The Garth

GARTH HOTEL

Since it was built in 1769 the Garth Hotel has been an important cornerstone of Grantown on Spey. It began its time as a highland woollen mill, has been a home to one of Queen Victoria’s favourite authors and has also been a residence to the town’s physicians and ministers. It is now firmly enjoyed as a vibrant and relaxed hospitality environment.

After new management took over the reins under the expert guidance of General Manager Peter Macnab, the hotel has quietly undergone some very subtle changes. Some of the reception rooms have been revamped and there is an ongoing programme of upgrading the bedrooms. Next in line will be the restaurant itself; not that it would need a vast swathe of “improvements” as it is already a very quiet, calm and intimate room that oozes atmosphere.

On two levels, the tables are spaced so that everyone is a comfortable distance away from neighbours; not so much that they feel like currants in a bun but just far way enough to allow for private conversations whilst still retaining that close intimacy. The lighting is provided by chandeliers and candles on the tables, music plays but does not intrude and the staff are professional and friendly without being intrusive. They have got the mix just right. Having heard very good reports about the food we decided to meet at the Garth Hotel to test the waters. Three friends who have dined out at several venues over the years, who appreciate fine dining and are always on the lookout for a new gastronomic experience, we are – in the vernacular – up for it.

It is a chilly but clear Monday evening and we arrive at 6-30pm, fully expecting the restaurant not to be full – but we are pleasantly surprised. It is rather busy, with many tables occupied. The warm welcome that we have received at reception follows us into the restaurant itself where we are seated at our window table, drinks order taken and menus presented with a flourish. And well might they be thus presented, as the dinner menu is nothing short of exceptional, worthy of a top ranking five star hotel. Five choices for the starters; five for the mains (with four additional choices of steaks and six choices of side dishes too), then five choices for desserts. To be followed by coffee and homemade petit fours. Wow. We all look at each other in amazement – this is some menu, to be sure.

Then the fun starts – what to choose? Back and forth go the decisions and heaven knows how many times the (patient) waitress visits our table; but, in all honesty, every single dish is worth savouring. We finally arrive at our choices and, in true chum form, we all have something different so we can try each other’s food. Why not? But we do draw the line in asking for three soup spoons, as one of us has chosen the carrot, orange and caraway soup, with smoked yoghurt and warm homemade bread. Just as well it comes with bread as we have demolished the warm rolls that were delivered to our table along with a bottle of ice cold water, as standard. The other two dishes chosen are braised Ardgay Estate venison shoulder with celeriac remoulade, savoy cabbage, pickled walnut and grain mustard and pan seared Atlantic scallops with shaved fennel, saffron emulsion, black pudding soil, chilli and ginger. My goodness! When the plates arrive they are a riot of colour and shapes – more like an oil painting by Jolomo than a plate of food. Gasps all round. It is a shame to take a knife and fork (or spoon, as applicable) to the dishes but hey ho, here we go. And yet another wow. The taste of each dish is indescribable; how on earth do all these various flavours that have been included in the manufacture of each dish, and would not normally be associated with these dishes – how come they work? And work exceedingly well. Everything is as tender as can be and the taste sensations continue until the last mouthful. They surely know what they are doing in that kitchen.

But will this high standard be continued into the next course? We are afforded ample time to discuss this fact, as the empty dishes are removed and their replacements come after a most respectful time (nothing worse than one

plate being whipped away from you and its replacement waiting immediately to be plonked down). That does not happen here at the Garth; they know that timing is critical and they afford their diners just the right amount of breathing space.

Balliefurth Farm 48 hour braised beef shin with garlic whipped potato, Jerusalem artichoke, red onion tartlet and smoked cheddar crust; garlic chicken supreme with chunky homemade chips, field mushroom, cherry tomatoes and onion rings and pan roasted Isle of Gigha halibut with saute purple potato, braised leeks, Chanteray carrots, spinach, samphire and saffron foam – who is the genius behind these imaginative dishes? More appreciative noises from all of us, to the amusement and obvious delight of the waitresses who are diligently looking after us. As with the starters, we have nothing but the highest praise to bestow on the chef.

It is exactly the same with the desserts : Disaronno and dark chocolate ganache, with caramelised banana, candied hazelnuts and roasted white chocolate; blood orange Bavarois with cinnamon soil, bitter orange puree, crushed meringue and roasted pecans and Cairngorm honey glazed plums with crystallised oats, passionfruit gel, lemon shortbread and salted caramel ice cream. This is a feast that even the pickiest eater could not find fault with – it is truly magnificent. So – we ask to meet the chef, as such a presentation of perfection cannot go unpraised. There are two chefs, we hear, and they will both come out to meet us. Head chef Adam Kyle and Chef de Partie Ryan Turner - and here comes the rub; the head chef is but 24 years of age and his partner in the kitchen not much more. How can this be? This is the work of highly experienced persons, who have been in catering for a good many years. A talent like this can travel the world creating exceptional dishes to tempt and excite the palate; is it any wonder that the hotel management are justifiably proud of their team.

This is not a pretentious hotel, swaggering under the weight of its own self-importance but a hotel that aims to give each and every guest a memorable experience. It is a hotel that prides itself on friendly professionalism with exceptional attention to detail. Definitely not one to be missed.

IMAGES BY

Tel: 01479 787 900

Castle Road, Grantown-on-Spey Highland, PH26 3HN

www.garthhotel.com