Microorganisms that Produces Pigment

6) Huue (previously known as Tinctorium) Huue is a Californian fashion biotech startup founded in 2019 by Michelle Zhu and Dr Tammy Hsu. Like Colorifix, Huue co-opts plant genes to make microbes produce colour. Huue has been genetically engineering bacteria to mirror how the Japanese indigo plant, Polygonum tinctorium, makes and holds its colour (hence the previous name Tinctorium) (Woollacott, 2020). Huue has achieved the reduction process with its biologically synthesised indigo. Via microbe engineering, Zhu and Hsu managed to mimic how an indigo plant makes green leaves turn blue when crushed (Warren, 2021). This is achieved since the engineered bacteria metabolises natural sugars into indigo dye, mimicking how enzymes in plants create colours (Baker, 2021). Their innovation caught the attention of the Diesel founder Adriano Goldschmied (known as the “godfather of denim”), who later joined the company’s advisory board in a “hands-on” role to help with the creation and implementation of denim products made with their biologicallyengineered indigo dye (Warren, 2021). Huue has been supported by investors and institutions, including IndieBio, Fashion for Good, and Melinda Gates’ Female Founders Competition (Huue, n.d.), with a total of $2.8 million worth of investment (Crunchbase, 2022).

CURRENT LIMITATIONS

AND FUTURE PERSPECTIVES

As described in the previous chapter, most of the bacterial pigment production is still at the research and development stage (Azman et al., 2018). One of the most significant limitations in bacteria dye is the highcost investment required for large scale production. Additionally, there is lower stability, variations in shades due to some operational parameters, less percentage in terms of annual production, specifications in terms of bacteria capable of producing some colours and technological imperfections that all lead to delay in progress for industrial production of bacteria dyes (Usman et al., 2017). Usman et al. (2017) mention in their study that for future research, one should look further at developing easier methods for harvesting bacterial pigments to increase their industrial applications, reduce the costs and increase yields for large scale production. Additionally, Huue and Colorifix both work with DNA sequencing and translate that part of the DNA code into a microorganism. This makes it imperative for scientists to understand these risks and report the results in a responsible, transparent, and accurate manner since they are working with living organisms (Shamarina et al., 2017). Microbiology, specifically bacterial dye, can inspire both microbiologists as well as artists alike as they can serve vivid, aesthetic experiences that create room for curiosities and experimentation. Innovative, trans-disciplinary methodologies are required to push boundaries. However, it is critical to maintain robust ethical approaches (Fawcett & Dumitriu, 2018). Rhodes (2016) discusses that it is essential to consider the ethical issues earlier on when conducting experiments to avoid potential pitfalls by identifying any risks at an earlier stage rather than hindering disasters from occurring.

CONCLUSION

Colour in fashion has existed for centuries, and it appears that it will continue to be an important factor in the fashion industry as it enhances sales (Ranson, 2019). As discussed earlier, the way clothes are dyed (with synthetic dyes) causes considerable environmental and health problems. In recent years a lot of excitement has been growing around natural dyes due to them being nontoxic, non-carcinogenic, biodegradable, no crude oil required in the process and overall a resource-saving way to produce colour. Additionally, dyeing with bacteria has also grasped the interest of investors who see potential in this field and are funding small companies developing pigments deriving from bacteria. Pili, Colorifix and Huue are at the forefront of commercialising bacteria dyes, however, at this point, they are still in research and development stages. Additionally, ethics and transparency are imperative when conducting experiments when working with living organisms.

This desk research validates the question that dyeing textiles with bacteria is a sustainable solution to achieve colourful pigments on textiles. As mentioned in the Microorganisms that Produce Pigment chapter, the fashion collection deriving from this paper, explores dyeing textiles with Janthinobacterium lividum (purple pigment), Serratia marcescens (red/pink pigment), Kocuria rhizophila (yellow pigment), Arthrobacter agilis (pink/orange pigment), Streptomyces coelicolor (purple pigment) and Vogesella indigofera (indigo pigment). However, Janthinobacterium lividum and Serratia marcescens have been the most successful at dyeing textiles in vibrant, saturated hues in the lab. As for the other bacteria, more research and experimentation need to take place in order to achieve long-lasting, saturated textile dyes.