Like a local issue one autumn 2014
MOSCOW
Moscow was, as some said, the most beautiful mistress a man could ever want, but never cross her: like any good woman, she might just cut off your balls for the hell of it. – Marjorie M. Liu
From half-forgotten killing fields to abandoned military bases to sprawling green spaces in the very center of the city, our Moscow issue is dedicated to getting you outside before the long winter ahead
INDEX
1 Artistic Director Gennady Sobolev
N.1 autumn 2014
Index
Editor-in-Chief Polly Barks
LIKE A LOCAL Collaborators: Anna Belkina (writer / photographer) || Ksenia Smolenskaya (photographer) || Matt Cherneski (writer) || Rhea Skryabina (writer) || Sarah Crowther (writer / photographer) Cover Photo: Ksenia Smolenskaya Contacts: Moscow, Russia likealocalmag@gmail.com About Us: Like a Local is a quarterly, online travel magazine dedicated to bringing its readers stories from beyond the guidebook. Each quarter we plan to turn our readers on to one amazing city and all of its hidden adventures. To Purchase a Hard Copy: If you’re interested in purchasing a hard copy of the Like a Local magazine, please contact us via e-mail or visit our page on MagCloud. Copies of Like a Local are $10 plus shipping and handling. Interested in Advertising? We are always interested in working with clients who match our philosophy of one-ofa-kind travel plans. We accept full-page ads, products for review, or on-site ads. For an advertising kit, please contact us via our site.
WELCOME
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
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ON (NOT) GETTING SWINDLED
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UNCOMMON BOND SPOTLIGHT
SHOPPING: Novaya Zarya FOOD: Day or Night MUSIC: American Abroad SHOPPING: Levsha
NATURE’S BOUNTY NO MAN NO PROBLEM DO THIS DON’T Urban Exploring
You can find us in: Moscow Visit us on our website: likealocalmag.com
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Oh, those ever-changing moods of Moscow! Svetlana Alliluyeva
welcome to beyond the travel guide
“We’re the people who never imagined that we could be explorers or adventurers - but we became them anyway.”
Have you ever thought I mean real-
leafed through page upon glossy page of varied exotic locales, I realized it was just ly thought, about all the all far too much to process. places there are to visit in There are simply too many the world? Even if we play places I wanted to be and fast and loose, discarding those places which are too not enough time or money hot or too cold or whatever for it all. That’s how Like a Local other arbitrary restrictions was born - the magazine for we impose, we’re left with those people not suited to millions upon millions of fantastic places. Isn’t that all massive information dumps or travel overload. a bit overwhelming? And as much as we all love To be honest, that, in the to hold a physical version of end, is why I gave up reaour favorite magazine, there ding travel magazines. As I
LIKE A LOCAL Moscow, autumn 2014
are plenty of reasons to forgo the traditional publishing model. Rather than spend the money on printing, we’d much prefer to give our contributors a little extra cash to spend on a really amazing experience to share with our readers. More importantly, we want to reach as many travelers as possible. An online magazine means that no matter where you are, you’ve got a way to get your hands on our excellent content!
So who are we here adventurers - but we became them anyway. at Like a Local? We’re the kids who decided to move abroad for a year and never looked back. We’re the backpackers who live on two dollars a day and always look like we could use a good shower. We’re the people, bored at our desks and strapped for vacation time, who don’t want to waste a second of our freedom. We’re the people who never imagined that we could be explorers or
That’s where Like a Local comes in: we’re the filter for your travel list. We’re paring it all down, and trying to pull back the curtain from just one wonderful place at a time. That’s right, just the weird, unexplored depths of one, singular city. We’ll do our very best to open up cities in a brand new way and make them exciting, even after you’ve exhausted your guidebook.
PRIVET from moscow there’s a certain magnetism to Moscow that can make it inescapable for someone with a little bit of madness in them.
5 Welcome
I first stepped onto Russian soil sometime in the summer of 2010. As the passengers descended uncertainly from the plane onto the hot tarmac, decked out with white medical masks in a feeble attempt to ward off the smog from massive peat fires, I wondered what exactly I had gotten myself into. It was not a great way to be introduced to the sprawling city, and there were several times during the four-hour, forty kilometer ride (in a non-airconditioned, smoggy car) when I was certain I had made a terrible mistake. Four years later and an unimaginable amount of visas slapped into my passport, I still haven’t quite made up my mind about the city or managed to escape it. I’ve tried, but there’s a certain magnetism to Moscow that can make it inescapable for someone with a little bit of madness in them. I suppose it’s the same for any metropolitan area, but like any proud city-dweller, I will contend that my city is totally unique and that it’s highs (and lows) can never be replicated. Because where else could I finally understand the meaning of gulat as I wandered aimlessly with a group of friends through the city at four in the morning. Where else could I have successfully navigated the massive metro system only when I stopped being in awe of the architecture? In what other city could I have amassed such an eclectic group of friends who get along wonderfully despite the most divisive political and cultural stances? I plug my ears to your defenses of other cities and obstinately should: Moskva! All of this means that when the idea came to create Like a Local – a magazine with a focus on only one city per issue – it was clear that Moscow was my first choice. Surprisingly, it wasn’t as easy as it seemed initially. On the one hand, Moscow was an obvious choice since I had not only the background but the support network to help take on this massive endeavor. On the other hand, tackling Moscow and exposing its hidden gems for outsiders became an almost insurmountable task. There are simply so many places and experiences that the contributors and I wanted to share. In the end, I’m happy with how the inaugural issue of Like a Local has turned out. Because it’s an autumn issue, we chose the broad theme of getting outside and enjoying the last few days of nice weather before winter truly sets in. Our contributors uncovered some of the fascinating histories behind Moscow’s green spaces and provided insight in a way that no general guidebook could hope to replicate. And that’s all we want. Moscow is amazing and, as transplants and locals alike, we will continue to champion this wild, wonderful city and it’s rarely-explored corners. Welcome to Moscow,
Polly Barks Editor-in-Chief
moscow russia
On (not) getting swindled in Moscow
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We’ve heard the standard advice to avoid pickpockets and to not make ourselves targets ad nauseum, but each city is home to their own, unique brand of threats. So here we are to help you navigate these to make your stay in Moscow as enjoyable as it should be: by rhea skryabina
Arriving. Hello! Welco-
me to Russia! Most people’s first point of contact is the airport, and their first order of business is getting out of there to the comfort of their... not the airport. Moscow traffic is famously terrible, so don’t even consider a taxi, not even for a moment. Stop it. Aside from the risk of being stuck in a traffic jam for hours, it’s likely you’ll agree to pay a large amount of money only to have your baggage taken hostage until you pay an even larger
LIKE A LOCAL Moscow, autumn 2014
amount. For roughly $10, take one of the comfortable Aeroexpress trains from any airport right into the city center (practically), convniently located near a metro station; from there it will be easy to navigate the metro, or at least get a better taxi fare. Taxis. Speaking of taxis, they are typically a reasonable price within the city, but prices are always agreed upon beforehand. Not speaking Russian is a handicap, but having a pen and paper handy to negotiate a price
should suffice. Gypsy cabs are a popular, quick, and occasionally cost-effective option, but not recommended for women traveling alone; along the same lines, don’t get into a cab with people already in it. Use a nearby metro station as a reference point. Within the city center, expect to pay between 200 and 500 rubles. If you’re staying anywhere with a Russian speaker (hotel, hostel, CouchSurfing) and need a taxi for a specific occasion, simply ask the front desk/your host
to order one for you (they will be happy to oblige); have the address written down and bring it with you, as most drivers will have a GPS in their vehicle. It’s also possible to order a taxi on the internet in English via a quick Google/Yandex search. Money. So, you’ve come to Russia and need rubles. This is normal. Since it’s at least 2014 right now, your best best is to use your bank card to withdraw money from a cash machine (Банкомат/bankoMAT);
there is no shortage of them in Moscow, often with an English (and sometimes more!) option. You might pay a negligible fee to your own bank (I have never been charged a service fee by any Russian ATM’s), but using a cash machine will save all the hassle of dealing with the murky cash exchange process. But hey, variety is the spice of life, so here are some tips to make exchanging currency (potentially) pain free:
Overly-friendly strangers. It’s not
Where? -Know the going rate for your currency and look for places with the smallest difference between buying and selling rates; conversely, if a rate seems too good to be true, it is. Run away. -Banks are a slightly safer bet than the exchange-only closets that exist all over the city. The city center is better than the outskirts. -Don’t choose a currency exchange point (обмен валюты/obMYEN valYUti) too close to a metro or train station; even if the advertised exchange rate seems good, it’s not what you’ll get. What you’ll get is screwed. -The airport is a bad rate, but fine for smaller amounts. How? -Ask how much they’ll give you for the amount you want to exchange. Don’t speak Russian? Write down what you expect to get (use a calculator) before you hand over all your monies. If it’s not what you’re expecting, go somewhere else. If they’re not starting the transaction honestly, how do you expect it to end?
uncommon to see, in pedestrian-heavy areas, men aggressively hugging and touching otherwise unacquainted women. Apart the shock at how OK the women of Moscow seem with this, they may be brushed off as harmless creepers. Unfortunately, it’s far more likely they’re opportunistically frisking pockets and handbags for easy-to-grab valuables. So, ladies, beware. Along those lines, be wary of too-chummy Russians who befriend you, especially whilst drinking. Early in our time in Moscow, we had a friend who had been drinking with some Russians he’d met that very night, and woke up the next morning to find he no longer had his first “paycheck” (several hundred dollars worth of cash) nor his camera. He didn’t even remember it happening. That isn’t to say you shouldn’t befriend the locals, it can be a good time, but it’s a good idea not to be very drunk.
Corrupt cops/Street scams. Full disclosure,
this may no longer be as common, but it’s possible cops will stop you for an ‘infraction’ and expect a pay out. Keep your passport and registration (copies should suffice if it makes you uncomfortable to carry the originals) with you at all times. Unfortunately, there probably isn’t much you can do without some facility with the Russian language except offer a small bribe; the upside: if they see a Western passport, they’re likely to drop it. A common scam discussed on the internet is where someone ‘drops’/’finds’ a wallet/bag/bunch of money (nothing suspicious about that!) and offers to split it with you, then suddenly a ‘police man’ approaches and accuses you of engaging in something unsavory (or something of this nature). The details are a bit convoluted, just keep your distance if someone approaches you who doesn’t have a clear reason to. If there’s one thing that’s socially acceptable in Moscow, it’s to completely ignore strangers.
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Watch out! -Most transactions take place via a drawer under bullet-proof (I hope!) glass; if the contents of the drawer aren’t visible at all times, feel around for all your rubles when you’re retrieving them. It’s not uncommon for the teller to leave a few notes in a separate pile, in hopes of you not noticing. Good to know: -Before your trip, make a trip to your local bank and get some good quality bills; new and undamaged. -Call your bank to let them know you’ll be traveling abroad. Credit cards are widely accepted in shops/restaurants, but check in advance for foreign transaction fees, which add up.
Ksenia smolenskaya
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Ksenia smolenskaya LIKE A LOCAL Moscow, autumn 2014
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Ksenia smolenskaya
Shashlik (grilled meat) at VDNKh.
(шашлык/shashLIK) and medovukha (honey wine). VDNKh (now: VVTs), the All- Definitely stop for the medovukha; definitely pass Russian Exhibition Center is a magnificent throwback on the shashlik. You’ll end up with an unexpectedly to the glory of the Soviet Union, with large parts of it high bill and threats to call now run-down and abando- the police if you balk. Go to ned. Some of the pavilions the VVTs, take a walk, enjoy house markets with various the ferris wheel, relax in the shade with half a liter vendors of electronics or of medovukha, and save gardening supplies. Theyour appetite for something re is a go-kart circuit in one. In the more pleasant worthwhile. months, numerous sidewalk Izmailovo/bartering cafes appear, most of them in general. Regardless offering grilled meat of your standpoint on
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souvenirs, the marketplaces are a great experience all on their own, with an impressive range of goods for sale. Izamilovo is one of the best (plus, shashlik!) but by no means the only one. When buying souvenirs from a marketplace, you can negotiate a better price. Most of those people speak bartering-English (at least!), so forget your dreams of mastering Russian and just go at it in English, and don’t be afraid to walk away. On a related topic, when buying
fruits or vegetables from a stand, be sure to select the items and place them in the bag yourself, otherwise the vendor will view it as an opportunity to unload their less desirable (read: rotten) products. Gypsies. Coming from America, it’s possible for one to be unaware that gypsies are even a thing (unless you’ve visited Italy). Without delving into the politics of the Romani people in Europe (often called the most hated minority in
Keep your distance if someone approaches you who doesn’t have a clear reason to. If there’s one thing that’s sociall acceptable in moscow, it’s completely ignoring strangers.
Europe), it’s typically safe to say that encounters with them will actually be pretty minimal within the confines of Moscow. But, if journeying out of the city on an elektrichka (electric commuter train), your chances of encountering groups of hustling gypsies go up considerably. Keep your valuables in sight and locked down and ignore their advances.
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Uncommon Bond While it is a time-honored tradition of the extremely wealthy to take up with their young, nubile servants… It seemed, to some of those in the know, that the Sheremetev heir was actually serious about his adoration for the common-born performer.” As an American, wandering the former estates of Russia’s aristocracy is not totally unlike my youthful field trips to former plantations. Both settings are beautiful, sprawling testaments to rich versus poor and the subjugation of fellow man. However unlike the American practice of importing Black slaves from abroad, wealthy Russians of the past were more than happy to use the peasant class already available to them in the age-old feudal tradition. Another odd difference from the American tradition (and a nod to Russia’s continual quest to cultivate the Russian soul), was that Russian peasants (called serfs) were often called upon as entertainment for their masters. While American slaves were resigned to
LIKE A LOCAL Moscow, autumn 2014
a life of back-breaking farm work, a select group of talented serfs were culled from the herd to perform some of the most moving, complex theater and opera of the time. The so-called Russian Serf Theaters were produced by anyone who was anyone and favored by Russian aristocrats as a curious form of highbrow entertainment. Those deemed to have what it took to perform for their masters were hand-picked and trained from their earliest childhood to perform for their rich owners. Only the wealthiest of patrons were able to create elaborate theaters and increase their standing by purchasing the serf-stars du jour. Luckily, pre-revolution Russia didn’t lack in funds for these not-so-ethical theatrical
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endeavors. Like any good monarchical society, the country had cultivated a small group of intensely powerful and wealthy families. Above all shone the Sheremetev family. While relatively unknown to the western world (aside from perhaps the major Moscow airport named for them), the Sheremetev family was for centuries intimately intertwined with the Russian nobility until its downfall after the Russian Revolution. Think of any well-known Russian figure - Ivan the Terrible, Peter the Great, Catherine the Great, Nikolai II - and the Sheremetev family and its massive wealth were never far behind. A large part of the Sheremetev wealth came from their massive property holdings which stretched through large
parts of western Russia. In the mid-18th century, over 150 years away from the Russian aristocracy’s downfall, the Sheremetev head - Pyotr - owned over 200,000 serfs and over 2 million acres of land spread across Russia. Pyotr’s favorite past time, aside from accumulating massive amounts of wealth, was developing Russian culture through music and theater, using his ample serf population. One of his lasting (if ethically ambiguous) contributions to the Russian culture scene of the time was the development of his Serf Theater, declared the best and the brightest of the time. Any child of Pyotr Sheremetev stood little chance of avoiding his father’s obsession with music and theater. Born in 1751 to Pyotr Sheremetev
See the Story Kuskovo Estate, the location that began and fostered the unlikely romance between the Sheremetev heir and his talented serf, is a sprawling area located due east of Moscow’s center. Unlike some other former estates, Kuskovo retains the refined charm one expects from the house and grounds of Russia’s richest families. The estate in its current incarnation contains several buildings including the Palace, Grotto, Italian and Dutch houses, and the American orangery. A special, permanent exhibition in the Palace, entitled “The Essence of Her Soul”, is dedicated to the serf star Praskovia Zhemchugova. Entrance to the grounds is 150 rubles for foreigners; tickets to the Zhemchugova exhibition is an addition 50 rubles.
polly barks contemplates history’s effect on the most questionably romantic master-slave relationship in russia Above The Kuskovo Palace, part of the Kuskovo Estate built between 1740 and 1780 under the direction of Pyotr Sheremetev.
and the daughter of a highranking court official, Nikolai was raised amid the typical opulence of the family and his father’s cultural fervor. Nikolai showed an early proclivity for music and theater, appearing as the lead in various productions and became proficient on the cello. As was typical of the Russian aristocracy, Nikolai spent several years traveling through western Europe taking music lessons and viewing some of the greatest theater productions on offer. At the age of twenty four Nikolai returned to his homeland, inspired by what he had seen abroad and determined to bring a slice of Paris to Russia. It is difficult to imagine a life more different from Nikolai Sheremetev’s than that of
Praskovia Kolvalyova. Born to a serf family in the Yaroslavl region, Praskovia grew up on the Sheremetev’s sprawling Kuskovo estate several miles east of Moscow. She first crossed paths with Nikolai Sheremetev after his return from abroad. He was 24 and she was a small, dark-haired 7-year-old with an angelic voice. Nikolai, determined to continue the legacy of his father’s serf theater and take it to the next level, whisked Kolvalyvova away from her family and took the immensely talented child under his direct tutelage. In a few short years, thanks to Nikolai’s attention and the help of various tutors, Kolvalyova could read, speak, and sing in Italian and French as well as play several instru-
ments. It was, by all accounts, already a life far more accomplished than any serf could hope to imagine. Kolvalyova made her debut at the serf theater in 1779 and immediately became the favored performer of Russia’s elite. In just a few short years the serfborn girl had skyrocketed to fame far beyond her wildest dreams and had been renamed (the surnames of wellknown serfs were often deemed too vulgar and common) ‘Zhemchugova’ - The Pearl. Even Catherine the Great was so taken with the young talent that she presented the girl with a diamond ring from her personal collection. Zhemchugova had truly led a charmed life. But the Emperess’ ring was only the start.
Park open from 10am – 8pm daily. Buildings open from 10am – 6pm daily. Ticket counter closes at 5pm. Moscow, 111402, Ulitsa Yunosti, 2 Metro Ryazansky Prospekt or Novogireevo +7 495 375 31 31, zakaz@kuskovo.ru
Extra Credit For a more complete and fascinating look into the forbidden love of the Sheremetev-Zhemchugova story, pick up The Pearl: A True Tale of Forbidden Love in Catherine the Great’s Russia by Douglas Smith.
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My feelings for her were of the most tender kind... as I regarded her intellect, graced by virtue, sincerity, humanity, constancy, fidelity. These remarkable qualities forced me to disregard all class prejudices and obligations of my noble status and choose her for my wife... (Text from sheremetev’s personal correspondence)
Zhemchugova continued as the lead in almost every serf theater performance at the Kuskovo estate and, after many years of close observation, she and Nikolai began a relationship. Zhemchugova would have been around 15 or 16 and Nikolai 33 or 34. The relationship instantly caused a scandal. It is, of course, a time-honored tradition of the extremely wealthy to take up with their young, nubile servants. Think back to the plantations of America – even the esteemed Thomas Jefferson took up with Sally Hemings, his mixed race slave. But like the rest of genteel society, Jefferson knew that the trick to a successful master-slave relationship was to keep the relationship discreet. Nikolai Sheremetev seemed to have missed that decree. Unlike Jefferson, who noted the birth of his six illegitimate heirs in the plantation’s slave book but declined to name the father, it seemed, to some of those in the know, that the Sheremetev heir was actually serious about his adoration for the commonborn performer. Rumors continued to fly for years and only intensified when Pyotr died and the two set up a small household on the edge of the Kuskovo estate. While still keeping their love an incredibly badly-kept
secret, the pair settled into a calm life. Zhemchugova performed all of the lead roles in the Sheremetev Serf Theater and Nikolai continued expanding his and his late father’s cultural ambitions. Nikolai decided to create a new theater on one of the other Sheremetev Moscow estates – Ostankino – in 1791. He continued to be the talk of the town as he faithfully brought his lover along with him. Life went on peacefully and it seemed that the two had fulfilled any number of trite cliches: the pair of star-crossed lovers had proved that love could conquer all. Until it all changed. Several years after their move to the Ostankino estate, Zhemchugova developed what seemed likely to be consumption (tuberculosis) which quickly destroyed her throat and forced her to stop performing. Lack of a creative outlet, compounded by her reluctance to remain simply a mistress to Count Sheremetev, threw her into a deep depression. These unfortunate events spurred Sheremetev into action. In 1798 – nearly twenty years into their relationship – he freed Zhemchugova and all of her family. The same year, understanding that Zhemchugova’s bad LIKE A LOCAL Moscow, autumn 2014
health would not let her return to performing, Sheremetev closed down the Ostankino theater. It was clear the theater was not the same without her. Despite her inability to perform, Sheremetev and Zhemchugova remained together and in 1801 were finally married. The marriage was conducted in secret – but not before Nikolai created a fake genealogy declaring his new wife a long-lost descendent of a Polish nobleman and therefore the ultimate marriage material. Zhemchugova became pregnant just a few months after the wedding and gave birth to a son. Due to her poor health, it was clear that Zhemchugova wouldn’t live for much longer and Nikolai begged the Emperor to officially recognize their marriage before his wife’s death. Zhemchugova died just two short weeks later. Though polite society refused to acknowledge the marriage or the death of his wife, Sheremetev insisted that his wife be buried in the family crypt and declared her son to be a true Sheremetev heir. The cynic in me comes to the same conclusion I did as a young girl touring the former plantation fields: history has soften the edges of our
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uncomfortable relationship with these kinds of stories. While there’s no denying the horrors of plantation masters taking unconditionally what they considered theirs, in the Deep South there has among some emerged a tendency to romanticize the genteel ways of the slavery era. In the same way there is a dreamy, faraway look on the faces of the tour guides at the former Sheremetev estates as they recount the epic love between master and slave. Massive displays of opulence and tales of refined debauchery creates a legacy more like a fairytale, rather than an older man taking up with a much younger, clearly disadvantaged girl. I’ll admit: I have no idea what the exact nature of the Sheremetev heir’s relationship with the much younger serf was; however, imagining the refined strains of opera echoing through Kuskovo and Ostankino certainly seems to help remove some of the more jagged edges.
On The Left The Ostankino Palace, currently under contruction, sits quietly behind the elegant stone and metal fence. Various statues created in the likeness of Greek gods and goddess dot the pristine lawn of the Kuskovo estate. See the Story Today the rather dismal remains of the 18th century Ostankino Estate is overshadowed by the dual soviet monoliths Ostankino Tower and the All-Russian Exhibition Center (VVTs/VDNKh). While the estate’s grounds have shrunken considerably to facilitate Moscow’s massive sprawl, the fully wooden Palace and Nikolai Sheremetev’s stage for his serf theater still remain. In fact, the very stage upon which Zhemchugova sang centuries ago not only remains intact, but was still used for classical music performances until a recent reconstruction effort closed down the Palace. Unfortunately, the wooden palace is still closed for renovations, although visitors are able to walk close and get a glimpse inside. Entrance to the park is 20 rubles. Guided tours of the park are available for 100 rubles (including entrance fee). Park open from 11am – 8pm daily. Moscow, 129515, 1st Ostankinskaya Street, 5 Metro VDNKh +7 495 683 46-45
Extra Credit The Ostankino estate was built by Nikolai’s music-obsessed father, Pyotr, as a tribute to Russian culture and soul. In a letter to his son recounting the construction process, Pyotr wrote of the project, “I put the whole soul and represented all my knowledge and taste in the Ostankino palace”.
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Ksenia smolenskaya
Я имел удовольствие встретиться с этим молодым человеком на Патриарших прудах. Мастер и Маргарита (Михаил Булгаков)
I had the pleasure of meeting that young man at the Patriarch’s Ponds. Master and Margarita (by Mikhail Bulgakov)
bulgakovmuseum.ru LIKE A LOCAL Moscow, autumn 2014
spotlight
moscow’s hottest spots we’ve scoped out the best places to eat, drink, and be merry while in moscow. Oh, and of course pick up one or two lasting memories.
Moscow, autumn 2014 LIKE A LOCAL
anna belkina
Spotlight
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Novaya Zarya
ulitsa Pavla Andreeva 23
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Now it’s difficult to believe, but the history of the legendary perfumery “New Dawn – Nouvelle Etoile” began in a stable on one of the small side streets of Moscow. The original equiptment included three pots, a mortar for grinding the ingredients, and an oven.
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Want to buy something original, of good quality and truly Russian besides a nesting doll? Want to trade in “made in China” for “made in Moscow”? Novaya Zarya (New Dawn) is the place for you. Founded in Moscow in 1884 by a French perfumer, this cosmetics manufacturing house quickly gained a loyal following and respect of the discerning crowd for the products that matched France’s parfumerie standards and used the best local ingredients. These traditions continued through the Soviet era. Now state-owned, NZ actually exported some of its raw product base, such as essential oils, to France, and by th mid1970s, it was the largest LIKE A LOCAL Moscow, autumn 2014
perfume factory in USSR and all of Europe. The firm’s trademark perfume, Krasnaya Moskva (Red Moscow), reached a cult status: it was worn by all the Soviet celebrities of the era – movie stars and cosmonauts alike – and was featured in many films, including the famous Pokrovskie Vorota (Pokrovka Gates). Today NZ’s line of products is its most diverse ever. Literally hundreds of varieties of perfume, cologne, cosmetics and skincare for men and women line the shelves of NZ’s flagship ‘salon-shop,’ located a 5-minute walk from the Dobryninskaya metro stop (center-south, brown circular line). Many fragrances are inspired by a single flower, like lily of the valley, but there
are custom blends too, such as Red Moscow and My Ideal – From the Mayor of Moscow (Seriously, that’s the name. Can you think of anything more local?). There are gift sets, toys and even NZ-branded silk ties. Nearly everything continues to be manufactured in Moscow, with the same minimalist approach to ingredients as 130 years ago. But it’s the prices that really close the deal. A 100-ml bottle of eau de parfum for under $20. Shampoo and body wash for $2. Fluffy stuffed chickens, goats and pandas for under $10. You’re bound to walk away with bags of all-Russian goodies for yourself everyone you know. Anna Belkina
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anna belkina
For a lazy Sunday,
day or night
that classy way where an expat, a tourist or an urban professional will feel comfortable. It is entirely lacking in pretense that is usually this city’s mandatory side dish. The staff is friendly and chatty. The interior is shabby eclectic On The Left with a touch of hipster After work, head to Hub. Americana, complete with Your visit won’t be coma surfboard and a vintage plete until you ‘ve had a neon-green refrigerator. It pint or two of their local feels spacious for what is in draft beer, FUEL. fact a somewhat small, sin82/34 Pyatnitskaya gle room that houses dining Ulitsa (metro Novokuztables, a bar, open kitchen netskaya); 10am - midand a DJ booth. night daily, sometimes At first glance the food later on weekends. menu is sparse – just 11 items in total – but has all On the right the essentials, including If you need an early vegetarian options, for $10 morning pick-me-up, or less. The Cobb salad is Brownie cafe offers a a heap of fresh ingredients complimentary flavored including avocado, served donut with each cappuwith zesty house dressing cino. We recommend the on the side, and is so enorcinnamon pairing. mous, it can easily be an Maliy Kozikhinsky pereuentrée for two. lok (metro Tverskaya); Hub also stocks a full bar, 8am - 11pm daily. plus several drafts including If you need soa local beer (“American mething harder FUEL Brewed in Moscow”) than coffee, Hub is a for $4.50 a pint, and hard mildly confusing, hole-incider for $7.50. For those the-wall place on one of the staying alcohol-free, there busiest avenues in Moscow, are 8 freshly squeezed juice but it delivers everything options, and the cappucciyou’ll want from a low-key nos are fantastic. eatery. It’s a bit of a dive, but in Anna Belkina / Polly Barks head to Brownie Cafe, the latest venture of the hipster-styled Friends Forever Company. It’s making a real go of bringing cool, unique cafes and restaurants into Moscow and fighting the frankly mediocre food and drinks that populate most cafes. With a clean, ‘60s Americana theme, Brownie Cafe is immediately welcoming in a way that Moscow cafes often aren’t. Towering cakes beckon from a massive glass display case and the smell of freshly prepared, generously-portioned main dishes send everyone beelining for one of the few remaining free spaces. The cafe’s open kitchen plan is also great fun — you can watch future cakes being made as you snack. A warning, though: you may get jealous of the mint green, 1950s style kitchen appliances they’ve got going on.
Moscow, autumn 2014 LIKE A LOCAL
American Abroad
Spotlight
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The story of Daniel Taylor, the fun-loving, Minnesota-born founder of far cities, and how exactly Russia’s capital shaped his musical career.
by polly barks photo credit dan taylor
check out far cities’ newest release ‘respite’ - produced in moscow, russia during early 2014 - and stay tuned for taylor’s future solo productions. soundcloud.com/far-cities/ Facebook.com/farcities
A musically-inclined American who relocated to Moscow in 2010, Daniel Taylor and his band Far Cities is proving that the old trope ‘music is universal’ is pretty much true. Taylor founded Far Cities after playing with several Russian bands and finding he prefered to strike out on his own. The universality of music helped make it happen easier than one might expect. Taylor found that most of the differences between making music in Russia and America were more superficial than substantive. He notes that a lot of musicians in Moscow often dressed in a hipster style in a way that “seemed like a costume” and had a greater focus on style rather than substance. Taylor goes on to admit that the sometimes superficial nature of the Moscow music scene worked well for him. “I’m really unremarkable in America... but taken out of context, a tattooed American musician is more ‘real’ than a Russian pretending he’s an American-indie rocker.” No matter his extra street cred, Taylor is all about music and performance. He threw out a few words to define his music, but finally ended with a feel-good philosophy, rather than a genre: “Really it’s all about low-key, good time music. I [usually] wrote... about LIKE A LOCAL Moscow, autumn 2014
those last years of college before life starts and everything feels amazing and confident.” Nobody who’s been to a Far Cities show can really argue with that. Far Cities show may lack some finesse, but the band’s sheer enthusiasm and energy in each show gets the traditionally stoic Russian crowds up and dancing. Taylor’s genuine, infectious energy is a joy to watch. Far Cities released an album in May 2014 with the help of producer Alex Suprunov. Unfortunately that coincided with Taylor’s unceremonious departure from Moscow – Russian politicking at its finest. Because of that, he’s has had a lot of time to reconsider his sound and the carefree attitude behind it. He admits that leaving Russia affected his music and describes the new vibe as “calmer and more focused on where my life is at... that is, on the cusp of growing up and also struggling with some of the recent loss of Russia, career, and my family”. A more mature sound definitely doesn’t mean the end of Far Cities. It just means at some point we’ve all got to grow up a little.
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Although my fashion choices seemed absolutely inspired in the semi-darkness of our small apartment, twenty kilometers outside of Moscow the gauzy dress and stockings were more than a little out of place. My frothy femininity pointed a big neon arrow over my head that was visible at even the most cluttered stall. Suddenly, after venturing into the Moscow region, my dress was shouting something very specific to the grizzled stallkeepers: “Here’s a girl who’s ready to buy some soviet crap. And give you a good time.” Most of Moscow’s tourists will have already heard of Izmailovo as guidebooks tend to wax poetic over its charming, soviet-era relics. What most guidebooks fail to account for is the massive influx of tourists that swarm through the market every day and the sellers’ willingness to wholeheartedly embrace the capitalist system to their advantage. These days, Izmailovo is a perfectly fine place to visit and buy a few basementpriced matryoshki, but its heyday as a real flea market is basically over. In previous times, it was possible to avoid the crush at Izmailovo by visiting one of the other large markets
scattered throughout Moscow. Unfortunately, the golden age of Moscow’s sprawling flea markets is on the decline. Tighter restrictions and an ever-present need for space for new apartments and office space have spelled the demise of many Moscow staples. One massive exception remains: Levsha. (In fact, the market’s license has recently been renewed, allowing them to continue operations until at least 2018.) As soon as you get within 100 meters of the market you’ll be assaulted by several grandmas hellbent on selling small knick-knacks they’ve had lying around their soviet flats since the mid-sixties. While there may be a few interesting odds and ends, it’s likely that there won’t be much of anything interesting there. The real fun starts when you enter the grounds just beyond the inital crush of the train station. Because staking out a spot in the actual market space requires paying a fee, these vendors are more likely to have the good stuff. At the very entrance stands several lines of wooden stalls which house the best (and therefore most expensive) wares. If you’re looking for vintage leather goods, army uniforms from the USSR, or or excellently-preserved
Levsha
houswares, this is your place. The range of vintage soviet cameras bears mentioning too and, aside from several incredibly rare models, the prices are all decent. Beyond those lies the secondary level: vendors with large tarps spread out to showcase the goods. While terrible on the knees, all the squatting is worth it - sometimes you can circumvent the higher prices of the stalls by finding the same item among the debris. On the far end of the lot are piles upon piles (upon piles) of clothing. While some of the stock is discarded H&M, a little dig will reveal some of the most fascinating fashions of the USSR at excellent (and higly negotiable) prices. From massive men selling dubious electronics to the more expensive antiques shops to the smallest babushka with a blanket and a few items from her wardrobe, everyone at Levsha is there to sell you a bit of nostalgia. In the end my first trip to Levsha ended with neither a grope nor any soviet treasures, despite my dress and the siren call of a small purple accordian. Like any good flea market patron, I know that you win some and you lose some. And - a return trip to Levsha is always in the cards.
Start your journey at the iconic Leningradsky Station (metro Komsomolskaya) and purchase a ticket to the Novodrezkovo station. The ride costs about $2 and takes 35 minutes by elektrichka, Russia’s electric-run train system. Don’t worry too much if it’s your first Russian elektrichka experience - the flood of pushy old women to the exit and the vast expanse of vendors starting at the very edge of the train tracks make the stop impossible to miss.
Moscow, autumn 2014 LIKE A LOCAL
nature’s bounty with winter on the way, moscow in autumn still offers a plethora of green spaces to enjoy russia’s final golden days. like a local’s correspondent sarah crowther encourages you to pack up your picnic basket and enjoy some quiet relaxation before the frost arrives.
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nsurprisingly for a former imperial power, Russia has a number of royal gardens and estates. St. Petersburg, once the capital, has the majority, but there are many beautiful examples in Moscow too. In addition, Moscow has a number of Soviet parks which filled the void of grandeur left by the start of the Revolution. These new Soviet parks were equally grand, but replaced the Romanov crest emblazoned on buildings with the iconic hammer and sickle, massive statues of revolutionary heros, and other communist propaganda. The problem with many of Moscow’s parks is that they can feel overdeveloped and so crammed with stuff – Ferris wheels, food kiosks, fountains and blasting music – that they feel more like carnivals than parks. The chaos is not totally unplanned: Moscow’s parks are meeting grounds and places for entertainment when most Muscovites need an escape from their cramped apartments. If you and your friends are in the mood for a picnic devoid of massive crowds, there are several green spaces around Moscow to host a sedate picnic. But don’t worry, you won’t be totally alone: men will gather to play chess or families will meet in a nearby park or courtyard to celebrate a birthday, bringing some store-bought cake, cans of beer, and flowers.
FIND SOME PEACE IN MOSCOW Moscow Botanical Garden
The Botanical Gardens at the Russian Academy of Sciences are crammed with more than 20,000 different species of plants and cover an area of almost four kilometres. Erected in 1945, they are said to be the largest botanical gardens in Europe. That is all the more impressive when you consider that the Botanical Gardens are part of VDNKh, an enormous exhibition ground and fair park. VDNKh still holds exhibits of all sorts - cat shows in summer, fur coat fairs in winter - and attracts huge crowds year round. But the botanical gardens are different. Both calmer and less kept, if you venture too far from the trodden paths you will find yourself among the brambles and some very tall grass. To get there take the grey line north to Vladykino, then walk south through the park, passing first through the ponds, onward to the paved area where you will find others roller skating, playing badminton and biking. You could also venture north from VDNKh metro through the fairgrounds, cutting through the din in search of the perfect picnic spot.
Kolomenskoe
Although it was erected more than 500 years ago, the royal estate of Kolomenskoe remains a marvel. Added to the UNESCO world heritage list in 1994, its white-steepled Church of the Ascension is called a masterpiece of Russian architecture and was built to commemorate the birth of the prince who would become Ivan the Terrible. In the early spring the mist curls around the buildings, creating a quiet, haunting atmosphere. If you come in the spring or fall you will also be around for the honey festival, a delightful showcase of honey and medovukha (honey mead) imported from all over Russia. Kolomenskoe is very easy to get to from its own station, Kolomenskaya, south on the dark green metro line. And for such a spectacular site, with an entire complex of impressive buildings, it does not take long for the crowds to start thinning out, until you are alone. You can always find a quiet bench near the water, further into the park, which has the added benefit of lovely views across the Moscow River.
Fallen Monuments Park
The majority of tourists flock to nearby Gorky Park; after its incredible renovation they are right to do so. But right across the street is the lesserknown Fallen Monuments Park. It received its name from the disgarded relics of the now-defunct USSR. Nestled next to the art museum Muzeon, the park makes a lovely picnic spot in the summer with its frequent open-air films and concerts. It also has a delightful forgotten, dusty air to it, despite the fact that it is across the street from Moscow’s most famous park. On the Moscow river side the park also offers a great view of a current statue: the 98-foot high bronze, steel and copper statue of Peter the Great, erected in 1997. It is lamented by many as an eyesore, and is a source great irony since Peter the Great was said to have detested Moscow. You can get to the Fallen Monuments Park by taking the brown circle line to Oktyabrskaya and then walking west on Krymski Val (Крымский Вал). It is 100 rubles to enter, but this is not always enforced.
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the latter days of fall are often cursed, but as for me, kind reader, she is preious in all her quet beauty, mellow glow... to tell you honestly, of all the times of year, i cherish her alone. -autumn, a.s. pushkin
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These three choices are scatter around the city so no matter where you’re staying in Moscow, there will always be a green space nearby. While the classic fairground parks have their place, the other, quieter spaces are equally appealing for a day with a fleeting glimpse of sun and good weather. (Note: picnic tables are rare in Russian parks, so you may have to bring a blanket or make do with the park benches.)
Moscow Botanical Garden of the Academy of Sciences Park is open 24 hours a day. Botanical gardens open 9am–6pm. Moscow, 127276, Botanicheskaya Street Metro Vladykino +7 499 977 91 45 info@gbsad.ru Kolomenskoe Park is open 24 hours a day. Moscow, 115487, Andropov Prospect 39 Metro Kolomenskoye or Kashirskoye +7 499 615 27 68 info@mgomz.ru Fallen Monuments Park Park is open 8am – 10pm in autumn and winter; 8am – 11pm in spring and summer. Moscow, Krimsky Val 2 Metro Oktyabrskaya or Park Kultury +7 985 382 27 32 infobox.muzeon@gmail.com
no man no problem
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LIKE A LOCAL Moscow, autumn 2014
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The surprisingly international history behind one of Stalin’s notorious killing fields - the butovo firing range. text by matt cherneski. photos by polly barks experience that Butovo Having lived in Russia for a couple years, is the polar opposite of I’ve learned several things about Russian people. Did you know that every Russian loves conspiracy theories? They can’t get enough of them. If facts tell you that something is ninety-nine percent certain, Russians will err on the side of the one percent. I’ve learned that it is futile to argue with a Russian about anything important happening in Russia, as the conversation will end: “You just don’t understand the Russian soul.” I’ve also learned that no matter which Muscovite you ask, they all agree on one thing: Butovo, a small micro-district in southern Moscow, is the worst place in the Moscow region, in all of Russia, and perhaps on planet Earth. If you have the delight of meeting real Russians while you are touring Moscow, ask them about Butovo and see what they say. Tell them that you are thinking of traveling to see what all the fuss is about. Every Muscovite you ask will do the following: 1. smirk, 2. laugh, 3. see you’re serious and 4. warn you that Butovo is horrifically dangerous and overrun with gopniki (Russian punks/chavs) that will beat and mug you. Well, I am here to tell you from two years of personal
what Muscovites tell you. It’s a perfectly safe and sleepy suburb where real middle-class Russians live. However, don’t be fooled – Butovo does have a dark side. It also houses a piece of Soviet history that has been swept under the rug: The Butovo Shooting Range (Butovsky Poligon).
Anyone who has studied a bit of Russian and Soviet history has heard of
the Great Purge, the time from 1934 until 1940 when Joseph Stalin ordered the removal of anyone who was deemed dangerous to the survival of the State and the advancement of communism. The unimaginable terror included the arrest, deportation, imprisonment, and execution of millions of innocent people from every corner the Soviet Union. Infamous sites across the vast Soviet Empire have gone down in history as places of some of the worst, most inhumane treatment of people ever recorded. Mass deportations of entire ethnic nations were ordered by Stalin. The Purge also included the execution of anyone who was deemed dangerous to the State: the intelligentsia, religious believers, authors, painters,
musicians, Red Army officers, NKVD (secret police) agents who happened to draw suspicion, neighbors, mothers, fathers, sons, and daughters. There wasn’t a single family that wasn’t affected by the regime’s mass repressions. Nowadays, most of the remnants of Stalin’s Great Purge are gone. The gulag camps have been reduced to rusty, barbed-wire fences and rotting watch towers that were once used to guard the camps. Small monuments have been erected here and there to commemorate those who were lost. For the most part, Stalin’s atrocities are reserved to a paragraph or two in a school textbook, if that. They have become a negligible piece of history in Russia. However, there are some places which have been preserved and turned into somber memorials for those murdered by Stalin’s hand. Butovo is one of those places. The Butovo Firing Range is an easy metro ride to the bottom of the grey line, to the metro stop Bul’var Dmitriya Donskogo, and a short taxi or bus ride to the entrance of what is now a small church on Russian Orthodox land that serves as a remembrance to over 20,000 people executed during the Great Purge.
The Butovo Firing Range is an interesting piece of Soviet history, not only because it’s the final resting place of so many innocent people, but because the people who were murdered at Butovo were not just Russians or Soviets. They were not only the intelligentsia,
the history isn’t ‘ours.’ As amazing as the Kremlin and Red Square, the Winter Palace, and the houses of famous Russian writers are, they don’t hold history that necessarily resonates with us. In contrast, Butovo is a place where you can see and feel a history that directly relates to countries like the United States, Germany, Canada, among did you know that ever others. Some interesting anecdorussian loves conspiracy tes that may pique your interest in visiting Butovo are theories? if facts tell described by Tim Tzouliadis you that someting is nine- in his book The Forsaken: ty-nine percent certain, An American Tragedy in Stalin’s Russia. He chronicles russians will err on the the history of the thousands side of the one percent. of Americans who actually moved to Stalin’s Russia after the Great Depression. What many Americans don’t Red Army officers, and “sa- realize is that prior to World boteurs.” They were actually War II the U.S. and the Soa collection of people from viet Union were on decent over 70 countries, including terms, or at least on terms good enough to not threaAmericans, Canadians, ten one another with nucleFinns, Germans, and many ar annihilation. Newspapers more. That’s right. Stalin’s atroci- in the U.S. frequently ran headlines proclaiming that ties were not just inflicted on Russians and citizens of unemployment didn’t exist the Soviet Union, but people in the U.S.S.R., something from all over the world. This that was shocking to many Depression-era Americans. fact is what makes Butovo At this point, everyone a must-see when visiting reading this should call up Moscow as a westerner. their grandparents and ask, Often when traveling we “why didn’t you move to the are encouraged to go and visit a site where so-and-so Soviet Union in the 1930s? Matt said that the U.S.S.R. happened, but in reality, was heaven on Earth!”
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Moscow, autumn 2014 LIKE A LOCAL
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The death of one man is a tragedy. The death of millions is a statistic.
On The Left A small wooden church stands as the lone guardian of the Butovo Firing Range. Behind it lies grass-covered mounds and trees heavy with apples as nature takes back what was formerly a secret police compound. Above A long row of poorly kept signs with the names of those murdered from 1937-1938. A gruesome month-by-month chart of executions can be found nearby.
LIKE A LOCAL Moscow, autumn 2014
Schedule: The mass grave site and the church are open to visitors daily from 10am to 5pm. Important: WOMENdon’t forget to bring a scarf to cover your hair. The site is now Russian Orthodox Church land which means you have to cover your hair. Any light scarf will do.
They probably don’t remember much about that part of the relationship. Major American companies like Ford had jointventures with Russian companies. Unsurprisingly, there were thousands of Americans that decided to try their hand in the Soviet Union. Little did they know that when they arrived, they would often have their passport taken and be stuck in the Soviet Union for years, sometimes decades. When the paranoia began to run rampant and the purges were ordered, many of these Americans who couldn’t escape simply disappeared. They were sent to gulag camps in Siberia and Kazakhstan or were ordered to be executed.
Butovo is the final resting place of nine Americans who found themselves on the wrong side of Stalin’s system. Sadly, the Americans executed on the Butovo site, like most of the other victims, were accused of crimes that were not only false, but almost totally unbelievable. Walter and Arnold Preedlin, brothers and originally from Boston, are two of the more well-known victims at Butovo. Both were executed for having ties to “Latvian intelligence.” You should look for their names when you visit the site.
When you go to Butovo now, all you
can see are sedate gardens to commemorate the mass graves, a small Russian
Orthodox church, and monuments with the names of all of the 20,765 victims. Despite what happened there, the Butovo site is quite peaceful, albeit somber. It is a place that is hard to wrap your head around, especially when you think about how minimal this Moscow mass grave is compared to the total number of people who died during Stalin’s regime. Although there are no reliable numbers to make exact conclusions, it is safe to say that those killed at Butovo make up roughly only one one-thousandth of the total number of people who died as a result of Stalin’s regime. This number doesn’t even touch on the millions upon millions of deaths connected with World
War II. The scale of the terror is simply impossible to rationally understand. So, if you are in Moscow, a bit tired of the club scene or awful bands trying to sing American songs, and you want to see a more meaningful site, then you absolutely must go to Butovo. See what the rest of Moscow is like. Experience some gritty, non-Imperial Russian history, and try not to get too bitter.
Directions: Take the metro’s grey line south to the final station “Bul’var Dmitriya Donskogo/Бульвар Дмитрия Донского.” Exit the metro and find the stop for bus number 18. This bus will take you to the last stop on the route called “Butovsky Polygon/ Бутовксий полигон.” The bus departs the metro on the :25 of every hour and departs Butovo hourly on the :55. Alternative Directions: If you do not feel comfortable using Moscow busses, you can always hire a taxi from the city center. Ask your hotel/hostel to call a taxi service to take you and pick you up. The address of the site is “142720 Moscow Oblast, Leninsky Raion, Butovo, Yubileinaya St., 2.” The phone number for the site, just in case your taxi driver gets lost, is (495) 549-22-24 or (495) 549-22-22.
LIKE A LOCAL Moscow, autumn 2014
DO THIS DON’T: URBAN EXPLORING 27
Like a Local met up with two urban explorers who gave us some insight into the pretty much illegal practice Names have been changed to protect the not-so-innocent What exactly is ‘urban exploring’? A.: The simple answer: Russia is so big and there’s just a lot of places to go and see... Urban exploring really lets you connect to a place and imagine what it used to be. And the real forbidden places - you need to crawl, climb, jump... It’s extreme. It’s cool! K.: Urban exploring is just visiting abandoned buildings. Urban explorers are nortorious for being secretive about their finds. How do you find locations to explore? A.: Of course the internet! It’s the 21st century - you can find information and pictures so you can imagine the place you’ll find before you go. K.: Usually when I’m seraching for new locations I use the internet - sites like Urban3p. ru or Wikimapia.
What types of locations are you most likely to find? A.: I can say it’s always very interesting to visit military places. I went with friends to abandoned estates and parks... But it just couldn’t compare. In general, you can find military bases, hospitals, high rises - everything! K.: I think the most visited sites are usually abandoned industrial or military sites because of their size and because they’re generally more interesting. It seems that Russians really have a fascination with urban exploring. Why do you think that is? A.: I don’t think it’s just Russians. I think human nature is to explore, especially into dark and mysterious things. K.: I think it’s so popular in Russia because, most of all,
there are so many abandoned places and they’re pretty easy to find. You found a location and got inside. What happens if you get caught? A.: It all depends on the place. Usually the maximum is that a guard will ask you to leave. But if the guard is a dog... It’ll be a short conversation. K.: In most cases they’ll just kick you out of the abandoned building or they might even escort you to the exit. Sometimes they might even escort you to the nearest police station! It all depends on the location and how much they’re guarding it. If you were taking someone on an explorationfor the first time, where would you take them? A.: In Russia, we’ll go to an abandoned military base...
If it were anywhere, I’d go to Pripyat - a giant city of ghosts. K.: I’d probably take them to somewhere that I know there aren’t guards but is still cool so that they would continue to be interested in such ‘exploring’. Any final words of advice or wisdom for future urban explorers? A.: Go with a small group. There are many hidden places which might not be totally safe. Just look and don’t bother or touch anything - time does everything for you. K.: I’d wish them many places to explore, good luck, and most importantly: safe researching.
Do This Don’t
You’ve all seen the videos: a couple of teenagers laughing as the hang by one hand off of some of the most dizzyingly high buildings in the world. With a camera and a daredevil attitude – and definitely no harnesses or safety gear of any kind – these guys are the ultimate thrill seekers. Oh, and they’re usually Russian. They’re just the ultra-risky manifestations of many young Russians’ love of urban exploring.
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Pictured: the lobby of the Lotte Hotel Moscow. Find our in-depth review of the hotel’s Japanese restaurant Megu here. LIKE A LOCAL Moscow, autumn 2014
CITY STATS
city: MOSCOW population: 11.5 MILLION
Please Thank you Where is the toilett? How much ? Beer
country: RUSSIA known for: RED SQUARE
Pozhalusta Spasiba Gde tualet? Skolko stoit? Piva
Moscow, autumn 2014 LIKE A LOCAL