Like New York or Hong Kong, Dubaï is a vertical town which stands straight optimising the space it holds on the ground.. A dynamic and truly modern business center, Dubaï stands out as a pionneer among other cities of the Emirates, while it distinguishe itself from the other cities for its acceptance of foreigners. It is also becoming a model for the rest of the world. A city where the most utopic plans become reality.
Dubaï, the navel of the Gulf... Photos ©Pascal Meunier/LightMediation Text ®Maud Tyckaert Contact - Thierry Tinacci LightMediation Photo Agency +33 (0)6 61 80 57 21 thierry@lightmediation.com
1646-01: Dubai Festival. Under the Marylin's skirt, Emirats's inhabitants, coming for the Dubai Shopping Festival have a recreation after having spent time in shopping centers to dig out good deals. They wear subtle details on their clothes to recognize easily their Emirate.
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-01: Dubai Festival. Under the Marylin's skirt, Emirats's inhabitants, coming for the Dubai Shopping Festival have a recreation after having spent
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-02: Funfair. During the yearly Shopping Festival, families go everywhere. Despite wearing " abaya ", women have fun with attractions. The female
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-03: Hawk breeder. Against all expectations, population has not neglected her Bedouin origins for the modern business, and still
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-04: Funfair. For the youth, the yearly Shopping Festival is the best way to make encounters' Cohabitation is banned in the Emirates. To live
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-05:Twins Towers mosque. In the shopping center of the Twins Towers ther is one room dedicated to the cult. Men can buy goods and come to pray at
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-06: Fairmont Hotel.Atrium. Located close to the World Trade Center, Fairmont Hotel likes contrasts. Its sharp is like a traditional wind tower, and its
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-07: Burj Al Arab Hotel. It is the only one hotel with 7 stars. It became the icon of the Emirates. Inspired by the sail of dhows, arabic boats, its
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-08: The cove. On the dhows Eidemohma, a Somalian businessman collects oil cans, tyres made in China and bags full of pastas made in Italy to sell
1646-07: Burj Al Arab Hotel. It is the only one hotel with 7 stars. It became the icon of the Emirates. Inspired by the sail of dhows, arabic boats, its sharpe attracts a lot of curious people of the world. Built in 1994 and high of 321 meters, it was an architectural challenge at that time.
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-09: Change of boat in the cove. A shipowner from Sharjah has a look after the load : thousands packs of tea coming from Ceylon and
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-10: Hospital for hawks. Sold at exorbitant prices, hawks are pampered by their owners. A special hospital has been built in Dubai for hawks, in
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-11: Hospital for hawks. There are three new hospitals for hawks in the Emirates. The first one was created in Dubai, twenty years
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-12: Hospital for camels. A Pakistani veterinary is making a radiography on one camel. The owners of this camel are very rich, worried about
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-13: Koranic school. The Al Ahmadiya school was initiated by Sheik Ahmed Bin Dalmouk in 1912 financially supported by merchants of pearls.
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-14: Abras station.Water taxis. " Abras ", little water taxis carry out the crossing between the two sides of the city, for barely 50 " fils ". On
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-15: Abras station.Water taxis. " Abras ", little water taxis carry out the crossing between the two sides of the city, for barely 50 " fils ". / United Arab
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-16: Bangladeshi area. The block 103 in the Sikkat district, butchers, hairdressers and grocers native from Bangladesh have taken
1646-03: Hawk breeder. Against all expectations, population has not neglected her Bedouin origins for the modern business, and still perpetuates ancestral traditions. Hamad Ghanem Shaheen has chosen to devote his life to " salukis " and hawks farming. Nevertheless time is far when men crossed desert to provide for their family. Nowadays hunting is a noble and onerous art.
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-17: Bangladeshi butchery. The block 103 in the Sikkat district, butchers, hairdressers and grocers native from Bangladesh have taken
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-18: Mall Wafi. The typical shop of Dubai is large shopping arcades super-air-conditioned. Wafi is famous for its top of the range of boutiques and for
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-19: Mall Wafi. Purchases are made at the end of the afternoon. From 06 : 00 pm, shopping arcades of Dubai attract the crowds. In this way big
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-20: Shopping center Wafi. Purchases are made at the end of the afternoon. From 06 : 00 pm, shopping arcades of Dubai attract the crowds. In this
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-21: Mall City Centre. Many shopping centers in Dubai are like paradise for worldwide marketing managers. Each new article are tested, before
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-22: Emirates tower. The Twins tower of the Emirates aircraft company have been built in 2000 among the other skyscrappers on Sheik Zayed Road. /
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-23: The Tower. Achieved in April 2002, the Tower is on the Sheik Zayed highway. It is 243 meters high, with 54 levels and 372 flats. / United Arab
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-24: Burj Al Arab hotel.Atrium. Dizzy atrium, the largest of the world, at 180 meters high. / United Arab Emirates /
1646-21: Mall City Centre. Many shopping centers in Dubai are like paradise for worldwide marketing managers. Each new article are tested, before being sell in Europe. Huge shopping centers attract crowds and potential clients who would maybe adopt the perfume of Jennifer Lopez.
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-25: Burj Al Arab. Spa. The Assawan spa, located at the 18th level, is somptuous. It is named like this thanks to the stone known for its purity and its
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-26: Burj Al Arab hotel. Coming in the Burj Al Arab became an essential stopover for many tourists. Hostesses welcome with rose's water. If you are
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-27: Al Mahara restaurant. Located in the Burj Al Arab Hotel, this restaurant is famous for its heavenly decoration, its huge aquariums gathering rare
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-28: Heritage village. To extend the knowledge of Dubai to foreigners, the State invests in the restoration of old and historic districts. They
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-29: Heritage village. To extend the knowledge of Dubai to foreigners, the State invests in the restoration of old and historic districts. They
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-30: Heritage village.Bedouin aircraft. Despite its futuristic aspect, Dubai preserves traditions and art of living prior the discovery of oil. (Wearing
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-31:Cove. Dubai is crossed by Al Khor, a watercourse formed by the Gulf's cove. In The North-East, there is Deira, the modern downtown with its
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-32: Palm islands layout. Financially supported by the Governement, local and international banks, the Palm Islands Project (creation of two
1646-44: Gold souk. The gold souk is the most important in the Middle East, located in Deira gathers hundreds of stalls. Many jewellers are Indians. Dubai is the crossroads for gold and is the transit zone for 1/5th of the world gold.
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-33: World Trade Centre. The Fairmont Hotel opposite, we can look at the first building of Dubai : the World Trade Center, built in 1973. It marks
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-34: Fairmont Hotel. Close to the World Trade Center, in the business area of Dubai, the Fairmont Hotel likes contrasts. Its outside shape looks
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-35: .Children city. It is the first one kind of complex in the Gulf : a space of 77.000 m2 given to the children from 2 to 15 years old. Achieved in 2002,
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-36: Loading in the cove. Every day, tonnes of goods are loaded on dhows, which will cast off towards Iran, Djibouti, SomaliaÉ. In front of the modern
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-37: Beach wand works. Tourists come in Dubai for its dunes and its beaches, that is why the government wants to take care of these places. When
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-38: Shipyard of Jeddaf. At the end of the cove, a huge shipyard is devoted to the restoration of dhows. Many boats are still made of wood, even
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-39: Emirates women. During the yearly Shopping Festival, families go everywhere. Despite wearing " abaya ", women have fun with attractions.
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-40: Deira souk. Tiny tobacco shops, bric-Ă -brac workshops of the Deira district, look like typical street of old Cairo or Istanbul. Shopkeepers
1646-12: Hospital for camels. A Pakistani veterinary is making a radiography on one camel. The owners of this camel are very rich, worried about the competitiveness of their animals for the famous races organized in the Emirates.
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-41: Afghan shopkeeper. There is many Afghans in Dubai. Most of them are baker and fabric shopkeepers. / United Arab Emirates /
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-42: Duty free at the airport. The Duty free of the huge airport is opened 24h/24, offering many goods at a low price. / United Arab Emirates /
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-43: Gold souk. The gold souk is the most important in the Middle East, located in Deira gathers hundreds of stalls. Many jewellers are Indians.
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-44: Gold souk. The gold souk is the most important in the Middle East, located in Deira gathers hundreds of stalls. Many jewellers are Indians.
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-45: Cove. Abras stations (water taxis) stay along the Al Khor watercourse side. The cove is known for its pleasant walks in family, with its big parks
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-46: .The Friday prayer. Gathering for the Friday prayer on Naif Road. This district devoted to trade gathers many different foreign communities,
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-47: Race course for camels. Camels's training on the race course. It is an other aspect of the local culture. Inhabitants of Emirats do not use
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-48: Race course for camels. Camels's training on the race course. It is an other aspect of the local culture. Inhabitants of Emirates do not use
1646-08: The cove. On the dhows Eidemohma, a Somalian businessman collects oil cans, tyres made in China and bags full of pastas made in Italy to sell them in Somalia. He rents a boat and its crew to Osman, an Indian shipowner based in Dubai. When he arrives in Somalia, he finds quickly buyers for his goods. It's a very profitable business.
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-49: Fishmarket. The fishmarket employs Pakistani only. Opened at 6 :00 am, customers come to buy sharks, crabs or " hamour ", a typical fish of
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-50: Heritage House. This house was built in 1890 and converted into a museum in 2000 by the municipality of Dubai. It was the house of a famous
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-51: Koranic school Al Ahmadiya. Detail of architecture of the koranic school Al Ahmediya. This school has been created by Sheik Ahmed Bin
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-52: Ski desert. During weekends, inhabitants of Emirates flee the megalopolis for surfing on sand dunes, a fashionable sport, or to practise
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-53: .The Gold centre. The gold centre gathers hundreds of stalls were jewels and gold ingots are sold. 1/5th of the world gold pass through
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-54: Hawk breeder. Against all expectations, population has not neglected her Bedouin origins for the modern business, and still
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-55: Traditional architecture of the Emirate. Wind tower.
Dubai, the navel of the Gulf - Dubai, le nombril du Golfe / 1646-56: Burj Al Arab Hotel. It is the only one hotel with 7 stars. It became the icon of the Emirates. Inspired by the sail of dhows, arabic boats, its
1646-39: Emirates women. During the yearly Shopping Festival, families go everywhere. Despite wearing " abaya ", women have fun with attractions. The female condition evolves step by step inside Emirates themselves. Even the patriarchal tradition remains the law in the Emirates, the huge economic growth encourage women to have more autonomy and emancipation in the world of work. Officially women hold 40% of jobs in education, 35% in health, 20% in social issues and 28% as civil servants in the State Ministeries.
Synopsis. Dubai, the city of the future... Duba誰, the navel of the Gulf... Like New York or Hong Kong, Duba誰 is a vertical town which stands straight optimising the space it holds on the ground.. A dynamic and truly modern business center, Duba誰 stands out as a pionneer among other cities of the Emirates, while it distinguishe itself from the other cities for its acceptance of foreigners. It is also becoming a model for the rest of the world. A city where the most utopic plans become reality.
Audacious constructions Amazing towers made of glass, or elegant modern buildings decorated with the shapes and styles typical of the Arab world. (Dubai World Trade Center, Twins Towers, Internet City, Etisalat Tour, Emirates Towers...). Five star hotels also adopt futuristic shapes. Some of them are considered as architectural achievements : . Burj Al Arab has the shape of a sailing boat. As for the infrastructure, it is the gigantism that predominates : : 8 lane motorways...
Futuristic plans Palm Islands, two islands in the shape of palm trees are being constructed out at sea. It is a pharaonic construction which can be seen from the moon. Marina, the first intelligent city is completely controlled by computers.
A business Mecca
Modern shopping centers and traditional souks live side by side. They attract thousands of tourists from all over the world. : The souk of gold enjoys a flourishing trade, the shopping festival, the duty free center through which shoppers wander in electric cars...The Creek from which, thousands of wooden dhowns are loaded with 800 tons of goods which are destined for ports in Iran, Somalia, Djibouti everyday.
Dubaï, the navel of the Gulf... (French text) Les sirènes d'Hollywood et les pop stars les plus médiatiques du moment ont répondu à l'appel du Dubaï Shopping Festival. La gigantesque foire annuelle. Un parfum d'american way of life flotte dans l'air. Sur la grande roue d'al Seef street, Marilyn statufiée est vêtue de sa légendaire robe blanche, tandis que son voisin, Charlie Chaplin, arbore complet-veston et chapeau melon noir. Les costumes de ces deux mythes du cinéma tranchent singulièrement avec les sombres abayas des femmes et les dishdashas immaculées des hommes. Du train fantôme aux auto-tamponneuses, les attractions des forains n'attirent pas seulement les bambins. Jeunes couples, familles au complet ou comités d'amis se ruent dès le crépuscule aux quatre coins de la ville pour participer à toutes les animations proposées. A la recherche de sensations fortes, caméscope miniature dans une main, pop-corn dans l'autre. Pour autant, le Shopping Festival n'a rien de commun avec notre Foire du Trône. C'est avant tout un colossal supermarché en période de soldes. L'occasion pour trois millions de visiteurs de marchander à moindre coût appareils ménagers, voitures et bijoux pendant tout un mois. De toutes parts, on attire le quidam avec de grandes loteries bien dotées. Difficile de résister à la tentation et impossible d'éviter les banderoles aux programmes alléchants : «
Gagnez un kilo d'or par jour », « Repartez avec le dernier modèle de 4x4 »... Au Global village, un des lieux-phare du festival, les pays participants vantent dans des pavillons à l'architecture audacieuse les richesses de leur artisanat, les compétences de leurs entreprises et la beauté naturelle de leur patrie. Pour captiver le chaland mais surtout les investisseurs. Dubaï est avant tout une terre d'aubaine pour les hommes d'affaires du monde entier. « Ici, avant le Coran, la religion c'est le commerce ! » confessent certains avec une pointe d'ironie. Dubaï, une affaire de famille Une demi-vérité qui s'illustre dès les origines de l'émirat. Dubaï n'est alors qu'un petit village de pêcheurs, sous la coupe d'Abou Dhabi. En 1833, ses habitants, des membres de la tribu arabe des Bani Yas - et en particulier le clan des Al Bu Falasah - font sécession avec l'émirat voisin sous la houlette de deux hommes : Ubai Bin Said et Maktum Bin Buti. L'histoire retiendra le dernier de ces dissidents, qui fonde en 1852, la dynastie des Al Maktum, toujours en place aujourd'hui. Un interminable règne qui porte ses fruits. Car malgré les apparences, Dubaï ne s'est pas fait en un seul jour. Ni sous l'autorité d'un seul homme. Mais plutôt grâce à la succession d'héritiers d'une famille de visionnaires. « Lorsque je suis arrivé ici en bateau depuis mon Inde natale, dans les années 60, le désert était omniprésent. Il n'y avait pas un seul hôtel. Je travaillais dans un petit café pour un dirham par jour» se souvient Mohamed Ismaïl. « Désormais j'ai un bon poste. Je suis chauffeur pour VIP et je gagne bien ma vie » ajoute-t-il. Aujourd'hui, comme des milliers de ses compatriotes, il peine à distinguer les dunes de sable, recouvertes de buildings.
Pas un trimestre ne s'achève sans l'inauguration d'une nouvelle tour. Un chantier est à peine terminé qu'un autre commence. Le village d'antan s'est métamorphosé en une vertigineuse mégalopole. Et la frénésie immobilière, version grand luxe, se lit partout le long de la Crique. Dans les baies vitrées de ces tours sans fin, se reflètent des centaines de boutres en bois, chargés de marchandises à destination de l'Iran, de Djibouti ou de la Somalie. Ici, un Emirati de Sharjah surveille sa cargaison. Des milliers de cartons de thé en provenance de Ceylan et des centaines de boîtes de verres en cristal made in France qui partiront le lendemain pour Bandar Abbas. Le voyage durera sept jours. Là, sur le boutre Eidemohma, c'est un businessman somalien qui collecte pneus made in China et sacs de pâtes made in Italia pour les revendre ensuite dans son pays d'origine. « Je loue le bateau et l'équipage à Osman, un armateur indien installé à Dubaï. Arrivé en Somalie, j'ai des acheteurs pour tous mes produits. Mon activité est très rentable. Je suis un homme riche » avoue l'homme d'affaires. Sur la Crique, les téléphones portables sonnent sans arrêt, les camions déchargent, les bateaux se bousculent pour remplir leurs immenses cales. On peut passer des heures à observer ce spectacle, à échanger des nouvelles du monde entier, tant la diversité des populations est étonnante. C'est sur la Crique que l'on saisit le mieux la particularité de Dubaï. Son cosmopolitisme. 80 % de sa population est d'origine étrangère ! Sikhs, hindous, musulmans ou chrétiens cohabitent sur ces jetées à la longueur infinie, formant presque un quartier à part dans la ville. Un monde flottant. Ici, pas de place pour les faibles tonnages. On ne prend pas le large sans
garantie de s'assurer le maximum de revenus. « Tant que nous n'accumulons pas 800 tonnes de charge, nous restons à quai » explique un capitaine djiboutien. En attendant d'autres colis, l'équipage vit sur le bateau. Les temps morts sont consacrés à la sieste, au thé et aux parties de cartes. Et pendant qu'un Pakistanais accomplit sa prière près d'une pyramide de pièces détachées, un marchand ambulant passe de pont en pont pour proposer aux navigateurs des cigarettes bon marché ou des vêtements d'occasion. A Dubaï, rien ne se perd, tout se réexporte. Dirigeants et commerçants n'ont pas attendu les pétrodollars pour s'enrichir. Déjà sous le règne du libéral Maktum Bin Hasher (1896/1906) ils savent profiter des lois draconiennes sur les taxes douanières qui touchent leurs voisins iraniens, pour faire de Dubaï un port spécialisé dans le ré-acheminement des marchandises. Un juteux marché qui démarre dès 1904 et fait de l'émirat une cité prospère. Ainsi, les ports dominants de la côte perse, privés du commerce de transit, périclitent. Et les denrées partant de l'Inde pour les Emirats ou l'Iran, passeront toutes par Dubaï, où le laxisme fiscal fait le bonheur des marchands. Le commerce est devenu religion d'Etat ! On croise encore sur la Crique, quelques pêcheurs de perles pakistanais. Hors saison, ils somnolent sur des navires en fibre de verre et passent le temps l'oreille collée sur des radios portatives. Pour eux, manquer la transmission d'un match de criquet serait un sacrilège ! Aujourd'hui l'activité de ces hommes est marginale. Et dans la pratique, elle n'a rien plus à voir avec celle que décrivait le grand reporter Albert Londres dans « Pêcheurs de perles ». A présent, les plongeurs n'ont plus besoin de pince-nez. Ni de se raser le crâne ou de souffrir le martyr. Bouteilles d'oxygène, palmes et combinaisons font la
perles de culture japonaises sur le marché. L'émirat surmontera péniblement les conséquences de cette sévère concurrence. Son port naturel, l'audace de ses commerçants, et une fiscalité favorable l'ont déjà aidé à connaître une première période de développement rapide. La découverte du pétrole dans la région, en 1969, transformera son destin. Désormais, sous le règne éclairé de Cheikh Rashid Bin Said, Dubaï entre sur la scène internationale.
Eloge de la démesure « New-York, Rome et Athènes ! Où tombions nous ? ». Dans les années 30, Albert Londres, qui fait une escale à Dubaï avant de rejoindre l'île de Bahreïn, s'étonne déjà de la configuration de la ville. A son époque, Dubaï et l'ensemble des Emirats composent les Etats de la Trève, placés sous la « protection » des Britanniques. Il faudra attendre 1971 pour voir naître la fédération des Emirats Arabes Unis. Sept décennies après sa visite, le journaliste aurait toutes les raisons de comparer l'autoroute à huit voies, la Cheikh Zayed Road dotée de son impressionnante collection de gratte-ciel, au quartier de Manhattan à New York. Les noms des buildings sont d'ailleurs évocateurs : World Trade Center, Twins Towers... Avec l'hôtel Fairmont et les deux tours jumelles de la compagnie aérienne Emirates, la ville affiche sans complexe son goût immodéré pour les verticales constructions de verre. Comme la Grande Pomme, Dubaï est « une ville qui se tient debout ». Et un énorme centre d'affaires.
Pour loger les businessmen attirés par l'eldorado dubaïote, on construit de somptueux refuges. Parmi les plus insolites, le Burj el Arab arbore une forme avant-gardiste. Celle d'une grande voile blanche émergeant des flots qui se dote d'un habit de lumière à la nuit tombée. Une véritable ?uvre d'art que cet hôtel sept étoiles. Unique au monde ! Son logo, décliné sur les plaques d'immatriculation des voitures est presque devenu l'emblème de l'émirat, qui, pour son entrée dans le nouveau siècle, ne lésine pas sur les moyens. Il annonce en fanfare quelques projets extraordinaires. Le plus incroyable, Palm Islands, est déjà surnommé huitième merveille du monde. Il s'agit d'étendre les façades maritimes de l'émirat par la création de deux îles artificielles en forme de palmiers. Une expérience visuelle exceptionnelle d'après les promoteurs qui aiment à rappeler que ces îles seront visibles depuis la lune. La première d'entre elles, Palm Jumeirah, achevée en 2005, abrite un nouveau quartier résidentiel haut de gamme. David Beckam et Michael Owen se sont déjà portés acquéreurs. Une nouvelle relayée en grandes pompes par la presse locale. Histoire d'embellir la vitrine et de susciter chez d'autres membres de la jet set internationale des envies de résidence secondaire. L'idée de ce chantier estimé à plus de trois billions de dollars, revient à Cheikh Mohammed bin Rashid al Maktum, l'Emir de Dubaï depuis 1990. Prudent, ce dirigeant ne met pas tous ses dirhams dans le même panier. Pas question de compter sur les revenus pétroliers pour assurer l'avenir ! Afin de gagner le prochain pari, faire de Dubaï la destination phare du XXIe siècle, la famille Maktum ne se contente pas d'accompagner de ses v?ux et de ses largesses la construction de complexes hôteliers. Elle investit aussi sur des marchés
porteurs. Comme celui des télécommunications, pour lequel ont notamment été construits Media City et Internet City. Et elle planche encore sur de nouveaux projets pharaoniques qui maintiendront dans le futur, le prestige de la cité. La ville va se doter sur la Cheikh Zayed Road, de la plus haute tour du monde, Burj Dubaï. Un pied de nez aux Tours Petronas de Kuala Lumpur en Malaisie, qui s'élèvent déjà à 452 mètres ! La demi-mesure n'est pas de mise. On est riche, on le montre et surtout, on ne s'embarrasse pas d'une modestie inutile. Issa, un Dubaïote responsable du marché aux poissons où travaille une centaine de Pakistanais, ne se fait pas prier pour être photographié devant sa Cadillac noire. Il se pavane fièrement. « J'en ai six autres comme celle-ci, de couleurs différentes. Selon l'humeur du jour, je conduis, la rouge, la jaune, la blanche...». Une voiture différente pour chaque jour de la semaine ! La pêche rapporte son pesant d'or. Multiples milliardaires, folle exubérance, indécentes paillettes. Soit ! Mais Dubaï ne se résume pas à ces poncifs.
Une identité à préserver Dans les quartiers populaires, le promeneur oublie facilement la success story de Dubaï. Emporté par les senteurs d'épices qui hantent le souk de Deira où, pistaches, encens et cannelle débordent de grands sacs en toile de jute, laissés devant les échoppes pour stimuler les papilles des visiteurs. Les minuscules boutiques de tabac, les ateliers de bric à brac rappellent parfois les rues du Caire ou d'Istanbul. Les vendeurs sont Iraniens, Indiens, Pakistanais, Sénégalais... A quelques rues d'ici, dans le bloc 103 du quartier Sikkat, bouchers, coiffeurs et
épiciers originaires du Bangladesh ont élu domicile. Leurs voisins afghans sont spécialisés dans la vente de tissus et le travail de boulange. Si le monde entier se retrouve à Dubaï, chacun sait rester à sa place. En 1920, une politique d'immigration incite de nombreux commerçants étrangers à s'installer définitivement dans l'émirat alors peu peuplé. Le résultat ne se fait pas attendre. Aujourd'hui, on dénombre quatre-vingt-treize nationalités à Dubaï. Depuis les années 70, la population étrangère a largement dépassé celle des autochtones. Sur les abras, petits taxis d'eau en bois qui assurent la traversée entre les deux rives de la ville, la conversation s'engage plus facilement avec les travailleurs immigrés qu'avec les Emiratis. Ceux-ci préfèrent fréquenter leurs pairs. Une manière de se protéger. Pour enrayer les unions mixtes qui, à terme pourraient menacer les us et coutumes de la population locale, l'Etat met en place des aides pour favoriser le mariage entre locaux. Un homme qui épouse une femme émiratie plutôt qu'une étrangère, se verra offrir un terrain, une prime importante et un prêt à taux 0%. C'est à ce prix que les Dubaïotes et l'ensemble des Emirats espèrent préserver leur identité. Peu connu de la clientèle touristique, à qui l'on a d'abord vanté la trilogie, « shopping, mer et désert », l'art de vivre, version dubaïote, existe néanmoins. Contre toute attente, la population n'a pas sacrifié au business, ses origines bédouines et entend perpétuer les traditions des ancêtres. Notamment celle de la chasse. Hamad Ghanem Shaheen part plusieurs fois dans l'année à la recherche de gibier en compagnie de ses rapaces et de ses salukis (une espèce de lévrier du désert). Aux Emirats, en Afghanistan ou en Mauritanie. Equipé de son dernier gadget,
Encadré : Les tours à vents un ordinateur intégré dans un téléphone portable, cet éleveur de faucons adore se délasser dans l'un des nombreux bars du One & Only Royal Mirage. Une oasis cinq étoiles bâtie dans un style arabe. « Je préfère ce lieu aux hôtels de verre. Ici, on se sent à la maison » explique Hamad, sous le regard attentif de son faucon, sagement vissé sur un poignet. Vendus à des tarifs exorbitants, les faucons, comme les chameaux, sont bichonnés par leurs propriétaires. Pour eux, on a construit à Dubaï, des hôpitaux spécialisés, dans lesquels chaque patient est considéré comme un VIA (very important animal). La crème de la médecine vétérinaire, composée de Pakistanais, d'Iakiens et d'Allemands se retrouve dans ces cliniques de luxe pour assurer des soins variés. Radiologie, pédicure ou implant de plumes. A chacun sa spécialité. Pour faire connaître à un public de plus en plus large, le passé et les spécificités des Dubaïotes, les autorités touristiques investissent dans la réhabilitation des quartiers historiques. En découvrant de vieilles maisons typiques, un village de pêcheurs de perles reconstitué ou un campement de bédouins, on peut se faire une idée, quoique superficielle, des conditions de vie difficiles des arrières grands parents de la jeunesse dorée actuelle. Grâce à ces initiatives, Dubaï s'offre un zeste d'authenticité dans un univers souvent qualifié de « surfait » par le visiteur pressé, qui se demande si à vouloir sans arrêt gratter le ciel en construisant des tours de Babel, l'émirat ne risque pas un sort identique à la cité biblique... Mais pour apprivoiser le futur, force est de constater que Dubaï n'a pas de leçons à recevoir...
Originaires de Bastak, district de la région iranienne du Lar, des marchands persans migrent à Dubaï, à l'est du Fort Al Fahidi, dans un quartier qui sera plus tard baptisé Bastakiya. Ils s'installent dans les années 20 avec des compatriotes maçons qui se chargent de bâtir sur leur nouveau lieu de résidence des demeures confortables, adaptées aux grandes chaleurs grâce à l'une de leurs inventions : la tour à vent. Les familles dubaïotes autrefois logées dans des maisons en toit de palmes, adoptent vite l'ingénieux système de ventilation persan. Réalisé en argile, de forme carrée, composé de quatre pans de murs concaves et élevé à quinze mètres du sol sur des maisons à étages, l'ancêtre du climatiseur ou barajeel capte le vent et l'achemine vers les pièces d'habitation inférieures. Les familles profitent ainsi d'un peu de fraîcheur. Quoique délaissées durant la période de développement urbain de l'émirat, ces tours ont de nouveau le vent en poupe. En plus de faire l'objet de restaurations attentives, elles inspirent parfois les architectes de la Cheikh Zayed Road. Ainsi, l'un des derniers né des hôtels cinq étoiles, le building de verre conçu pour abriter l'hôtel Fairmont, épouse-t-il la forme du barajeel. Ce clin d'?il artistique réveille le patriotisme des locaux qui chérissent ce complexe hôtelier. Si sa fonction apparaît caduque dans cette zone surclimatisée, la tour à vent fait partie du patrimoine local et honore la mémoire des anciens.
LĂŠgendes. 1646-01: Dubai Festival. Under the Marylin's skirt, Emirats's inhabitants, coming for the Dubai Shopping Festival have a recreation after having spent time in shopping centers to dig out good deals. They wear subtle details on their clothes to recognize easily their Emirate. 1646-02: Funfair. During the yearly Shopping Festival, families go everywhere. Despite wearing " abaya ", women have fun with attractions. The female condition evolves step by step inside Emirates themselves. Even the patriarchal tradition remains the law in the Emirates, the huge economic growth encourage women to have more autonomy and emancipation in the world of work. Officially women hold 40% of jobs in education, 35% in health, 20% in social issues and 28% as civil servants in the State Ministeries. 1646-03: Hawk breeder. Against all expectations, population has not neglected her Bedouin origins for the modern business, and still perpetuates ancestral traditions. Hamad Ghanem Shaheen has chosen to devote his life to " salukis " and hawks farming. Nevertheless time is far when men crossed desert to provide for their family. Nowadays hunting is a noble and onerous art. 1646-04: Funfair. For the youth, the yearly Shopping Festival is the best way to make encounters' Cohabitation is banned in the Emirates. To live together, you have to be married. Unlike other Arabic countries, Emirates's woman is not subjected to hard pressure. She can manage her own shop for herself, drive a car.
1646-05:Twins Towers mosque. In the shopping center of the Twins Towers ther is one room dedicated to the cult. Men can buy goods and come to pray at the meantime. 1646-06: Fairmont Hotel.Atrium. Located close to the World Trade Center, Fairmont Hotel likes contrasts. Its sharp is like a traditional wind tower, and its inner fitting is very modern. Its large atrium makes different plays of light and the restaurant " Cascades " (" Waterfall ") offers a Mediterranean cook. 1646-07: Burj Al Arab Hotel. It is the only one hotel with 7 stars. It became the icon of the Emirates. Inspired by the sail of dhows, arabic boats, its sharpe attracts a lot of curious people of the world. Built in 1994 and high of 321 meters, it was an architectural challenge at that time. 1646-08: The cove. On the dhows Eidemohma, a Somalian businessman collects oil cans, tyres made in China and bags full of pastas made in Italy to sell them in Somalia. He rents a boat and its crew to Osman, an Indian shipowner based in Dubai. When he arrives in Somalia, he finds quickly buyers for his goods. It's a very profitable business. 1646-09: Change of boat in the cove. A shipowner from Sharjah has a look after the load : thousands packs of tea coming from Ceylon and hundreds crystal boxes made in France. Goods are loaded on dhows that leave the day after for Bandar Abbas, Iran. This travel takes 7 days. 1646-10: Hospital for hawks. Sold at exorbitant prices, hawks are pampered by their owners. A special hospital has been built in Dubai for hawks, in which each "
patient " is considered as a V.I.A (Very Important Animal). It is the must of the veterinary medicine made with Pakistanis, Iraqis and Germans. Radiology, chiropodist (=podiatrist) or feather implant. Each has his own speciality. 1646-11: Hospital for hawks. There are three new hospitals for hawks in the Emirates. The first one was created in Dubai, twenty years ago. The others are based in Abu Dhabi and in Al Ain. Here, around 3000 birds of prey are treated. One of the most difficult surgery is implant of leathers. There are only very few doctors who know how to implant leathers. Dr Majeed, from Pakistan, is the only one to know make implant in Dubai. 1646-12: Hospital for camels. A Pakistani veterinary is making a radiography on one camel. The owners of this camel are very rich, worried about the competitiveness of their animals for the famous races organized in the Emirates. 1646-13: Koranic school. The Al Ahmadiya school was initiated by Sheik Ahmed Bin Dalmouk in 1912 financially supported by merchants of pearls. This school had a special place into the story of education in the Emirates and above all in Dubai. The present elite has been educated in this school. Teachers came from Iraq, Qatar or Egypt and teached koran, islamic precedent and " hadiths " for few rupees per month. In 1956, they included english lessons, sociology, sciences. In 1958, a school for girls has been opened. Al Ahmadiya school is a museum now. Classrooms are more modern. There is 88 primary schools in Dubai. Native children do not go in the same school than the migrant children. 1646-14: Abras station.Water taxis.
" Abras ", little water taxis carry out the crossing between the two sides of the city, for barely 50 " fils ". On these boats, conversation comes easier with migrants than with natives, who prefer to associate with their peers. Certainly a way to protect themselvesÉ To stop mixed marriages, that could pose a threat to the ways and customs of the country, the State gives assistance to encourage local weddings. A man getting married with an woman from Emirates will receive a plot of land, and a bonus and a loan at 0%. 1646-15: Abras station.Water taxis. " Abras ", little water taxis carry out the crossing between the two sides of the city, for barely 50 " fils ". 1646-16: Bangladeshi area. The block 103 in the Sikkat district, butchers, hairdressers and grocers native from Bangladesh have taken residence. If people from the world meet eachother in Dubai, they perfectly know to stay at their place. In 1920, an immigration politics has encouraged people to settle for good in the Emirates then not much populated. The result came quickly. Today there are 93 different nationalities in Dubai. Since 1970, foreigners are more numerous (80% of the population) than natives. 1646-17: Bangladeshi butchery. The block 103 in the Sikkat district, butchers, hairdressers and grocers native from Bangladesh have taken residence. If people from the world meet eachother in Dubai, they perfectly know to stay at their place. In 1920, an immigration politics has encouraged people to settle for good in the Emirates then not much populated. The result came quickly. Today there are 93 different nationalities in Dubai. Since 1970, foreigners are more numerous (80% of the population) than natives.
1646-24: Burj Al Arab hotel.Atrium. Dizzy atrium, the largest of the world, at 180 meters high. 1646-18: Mall Wafi. The typical shop of Dubai is large shopping arcades super-air-conditioned. Wafi is famous for its top of the range of boutiques and for its architecture inspired by Antic Egypt. Women from Emirates are very pretty and love to wear under their abaya smart clothes. 1646-19: Mall Wafi. Purchases are made at the end of the afternoon. From 06 : 00 pm, shopping arcades of Dubai attract the crowds. In this way big shopping centers supplant souks, with a larger choice and the omnipresent clim. 1646-20: Shopping center Wafi. Purchases are made at the end of the afternoon. From 06 : 00 pm, shopping arcades of Dubai attract the crowds. In this way big shopping centers supplant souks, with a larger choice and the omnipresent clim. 1646-21: Mall City Centre. Many shopping centers in Dubai are like paradise for worldwide marketing managers. Each new article are tested, before being sell in Europe. Huge shopping centers attract crowds and potential clients who would maybe adopt the perfume of Jennifer Lopez. 1646-22: Emirates tower. The Twins tower of the Emirates aircraft company have been built in 2000 among the other skyscrappers on Sheik Zayed Road. 1646-23: The Tower. Achieved in April 2002, the Tower is on the Sheik Zayed highway. It is 243 meters high, with 54 levels and 372 flats.
1646-25: Burj Al Arab. Spa. The Assawan spa, located at the 18th level, is somptuous. It is named like this thanks to the stone known for its purity and its thErapeutic properties. Its location allows visitor to have a spectacular view. 1646-26: Burj Al Arab hotel. Coming in the Burj Al Arab became an essential stopover for many tourists. Hostesses welcome with rose's water. If you are not a resident of the hotel, you have to pay the entrance to visit. 1646-27: Al Mahara restaurant. Located in the Burj Al Arab Hotel, this restaurant is famous for its heavenly decoration, its huge aquariums gathering rare species. Menu offers seafood. Al Mahara is a must among restaurants in Dubai. 1646-28: Heritage village. To extend the knowledge of Dubai to foreigners, the State invests in the restoration of old and historic districts. They discover old and typical houses, they reconstituted a village of fishermen of pearls, and also a Bedouins's camp. Then it allows to have an idea of the hard conditions of life of grandparents of the present gilded youth. 1646-29: Heritage village. To extend the knowledge of Dubai to foreigners, the State invests in the restoration of old and historic districts. They discover old and typical houses, they reconstituted a village of fishermen of pearls, and also a Bedouins's camp. Then it allows to have an idea of the hard conditions of life of grandparents of the present gilded youth.
1646-30: Heritage village.Bedouin aircraft. Despite its futuristic aspect, Dubai preserves traditions and art of living prior the discovery of oil. (Wearing traditional suit, falconry, old houses, forts, villages in oasis, dhows). The capitale of excesses has opened a " Heritage Village " to recall their first history to new generations, because in less 50 years the difference between the life of nomadic Bedouins and the present businessmen is so immense. 1646-31:Cove. Dubai is crossed by Al Khor, a watercourse formed by the Gulf's cove. In The North-East, there is Deira, the modern downtown with its futuristic skyscrappers. Dubai is in the South-West. Each year there is the Shopping Festival with the big wheel made by Polish. Taxi-boats cross the river at any time, despite there is several bridges between both of Al Khor river sides. 1646-32: Palm islands layout. Financially supported by the Governement, local and international banks, the Palm Islands Project (creation of two man-made islands in the palm shape) is presented to many investors, already captivated. Nicknamed " The eighth wonder of the world ", Palm Islands will allow to add 120 kilometers sea front to the Emirates. As for as property developpers it would be an incredible visual experience since both of islands should be visible from the moon. 1646-33: World Trade Centre. The Fairmont Hotel opposite, we can look at the first building of Dubai : the World Trade Center, built in 1973. It marks the entrance of Dubai on the international scene. Few years before, in 1969, the first oil deposit was discovered. 1646-34: Fairmont Hotel. Close to the World Trade Center, in the business area
of Dubai, the Fairmont Hotel likes contrasts. Its outside shape looks like a wind tower, its interior fitting is very modern. Opened in 2002, this hotel is very appreciated by local customers. 1646-35: .Children city. It is the first one kind of complex in the Gulf : a space of 77.000 m2 given to the children from 2 to 15 years old. Achieved in 2002, the city of children is located in the middle of Creek Park and expects 2 millions visitors a year. Children come here to familiarize with sciences according to a ludic and interactive way. It is a big success. 1646-36: Loading in the cove. Every day, tonnes of goods are loaded on dhows, which will cast off towards Iran, Djibouti, SomaliaÉ. In front of the modern buildings (here the Twins Towers), tractor-elevators rent to foreign companies, and driven by immigrant workers. 1646-37: Beach wand works. Tourists come in Dubai for its dunes and its beaches, that is why the government wants to take care of these places. When the wind is strong, the sea overflows beyond the beaches. Here, beach is developped with a great stock of australian bags full of sand to protect the soil against high tide. Workers are Pakistanis or Egyptians. 1646-38: Shipyard of Jeddaf. At the end of the cove, a huge shipyard is devoted to the restoration of dhows. Many boats are still made of wood, even fibreglass replaces old tradition. 1646-39: Emirates women. During the yearly Shopping Festival, families go everywhere. Despite wearing " abaya ", women have fun with attractions. The female condition evolves step by step
walks in family, with its big parks and many cafes.
inside Emirates themselves. Even the patriarchal tradition remains the law in the Emirates, the huge economic growth encourage women to have more autonomy and emancipation in the world of work. Officially women hold 40% of jobs in education, 35% in health, 20% in social issues and 28% as civil servants in the State Ministeries. 1646-40: Deira souk. Tiny tobacco shops, bric-Ă -brac workshops of the Deira district, look like typical street of old Cairo or Istanbul. Shopkeepers come from everywhere : they are Iranians, Pakistanis, Senegaleses... 1646-41: Afghan shopkeeper. There is many Afghans in Dubai. Most of them are baker and fabric shopkeepers. 1646-42: Duty free at the airport. The Duty free of the huge airport is opened 24h/24, offering many goods at a low price. 1646-43: Gold souk. The gold souk is the most important in the Middle East, located in Deira gathers hundreds of stalls. Many jewellers are Indians. Dubai is the crossroads for gold and is the transit zone for 1/5th of the world gold. 1646-44: Gold souk. The gold souk is the most important in the Middle East, located in Deira gathers hundreds of stalls. Many jewellers are Indians. Dubai is the crossroads for gold and is the transit zone for 1/5th of the world gold. 1646-45: Cove. Abras stations (water taxis) stay along the Al Khor watercourse side. The cove is known for its pleasant
1646-46: .The Friday prayer. Gathering for the Friday prayer on Naif Road. This district devoted to trade gathers many different foreign communities, which do not miss the paryer time. The last to arrive have no place inside the mosque and put their carpet in the street. Even when it is raining. During 30 minutes, all traffic is blocked and the world stops during the sermon. 1646-47: Race course for camels. Camels's training on the race course. It is an other aspect of the local culture. Inhabitants of Emirats do not use camels to travel anymore, but camels became the jewel of their culture to make races's champion and win big gambling gains. Jockeys are often Bangladeshi appreciated for their featherweight. Their working conditions remain taboo in Dubai. 1646-48: Race course for camels. Camels's training on the race course. It is an other aspect of the local culture. Inhabitants of Emirates do not use camels to travel anymore, but camels became the jewel of their culture to make races's champion and win big gambling gains. Jockeys are often Bangladeshi appreciated for their featherweight. Their working conditions remain taboo in Dubai. 1646-49: Fishmarket. The fishmarket employs Pakistani only. Opened at 6 :00 am, customers come to buy sharks, crabs or " hamour ", a typical fish of this region. The market closes at 01:00 pm for the prayer, it opens again at the end of the afternoon, avoiding to display goods under the blazing sun. 1646-50: Heritage House. This house was
built in 1890 and converted into a museum in 2000 by the municipality of Dubai. It was the house of a famous merchant of pearls, Sheik Ahmed Bin Dalmouk, in 1910. It is nowadays one of scarce testimony of the traditional way of building. The inner courtyard and wind towers imported by Persian bricklayers settled in the Emirates in the 1920's. 1646-51: Koranic school Al Ahmadiya. Detail of architecture of the koranic school Al Ahmediya. This school has been created by Sheik Ahmed Bin Dalmouk in 1912, supported by merchants of pearls. The present elite is educated here. 1646-52: Ski desert. During weekends, inhabitants of Emirates flee the megalopolis for surfing on sand dunes, a fashionable sport, or to practise falconry. 1646-53: .The Gold centre. The gold centre gathers hundreds of stalls were jewels and gold ingots are sold. 1/5th of the world gold pass through Dubai. 1646-54: Hawk breeder. Against all expectations, population has not neglected her Bedouin origins for the modern business, and still perpetuates ancestral traditions. Hamad Ghanem Shaheen has chosen to devote his life to " salukis " and hawks farming. Nevertheless time is far when men crossed desert to provide for their family. Nowadays hunting is a noble and onerous art. 1646-55: Traditional architecture of the Emirate. Wind tower. 1646-56: Burj Al Arab Hotel. It is the only one hotel with 7 stars. It became the icon of the Emirates. Inspired by the sail of dhows, arabic boats, its sharpe attracts a lot of curious people of the world. Built in
1994 and high of 321 meters, it was an architectural challenge at that time.