XY magazine June 2018
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Issue name
Summer Issue
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Contributors editor and creative director Lilly Cawley
Printer mixam
Digital https://cawleylilly.wixsite.com/xy-magazine Models
Henry cawley louis trenam
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In this issue
Style
Grooming
A selection of sustainable men’s clothing brands. 08 S/S key items 12
Ones to watch- male grooming brands. 39 Shaving with acne. 44
Lifestyle
Why you should be using Pinterest. 51 Places to eat in Nottingham.
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Style
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P a r t E c o W a r r i o r, Part Fashion Activist Designers focused on developing responsible clothing lines are the future of fashion. They are producing aesthetic garments as well as incorporating fair labour practices, reducing their textile waste and utilising the new technology for better manufacturing. The ranges have an increased focus on the outdoors and sustainability, while staying fashion forward. The next pages focus on these designers and their work.
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The Lost Explorer
The lost explorer is a brand that prides themselves on having a 360 degree sustainability approach ranging from textiles to manufacturing to their supply chain. The company was founded in 2015 by self proclaimed eco adventurer David De Rothschild. They are a lifestyle company working in partnership with nature, their products range from clothing to sustainable grooming products.
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Story MFG The brand Story MGF was born from a desire to be able to achieve sustainability without having to sacrifice aesthetics. Their mission is to create long lasting products, as they state that ‘the most sustainable way to live is to buy less’. Every single one of their fabrics and trims is fully biodegradable and animal free. Their tagline is ‘Slow Made’ and this highlights the celebration of the production processes. Story MFG have a strong emphasis on their non chemical process, as they use natural dyes.
They do recognise that in todays world it is difficult to achieve full sustainability status. Their approach to this however is their products such as their fabrics, that when they are discarded they biodegrade and enrich the soil. The brand is working towards finding ways to use materials such as land waste to turn them into something ueseful. 10 | S t y l e
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Patagonia
Patagonia is an outdoor brand that set the standards for the fashion industry and have been providing the world with environmentalism and sustainability promises. The brand hands over 1% of their total sales to environmental organizations and have even sued Donald Trump last year, for his U-turn decision on protecting national monuments in the US.
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Their mission is to build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis. XY m a g
Spring/Summer Key Items The slow evolution of key items this season, places a focus onto the new layering’s of stories that we see throughout tailoring and streetwear that create a new versatile wardrobe. This season is all about easy fit silhouettes and relaxed styles that update summer looks into practice and comfortable fits. Through some offbeat styling and subcultural influences, a youthful attitude transcends into fashion. Youth driven 1990’s skater and sports looks transition into wider markets while adopting a grown up attitude to them.
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The Cagoule Active wear has been integrating itself into fashion and everyday wear. The current importance of 1990’s street style this season sees the cagoule carried over into style. Materials that have a sheer effect offer a performance driven update to this old school style and will be a practical, packable item that can be easily worn as a jacket or a transseaonal layering item.Â
How to wear Over the head styles really play into the youth driven skater look, sporty colour blocking patterns and kangaroo patch pockets are a must to any cagoule. Elasticated toggles and heat sealed zips are an essential design details to this versitile trend. Pair this trend with black denim jeans and trainers for a casual look, or with baggy shorts for a active approach. 13 | S t y l e
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The Retro Polo Shirt This core item remains an integral piece for spring/summer 18, as retro influences remix this style for contemporary markets. Sports influences translate this look with a modern twist. Wider fits and three quarter sleeves make this item into a skater or streetwear look. By using tonal colour play with this shirt will end with a more sophisticated feel in your outfit.Â
How To Wear To elevate this key piece into a modern and contemporary style, wear with clean cut track bottoms and trainers for a updated active wear look. For a look to wear everyday, wear this shirt with a stylish neckerchief and a pair of clean black jeans.
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The trackpant has been deployed once again, the power of street style and sports wear to bring back this classic item. The key to this look is simple styling. This is important for modern looks that have the ability to transcend normal athletic looks. This youth driven item looks towards casual 1990’s silhouettes and retro sports brands with cult influencers such as Vetements. Bold sport stripes and colour blocking panels on the trousers, evoke a retro stadium style with easy fit waistbands and a sateen feel. This key item has potential to soar through the seasons, when styled correctly.
The trackpant
How to Wear To make sure that this key item does not go from modern and contemporary to dad chic, make sure to pair with a matching jacket or with a retro logo t-shirt. This look is versatile for the gym, streets and for travelling. 15 | S t y l e
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The Resort Shirt The key piece of a resort shirt is an obvious choice for a seasonal print and colour trend. 1950’s revere collar style are going to remain but are being taken over by 1990’s looks. Boxy cuts instantly turn this key piece into a smarter style, that will appeal to contemporary looks as well as grown up skate styles. Summer stripes patterns become an essential print update this season, shifting away from statement vacation florals.
How to wear Look to shirts with a bandana patterns for an urban skate style that pairs well for casual indigo looks. Cotton or linen resort shirts are an obvious choice during the summer for a ready to wear modern and more structured look. Alternatively wear with patterned shorts for a festival look. 16 | S t y l e
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The volume shorts An anti skinny movement is taking place this spring/summer. Volume continues that gather in strength with this key piece, this boxy wide leg style works best for a youthful and contemporary market. Taking from the obvious influence this season of 1990’s skate, the shorts are cut at the knee or reach mid length calves. Self tie fastenings on the shorts help to accentuate volume throughout the hip, this is an instant on trend look. This is a casual style that has a premium quality in summer lightweights such as cotton and twills.
How to wear The way to wear this summer key piece is to pair it with a simple tee in a muted tone or with a stand out jacket. The volume shorts look modern when paired with a statement cagoule from the previous trend. This look can be worn to the gym and then instantly on the streets when teamed up with a structured shirt. 17 | S t y l e
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Heavenly bodies Met Gala Looks
Chadwick Boseman in Atelier Versace
Every year fashion fiends around the world look forward to the Met Gala, an event that takes place every year with a different theme. This years theme was Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination. Typically all eyes are on the women of the event who turn up in over the top gowns and flamboyant outfits but this year there was shift of style over to the guys who came out in some pretty show stopping suits. To name a few Black Panther star Chadwick Boseman stole the night from self proclaimed pope Rihanna, in a three piece suit with a cape attached. Although there was many men who went with the typical suit attire there were a few who went all out.
For decades women have been made to embrace the red carpet. The men of this year are challenging this idea, the men of these types of shows serve as a sort of window dressing or the eye candy. The men that we remember on the red carpet is not for their looks but instead of what they have done, such as Jaden Smith carrying his own hair as his date. 18 | S t y l e
The Amigos in Atelier Versace
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Jared Leto came to the event dressed as a modern day Jesus, if Jesus worn head to toe Gucci. He came to the event with his dates Lana Del Ray and Gucci director Alessandro Michele. Men have been becoming more adventurous in their red carpet looks in the past few years and have realized that their fashion can be used as a statement and to add to your brand. Jared Leto is now famous for his style and his trade mark long hair, the men of the celebrity world are catching onto this idea that the Kardashians themselves have started; that you yourself are a brand.
Jared Leto in Gucci
Others such as Golver otherwise known as Childish Gambino and Trevor Noah took a slightly less ostentatious approach to their ensemble. Donald Glover wore a brown Gucci suit that had a 70’s inspired silhouette. The suit looks normal from the front but the back has a diamond incrusted illuminati symbol. This symbol is associated with conspiracy theories related to the catholic church. His new song This Is America shows that he is not shy from making a political statement. Donald Glover in Gucci
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The rise of the man bag Gone are the days of fitting all of your belongings into your pockets or your girlfriends bag, man bags or just bags are on the rise. With many options running from tiny ‘tech’ bags to backpacks, every hobby and need are catered for in the new season of bags this spring/summer. The details that are key include webbing details, clip fastenings, drawstring and waterproof zips. Printed materials such as canvas and leather, create a statement piece that is going to be coveted this season. Both streetwear and dressy, resort inspired looks are going to key. The next few pages are going to outline the key styles of bags that you are going to need this spring/summer. Featuring new shapes and styles from our favorite high street retailers and a few up market designers also. 20 | S t y l e
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The shopper A key shape this season for men has become the shopper. The style for this S/S18 style is the theme of a traveler bringing technical detailing and folk law patterns. The designer Lanvin as pictured uses webbing straps and elasticated cords to emphasis this style. Paul Smith are using 3D pockets and prominent zips to define this trend. Tonal and bold contrast colour details are also important.
The slouchy backpack This backpack is an essential for this season and is deliberately oversized so that it slouches and drapes. This style has grown into its roots from its uses in the outdoors and the best trims include; clip fastening straps and waterproof details. Mesh details and straps will be key in spring/summer for more key pieces to be clipped onto, such as keychains. 21 | S t y l e
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The crossbody bag The cross body bag remains a staple in the men’s wardrobe with an ongoing influence of street style in the S/ S18 trends. When used with premium leathers, the look can instantly be uplifted and teamed up with tailoring for a smarter look. Darker shades are important as well as webbed trimming, self-fabric belts and textured skins. Metal hardware is always to be silver.
The Pouch To compliment the new resort style looks, pair with a flat leather pouch. This is a very simple item that can be worn in shades of black and navy or for the more adventurous, in patterned trims or prints with appliqued designs. Wrist straps are common and are a practical addition to the pouch. 22 | S t y l e
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What is out there? Splurge
Louis Vuitton P o u c h £355
MCM cross b o d y £475
K e n z o b a c kp a c k £220
Gucci shopper £625
Spend
Comme de garcons £140
Zara cross b o d y £29.99
Z a r a b a c kP a c k £49.99
Zara shopper £15.99
Save
Zara Clutch £25.99
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Asos cross b o d y £12
A s o s b a c kp a c k £25
Asos s h o p p e r £6
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Get the look Joey London Joey London, an Instagramer and a blogger, describes himself as a London creator. He has over 50 thousand followers on Instagram and posts mostly styled photos. On his blog he posts about fashion, travel, health and fitness and about food. He also has a YouTube account where he posts vlogs and look books. To recreate this look all that is needed is a pair of white trainers, black joggers, a black t-shirt and a denim jacket. The other key features are the suitcase and glasses that make this a perfect travel outfit.Â
Key items
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Outfit details
T o p -Alexander Mcqueen £150.00 J a c k e t- Zara £60.00 J e a n s - Topman £40.00 H a t - Dsquared £110.00 27 | S t y l e
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Get the look Jim Chapman Jim Chapman is a YouTuber, Jim Chapman Presenter, writer, GQ contributing editor, occasional model, all according to his Instagram account. He has a humble 2.2 million followers on Instagram and 2.4 million subscribers on YouTube. He posts both vlogs and fashion related videos on his YouTube account, with videos such as how to recreate high end outfits on a high street budget. To recreate this look all is needed is; clean black trainers, black trousers, a white tee and a silky patterned shirts over the top.
Key items
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Outfit details
S h i r t- River Island £28.00 j e a n s- Topman £40.00 S h o e s- comme de garcons £125.00
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Spring/Summer 2018 trends
Space and time is the first trend for this season. This particular trend is abut repurposing the past in order to reimagine the future. new codes and methods of dressing are starting to emerge, these are particularly ideal for a transitional spring wardrobe. To drive this look in spring is all abut utility, ease and comfort. 30 | S t y l e
The second trend is Tribe. This trend comes from spring travel themes to the festivals looks of the youth, all guided by global influences. Menswear is now embracing new ideas and is starting to take inspiration from tribes from all around the world, whether digital subcultures or artisan groups. XY m a g
Tropic touch is the third trend. By reimagining beach and summer stories with a hyperreal twist. This trend is inspired by an enhanced relationship with nature. To reflect a longing for paradise in this trend, silky shirts and all over prints are key. 31 | S t y l e
Digital Rave is the final trend for spring/summer. This trend approches the subect of outh as more of a state of mind rather than an age. Shared lifestyles and values are transcendign through generations and resulting in this trend. XY m a g
Trend One Space and time There are a couple of clothing stores who have undertaken this trend in their collections, Arket and Boohoo to name a few. For a more muted version of this trend stick with colours such as khaki, brown and grey. Denim or bomber jackets are a great way to elevate this look and look more futuristic. Sticking with the same colour scheme throughout your outfit makes for a more futuristic look. Technology and fashion are emerging in this look, with materials inspired by planetary surfaces and space explorations.
Key items
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Trend two- Tribe Boohoo are great for this trend, they have lots of patterned shirts and even two pieces. This trend features micro patterns ad explores new ideas for tailoring. Masculine dressing is redefined in this trend through global influences. Local and global influences have connected trends and fashion throughout the world, with handcrafted elements making their way into this trend. Embellishment adds a sense of luxury to this trend, making for a new eclectic look in menswear is repeated patterns.
Key items
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Trend three tropic touch Tropical touches and bolder colours add a casual twist to the men’s wear to work wardrobe. Metallic and sheen fabrics give off a hyperreal quality. Swimwear takes on a psychotropic feel with bright colours and patterns. Sporty mesh adds playfulness and offers breathability, a mirage resort aesthetic emerges in this trend. Graphics and patterns in palm leaf and tropical prints get updated in this trend with a more extreme quality. Glossy satins and prints in swimwear remind us of 1990’s clubwear and reflect on the way we wear synthetic materials.
Key items
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Trend four Digital rave This trend places heavy importance on styling and individuality. Streetwear brands are expanding to older and more mature demographic than the typical teen, the generation gap is dissolving. Personal expression and identity is informing this trend. Unexpected and off the wall combinations work well with this trend. Essential jerseys and knitwear is updated with brighter colours and graphic/ print tees are essential for back to school. Social media and logos give tees a more youthful and rebellious edge. Digital rave is the new nostalgia. Key items
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grooming
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Ones to watch Male grooming- Scrubd
This new luxury grooming and skincare brand was created after the founder was unable to find an all natural soap bar speciaclly for men. They have now expanded thier comapny into making sure that men fee great in their skin. Products are free from nasty chmeicals such as microbeads and parabens, ingredients are scoured using sustainable methods and with respect to the planet. This brand do it right by being cruelty free and vegan. Their products include skincare ranges for endergising and anti aging, soaps and even gift boxes. 37 | g r o o m i n g
What makes this brand different? One; they are crafted especially for the unique demands of men’s skin types. Two; they source effective and natural vitamins and oils for their products. Three; they are made in England using old artisan methods.
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Ones to watch male grooming- Hommer
This particular brand also specialize in creating products that celebrate tattoos. Their sun cream is specially formulated to protect tattooed skin. Their products range from beard oils, beard shampoo, pomade, sun cream to scented candles. with products prices ranging from £11 to £25. Their beard oils are infused with hemp oil, barbar fig and argan that will protect the skin. Enhanced with the sophisticated signature scent.
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Hommer is a skincare range for men whose origins are in Greece. The brand is all about beards, and providing men with a collection f products that are dedicated to cleansing, moisturizing and protecting men’s skin and beards. The line is inspired by Greek mythology and instilled with their unique scents of bitter chocolate and woods for a masculine perfume. Their new shaving products are infused with anti ageing formula to provide two in one skincare.
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ones to watch male grooming- Grüum This brand is designed to offer an alternative to the overpriced and underwhelming high street grooming brands. Gruum is a Scandinavian inspired brand that is functional and quality driven. They adopt a minimalist aesthetic, the line is spilt up into three areas; beard, cleanse and shave. There are only three products in each so that they all serve a purpose.
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The lightbulb moment for the brand started with a walk down a supermarket beauty aisle. With too many women’s skincare and not enough men’s, they thought why is everything for women pink and for men grey. They sell razors, beard wash and wax, body scrubs and a three piece skincare set. Their razors are completely customizable down to the coloured handle, their cleanser is infused with eucalyptus and witch hazel to unclog pores. By building up your products you can tailor your own subscription box. Prices from £6. XY m a g
ones to wat ch male grooming-House 99
Beckham explains that grooming is not just about how you look but also how you feel. To him it is being comfortable, trying new things and trying to shape your next look. This line is tailored to millennials problems and needs, with a body moisturizer with tattoos and care in mind. A beard and hair pomade have also been thrown into the mix. The line has been picked up by Harvey Nichols and is available to buy online and instore now. Prices start from around £10. 40 | g r o o m i n g
Former footballer turned model David Beckham has launched a new skincare range in partnership with L’ Oreal. This collection merges the British barber shop subculture with hair and skin expertise. House 99 was created with millennials in mind and to give inspiration as well as the right products to men. Beckham has played an active role in this partnership so expect the range to be innovate and a leader in men’s grooming products. The name comes from his desire to create a community for men’s grooming, and the year that he married it wife and son was born.
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Top 4 products
Smooth back shaping pomade £15.00
Spruce up toning lotion £18.00
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Bold statement tattoo body moisturizer S P F 30 £22.00
Softer touch beard oil £22.00
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Shaving with acne
What will come in handy A fresh towel or flannel each time you shave, will help to avoid the spreading of bacteria. A smoothing shaving gel, avoid any shaving gel that has alcohol in it. Facial toner will come in handy post shave to close up pores. Finally moisturiser will make sure your skin is smooth and hydrated.
What to avoid Shaving can be a nightmare when dealing with acne. Avoid using a shaving brush as this causes unwanted bacteria to spread around your face. Aftershave contains high levels of alcohol which can dry out your skin. Soap can also dry out skin, a gentle face wash is best.
Try to avoid whiteheads whilst shaving. It is best to deal with thsoe before having a shave, but make sure to pop them correctly as they can encourgae bacteria and scaring.
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Tips for the best shave 1. Lots of shaving gel A soothing shaing gel is essential for the best shave. The aim is to create a protective barrier between your skin and the razor. Make sure to wash your hands throughly afterwards. 2. Go with the grain, not against While shavign make sure you go along with the grain. Following your hair direction will make sure that it will not irritate the skin. 3. Open your pores Open pores and soft facial hair is best before a shave, a hot shower or even a hot towel treatment will work wonders.
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Mask it up The best face masks for men Aesop
Asos
Parsley seed cleansing masque £30.00 This mask has a lightweight formula with a blend of antioxidants and skin softening ingredients such as aloe vera.
The body shop
Japanses matcha tea mask £17.00 This mask is infused with matcha green tea and aloe vera that helps remove pollutants and impurities in the skin. A bonus this is 100% vegan. 44 | g r o o m i n g
Barber pro face putty peel off mask £4.95 This masks aim is to refine pores and reduce the appearance of black heads, for a brighter complexion.
L ’O r e a l
Pure clay glow mask £7.99 This particular mask is enriched with red algae extract which is known for its brightening properties. Small apricot seeds gently exfoliate dull and tired skin. XY m a g
Moisturisers for men Moisturiser is now the second most popular skin care product for men, with face wash leading th pack. But 51% of men are still not using the product. With the amount of skincre products on the igh street it is hard to understand what is nessicary and what is not, especially when the mens section is a hell of a lot smaller than the womens.
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4 reasons you should be using moisuriser 1. Because it protects your skin. when you wash your face it breaks down your skins natural protective barrier, using a moisturizer will help to restore the barrier. 2. It can leave you looking better and healthier When your not using moisturizer your skin is dehydrated and dull. Moisturizer helps to brighten your complexion and reduce the appearance of dark circles. 3. It can help you to age better Regular moisturizing can help with the aging process, as dry skin is more prone to wrinkles. 4. It repairs the damage from shaving Shaving puts a lot of stress on the skin, by using a moisturizer it can help to battle the dryness and irritation post shave. XY m a g
The best products from lush Lush is a labyrinth full of natural and vegan skincare products. It can be difficult to know what to buy and what will work for you. Some people say they smell nice, some don’t think that they do anything and others call them the holy grail of skincare products.
Mask Of Magnanimity £12.50 A facemask that smells like peppermint what more could you want! This mask will draw out any impurities and help to maintain clear skin.
Ultrabland cleanser £8.25 This cleanser is simple to use and effective. Simply spread it around your face and wipe off with a hot cloth.
Tea tree toner tab £1.00 This is a small but mighty product. To use simply add to hot, steamy water and hold your face above the water allowing the steam to clear your pores. 46 | g r o o m i n g
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lifestyle
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Why should be using pinterst If we’re being honest with each other Pinterest gets a bad rap, its known for being a beacon for middle aged women looking for recipes. But do not judge it that quickly. Pinterest is the one tool that you need to organize your outfits, travel ideas and everything in between. I’m here to tell you the main reasons why you should be using this site.
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1. Other men do use it You may not want to use this social media site because it is seen as girly, but there has been an increase of 72% of men using Pinterest. 2. Its like Instagram but better this is still a visual social media site, you can save all of your ideas. I hate to break it to you but men have short attention spans. 3. You can buy things like Instagram you can click on the buy button and it will take you straight to that garments website. XY m a g
Mood boarding 101 So you’re probably thinking what is a mood board and why do I care? well a mood board is a collection of images put together to tell a story or your vision. To answer your second question, a mood board is a way to visually communicate your idea, whether you use it for your style or even for your job. They help you to understand what your vision is, what you want your style to look like and even what colour scheme you want to wear.
There are many different ways to mood board. Pinterest is a great social media tool to create simple mood boards. But if you want a more aesthetically pleasing board, try these two ideas on for size. A classic mood board is a cut and stick version, simple and easy to do. 50 | l i f e s t y l e
Just cut out images that you like from magazines or printed off line and stick them on a board. A bonus tip add colour to your boards to help with direction. The other way is to use apps such as Adobe Spark or even Photoshop where the professionals create their magic.
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What to put in your mood board 1. Colours An excellent source of inspiration for your style is; colours. They can change depending on what season we are in. By adding them to your board you can help focus on the seasons. Look for colours that you wear the most. 2. Style icons By adding these to the board helps you inspire to be something and to have a vision of what you want to look like. 3. Different style option By having a mixture of different outfits, gives you more options and more choice when it comes down to picking your outfit. 4. Accessories Just because your a man doesn’t mean that you cant accessorize. 5. Hair options Your hairstyle can make or break your outfit. 51 | l i f e s t y l e
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PLaces to eat The best resuarants in Nottingham Oscar and Rosies
This restaurant is a staple on the diet of those who live in Nottingham, claimed as the best pizza ever. The menu consist of pizza, such as magerhitas, goats cheese and chicken wah wah. Prices start from £7 for lunch and £14 for a 14 inch. The restaurant is on Stoney Street. A n n i e ’s b u r g e r shack
Another staple is annies burger shcak. The beauty of this restaurant is that any of the burgers or hot dogs can be made; meaty. veggie or vegan. The sweet potato fries are to die for. Prices start from £6.90. Nottingham street food club This collection of food chains are situated in the Intu Victoria centre. It is home to the secret burger club, taste of Korea and smoqued. Whats even better is that thye are all independent stalls. 52 | l i f e s t y l e
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Summer desistantionsCroatia If you’re looking for a destination that has sun, beaches, rich culture and sights to see. Look no further than; Croatia. This summer destination is on the rise and is slowly becoming the it place to be. There is lots to do in Croatia; kayaking in the blue caves, lounge on the many beaches that they have to offer and visit the Mjlet national park. There are a couple of islands to hop in Croatia such as Bisevo Island, Vis, Ravnik or Havar. If island hopping isn’t your style mainland Croatia is beautiful, Split and Dubrovnik
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This scene may look familiar as it from the popular tv show Game of thrones. Most of the Kings landing scenes were filmed in this lovely country. You can walk the city walls of Pile gate but keep an eye out for Cersei. Fort Lovrijenac or otherwise known as the Red Keep, the tour of the fort costs about £3.50. You can even take a walking tour of Dubrovnik that points out the locations for you XY m a g
What to pack
Good for nothing trainers from Asos £65.00, good for walking around all day
All saints black denim jacket £118.00, for those colder nights
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GoPro hero £199.99 Starter action camera perfect for beginners
Forest green Kanken backpack £80.00 For carying your camera and snacks. XY m a g
Summer destinationsLisbon
The top 7 attractions 1. The Jeronimos monastery, which is one of Portugal’s most impressive historical places. 2. Sao Jorge Castle, Lisbon’s oldest castle 4. National pantheon this offers breathtaking views 5. Sao Vicente De Fora church, one of Lisbon’s most extraordinary churches. 6. Sintra beach, it has protected natural areas and wild beaches 7. Santa Justa Elevator, the perfect place for an Instagram photo. 56 | l i f e s t y l e
Lisbon is the new Barcelona this year. It is an all rounder place to be this summer, with beaches, great food and things to do. The older district of this destination is a wonder, think lots of graffiti and coffee shops. Like San Francisco, Lisbon is famous for their trams which will cost you as little as €3.
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What to pack
Dsquared trunks £125.00 For those days by the beach Kenzo pool sliders £85.00 Perfect for lounging around the pool or walking to the beach
Ray ban sunglasses £136.00 The poloarised lenses make this on trend
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Topman floral shirt £30.00 For walking around the city at ngiht XY m a g
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Hover for access to the App
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