T he M en ’s F ashion I ssue
IN THIS ISSUE Wow, it is December already, the close of another year and the close of the first decade of the 21st Century. Where does time go? Although the year has flown by, the cooler temperatures, fall/winter fashions and a holiday spirit are always a welcomed change of pace. With that, we turn to what is important around our offices at the end of the year, what will be in our men’s fashion issue. Focusing on the male gender and their fashion, always gets a high five around the workplace, as it makes the men feel they are finally on equal footing with the female contingent. Our fashion muse this time around is the well-dressed man, in all his wonderful incarnations. We mix in the classics with an edgy twist of trends, giving any man on your list numerous options to choose from. Cultural Distinctions brings us back to London and to The National Gallery for a look
at art as a visual medium for teaching primary school children. The resulting artwork proves that there are plenty of budding Pollacks and Picassos amongst us. Travel takes us to Istanbul, notably Bosphorus, to take in the sites, sounds and tastes of the city. We explore cool shopping spots, beautiful mosques, bookshops and more. If clothes make the person, then designer Jill Sander, creator of Jill Sander for Uniqlo, is the modern day sewing saint of minimalistic chic. We analyse her influence on today’s fashion and learn what made her renew her Uniqlo design deal. Man and his love of machines takes a look at the new Wiesmann MF3 Roadster and the company First Class on the Road touring company. Who knew taking the curves of the mountains could be so luxurious at break neck speeds? What guy doesn’t love sports? Especially the chance to play one of the luxury sports
associated with uber playboys, beautiful women and thoroughbreds — polo. Our roving reporter checks in on the hoopla behind the latest ultra sport-filled vacations. However, if thrill-seeking adventure is more your thing, then we have the perfect vacation/challenge for you in the form of the Jason Bourne Adventure from Quintessentially. An espionage-filled, cloak and dagger vacation cum assignment. Martinis are optional, of course. The military-inspired bomber jacket made a fashionable return during the FW 2010 season. There were only a few runways that did not show some version of it. We look back at its humble beginnings and its haute incarnations. With each issue of INDULGE, we encourage our readers to reach out to us and share their thoughts and ideas, so do enjoy the issue and drop us a line at indulge@khaleejtimes.com Stephanie Rivers, Editor, INDULGE
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TA B L E O F CO N T E N T S
RE: DEFINE Give Good Face
Cool New Products to Help Put Your Best Face Forward/xx
Cultural Distinction
To The Maxxi in Rome We Go/xx
48 Hrs in Beirut
The Ever Evolving Hotspot of the Middle East/xx
Sport Extreme
How Far Will You Go for an Extreme Adventure?/xx
Rules of Engagement The Are of Conversation/xx
A Flight to No Where
Costa Rico’s Luxe 727 Hotel Suite/xx
A Bomber Renaissance
What’s Old is New and Chic Again/xx,
INDULGE
the men’s fashion issue
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TA B L E O F CO N T E N T S
INDULGE
the men’s fashion issue
RE: ACQUAINT
Model Chef Helena Rizzo is the Toque of the Town/xx
RE: BIRTH
Hip, Haute, Homme: The Well-Dressed Man/xx
RE: WIND
Catching the Bosphorus Fever: Taking a Tour of Istanbul/xx
RE: LAX
Mancaves: Regional Pampering for Men/xx
RE: VIEW
Where to get it, how to find it/xx
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EDITORIAL Executive Editor Patrick Michael Indulge Editor Stephanie Rivers Copy Editors Karen Ann Monsy
Burberry FW 2010 Chic Embellished Outwear Burberry, Dubai Mall
PRODUCTION Design Rivers By Design Technical Director Khaled Abu Romman ADVERTISING Director Haroon Qureshi Senior Advertising Manager Mamta Pillai Account Group Manager(Coordinator) Dunstan W.
The Essentials of A Well-Dressed Man FW 2010 Hip, Haute, Homme
COMMERCIAL PRINTING Marketing Manager S Imran Shariff A Publication of Galadari Printing & Publishing
Khaleej TImes P.O. Box 11243, Dubai, UAE Editorial: +971-4-4050754 Fax: +971-4-3384265 Advertising: +971-4-4050817, e-mail: indulge@khaleejtimes.com
INDULGEKT.COM Contributing Writers: Melanie Beckwith, Mark Ellwood, Roula Ghayalini , Anna Hansen, Amber Jones, Stephen Joyner, Shadi Moazami, Marie Riviera Hot, Haute, Homme: Photographer, Hussain Jian; Model,
It begins in the pages of the magazine and ends online.
Paul F. for Bareface; Makeup and Hair, Dennie Pasion; Fashion Director, Stephanie Rivers; Stylists, Farah Kreidieh and S. Marie T he
M en
’s F as hi
on
i ss ue
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There are a plethora of luxury skincare lines on the market, however, few are tailored to the needs of the male gender’s skin. That is until now. The new line Alford & Hoff has changed the face of luxury skincare, bringing it to the forefront for men and what a wonderful discovery it is. Understanding this omission in the marketplace, Alford & Hoff has capitalised by researching and developing a line of luxury products that address everyday needs as well as the long-term needs of the modern man, aging skin. With products based on their Sirtuin-activating xxxxx complex - the latest inxxxxx anti-agingxxxxx xxxxx xxxxxbiotechnology xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx breakthrough, they help men fine xxxxx lines, xxxxx xxxxx xxxxxkeep xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx wrinkles and sagging at bay with a unique blend xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx of Sirtuin, anti-oxidants, vitamins, amino acids xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx and xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx minerals. xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx The line has everything from cleansers, to shave xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx products, to potent serums, toxxxxx suncare andxxxxx microxxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx dermabrasion kits.xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx Although the line is not in the UAE yet, it is one xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx to watch for and they toxxxxx shipxxxxx abroad. xxxxx are xxxxxwilling xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx A warning though,xxxxx thexxxxx products arexxxxx great soxxxxx the xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx woman in your life may repay youxxxxx forxxxxx always stealing xxxxx xxxxx her products by sneaking off with a few of yours.
Face
MEN’S SKINCARE
ALFORD & HOFF
WHAT’S NEW IN
GivinG GIVING
SPOTLIGHT ON xx
Good GOOD FACE
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Alford & Hoff can be found online at www.alford andhoff.com.
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CULTURAL DISTINCTIONS Out of art into literacy
Located within the National Gallery of London is a wonderful interactive work that celebrates the outcome of two innovative projects — ‘Into the Frame and ‘Out of Art into Storytelling’ — with 1,200 primary school children in London. The exhibit showcases the students’ work after being given the chance to explore the gallery and all it had to offer. The exhibit itself, is the outcome of the extensive training that the grade school teachers received, the new understanding that they derived from it and the influence it had on their teachings. Art, as a learning tool for the pupils had remarkable results, altering the children’s speaking and writing skills within and outside of the classrooms, with the subsequent art pieces being the fruit of their inspired labour . The still life exhibit is accompanied by a film which celebrates the student’s work and reveals the power of a visual medium to transform a child’s means of communication/storytelling and life. Out of Art into Literacy is running at The National Gallery from September 3 through December 2010.
Visionaire 5, Spirit - Tribute to Lee Alexander McQueen
The exclusive fashion and arts bible by Visionaire has collated various editorial and photographic tributes to the late British fashion designer, Alexander McQueen. Entitled Visionaire 58 – Spirit, the limited edition table top book, includes tributes from the likes of Lady Gaga, the eccentric singer and close friend of the designer, famed fashion photographers Mario Testino and Nick Knight, as well as many other contributors from the fashion realm. Together with the moving memories and recollections of the designer himself, the issue also includes various exclusive images of his adored clothing designs. McQueen was first featured in Visionaire in 1996 and since then, his ground breaking and unconventional clothing has regularly been included as inspiration for up and coming designers and industry followers. After his sudden death in February 2010, Spirit is a moving testimony to the designer’s sheer talent not only as a famed public figure with his many celebrity followers (Sarah Jessica Parker, Victoria Beckham and Kate Moss, to name but a few) but also as a key contributor to 21st century fashion that resulted in his being one of the world’s most respected and loved fashion designers. Visionaire 58 will be a limited-edition run of 1500 numbered copies. www.visionaireworld.com.
The Maxxi in Rome – The National Museum of 21st Century Arts
Not only a great work of architecture by Zaha Hadid and winner of the RIBA Stirling, The Maxxi museum in Italy’s capital city is an institution focused entirely on the development of contemporary creativity. Located in the Flaminio area of Rome, visitors to the museum can feast their eyes upon a wealth of aesthetic and innovative workshops, performances and screenings as well as educational projects and exhibitions. The Maxxi foundation includes two museums Maxxi Art and Maxxi Architecture, both famed for their detailed and focused work on progressive and dynamic collections to reflect today’s modern society. Maxxi Art focuses on the latest developments and collections in contemporary Italian art; while the Maxxi Architecture museum appeals to the public as well as architecture professionals. The Maxxi Architecture museum has two separate programmes; the first is historical-critical, dedicated to famous authors and specific themes of modern architectural culture. Whilst the second is of a more experimental and innovative nature, dedicated to the exploration of emerging issues in the contemporary world. Open Sunday – Friday, www.maxxi.beniculturali.it
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FASHIONABLE READS ABC OF MEN’S FASHION
This 1965 classic style guide by Sir Hardy Amie’s, full of witty turns of phrase and expert fashion advice, was reissued at the end of 2007, thank goodness, due to a retrospective at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Anecdotes like “a man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence and put them together with care — only to have forgotten all about them — is reason enough to pick this up and not stop reading until one reaches the end. You can expect advice on everything from the etiquette of dressing for any and all occasions to a in-depth glossary of terms. Amie, a former British secret agent, who set-up shop on Savile row in the ‘40s was known for his sharp tongue and stuffy manner, manages to infuse his book with those attributes but without putting the reader off while doing so. Available and Amazon. com, Barnes & Noble and Borders Books.
DETAILS MEN’S STYLE MANUAL
Anyone that reads Details magazine, is more than likely a fan of their monthly style tips and tricks for the every day Joe looking to be a well-dressed man. Perhaps, you have saved a clipping or two to refer to at a later date or to pass along to your significant other? Maybe you have dropped the ‘not so subtle’ hint of needing to be better dressed, by leaving behind the entire magazine, dog-eared to the style pages. Well, whatever your method, this award-winning magazine has made it easier for today’s man, by combining all of those style tips, modern fashion advice and everything in between into a easily read style guide. The book is also peppered with full colour illustrations of outfits and their explanations of why they work, simplifying one of life’s fashionable conundrums. Available at Amazon.com
MAKE OVER YOUR MAN
Make Over Your Man is the latest style tome from American Style Network fashion guru and celebrity stylist, Lloyd Boston. This stylish book, is a how-to guide geared towards the woman behind the well-dressed man. The title is a bit off putting, as one should never try to change or make anyone over, least of all your partner who is probably visibly resistant to the idea. However, when one is faced with the inevitable question: Honey, does this tie go with this shirt? With this suit? What colour shoes should I wear? One must be wellarmed to intercede and to lead the stylish charge. The book gets to the heart of the matter, how to help your man be his best dressed self, by covering style from head to toe. Lloyd’s approachable manner, detailed explanations, instructive charts and Q & A sections make this one of the definitive books of the season. Available at Barnes & Noble and Amazon.com.
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hours
48in Beriut BY Roula GhaYalini
FRIDAY, 8 AM The alarm goes off and the notion of spending another morning stuck in crazy Beirut traffic, makes me want to pull the covers over my head and fall back asleep again. Instead I realise that I’ve got a shoot with Hiya Magazine in a few hours and still so much to do. I pack my car’s back seat with a selection from my last 3 handbag collections, and 5 different outfits. With my second coffee still in my hand, I feel ready to take on the mad traffic!
10 AM The photographer’s studio is in Sodeco, a small neighbour within the chic Ashrafieh area of Beirut. I walk past Pate a Chou patisserie and my mouth starts to water when I think of their famous ‘Bahamas’ cake – a scrumptious combination of moist chocolate and banana cream. I walk past the desert heaven and make my way to my morning appointment. I spend the next 2 hours posing for a series of shots that will eventually illustrate an article showcasing my artisanal designs to the Arab World. 1 PM I miraculously find an empty parking spot on the street. I search my bag and manage to find enough coins to keep the parking meter happy, For a quick lunch, I hurry into “Le Rouge” a cozy bistro in the heart of the Beirut’s Hamra district – a commercial area of shops, offices and student housing, buzzing with life during the day, and recently at night as well. A sense of nostalgia washes over me, as I momentarily get flashbacks of my high school and university years, the bulk of which were spent in this neighbourhood. Sarah (an old friend visiting for a few days) and I spend our lunch discussing how Hamra was our favourite area in Beirut, and how thrilled we were to see that it was going through a kind of renaissance , with so may new cafes and night spots mushrooming in the tiniest of alleys. 3 PM I head to Saifi Village – a charming cultural hotspot – where I have an appointment with a boutique owner. Saifi Village is a newly renovated area that has a few lo rise apartment blocks but essentially serves as a retail space for art galleries, design objects and artisanal
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clothing. Its tasteful scenery both natural and man - made has made it quite popular with tourists and locals alike.
7 PM I smoothly transition into the weekend as I head to meet some friends at Masrah Beirut – a small modest theatre that houses non - conventional performances. Tonight they are showing a play called Viva La Diva, that is back due to popular demand. It is about a struggling actress, convinced that her failure is essentially just bad luck. An hour and half later, we decided to walk straight down to the Corniche (the walkway by the ocean front) , get a coffee from the traditional Uncle Deek and discuss are favourite parts from the play.
SATURDAY 9 30 AM Alarm goes off – yes even on the weekend – but that’s only because I don’t want to miss my favourite weekly work out – RPM! I put on my cycling gear and I make my way (by car!) to Fitness Zone in Hamra’s Crowne Plaza Hotel. I make my way past, Roadster’s, Deek Duke, and Café Blanc, - all popular restaurants and realise this is probably the only time of day when they’re not overflowing with local teenagers. After an hour of intensive cardiovascular exercise and deafening house music, I quickly check my email and get ready for the rest of my day. 11 00 AM I now head towards the industrial heart of Leba-
famous. At present, there is the In Shape exhibition, themed around everything to do with health and fitness. Once we make our way past the entering crowds, we are welcomed by a rows of eager brand representatives, offering everything from diet chocolate bars to cellulite removing treatments to free manicures.
non – Dora. Hardware workshops, clothing factories, and textile showrooms, are among just a few of the industries that are thriving in one way or another in one of Beirut’s most congested areas. Despite my frequent trips here, I still manage to get lost in the hectic maze. I eventually find my way to my destination, and pick up my new Poupee Couture branded packaging. 2 PM Time to meet the girls in Downtown Beirut. It’s become somewhat of a ritual for us to all meet on Saturday for a late lunch, in the restaurant conveniently named “Downtown”, of generous salad bar, and a few sushi pieces.
I’m always the last one to the table, where they’re usually all hovered over a couple of plates of steamed edamame, exchanging their weekly updates.
930 PM Joe Penas in Gemayzeh, Beirut’s popular nightlife destination, is the location for a friend’s birthday dinner. It’s a great place - an old traditional Lebanese villa with high ceilings and a charming garden. Once you’re past its blue wooden entrance, you’re transported to Cuba. Giant chalkboards host the daily food and cocktail specials, and Salsa blasts from every corner. It takes us about 15 min to greet the familiar faces sprinkled about at a table here and there, until we get to our semi-private party area. A few strawberry daquiris later, we are in our own world and live is very good.
4PM Next destination – Beirut Souks, where we window shop at the exquisite window fronts of Louboutin, Louis Vuitton and Chloe, and then eventually retreat into H & M for some much needed and affordable retail therapy. 6PM We head to Biel – a huge hangar close to the shore- that hosts everything from the annual Auto fair to the weddings of the rich and often
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Sports Extreme:
4 Ways to Test Your Mettle BY MAIRE RIVIERA
T
he saying goes that there is an inner athlete lurking inside of all of us. Clearly they never met my uncle Dan, a man who never learned to ride a bike, can barely stand on ice skates and a ‘swing and a miss’ is the mantra when he is at bat during the annual family picnic. If you have Herculean dreams of being a Olympic athlete, where a bevy of goddesses will greet you and fawn over your athletic prowess and you have practiced your gold medal acceptance speech plus your wave, please know that will never happen. However, you can console yourself with the fact that you can play like an Olympian. You can take an adult snow day and partake in a 9-mile sled excursion through the Austrian Alps, get your Kung Fu fight on with a monk master, heli skydive off of Mt.. Everest or learn to play the sport of kings, polo. Who needs the ordinary beachside retreat, chock full of sunblock, lounge side coladas and a towel boy, when you can have the wind in your face? Intrigued by the frenzied ritual each Olympic season, where all of my male friends get a testosterone surge and start taking on extreme sports, I decided to research what was out there and what it really takes. Now for the black diamond skiers, or
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those who pretend to be, the snow conditions and beauty of the surroundings of Wildkogel Rodelbahn in Neukirchen, Austria. Here you can take that long overdue snow day by sledding down their 8.8 mile tobogganing path, a pulse-quickening adventure hurtling you down the mountain at breakneck speeds. Your vehicle? A traditional sled with rope steering that is low to the ground, allowing you to feel every dip and hairpin turn along the path, with endless snow as far as the eye can see, and steep drop-offs to the side of you. Depending on your chutzpah, the nail biting excursion can take any where from twenty minutes to an hour. Take heart though, if you find half way through you can not take any more, feel free to stop off at the snow tavern and indulge in the swiss speciality of the house. For reservations and more information, contact the resort at +43 0 6565 6405. Of course, if you have been dying to practice your Shaolin and Wushu fight training and have dreamed of staring down a Kung Fu master in a far off locale suitable for Bruce Wayne, perhaps you should consider testing your martial arts metal at the Taining Martial Arts Center in Fuijan Province, China. A short flight, well, not really, will deliver you to the Training grounds, high in the
mountains of Fuijan Province in South East China. Here many forms of Chinese martial arts are practiced — Shaolin, Wushu, White Crane, Bagua and Sanda — taught by some of the best trained masters in China. Students, depending on skill level, stay for one to three months, where you train with a Kung Fu master five days a week, have the opportunity to learn Mandarin and receive accommodations and three meals a day included in the 799 Euro starting price (cost varies depending on length of stay). Once a budding mixed master arrives, he or she selects their preferred form to learn but there are no guarantees, as it depends on how many other students are signed up for the same form. Now to the good part, the school states that many students are able to break a brick in half at the end of their three month stay. However, they fail to state how bricks one had to try to break before being successful with one. Perhaps that does not really matter, as the office bully that has been stealing your lunch will see your in a whole new Bruce Lee fist of fury light. For more information, contact the school at +44 1982 701 890. Many have tried to climb Mt. Everest and few have succeeded to the highest summit. Many have braved the cold, the wind, the
snow, HAPE and HACE only to be turned back. There is no shame in trying and not succeeding, but why climb to the top when you can start there? High & Wild, a United Kingdom expedition company partnered with local Himalayan adventure operator, orchestrating one of the most extreme adventure packages on the globe currently. The skydive, over 29,000 feet high, pushes the human boundaries and fortitude while dealing with the harsh climatic elements of cold and altitude. Most who have made the jumps so far have been experienced skydivers, who even with their advanced skill levels have found it challenging, albeit white-knuckle inducing exhilarating. Practice jumps are done first from the drop zone of Shyangboche, with the actual jump taking place from the a Pilatus Porter aircraft. One caveat though is that the practice jumps are done from a Russian MI17 Helicopter and Polish M-28 Skytruck. If that makes a difference to you. Your first jump can be done solo or in tandem depending on how many people are registered. Do understand that this is not for the timid, the very inexperienced or obviously, those afraid of
heights. Nor, is this the place to face your fear of heights for a break through. Save that for paragliding in Oman. To obtain more information on the company and the Everest jumps, contact them at 0845 0047 801 or at adventures@highandwild.co.uk. Okay, by now you have gotten your adrenalin-based adventures out of your system, as well as being over the cold and are ready for a little slower pace. Learning the art of kings, polo, is about skill, the ability to stay astride a thoroughbred and access to a proper training ground like the recently opened Estancia Vik. Estancia is an ultra-luxurious retreat ensconced in Jose Ignacio, Uruguay which happens to sport its own private polo field. Here you will learn the noble art of polo while enjoying the great outdoors, beautiful grounds which cover over 4,000 acres, replete with white sand beaches, Marcelo Daglio architecture and rolling greens. Estancia itself is an expansive 50,000-square feet compound, providing its guests with spacious suites, a spa, a gym, a wine cellar, barbecue areas, outdoor patios, rivers, lakes and a lush
countryside to walk in. I digress, as the reason for going are the polo lessons. The resort in partnership with Haras Godiva Polo Management, to provide polo packages, notably their two-night stay at Estancia which includes three polo lessons for Dh6,440 ($1,750). Beginners are encouraged to take the resorts introductory course, while families can take group lessons and/or private one-on-one lessons. All lessons are taught by polo professionals with the same attention to detail paid to all levels of experience. If your arms are tired from driving your mallet and you want to let your steed relax, you can take in one of the scheduled professional matches with some of South America’s best polo players that take place at the property as well. Then there is surfing and splashing through the ocean on horseback at dusk to sooth your aches and pains, or just to fill your senses with essential recharge they deserve. Contact Estancia Vik at +598 (94) 60 5212 or +598 (94) 60 5314, or via email at info@estanciavik.com.
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CHIT CHAT
OMG, please don’t sit next to me Wow, he hasn’t stopped talking
Writer Mark Ellwood analyses the rules of engagement
M
ost bookshelves in America have a dog-eared copy of Barbara Walters’s book, ‘How to Talk to Practically AnybodyaboutPractically Anything’. It was as much a staple of the 1970s as Black Forest gateaux, disco, key parties and Olivia Newton John. Thirty years on, though, I fret that no one’s yet written a sequel – even an antidote - to this pervasive Bible of chitchattery. And I’m ready to volunteer. Walters’s book is no use to me as I’ve always been big on small talk: at weddings, the seat-filling stopgap next to socially awkward aunts is me, while at parties, I’ll launch myself at a cluster of new people with the enthusiasm of Tom Cruise pursuing the enemies of Scientology. What has always proved challenging, though, is extricating myself from those new chums, especially the low-key and –energy types who stick to you with grim determination like social chewing gum, human tourniquets constricting party circulation. I’ve already amassed a pile of potential entries in a Bible of graceful exits. After all, I watched a master from an early age: my feisty yet firm-constitutioned godmother seemed never to arrive at a party without some minor ailment – she’d sigh and mention in passing a migraine, indigestion, jetlag. If the eveAre you listening? ning - and her companions Not Really - proved fun, those maladies magically Nice Buffet vanished; otherwise, they wors-
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ened and her easy, early exit was already prepped. But sometimes, leaving a party isn’t an option – you don’t want to ditch the bash, just the buttonholers wedging you into the corner. Only amateurs risk claiming ‘I’m off to the bathroom/bar/buffet’ since that only enables a bright-eyed and clingy ‘Me, too – I’ll come with you’. Yes, I know I could simply say, briskly, ‘Do excuse me, as I’ll only be here for a while and I definitely need to say hello to a couple of other people’, but I’ve never been poker faced enough to pass that off as plausible. One friend confided her failsafe trick: her car trunk always contained a generic hostess gift (scented candle, red wine, Oprah Book Club selection) so that retrieving it, faux-forgotten, could be a conversation-breaking excuse. But I live in taxi-powered New York City, so that was scant help. Instead, I’ve had to devise cunning but kind subterfuges: technology, of course, is a canny ally. Anyone can program a phone’s alarm to ring sporadically during a dull networking bash as a fake urgent call from your colleague/spouse/nanny. Or ask a friend to phone at an agreed time to offer an instant out, blind date-style. But I prefer stashing my cell, set to silent, in an easy to reach pocket; when chitchat flags, I can apologize concernedly, pat it and say ‘How mysterious! My phone is constantly vibrating – excuse me while I make sure it’s not an emergency’. There are low-tech low-impact tricks too. Food’s an always-reliable disconnector: stuck with a social Siamese twin, I scan the canapé trays, looking for the largest and least bite-sized, then snatch a couple greedily as they glide past. Few but the most socially awkward – or hun-
gry – can watch comfortably as someone overfills their mouth. Chewing stagily and looking sheepish usually unseals the deal; an apologetic shrug is all it takes to escape for a napkin. If canapés aren’t within reach, a friend once suggested a riskier strategy; but I’ve never yet mustered courage, or frustration, enough to roadtest it. She feigns concern, leans close and whispers ‘I know I don’t know you very well but you have something in your teeth’. Propelled by spinach and shame to the nearest bathroom, it’s easy to slip away. My favorite party trick, though, is the Two-drink Twofer: at risky bashes, never leave any open bar with less than a cocktail in each hand. It’s a party-protecting prophylactic. Once stuck in a boring rut, you can chug that stunt martini in desperation; or better still, use it as a handy exit strategy. Look across the room excitedly, show a flicker of recognition then brightly chirp, ‘Excuse me, while I deliver this – I promised I wouldn’t take so long!’ If all else fails, or you’re followed, spill that drink on your persecutor – a martini won’t stain, after all – to guarantee a deadlock in chitchat (and likely permanent exile from everyone’s invitation A-list). Then again, every time I wriggle free from social limpets, I feel as much guilt as glee. Perhaps those of us for whom big bashes induce euphoria rather than anxiety should be gracious, not grateful to get away. How truly grueling is it to act as social life preservers for those who’d otherwise flail in choppy party waters? Perhaps it’s best to smile, sip your wine and make a little smalltalk with everyone. Somehow, I suspect that’s what Barbara Walters would do.
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t’s all about making a
what’s :haute
Statement... ...WITH Cozy Sweaters, Sumptuous Leathers, cashmere scarves AND MORE
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in the bag
a sleek cross body bag that holds everything is the new ‘it’ accessory
Scarves ‘Tis the season to be swathed in luxurious scarves in rich hues
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well shod
man makes the suit but a great shoe boot makes the outfit
cozy knits
being bundled up in soft, cozy knits are the best way to stay warm all season long
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The
O
Bomber Renaissance
utwear was the tasteful battle cry of the F/W 2010 season, with coats ranging from long leather dusters, to shearling knee-length looks, to wool wrap styles and a plethora of trenches. However, the standout of the season was the military-inspired bomber jacket , taking its style cue from the original flight jackets circa the 1930s. Bombers jackets — A-2, MA-1 and B-15 — also known as flight and flying jackets, were originally designed for airforce servicemen at the onset of World War I who flew in open cockpit planes. The jackets were designed to keep pilots warm and comfortable at high altitudes and in any inclement weather condition, like rain, hail and snow. There have been many incarnations of this sturdy jacket over the years, even before fashion though its aviator cap in the ring. The early jackets, dating back to 1917 to the early thirties when they became military issue (the A-2), were heavy duty leather jackets, made
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BY STEPHANIE RIVERS
of hand-tanned leather that preserved the hide and provided the pilot with give and maneuverability inside the cockpit. The new heavy leather jackets quickly became popular due to their tight snug cuffs around the wrists, fitted waists and high collars with padded lining to help protect from extreme cold. By the onset of World War II, these bomber/flight jackets were distributed to all branches of the services, with the A-2 being joined by the MA-1 and the G-5, worn by the Marine and Navy branches of the armed services. As aerial demands increased and aviation technology continued to develop, so did the altitudes climbed. Soaring to higher heights and greater speeds, called for a further evolution in the bomber jacket, one that would provide a warmer interior lining. Wool and fur were used to add warmth to style, making this new version of the bomber, the B3, popular with the pilots and ground crew alike. The new Jacket was not only
warmer outwear but functional as well with the incorporation of large cargo pockets. As technology continued forward with lightening speed and the ‘new jet’ emerged, the refinement of the bomber was necessary to accommodate the new enclosed cockpits and the subsequent need to control the fluctuating temperatures that accompanied it. The new flight jackets, the B-15, now designed out of nylon and various other synthetic materials provided a jacket that was of lighter weight and gave the pilots more flexibility and comfort. These original design principles are still at the core of today’s design inspiration, now providing more luxurious fabrics that span the gamut, from leather, to shearling, to wool and beyond. Burberry Prorsum hands down turned out the most outstanding bomber-spired designed jackets this season, harkening by to yesteryear with a modern day twist that should be in every man’s closet.
Brands I Love:
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Hermes: I love everything about them the belts, the bags, the accessories. I wear the Hermes Perfume everyday that’s like my “I can’t leave home without” item. Christian Louboutin: absolutely love everything about the shoes Love Lanvin and Dior and have anyone seen the new line of shoes by Vera Wong, they are to die for. As for clothing brand I’m not particular in specific brand. As designer I don’t usually wear other brands of clothes as much. I tend to mix and match - I have a huge collection of white shirts – you can never go wrong with white shirt – and this really is my canvas where I can accessories with absolutely anything to give that Ezra edge and style. I love to wear TRUE RELIGION Jeans Collection by Dolce & Gabbana over my Zara white shirt so really it’s all about the end result.
a
day
l
inthe
ife...
BY STEPHANIE RIVERS
Ezra Santos
7.00am My day starts quite early and its usually slow – I don’t like the idea of rushing around first thing in the morning. So I usually make sure I am well rested and well woken. The first thing I do when I wake up is thank god for the night’s sleep and pray for a wonderful morning and day. Then I cuddle up my dog. Pedro – I make sure that I give Pedro my time as well – so morning cuddle is always on the cards. Straight after I start my daily routine of exercise – making sure I stay fit, I do a round of stretching and sit ups for at least 30 minutes. I take my dog for a 10 or 15 minutes walk after that so that he gets to stretch as well. 8:00am I’m back home and straight into the showers. I usually take my own sweet time getting dressed. I love to accessories and create that signature style so I make sure that my fashion statement reflects my individuality and sense of style. 8:30am by this time I’m ready for my first meal if the day, Breakfast. This is usually a light meal – trying to be healthy so I’m careful on the diet.
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My breakfast is usually brown bread, Muesli and of course a strong cup of coffee before heading out to work. 9:30am I start work at 10am so by this time I’m out of the house heading to the work. In my car I usually like to listen to music or listen to the radio – just to keep abreast with the news and what’s happening around town. 10am First thing I do when I get into the office is to align with my PA to go through my daily schedule and appointments. This is when I plan my workload, the clients’ visits and the production timetable. I usually have another cup of coffee just for this session 11:00am I consider this as the most significant part of my morning – a meeting with the production team. This is where I look at the production aspect of each design; going through all
the timelines and quality control. The most important part of the product is done at this stage where every element is key and every stage is crucial. For a brand to sustain itself quality has to be the utmost factor which is why I spend a lot of time here sitting down with each person and going through each outfit – the production stage and finishing touches. This usually takes me until lunch time. 1:00 I leave the office at this time and head out home usually for my lunch and afternoon siesta. I usually have a salad or something light before heading to catch a nap. It’s great that we have a two shifts at work which means we get a break in between for a powernap and a bit of rest and I enjoy this very much – give you the chance to re-energize. 3:00pm – I wake up around this time and get ready to head back to work. Quick round of freshening up and off . 3:30pm leave the house to head back to work for my afternoon appointments. 4pm back at office where I kick off my first client appointment of the day. I book all my clients’ appointments in the afternoon and these
are back to back until the end of day. I would call the afternoon as my creative time because that’s when I have my clients appoints and with the design team we work on designing, deliberating and working of show collection. This is where we all combine our ideas to work on the next round of the designs. It’s a fun time for me because there’s great spirit and exchange of creativity. 9:00pm End of day at work – and straight home, listening to the radio on my way back home or I may be returning calls to my friends - this is usually the moment where I try to catch up without the stress of thinking about work and delivery of dresses. 9:30pm Its a half hour journey from work and by the time I get home I tend to spend a lot of time with Pedro in the evenings. 10:00pm If I’m not ordering take out – I’d be in the kitchen making a quick meal for dinner and then its lazy time in front of TV for a round of Fashion TV. I enjoy reading too so I update myself with fashion magazines really perusing on what is happening out there that could inspire my next collection. 11:30pm I’m an early sleeper as well so bed time is usually around this time. I tend to have a night reading of a magazine next to my bedside just to get me off to sleep.
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The
Glowof
Uniqlo
BY MELANIE BECKWITH
The quintessential minimalist designer Jill Sanders finds her ying the perfect yang for Uniqlo’s fast retailing aesthetic and Japan’s insatiable fashion- conscious appetite. xx
S
ome partnerships, like marriages, are for a lifetime. Others, unfortunately, sour quickly leading to a messy, acrimonious dissolution. Hindsight is 20/20 as they say, and for designer Jill Sander, the days of constantly butting heads with Prada’s Patrizio Bertelli, causing her to quit the label twice, with the final time being in 2004. That is a fabric long ago woven into a tapestry of quite a different design. These days, Jill Sanders has found her design nirvana in the form of fast retailing giant Uniqlo, the Japanese answer to H & M. So much so that she has renewed her contract with Uniqlo indefinitely, a welcomed agreement on all sides. Fast retailing is quite a different approach to designing clothing, for this wellknown, very hard to please designer with a penchant for minimalism, sculpture and architecture. Her design aesthetic has not changed, there are the monastic-influences, great tailoring, mastery of cut, monochromatic colour schemes, simplistic shapes that are effortless, and at their heart very Japanese. However, with this partnership, unlike the Prada one, Sanders is given complete freedom to create and collaborate, with sales figures for her line, + J, bearing out the
fruit of that decision. The line, chock full of everyday basics, happens to be high-quality essentials that are made fast and made well. The true bonus point? That they are priced reasonably, allowing everyone to have Sanders’ minimalist signature, just not at Haute prices. Many of the signature pieces are items which seem plucked right out of Sanders’ own private closet. Often the camera-shy designer has been photographed wearing her + J pieces — the crisp Peter Pan collar shirt, the long navy overcoat, the slim-fit pinstripe pants. The reception for Sanders in Japan has been a very warm one, so much so that she was awarded the Designer of the Year award from the Fashion Editors Club of Japan at a gala dinner. An honor, that is usually reserved for a Japanese designer. Perhaps the fact that she works and designs for a Japanese company helps, that and her boss is the richest man in Japan, Fast Retailing’s chairman and chief executive officer Tadashi Yanai. Sanders has been quoted in many news media outlets as stating “I try as much as possible to give you a great basic product and what comes out, I feel, is really amazing,” she said.
One of the greatest lessons it seems the designer has learned is that there are lower-priced fabrics — high-tech cottons, cashmere and silks — that can be used to produce amasing quality clothing. Of course, Uniqlo is not the only company that understands the impact that a high-profile, high-end designer can bring to their brand. H & M is one of the best examples of the ‘fast retailing’ landscape and how profitable the right collaboration partners can be. Like Sanders + J, H & M has gone from strength to strength with collaborations with Lanvin, Cavalli, McCartney and Comme des Garçons. Unlike H & M, Uniqlo recognises the continued success of growing the + J brand slowly and the importance of having Sanders on board indefinitely. Why was this partnership the match made-in-design heaven? Perhaps it is Sanders mellowing with age and having learned her bitter sweet lessons with Prada, or perhaps it is simplier still, that the brand actualy listens to her and understands the journey and the big picture. Whatever the harmonious cause, Sander, Uniqlo and +J brand seem to be on the long track to design happiness and continued brand nirvana.
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A Flight to No Where:
Costa Rico’s Jungle Providestheperfect727hideaway
BY MARIE RIVIERA
I
f you have every had dreams of being stranded ashore and living like the Swiss Family Robinson, or reenacting scenes from a season of Lost, then the 2-bedroom fuselage suite at the Hotel costa Verde is perfect for you. Situated deep within the rainforest of Costa Rico, near Quepos, the 727 suite is located on the edge of the Manuel Antonio National Park. The very impressive 2-bedroom, 2 bath private suite, fashioned out of a 1965 vintage refurbished 727 airplane, is retrofitted with all the comforts of home, well, a hotel room-inspired home. The former airliner, that was once part of the fleet for South African Air and Avianca airlines, sits high above the fray, resting upon a 50-foot pedestal with a view from the top that is breath taking. At its height, guests can take in the jungle and ocean with the suite’s 360 degree view, while nestled quietly in a recliner on the hard wood deck built atop the plane’s former right wing. Refurbishing the airplane called for the plane to be brought in by big rig trucks, piece by piece, from San Jose to its current home where it was meticulously reassembled, in the air, much like a model airplane. The plane’s interior is luxuriously appointed with hand-carved Balinese furnishings, Costa Rican teak wood floors, queen size beds, a small kitchenette, a spiral staircase, flat screen plasma televisions, a dining area foyer, and a river rock entrance. One can stay nestled in their suite, or one can venture out and explore the national park and its surrounding forests. If that seems to much to undertake, then perhaps a swim in the ocean as the sun goes down is more your speed. Of course, either way, you must climb the stairs to return to your suite. What was the impetus for the suite in the first place? “We were inspired by an article that appeared in Forbes Magazine, about a company that offered hurrican-proof via surplus Boeing 727 airframes,” stated the manager for Costa Verde. Of course, we were intrigued and found some new ways to introduce convenience and luxury to this very prosaic piece of aluminum scrap,” he said. Staying at the fuselage suite is not a cheap one, comparative to many places on Costa Rico, but a fare price for all it has to offer. A stay from January to April costs Dh1,840 a day ($500), while the rates are slightly reduced if you are booked between May and November at a rate
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of Dh1,472 per day ($400). The fuselage suite at the Costa Verde is unique in its own right but not the only one of its kind. The Jumbo Jet Hostel in Stockholm, Sweden, also offers the layover capability, pardon the pun, with its jet-set hotel suites. Now most people hate the thoughts of having to sleep on an airplane, but that was exactly the inspiration behind this hostel. The Jumbo Jet is an actual jet plane permanently grounded at Sweden’s main airport outside Stockholm. The plane has been converted into a 25-room guesthouse that can hold up to 72 overnight guests at a time. The jet, originally part of Singapore Airlines, was retired from service in 2002. The plane, like costa Verda, is built on a concrete foundation with its landing gear secured by steel cradles. Two things the hostel has going for it : price, a room starts at 350 Swedish krona (Dh232 or $63) and the fact that visitors can get married on the wing of the plane and then reside in the plane’s more luxurious honeymoon suite located inside the cockpit. It would seem airport hotel suites have taken on a whole new meaning. For more information, www.costaverde.com and www.hostelworld.com.
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Being BY Stephanie RiveRS
Bourne xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx
i
magine, playing the angst-ridden anti-hero character of robert Ludlum novels, Jason Bourne, in real life. running from one clandestine meetings to another, catching flights to far off locales, awaiting instructions in out of the way dark hotel rooms. every encounter could lead you to your next clue, or worse, down a not so savoury mystery path. Could you do it? Would you do it given the opportunity? exit hidden doorway on the right, instructions read: to undertake this adventure contact Quintessentially.com. Make sure you are not followed. of course, Marie, is optional and at your own risk.
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Bourne jokes aside, Quintessentially is an uber luxe private members’ club with a 24 hour global concierge service, and part of the world’s leading luxury lifestyle group. They have offices in almost every major destination and thousands of suppliers worldwide, making Quintessentially the mayor of the world with the virtual keys to any city. one can think of them as the passport to the very best that life has to offer. it is there penchant for the finer things in life and going to the ultimate degree of preparation that makes their unique Bourne experience the ultimate in real-world espionage intrigue. As part of the authenticity of the ‘mission,’ you train with real-life operational Agents,
opening up a whole new secret world. Participants, or agents if you prefer, learn specialist skills during the course of the experience, skills that will serve them well as they are taken on a journey that will push said ‘agents’ to his or her limits, culminating in a race against time in the desert in north Africa. The action-packed adventure starts running against the clock at Waterloo Station in London at 09:00 hours. For the next 2 days, you will be trained by an elite Special Forces unit, specializing in counter surveillance, weapons training, driving, close quarter battle and antiinterrogation techniques. You will be sent on a mission starting in London and ending in Mo-
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re : define rocco – where you begin as the hunter but end as the hunted. 24 hours before your mission starts, a briefcase will be sent to your home address. Inside will be a list of instructions and a mobile phone. Within the suitcase are intelligence documents of an operation in North Africa financed by a UK company as well as pictures, profiles of suspected agents, maps, co-ordinates, GPS System, rail-card, flight tickets, language books (Arabic and French), first aid kit and all waivers and Quintessentially medical documents to sign. Then, at 09:00 hours – Waterloo Station, waiting by the entrance to track 5 - your mobile rings with more instructions. You are told that you are being followed before you head down into the underground station and get on the Northern Line heading north to Tottenham Court Road. An agent will make contact and take you to an undisclosed office for a briefing about the mission. So far, so good. Your first day will be one filled with training by Quintessentially Secure agents, in the art of intelligence methods – counter intelligence (disinformation), contact driving, CQB (close quarter battle), weapons training and concealment. This will include flights in Helicopters to locations for training. Your first evening, before a delicious meal at Hakkasan, will be a briefing on a deployment operation taking place the next day. You will be following a target to an international airport, picking up more information en route - the target has counter surveillance so you will need to be very careful. You meet with a fellow Quintessentially Secure agent at the airport and follow the suspected agent on to the plane heading for Morocco. The agent meets with handlers and disappears – with the help of your Quintessentially Secure operative you must find the information to track
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the agent’s whereabouts and stop them from completing their mission. Using quad bikes and GPS co-ordinates you head into the African Desert to fight and destroy the enemy. Once your mission is complete you will spend a luxurious evening under the African stars deep in the desert or high in the mountains under tents with the crew for a fantastic meal followed by wonderful entertainment. Now if this has not convinced you that you are capable of fulfilling all of your James Bond/ Bourne fantasies, then I am not sure what will. Every moment of your mission is planned for you, the pulse-racing, sweat-inducing, heartstopping moments are what spy fantasies are
made of and more. What better way to see what you are made of than racing from country-tocountry, following your sworn foe, in Her Majesty’s Secret Service? Mr. Phelps, should you chose to accept this mission... Of course, I was not allowed to interview any previous operatives, for my safety and their anonymity, but my impression is that this is an experience that even Ian Fleming would love. For more information on this adventure or any other service available through Quitessentially, contact them via their web portal at http:// www.quintessentially.com or through their Dubai office at +971 4 437 6800. Information for this piece provided by Quintessentially.com.
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VROOM
BY STEPHEN JOYNER
VROOM
An Ode to High-Octane Machines
A
h, man and his machine. That perfect union of an experienced driver and a well-crafted automobile. Giving into the sheer thrill of taking hairpin turns on mountainous roads and enjoying the rush that comes with stepping on the accelerator when faced with no traffic and a long, open road. How many weekends have been dedicated to the sacred ritual of hand washing and polishing your automobile to mirror finish? Frankly, too many to count. Someone asking to test drive it is akin to having one’s cash stolen, leaving you looking dumbfounded at the mere idea of it. Well, the Wiesmann MF 3 Roadster is that awe-inducing hunk of precision design and composition that reduces grown men to a misty-eyed state and more. The MF 3 is from the sports car manufacturer Wiesmann in Westphalia, Germany. The brothers Friedhelm and Martin Wiesmann are the kind of car purists that you want making your sports cars, forever. The Roadster was first produced in 1993 and has since becoming the symbol for elegance and heart-stopping technology and design. When you see one you are immediately
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spellbound, reaching out to touch the highgloss shine of the exterior but to shaky to do so. You manage to regain some calm and are able to open the door and take in the exquisite leather interior, running your eyes over every curve, stitch and instrument. Once seated, you take in the softness of the leather and fathom its durability, recollecting that if you choose to buy one, you have over 400 leathers to select from. Each hand-crafted inch of the Roadster is a miracle to behold. The exterior is crafted of high-quality, glass fibre reinforced material with hand wound windows made of safety glass and a mechanical fabric hood. Then there is the mind-numbing frontmounted mid-engine with three-way catalytic converter, electronic petrol injection and the stainless steel twin exhaust pipes. It doesn’t hurt that the MF 3 is a 6 cylinder 4 value engine that has a power output of 252/343 KW/HP, with a capacity of 3 201 cm3. Admittedly, the car does not come cheap. I am not suggesting that you throw caution to the wind and spend all of your life savings on the finer things in life, taking on the mantra of live for today because tomorrow is not
promised. Not at all. What I am suggesting, is that perhaps you take your new obsession for a test run first to see what she can really do. For a fraction of the cost of owning the car, you can spend a few days speeding through the Alps behind the wheel of your favourite new automobile. Sign up for the two-day First Class tour from the company, First Class on the Road. The tours take man and his machine through some of the most picturesque spots in Europe, driving tour through the Alps. Think of this trek as a testosterone-fueled rights of passage where you get to speed, push the machine to its limits without having to watch out for the police or have your significant other scold you for going to fast. Just in case you are undecided about testing your Roadster, you can also choose to drive an Aston Martin DB9, a BMW M6 or a Lamborghini Gallardo. Oh, between the sheer thrill of driving your automobile and the beautiful sights you will see, you will stay at two different opulent lake palaces — Hotel Luzern and Victoria-Jungfrau — which allows you to jump on your bed and night and pinch yourself for having such an experience bar none. For more information on Wiesmann, visit www.wiesmann.com. For First Class on the road, visit www.firstclassontheroad.com.
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R ALPH LAUREN
WITH
ON THE
RANGE
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Purveyor of the ultimate Americana lifestyle, designer Ralph Lauren heeded the advice of the early American pioneers and went West. The 16,000 RRL Ranch is a sumptuous lesson in rustic cowboy chic BY STEPHANIE RIVERS
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he RRL Ranch owned by Ricki and Ralph Lauren is a far cry from his humble beginnings in the Bronx, a borough of New York. Back in 1967, Ralph Lauren was a young upstart with chutzpah and a dream. He wanted to create a luxury lifestyle brand that exemplified all that was American. He began with a tie and a 50,000 loan which was the premise for the now global Ralph Lauren brand. Two years later, Lauren would have a boutique of his own within Bloomingdales flagship store on 59th Street in New York. A common occurrence for designers these days but was a phenomenal achievement back them. 1971 would bring about the launch of Polo Ralph Lauren women’s collection and a freestanding store in Beverly Hills, California. A decade later, Lauren would launch his first international store presence with a flagship in London on New Bond Street. The early ‘90s launched the Polo Sport line and fragrances, with the company going public in 1997. As they say, the rest is history, as the Ralph Lauren brand is recognised the world over, with boutiques in major shopping portals around the globe. Flash forward to a few years ago and the Lauren lifestyle brand continues to grow, as does his penchant for buying homes in different locales
and designing to reflect his brand and his envisioned Americana. The RRL Ranch — the acronym for Ralph and Ricki Lauren — like the rest of Lauren’s residences, is an opulent extension of that vision, combined with his love of the West and horses. The ranch is a working one with more than horses, cattle and ranch hands roaming about. Set on over 15,000 acres, the ranch’s aesthetic reflects Lauren’s design style and penchant for the finer things in life, expressed in a humble manner but with well-appointed chic. RRL was a heartfelt search by Ricki and Ralph,
looking for a Western escape that gave them privacy, the ability to be lost in thought, ride their beloved horses and sleep under the stars. It was a search that would take some time to find just the right spot, which was discovered by accident from a perch atop of a hillside. The creation of RRL was a painstaking process, one where every visual detail was acutely paid attention to and no stone was left unturned. His love of the old West would result in an old barn, antique saddles, vintage trucks and cars, an old silver airstream trailer, weathered leather chairs, denim, broken in cowboy boots and old cowhides, much like the world of Ralph Lauren that we see in add campaigns. Lauren’s homes are like his collections, a extension of his visual creativity and of what he feels his brand’s customers want and need. This instinctive connoisseur of luxury manages to have his hands on the pulse of what we want and need, with his brand being the map of how to navigate and have it all. It is this instinct and understanding of the fundamentals of clothing — that what we wear reflects how we see ourselves and is the impression that we will be making on those who observe us — that has propelled the brand to a billion dollar enterprise. Ralph is proof positive that tenacity and vision lead to success, as he dropped out of college, and never went to fashion or design school.
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A Lesson in Food:
Chef Helena Rizzo’s Ingredients for Success BY AMBER JONES
BY ADAM ZACHARIAS
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CCG
hef Helena Rizzo, is the toque of the hef SouthHelena America,Rizzo, a real isgaucha the made good.of South America, a toque aucha real gaûcha madedoes good.not implythe that shegaûcha had a Although term previous career as a may sound as though it imbut is plies a previous careerhorsewoman, as a horsewoman, the native for it is simply the native term for theterm area of the area ofthat Brazil that sheup grew in,Grande Rio Grande Brasil she grew in,up Rio du du Sul, Sul,the themost mostsouthern southernpart partofofBrazil. Brasil. Before Helena would find her true calling in soulful flavours and foods, her interests segued between architecture and a career in modeling for three years. When she decided that food was her calling, she packed her bags and headed to the source of inspiration for most chefs, Spain. Helena knocked on many doors and toiled in many kitchens before finding one she would stay at and learn in, the anointed kitchen of Chef Joan Roca. It was here that Rizzo learned the fine art of cooking, lessons that years later she would bring back to her native Brasil. Instead of working in another restaurant upon her return to Sao Paulo, she opted to open her own restaurant, Mani, instead. Fast forward to today and this 32-year old model-turned-chef’s name is the one on everyone’s lips. Many discovered the former model’s delectable dishes and intriguing flavours
through Paladar – Cozinha do Brasil, the three-day food event in Brasil. Since her first appearance there three years ago, Rizzo has been anointed with the title, Chef of the Year, and continues to be a regular participant each year. At Mani, an airy space with a series of small rooms set-up to look like a garden awash in warm amber hues and white tablecloths, authentic Sao Paulo delicacies are served with a twist. The dishes feed the soul through their savoury flavour mix, their visual presentation, offset by the hum heard around the tables and the wondrous smells that continually waft through it. Many of her dishes are a molecular gastronomic experience that must be experienced to be believed and to fully appreciate. A bean dish may come to your table not in their expected form of shapely mounds of flavour but rather as small droplets of the essence of beans. Feijoada, a slightly bitter green that is commonly shredded and boiled in Sao Paulo, is transformed at the hand of Rizzo with her creation requiring the greens be deep fried until crisp. She plates them as a visually appealing side that renders a savoury taste that melts on your tongue. Figo, a hard Brasilian cheese, is cubed and deep fried, served as cheese lollipops
that make the perfect starter plate to enjoy and keep one out of the Brasilian version of the bread dish. Cheese plays a staring role in many of Mani’s dishes with Gorgonzola being brought down to its purist form, a delicious reduction accompanied by an apple jelly and a celery root sorbet. Taking a traditional cheese and fruit plate to new science fiction heights. Their signature dish, Maniocas, combines a concoction of foamy coconut milk with a slightly bitter extract of cassava root with a dollop of roasted tubers. It is a gastronomic marvel of big taste piled high upon a small white plate. Though pasta may not be a native Brasilian dish, the Pupunha is the perfect dish for pasta lovers. The crunchy ravioli is stuffed with melon, squash and almonds, providing the palette with a textual marvel that is as good at the last bite as it was at the first. The desserts at Mani are as much a scientific tour de force as the main dishes are. The main standouts are the Egg Dessert, an eggnog ice cream paired with coconut foam and coconut crisps, The other was a the Coffee Coffee, a coffee ice cream with coffee gel and cream. Mani, Rua Joaquim Antunes, 210 Jardim Paulistano, Sao Paulo. www.restaurantemani.com.br.
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Haute Haunts BY CHARLIE R NEYRA
Rive GaucHe French cuisine is difficult to review if you’re not French. Of course, you can comment on the food, say whether you like it or not, what went wrong, what the highlights and low points were, but you’ll never truly get to the bottom of whether it was a quality French meal without having grown up in France. In general anyone can review food — everyone has an opinion on what they recently ate and drank — so the insightful reviewer needs insider knowledge to not only offer opinion, but also reason. Therefore, this review comes with a caveat — I’m not French, but I have spent a year in France educating my English palette to the local cuisine, which was mostly Alpine fare, but also influenced by chefs from all over the ‘Great Nation’ — as France used to be called, before its two-hour lunch disappeared following the intrusion of Anglo Saxon business practices. Regardless of changes to the French image, the cuisine has always been at the forefront of the nation and for lovers of all things that burgeon a typical French dinner table, you’ll be pleased to know the menu at Rive Gauche hits the right notes — it lists Gallic classics such as terrine (similar to pâté), potage (soup), foie gras, escargots (snails), moule (mussels), canard (duck), boeuf bouruignon and a tarteto name but a few. The menu gives the restaurant away as being French as you might not guess it from the décor — modern, sleek, but rather cold. The interior is large, so much so that on a Friday evening — traditionally a night for dining out — the place is less than half full. Still, looking on the positive side, it’s half full, not bad considering the huge choice of dining options available in the marina.
YaLuMBa BRuncH The infamous Yalumba Brunch. Famous for its food, its crowds, its music, its champagne and even its guests even popping up in the news following its Friday fun. But enough of the latter and more of the former. For those who haven’t heard about the Yalumba brunch, it’s not too dissimilar to the 100s of brunches offered around Dubai every Friday, except that Yalumba focuses on a party atmosphere, even stating in its blurb when you book… “Popular Music of [sic] 70s, 80s & more (CD) NO LIVE ENTERTAINMENT. Please note that from 2.30pm, the volume of the music will be increased to keep in line with the Yalumba party brunch theme spirit.” The basic message is — no moaning when the music’s pumped up and you’re still enjoying your roast lamb main or chocolate brownie dessert. Guests at the Yalumba Brunch are aware of this — it’s why they came — so the chances of complaints are minimal. The music does gradually increase and from 2.30pm it’s classic party tunes until you leave. It was my first visit to the Yalumba brunch, and as the organiser of 20 people I had to juggle numbers, making sure everyone turned up. Dubai residents seem to be adept at the ‘no-show’, so a message went out, “Fail to appear and you’ll still receive a bill.” The damage for the afternoon is Dh479 per person, which is steep, but in return you receive top quality champagne for the duration, along with anything off the à la carte menu and the ubiquitous brunch. The à la carte menu offers classic breakfast options — I started with Eggs Benedict — along with a range of mains from Australian kangaroo to Indian curry. The eggs were runny, cooked to perfection, and a great way to kick off three hours of gluttony. The buffet at Yalumba is a good spread, the highlight of which was the roast lamb with Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes. Options aren’t as diverse as other brunches of the same price, or even the Spice Island evening buffet (at half the price), but what is on offer hits the mark. In party mode it’s important not to eat too much, otherwise, like most men, you’ll gently fall into a ‘food coma’ as tiredness overwhelms me and you seek out the nearest sofa, armchair or sun lounger — not the best company for others trying to enjoy the afternoon.
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Once settled into the spacious environment it’ll be time to peruse the menu and fortunately, in classic French style, it’s kept short and to the point. The idea for most French restaurants is to specialise in a small selection of dishes, rather than go American-style and offer the hungry punter anything and everything the chef can create. It means Rive Gauche offers just six starters, two soups, six mains and a small selection of fish, meat and grilled options. For my group, all the starters were excellent, served in small amounts — just the right quantity to begin the evening. For the main course, the risotto was tasty, but not particularly special. Made with roasted pumpkin it was a bit bland, but the other mains — scallops and jumbo prawn dishes — were, as the French might say, “très bons”. To any palette they would have been welcomed, but I am sure the French would approve — good flavours, not too much food; well presented delicacies. The Rive Gauche would, in my short French experience, be able to impress the natives, but they may take to the streets at the prices. Certainly on the high side, but not extreme for Dubai, the cost is just about acceptable for a waterside fine dining experience. What We liked: The seared scallop What We didn’t like: The lack of atmosphere Cost for tWo: Dh300-Dh500 ContaCt: Rive Gauche Restaurant, The Address Hotel Dubai Marina, 800-ADDRESS
Staff at the brunch are attentive to the point of nannying. Their sheer number means you’ll never go thirsty, hungry or, as it turned out, in need of waiting to have the table shifted in order to cater for an extra person or two. These guys need tipping, so be sure to have a whip round before the afternoon closes. They’re clearly busy, even before you arrive, putting up balloons, streamers, party hats and horns, so that their customers walk into a room akin to a New Year’s Eve celebration or children’s birthday bash. In the coming cooler months the brunch shifts partially outdoors, which is the best time to go. There’s an outside DJ mixing up cheesy hits for the crowd. Just be sure your crowd are looking for that kind of atmosphere because otherwise they’ll be disappointed at paying so much for an afternoon of increasing raucous revelry. What We liked: When the tunes were turned up What We didn’t like: It’s only three hours long Cost for one: Dh479 ContaCt: Yalumba Restaurant, Le Meridian Dubai, Garhoud, 04-2170000
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re : acquaint Handi RestauRant Indian food needs little introduction in a country that is predominantly populated by Non-Resident Indians (NRIs). Much like Brick Lane in East London, where you expect high quality curry, likewise Deira is filled with Indian restaurants where you’d be disappointed to eat poor Indian food, considering the NRI kitchen staff and clientele. In the midst of these sub-continental offerings is Handi Restaurant, found at the back of the Taj Palace Hotel, sister to the infamous Taj Mahal Hotel in Mumbai. Having been in Dubai for almost two years, and having visited most of its impressive hotels, I was surprised to find another massive five star pad that I was yet to visit, but the reasons for this are twofold. Firstly, the Taj Palace is tucked away in the back streets of a part of Dubai I rarely visit; secondly, the hotel is dry, meaning our dinner at Handi went without the traditional accompaniment of a large pint — something the British see as a vital accessory to any Indian evening. Handi would have to make up for the loss of house beverages with its north Indian cuisine — but on seeing the wall of awards plastered to the entrance hall it appeared that might not be a problem. Our server for the evening was Maricel, himself from India, but also from the school of ‘good waiting can make an evening’. I have to hand it to him, if I had to be as nice to people as he is to customers every evening I’d either explode, or be a monk. Maricel’s enthusiasm for the restaurant’s food, though, was exemplary. It wasn’t tacky, or forced, but seemed absolutely genuine. He was sincerely disappointed when we failed to finish the Masala Papad, Murg Tikka Husseini and Tawawala Chaat starters, even encouraging us to hold the main course for twenty minutes so we could polish off the remains.
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Not that we really needed much encouragement. The Tawawala Chaat is a dish of soft, spicy potatoes that arrives on a sizzling platter. Many people are embarrassed when restaurants serve food like this. I love it. Everyone turns to see what the explosive dish is that’s cruising through the restaurant, and I beam in the knowledge that I’m the lucky one to be getting it. Along with the boneless tender chicken tikka and crunchy spicy papad it was a steamy start to the evening, but we had to leave space for the main course. The award-winning Gosht Korma Awadhi has amazing melt-in-the-mouth lamb made, according to the chef (who came to chat to us for five minutes), by wrapping the meat in dough, then putting it in a very hot oven for an hour — it’s a traditional north Indian method. Its korma sauce was good, but not incredible — high expectations probably saw to that — so the best dish of the evening was the Tawa Murg Punjabi, a dish that even Maricel described as “a bit on the fiery side,” which it was, but in a manageable way — and for an Englishman to say that, it probably means it was just averagely spicy for an Indian palate. Fit to burst with the addition of Dal Handi, Prawn Malai, Palak Paneer and various breads filling any forgotten cavities, the meal gets my rating as one of the finest Indians I’ve ever had — even if it didn’t have the usually necessary beverages complementing the meal. What We liked: The service and sizzling potato starter What We didn’t like: The beverage selectio dinner for tWo: Dh400 ContaCt: Handi Restaurant, The Taj Palace Hotel, Dubai, 04-2113020
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Editor’s Picks:
FW 2010 Menswear
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BURBERRY PRORSUM
LANVIN HOMME
CHRISTOPHER BAILEY GAVE THE BURBERRY MAN OUTSTANDING OUTERWEAR IN THE FORM OF MUST-HAVE LEATHER BOMBERS, GREAT SUITING, COOL SEPARATES AND TO DIE FOR BAGS FOR DAY OR WEEKENDS
LANVIN HOMME FW 2010 OFFERED UP GREAT ESSENTIALS IN THE FORM OF WARM WOOL HERRINGBONE COATS, LONG DUSTER COATS GREAT CASUAL DAY PANTS, EDGY TURTLENECK SWEATERS AND FUNKY FOOTWEAR
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3.1 PHILLIP LIM UOMO
ARMANI COLLECTION THERE ARE ONLY A FEW MASTERS OF SUITING, ARMANI IS ONE OF THEM. HIS FW 2010 COLLECTION IS ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF HIS DEFT HAND AND HIS ABILITY TO PRODUCE SUITING AT ITS VERY BEST
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3.1 PHILLIP LIM
DELIVERED CHIC STAPLES FOR THE URBAN WARRIOR THAT MUST SLAY THE MECHANICAL DRAGONS AND TAME THE ASPHALT BEASTS DAY IN AND DAY OUT. GREAT JACKETS, COZY SWEATERS AND CHIC SUIT SEPARATES
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TOBY The Toby line of National dress silhouettes brings stylish panache to an everyday staple that only a native son of the UAE could achieve. The line is elegant, fashionable yet respectful of the Emerati culture
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HIP,
HAUTE,
HOMME
The well-dressed man is the homme of the fW 2010 season. whether casual or evening attire, he is the one to watch. xx
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Crazy, Casual, Cool Being well-dressed does not always mean a suit and a tie. Cool separates like a T-shirt, kicks and a sWEATER blazer says it all.
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geek chic A great coat and denim is all you really need
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WEll Suited Velvet takes the suit to a different realm of elegance for a night out on the town
Luscious layers Layering shirts adds depth and a richness to any look without needing a tie or cufflinks
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Bold Stroke a well-cut suit with pinstripes and a touch of banker’s blue is an eloquent nod to yesteryear
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Intriguing
Istanbul When you sample the turkish delights of istanbul you Will taste the melloW past flavoured With the spicy present.
By AnnA HAnsen
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T
he first time I visited Istanbul two years ago, I fell in love with this city that dates back four millenniums. Perhaps it was the beauty, or maybe it was the vibrancy, but I knew that I would return. Now I call the city that spans two continents my home. Istanbul is so much more than an ancient relic of the opulent Ottoman Empire, though every visitor’s must-see list should include the historic sights in the historic Sultanahmet area where the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and the Basilica Cistern are located. You could easily spend most of a day imagining the luxurious lifestyle at the Topkapi Palace, but do not miss the treasures of today such as those in the Istanbul Modern Art Museum or the Sakirin Mosque on the Asian side, the first mosque designed by a woman and which opened just over a year ago. On one of my firsts visits, I stayed at the Radisson Blu Bosphorous located at the water’s edge in trendy Ortakoy, just metres from some of the city’s hottest nightspots such as Zuma and the uber chic Angelique, recently redesigned by the Wallpaper award-winning Auto-
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ban, whose style reflects the best of contemporary Turkish design. Guests sometime arrive on yachts at the StarBoard Restaurant on a terrace by the water. In the penthouse Vakko Suite of the Radisson Blu, Ottoman art expert Serdar Gulgun created a timeless, yet regal environment that meets the needs of today’s traveler but also honours the historic city. Another of my favorite places is the W Hotel, Europe’s first of this Starwood brand. Behind the original facade of the Akaretler Row Houses in the Besiktas section of the city that once housed the officers of the Dolmabahce Palace (another must-see for your sight-seeing list), the reception area resembles a jewel box overflowing with precious gems. As you pass through billowing, transparent silver curtains, you experience the sensation of entering an exotic, magical world. The atmosphere continues into the corridors of black, backlit mirrored glass and squared archways illuminated with Ottoman-inspired calligraphy in fuchsia lights, leading the way to the 134 guest rooms, with private outdoor lounges and all the latest technology.
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Across the Bosphorous on the more subdued Asian side of Istanbul is a mid-nineteenth distillery that was transformed by owners/ architects Mark and Nedret Butler into the Sumahan, a contemporary 20-room boutique hotel that has received a plethora of outstanding accolades, including being named as One of the World’s Best Hotels by the editors of luxury Travel Magazine. Stone walls from the original structure, which had been in Nedret’s family for generations, provide a sense of history while the clear glass elevator and exposed steel beams present a contemporary counterpoint. A private launch is at the disposal of guests to ferry them across the water to the European side of the city. After two and half years of restoration, the historic Pera Palace Hotel, reportedly where Agatha Christie penned the famous Murder on the Orient Express, has reopened its doors in Taksim with Chef Maximilian J. W. Tomae at the helm of the kitchen which has been serving distinguished diners since 1892. The menus he creates for the Agatha Restaurant combine dishes from the past as well as new interpre-
tations of Italian, French and Turkish cuisine. During the renovations, a secret cache of 5,000 pieces of Christofle, Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Company silverware was discovered. Each piece was restored to its former glory and is now used by guests. Also in the famed Taksim Square is the contemporary rooftop venue of 360, which, as its name suggests, offers one of the most fantastic 360° views of the city. From here you can see across the Bosphorous to Asia as well as the lights of the Old City. However, the nightly DJ and superb cuisine will compete for your attention. For something completely different, the Joke restaurants offer outstanding menus served with a rollicking sense of humour. Of the various Jokes throughout the city, my favourite is Joke Perestroika, which has a Russian theme. An army tank in the garden guards the white-coated “doctors” who distribute “medicinal’ drinks in bubbling test tubes. The extensive offerings, all with satirical names, bring the local elites back for more fun. When it comes to shopping, I love wander-
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ing about in the Grand Bazaar, the original prototype of the modern-day covered mail. In the mid 1400s, Sultan Mehmed the Conquer constructed two vaults over an existing labyrinth of stalls, which now consist of over 4,000 shops on 58 winding streets. Everything from tourist kitsch to exquisite hand knotted rugs, authentic antiques and exquisite Turkish textiles, ceramics, jewelry and fashions is on offer here. For quality handmade rugs, try Meha for either antique or new-made carpets, perhaps a wool Oushai or a silk Herica .If you don’t know the difference the knowledgeable staff will answer your questions over a cup of coffee or tea. Just outside the Main Gate of the Grand Bazaar in a 17th century caravanserai is Punto of Istanbul, which is another place you can shop with confidence. Beautifully woven textiles for the home can be found at Home Textiles. Hand loomed raw silk or cotton bed and pillow covers, tablemats and cloths and all sorts of draperies and window coverings in Ottoman as well as contemporary patterns can be found here. Like many of the more prestigious shops, the prices are fixed.
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Inlaid mother of pearl, a traditional Turkish craft, can be found on boxes, chest sets, lamps and many other decorative items at Ömer Günce and for special pieces of gold or silver jewellery, some with precious and semi-precious stones in contemporary interpretations of traditional Turkish designs, try Stonebul For a more contemporary approach to shopping, the upscale Istinye Park Centre features over 300 local and international stores. In addition to the ubiquitous international brands are prestigious Turkish names as Vakko, the luxury department stores that encompasses fashion, interior design, and fine chocolate, and the fabulously upscale Beymen. The dynamic Istanbul of today is an amalgamation of all the peoples and events of its past with a progressive eye to the future. When you come, be sure to taste the city’s delicious fusion of the past and the future from the smorgasbord of delights it has to offer. You may decide, as I did, that the only way to truly savoir the city is to live here. Anna Hansen is a travel writer who has recently moved to Istanbul where she delights in explor-
After two and half years of restoration, the historic Pera Palace Hotel, reportedly where Agatha Christie penned the famous Murder on the Orient Express, has reopened its doors in Taksim
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