On theVine Summer 2010
Ends 28th February 2011
The Taste : The Season inside: Cape Mentelle Cooling whites Festivity of bubbles All panel selected
On the Vine Premium Wine Buying Guide
We l c o me Our final newsletter of the year reveals some great wines. We believe the 2010 WA vintage has delivered some of our best whites ever and the semillon /sauvignon blanc blends mentioned here are exceptional and will drink beautifully over summer. It was a seriously good vintage in SA as well and their rieslings and sauvignon blancs are also top quality. A diversified range of reds awaits you, from the light funky pinots to some solid cabernet and shiraz wines (chill them slightly over summer) and don’t forget our special sparkling feature, you’ll have loads of enjoyment trying this marvelous range of bubbles. Have a safe and very happy Christmas and holiday season. We’ll be back with many brand-new panel-selected wines in 2011. Cheers! Rod Properjohn
The Panel Rod Properjohn
Steve Perry
Alex Michelly
Rod began in the wine industry 35 years ago as a Wine Advisory Officer for the Wine Industry Association of WA and gravitated from there into lecturing at the Association’s Wine Education Centre, in which he is still involved. He also ran wine classes for Technical and Further Education. He was a wine columnist for the Western Mail and Daily News papers and later on with the magazines West Coast, Scoop, WineState, Spice, Menu and Cravings. He is also a Regional Wine Show judge and the writer of our newsletter.
Steve has been expertly advising and educating Perth’s western suburbs in wine since 1985. He was a director of legendary Cottesloe Wine Store - John Coppins until 1997 and now leads the team at fine wine storeSwanbourne Liquor Barons. He has travelled extensively around the wine-growing regions of Australia and NZ and has been the Chairman of the Panel for over 10 Years.
Alex hails from a winemaking background and brings much technical winemaking knowledge to the panel. Since 2002, Alex has worked 9 vintages in 5 countries, completing vintages with Amberley and Cape Mentelle before heading across the Tasman to make wine for St Clair in Marlborough. Alex has also worked vintage in Portugal, California and Canada. When not making wine, Alex has worked in fine wine stores in Boston and Perth.
Peter Bradbeer
Michael Dickson
Thomas Rick
Peter has been in the wine industry for over 30 years, always tasting and assessing wines for sale and for his own drinking. He has been Wine Show judging and consulting to a major Australian wine company. Being on other professional wine panels gives him a broad view of what is out there, but it is always changing. Peter’s view is you never stop learning.
Paul McArdle Paul is currently the CEO for Fonty’s Pool winery in Pemberton. He has been the wine consultant for ‘Must’ wine bar/restaurant in Perth (since 2004). Paul is regularly involved in both trade and consumer wine education and passed the UK based ‘Masters of Wine’ (MW) tasting exam in 2003.
Paul (Ed) Edwards Ed joined the wine trade in 1998 and has managed fine wine stores in London, Sydney and Perth. He led Hyde Park Cellars to win the NSW Liquor Store of the year Award in 2001 before moving to the historic cellars ‘Averys of Bristol’, to study for the WSET (Wine & Spirits Education Trust) diploma which he passed in 2005. In 2008 Ed was the WA representative in the national final of the prestigious, Negociants ‘Working with Wine’ Fellowship.
For Michael wine started as an interest, then became a vocation and after 20 years in the wine industry as both a retailer and wholesaler, remains a passion. What keeps that passion alive is the increasing range of new and interesting wines from grape varieties and regions around the world that are becoming available to us.
Peter J. Semmens Pete has been a part of this industry for over thirty years on both sides of the counter. Noel his father, introduced him to the finer things in life, including food and wine. He readily admits to having a “punters palate” and loves to de-mystify wine by stating, “A good wine... is a wine you like”.
Basil Giglia Basil has been involved in the liquor industry since 1983. Besides a good drop of wine, he can not pass up a cold beer, a good malt whisky or a silky fortified. Basil enjoys selecting wines to compliment the diverse range of foods on offer today. What more is there? Good food, good wine and stimulating company and enjoying life.
Thomas is our late starter to wine appreciation and as the youngest member of the panel his accreditation may not read as long as others. But with a sensitive palate and a good nose for what is truly outstanding wine value, he is always looking for the next fine wine bargain for the customer.
In 1965 agriculturist Dr John Gladstone had a ‘gut feeling’ about Margaret River as a wine region with strong similarities to Bordeaux. He saw undulating well draining ironstone gravel earth carrying healthy Marri trees, which were an indication of prime vineyard soil. Cape Mentelle has over 200 hectares of its own vines across four regional vineyards. Contract grown fruit is also sourced, with great care taken to build a relationship with growers to reflect regional character.
mentelle
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$ Cape Mentelle 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon
each by mixed 6pk
One of the original purveyors of this now classic blend from Margaret River, Mentelle is continuing with the quality angle over the ‘keep the price down’ philosophy. There is a distinct straw green colour, it has lively citrus, freshlymown grass, textural integrity and a bundle of acidity to clean up. Really good stuff, so hop in and enjoy.
$ Cape Mentelle 2008 Cabernet Merlot ‘Trinders’
We said the ‘07 Trinders was great and this new release makes a tidy quinella. It has Margaret River eucalyptus, wild berry fruits, savouriness, elegance and chalky (not aggressive) tannins. It’s cool in the mouth, drinks beautifully now and will keep on drinking this way for some years.
3299
3799
$ Cape Mentelle 2008 Margaret River Shiraz
$
each by mixed 6pk
Although playing second fiddle in the Margaret River orchestra to cabernet sauvignon, shiraz is being rewarded with more applause each year. This wine has a distinct tone and resonance, a spicy up-lifting ring to it - firm yet refined, distinctive yet harmonious. A medium weighted, very approachable shiraz from this celebrated moderate maritime climate.
each by mixed 6pk
Cape Mentelle 2008 Chardonnay
each by mixed 6pk
A winery that has been making quality chardonnay since 1985 and although it’s probably the cornerstone of the production, the wine often gets lost amongst the bevy of attractive Mentelle reds. This won’t get lost however, it’s a beauty. We love the complex creamy mealy characters in this along with the stone fruit and citrus flavours which extend to a firm finish. Classy Margaret River chardonnay!
A happy soul, that all the way,to heaven hath a summer’s day. Richard Crashaw
Whites $
1399
each by mixed 6pk
1399
$ Aramis 2010 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc
each by mixed 6pk
An almost perfect vintage for sauvignon blanc in the cool Adelaide Hills helped to produce this bright and glistening wine. There are tropical fruits and some grassy austerity on the palate along with a lemony acid finish. Great luncheon wine with goat’s cheese and a green salad or serve as an early evening aperitif.
1399
$
each by mixed 6pk
Peos Estate 2010 Chardonnay
Rockfield 2010 Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
This Manjimup wine is unwooded, as you’ve probably guessed by its vintage; it hasn’t had the time to rest in oak. Clear light straw in colour the wine shows unhindered varietal nectarine and peach on the nose and again on the palate where a neat acidity cleans up on the finish. This is not a big wine but it has ample flavour and balance and will drink well for a couple of years.
This is a delight, a fresh lemony well-balanced wine amongst a plethora of SSB’s and SBS’s on the local market. Passionfruit (along with the lemon) is attractive as is a grassy lift and gooseberry influence of sauvignon blanc. Partial barrel fermentation adds smokiness and a little texture, but we see this as essentially a fruit-driven wine to be enjoyed soon. Realistically priced and a must-buy.
1499
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each by mixed 6pk
$
1699
each by mixed 6pk
Stop Banks 2009 Marlborough Pinot Gris (NZ)
Wirra Wirra 2010 The Lost Watch Hand Picked Riesling
There is a sameness about pinot gris in New Zealand that we don’t see in Australian wines. Firstly the wines are all called pinot gris and never pinot grigio. That’s sensible and they are bottled early, fruit-driven with sugar retention. It’s a lottery when you buy Aussie gris or grigio. This Kiwi gris, notwithstanding, is a fresh attractive style with the expected dollop of sugar marrying to the poached pear nuances of the variety.
This Adelaide Hills riesling shows a floral lift and a mandatory citrus infusion with a purity of fruit on the palate that lingers to a long drying refreshing finish. Lovely young balanced riesling that many will enjoy as a youngster, but there will be others who will appreciate this in a five or six years time. It’s up to you.
How sweet I roamed from field to field, and tasted all the summer’s pride. William Blake
1799
$ O’Leary Walker 2010 Watervale Riesling
each by mixed 6pk
A consistent producer of fine riesling, this new release exemplifies the Clare Valley, fruit quality and focused winemaking. There is a bundle of lime juice in this fresh long and lean wine that stretches to a steely minerality on the finish. Compare this to the Polish Hill riesling from the same maker. Perfect with a plate of just-seared scallops.
1999
1899
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$
each by mixed 6pk
each by mixed 6pk
Clairault 2010 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
Hay Shed Hill 2009 Chardonnay
We love the lychee and loquat fruit (found in nostalgic WA gardens) in this Margaret River wine. The flavour is distinctive and a little unique for the blend but it fronts up as a gorgeous young white wine with freshness and wonderful drinkability. Don’t waste a moment, get in and enjoy this over the warmer months ahead. You’ll love it as much as we do.
Bright straw in colour, this youngster is a contemporary style without cheesy malolactic characters and overdone oak maturation. From mature vines the wine has flavour in the form of honeydew melon, ripe peach and subtle oak kicks in with a little texture and grip. Will improve in the bottle and we suggest you begin to drink this in another six months and continue to do so for three years.
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1899
1999
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each by mixed 6pk
each by mixed 6pk
Wirra Wirra 2010 Hiding Champion Sauvignon Blanc
Bress 2010 La Gallina White
The source of this fruit is the Adelaide Hills and it produces sauvignon blanc that is more reserved on the nose than the gushy wines of Marlborough NZ. Notwithstanding the aromatics, the region delivers good palate weight and distinctive acidity and the Hiding Champion is suited to the light foods of summer with its gentle tropical fruit sweetness and hints of gooseberry.
A Rhone-style white wine from central Victoria that packs a solid punch. You’ll notice an attractive green straw colour and an aromatic pungency of orange rind, grapefruit blossom and stone fruit and the palate is of generous weight with citrus flavours and spice extending to a grippy finish. Serve with roasted chicken, an appropriate dish for both label and wine.
A perfect summer day is when the sun is shining, the breeze is blowing, the birds are singing, and the lawn mower is broken. James Dent
Reds
$
1399
each by mixed 6pk
Aramis 2008 Shiraz Cabernet A McLaren Vale red from a ‘shorts and singlet’ sweltering vintage, so expect more than ripe fruit and generous flavour. This has got the lot, a porty nose, full-on concentrated mulberry and prune conserve, a belting of sweet oak and warming finish. You’ll have a few friends who love big bold reds – try this out on them. Drink soon as it’s not for cellaring.
1499
1799
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$
each by mixed 6pk
each by mixed 6pk
Smith & Hooper 2008 Wrattonbully Merlot
Red Hill Estate 2008 Pinot Noir
You won’t find a more consistent, better value Australian merlot than this. It is a medium bodied gem of silky tannins, anise spice, tempered oak, good length and finish. Simply a well-structured savoury, easy-drinking red that ticks all the boxes for merlot, a varietal wine which is often disappointing.
The Mornington Peninsula, south/east of Melbourne makes good pinots and here’s one of them. A funky wild cherry nose is not a bad introduction; add some charry oak, a sweaty spicy character, plump raspberries, a fine long finish and you have a half-decent wine. And the price is a bonus - can’t grizzle about that.
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1799
each by mixed 6pk
1899
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each by mixed 6pk
Jim Barry 2008 The Lodge Hill Shiraz
Trevelen Farm 2008 ‘the tunney’ Cabernet Sauvignon
From a specific rocky vineyard high in the eastern slopes of the Clare Valley, this is a sizeable red wine with loads of colour, buckets of plum and mulberry, sweet oak, spice and mint and mocha/liquorice to boot. It’s a plump style of shiraz, readily drinkable and will please those with a liking for full flavoured Australian reds. Marvelous value!
The grapes for this obviously ripened well in the cool Great Southern region, as the label says this wine weighs in at 15% alcohol and that doesn’t happen every year in this part of the world. There is varietal blackcurrant fruit, some anise, a decent whack of sweet French oak and a lingering finish to good acidity. Already a dual gold medal winner in State shows. Smart wine.
Summer afternoon, summer afternoon; to me those have always been the two most beautiful words in the English language’s pride.” Henry James
1999
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each by mixed 6pk
E. Guigal 2006 Côtes du Rhône (Fr) This is the entry level red to the great Rhone range of Guigal wines. You’ll notice a savoury aromatic lift to this middleweight blend of mainly grenache and syrah (shiraz) and then hints of earth, pepper and tobacco balanced by dusty tannins on the palate. Has some meaty Gallic flesh as well. Enjoy it soon.
2799
1999
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$ Tar & Roses 2008 Tempranillo
each by mixed 6pk
An emerging and exciting Spanish red variety in Australia. Where it will perform best is anyone’s guess and we should see more regional indication of its suitability as the vines age. This is from middle Victoria and the Alps and it shows gentle but obvious tannins, generous fruit, earthiness and is soft in acidity as it invariably is. Keep it Spanish and serve with a robust paella.
$
Heathcote 2008 Mail Coach Shiraz
each by mixed 6pk
This shiraz has become a favourite of ours over the years with its pepper/spice character and good weight, although this does have a squirt of tangy orangey viognier which adds fruity aromatics to the nose. It’s loose-limbed and pliable on the palate, a very quaffable red with decent tannins yet a silky texture.
1999
3299
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each by mixed 6pk
each by mixed 6pk
Petit Clos by Clos Henri 2008 Marlborough Pinot Noir (NZ)
Majella 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
We are often confronted by big up-front ripe-fruited characters and warm alcohol in NZ pinots but this wine is more a savoury old-world style with sour cherries and tart acidity. The French connection is obvious both in name and style. You’ll enjoy it, but you must serve it with food. We suggest barbecued quail or pan-fried duck breast with a sweet berry sauce.
A very warm vintage even in the cool Coonawarra corner of SA guaranteed ripe fruit and there is a bundle of that in this young red. Add a solid dose of sweet new oak and you have a big robust wine, coal-black in colour with plum jam and blackcurrant, dark chocolate, liquorice and firm tannins. This is not a typical Coonawarra cabernet, but a good wine nonetheless. 15% alcohol.
When selecting a sparkler for this newsletter, the panel looks for length of flavour and palate-balance, very much as it does for all wines. There should be plenty of fizz when first poured, a generous lacy froth will appear on the surface and fine bead will persist. The wine will have some complexity of lees maturation (bread, yeast characters) if bottle fermented and generally be fresh, invigorating and have a dry cleansing acid finish. Overtly fruity or sweet wines do not rate highly, unless of course the label, when identified, indicates the wine is of this style. Price is always a consideration. Some wines are lighter and more suited as a pre-dinner drink and the fuller bodied styles can be served with an array of dishes. The inimitable sound of popping corks is very popular with members of the panel and our annual sparkling taste-off invariably unearths cracking wines. Have a look at these. Wines are non-vintage unless indicated differently. Cheers! Rod Properjohn
The best that fizz for this Festive Season
One swallow alone does not make the summer. Miguel de Cervantes
1299
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$ Windy Peak Pinot Noir Chardonnay Rose
each by mixed 6pk
The cerise coloured neck foil is a dead giveaway to the style. Yes, this wine is a deep salmon pink colour, with the strength of a decent proportion of pinot noir and then the fruity lightness of chardonnay to give balance. An inexpensive pink bubbly with a smidge of sugar to round out the palate. Add to the summer fruit punch if you wish, or liven up a fresh fruit salad with a splash.
$ Penley Pinot Sparkling
Although simply labelled up-front with these two words, the back label is more comprehensive and tells us this is a 2009 vintage sparkling pinot noir from Penley Estate in Coonawarra. The red wire muzzle is an indicator of the wine’s colour and the palate has a bucketful of juicy strawberries and soft textures. Perfect, served slightly chilled, with roast turkey or duck.
1999
1499
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$ Villa Jolanda Prosecco Extra Dry (It)
each by mixed 6pk
Prosecco is a light Italian sparkling white wine that has boomed in international popularity in the last decade. Try this one. With less bubble and complexity than champagne, it’s best consumed when young and fresh and when the delicacy of white-flesh stone fruit and acidity is at its best. The style is also a popular mixer in cocktails, think bellini – prosecco and peach puree. Salute!
each by mixed 6pk
Deutz Brut Méthode Traditionnelle (NZ)
each by mixed 6pk
A historic partnership with the House of Deutz in Champagne, France almost guarantees champagne-like characters and quality in this Marlborough wine. Pinot noir and chardonnay provide both structure and elegance and lees maturation harnesses a biscuity influence which extends to a crisp finish. Quality wine at a very reasonable price.
Contrary to legend and popular belief, Dom Perignon did not invent sparkling wine. The oldest recorded sparkling wine is Blanquette de Limoux, which was apparently invented by Benedictine Monks in the Abbey of Saint Hilaire near Carcassonne in 1531.
2499
$ Seppelt 2006 Original Sparkling Shiraz
each by mixed 6pk
There’s plenty of nostalgia locked away in this bottle, it’s the most recognised and widely-loved sparkling red in Australia. The red base wine is aged in large old oak barrels before undergoing bottle fermentation and about 16 months lees maturation. The result is a slightly sweet bubbly red with an earthiness that delights now and will build a leathery spicy complexity as it ages. For a traditional Christmas lunch.
$ Cloudy Bay Pelorus Brut (NZ)
$ Seppelt 2006 Salinger Pinot Noir Chardonnay
Seppelt has been making sparkling wine, both white and red, in Oz for over a century so you’d think they’d know a little about it. They have released this latest gem, which must be one of their best white bubbles ever. Light straw in colour, it’s fresh and creamy with wonderful length and cleansing attributes. A stunning aperitif, don’t miss this.
2799
each by mixed 6pk
A non-vintage sparkler from Marlborough with all the classical features of champagne. You’ll see lots of fine bubble, a lacy froth, nutty/singed toast complexity, subtle fruit and a dry palate extending to a crunching finish. Great food wine and excellent value from this well-known and very popular winery.
2499
each by mixed 6pk
4499
$ Janisson & Fils Brut Tradition Champagne (Fr)
each by mixed 6pk
All dressed up formally in a silver label and foil on a dark green bottle, this relatively new label (in Oz, at least) certainly looks the part and the wine within the package is very smart as well. It has all the features we look for and shows a very good balance of flavours, complexity and acid finish. Drinks beautifully right now, so there’s no excuse.
In the 19th century Champagne was noticeably sweeter than the Champagne of today. The trend towards drier Champagne began when Perrier-Jouët decided not to sweeten his 1846 vintage prior to exporting it to London.
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$ Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut Champagne (Fr)
each by mixed 6pk
Founded in 1811, this House produces consistent high quality fizz. An intoxicating nose of an early-morning bakery mixed with spring wildflowers is an attractive introduction to this wine. Take a sip and then your palate will engage with subtle citrus and stone fruit and lots of silky texture reaching to a cleansing dry acid completion. Open this at any time of the day or night, it’ll be worth it.
$ Louis Roederer Brut Premiere Champagne (Fr)
Roederer never disappoints and is invariably in our top bracket of champagne each year. It has buckets of flavour yet has a delicacy of taste that is tantalizing and then the refreshing fizz on the tongue lingers to a delightful finish. Another brilliant wine from this House and one to be savoured with a close friend preferably one who loves champagne.
8499
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$ G.H. Mumm Brut-Rosé Champagne (Fr)
each by mixed 6pk
Pink champagne is a rarer beast than the ubiquitous white bubbles and generally more expensive. When it’s as good as this Mumm, it is exciting, especially when colour co-ordinated with an hors-d’oeuvre like smoked salmon or red salmon caviar. A blush coloured wine, the palate is a wealth of fresh brioche, strawberries and cream and has lovely tingling acidity on the long finish.
each by mixed 6pk
Pol Roger 2000 Vintage Champagne (Fr)
each by mixed 6pk
Vintage champagne is from one specific vintage and is not a blend of different years as in the non-vintage champagnes. The fruit must be exemplary and the lift in quality is reflected in the price. This Pol is a cracker, a wine that knocked up receiving top points from our panel members. It’s lightly perfumed, sophisticated, elegant, superbly balanced and gently caresses the palate. In one word – bliss!
Yo u r O n T h e V i n e S t o r e s Liquor Barons Swanbourne
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133 Waratah Ave P: 9386 8749 Specials end 28/2/11. While stocks last. Pics for illustration purposes only. Prices inclusive of GST. OTV Magazine published by Liquor Barons Co-Op Ltd. Suite 16 350 Cambridge St Wembley WA 6014 . Tel 08 9287 2222