Walk on the wild side

With a diverse range of geographic, historic and cultural features along the way, the Peaks of the Balkans trail winds through breathtaking Montenegrin scenery to offer one of the most unspoiled hiking routes in Europe, says Rudolf Abraham

I FIRST VISITED SOME OF THE TRACKS and paths which would later become part of the Peaks of the Balkans trail, in the remote northeast corner of Montenegro, back in 2004. I remember the Ropojana valley as a hauntingly beautiful place, silent and still, with fingers of low cloud clinging to the surrounding crags and obscuring what would otherwise have been a breathtaking view of saw-toothed ridges and jagged limestone peaks. We followed a 4x4 track along the valley floor, then hiked up through the trees on a forest path to emerge on a grassy saddle above an elongated, slate-grey lake, somewhere on the far side of which lay the unmarked border with Albania. The continuation of this path, I knew, led over a high pass to the Theth valley in Albania, but the border here was closed to trekkers and required a great deal of paperwork to negotiate. Once upon a time (in 1900, to be exact), the intrepid British traveller Edith Durham rode over this way from Theth village, journeying in disguise to avoid detection as this corner of the Balkans was still an outpost of the Ottoman Empire.

She described the nearby village of Gusinje as ‘the Lhasa of Europe’ in the book High Albania, her account of her journey. How nice it would be, I thought, if this route was one day opened up to hikers…

Fast forward a dozen years to 2016, and I was back in the Ropojana, writing the first English-language guidebook to the Peaks of the Balkans trail, which was published in 2017 by Cicerone. The valley really hadn’t changed that much in the intervening years, I found. The only real differences were that I no longer needed to go and apply for a hiking permit at the police station in nearby Gusinje, and that, this time, the lake at the head of the valley had disappeared. (The lake owes its fickle nature to the fact that it’s fed only by snowmelt, with the water then gradually draining away through karst drainage holes.)

The Peaks of the Balkans is a long-distance, cross-border hiking trail, stretching for just under 200km through the rugged, wild and still wonderfully remote borderlands of Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo. The route takes in some staggeringly beautiful mountain scenery, from peaceful valleys to lush pastures, glittering lakes, rocky passes, stupendous cliffs and national parks. It also passes through unspoiled villages, some of which seem to have been forgotten by time, and where food and accommodation are provided by a handful of traditional village homestays. It takes around 10 days to walk the whole thing, or you can dip into parts of the route and, in a couple of places, create shorter circuits. There are some excellent local tour operators offering knowledgeable local guides, as well as baggage transfers for those who don’t fancy carrying their own pack.

There’s plenty of cultural interest on the trail, too, from stone tower houses or kula (the best of these are in Theth and Plav) to diminutive village churches, mosques, and, on the Albanian part of the route, a handful of small concrete bunkers. These are some of the half a million built by Enver Hoxha across Albania between the 1960s and 1980s, now long abandoned and slowly being subsumed by the surrounding landscape.

With a couple of exceptions in Kosovo, where route-finding can be more of a challenge, most of the trail is well marked, using existing paths and 4x4 tracks that are not technically difficult. However, anyone setting off on the Peaks of the Balkans needs to be aware that these mountains are remote and subject to notoriously fickle weather changes – hikers need to be suitably kitted out with decent walking boots, and warm and waterproof clothing, even on short trails, and even in the summer.

One other thing every hiker will need on the Peaks of the Balkans (at least, if they’re doing a chunk of it which crosses a border) is a cross-border permit. These are issued as a matter of course by all three countries on the trail and the process of obtaining them is supposed to be perfectly straightforward – except that it isn’t. While you can still go it alone and apply for permits yourself, my advice is to get a local agency to do it for you – Zbulo (zbulo.org) in Albania and Zalaz (zalaz.me) in Montenegro are both excellent and reliable and will arrange permits for you for a very reasonable fee. Both agencies were involved in setting up the trail in the first place so their knowledge of the area is unrivalled.

The idea behind the Peaks of the Balkans trail was to encourage sustainable tourism in these mountainous areas of Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo, bringing communities closer together across political borders and creating a sustainable income for the local population. The trail was set up by a German development corporation in tandem with local tourist offices and hiking clubs, and has been remarkably successful – due, in part, to effective marketing as well as the amazing scenery and uncluttered trails. That inexplicable allure of travelling somewhere relatively new and undiscovered, or off the beaten track, has also no doubt contributed something to its popularity, with much of these borderlands off limits to foreigners until comparatively recently. And yet, despite the increasing number of hikers setting off on the Peaks of the Balkans trail, the area remains underdeveloped and unspoiled in comparison to many better-known European hiking trails. There were plenty of days hiking the route when I met no more than a couple of other hikers, and perhaps a shepherd tending his flock.

Since it’s a circular route, it’s possible to start and finish the Peaks of the Balkans in any of the three countries it passes through. My preference has generally been to start from the town of Plav in Montenegro, since it’s very easy to get to. In terms of public transport, there are around five buses a day from Podgorica.

From Plav, the route crosses Vrh Bora to reach the village of Vusanje, before following the Ropojana valley up into Albania, crossing the spectacular Pëjë pass and descending to the village of Theth. From Theth it crosses the Valbona pass and enters the Valbona valley, then crosses another pass on the border with Montenegro below Maja Kolata, Montenegro’s highest peak. It descends into Albania again, going through the tiny village of Çeremi and the remote summer settlement of Dobërdol, before crossing the border into Kosovo and descending into the Rugova gorge. Crossing back into Montenegro, it passes through Babino polje then climbs to Lake Hrid, before descending to Plav once again.

Some local tour operators and guides prefer to deviate from the official route in a couple of places where the original can be improved upon, either by taking a more scenic (read: higher) trail or by cutting off a section which follows a road. The route over the Prosllopit pass between Valbona and Çeremi is one such variant – steep but worthwhile, through meadows and patches of old-growth forest, the ground carpeted with wild flowers on my visit, and masses of tiny blue butterflies flitting through the air. This was the ‘scenic version’, as Endrit Shima from Zbulo had called it, with a knowing smile, during a conversation while I was planning one of my trips on the Peaks of the Balkans.

The bulk of the scenery on the Peaks of the Balkans is part of the Prokletije mountains. The name means accursed and this rather forbidding title was suitably evocative to have enticed this writer to go and visit the area in the first place, but in reality it doesn’t do the area justice. Contrary to its name, it’s a spectacularly beautiful and wonderfully hospitable place, with rushing rivers and villages surrounded by fruit trees and, frankly, looks anything but accursed. Recently, some locals have coined an alternative name for Prokletije: the Blessed Mountains, which, perhaps, is closer to the mark.

The Montenegrin side of Prokletije is a national park. The newest and still the least visited of Montenegro’s five national parks, this glacier-scoured landscape (the glaciers themselves are long gone) is bristling with spiky mountain peaks boasting suitably evocative names like Očnjak (Fang) and Koplje (Spear).

The flora of the Balkans is extraordinary, constituting one of the richest areas of plant life in Europe, and Prokletije is no exception, with many species that are rare or endemic. It’s also a fantastic area for wildlife, with, for example, 130 species of butterfly recorded just within the Prokletije National Park in Montenegro. To put that figure in context, there are only around 60 species of butterfly in the entire United Kingdom, a much larger territory.

I’ve been hiking in the mountains and national parks of Montenegro for more than 15 years, from the well-known peaks of Durmitor to the pristine forests of Biogradska gora, and there’s no corner of this incredibly beautiful little country that I’ve found more compelling than Prokletije. Hiking the Peaks of the Balkans trail is a hugely rewarding experience, and the perfect introduction to the rugged landscapes of this fascinating region.

CHOOSE YOUR MONTENEGRIN ADVENTURE

AN UNDERWATER WORLD

Montenegro is fast becoming known as one of the best places to scuba dive in Europe. The many diving centres available offer courses from beginner level to advanced and Professional Association of Diving Instructors standards. Once up to speed, divers can observe the rich local marine life, which includes several types of coral and a multitude of fish species. Those who wish to try something a little bit different, or like to push themselves out of their comfort zone, can try one of the many variations of the sport, including night diving and drift diving, where the diver is transported by the current or tide.

Wreck diving is another variation on offer, and if this takes your fancy then you certainly won’t be disappointed: over the centuries, many military and merchant ships have sunk in Montenegrin waters and these make for exciting expeditions. Two examples include the Tihany steamship and the wreck of patrol ship PBR 512. The former sank in bad weather in 1917 near the island of Mamula, and the latter, once part of the Yugoslavian navy, was decommissioned in 1972 and used for missile target practice until she sank in 1983 in Žanjic Bay, near the Bay of Kotor. The waters off the coastal town of Ulcinj also conceal many shipwrecks, bearing witness to numerous battles defending the Adriatic shores.

Other diving sites include the old fishing town of Petrovac, which features many picturesque coves and small sandy gulfs. Donkova Seka reef, located next to the islets of Katič and Sveta Neđelja, is also well worth putting on the list, for its varied marine life and the number of different diving sites available. Finally, the Luštica Peninsula’s own Blue Cave – which takes its name from the way the light reflects the water, making the cave itself appear blue – is a must-visit.

UP, UP AND AWAY

Have you ever dreamed of flying? Why not do the next best thing and learn to paraglide? Alternatively, if you’re short of time, you could take part in tandem paragliding. Whether you take off in the Montenegrin mountains or from a boat in the Adriatic Sea, it’s a breathtaking way to view the local landscape.

ABOVE AND BEYOND

The Montenegrin winter sports scene is gradually gaining international traction. Even though you might not immediately associate the country with skiing or snowboarding, it has good options – without overly crowded slopes. Those who have skied or snowboarded the Alps many times might be surprised at what Montenegro has to offer. Its two main ski resorts, Kolašin (1,450m) and Savin kuk (1,515m) are both located in the vicinity of two mountainous national parks in the north of the country, Biogradska Gora and Durmitor.

Smaller resorts are also dotted around Montenegro’s mountainous region.

Thrill seekers will be enthralled by off-piste skiing and snowboarding. Žabljak and Sinjajevina are becoming known for adventurous options such as snowkiting (a kite is used to glide over snow and to power large jumps). As well as skiing and snowboarding, make the most of the wintry weather by ice skating, tobogganing or taking in the sights from a snowmobile. And après-ski? Sip on hot šljivovica (plum brandy) while gazing out over the mountains.

WET AND WILD

Allow three hours for the experience, and factor in the journey, as the Tara Canyon is more than three hours each way from Luštica Bay. However, it’s a picturesque trip and the route passes the crystal-clear Slano and Piva lakes – so be sure to take your camera.

INTO THE BLUE

What better way to explore the 293-kilometre Montenegrin coastline than to sail along it? The dramatic and impressive Balkan landscapes make for pinch-me moments and an unforgettable experience. Novices can learn to sail in the Bay of Kotor and those with more experience can voyage to hidden beaches and coves that can’t be reached on foot – or set sail down the coast and visit Montenegro’s north-westerly neighbour, Croatia, to discover two countries in one trip.

PUT YOUR BOOTS ON

The Gulf of Kotor region is a walker’s paradise where hiking paths are lined with classical rural architecture, and overlook sweeping vistas across the ancient settlements of Risan, Kotor, Perast and Tivat. From the Vrmac ridge, you can see Kotor on one side, and Tivat on the other, while the green hills divide the main Kotor Bay into the bays of Herceg Novi, Tivat and Risan. The main walking trail follows the mountain ridge along a network of old valley paths; unsurprisingly, it’s also a mountain-biking hotspot.

Further inland in Durmitor, Bobotov kuk is one of the highest peaks in Montenegro. Hiking here is to be attempted only by the adventurous, accompanied by mountain guides. The climb to the top is a full-day feat, taking in the naturally dramatic peaks and rocky terrains that make up the Durmitor National Park. The challenge is worth it for the spectacular view.

For those not quite ready to conquer mountain peaks, the Luštica Peninsula has several established trails. One, for example, takes hikers from Plavi Horizonti beach to Bigova village. There’s also a stunning hike through the hills from Radovići to Žanjic beach.

SADDLE UP

Go where no vehicle can take you and explore Montenegro’s mountains, rivers and forests on horseback. You’ll be following in traditional footsteps – many families still keep horses, as their ancestors did years ago when the terrain made four-legged transport a necessity. Whether you’re looking to do a half-day hack or an eight-day trip, there are tours for everyone, with the majority taking place from the Komani highlands, Vučje and Lake Skadar. Those whose bucket list includes riding on the beach should head for Ulcinj’s sandy stretches.