Les Hammams : de la magie à l'oubli by lightmediation

Si en Europe, le bain de vapeur est perçu comme une pratique exotique, il représente pour une majorité de musulmans, bien plus qu'un lieu de détente. Ses vertus purificatrices, sociales et religieuses ont attiré de nombreux adeptes. Pourtant, il est désormais en déclin dans les médinas. Résistant mal au monde moderne et à son cortège de métamorphoses. Délaissé, il apparaît comme un monument hérité des anciens et dénué de toutes fonctions. Et avec lui, c'est tout un art de vivre qui est menacé... Pascal Meunier a ramené de ses nombreux voyages en Syrie, Turquie, Yemen, Egypte, Maroc, Algérie, Tunisie, Liban,Libye, Iran, Emirats, un témoignage unique sur ces lieux magiques.

Les Hammams : de la magie à l'oubli... Photos ©Pascal Meunier/Lightmediation Texte ®Maud Tyckaert Contact - Thierry Tinacci Agence Lightmediation +33 (0)6 61 80 57 21 thierry@lightmediation.com

1448-05: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Tambali- Hammam is also a place of meditation where people can recharge their batteries before taking an important decision. Fewer people are going to hammams, and allows amateurs having quiet and solitude for a while.

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-01: Syria. Aleppo. Hammam Yalbouga Al Nasri- This Mameluke hammam has been deserted for a long time to house a factory making felt-tip pen. The Syrian Minister of Turism

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-02: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Margoush -Under the Mameluke dynasty, it was told that 365 hammams were opened in Cairo. One for each day of the year. Nowadays, there are

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-03: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlita - Hammam is also a place for meditation where people come to recharge their batteries and think before taking an important decision. In

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-04: Yemen. Sanaa. Hammam As Shukr -Yemeni hammams are small and favour overcrowding. The day of Great Prayer, many men come and help each other for the different

1448-16: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam El Arba - For "Okal", the owner of the bath El Arba, it is not easy to attract new customers. So, imagination is of the essence... With a few metal bars, a chain, a bit of rubber, he has constructed a bicycle, a running carpet... A real sports room.

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-05: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Tambali- Hammam is also a place of meditation where people can recharge their batteries before taking an important decision.

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-06: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - In this hammam, they prefer to use " turba " for cleaning body than vegetable fiber often used in the past, but now considered as a

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-07:Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - In this hammam, they prefer to use " turba " for cleaning body than vegetable fiber often used in the past, but now considered as a

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-08: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - Massage is made with a sense of modesty. Towel doesn't leave the client. " Tellaks ", turkish masseurs, make to play body's joints.

1448-43: Syria. Hama. Hammam Osmaniye - A few days before a wedding, friends of the future groom reserve the baths for a stag party: a ritual still practiced in Syria, with dancing and bawdy songs.

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-09: Libya. Tripoli. Hammam Helga-It remains only few traditional hammams in Tripoli. Hammam Helga is located in the souk of the medina and popular. Some of clients laze, while

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-10: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - The massage's art needs a great dexterity and a precise body language. The least of false move would cause scandal. Despite

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-11: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - After lazing on a hot slab, the client lets himself go in the tellakﾃ不 hands, who spreads on the body a lather of perfumed soap.

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-12: Syria. Damascus. Hammam Al Jadid - In Damascus, people come to hammams with their close parents or fiends. Alone, it is the opportunity to make unexpected encounters.

1448-11: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - After lazing on a hot slab, the client lets himself go in the tellakﾃ不 hands, who spreads on the body a lather of perfumed soap. Generally, a hammam counts around 80 employees, but many of them have reduced their workforce.

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-13: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam El Arba - This hammam has been opened for 5 centuries. On Wednesdays, it is mainly restricted to women, who come here to get ready for their wedding,

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-14: Turkey. Bursa. Hammam Yenikaplica - This hammam is very popular and reputable for having cure the gout's crisis of Sultan Suleiman, ak the Splendid. " Kaplicas " differ from

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-15: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - The " tellak " put soap into a bag of wet cotton, called " turba ". He blows strongly in this lather balloon before wringing forcefully on his

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-16: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam El Arba - For "Okal", the owner of the bath El Arba, it is not easy to attract new customers. So, imagination is of the essence... With a few metal bars, a

1448-06: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - In this hammam, they prefer to use " turba " for cleaning body than vegetable fiber often used in the past, but now considered as a bacteria trap. It is one of the only change made in this hammam during the 20th century. These sessions are sometimes recreations for masseurs who play to bury their collusive clients under a snow of soap.

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-17: Iran. Kerman. Hammam Ganj Ali Khan - These baths from the Safavid era were built in 1631 by the governor of the province of Kerman, Ganj Ali Khan. Turned into an

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-18: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlita- After lazing on a hot slab, the client lets himself go in the tellak's hands, who spreads on the body a lather of perfumed soap.

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-19: Morocco. Fez. Hammam Kharachfiyine - Because not all the households in the medina have bathrooms, the baths in Morocco are still well frequented. Each

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-20: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Kadirga - The customers linger in the reception room. Like an isolation tank for some, a boudoir for others, it provides " time to spare", favoring

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-21: Syria. Aleppo. Hammam Al Nahassin - The reception hall is a space of liberty. Everybody is attending to his business. For some of them it is the TV serial time, for others it is

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-22: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Margoush - In the alcoves of the main room, temperature can reach 40째 Celsius. Clients become apathetic and get relax. There is a natural lighting

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-23: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Tambali - Around the main room of the baths, four small alcoves, maghtas, give out hot steam. A pool lets the rare customer immerse himself in the

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-24: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Sultan Qalaoun- Exclusively reserved to men, hammam Sultan is one of the oldest bath of the city. Its customers are mainly impoverished people who

1448-03: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlita - Hammam is also a place for meditation where people come to recharge their batteries and think before taking an important decision. In Istanbul, hammams are less in jeopardy than in other places around the arabic-muslim world, thanks to their new direction based on tourism of great luxury.

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-25: Syria. Damascus. Hammam El Mokhadem - Big bowls are in the tepid and hot rooms distributing either hot or cold water. Customers follow purificatory gestures to splash

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-26: Turkey. Bursa. Hammam Yenikaplica -This hammam is very popular and reputable for having cure the goutﾃ不 crisis of Sultan Suleiman, ak the Splendid. " Kaplicas " differ

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-27: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - Located downtown, hammam Cemberlitas is one of the most popular of the city. Plans would have been drawn by Sinan, the architecte

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-28: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas- Some of hammams have two twin structures. One is dedicated to women, the other one is for men. This partition appeared with

1448-04: Yemen. Sanaa. Hammam As Shukr -Yemeni hammams are small and favour overcrowding. The day of Great Prayer, many men come and help each other for the different stages of bath ritual. There is about a dozen of baths in SanaaĂ&#x2030; many houses have no bathroom.

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-30: United Arab Emirates. Dubai. Hammam Royal - The 5 stars hotel " One and Only Royal Mirage " of Dubai, decided to build the first traditional hammam in the Gulf in December

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-32: Tunisia. Tunis. Hammam Kachachine -One of the most famous hammam of Tunis. Exclusively reserved to men. This day, regular customers will meet holy men reciting

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-34: Iran. Kerman. Hammam Ibrahim Khan -One of the public baths still in service in Iran. Built in the 19th century, these baths have kept their exceptional mosaics, representing

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-36: Syria. Aleppo. Hammam Al Nahassin - These twin brothers are manager of hammam Al Nahassin since 20 years. The hammam is opened from 5 :00 am to 1 :00 pm. / /

1448-17: Iran. Kerman. Hammam Ganj Ali Khan - These baths from the Safavid era were built in 1631 by the governor of the province of Kerman, Ganj Ali Khan. Turned into an ethnological museum, the baths are much visited by the Iranians, coming to learn about the bathing ritual.

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-38: Syria. Damascus. Hammam Al Salsila - Hookah, or waterpipes, tea or sodas are served during chattering after the bath. Sometimes discussions continue until dawn. / /

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-39: Yemen. Sanaa. Hammam As Shukr - Numbering 17 in the 80s, today there are only 12 baths in Sanaa. The Al Shoukr baths, situated in the heart of the old city, remains one of

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-41: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Tambali - Badly-maintened, hammam's walls are covered by saltpetre. Plumbing is often defective. Hygiene leaves to be desired. But for many

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-42: Syria. Hama. Hammam Osmaniye -A few days before a wedding, friends of the future groom reserve the baths for a stag party: a ritual still practiced in Syria, with dancing

1448-23: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Tambali - Around the main room of the baths, four small alcoves, maghtas, give out hot steam. A pool lets the rare customer immerse himself in the boiling water.

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-43: Syria. Hama. Hammam Osmaniye - A few days before a wedding, friends of the future groom reserve the baths for a stag party: a ritual still practiced in Syria, with dancing

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-46: Syria. Damascus. Hammam Nour Ed Din -After staying in the blaze, customers get normal temperature again in an other room. It is the favourite time for swimmers. These

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-47: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Bichr -Near Bab el Futuh in the Husseiniya street, Hammam Bichri survives thanks to its night customers. For few piastres, they can sleep safely

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-48: Tunisia. Tunis. Hammam Halfaouine - A movie has been shot in this hammam in 1990, directed by Farid Boughedir " Halfaouine, the child of terraces". It is a story about a

1448-57: Turkey. Bursa. Hammam Eskikaplica - This town located at 200 km far away from Istanbul is reputable since Ottomans for its curative water. Eskikaplica is an hydrotherapic establishment receiving wealthy families. Here, a man rents the hammam to teach his son swimming.

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-49: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas -During the slack periods, masseurs fold towels. There is different kind of towels for covering the parts of bodies : head, shoulders

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-50: Syria. Damascus. Hammam Izz Ed Din - The manager decides of the decoration according to the fashion of the moment. Here, probably one of the kitschest of Syria. A fountain

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-51: Syria. Damascus. Hammam Nour Ed Din -Built by Nour Ed Din in the 12th century, these baths were financed through the ransom of a Frankish king taken prisoner during the

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-52: Libya. Tripoli. Hammam Darghout - This customer contradicts the philosopher Seneca, who criticized steam baths, asserting that one sweated without exerting any effort.

1448-15: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - The " tellak " put soap into a bag of wet cotton, called " turba ". He blows strongly in this lather balloon before wringing forcefully on his " victimﾃ不 body ".

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-53: Turkey. Bursa. Hammam Yenikaplica -The waters of this kaplica are reputed for their therapeutic virtues. Maybe soon this old man will no longer need his crutches. / /

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-54: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Talat -Nasra, one of the last masseuses in Cairo. / /

The last Oriental Baths / 1448-55: Iran. Kerman. Hammam Ibrahim Khan - The city of Kerman still houses two active public baths. This one, built by Ibrahim Khan, governor of the province of Kerman from 1801 to

1448-60: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cagaloglu - Cupolas from outside. Hammam Cagaloglu.

1448-24: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Sultan Qalaoun- Exclusively reserved to men, hammam Sultan is one of the oldest bath of the city. Its customers are mainly impoverished people who wander from a place to an other place with their bundles, and have a wash here. Mirror is an essential accessory in all hammams of Cairo, that reflects sad and tired faces because of the hard daily life.

Les Hammams : de la magie à l'oubli... Le paradis sur terre Salam Ali Koum! Rusen, le maître des lieux accueille chaleureusement les hommes qui défilent dans son hammam en plein coeur d'Istanbul. Il y a foule dans la camekan1 salle d'accueil et de repos où se croisent candidats au bain et clients déjà comblés. Mehmet, masseur, distribue à ses hôtes une serviette qu'ils noueront autour de la taille, à la manière d'un pagne. Chaussés de sandales, les clients se faufilent alors dans un couloir labyrinthique qui traverse la salle froide. Ici, personne ne s'éternise. La chaleur dégagée par la pièce suivante aspire les hommes qui s'engouffrent dans l'antre tiède. Dans la pénombre, la vapeur brouille les corps. Des ombres déambulent nonchalamment ou s'échappent des maqsuras, petites alcôves réservées à la toilette intime. Dans l'étuve, sur la dalle de marbre - le « nombril » - les hommes, alanguis par la température infernale, attendent d'être ranimés. La respiration se fait lente et les corps perlent abondamment sous les 40 degrés de la pièce. On se sent plus proche du loukoum que de l'opulente « sultane » du bain Turc d'Ingres. A travers l'épais rideau de vapeur qui envahit toute la pièce, on devine maintenant l'ombre du tellak armé de son gant de crin magique, le kese. Avant d'en faire usage, il prépare la mousse de savon. Il frictionnera ensuite tous les membres endormis de cette neige parfumée. Un supplice. Mais c'est

Shéhérazade qui l'affirme dans les Mille et Une Nuits, « le hammam est la joie de la vie d'un homme, le paradis sur terre». La séance terminée, on savoure la sortie de la fournaise allongé sur une banquette, avec en bruit de fond, le murmure de la fontaine qui orne le centre de la pièce. Alors qu'en Turquie, chacun se retire dans une cellule individuelle pour se délasser, en Syrie, tout est aménagé pour partager ce moment de convivialité. On poursuit avec ses voisins une conversation entamée dans l'étuve en attendant que les serveurs proposent un thé à la menthe ou du café amer. La boisson ambrée réchauffe les corps emmitouflés dans des linges propres et secs. Les langues se dénouent. Les mains aussi. On négocie le mariage à venir, on évoque les potins du quartier, les récentes décisions politiques. Parfois jusqu'au petit matin. Le hammam est un espace de rencontres. On y croise aussi bien le dirigeant d'une entreprise que le cireur de chaussures du souk. Drapé dans un même uniforme, la futa, chacun se sent le semblable de son voisin. Certains choisissent la sieste, d'autres regardent la télévision en fumant le narghilé. Les plus pieux entendront le muezzin rappelant l'heure de la prière qu'ils accompliront sur place. Le hammam est encore pour de nombreux musulmans, l'antichambre de la mosquée. Comme le rappelle Rusen Baltaci, propriétaire du hammam Cemberlitas à Istanbul « Avant d'aller prier, je vais faire mes ablutions dans la salle chaude ». Chez les musulmans, la pureté du corps étant aussi importante que celle de l'âme, les recommandations sur la propreté abondent. Dans les hadiths2 du prophète, sont mentionnés explicitement les obligations du fidèle qui précèdent chaque prière. « La clef du paradis est la prière et la clef de la prière est la toilette ». C'est pour satisfaire au rituel des ablutions, que

se sont élevés dans chaque ville conquise au nom de l'islam, des bains à l'attention d'adeptes de plus en plus nombreux. En général près des lieux de culte. A mi chemin entre profane et sacré - on entre au hammam souillé, on en sort purifié - le bain public devient un organe essentiel de la médina, au même titre que la mosquée. 599 Médecin muet C'est la reconnaissance du hammam comme « toubib el abkem »3 qui permit aux femmes de se rendre au bain public, longtemps réservé à la seule gent masculine. En effet, dès le XIe siècle, les plus grands praticiens comme Avicenne4 ou Averroes s'accordent à suggérer sa fréquentation pour enrayer une grippe, soigner une lombalgie ou chasser un rhumatisme grâce à sa « chaude ambiance ». Les femmes s'y rendent dans un premier temps après un accouchement puis deviennent des clientes régulières. Des tranches horaires ou des jours de la semaine leur sont consacrés. Seule sortie autorisée, en dehors du souk ou de la mosquée, le hammam est vite assimilé au « café des femmes ». Un lieu permissif dans lequel le réprobateur regard masculin est banni.. Contrairement aux hommes, elles vont et viennent en tenues d'Eve. « C'est le lieu où l'on se réconcilie avec son corps. Ici, nous sommes nues, alors que le reste du temps nous sommes très habillées, nous les femmes orientales. Etre dénudée permet de se redécouvrir » confie Fatima, une quadragénaire, fidèle cliente d'un bain populaire de Tunis. Pour les mères, c'est l'endroit idéal pour choisir une future belle fille. N'est ce pas au hammam qu'on reconnaît la chauve de la chevelue ? comme le suggère un proverbe syrien. C'est encore aux mères d'accompagner le fils au hammam. Ce sont les seuls hommes autorisés à

pénétrer ce paradis des femmes, jusqu'au jour où la patronne fera remarquer que « l'eau est arrivée à la fontaine ». Une façon de dire que l'adolescent est devenu un homme et que, dorénavant, c'est avec son père qu'il devra se rendre au bain. Adulte, il n'oubliera jamais que c'est dans cet univers sensuel et voluptueux que s'éveillèrent ses sens. Malheur au nostalgique qui oserait un regard de trop à travers les occuli des coupoles. Elles sauraient régler avec fermeté son compte au voyeur ! Par sa capacité à rassembler les citadins qui partagent un moment de convivialité le hammam évolue vite en carrefour de la vie sociale. En caisse de résonance de la société, dans laquelle s'échangent des idées, s'appréhende la sensualité, se savoure une certaine liberté. Ses vertus, thérapeutiques, religieuses, et sociales, le rende si précieux qu'il représente un signe extérieur de richesse dans la cité musulmane. Au moyen-âge, les sultans se doivent, pour embellir leur ville et satisfaire leur peuple, de bâtir des bains publics. D'ailleurs, pour évaluer la richesse d'une cité, il suffisait de compter ses hammams. Des inventaires fantaisistes en annonçaient jusqu'à vingt mille dans la rayonnante Bagdad ! Le succès des hammams était tel que les recettes générées par leurs entrées permettaient de financer mosquées et écoles. Un temps aujourd'hui révolu...446

Ephémères vapeurs Malgré tous ses bienfaits, le bain public décline dans les médinas. Responsables : l'évolution des mentalités, la recherche du confort moderne, les guerres et le développement de l'islamisme radical... Lorsqu'un gouvernement fanatique

impose ses lois, librement interprétées du Coran, cela induit par exemple la fermeture de tous les hammams en Afghanistan. Les musulmans puristes, à l'instar d'Abdelwahab5, ont toujours interdit le bain public. Et les Talibans ont scrupuleusement appliqué ses règles. Ailleurs, la multiplication des salles d'eau dans les foyers, la hausse des prix des services (eau, mazout, électricité) ont ruiné bien des propriétaires qui ne sont plus en mesure d'entretenir leur établissement et de garantir un minimum d'hygiène. Le cas le plus probant est celui du Caire. Dans cette cité historique, les mamelouks auraient connu 365 hammams, un pour chaque jour de l'année. Aujourd'hui il n'en reste que huit en fonctionnement. En piteux état et qui font fuir les clients ! Contre quelques piastres, les bains du Caire servent aujourd'hui d'abri de fortune pour les plus démunis. Alors pour subsister, les propriétaires de hammams doivent être en mesure de mettre la main au portefeuille et d'offrir un lieu impeccable avec prestations à la hauteur. Et attirer ainsi une clientèle exigeante, plutôt aisée. Comme en Turquie et en Syrie où l'on a fait du hammam un atout touristique sans pour autant le dénaturer. Mais pour un hammam restauré à grands frais combien de condamnations sans appel ? Encadré Hammam, un loisir à la mode Paris transpire. Paris sue de plaisir. Tous les propriétaires de hammams vous le diront : de plus en plus d'adeptes franchissent le seuil de leur établissement. Et il ne s'agit plus seulement de clients d'origine orientale. Non, les nouveaux

habitués des bains de vapeurs sont européens. Alternative exotique de l'esthéticienne, le hammam est devenu la dernière pratique à la mode. Signe social d'un certain prestige, on vient s'y faire bichonner. Propice aux dernières confidences, le lieu est désormais prisé pour enterrer sa vie de jeune fille ou de garçon. Quant il n'est pas tout simplement devenu le rendez-vous branché pour se retrouver entre amis après une journée de boulot harassante. On est loin de l'authentique hammam traditionnel du monde arabo musulman, même si l'ambiance décorative y fait allusion. Sur de majestueuses dalles de marbre baignée par une lumière artificielle mais tamisée, cadres supérieurs, mannequins ou publicitaires s'octroient des prestations hauts de gamme. De la pose de faux ongles aux bains d'argile parfumés aux géraniums, les moindres caprices esthétiques sont satisfaits. A condition d'y mettre le prix, bien entendu. La pratique du hammam, version occidentale tient davantage du loisir onéreux que d'une pratique répondant à des codes sociaux, religieux et thérapeutiques. Paradoxe : alors que dans les pays arabo-musulman le bain de vapeur est plutôt sur le déclin, en Europe il a le vent en poupe. (voir encadré)

Notes : 1 Salle d'accueil ou vestibule en turc. 2 Ensemble des traditions relatives aux actes et aux paroles du prophète. 3 Médecin muet. On a d'ailleurs gardé dans le langage courant le mot toubib, émanation de l'arabe tebib. 4 Avicenne originaire d'Iran était un illustre médecin doublé d'un philosophe. Il est l'auteur du « Canon de la médecine ». Averroès, son cadet d'un siècle était originaire de Cordoue et compta parmi les

plus célèbres médecins et philosophes arabes. 5 Fondateur du wahhabisme (XVIIIe siècle), doctrine religieuse qui prône le retour à la pureté originelle d'un islam sévèrement codifié à partir d'une lecture littérale des textes coraniques.

Lﾃｩgendes.

Fewer people are going to hammams, and allows amateurs having quiet and solitude for a while.

1448-01: Syria. Aleppo. Hammam Yalbouga Al Nasri- This Mameluke hammam has been deserted for a long time to house a factory making felt-tip pen. The Syrian Minister of Turism decided in 1985 to reopen it as a hammam. It is considered today as the most luxuous of the country and it is the model of a successful restoration.

1448-02: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Margoush -Under the Mameluke dynasty, it was told that 365 hammams were opened in Cairo. One for each day of the year. Nowadays, there are barley 8 to survive. In the street of brassworkers, the Margoush hammam continues despite of its dilapidated state. People wash themselves without masseurs 1448-03: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlita - Hammam is also a place for meditation where people come to recharge their batteries and think before taking an important decision. In Istanbul, hammams are less in jeopardy than in other places around the arabic-muslim world, thanks to their new direction based on tourism of great luxury. 1448-04: Yemen. Sanaa. Hammam As Shukr -Yemeni hammams are small and favour overcrowding. The day of Great Prayer, many men come and help each other for the different stages of bath ritual. There is about a dozen of baths in Sanaa; many houses have no bathroom. 1448-05: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam TambaliHammam is also a place of meditation where people can recharge their batteries before taking an important decision.

1448-07:Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - In this hammam, they prefer to use " turba " for cleaning body than vegetable fiber often used in the past, but now considered as a bacteria trap. It is one of the only change made in this hammam during the 20th century. These sessions are sometimes recreations for masseurs who play to bury their collusive clients under a snow of soap. 1448-08: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - Massage is made with a sense of modesty. Towel doesn't leave the client. " Tellaks ", turkish masseurs, make to play body's joints. It is a torture for the flesh, but a miracle for the body. There are ancestral gestures. 1448-09: Libya. Tripoli. Hammam Helga-It remains only few traditional hammams in Tripoli. Hammam Helga is located in the souk of the medina and popular. Some of clients laze, while other test a stimulating massage. 1448-10: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - The massage's art needs a great dexterity and a precise body language. The least of false move would cause scandal. Despite certain indications

to the contrary, it is an art of delicacy, as it is mentionned in the origin of the arabic word massage, " mass ", meaning touching delicately.

imagination is of the essence... With a few metal bars, a chain, a bit of rubber, he has constructed a bicycle, a running carpet... A real sports room.

1448-12: Syria. Damascus. Hammam Al Jadid - In Damascus, people come to hammams with their close parents or fiends. Alone, it is the opportunity to make unexpected encounters. Division of political or religious opinions seem to dissolve in the tepid steam.

1448-18: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlita- After lazing on a hot slab, the client lets himself go in the tellak's hands, who spreads on the body a lather of perfumed soap. Generally, a hammam counts around 80 employees, but many of them have reduced their workforce.

1448-13: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam El Arba This hammam has been opened for 5 centuries. On Wednesdays, it is mainly restricted to women, who come here to get ready for their wedding, usually celebrated on Thursday. 1448-14: Turkey. Bursa. Hammam Yenikaplica - This hammam is very popular and reputable for having cure the gout's crisis of Sultan Suleiman, ak the Splendid. " Kaplicas " differ from the other hammams by a pool filled by thermal spring water, mostly dedicated for medical cares. 1448-15: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas - The " tellak " put soap into a bag of wet cotton, called " turba ". He blows strongly in this lather balloon before wringing forcefully on his " victim's body ". 1448-16: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam El Arba For "Okal", the owner of the bath El Arba, it is not easy to attract new customers. So,

1448-19: Morocco. Fez. Hammam Kharachfiyine - Because not all the households in the medina have bathrooms, the baths in Morocco are still well frequented. Each neighbourhood has its baths... Here, one of the oldest in the city of Fez. 1448-20: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Kadirga - The customers linger in the reception room. Like an isolation tank for some, a boudoir for others, it provides " time to spare", favoring introspection or encouraging conversation. 1448-21: Syria. Aleppo. Hammam Al Nahassin - The reception hall is a space of liberty. Everybody is attending to his business. For some of them it is the TV serial time, for others it is prayer time. It is told that hammams are anterooms of mosque, a space between secular and sacred.

1448-22: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Margoush - In the alcoves of the main room, temperature can reach 40째 Celsius. Clients become apathetic and get relax. There is a natural lighting from above. 1448-23: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Tambali - Around the main room of the baths, four small alcoves, maghtas, give out hot steam. A pool lets the rare customer immerse himself in the boiling water. 1448-24: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Sultan Qalaoun- Exclusively reserved to men, hammam Sultan is one of the oldest bath of the city. Its customers are mainly impoverished people who wander from a place to an other place with their bundles, and have a wash here. Mirror is an essential accessory in all hammams of Cairo, that reflects sad and tired faces because of the hard daily life. 1448-25: Syria. Damascus. Hammam El Mokhadem - Big bowls are in the tepid and hot rooms distributing either hot or cold water. Customers follow purificatory gestures to splash himself. In the Prophet's words, the left hand must be used to wash. 1448-26: Turkey. Bursa. Hammam Yenikaplica -This hammam is very popular and reputable for having cure the gout?s crisis of Sultan Suleiman, ak the Splendid. " Kaplicas " differ from the other hammams by a pool filled by thermal spring water, mostly dedicated for medical cares. 1448-27: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas Located downtown,

hammam Cemberlitas is one of the most popular of the city. Plans would have been drawn by Sinan, the architecte who was supposed to have built 32 baths. Customers laze on a large octogonal slab in the middle of the hot room. This kind of slab is typical of Ottoman architecture. 1448-28: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas- Some of hammams have two twin structures. One is dedicated to women, the other one is for men. This partition appeared with Ottomans. " Halvets " are laid out around a central slab allowing women to make their personal wash safe of looks. 1448-29: United Arab Emirates. Dubai. Hammam Royal - The 5 stars hotel " One and Only Royal Mirage " of Dubai, decided to build the first traditional hammam in the Gulf in December 2002. Starting the trend of hammam in a region that is not historically concerned by public bath. And it is a big success ! 1448-30: United Arab Emirates. Dubai. Hammam Royal - The 5 stars hotel " One and Only Royal Mirage " of Dubai, decided to build the first traditional hammam in the Gulf in December 2002. Starting the trend of hammam in a region that is not historically concerned by public bath. And it is a big success ! 1448-31: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Tambali -" Hammamjis " have not enough money to look after their establishment. For example, damaged hangers are not replaced. 1448-32: Tunisia. Tunis. Hammam Kachachine -One of the most famous hammam of Tunis. Exclusively reserved to men. This day, regular customers will meet holy men reciting koran. Ech year,

just before Ramadan, Kachachine's owners ask for the blessing of their hammam.

Shoukr baths, situated in the heart of the old city, remains one of the most frequented.

1448-33: Syria. Damascus. Hammam Al Salsila - After the bath, a towel (" futa ") around the waist, people stay a while in the steam and meditate away from the world

1448-40: Syria. Damascus. Hammam Al Jadid - To avoid slipping on wet ground and above all avoiding burning hot marble, sandals are used.

1448-34: Iran. Kerman. Hammam Ibrahim Khan -One of the public baths still in service in Iran. Built in the 19th century, these baths have kept their exceptional mosaics, representing scantily clad women.

1448-41: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Tambali - Badly-maintened, hammam's walls are covered by saltpetre. Plumbing is often defective. Hygiene leaves to be desired. But for many inhabitants of Cairo living in bad conditions, the public bath is the only way to be clean.

1448-35: Algeria. Algiers. Hammam Sidna -These baths date from the 16th century and are the oldest in the Kasbah. It only allows in men and also has a hotel upstairs... the only solution for keeping the baths open.

1448-42: Syria. Hama. Hammam Osmaniye -A few days before a wedding, friends of the future groom reserve the baths for a stag party: a ritual still practiced in Syria, with dancing and bawdy songs.

1448-36: Syria. Aleppo. Hammam Al Nahassin - These twin brothers are manager of hammam Al Nahassin since 20 years. The hammam is opened from 5 :00 am to 1 :00 pm.

1448-43: Syria. Hama. Hammam Osmaniye - A few days before a wedding, friends of the future groom reserve the baths for a stag party: a ritual still practiced in Syria, with dancing and bawdy songs.

1448-37: Syria. Aleppo. Hammam Hanano - The " natur " is a member of staff. He distributes towels and hot drinks to customers. He has an imortant role in the hammam, like an interface between customers and the other employees. 1448-38: Syria. Damascus. Hammam Al Salsila - Hookah, or waterpipes, tea or sodas are served during chattering after the bath. Sometimes discussions continue until dawn. 1448-39: Yemen. Sanaa. Hammam As Shukr - Numbering 17 in the 80s, today there are only 12 baths in Sanaa. The Al

1448-44: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Margoush - Nowadays the Cairenes prefer to wash themselves in their own bathrooms rather than to go to the hammam. No salpetre accumulates on the walls of these sometimes five-century-old buildings. However for the regulars the neighbourhood bath remains the only place which offers moment of abandon carefreeness and hapiness. 1448-45: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cagaloglu -Masseurs have a private space. They put their own things and tips in their private rack.

taken prisoner during the crusades. It is the most impressive one in the capital.

1448-46: Syria. Damascus. Hammam Nour Ed Din -After staying in the blaze, customers get normal temperature again in an other room. It is the favourite time for swimmers. These kind of scenes are frequent in hammams. 1448-47: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Bichr -Near Bab el Futuh in the Husseiniya street, Hammam Bichri survives thanks to its night customers. For few piastres, they can sleep safely here. 1448-48: Tunisia. Tunis. Hammam Halfaouine - A movie has been shot in this hammam in 1990, directed by Farid Boughedir " Halfaouine, the child of terraces". It is a story about a child who attends hammams with his mother, despite the fact he is getting older and reports to his friends spicy details of hammam. Nowadays, this hammam is reserved to men exclusively. 1448-49: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cemberlitas -During the slack periods, masseurs fold towels. There is different kind of towels for covering the parts of bodies : head, shoulders and legs. 1448-50: Syria. Damascus. Hammam Izz Ed Din - The manager decides of the decoration according to the fashion of the moment. Here, probably one of the kitschest of Syria. A fountain decorates the reception hall and refresh it before going in the hot room. 1448-51: Syria. Damascus. Hammam Nour Ed Din -Built by Nour Ed Din in the 12th century, these baths were financed through the ransom of a Frankish king

1448-52: Libya. Tripoli. Hammam Darghout - This customer contradicts the philosopher Seneca, who criticized steam baths, asserting that one sweated without exerting any effort. Many regulars take advantage of their session to maintain their physical form. 1448-53: Turkey. Bursa. Hammam Yenikaplica -The waters of this kaplica are reputed for their therapeutic virtues. Maybe soon this old man will no longer need his crutches. 1448-54: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Talat -Nasra, one of the last masseuses in Cairo. 1448-55: Iran. Kerman. Hammam Ibrahim Khan - The city of Kerman still houses two active public baths. This one, built by Ibrahim Khan, governor of the province of Kerman from 1801 to 1824, is open only to men. Its owner confesses that it needs to be renovated. 1448-56: Algeria. Algiers. Hammam Fouita - These baths were built in the 18th century. The name Fouita comes from the fabric of the same name imported from Tunisia and used to cover the body in the steam baths. 1448-57: Turkey. Bursa. Hammam Eskikaplica - This town located at 200 km far away from Istanbul is reputable since Ottomans for its curative water. Eskikaplica is an hydrotherapic establishment receiving wealthy families. Here, a man rents the hammam to teach his son swimming. 1448-58: Yemen. Jibla. Hammam Arwa -

In this mountain village, the deserted hammam has been turned into meeting place for the children, who go on the slide. 1448-59: Egypt. Cairo. Hammam Sultan Qalaoun - To compensate for the lack of splendour in the baths, the hammamjis took to painting the walls with bright colours. Despite their good intentions, the colours fade, the decor ages, and customers become rare. 1448-60: Turkey. Istanbul. Hammam Cagaloglu - Cupolas from outside. Hammam Cagaloglu.