6 minute read
Mearle's is Back
Words by Terry Ommen
It’s been almost three decades since Mearle and Marilyn Heitzman sold their popular Visalia eatery, and still many people have fond memories of the man and the restaurant that bore his name: Mearle’s College Drive In. So what is it about him and his drive-in that left such a lasting mark on so many?
First of all, Mearle had good business savvy and embodied a work ethic reminiscent of an earlier time. He put in long hours each day, six days a week, and he was almost always decked out in a dressy white shirt and tie. He was a fixture in the restaurant and ran a tight ship. Without question, his restaurant had plenty of loyal customers. If asked why they liked it, one might get several different answers. Some would say the comfort food was tasty, especially the hamburger basket with a generous portion of fries, and fountain favorites like shakes and the “Brown Cow,” a mix of ice cream and root beer. Others would add that it was the friendly wait staff, all female, who treated them like family. Others praised its convenient location directly across from College of the Sequoias. Still others would cite the restaurant’s nostalgic ambiance including the horseshoe-shaped counter and stools, the jukebox, and the old framed photographs displayed throughout. But regardless of the reason, the American Graffiti-style drive-in brought customers in, many of whom have never forgotten the experience.
"...but there’s one man who is not satisfied with remembrances alone. He wants to bring back the glory days..."
And it wasn’t just locals that were drawn to the restaurant. A professional pilot’s association recommended it on their website calling it a “hamburger joint frozen in time.” As its notoriety took off, photographs of the drive-in began appearing on calendars and posters, and even became the centerpiece for television commercials. Movie stars and entertainers sought it out and in 1978, even former President of the United States Richard Nixon and his entourage ordered hamburgers, fries, and milkshakes, receiving personal service from Mearle himself.
Mearle Heitzman sold the restaurant in 1995 to long-time employee, Melissa Ward. Under the new ownership, it stayed open for a time, but struggled, and eventually closed. The Habit Burger Grill took over the building in 2010.
The "Brown Cow" was a popular Mearle's shake, a mix of ice cream and root beer.
Many people talk about the good old days at Mearle’s and are content to live with their fond memories, but there’s one man who is not satisfied with remembrances alone. He wants to bring back the glory days of the restaurant and continue the cycle of memories. His name is Johnny George.
George started planning for a new Mearle’s years ago and now the beginning of his dream is just days away. George is not new to the business world. The 87-year-old entrepreneur has been a businessman all of his life. The not-quite-Visalia-native was born in Selma, California on July 12, 1935, and arrived in Visalia six months later with his parents—and he never left. He loves Visalia, both what the town has given him, and its future path. He sees the Mearle’s project as a way for him to give back. “I want to do what I can for Visalia, the town that has taken such good care of me,” says George.
Even though the project is a George family effort, family members call Johnny the “torch leading and lighting the way.” His plan is ambitious, with a price tag of about $20 million. It will be built on the 7½-acre parcel of land that he owns on the northeast corner of Mooney Blvd. and Ave 264. The new Mearle’s will be the focal point, but it will share space with a gas station, minimart, office buildings and a large outdoor movie screen.
The restaurant will look like the original Mearle’s building, and will be officially called Mearle’s Mooney Drive In. Out of respect for Mearle Heitzman, who passed away in 2016, George asked Marilyn, Mearle’s widow, about the use of the name. She gave her blessing and added that Mearle would have been pleased with this project.
The architect for the restaurant is Larry Lewis, with Susan and Rick Mangini serving as architectural and design consultants. The building exterior will look like the original Mearle’s in color and shape, with a couple of notable changes. The back portion, or east wall, of the building will be two stories and contain offices. There will be an outside seating area, order and drive-thru windows, and plenty of parking.
The interior will have an old style Wurlitzer jukebox, a horseshoeshaped counter and stools, with an ice cream fountain in the center, and a customer waiting area. The kitchen will be in the rear of the building. Seating capacity inside will be close to 100.
Menus will be similar to the original, with many of the old favorites including an extensive array of fountain treats. Customers will be served using glassware and metal utensils—no plastic.
On the outside east wall of the restaurant, a large 17’x30’ screen will be mounted. Free movies will be shown regularly and Mearle’s will have an order window and serve as the theater concession stand. An event coordinator will be hired to schedule regular activities like car shows and movies.
Johnny George and his family are excited about the entire project, but it’s clear Mearle’s is their favorite part. Even 16-year-old Cris, Johnny’s great-grandson, is excited, saying, “I like how we’re taking something classic and bringing it back.” The restaurant is expected to open in 2025.
On Wednesday, July 12, 2023, at 10:00am, there will be a groundbreaking ceremony on the restaurant site. Not by accident, it is the same day Johnny George celebrates his 88th birthday. The George family would like to extend an invitation for all to come out and celebrate.
The Mearle’s project is updated regularly on Facebook by Johnny’s son, Rollin. Check it out under Mearle’s College Drive In.