Take a trip to Spicewood

BY RACHEL MADISON STAFF WRITER

SPICEWOOD -- As we drove down one of the many meandering country roads in Spicewood, my husband said it best: “Spicewood is less of a place and more of a state of mind.” He was right. There’s no downtown, no city center, no cluster of fast food restaurants and gas stations like you might think, since its epicenter sits along Highway 71 just west of Austin.

Instead, it’s rolling hills, blooming wildflowers and herds of longhorn. It’s winding roads through dense green forest, scenic lake views and, perhaps the most noteworthy -- a chance to see country music legend Willie Nelson (he’s made Spicewood his permanent residence).

The decision to take our family on a trip to Spicewood was simple. It’s only an hour drive from Liberty Hill, and activities that appeal to both adults and kids are easy to come by. Whether you love exploring the outdoors, listening to live music or eating iconic Texas foods, you can find it all in Spicewood.

Where to Stay

Centrally located on Highway 71 in Spicewood is Green Acres, a family-friendly glamping resort. Options for lodging include 200-square-foot cabins each with their own Texas flair, or a variety of different nostalgic, vintage trailers.

Our family chose a trailer—the 1952 Trailette—for our week-long stay, which proved to be an experience for four people and a dog, but only brought us closer both literally and figuratively. Each of the vintage trailers has been restored and revamped with modern amenities like electricity, running water and wooden decks for enjoying the outdoors, and each has its own personality.

Besides the lodging accommodations, Green Acres also has a well-maintained bath house, which includes four bathrooms, two indoor showers, two outdoor showers, a laundry room and a kitchen fully stocked with breakfast foods, snacks, coffee and tea fixings and even a s’mores station.

Around the grounds of Green Acres, there are yard games and a miniature golf putting green; a large fire pit and relaxing hammocks; picnic tables and a dog park; donkeys, cows, chickens and ducks all living on site; and a playground for kids unlike any I’ve ever seen. Complete with its own trailer for kids to play on, as well as a wooden John Deere tractor, vintage seesaws and other fun equipment, my kids never got tired of visiting the playground.

Another fun part of Green Acres is all the photo ops you’ll find. There’s an antique ice cream truck, a giant Texas swing, an old classic car and a giant lawn chair, which are perfect for all the cheesy family photos you will want to take.

Green Acres: greenacresspicewood.com

Eat + Drink

You can’t go to Spicewood without stopping by Poodies Hilltop Roadhouse. The bar and music venue was opened by Nelson’s stage manager of 34 years, Randall “Poodie” Locke, who lived by the motto of “No Bad Days” and brought in major country acts like Nelson himself, as well as Toby Keith, Ray Wylie Hubbard, Kevin Fowler and Cross Canadian Ragweed.

Though Locke passed away in 2009, his legacy lives on at the bar. There is live music every day, including a special songwriter’s night every Monday, where locals can come and share their new songs with the community.

Typical bar food and strong drinks are on the menu at Poodies, and while nothing we ordered truly impressed us, the chicken strips, steak fingers and fries were all solid options. Add a cold beer or a margarita on the rocks with the live music, and it makes for a pleasant outing.

Another staple in Spicewood is Opie’s BBQ, which is open seven days a week, but will close early on if the barbecue runs out (which it often does). You can’t go wrong with your order at Opie’s, but my family’s personal favorites are the baby back ribs and the tender brisket. Add on a side of the tator tot casserole, and your meal will rival any of the most talked about barbecue joints in Austin.

Lastly, if you’re looking for a fun place to take your kids while enjoying delicious food and creative cocktails, check out Iron Wolf Ranch & Distillery. The venue sits on 15 acres and offers a playground for kids, lawn games like cornhole and giant Connect Four, and live music most days they’re open, which is typically Friday through Sunday.

The ranch is named for its mascot, Luna, who is an actual Siberian grey wolf, adopted by the owners when she was just 8 weeks old. Luna visits the ranch every Friday and loves taking photos with kids and dogs alike.

The spirits crafted at Iron Wolf include bourbon, vodka, rum, gin and whiskey, each with a Texas twist. Tastings are available to try all the spirits, or you can order a creative cocktail off their menu to pair with something from the Phoenix Grille, the onsite food truck that serves up everything from quesadillas and loaded fries to rice bowls and sauteed veggies.

Poodies Hilltop Roadhouse: poodies.net

Opie’s BBQ: opiesbarbecue.com

Iron Wolf Ranch & Distillery: ironwolfranch. com

What to Do

Outdoor adventures are aplenty in Spicewood, so bring your sunscreen and hiking shoes. The first place we visited was Muleshoe Bend Recreation Area ($5 per adult, kids under 12 are free), situated on the shore of Lake Travis. Tent and RV camping there is an option, but we made our visit a day trip and spent most of our time hiking.

Numerous trails for hikers, bikers and equestrians span across the 600-plus acres, and the terrain varies enough to satisfy any hiker’s goals. Most of the trails are fairly short, but if you combine them all, you have nearly 10 miles to explore. I recommend hiking the longest trail in the area, called the Great Escape Trail, but if you have small children with you, prepare to cut the hike short.

If hiking isn’t really your thing, there’s also kayaking, paddleboarding and fishing available on Lake Travis. You can rent kayaks or paddleboards at the recreation area for either a half or full day.

Another unique outdoor adventure in Spicewood is the Narrows Recreation Area ($5 per adult, kids under 12 are free), also located on the shore of Lake Travis. Much smaller than Muleshoe Bend, the Narrows is great for fishing, swimming and lounging on the “beach.”

Although there’s not exactly a beach at the Narrows that resembles anything you see on the Texas coast, there is plenty of soft sand and, believe it or not, shells to collect. My kids spent hours searching for and collecting shells of all shapes and sizes in between casting their fishing lines in hopes that they would catch something. Unfortunately, no one caught anything that day.

The most beautiful place we visited was the Westcave Outdoor Discovery Center. At $10 to $25 a ticket, I was concerned about my family getting our money’s worth, but after visiting the preserve, that was no longer a worry.

Our tour guide took us on a one-mile, moderately difficult hike (read: lots of stairs) that took us from an arid savanna down through a limestone crevice and into a stunning canyon. Inside that canyon was one of the most beautiful sights I’ve ever seen, right in the Texas Hill Country. The canyon opened into a lush grotto, where water falls along a 40-foot cliff into an emerald pool. We got to walk behind where the water falls to see the pool from a different perspective, and then we had the chance to go inside the one-roomed limestone cave where we could see stalac- tites and stalagmites actively growing. The experience was truly cathartic and worth the two hours it took for the guided tour.

The preserve also has a small museum where visitors can learn more about the flora and fauna of the area, as well as an art exhibit showcasing area artists.

Muleshoe Bend Recreation Area: lcra.org/parks/muleshoe-bend

Narrows Recreation Area: lcra.org/parks/narrows

Westcave Outdoor Discovery Center: westcave.org