LDN! by Lily Marpaung

LDN! JANUARY 2012 Issue #1

THE SNUGGLY ISSUE 1

LDN!contents fall/winter 2012

Contents

Editor’s Letter

The List

The Look: The Furry Issue It’s the moment to cover up in a glamorous way

Ask LDN!

The Londoner: A Glitter Party

LDN! Loves: Velvet , Fair Isle

The Talk: Like A Labour Of Love

Major Fashion: For The Love of Layer

The Sign: 10 Signs You’re A Londoner

A talk with Ashish, the King of Sequins

New trends you’ll love for winter

What’s so special about your knitwear? Let’s find out

This is the way to keep you warm this season

Cover Editor Lily Marpaung Photographer Mate Dobray Art Director Andrea Marpaung Art Designer Aninda Purnamasari, Kagumi Pararsya Contributor Haiyun Xu (model), Violet Zheng (makeup artist) Follow us @LDNmagazine

Photograph Mate Dobray. Fashion Lily Marpaung. Makeup and Hairdo Violet Zheng. Model Haiyun Xu. Haiyun wears chunky sweater and snood, both by Primark; tweed skirt from Wimbledon Carboot Sale; sunglasses by Tom Ford.

Editor's

Letter Hello there! Welcome to the first issue of LDN! magazine. A few months ago I moved in to London from Indonesia to start a new journey of my life. So you did to? Congratulations, very proud of you. Well, immigrating to London is an easy one but settling down is another different story. Trust me on this. In an ideal world every girl would stand together and help each other. And LDN! is here to give you just that. Here in LDN! you can find everything you need to survive your days as a new Londoner. I know in Asia we’re used to dress very light. But here layering is a must to beat the cold weather. I teamed up with the upcoming fashion photographer, Mate Dobray, to create chic ideas for you on our fashion story on page 18. What a better way to get inspired rather than talking to an Asian-cumLondoner? Ashish, the Sequin King, talked to LDN! about his life and exciting new collections on page 10. Also LDN! has gathered a list of everything-cool that you should try in London from amazing manicure salon to bubble tea (page 5). Fur and knitwear have always been two go-to trends for winter. Read The Furry Issue (page 8) to get an insight on the plush material. Then go to page 14 to read some real life experience from people and their personal moments with knitwear. Now embrace the beauty of London and don’t forget to go to page 26 and check out the signs whether you’ve turned into a real Londoner. I believe what Lily Allen has said,” You might laugh, you might frown. Walkin’ around London town. Sun is in the sky. Oh why, oh why would I wanna be anywhere else?”

Lily Marpaung, Editor

The List Cosy Choice

This winter, keep your tushy all warm up with the colourful coats from ASOS. The British label, has a wide selection stylish jackets to choose from. Whether it’s trench, 60s style or boyfriend, you can find the perfect piece to fight the cold and windy London. Plus ASOS has a Petite Style and come from size 6, so you don’t have to worry you won’t find anything to fit your petite figure (asos.com; @ASOS).

The Iron Lady

In this male-dominated world, it is relieving to have such movie that can be a voice for all the ultra-independent women out there. Portrayed brilliantly by 16-times Oscar nominated American actress - Meryl Streep, the story of first (and thus far, only) female Prime Minister of United Kingdom, Margaret Thatcher is going to be a gem on your January.

The List

Bubble Up

Have been missing your daily dose of the quirky bubble tea snack drink back home? Fret no more, because you can find a superb substitution here in the very heart of London. At Bubbleology, you can indulge yourself with a glass of Taiwanese bubble tea with a 'base' of green tea, black/red tea or white tea - all rich with antioxidants. With tons of different kind of flavour mix, there’s no reason for you not to come by to their Soho cafe/lab every day. Our favourite flavour? Hot Cocoa with coffee jelly, perfect for a warm dessert after dinner (49 Rupert St., Soho, London W1D 7PF; @bubbleology_UK).

Vintage

In London, there’s one lifestyle that you have to try. The vintage lifestyle. For a one-of-a-kind look at a bargain price, go to East End Thrift Shop at Stepney. It’s like going to someone else’s garage with hand-me-downs clothes neatly aligned. With dresses starting from £15 and accessories from £3, surely you can fill the gap in your wardrobe without breaking the bank (Unit 1A, Waterman's Building, Assembly Passage, London E1 4UT; @ assemblythrift).

Moist and Yummy

Winter is coming sooner than later so you better prepare your skin for some harsh dry weather. We love this Stila Tinted Color Moisturizer which will hydrate, perfect and protect your precious skin and gives you that flawless finish you’ve been dreaming for. Plus it is enriched with SPF 20 that will set you free from any sun damage (beautybay.com).

Wah-wah Nails

Artwork on our nails? Yes, please! Go to WAH – the hipster East London nail salon and expect to come out as a different person. Of course, with uber cool manicure like Aztec print, tartan and even bloodshot eyeball image to show off. Price starts from £25. (420 Kingsland Rd., Dalston, London E8 4AA; @wahnails).

Domestic Goddess

Here’s an idea: try work your way around the kitchen and safe money from buying take-outs. And no, it’s not going to be a nightmare if you go to biggirlssmallkitchen.com for a guide. The smart website is dedicated to 20-something girls who are just starting to learn to cook. With accessible recipes, entertaining tips, and kitchen strategies you are guaranteed to be a cooking diva in no time (@BGSK).

You go out every morning and grab a morning latte. It costs only £2.95 so logically, it’s harmless. Think again, because we do the math for you for 6 month of the daily-pick-me-up Latte.

Do The Math

£2.95 x 30 x 6 = £531 Anya Hindmarch Nevis Raw Tote (£530) 7

The Look

TheFurry Issue

Get on board with this season’s taste for texture and luxury with fur. Words by Lily Marpaung

Burberry Prorsum

Being a house famed for their furs, it’s no surprise that Fendi produced such covetable and stunning collection this season. The furs, as ever, were especially inventive, from the insouciant combinations of sable, chinchilla, fox, and Mongolian lamb —in a single coat to make altogether a new beast. Their fans were pampered with not only jackets, but also tufted bibs, scarves and vest in jaw-dropping effects. Another brand that has jumped into the furry wagon is Burberry Prorsum. The British heritage label created a bubble mink jacket in black that could easily be a part of wardrobe of a stylish Tsarina. Not to forget, the heavenly white chunky sweater with fur puffs on the sleeves, which is notably, will be on top of our wish list. Another upcoming furry house is the chic The Row. Its midi fur gillet in natural colour was one of the best fur that graced the runway.

Michael Kors

Sonia Rykiel

Prabal Gurung

The Row

Plush furs are nothing new for fashion followers—a girl’s got to stay warm, doesn’t she? This chubby material has always been the eponymous sign of lavishness and glamour. But fur hasn’t been on the spotlight anymore for these past few years because of the controversy it has drawn. But now looking like a yeti is chic again, thanks to Karl Lagerfeld who launched gigantic coats and frizzy Chewbacca boots for Chanel last Fall 2010 –all claimed to be 100% faux fur. This season the extravagance fabric is surely making a big come back.

Emanuel Ungaro

Gucci

Of course now you’re wondering about those campaigns that go up against furs. As a mere mortal, hiring a bodyguard service to protect yourself from angry animal right activists like Anna Wintour is not an option. Plus with a little detail that real fur bears a price tag that is clearly outside our clothing budget, owning a fur coat seems to be an impossible dream to reach. Don’t fret now! With the severe struggle to protect animals, an alternative faux fur has found its place in fashion. For once, a genuine one is no longer in vogue and fake furs from high-street labels are the perfectly acceptable options for young stylish ladies out there. Who says you can’t teach an old fur new tricks?

FENDI

If natural palette is not your cup of tea and want something out-of-the-box, you should try fur in bright jewel tones. Gucci, obviously the leader of colourful fur pack, launched gorgeously coats in Technicolor dream. Take the burnt-yellow coat with Mongolian lamb trim worn with a red blouse and a burgundy bordeaux hat. Again, Frida Gianini took us back to the 70s and its glamour sense. On the other hand, the wonder boy from Nepal – Prabal Gurung, decided to take a more subtle approach with colour by introducing furs in pastel. He launched a brilliant ombre coat in purple and a baby pink jacket so soft and fluffy it looked like cotton-candy floss. Also showed a rainbow of shades was Sonia Rykel with yummy orange, pink and yellow fur scarves over equally exuberantly colored clothes.

Ask LDN! Come to us, all of you who are dealing with fashion dilemmas, and we will give you the way out.

Necklace, Forever 21, £12

Necklace, Warehouse, £20

’m starting to think of what I want to wear to the holiday parties, but I’m so not a sequin girl. How can I stand out minus the sequins?

s a petite girl, I find it hard to find a midi skirt that fits my figure. But I don’t want to be left out from this hot trend. Please help me find the perfect skirt! —Fei Yun

—Nadia You can up you holiday party game with standout accessories. A statement necklace is a great way to spice up a basic silk shell top or your trusted LBD. Then again, it’s also way more cost effective to get a new necklace to dress up items you already have in your closet, rather than purchasing an entire new outfit. Go with something sparkly with little rhinestone beauties to make sure your look feel more festive.

Sportmax Sportmax

oming winter, I want to keep myself warm without looking bulky. Any tips to keep my ensemble sleek? —Louisa While winter weather usually calls for bulking up, there’s one sure-fire way to keep your look slim this season: add a sleek bottom, like pencil skirt or streamline pants. The classic shape will keep you away from looking like a giant when you’re wrapping yourself with a stylish chunky knits and boxy coats. Plus with fresh new options in bold hues, fun prints, and rich textures, you’ll want to wear these babies well after you leave the office. Take a look at these chic looks from Sportmax.

Midi skirt, ASOS, £35

First, you need to do your homework and research on brands that have a petite section on their collection. Next, ASOS and Dorothy Perkins are good examples. LDN! loves this jacquard midi skirt from ASOS. The leopard print is very versatile, you can dress it up or down easily. Plus, ASOS Petite midi skirts are 10cm shorter than regular ones. What more can you ask?

ondon could be very windy with a lot of chances of drizzle on winter. What is the most stylish hat I should be investing on? —Putri Behold, LDN!’s favourite hat trend: the turban. This ubiquitous headpiece does not only serve as an ear-warmer but also a daring accessory. Choose knitted turban as it looks laid back and more casual for day. But for night, just pin a rhinestone brooch and you’re ready to rock in style.. Cotton turban, ASOS, £12

The Londoner

A Glittery Party London based young designer, Ashish, shares his gleaming story on conquering the fashion scene and his newest collection - one sequin at a time. Words by LILY MARPAUNG

To think that it all started with a pair of Dorothy-inspired ruby red glitter slippers at his graduation show, Ashish has established his name as the King of Sequins. Despite the fact that he is the epitome of sequins and all things that shine, the immediate impression that hit me was how pleasant and down to earth he seemed. I found Ashish to be very approachable with a clever sense of humour. He showed up for the interview in a navy sweater and khaki chinos looking very laid back. Born in Delhi, Ashish found his love for fashion through his very chic mother. He would devour the glossy pages of Vogue and dream of living in a European country. Fashion was a fantasy for him, an escape route from his childhood in India. Having been exposed all his life to a Western lifestyle, Ashish says, “I don’t have the intention to start an Indianinspired collection.” It’s not that he didn’t love his own heritage, but he found it very dull and stereotypical for an Indianborn designer to focus on Indian culture. “I don’t feel the need to reference my heritage in an explicit manner. For me, it’s not challenging enough,” he adds.

After finishing his Masters at London prestigious Central Saint Martins (CSM) in 2000, with high hope he went to Paris armed with his portfolio to find a job. However, fate took its toll and his plan abruptly fell through when at the Gare du Nord station his portfolio got stolen. This horrific episode didn’t stop Ashish’s dream to become a designer. “I’m glad it happened. Because I think if it hadn’t happened I probably ended up designing t-shirts for a very big brand and hating every minute of it.” After the trauma caused by the incident, he flew back to India and worked on a capsule collection bought by a respected fashion editor that was spotted by the buyer for Browns Focus, a hip and tremendously well-edited London boutique, which subsequently bought his entire collection. And the rest is history. As a fixture at London Fashion Week since 2001, for his Spring/Summer 2012 collection Ashish turned the runway into a dreamy garden. Employing a lighter and more feminine take on the previous season’s tough, hard and rebellious aesthetic, he launched a series of bold floral dresses - of course adorned with his trademark sparkling sequins, which

amazingly managed to look very girlie but still grungy at the same time. The inspiration? It was the old Kenzo publication shots from the 70s and 80s. For a first-timer on floral, Ashish did an amazing job twisting the typical spring motif and turned it into these very playful and romantic ensembles. Styled with lacedup boots that had daisies sprouting from the high tops, messy hair and very dark plum lips, Ashish has set out a whole new idea for girls who used to fight shy of feminine flower patterns. I fell in love instantly with the yellow sun flowers teamed with stripes on shift dresses, jackets covered with poppies and delicates daisies that decorated sexy vests. And not to forget, an oversized, grey, jersey jumper with its Van Gogh-inspired vase of roses, which will no doubt be a summer wardrobe must-have. In Ashish hands, floral is the new cool thing. When asked what the story was behind his love for sequins, Ashish says that it was because he did a collection based on Dorothy in Wizard of Oz and her red ruby slippers for his CSM graduate show. In it he used seven-inch heels dipped in glitter; and subsequently found a fascination towards sequins and glittery embellishments. To work with sequins in a different context, it was his general idea all about. “I was inspired by American sport wear which is both very comfortable and easy to put on. If someone is going to wear sequins, it should be as relaxed as a t-shirt.” Ashish invented the concept that by wearing his clothes, a girl could dress casually but still look extraordinary. The idea was that a girl can finally put an end to the constant worry of being underdressed or overdressed for any occasion by donning such a versatile look, which is a very clever notion. Ashish’s signature has always been sequins – a material that to many designers would be difficult to reinvent each season but he manages to do it smoothly, through his imagination and technique. With Ashish’s collection, a girl can rest assured that she’s in good hands.

My dream was to live in Paris and work for a big fashion house. And my label is the closest thing to that.

Faith PalomaPaloma Faith

“My girl is quite the cool and fun girl who doesn’t take things very seriously,” as he described the kind of women who would wear his designs. With a long list of celebrity who loves him - from Maddona, Debbie Harry, Jerry Hall, Paloma Faith, Rihanna, Katy Perry and Florence Welch – to his growing international success, we can all be certain that Ashish is going to be around for a very long time and continues to make our fashion moments sparkle with his endearing sequins.

Katy Perry Katy Perry

One interesting fact on Ashish’s designs is that he put a lot of attention into the clothes manufacture to make sure that every detail is applied perfectly. Every single remarkable element on his dress is done by hand. “I’m glad that my collection can’t be done by a machine. There’s something special about 15 men working on a dress for a week then the dress is worn by a woman. It’s poetic,” he said it proudly. It is also amusing to learn that Ashish doesn’t print any guidelines on his garment for the complex patterns. All the motifs come from the carefully-positioned sequins that all are sewn by hand. And in this fast-fashion world, his production methods are both rare and very special.

us d onscio Body c 50 £ Oasis,

ress,

Obi belt, ASOS, £20

Bow tie, ASOS, £12

Boxy top, Topshop, £ 3

oes, Flat sh p, £28 o h s Top

rm Platfo l, sanda p, o h s p To £58

Chain bag, Topshop, £25

LDN! LOVE S 12

hop, £

Full skir

t, River

Island, £

, Tops

Set of bangle, Topshop, £20

dress Skater

VELVET

Luxe is the way this winter with velvet in rich jewel colours.

Pumps, ASOS, £45

Headband, Miss Selfridge, £10

It’s time to revisit your childhood with fais isle knit.

Hat, Dorothy Perkins, £14

Knee

Hodded cardigan, H&M, £44.99

-high

s, T sock

FAIR ISLE

op, opsh

£8

Tunic dress, Uniqlo, £44.99

Boots, Urban Outfitters, £25

LDN! LOVE S

Scarf, Accessorize, £19

Satchel bag, Boohoo, £15

Leggings, River Island, £3

Skirt, Miss Selfridge, £27

Cardigan, Uniqlo, £29.99

Gloves, ASOS, £12

Jumper, Topshop, £38 13

Missoni

The Talk

We Say, It's A

Labour

Love Missoni made a household name out of it then Isabel Marant convinced us to go chunkier and Proenza Schouler took us to the exotic land of Native American. We all have to agree, knitwear is back on track. But sometimes it could mean so much more than just a stylish cover up. Words by Lily Marpaung

e’re here not to talk about those stylish knitwear, no way. In fact, we’re trying to go deeper and look beyond the neon threads that graced the runway and have captured fashion people’s attention all over the world. Have to admit, there is something special about knitwear that always gives us that swoon-moment. The lush yarn that feels soft and warm, the threads that intertwine creating exciting colourful patterns and the cosy feeling you have after putting it on. For some people, knitwear is not just a perfect garment to get them through the harsh winter weather. Believe us when we say this, a particular knitwear could bear an exceptional value that the owner would cherish forever. 15

The Talk Diksha for example, has never met her grandmother. But lucky her, before she was born, Diksha’s grandmother had knitted a light green blanket for her. “I just love my knitted blanket from my grandmother. It perhaps sounds corny but somehow the blanket feels warmer than any other shrugs I’ve ever had.” When she moved to London from Mumbay, Diksha brought that special blanket with her and now she’s using it whenever she’s lounging at the sofa. She also says that the blanket has become a keepsake and a reminder of her grandmother’s affection for her.

Knitwear is the quintessence of warmth. And every thread bears a story. The sensation that occurs when you’re wearing it is a lot like being loved and secure. But not every girl has a crafty mother or grandmother. Andrea says her mother is not the domestic type so hand-knitted pieces are not something she grew up with. So one of Andrea’s most precious possessions is her favourite teddy bear from her childhood wearing her old knitted-jumper she used to wear when she was a baby. “Yes, I took my old teddy bear when I packed up to go to London because I need a reminder of how lovely my home is.” Also she adds that looking at that mini sweater brings her up to those special memories she had with her family back home. “It warms my heart on London cold nights and reminds me to come back home to my country some day.” Aiko shares a different story. “It’s very common for us Japanese to knit a handmade scarf for our crush on Valentine’s Day. As embarrassing as it might seem, I keep a cable-knit scarf that I didn’t have the guts to give to this one boy in high school. Probably as a symbol of the one that got away. Or maybe just a silly token of my teenage days that always makes me smile every time I see it.” While we’re in the boyfriend department, Mitha says that she loves to sleep in his boyfriend’s old merino wool sweater. “He gave it to me just before I went to London to pursue my study.” As an Indonesian student, Mitha found it hard to cope with London funny weather. “I came from a tropical country where I can have sunshine all year long. But England is obviously not a warm place. My boyfriend’s sweater is a perfect cover up for me and I really like that sweater; it’s big, roomy and it’s like that he’s hugging me from afar through it.” They say that holding on to a memento from the past could be a sign of a trouble to move-on. Maybe it is, or maybe it’s only a matter of when you’re looking back it doesn’t mean that you’re not keep moving forward. After all, knitwear is not just a garment or a trend that will be around for a long time. It’s also a memory, a symbol from someone who’s thinking about you. And what’s not to love about that? 16

The Best Of The Pack With marvellous knitwear popping up at every label, we pick out four that you need to have.

1. Aztec Coat-cardigan This item is not just spot on trend with the Aztec print. But also a perfect layer under your coat on those gloomy days. Miss Selfridge, £55.00

2. Block Graphic Jumper Light up your winter with this graphic sweater. When you can’t have sunshine, better provide your own sun by wearing yellow.

Topshop, £44.00

3. Argyle Tunic Pair this top with knitted leggings and knee-high biker boots and you’re all set. The touch of red gives the tunic a bit extra fire. Mango, £44.90

4. Baseball Chunky Cardigan Be sporty-chic this season with a knitted baseball cardigan. To make sure you don’t throw the ball over the park, wear it with something feminine like a printed skirt.

Topshop, £42.00

For The

Love

of Layer The art of layering is not hard to master. Mixing up textures, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the key. Fashion Lily Marpaung Photographs Mate Dobray

Fur gillet by Jay Jays. Second-hand cotton jumper. Full skirt by Zara. Knitted gloves by Cotton On. Cowboy boots by Vera Gomma. Necklace by Sou Brette.

Cotton jumper by Zara Second-hand wool cardigan. Belt by Primark. Maxi skirt by Forever 21. Cowboy boots by Vera Gomma. (Foto kasih bingkai putih 2cm)

Fur jacket by ASOS. Wool jumper by Sportscraft. Knitted skirt by Primark. Second-hand gold chain necklace.

Cotton jumper and fur hat both by Primark Pencil skirt by Topshop. Necklace by Forever 21.

Second-hand cape. Dress and scarf worn as turban both by h&m. Cowboy boots by Vera Gomma.

Second-hand jumper. Gloves by h&m. Model Haiyun Xu. Makeup and hairdo Violet Zeng.

1 o signs that you’ve turned into a real Londoner

You have a new super power, the power to read a novel inside a ultra-jammed tube.

Hyde Park is the ultimate “nature” for you. It’s like a forest in the city.

Obviously, the right way to call the tube lines is by their name, not their colours. It’s called Hammersmith & City Line, not Pink Line. Hello?

You think that waiting for more than 4 minutes for the next train is absolutely preposterous.

You have cried inside the train and didn’t care what people think.

4 6

New rule:

don’t ever make an eye contact with strangers, it’s London!

You secretly have wished people who stop on the left hand side of station escalator a dreadful torture.

You meet a girl with pink hair wearing ballet tutu and you no longer blink in surprise.

The sound of the siren in the middle of the night is no longer an issue.

The Kinks has sung it and you believe it,“ As long as I gaze on Waterloo Sunset, I am in paradise.”