T R E N D M A P
W O M E N’ S T A I L O R I N G
C CO ON NT TE EN NT TS S
WHAT IS A TREND?
1-2
WHAT INFLUENCES TRENDS?
3-4
TREND CYCLE
5-6
TREND FORECASTING
6-7
TAILORING HISTORY
11-12
MODERN DAY INTERPRETATION
13-16
TREND DRIVERS
17-20
ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY
21-22
SHOP SAFARI
23-24
TARGET CONSUMER
25-28
STYLING SHOOT CONCEPT
31-32
LOCATION
33-34
EDITORIAL
35-36
"The future is here it's just not very well distributed" (Raymond, 2010)
WHAT
IS A TREND?
T
rends are patterns or anomalies that can persuade us to adopt new ways of doing things or expressing ourselves. (Raymond, 2010). It can be seen as a tipping point, from when a few innovative people are doing it, for example celebrities or social media influencers to when many people are doing it and it becomes adopted by a mass amount of people. (Abnett, 2015). From a business perspective, trends are tools that might help you convince your clients how you and your brand understand how the world changes. (Abnett, 2015). Trends can be sorted into three different catagories: fads, microtrends and macrotrends, fads being short lived, and quickly adopted contrasting megatrends which are slow to develop but are able to shift the world.
FAD Quickly gains in popularity often lasts a season Heavily driven by social media E.g clothing, foods hairstyles
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MICROTREND Slower paced but on a wider scale than fads E.g jobs, transport
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MEGATREND Slow to develope several years Long lasting Shift the world Certaincies E.g ageing population, globalisation
WHAT
INFLUENCES TRENDS ?
Every generation has their own style; something that sets them apart from the previous generations, this is known as the zeitgeist, it is the defining spirit or mood of a particular period of history and the spirit of the time this is made up by the trends in that particular period of time. The trends that are present at a certain period of time are a result of the political and cultural influences. “Fashion is all about change, without an engine to drive change fashion would not exist” (Annette Lynch And Mitchell D. Strauss, 2007)
POLITICAL INFLUENCES- Communication is visual, clothes are our shared language (Friedman, 2016). Designers and trends are incredibly reactive to the massive surprises we’ve seen in politics, most recently, the election of Donals Trump and Brexit have influenced what designers have chose to create and what people have decided to wear.
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CULTURAL INFLUNECES- Art, music, architecture and photography all have an influence on fashion trends. In terms of fashion inspiration, these emotions and ideas can help to inspire creatives to create new concepts for collections.
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TREND CYCLE
E
xamples of fashion cycles can be found throughout history. Fernand Braudel (1981) notes that fashion resulted to a large extent from the desire of the privileged to distinguish themselves, whatever the cost, from the masses that followed them. (Wolfgang Pessendorfer, 1995) In the modern day, the ‘privileged’ cam be substituted for celebrities or social media inflencers. Due to social media, people are exposed to trends more so than in the past, meaning innovators get bored of trends faster and are actively looking for new styles. “Since the life cycle of a fashion trend is tightening and condensing, the period of time between a trend’s appearance and disappearance is faster than ever” (Gordon, 2017)
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TREND
FORECASTING WHAT IS TREND FORECASTING?
Trend forecasting is an art and a science. A science because, it uses analytical concepts and models to predict forthcoming trends systematically and an art as forecasts are based on intuition, judgement and creativity. Trendforecasters predict what will be popular in the future.
WHY IS TREND FORECASTING IMPORTANT?
A
s trends are constantly changing, knowing what customers will want to wear next season is requisite for success (Eundeok Kim pg1). According to Laver’s Law, when a trend is in fashion, it is ‘smart.’ One year before this it is ‘daring.’ And 20 years later, it becomes ‘ridiculous.’ 50 years, Laver said, was how long it took for a trend to begin to creep back into style. (Abnett, 2015). Trend forecasters must be able to identify the trends that cutsomers will want to buy into next season. Whether its automobiles, fashion, furniture, electronics or cosmetics designers rely on information provided by trendforecasters so that customers will accept the merchandise when it arrives in store which is crucial for profitability, the reason for business existence. ~ However, it must be addressed that forecasting is of course not 100% reliable and there is no guarentee that it will be done accurately but done with good investment and calculated risk it can generate huge profits for businesses. Trend driven stores such as Zara with short lead times and introduce new stock into stores every 2 weeks they therefore, need forecasts to be made constantly so that they have time to design and make the new products but also to be one of the first stores to stock the new trend that wil appeal to their more innovative target consumer. However, less trend driven stores that release new collections seasonally such as Ted Baker and Paul Smith are more likely to look out for the more long- term trends rather than fads.
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W O M E N’ S TAILORING
TAILORING HISTORY MODERN DAY INTERPRETATION TREND DRIVERS ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY SHOP SAFARI
TARGET CONSUMER 9
10
TAILORING 1930s Marlene Dietrich “the trousers craze”
HISTORY
Fashion has been used as a feminist tool throughout history, from mod’s sparking debate with women wearing mini skirts in the 1960s to women dressing like men in the 1930s, clothing items have been used throughout history to challenge the limitations of gender.
2010 Janelle Monae
1980s Grace Jones Often photographed wearing almost all ‘male attrire’ Marlene sparked controversy amongst the general public. It was even argued that the new styles violated the law forbidding women to “masquerade as men”.
Often wearing large shoulder pads and oversized blazers, Jones Grace Jones useds suits to skew gender roles moving between the prescribed categories of ‘masculine’ and ‘feminine’ in style creating striking, powerful looks.
1950s Teddy Girls The 1950s, postwar subculture took ownership of the Edwardian Drape jacket which soon became a signifyer of rebellion and anti- conformity. The girl’s hard earned cash was not wasted on expensive clothes, instead they thrifted the Edwardian jackets taking on the masculine, rebellious look.
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2000s Tilda Swinton Tilda’s signature adrogynous suit and short cropped hair creates a gender neutral look that is neither masculine or feminine, the gender fluidity movement has become more popular in the 21st century.
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TAILORING
TREND
THE DECONSTRUCTED BLAZER
S
een on SS18 catwalks the tradtional blazer has been given a new lease of life. Traditionally worn by males in power or on formal occasions, the blazer is a sign of conformity and masculinity. However, by changing the classic ‘V’ neckline to an asymmetric one and ‘twisting’ the torso the blazer as shown by Monse.Or tieing the long sleeves around the waist to create a new silhouette as seen by Alexander Wang. The blazer has been given an edgy, rebellious makeover which has connotations of anti - conformity yet still symbolises power. This is possibly influenced by the megatrend of feminism.
A L E X A N D E R W A N G S S 18
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M O N S E S S 1 8
V E T E M E N T S S S 1 6
L
B A L E N C I A G A
THE OVERSIZED BLAZER
arge shoulder pads inspired by the 1980s create a masculine, powerful look by creating the illusion of broader shoulders, inspired by the likes of Grace Jones signifying female power. This interpretation of the trend is also inspired by the feminist movement and the idea that women are just as powerful as men.
S S 1 8
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TREND
DRIVERS
Emma Watson In 2014, British actor and Goodwill Ambassador for U.N. Women Emma Watson wore a white suit whilst she gave a moving speech, catching the world‘s attention about gender inequality. She has helped progress the feminism movement and is seen as an inspirational figure for women. Emma’s bravery and determination to be a powerful woman is passed onto the garment empowering the women who are choosing to take part in the trend.
CELEBRITIES
C
ontemporary Ideas and Research in Marketing, researchers found that 85% of people surveyed said that celebrity endorsements enhanced their confidence in and preference for a product (Angela Sokolovska, 2016). Meaning celebrities play an important role in the development of trends. Veblen’s 1899 Trickle Down Theory suggests that trends are first adopted by the top strata of society (celebrities) and gradulally becomes adopted by those in the lower strata. Once the fashion is accepted by those below, the affluent reject the look for another and the cycle continues.
Alexa Chung
Kim Kardashian With 106 million Instagram followers Kim Kardashian’s social media influence is one of the largest, with brands willing to pay up to $500,000 (Sarah Karmali, 2017) for just one post. If Kim Kardashian is wearing it, then the trend is likely to trickle down into mainstream fashion. Arguably being one of the first to adopt trends such as contouring and bodycon clothing, the growth of the tailoring trend is partly down to Kim’s influence.
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Bella Hadid
Trend drivers are usually heterophilous people, they tend to love the different and therefore, are the first to adopt new trends which are later adopted by homophilous people, those who have a tendacy to want to associate with others by dressing similar.
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SOCIAL MEDIA INFLUENCERS
LISSI RODDY
FASHION ADDICTED
19
49% of people depend on influencers for their purchase decisions and with the continuous growth of social media users this is set to rise meaning forecaster’s influence on trends is going to grow even larger. Currently, 87% of British Internet users have an active social media. (Cadence Innovatio Marketing). Social media dictates trends today. The trend emerges overnight and disappears almost as quickly.� (Abnett, 2015)
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E N V I R O N M E NTAL S U STAI NAB I LITY Sustainability means meeting the needs of people today without damaging resources needed for those in the future.
T
OPSHOP's bright coloured suits are 94% polyester, 6% elastane. Polyester is a synthetic fibre made from petroleum, a non-renewable resource that creates damaging environmental impacts during the extraction process. Polyester manufacturing is energy intensive and requires wood and oil to produce, thereby contributing to global warming from harmful greenhouse gases. However, polyester can be washed in cold water and dries quickly, meaning only a small amount of energy is used during the cleaning process, which is usually the most energy requiring process in a garments life cycle. Many people may also choose to only have their suit dry cleaned and although this uses energy and non-renewable resources due to the cost people will choose to not get this done very often and wear the garment a number of times before washing possibly making the suit a more sustainable as less energy is used in the cleaning process than with other trends. Many of the tailoring pieces on the high-street are brightly coloured meaning the fabric is likely to have undergone dying. The dying process is also harmful to the environment due to waste disposal into water systems that often end up polluting rivers and contaminating water supplies. This often occurs in vulnerable communities such as those in Bangladesh that rely on water for food, drinking water and economic reasoms." Higher concentration of these metals in the ecosystems may lead to an excessive accumulation of metals, becoming toxic to plants and possible danger to human health problem" (Kashem, 1999) however, thepoor people in the communities are powerless due to the lack of laws protecting them and the huge wealth generated by the textile manufacturers.
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SHOP SAFARI
A
t the high end of the highstreet, Paul Smith’s suits are less affordable ranging from £400- 500 for the set. Making these suits an investment piece and are likely to stay in the owners wardobe for several years due to their high quality. The embroidery trend was featured in Paul Smiths range, WGSN’s catwalk analysis showed that emboridery had fallen 14% last season and is less ‘on trend ‘than other styles. These suits are likely to appeal to late majority (see appendix figure 2), a less innovative consumer than for Topshop and Zara. Amember of store staff explained that Paul Smith’s target consumer is more mature.
TOPSHOP
PAUL SMITH
23
ZARA
Fast fashion, trend-driven stores such as Topshop and Zara have more fashion forward suits in store. With bold, bright coloured two piece suits, likely to be worn by those happy to make a statement and stand out from the crowd. The target consumer of these suits is likely to be highly influenced by the trends worn by social media influencers, featured in Vogue and worn by fashionable peers. They are accessible in price with a full suit ranging from £70- £100.
24
TARGET
CONSUMER
THE GIRL BOSS
T
he girl boss is inspired by the feminism movement, she knows what she wants to achieve and is not going to let any man get in the way of her reaching her goal. When choosing a suit she wants a smart, minimalist look that she can wear to the office in the day but also pair with heels to transition into an evening piece. She prefers to buy high quality garments from high end high street stores such as Paul smith. She is inspired by powerful business women such as Victoria Beckham.
FEMINIST
GIRL BOSS
CLASSIC
25
OFFICE WEAR
POWER DRESSING
26
STYLISH
TARGET
CONSUMER
INNOVATOR TREND DRIVEN BOLD FASHION FORWARD
WONDERLAND
W
THE WANNABE BLOGGER
hen she’s not posting her #OutfitOfTheDay on Instagram she’s probably online shopping or flicking through Dazed and Confused or Wonderland magazine. After seeing her favouite bloggers wearing the suit trend she has bought her own bright blue two piece from Topshop which she chooses to pair with white trainers and some on-trend tiny sunglasses. She likes to follow fashion trends and is likely to buy from cheaper, more accessible fast fashion stores.
RISK TAKER
27
28
STYLING H O O T CONCEPT
LOCATION
EDITORIAL
30
CONCEPT
MODELS 5 very different female models were chosen for the shoot, in order to represent a range of women with different ethncities. The models were directed to pose in a ‘masculine’ way by slouching and looking stern in order to portray an attitude.
Strong, intellegent and beautiful
T
he concept behind the shoot was challenging societies’ expectations of what a woman should be. Western society tells women that they should look feminine, glamourous and beautiful before they do anything else and the way they look dictates how desireable, succesful and popular they are. However, this is not the reality, many people fail to recognise that beauty is only skin deep. The microtrend of feminism is the inspiration behind the shoot concept. The underlying theme of feminsim can be used as inspiration for campiaigns in order to market women’s tailoiring. This transfers meaning to the garments which signify gender equality, and the power of women a subject that is important at this period of time and resonates with the target consumer.
HAIR AND MAKEUP To avoid looking conventionally beautiful and to rebel against societies expectation for female models to look glamourous, the models wore minimal, natural makeup. The hair was slick back, giving the models an adrogynous look which was important for the concept as this symoblised the idea that women do not have to look feminine to be strong, successful and powerful.
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32
SHOOT
LOCATION
T
he images were shot along the canal side as this area had both industrial and natural elements. The juxtaposition of the large, manmade concrete structures with the greenary and swans swimming along the canal created a beautiful, yet edgy scenary. This was relevant to the concept of the shoot as it is about beautiful women being strong and powerful. This location was chosen over a studio as the area we chose had a wide variety of different backgrounds helping to tell the story.
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VOGUE
EDITORIAL
You will work some of your images into a blog or piece of fashion editorial – think in particular about the language of fashion and what is appropriate for your audience Max 250 words & 5 images for blog or editorial ( not included in word count) – make sure you specify what publication & who the target consumer/reader is. Please note it should look like a real mock up of a blog/fashion editorial for print or digital. Explain reasoning to show critical evaluation and understanding.
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From left to right...
MODEL 1 Shoes- Doc Martens socks- Kappa Blazer- Vintage Sunglasses- eBay
MODEL 2 Shoes- Doc Martens socks- Kappa Blazer- Vintage Sunglasses- eBay
MODEL 3
Shoes- Converse socks- Kappa Blazer- Vintage Sunglasses- eBay
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MODEL 4
Shoes- Doc Martens socks- Kappa Blazer- vintage Sunglasses- eBay
MODEL 5
Shoes- Doc Martens socks- Kappa Blazer- vintage Sunglasses- eBay
Blazer- Zara
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Women's tailoring is back on trend for 2018, at a time where feminism is more important than ever. From the lack of women in board rooms to the gender pay gap, the shared language of fashion allows us to communicate that we’ve had enough. The oversized vintage blazer is used to create a parody, worn in the past by a male, women are representing their anti- conformist attitudes. Ditching the shirt and trousers and pairing the blazer with a worn out pair of Doc Marten boots. The tailoring trend en to communicate
allows their
wompower Â
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CONCLUSION
T
he lifecycle of trends is shorter than ever, with a high demand for new designs due to exposure of imagery on social media from both celebrities and socila media influencers. Innovators want to stay unique and are therefore, driving the new trends as other people begin to copy as the trend becomes more popular. The tailoring trend is one that has reoccured in the past 5 decades, with the suit in particular being constantly re- adopted to fit the modern day consumer. The trend is likely to occur again in the future but will reflect the political and social influences of that time. Brands in the future are likely to become more transparent, with consumers seeking authenticity. Consumers are predicted to become more concerned about the ethics of brands they are buying from, with millenials in particular demanding transparency, brands will have to meet the expectations of an evolving, increasingly demanding consumer. According to Waitrose food, a third of people in the UK care more about the environment and society than they did 5 years ago.(Eurominitor, 2016). A more sustainable alternative to polyester could be used in the future, with a minimal environmental and social impact. The tailoring trend has proven successful for retailers so far with a 45% increase in the blazer and a 108 % increase in the evening suit, according to WGSN.
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IMAGE
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