History: More than a Mountain

More than a Mountain

The larger-than-life stories of Mt. Whitney

Story & Historical photos provided by Terry Ommen

Tulare County is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts, especially those who appreciate hiking. Measuring about 5,000 square miles (nearly the size of Connecticut), with fewer than half a million people living within its borders, the county has plenty of open space to enjoy. There are walking paths in towns and communities on the Valley floor and in the foothills, not to mention the numerous mountain trails that crisscross lush meadows, alpine valleys, granite peaks and the groves of Giant Sequoias, many of which are in Sequoia National Park. No matter what the skill level, there is a trail or path for everyone.

But of all the many hiking options, one stands out as the “granddaddy” of them all: Mt. Whitney. It’s certainly not the easiest destination, and some will argue it’s just the opposite, but everyone agrees that it is one of the most popular hikes. In fact, it is such a crowd pleaser that a special permit is required and only a limited number are issued.

What makes getting to the top of Mt. Whitney a trekker’s dream? For many, the desire is obvious. Pushing skyward to about 14,500 ft. in elevation, it’s the tallest mountain in the continental United States—earning successful hikers enviable bragging rights. The history of the mountain also adds to its mysticism. According to early pioneer, Tulare County historian, and respected California Supreme Court Judge William Wallace, native Paiute people paid homage to this important landmark, calling it Tumanguya (Too-man-igoo-yah) or “the very old man.” They believed that from its lofty heights, the Great Spirit watched over the people.

In 1852, when Tulare County was established, it claimed Mt. Whitney as its own, as the mountain was situated near the center of the county. When Inyo County formed in 1866 by breaking off the land on the eastern part of Tulare County, that exclusivity changed. The western line of Inyo County was created using some of the peaks in the Sierra including Mt. Whitney as boundary points. From that time on, the treasured mountain has been shared by both counties.

In 1864, members of the California Geological Survey team named the peak in honor of Josiah Whitney, the California State Geologist. Apparently, three fishermen from Lone Pine had not heard the news. At noon on August 18, 1873, the men made it to the top and the folks at Lone Pine wasted no time, proudly christening the mountain “Fisherman’s Peak.” The town fought hard to keep the name, but the name Mt. Whitney ultimately remained.

In 1871, Clarence King, U.S. Geologist, climbed what he thought was Mt. Whitney, but later discovered that in the cloudy weather he had summited another nearby mountain. About a month after the three fishermen made their claim, King corrected his misidentification and made it to the top of the real Mt. Whitney.

In 1873, famous naturalist John Muir made it to the top.

Famous naturalist John Muir made his first ascent in October 1873. While at the summit, Muir wrote that he found a yeast powder can with a note and coin inside. It said, “Gentlemen, the looky [sic] finder of this half dollar is wellkome [sic] to it.” The note was signed Carl Rabe, September 6, 1873. Muir left the half dollar and resealed the can. The prominent conservationist did not add his name to the note, and in fact he said, “I have never left my name on any mountain, rock or tree in any wilderness…”

In 1878, Anna Mills Johnston, Visalia teacher and nature lover, joined a group of packers leaving Porterville for Mt. Whitney. Johnston, who had been “lame from early childhood,” had been discouraged from making the trip due to her disability, but she was determined. At one point on the trail, her horse unexpectedly bucked, injuring her and putting her dream destination in doubt. But she rested and prayed, and on August 3, 1878, she and her fellow climbers planted the Stars and Stripes on the top as the group sang “The Star-Spangled Banner” and “Nearer My God to Thee.” “The supreme joy I felt when I realized that my prayer had been answered, and that I was at last really standing on the summit of Mt. Whitney, knew no bounds,” she wrote.

During the last quarter of the 19th Century, the trails leading to the mountain were crowded with travelers. Historians, educators, scientists, and hikers made their way to the top using various trans-Sierra routes. In 1903, the primitive trail from Lone Pine to the top was improved, making the trip much shorter. Now travelers could approach the peak from the west and east.

Visalian Anna Miles Johnston made it to the top of Mt. Whitney in 1878.

Members of the Lindsay, California Kiwanis Club pose on August 19, 1928 at the summit.

But the trip to Mt. Whitney was not all enjoyment and pleasure. It could be hard and dangerous. According to the San Francisco Call newspaper, the first reported death on Mt. Whitney occurred in the summer of 1904, due to a lightning strike. On July 26th while Byrd Surby, a one-time Visalia resident, was on the summit with others during a thunderstorm, he took a direct strike from a lightning bolt. He died instantly and his body was taken down the mountain to Lone Pine on a pack mule. He was returned to Visalia for burial.

Despite the dangers and hazards, the attraction to the mountain continues today, especially for those looking for that special challenge.

If challenges are motivating, consider Mt. Whitney. But don’t take the mountain or the preparation to get there lightly. Mt. Whitney can have unpredictable weather, so watch cloud patterns and choose the right gear. Four hikers died on the mountain within the last year. The various trans-Sierra routes require a week or so on the trail. If you prefer a quick trip to the mountaintop, consider taking the Lone Pine trail instead. Hikers can do the 22-mile round trip from Whitney Portal trailhead in one day.

Thousands have made it to the top, but many others have come up short. Whether you set out to summit the tallest peak in the continental U.S., or if lush meadows on the Valley floor are more your speed, the history of the Sierras awaits you.