home, measure out 100m, then walk it and count how many double paces it takes. then use this number to measure distances when navigating.
9edjekh_dj[hfh[jWj_ed in the hills landform is the most reliable navigational feature. Fences, walls and tracks may change, but landform, represented by contour lines, stays the same (as well as rock markings and streams). by being able to interpret what contour intervals and shapes mean on the ground, you can readily work out if a slope is convex or concave, whether it is a ridge or a col, and if it is safe to walk up or down.
=FIh[Y[_l[hi like all tools there is a wrong way and a right way to use them. if you are fully conversant and have had plenty of practice, then a GPS can prove to be a very efficient form of navigation in poor visibility. you can even preload tracks and escape routes. y a good navigator will use a GPS in parallel with a map and compass.
FbWdd_d] WdZ Ô[n_X_b_jo Poor visibility happens, and when you are on the hill you simply have to deal with it. However, with a bit of forecastwatching on the days leading up to your walk, you can get a fairly accurate idea of what conditions are going to be like. if it looks as if it is going to be dodgy, then plan your route accordingly. Pick a route that is easier to navigate with distinct features, and avoid featureless plateaux or moorland.
“With a GPS, if the route you travelled onto the mountain was safe you can follow this route back to your start using its Track-Back feature.” Lyle Brotherton: www.micronavigation.org
Tip
“All year round, pack your map, compass, hat, gloves and headtorch,” says Wasdale Mountain Rescue’s Saffron Price-Walter. “Put them in your rucksack’s top pocket for quick access.”
[[1l]] trail June 2009
in association with
www.cotswoldoutdoor.com
make sure that the direction-of-travel arrow on the compass points in the direction you wish to go, from a to b.
3
Rotate the compass bezel until its north arrow points north on the map (always the top of the map). to make this precise, check that the red or black orienting lines inside the bezel are parallel with the map’s blue vertical grid lines.
4
Put the compass on the map over where you wish to take a bearing from.
2
Use the black ruler line on the compass to join where you are, point a, to where you wish to travel to, point b.
A
B
the reading on the compass index is your grid bearing. as magnetic north moves around relative to grid (map) north, you need to add the correct number of degrees of magnetic declination to this, found in the map key, and adjust the bezel accordingly for a magnetic bearing.
5
6
With the magnetic bearing set, hold the compass squarely out in front of you at about waist height and lean slightly over to look down on it. let the compass needle float freely to magnetic north. Holding the compass, rotate your body till the red end of the compass needle (north) is exactly over and aligned with the red arrow inside the bezel. the direction-oftravel arrow is now pointing towards your destination. look directly in this direction and line up a distant landmark. Walk to it, then repeat with another landmark until pacing, timing or features tell you that you need to change your direction.
7
FioY^ebe]o Clear thinking is essential for accurate navigation. Panic leads to rushed and often bad decisions. Practice, routine, spatial awareness and trust in your map and compass help to eliminate this situation. at home in your garden try taking bearings and pacing legs of a circuit, but do it under a blanket to simulate mist. the more you do it, the more confident you will become. on the hill don’t wait until the mist descends; keep prepared by building up a mental picture of your route and constantly compare it with the map.
2
Free skill booster! Mountain Instructor Stuart Johnston shows you how to take a bearing correctly at www.lfto.com/bearing
?dikbWj_ed
tom bailey
Standing around on a summit even in summer can be a core-chilling experience, so make sure you wrap up to concentrate on navigation and avoid rushed decisions. ttake a tip from climbers and have a ‘belay jacket’ ready. this is a roomy insulation layer to throw on quickly over other layers. Put on your hat and gloves too to stay as warm as possible.
you
“I did my summer ML assessment expedition in torrential rain and gales,” says forum user Buffy. “On Carnedd Llewelyn in strong wind I had to be held down by a fireman in our group. I passed.” June 2009 trail [[2r]]
)#I;7IED IODJ>;J?9 IB;;F?D= 87=I ED J;IJ
.& CEKDJ7?D ;GK?FC;DJ IJ7HB?=>J ???
.+ >7=BE<I IBKC8;H )I
/+ '&& @79A MEB<IA?D IDK=F7A JEK9> J>; 9BEK: IE<J?; / >7MA
JH7?BH7J?D= 11111
JH7?BH7J?D= 11111
JH7?BH7J?D= 11111
JH7?BH7J?D= 11111
Quite a wide bag for unrestricted user comfort. It has ME’s shark’s toe footbox, which is shaped to contour around the feet, maximising warmth and eliminating heat-sapping dead space. The fulllength two-way zip has a glow-in-thedark zip pull, is secured at the top by a Velcro tab and has a minimalist draught baffle. There’s a good-sized shoulder baffle and protective, contoured hood. The bag is soft and comfortable against the skin, and the soft insulation keeps the heat in once you’ve built it up inside. There’s a small external pocket too. The outer fabric repels water splashes well.
The Slumber is a roomy, comfy, mummy-shaped bag. The full-length two-way zip has a double baffle to help eliminate heat loss, and the large shoulder baffle further seals heat inside the bag. The hood is very protective and well-shaped while the hood and shoulder baffle drawcords are a mix of tape and bungee cord so you can tell them apart at night. The fabric is pleasant against the skin and the bag quickly feels warm inside. The outer fabric has a very good DWR coating for shedding water and it will be tough, being made of polyamide. The foot box is wellshaped and roomy, and there’s a small pocket for keeping essentials to hand.
A slim-fit mummy-style bag with a nicely shaped foot box with room for big feet if lying on your back. There’s a large shoulder baffle with bungee adjustment and a neat hood with mixed tape and cord adjusters. The three-quarter length two-way zip runs mostly snag-free and is secured by Velcro. There are a few unusual features, including Health Guard anti-mosquito treatment, whose antibacterial effect could keep the bag fresher in the long term. Under the hood is a Velcroed pocket where you can stuff clothing to make a pillow. It feels warm and the inner fabric is okay against bare skin. The outer fabric has a good water-resistant finish too.
The Snugpak is a slimfitting mummy shape, with the bare essentials for warmth and protection. The full-length two-way zip has a draught baffle plus a ribbon of stiff material to prevent snagging, and this works well. The hood is wide and roomy with a simple drawcord, and with it tightened right in you have great cocoonlike protection. The Softie insulation is thick, warm, compressible for packing and quite soft. The Paratex fabric is very water-resistant and feels tough yet is soft against skin. The well-shaped foot area has reinforcement against boots – a sign of Snugpak’s military heritage, as are the D rings for hanging the bag up to air.
The drawcords are tricky to use, it’s hard to get the shoulder baffle tight and the hood bunches up around the face. The zip baffle barely covers the zip, potentially allowing a cold spot. The big size means it takes longer to feel warm inside this bag. It has a big packed size and is heavy too.
The zip snags quite often. More importantly it’s a -11 deg C bag, so it is warmer, heavier and bulkier than it needs to be. The £75 Slumber 2S is a -5 bag and a better option, but that still weighs 1700g, so it’s still quite heavy.
Although the inner fabric is soft enough, the stitched seams are quite noticeable against the skin. The hood bunches around your forehead and is hard to adjust when the bag is done up due to the position of the cordlock. The bag also feels slightly tight on my torso.
There’s no shoulder baffle, which some will miss as it leaves the user relying on cinching in the basic hood to prevent heat loss. The hood drawcord is one length of cord for both halves and the cord lock isn’t retained, so adjusting it can be awkward.
it’s good
But
Manufacturer’s temp. rating Comfort rating (deg C)
-10
Claimed
-5
0
+5
Fine for year-round campsite use, but the fit is too baggy to allow this to feel really warm. Verdict
L?J7B IJ7JI Size 220x80x46cm Shell lightweight honeycomb ripstop nylon inner polyamide Construction shingle insulation Polarloft Micro Packed size 40x23cm; 25x23cm compressed Weight 1985g (bag only); 2015g with stuffsack Made in China Stores in the UK 95
[[1l]] trail June 2009
it’s good
But
Manufacturer’s temp. rating Comfort rating (deg C)
Claimed
-10
-5
0
+5
It’s warm and comfortable, but the temperature rating is warmer than it needs to be for a 3-season bag, which adds to the weight when packing. Verdict
L?J7B IJ7JI Size 230x75x42cm Shell 75D and 210D Oxford polyamide inner 50D polyester Construction 2-layer thermal insulation Trifusion Packed size 46x28cm; 23x28cm compressed Weight 2008g (bag only); 2200g with stuffsack Made in China Stores in the UK 5
it’s good
But
Manufacturer’s temp. rating Comfort rating (deg C)
-10
Claimed
-5
0
+5
There are some good features, but packed size and weight are drawbacks, while the insect repellency makes it good for use on foreign trips. Verdict
L?J7B IJ7JI Size 215x73x43cm Shell 40D mini ripstop and diamond ripstop inner moisture control Construction 2-layer loose layer differential cut with Thermozining insulation Microguard soft silver Packed size 40x25cm; 27x25cm compressed Weight 1567g (bag only); 1715g with stuffsack Made in China Stores in the UK 50
it’s good
But
Manufacturer’s temp. rating Comfort rating (deg C)
-10
Claimed
-5
0
+5
A comfortable UK-made bag for users who don’t need features such as a shoulder baffle or the easiest adjustability. Verdict
L?J7B IJ7JI Size 200x42x72cm Shell Paratex Extreme with DWR inner Paratex Light Construction single profile insulation Softie Premier Packed size 22x36cm; 22x23cm compressed Weight 1465g (bag only); 1590g with stuffsack Made in UK Stores in the UK100
JH7?B 8;IJ ?D J;IJ
'&& CEKDJ7?D >7H:M;7H B7C?D7 (&
'&& L7K:; A?EM7 87I?9 ((&
JH7?BH7J?D= 11111
JH7?BH7J?D= 11111
This mummy-shaped bag is cut a little wider at the legs for comfort. Its two-way full-length zip runs smoothly with little snagging. A large shoulder baffle seals in the heat, and the hood, though basic, fitted well. The drawcords for the hood and shoulder baffle are split into tape and bungee, so in the dark you can adjust the correct one. The inner fabric is pleasant against the skin, while the insulation feels warm and soft. The outer fabric has very good water resistance and is very smooth. The weight is good and the bag compresses down well into the supplied stuffsack. It has a small internal pocket and comes with a large storage bag as standard.
The Kiowa has a wide mummy shape, and a roomy foot area with an extra internal baffle, for extra insulation around your feet – an area that is often the first to suffer in the cold. The full-length two-way zip has a full-length baffle to prevent heat loss and is reasonably snag-free in its own channel. It’s also secured at the hood to prevent accidental opening in your sleep. The hood itself is roomy and protective, and a shoulder baffle seals in the heat. The outer fabric feels robust and sheds initial spills well, but if not wiped up water will soak in. The inner fabric is soft, and the bag feels warm and comfy. There’s a large internal mesh pocket for your essentials.
The zip has no Velcro tab to hold it secure at the hood, and rather than a standard-style zip baffle, the main zip has a channel of insulation sewn in such a way that it partially covers the zip.
The hood drawcords, although colour-coded and of slightly different diameters, are both made from bungee cord and are therefore hard to tell apart in the dark, while the neck baffle bungee cord is sticky in operation. Others are lighter for the same temperature rating.
it’s good
But
Manufacturer’s temp. rating Comfort rating (deg C)
-10
Claimed
-5
0
+5
A warm and comfortable bag, light and packable enough to carry into the hills. Potential cold spots at the zip let it down slightly. Verdict
L?J7B IJ7JI Size 220cmx80cmx40cm Shell 40D nylon ripstop inner 40D polyester taffeta Construction welded layer insulation Thermic Micro Packed size 36x20cm; 27x20cm compressed Weight 1360g (bag only); 1465g with stuffsack Made in Far East Stores in the UK 150
it’s good
But
Manufacturer’s temp. rating Comfort rating (deg C)
-10
Claimed
-5
0
+5
This is a comfortable option and it compresses down well, but it is not very warm for a 3-season bag. Verdict
L?J7B IJ7JI Size 260x76x39cm Shell 20D 400T ripstop polyester inner 30D 270T polyester Construction 2-layer insulation 7D Hollofibre, 3D solid fibre, 1.4D Sensofil Microfibre Packed size 40x24cm; 24x24cm compressed Weight 1420g (bag only); 1540g with stuffsack Made in Far East Stores in the UK no info provided
IJE9A?IJ :;J7?BI Haglöfs – tel. (01934) 877998; www.haglofs.se Jack Wolfksin – tel. (01434) 633363;www.jack-wolfskin.com Marmot – tel. (01539) 563616; www.marmot.com Mountain Equipment – tel. (0161) 366 5020; www.mountain-equipment.co.uk Mountain Hardwear – tel. (01572) 72449; www.mountainhardwear.com Outwell – tel. (01937) 591101; www.outwell.co.uk Snugpak – tel. (01535) 654499; www.snugpak.com the North Face – tel. (01539) 738882; www.thenorthface.com Vango – tel. (01475) 746000; www.vango.co.uk Vaude – tel. (01665) 510660; www.vaude-uk.com
June 2009 trail [[2r]]
=;J 97CF?D= I?J;I
9EEB 97CFI?J;I ;D=B7D:
Birds are singing, the sun’s high in the sky and the hills are green again. With the longer hours of daylight that summertime finally brings, there’s never been a better time to throw your tent into your rucksack and truly immerse yourself in the outdoors for days at a time. But where to stay? Whether you’re on your own and want to be within spitting distance (literally) of some of the highest peaks in the country, or hauling the family with you and need more to entertain the novice hill-walkers too, here’s where you’ll find your perfect campsite. From far-reaching views of the Lakeland fells to easy access for the Yorkshire Three Peaks, these campsites ooze cool…
=?BBI?:; <7HC
Lake District
NY381168 017684 82346; www. gillsidecaravanand campingsite.co.uk Stay here and walk up… Helvellyn It’s cool because the track that takes you to Helvellyn and Striding Edge runs alongside the site.
NY315052 01539 437150 Stay here and walk up… Crinkle Crags, Bowfell, Langdale Pikes It’s cool because it’s an ideal base for walkers
I?:; <7HC
NY398163 017684 82337 Stay here and walk up… Helvellyn or High Street It’s cool because not
and those partial to a spot of mountain biking as it offers fantastic views and is close to the auspiciously named Wainwrights Inn where you can grab a post-walk Wainwright Ale.
only can you enjoy great views of Helvellyn and Ullswater but you’re also at the right spot to hop on the lake’s steamers at Glenridding.
WORDS phOebe SMIth PHOTOGRAPHS COOl CaMpING
South/ south-west
;M;B;7P; <7HC
SY706822 01305 833690; www.eweleaze.co.uk Stay here and walk… along the Jurassic Coast It’s cool because from the site you can see the Isle of Portland, which offers fantastic climbing opportunities.
[[1l]] traIl June 2009
<KBB 9?H9B;
IOA; <7HC
87OI8HEMD <7HC
NY173171 017687 70222 Stay here and walk up… Haystacks, High Crag and Red Pike It’s cool because you’re in easy walking distance
M7I:7B; >;7: NY183076 019467 26220; www. nationaltrust.org.uk Stay here and walk up… Scafell Pike, Bowfell and Great Gable It’s cool because
B?JJB; C;7:EM
SS552480 01271 866862; www. littlemeadow.co.uk Stay here and walk… the South West Coast Path It’s cool because the long distance path runs right past the site and you’ll get magnificent sea views from your tent.
of some fantastic fells, yet tucked away in a quiet valley away from the holiday crowds.
location, location, location! You’ll be able to plan your ascent of several of the surrounding fells while sitting in your tent with a cup of tea. It doesn’t get much better than that.
JH;;D <7HC
SW391227 01736 810273; www. treenfarmcampsite.co.uk Stay here and walk… three miles along the South West Coast Path to Land’s End It’s cool because it’s a stone’s throw from some of Cornwall’s finest beaches and cliff walks.
8B79A8;HHO MEE:
tQ352146 01279 890035; www.blackberrywood.com Stay here and walk… along the South Downs Way It’s cool because you get to select your own section of woodland clearing to pitch your tent in, and a 45 minute walk will take you to a high point on the long distance path for outstanding views.
NY365063 07975 671928; www. lake-district-yurts.co.uk Stay here and walk up… Fairfield and Red Screes It’s cool because you
get to stay in an authentic Mongolian yurt without having to fork out for a long-haul flight, and you can head off for a day’s hill-walk straight from the site.
JKHD;H >7BB <7HC SD234963 01229 716420; www. duddonvalley.co.uk Stay here and walk up… Scafell Pike and The Old Man of Coniston It’s cool because you’ll
enjoy a truly remote and wild camping experience with the luxury of toilets and hot showers while staying in a fantastic location for some of the best walks in the Lakes.
9E9A?D=<EH: <7HC SX717750 01364 621258 Stay here and walk up… the hills of southern Dartmoor starting with Wind Tor
It’s cool because it’s tucked away deep in Dartmoor, in a stunning setting next to a stream, high in the hills, away from the crowds.
Northumberland
:;C;ID; <7HC NY839831 01434 220258; www. demesnefarmcampsite. co.uk Stay here and walk… along the Pennine Way It’s cool because it’s right on the Pennine Way long distance path and located close to Hadrian’s Wall too.
>7:H?7DÊI M7BB 97CFI?J;
NY731657 01434 320495; www.romanwall camping.co.uk Stay here and walk… along the Hadrian’s Wall Path It’s cool because you get to sleep close to this historic Roman structure and if you’re walking the 84 mile National Trail the campsite owners will arrange transport to and from your start/finish points.
Powered by Cool Camping England www.coolcamping.co.uk
Peak District & Yorkshire
>EEAI >EKI; <7HC
NZ945057 01947 880283; www.hookshousefarm.co.uk Stay here and walk along … as much of Wainwright’s Coast-to-Coast as you dare It’s cool because you get to wake up to panoramic views of the ocean before embarking on a classic long distance walk that takes in three National Parks: the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales and the North York Moors.
=EH:7B; I97H 97CFI?J;
KFF;H 8EEJ> <7HC
SK102852 01433 670250; www.upperboothcamping.co.uk Stay here and walk up… Kinder Scout It’s cool because of the superb Peak District views that surround you, and the easy access to the Kinder Plateau and the Pennine Way long distance path.
AD?=>J IJ7?D<EHJ> >7BB SD817670 01729 822200; www.knightstainforth.co.uk Stay here and walk up… Pen-y-ghent, Ingleborough and Whernside It’s cool because it’s in the perfect place for those wanting to walk the Pennine Way, use one of the cycle- or bridleways, or climb Yorkshire’s Three Peaks.
SD914634 01729 830333 Stay here and walk up… Malham Cove It’s cool because you get to camp right next to the iconic Gordale Scar, giving you easy access to for climbing opportunities both here and at nearby Malham Cove.
DEHJ> B;;I
B7 HEI7
SK235833 01433 650838 Stay here and walk up… Stanage Edge It’s cool because if you want to indulge in some climbing then you’re in the perfect place as the path from the campsite leads easily to the gritstone cliff of ‘The Edge’.
Shropshire C?::B; MEE:87J9> <7HC
SO297882 07989 496875; www.middlewoodbatch farm.co.uk Stay here and walk up… The Stiperstones to check out Devil’s Chair ridge It’s cool because you’re surrounded by the rolling Shropshire hills and within easy distance of some great walks, plus you can request a homecooked organic dinner from the farmhouse to eat in your tent – tasty!
NZ816026 01947 606981; www.larosa.co.uk Stay here and walk in… the North York Moors National Park It’s cool because you’ll have an unforgettable experience. There’s no tent camping: it’s all in retro trailers, each themed with colourful kitsch; there’s a massive circus tent that serves as the communal area; and it’s surrounded by beautiful moorland.
M; H;9ECC;D:¾
>7H:>KHIJ <7HC SK185829 01433 620001 Stay here and walk up… Win Hill It’s cool because it’s right next to Hope Station so you don’t have to bring your car, it’s in the heart of the Peak District and it’s great value for money! Claire Maxted, trail’s features writer
F7HA >EKI; 97CFI?J;
SK189708 01629 640463 Stay here and walk… the Coast-to-Coast or Pennine Way It’s cool because it’s situated in Keld where these long distance paths cross each other. There’s a converted barn for you to do your cooking in if there’s bad weather, and you’re surrounded by some fantastic landscape. Mark reid, WGL and long distance walker
<?I>;H=HEKD: 97CFI?J;
NY178010 01946 723349; www.fisherground campsite.co.uk Stay here and walk up… Scafell Pike It’s cool because it has easy access to England’s highest peak, and its own steam train. It’s also within walking distance of some great pubs. Jeremy ashcroft, trail’s mountaineering editor
IAO;I?:; 97CF?D= F7HA
NY402119 01768 482239; www.sykeside.co.uk Stay here and walk up… Dove Crag It’s cool because it’s got a pub on site and is set against the stunning backdrop of Dove Crag (where you can explore Priest’s Hole cave), Hart Crag, Fairfield and Brothers Water. Graham tthompson, ttrail’s technical editor
June 2009 traIl [[2r]]
'*JH7?B HEKJ; 8EKB:;H?D= never more than a few feet off the floor, it allows you to concentrate on the physical act of simply overcoming a problem. It is also a very accessible: anybody with a mind to climb can do it, and there are literally hundreds of venues all over the country where you can get to grips with it, from the foot of crags and in corries, through to open moorland and around our more rugged sections of coast. Although it started out as a way of refining climbing skills, in recent years it has become very much a sport in its own right – and a whole infrastructure of information and ethics has developed. The benefits to climbers are obvious, while less obvious are the benefits to scramblers. The link between fingertip holds and long mountain routes with big holds might seem a bit tenuous, but in reality it’s a similar game. If you give it a go you will gain greatly from vastly improved movement skills and confidence. Learning to balance and utilise small holds opens up a whole new perspective on scrambling. Instead of stuttering and clumsy rock-hugging shuffles, you will learn to move confidently and in complete control. Knowing how to use holds and to apply friction will give you more options when things get problematic on a scramble. Wherever you live in Britain you are very unlucky if you are more than an hour from a bouldering venue. Here we look at three classic starter venues and give you a sample of what’s available. They are in the hills, but there are hundreds of others out there – so check out the web or get hold of a guidebook and give it a go.
8EKB:;H?D= =H7:;I
There is some confusion within bouldering circles about which grading system to use. In Britain you will find that in some rock-climbing guides, bouldering routes are graded using the technical rock-climbing grades ranging from 4a upwards. If you are familiar with traditional rock-climbing you will recognise the system as the way the hardest moves on a pitch are graded. This is generally only done on routes graded with adjective grades of Hard Severe or above; for example you might get a Hard Severe that has a 4a move as its crux or a Very Severe that has a crux of 4c. This system is a bit limited for bouldering, so in bouldering guides you will either find the V grades as created by the iconic American boulderer John Sherman or the ‘Font’ grades, which originated from the French forcing ground at the
boulderfields of Fontainebleau near Paris. Both are open-ended, allowing for future developments. So far most guidebooks in Britain use the V system (this might change), which is what we have used for our brief route selection. The bottom grade is V0, which is actually pitched quite high. It’s the sort of problem you might find on a Very Severe rock-climb, so this bottom grade has been further sub-divided by adding a plus or a minus. You might feel this is still too high, but the great joy of bouldering is that because you are climbing only a few feet off the deck you can climb much harder than you would if you where psyched out by lots of exposure. Most people with a little effort will manage a V0 problem.
7
8
9
:
;
<
=
>
=;7H
A pair of rock boots and a chalk bag are really all you need to get started. If you get into bouldering then a crash pad is a good investment and will help take the strain out of landings. An old toothbrush might also come in handy for cleaning holds, but that mostly applies when you get good!
8EKB:;H?D= >EB:I On scrambles and easy rock-climbs, holds tend to be big and very obvious. You will still find these ‘jug’-type features on boulder problems, but most holds used are generally much smaller or require different techniques to employ. The most basic hold is the crimp, this is a small in-cut that you can either use with a locked grip (a), or with an open grip (b). Similar features lying vertically can be used as a pinch (c). Small pockets or indentations can be utilised by slotting a finger or two in them (d). Even pebbles or rugosités (wrinkles) can be used for feet (e). Friction plays a key part both for hands (f) and feet (g). If your grip fails then a crash pad (h) softens the landing, particularly if the ground is uneven. If you are bouldering with friends, they can stand below ready to ‘spot’ (field) you to make sure you land upright. Once boulder problems get above that magic height where fear kicks in they are known as ‘highball’ problems (i).
JOHN WATSON, STONE COUNTRY PRESS
JEHH?:ED
9[bj_Y @kcXb[ Enjoying the super -grippy Torridon red sandstone of the Celtic Jumble.
HEKJ;% * FHE8B;CI ' Layback Arête (V0) + ( The Rampline (V1) , Frantic (V10) – off the ) radar for most, but -
½½ Thanks to John Watson at Stone Country for permission to use the problem descriptions and grades: www.stonecountry.co.uk North Wall Traverse (V1)
. Black Wall (V0) / Spaceship Slab (V0) '& Mantel (V2) '' Left Arête (V1)
Evening Wall (V1) Arête (V3) Morning Wall (V0)
'( Bramble Crack (V0) ') North Wall (V1) '* Indentation (V1) '+ Dinosaur (V2)
worth a look for inspiration! Diabaig
craggy terraces
SYHA Torridon
3
crags
Slot Walls
6 8
Wave Wall
9
11 12
4 campsite
Celtic Boulder
2
1 5
Morning Wall
7
10
13 Angel Walls
14
Loch Torridon
The Ship
P
15
bog
A896
Shieldaig
trail June 2009
Kinlochewe
JH7?B '* JEHH?:ED B7A; :?IJH?9J HEKJ; *%'87
Getting into balance on The Groove at Brant Fell.
Middlesbrough
Keswick Kendal Lancaster
B7A; :?IJH?9J
8hWdj <[bb ?
*%'87 Ullapool
Mallaig
location Torridon, NG908557 approach a two minute walk through the gap between the roadside plantations. It is boggy, so wear boots rather than approach shoes Nearest town Dingwell terrain a boulder-strewn terrace at the base of Liathach. Dries relatively quickly after rain with a breeze. Avoid in still conditions as the midges can be bad Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) 433; Harvey Superwalker
(1:25,000) Torridon; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 25 Buy maps at www. ordnancesurvey.co.uk/ mapshop accommodation hotel and bunkhouse at Kinlochewe Hotel – tel. (01445) 760253 or www.kinlochewehotel. co.uk; Glen Torridon Youth Hostel – tel. (01445) 791284; campsite close to the access point for the boulders Public transport none (the postbus service to Torridon has now been withdrawn) tourist info Ullapool and Gairloch: for both – tel. 0845 225 5121 Best pub Kinlochewe Hotel Guidebook Bouldering in Scotland by John Watson, pb Stone Country Press covers all the problems at Torridon and at numerous other sites across the whole of Scotland. Available from www.cordee. co.uk or – tel. (0116) 254 3579
HEKJ;%FHE8B;CI Main wall * ' Problem 1 (V0+) + ( Problem 2 (V0+) , ) Problem 3 (V0+) -
Problem 4 (V0+) The Groove (V0) The Mono (V0+) Problem 7 (V0)
lower slab The tops of each of these routes are high and are classed as ‘highball’.
. Slab Left (V0+) / Slab Central (V0) '& Slab Right (V0+)
Ingleton Bentham Skipton
location at the summit of a small fell south-east of Bowness-on-Windermere (SD409961) approach Brant Fell is a real hidden gem, with great entry-level bouldering and stunning views of almost the whole length of Windermere lake. It is a small crag rather than a boulder and is comprised of a steep main wall and a lower, easierangled slab. It is reached from the B5284 Crook road by following the minor road off it for 400m to a layby by a gate (park carefully and do not block the gate). A footpath leads north-west from here: follow it for about 200m to another gate. Pass through the gate, turn left off the path and climb to the summit of Brant Fell. The bouldering walls are just below the summit on the south-west side Nearest town Bownesson-Windermere terrain with a flat, grassy base and a sunny aspect this is an idyllic spot. It dries quickly after rain but being near a summit it is slightly exposed to wind, particularly from the south-west Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL7; British Mountain Maps (1:40,000) Lake District; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 97 Buy maps at www. ordnancesurvey.co.uk/ mapshop accommodation B&Bs and hotels in Windermere; Windermere Youth Hostel – tel. 0845 371 9352 Public transport trains to Windermere and buses to Bowness-on-Windermere – tel. 0870 608 2608 tourist info Bowness Bay TIC – tel. (015394) 42895 or visit www.golakes.co.uk Best pub Masons Arms, Bowland Bridge – tel. (015395) 68486
½½ Thanks to Rockfax for permission to use the problem descriptions and grades: www.rockfax.com
½ ½ ½