EUROPE AMAZING 40 EXPERIENCES
40 years of amazing experiences
1EUROPE
Famous for giving the world fine wine, the Renaissance, high fashion, opera and the sandwich, these days this captivating collection of countries also allows you to enjoy experiences as diverse as surfing some of the world’s biggest waves, sipping afternoon tea, exploring ancient ruins, and discovering your inner pop star. With such a vast array of things to do, perhaps the greatest challenge is working out what to do first. Will you kick off in one of Europe’s great capitals – Paris, say, for wonderful views across this most romantic of cities, or London for a look at refined Georgian England? Will you get off the beaten path and immerse yourself in dramatic Mediterranean landscapes, or let your appetite lead you on a gastronomic tour of Spain? Swim the Greek Islands, eat with Venetians, or just relax at a Barcelona beach bar? These are just a few of our 40 amazing Europe experiences. And once you’ve enjoyed these, there are plenty more to discover for yourself.
MAP EUROPE
What to know
What to do
40
AMAZING EXPERIENCES
1.2
What to
know
Helpful Info •
ATMs: Widely available in cities and towns, may be scarce in villages.
•
Credit cards: Visa and MasterCard more widely accepted than others; the smallest places may not accept any cards.
•
Tipping: Varies by country, 10% is a good general guideline.
Getting There & Away •
European gateway airports: The airports in London, Frankfurt, Paris, Rome and Athens are among the major gateways, but most major European cities receive flights from abroad.
Getting Around
What to Bring
•
•
Antibacterial gel or wipes / Avoid swapping surface germs with a horde of other travelers.
•
Travel-size detergent / You’ll often wish you could wash something out in the sink. With this, you can.
•
Lonely Planet’s phrasebooks / Saying “Jo napot” in Hungarian or toasting prost in German goes a long way towards making friends.
•
Swiss Army knife / A multi-use tool often comes in handy for cutting bread or salami and opening beer and wine…. Just remember to keep it in your checked luggage.
•
•
Air: The proliferation of low-cost carriers across Europe has made it easy to cover a lot of ground in a short space of time. Train: With the exception of Greece and Turkey, most of the countries in Europe are well connected by rail. Buses: Long distances by bus may be a tad cheaper, but you’ll trade in comfort.
Advance Planning •
•
•
Three months ahead Start re¬searching airfares. If you plan on traveling in July or August, book even further in advance.
•
•
Two weeks ahead Book intra-European flights, but know that reserving even earlier will snag you a better fare.
Spring / For most of Europe, April and May are springtime. Crowds are fewer, costs sometimes less, and the weather pleasant (though the mountains will still be cool). Autumn/fall / September and October are good, when crowds are smaller and seasonal attractions haven’t closed for the winter yet. Christmas / OK, so Christmas is an expensive, chilly, busy time to visit. But we just love all the festive markets and decorations, and there are usually added concerts this time of year.
Currency •
•
One month ahead Depending on how scheduled you plan to be, make hotel reservations. If you’re winging it, at least book a bed for your first and last nights.
When to go •
Accommodations
Euro (€; Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Netherlands, Slovakia, Spain), pound (£; Britain), Swiss franc (Sfr; Switzerland), Czech crown (Kč; Czech Republic), forint (Ft; Hungary), kuna (KN; Croatia), Turkish lira (TL; Turkey)
•
•
•
Hostels offer the best bargain, and you don’t have to be a youngster to use them. You need to be a member of the Youth Hostel Association or Hostelling Interna¬tional to use affiliated hostels, but often you can stay by paying an extra charge.
Tech Stuff
Travel seasons
•
•
B&Bs, pensions & guesthouses. The traditional bed and breakfast is an institution throughout much of Europe. You’ll find these are usually the most character-filled places, and are typically budget or midrange.
Electricity. Europe runs on 220-240V, 50Hz AC. This varies from that in the US and Canada; converters for appliances from those countries are necessary.
Skiing/ The ski season in the Alps and in Slovakia’s High Tatras runs from roughly December to March. Higher elevations may have slopes open earlier and later.
•
Plugs. Most of Europe uses the two, round pin plug. The UK and Ireland use three-pin, square plugs.Adapters are available at airports.
•
Summer holidays/ July and August are the busiest times to travel in Europe; expect lines and booked-solid hotels. Plan ahead.
•
Wi-fi. Wireless Internet access is becoming more common across the continent—in hotels, bars, cafés and even on some public squares. Note that it’s rarely free.
Homestays & private rooms. Homestays are often a great way to see daily life and see local people. Make sure you bring a small gift for your hosts—it’s deeply ingrained in the cultural tradition in many areas. Hotels. Big-name chain, midrange stalwart or funky boutique, there are plenty of hotel choices. Re¬member, hotels in Europe are often small compared to those of other countries. Breakfast is sometimes included, be sure to ask when reserving a room.
Etiquette •
Watch the local customs for hand and body gestures. Be careful, for example, about raising your fingers to order two beers, even with your palm facing the bar staff; it’s rude in some countries. And if introduced to locals, follow their cues. While in charming France, Spain or Italy, it doesn’t matter if people don’t know you from Adam—they’ll still kiss you.
•
Internet terminals. Internet cafes are easy to find, and hotels often have business centers with computer access.
Films •
A Room with a View (1985) EM Forrester’s classic tale about an Englishwoman who travels to Italy and back in the 1900s.
•
Europe Trip (2004) Youthful comedy about a post–break up, cross-Europe trip to meet a German pen pal.
•
European Vacation (1985) Chevy Chase and the Griswalds’ usual zaniness. “Look, kids— Big Ben!”
•
From Russia with Love (1963) James Bond 007 spy flick filmed in Turkey
Books •
A Tramp Abroad: Mark Twain’s humorous 1870s look at Europe on foot.
•
Europe 101: History and Art for the Traveller. Insight into all those artworks and churches.
•
Europe: A History. Professor Norman Davies boils down European history down to one book.
•
In Europe: Travels Through the 20th Century. Journalist Geert Mak traveled the continent the final year of the millennium.
Websites
Music
•
•
European Jazz Masters. Tropical jazz, French pop, a Tuscan orchestra…
•
François-René Duchâble plays Bach, Beethoven, Scarlatti and Mozart: Classical music by Austrian, German and Italian composers.
•
German Drinking & Beer Garden Songs: 14 All-Time Favorites. Learn ’em by heart.
•
Mediterranean Sunset. Blends traditional eastern instruments like the mandolin and bouzouki with Spanish guitar.
Arts in Europe (www.artsineurope. com). On exhibits and art in Belgium, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Hungary, Spain and Germany.
•
Eurocheapo (www.eurocheapo.com). Budget-friendly ideas for European travel.
•
Lonely Planet Community Blog (www. lonelyplanet.com/thorntree). Tips from the traveler community.
•
•
Restaurants in Europe (www.foodeu.com) Articles, recipes, and those Michelin stars explained. The Man in Seat 61 (www.seat61.com) Dream about traveling by train anywhere in Europe.
Be forwarned •
•
•
•
Putumayo Presents: Music from the Wine Lands. Sounds from southern countries like France, Spain and Italy.
1.2
What to
do
Shopping
Iconic experiences
1. Milan. Designer garb at the Golden Quad, cut rates at street markets.
1. A trip around the London Eye. Touristy, but great South Bank views from a giant Ferris wheel.
2. Grand Bazaar, Estanbul. Four thousand shops. Enough said. 3. Nuremberg. Germany’s premier Christmas market. 4. Portobello Road, London. Crowded street market filled with antiques. 5. Prague. Bohemian Moser crystal and more, in Nové Mesto.
Travel light. Within Europe, most airlines charge for the number of bags and the weight. Know the regulations.
6. Brussels. Chocolate, comics and lace all widely available.
Misplacing things happens. Keep copies of your passport and drivers licence in a separate place from the real things. Of all the items we’ve lost, these trickiest two to replace.
Top-notch museums
August slowdown. Countries in the sunny climes, especially France, take their vacations in August; some restaurants and businesses close.
1. British Museum, London. A treasure trove of Egyptian, Etruscan, Greek, Oriental and Roman artifacts. 2. Louvre, Paris. Mindboggling array of art inside an equally impressive palace. 3. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam. A master-filled collection valued in the billions.
More Info •
•
Measurements. Except for the UK where metric and imperial measurements are used, Europe uses the metric (kilometers and liters) system. Visas. Not required in most countries for most nationals; Turkey is the exception.
4. Uffizi Gallery, Florence. The world’s greatest assembly of Italian Renaissance art. 5. National Archaeological Museum, Athens. A vast collection from all the ancient civilizations across Greece. 6. Museo del Prado, Madrid. A seemingly endless parade of priceless artworks from Spain and beyond.
2. Tasting French wine where it grows. Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne… let your palate be your guide. 3. Island hopping in Greece. Take a ferry from Piraeus to the Cyclades, Crete, Corfu and more. 4. Balloon ride over Cappadocia. Float over the ethereal fairy chimney rock formations in central Turkey. 5. An idle café day in Vienna. Idle over coffee and cake for hours at a turn-of-the-20thcentury café.
Literary & artistic haunts 1. Les Deux Magots, Paris. Stop for a café au lait at Hemingway’s favorite Parisian café. 2. Teatre-Museu Dalí, Figueres. Delve into the surreal world of Salvador Dalí at this zany art museum. 3. Trevi Fountain, Rome. See the fountain where Anita Ekberg got wet and wild in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita. 4. Castle Howard, Near York, England. Admire the fabulous stately home made famous in Brideshead Revisited. 5. Cephallonia, Greece. Explore the idyllic Mediterranean island that inspired Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. 6. Anne Frank Museum, Amsterdam. Pay homage at the tiny hideaway where Anne Frank wrote her famous wartime diary (now a moving museum).
2
40
AMAZING
EXPERIENCES
1
Hike the
Mani
See more in
GREECE 10th EDITION
Although it can no longer be described as ‘remote’, the Mani peninsula still holds a magic unlike anywhere else in Greece. For centuries the feuding families here were literally a law unto themselves, and this has contributed to the unique and proudly independent Maniot culture. These days, footpaths though wonderful landscapes draw hikers from around the world, eager to visit everything from rugged rocky highlands and hidden lush green oases, to small fishing tavernas and severe rock-solid tower houses.
Mani Peninsula
Greece
Euro
Greek
2
LIMENI FISHING VILLAGE, THE MANI
© Getty Images
92 Acharnon Street (John Lucas)
Lay siege to
Stirling
Castle
See more in
Scotland 7th Edition
Hold Stirling and you control Scotland. This maxim has ensured that a fortress of some kind has existed here since prehistoric times. Commanding superb views, you can’t help drawing parallels with Edinburgh castle, but many find Stirling’s fortress more atmospheric – the location, architecture and historic significance combine to make it a grand and memorable sight. This means it draws plenty of visitors, so it’s advisable to visit in the afternoon; many tourists come on day trips from Edinburgh or Glasgow, so you may have the castle to yourself by about 4pm.
Stirling Castle
Scotland
Euro
English, Scottish
STIRLING CASTLE, SCOTLAND
44 Scotland Street (Alexander McCall)
© Dennis K. Johnson
3
Cruise
Turkey ’s Turquoise Coast
See more in
Turkey 14th Edition
For many travellers to Turkey, cruising from beach to beach along the country’s beautiful Turquoise Coast is a highlight of their trip. Traditional sailing boats known as gülets make the journey from Demre to Olympos, calling at such scenic spots as Ölüdeniz and Butterfly Valley. Organise it with friends or make new friends onboard.
Turquoise Coast
4
Turkey
Turkish lira
TURQUOISE COAST
© Unknown author
Having joined Spaniards around the table for years, we’ve come to understand what eating Spanish style is all about. If we could distil the essence of how to make food a highlight of your trip into a few simple rules, they would be these: always ask for the local speciality; never be shy about looking around to see what others have ordered before choosing; always ask the waiter for their recommendations; and, wherever possible, make your meal a centrepiece of your day.
Eating Spanish style
gladiator at ’s greatest monument
Rome’s most iconic monument, the Colosseum, is a compelling sight. You’ll already know what it looks like from pictures, but no photograph can prepare you for the thrill of seeing it for real. For 2000 years, this arena has stood as the symbol of Roman power, as the striking embodiment of the terrible awe that Rome once inspired. You can climb its deeply stacked stands, trying to imagine them full of frenzied spectators screaming for blood, and also head underground to the hypogeum, the complex of corridors beneath the main arena.
Euro
Italian
See more in
Spain 9th Edition PAELLA, TIPICAL SPANISH FOOD
© Getty Images
Spain
Euro
Spanish
6
A Handbook for Travellers (Richard Ford’s)
Marvel at the
Rome
Italy
Spaniard
Turkey
Find your inner
Coliseum
5
Eat and drink like a
See more in
Rome 7th Edition COLOSSEUM
© Unknown author
Route 66 A.D. : On the Trail of Ancient Roman Tourists (Tony Perrottet)
Alhambra
See more in
Andalucía 7th Edition
The Alhambra is one of the world’s great architectural wonders. If the Nasrid builders of the complex proved one thing, it was that, given the right blend of talent and foresight, art and architecture can speak far more eloquently than words. Perched on a hill with the peaks of the Sierra Nevada as a backdrop, Granada’s towering Moorish citadel has been rendering visitors speechless for nigh on 1000 years. The reason: a harmonious architectural balance between human ingenuity and the natural environment. Fear not the dense crowds and the snaking queues; this is an essential pilgrimage.
Eating Spanish style
Spain
Euro
Spanish
ALHAMBRA
Mañana, Mañana (Peter Kerr)
© Getty Images
7
El Quemao,
Lanzarote
See more in
Canary Islands 5th Edition
Known to surfers as the ‘Hawaii of the Atlantic,’ the Canary Islands are full of worldclass surf spots, but none comes with a bigger reputation than Lanzarote’s radical left reef break, El Quemao. For expert surfers able to snag a wave off the locals, these huge barrels promise the ultimate rush. For those not quite up to El Quemao standard, nearby La Caleta de Famara offers ideal conditions for learners to get on a board and get wet.
8 Lanzarote
Spain
Euro
EL QUEMAO, SPAIN
© Istockphoto.com
Moravian vineyards
England
in
Among England’s many and varied traditions, afternoon tea is one of the most enticing and certainly one of the tastiest. Central to the ritual is the iconic beverage itself – brewed in a pot, ideally silver-plated, and poured carefully into fine, bone-china cups and saucers. Depending on where you are in the country, the tea is served with scones and cream, fruitcake or wafer-thin cucumber sandwiches – and sometimes all of the above. Fancy city hotels and traditional country cafes are among the best places to sample this epicurean delight. Pound
The Czech Republic 10th Edition
The Moravian wine experience is much more low-key and homespun than similar experiences in California or Australia. Rather than flash boutique hotels and Michelin-star restaurants, the wine scene here is more likely to involve harvest festivals and leisurely bike rides between family-owned vineyards. Traditionally known for robust reds, in recent years late-ripening whites have taken centre stage – look out for varietals of Rulandské šedé, Ryzlink vlašský and Veltlínské zelené.
Moravia
England
See more in
SOUTH MORAVIA 1 / 4
© Marek Musil
Mediterranean Winter (Robert Kaplan)
Spanish
Take afternoon tea
English afternoon tea
9
Cycle between
Surf the waves in
Czech Republic
Czech crown
Czech
10Piedmont Try ultimate
‘slow’ food in
See more in
England 7th Edition AFTERNOON TEA
© Unknown author
See more in
Italy 10th Edition
Though surrounded by lush wine country, the Piedmontese town of Cherasco is best known for its edible snails (lumache). In this neck of the woods they’re dished up nudo (shell-less) and dishes to look out for – should you want to try them – include lumache al barbera (snails simmered in Barbera red wine and ground nuts) and lumache alla piemontese (snails stewed with onions, nuts, anchovies and parsley in a tomato sauce).
CHERASCO
English
In Search of England (HV Morto)
Cherasco
Italy
Euro
Italian
© Getty Images
The Italian Way (Mario Costantino and Lawrence Gambella)
11
Enjoy sweeping
in Paris
See more in
Paris 9th Edition
In Paris’s 20th arrondissement, a few blocks east of boulevard de Belleville, the lovely but little-known Parc de Belleville ensnares a hill almost 200m above sea level. Stroll through lush gardens and up the steps to the top of the park for some of the best – and free – views of the city.
Paris
France
Euro
French
13
Dine in style at
city views VIEW OF PARIS
© Istockphoto.com
Al Sorriso restaurant
Unassuming-looking Al Sorriso, near Lake Orta in northern Italy, is one of the country’s best restaurants. Head chef Luisa Marelli has created a stellar reputation for herself with dishes like foie gras balanced with the sweetest red mountain currants or the reddish-purple prawns sourced in San Remo, describing her culinary style as Piedmontese with Mediterranean and international influences, and drawing adoring fans to this otherwise quiet village.
El Teide, Tenerife
Spain
Euro
Spanish
Italy
Euro
On the Shores of the Mediterranean (Eric Newby)
Italian
14
Unwind in a
Head to the top of
Start off gradually with a gentle hike around the base of Tenerife’s El Teide, kidding yourself that you are enjoying a stroll around the surface of the moon; it really is that extraordinary. The trails take you deep into an alien landscape with red, yellow and brown craters resembling giant prehistoric molehills, bizarre volcanic rock formations and pebble-like lapilli. Top it off by taking the cable car to the summit for the ultimate heady experience. Wrap up warm though; it can get pretty chilly up there in the clouds. El Teide
AL SORRISO © Unknow author
Yellow Studio (Stephen Romer) Al Sorriso
12
See more in
Italy 10th Edition
See more in
Canary Islands 5th Edition EL TEIDE, SPAIN
© Feargus Cooney
Corsican
paradise
See more in
France 10th Edition
If there is one crescent of sand in Corsica you must not miss, it’s Plage de l’Arinella, a serene, rock-clad cove with dramatic views of the citadel of Calvi across the water and one of the finest beach- dining experiences on the island. Wooden tables, strung on the sand and topped with straw parasols at Le MataHari immediately evoke a tropical paradise – and rightly so. From the stylish, shabby to the big windows looking out to Calvi beyond the waves, this is one special hideaway. The cuisine is creative: penne à la langouste, squid, fresh morue (codfish) or a simple tuna steak pan-fried to pink perfection.
CALVI, FRANCE
A Handbook for Travellers (Richard Ford’s) Plage de l’Arinella
France
Euro
French
Living Abroad in France (Terry Link)
© Guyland Doyle
15
Learn about
Lake Garda’s
prestigious olive oil
Lake Garda’s microclimate ensures ideal olivegrowing conditions, and Frantoio Montecroce’s farm, set in the hills above Desenzano, is the perfect place for a tutored tasting in the area’s oil. The same family has been harvesting olives for four generations and their oils have won numerous prestigious prizes. The mill’s granite wheels, gleaming machines and stainless steel vats give a real insight into the modern production process, while family members provide tasting tips. Desenzano
Italy
Euro
Italian
17
Imagine ancient
See more in
Italy 10th Edition OLICES AND OLIVE OIL, ITALY
© Getty Images
Roman life in
Ostia Antica
Not many people make it out to Ostia Antica, Rome’s version of Pompeii, but make the effort and you’ll find that its wonderfully preserved ruins are easily on a par with the more famous sites in the city centre. Walk along the central strip, the Decumanus Maximus, or potter around the Thermopolium, an ancient café, and you’ll get a much better idea of what a working Roman town looked like than you ever will exploring Rome’s forum. The site gets busy at weekends but is usually exhilaratingly empty during the week.
Eat like a
king in the
Lake District
If you can drag yourself away from the beauty of Ullswater and its surrounding hills, then just north of the lake you’ll find gastropub gorgeousness at the atmospheric, centuriesold Yanwath Gate Inn. It’s been named Cumbria’s Top Dining Pub three times by the Good Pub Guide, and the grub puts many of the country’s gastronomic restaurants to shame: expect wild venison, saltmarsh lamb, Brougham Hall chicken and crispy pork belly, chased down by Cumbrian cheeses and beers from three local breweries. Penrith
England
Pound
English
OSTIA ANTICA, ITALY © Getty Images
Francesco’s Mediterranean Voyage (Francesco Da Mosta) Al Sorriso
16
See more in
Italy 10th Edition
See more in
Great Britain 10th Edition UNKNOW AUTHOR
The Oxford Illustrated Literary Guide to Great Britain and Ireland
Italy
Euro
We Followed Odysseus (Hal Roth)
Italian
18
Get off the beaten track in
Sardinia
See more in
Sardinia 4th Edition
As much for the getting there as the being there, Sorgono rewards a detour. Deep in the heart of the Mandrolisai, the remote hilly area to the west of the Gennargentu, the village is surrounded by huge tracts of forest, full of ilex, cork, chestnut and hazel trees. In the vicinity, the Biru ‘e Concas archaeological site boasts one of the largest collections of menhirs in Sardinia, while, in town, the Cantina del Mandrolisai is one of the area’s most important wine producers, famous for its beefy reds.
Sardinia
Italy
Euro
Italian
On the Shores of the Mediterranean (Eric Newby)
19
Irish farm
southern Crete
See more in
Ireland 10th Edition
If you are beguiled by the beautiful Waterford countryside, on Ireland’s south coast, why not bed down in the middle of it, with only the sound of a snoring cow to break the silence? Waterford Farm Accommodation arranges stays on local farms, with places such as Dungarvan (and its commanding Norman castle), Ardmore (and its ancient church), and the Ring Peninsula (with its Gaelic-speaking locals) all close by and worth exploring.
Waterford
Euro
England
English
21
Travel round
Hit the hay on an
DUNGARVAN CASTLE, IRELAND
© Richard Cummins
by
This is for escapists, beach lovers and adventurers – and it’s so easy! Large sections of southern Crete’s mountainous coast are accessible only by sea, and a hop-on, hop-off boat service allows you to see some remarkable sites, such as the glittering jewel of Loutro, tucked between secluded beaches, and laid-back Sougia, with its friendly folk and fresh seafood. The beginning and end of the voyage represent two of the most iconic (and affordable) towns in Crete, full of rugged individuals and live Cretan music.
Step back in time in
Lisbon
Portugal
Euro
Portuguese
Lisbon 2nd Edition
Living in Portugal (Anne De Stoop)
Euro
Catalan, Spanish
22
Betlem
See more in
LISBON
Spain
Do very little in ,
Stroll back to an age when purchases were still hand-wrapped, shopkeepers knew customers by name, and stores traded solely in tinned fish, buttons and bowler hats in the cobbled alleyways of Baixa in the centre of Portugal’s capital. And after you’ve tired yourself out at the speciality shops, toast the city’s past (and your new purchases) Lisbon-style, with a glass or two of ginjinha (cherry liqueur).
Lisbon
See more in
Crete 5th Edition
SOUGIA FERRY, GREECE
© Istockphoto.com
Vitali’s Ireland (Vitali Vitaliev) Barcelona
20
boat
© Getty Images
Mallorca
Not much goes on in this small village on Mallorca’s north coast — which is reason enough to visit it when the norm on the rest of this island is often loud and lively packageholiday resorts. Along the coast, a 3km 4WD trail hugs the Aleppo-pine-fringed shoreline until it reaches a tiny protected bay called Es Caló. A couple of sailboats occasionally find shelter here, a handful of people stretch out on the stony strand and swim in the turquoise waters– all in all, a peaceful but rewarding escape from Mallorca’s tourist traps.
Betlem
Spain
Euro
Catalan, Spanish
Between Hopes and Memories: A Spanish Journey (Michael Jacobs)
See more in
Mallorca 2nd Edition MALLORCAN SUNSET, SPAIN
Tuning Up at Dawn (Robert Graves)
© David C Tomlinson
23
Chill out in
Barcelona’s
beach bars
During Barcelona’s long summer months, small wooden beach bars – affectionately known as chiringuitos – open up all along the sand, from Barceloneta all the way up to Platja de la Nova Mar Bella. Here you can dip your toes in the sand and nurse a cocktail while watching the city at play against the backdrop of the deep blue Mediterranean. Ambient grooves add to the laid-back environment.
Barcelona
Spain
Euro
Catalan, Spanish
25
Spend an evening in
See more in
Barcelona 8th Edition BARCELONA’S BEACH © Getty Images
Georgian
24 Greece
Euro
Greek
SOUGIA FERRY, GREECE
© Istockphoto.com
Between Hopes and Memories: A Spanish Journey (Michael Jacobs) The Nederland
26
Euro
Dutch
Go wild
See more in
Greece 10th Edition
Laid-back Leros, one of Greece’s Dodecanese islands, feels both remote and happening. With a beautiful port town, cool cafes, some great dining and lovely vistas, it’s a popular spot with domestic travellers but doesn’t see many foreign guests. The island is crowned with a stunning medieval castle, one of a number of worthwhile sights, and its small, sandy beaches offer good swimming. If you’re after relaxation in comfort, Leros is a very good choice.
Leros
London 8th Edition
Hidden on a side street in the Spitalfields area of east London is Dennis Severs’ House, a quirky hotchpotch of an eighteenth- century house, named after a late American eccentric who restored it and turned it into what he called a ‘still-life drama’. Visitors wander through ten rooms, each recreating a specific time in the house’s history from 1724 to 1914. It’s a unique and intriguing proposition by day, but the ‘Silent Night’ tours by candlelight every Monday evening are even more memorable.
Amsterdam
Relax in Leros
See more in
London
LEROS CASTLE AND TOWN, GREECE © Feargus Cooney
Greece From the Air (Yann Arthus-Bertrand)
on
Mull
The Isle of Mull, off Scotland’s west coast, offers varied landscapes and habitats, from high mountain and wild moorland to wave-lashed sea cliffs, sandy beaches and seaweed-fringed skerries. And if that wasn’t enough to make you book the next boat over there, the waters around the island also offer the chance to spot some of Scotland’s rarest and most dramatic wildlife, including eagles, otters, dolphins and even whales.
Mull
Scotland
Pound
English, Scottish
Architecture in Berlin (Arnt Cobbers )
See more in
Scotland’s highlands DUART CASTLE, ISLE OF MULL, SCOTLAND © Getty Image
Stone Voices: The Search for Scotland (Neal Ascherson)
27
Laze away a
summer’s
day at
Amsterdam’s
Vondelpark
See more in
Amsterdam 8th Edition
On a sunny day it seems the whole of Amsterdam converges on this sprawling equivalent of New York’s Central Park. Couples kiss on the grass, friends cradle beers at the outdoor cafes, while others trade songs on beat-up guitars. It’s all very democratic, and sublime for people watching. The Englishstyle layout offers an abundance of ponds, lawns, thickets and winding footpaths that encourage visitors to get out and explore the free-wheeling scene. The Nederland
Euro
28
Dutch
Architecture in Berlin (Arnt Cobbers )
See more in
France 10th Edition
Perched on its rocky pinnacle, 427 metres above the French Riviera, the medieval village of Èze is today a beautiful home for the one-off galleries and artisan boutiques hidden within its walls. The high point is the Jardin d’Èze, a slanting cliffside garden of exotic cacti with views of the Med all the way to Corsica (on a good day). To explore the village’s nooks and crannies after the tour buses have left, stay at the magnificent Château Eza, which also has a lofty gastronomic restaurant and terrace.
Èze
France
Euro
French
Croatia
See more in
Croatia 7th Edition BAŠKA BAY AND TOWN, CROATIA
© Ruth Eastham
© Richard Cummins
Live the high life in medieval
Eze
in
Many of the beaches on Krk, Croatia’s largest island, are heavily developed and crowded in summer, but take the superlative drive south of the village of Punat, through steep parched hills and lunar scenery, to Stara Baška and 500m before the first campsite there you’ll find a series of gorgeous pebble-and-sand coves with wonderful swimming. You’ll have to park on the road, and then walk down one of the rocky paths for five minutes to get to the coast but it’s well worth it.
AMSTERDAM GARDEN Amsterdam
29
Find seaside serenity
MEDITERRANEAN FROM ÈZE, FRANCE © Kristin Piljay
Sixty Million Frenchmen Can’t Be Wrong (Jean-Benoit Nadeau and Julie Barlow)
Krk
Croatia
Kuna
Café Europa – Life After Communism (Drakuli)
Croatian
30
Feel the sand between your toes on the
Dune du Pilat
The Dune du Pilat, southwest of Bordeaux, is a ‘mountain’ that just has to be climbed. Not only is the coastal panorama from the top of Europe’s largest sand dune a prizewinner – it takes in the Banc d’Arguin bird reserve and Cap Ferret across the bay – but the nearby beaches have some of the Atlantic Coast’s best surf. Cycle here from Arcachon and top off the heady trip with a dozen oysters, shucked before your very eyes and accompanied by crépinettes (local sausages).
Dune du Pilat
France
Euro
French
See more in
France 10th Edition DUNE DU PILAT, FRANCE © Andrew Bain
This Night’s Foul Work (Fred Vargas)
31
Delve into
history
Baeza and Ubeda in
See more in
Andalucia 7th Edition
These two little-visited Andalucian outposts, etched in the olive groves of Jaén province, look more Italian than Spanish. It’s the perfectly intact Renaissance architecture that deceives you. The monumental palaces and symmetrical civic buildings introduced Renaissance ideas to Spain and ultimately provoked its transference to Latin America. In 2003 Baeza and Úbeda joined the Holy Trinity of the Alhambra, Córdoba’s Mezquita and Seville’s cathedral as an Andalucian Unesco World Heritage Site, yet they get far less foot traffic. Andalucía
Spain
32
ANDALUCIA
© Richard Cummins
Beat the crowds at the
du
Gorges
Verdon
What’s special about Europe’s deepest canyon and one of France’s most popular summer hotspots? The fact that you can enjoy it in so many different ways, many of which will see you escaping the crowds too. You can walk, you can cycle, you can drive along the cliffs, and you can thunder down the river on a raft or in a kayak. However you do it though, you’re guaranteed to be mesmerized by the ethereally green water and the sheer scale of this natural wonder, whose impact not even the many other visitors can diminish.
Gorges du Verdon
France
Euro
French
Cacela Velha
The cote d’Azur 7th Edition
The Man who Married a Mountain (Rosemary Bailey)
Portugal 8th Edition
Portugal
34
Euro
Portuguese
PORTUGAL
© Getty Images
in
Tuscany
Picnicking atop Lucca’s city walls is as lovely (and typical) a Lucchesi lunch as you’ll find. Buy fresh-from-the-oven pizza and focaccia with a choice of fillings and toppings from fabulous ‘n’ famed bakery Forno Amedeo Giusti (Via Santa Lucia 20), then nip across the street for a bottle of Lucchesi wine and Garfagnese biscotti al farro (spelt biscuits) at Antica Bodega di Prospero (Via Santa Lucia 13); look for the old-fashioned shop window fabulously stuffed with sacks of beans, lentils and other local pulses.
Lucca
Italy
Euro
Italian
© Juampiter
The Portuguese: The Land and Its People (Marion Kaplan)
Picnic on city walls
See more in
COTE D’AZUR
See more in
Portugal’s Algarve coastline has plenty of places to relax but the enchanting, small and cobbled village of Cacela Velha is something special. It’s a huddle of whitewashed cottages, a pocket-sized fort, orange and olive groves, and gardens blazing with colour, all sitting above a gorgeous stretch of sea, with a couple of excellent cafe-restaurants, splendid views and a meandering path down to the long, white beach.
Algarvel
Spanish Steps sees (Tim Moore)
Spanish
Euro
33
Unwind in
We Followed Odysseus (Hal Roth)
See more in
Italy 10th Edition © Unknow author
35
Float down the
Cetina River
The Cetina is the longest river in Dalmatia, the sea-kissed jewel in Croatia’s crown. Stretching 105km from the eponymous village, it flows through the Dinara mountains and the fields around Sinj, before gathering speed and pouring into a power plant around Omiš. It is an extraordinarily scenic journey as the limpid blue river is bordered by high rocky walls, thick with vegetation, and the best way to enjoy it is on a rafting trip, braving the rapids on a threeto four-hour trip. Cetina River
Crotia
Kuna
Croatian
36
produce at inventive
See more in
Croatia 7th Edition CETINA RIVER, CROATIA
© Istockphoto.com
Another Fool in the Balkans (Tony White)
x factor at Berlin’s
Bearpit Karaoke
From roughly late spring to autumn, the German capital’s greatest free entertainment spectacular kicks off on Sundays around 3pm when Joe Hatchiban sets up his custommade mobile karaoke unit in the Mauerpark’s amphitheatre. As many as 2000 people cram onto the stone seats to cheer and clap the stream of eager crooners ranging from giggling 11-year-olds to Broadway-calibre belters. Give generously when Joe passes the coffee can, for this show must go on forever.
Germany
Euro
Venissa
Dutch
See more in
Germany 7th Edition KARAOKE © Unknow Author
See more in
Venice 8th Edition
A single roasted scallop daintily dips its red foot in a black espresso reduction: starting with her highly amusing amuse-bouche, Venissa’s chef, Paola Budel, treats local ingredients with the evident delight of an Italian chef returned home from restaurants abroad. The culinary stars (including the Michelin variety) are aligning over Mazzorbo, Venissa’s lush garden-island home. And you can practically eat the island landscape here in Budel’s bowl of breadcrumb gnocchi swimming in a fragrant, herbal broth of wild fennel and asparagus shoots. Mazzorbo
See who’s got the
Berlin
37
Tuck into Venetian
Italy
38
Go
swimming
in Greece
One of the more unusual tours in Greece takes you island hopping under your own steam. Swim Trek offers swimming adventure holidays through the closely knit islands of the Cyclades. In fact, its Little Cyclades’ venue has got to be one of the finest, inspired by the wild swimming activities of the poet Lord Byron, who famously swam the Hellespont and is said to have also braved Cycladean waters between penning a poem or two. Participants swim approximately 5km each day with dolphins, turtles and monk seals along isolated coastline.
See more in
Greece 10th Edition
GREECE
Architecture in Berlin: the 100 most important buildings (Arnt Cobbers ) Little Cyclades
Greece
Euro
© Juampiter
Italian Fever (Valerie Martin Kaplan)
Italian
Euro
VENICE
Greek
Eurydice Street: A Place In Athens (Sofka Zinovieff)
© Unknow author
39
Get your
boots on
Northern Italy in
Northern Italy crowded? Not if you bring your hiking boots. Shoehorned between the rice-growing plains of Piedmont and the sparkling coastline of Liguria lie the brooding Maritime Alps – a small pocket of dramatically sculpted mountains that rise like stony-faced border guards along the frontier of Italy and France. Smaller yet no less majestic than their Alpine cousins to the north, the Maritimes are speckled with mirror-like lakes, foraging ibexes and a hybrid cultural heritage that is as much southern French as northern Italian, all just a hike away from being discovered.
40 Maritime Alps
Italy
Euro
See more in
Italy 10th Edition ITALY
© Istockphotos.com
The Last Italian (William Murray)
Italian
Take a
St Bernard
for a walk
See more in
Switzerland 7th Edition
Big softie or not, everyone loves a St Bernard, so Fondation Barry has come up with a clever plan. From July to September, you can take these doe-eyed dogs for a 1½-hour walk on the Col du Grand St Bernard – a oneoff chance to lap up the incredible Alpine scenery in the company of these world-famous canines.
BERNARD DOG, SWITZERLAND
© Christian Aslud
Feeling inspired? Make it happen. Lonely Planet knows Europe. Our expert authors have checked out thousands of places to see, eat, drink, shop, and more: they’ve poured their knowledge into our worldleading guides, which are available in print and as ebooks. For a complete listing of titles visit lonelyplanet. com AMAZING EXPERIENCES START HERE. COUNTRY & CITY GUIDES REGIONAL GUIDES SHOESTRING, BEST TRIPS, FULL COLOUR DISCOVER GUIDES, POCKET GUIDES
Col du Grand St Bernard
Switzerland
Swiss franc
German
Alpine Points of View (Kev Reynolds)
BOOK EBOOK MOBILE