On theVine Winter 2011
On the Vine
inside: Southern Pinots Warming Reds Wonderful Whites
Premium Wine Buying Guide
All panel selected
Ends 31st August 2011
We l c o me The chills and rains of winter have finally arrived after an exhaustingly humid and hot dry summer. We don’t seem to have much autumn in the south-west of WA and that’s a shame because it can be a wonderful time of the year. There is always room for a couple of whites, but while we are rugging up and cranking the fires, it is ideal weather for a red wine or three and some of those warming fortifieds that come into their own when the thermometers and barometers start dropping. New labeling laws see the demise of traditional names such as sherry, port and tokay from Australian-made wines and you will now see apero and topaque appearing on labels. We will explain more when we review the wines. In the meantime, indulge and keep warm. Cheers! Rod Properjohn
The Panel Rod Properjohn
Steve Perry
Alex Michelly
Rod began in the wine industry 35 years ago as a Wine Advisory Officer for the Wine Industry Association of WA and gravitated from there into lecturing at the Association’s Wine Education Centre, in which he is still involved. He also ran wine classes for Technical and Further Education. He was a wine columnist for the Western Mail and Daily News papers and later on with the magazines West Coast, Scoop, WineState, Spice, Menu and Cravings. He is also a Regional Wine Show judge and the writer of our newsletter.
Steve has been expertly advising and educating Perth’s western suburbs since 1985. He was a director of legendary Cottesloe Wine Store - John Coppins until 1997 and now leads the team at fine wine storeSwanbourne Liquor Barons. He has travelled extensively around the wine-growing regions of Australia and NZ and has been the Chairman of the Panel for over 10 Years.
Alex hails from a winemaking background and brings much technical winemaking knowledge to the panel. Since 2002, Alex has worked 9 vintages in 5 countries, completing vintages with Amberley and Cape Mentelle before heading across the Tasman to make wine for St Clair in Marlborough. Alex has also worked vintage in Portugal, California and Canada. When not making wine, Alex has worked in fine wine stores in Boston and Perth.
Peter Bradbeer
Michael Dickson
Thomas Rick
Peter has been in the wine industry for over 30 years, always tasting and assessing wines for sale and for his own drinking. He has been Wine Show judging and consulting to a major Australian wine company. Being on other professional wine panels gives him a broad view of what is out there, but it is always changing. Peter’s view is you never stop learning.
Paul McArdle Paul is currently the CEO for Fonty’s Pool winery in Pemberton. He is the wine consultant for ‘Must’ wine bar/restaurant in Perth (since 2004). Paul is regularly involved in both trade and consumer wine education and passed the UK based ‘Masters of Wine’ (MW) tasting exam in 2003.
Paul (Ed) Edwards Ed joined the wine trade in 1998 and has managed fine wine stores in London, Sydney and Perth. He led Hyde Park Cellars to win the NSW Liquor Store of the year Award in 2001 before moving to the historic cellars- ‘Averys of Bristol’, to study for the WSET (Wine & Spirits Education Trust) diploma which he passed in 2005. In 2008 Ed was the WA representative in the national final of the prestigious, Negociants ‘Working with Wine’ Fellowship.
For Michael wine started as an interest, then became a vocation and after 20 years in the wine industry as both a retailer and wholesaler, remains a passion. What keeps that passion alive is the increasing range of new and interesting wines from grape varieties and regions around the world that are becoming available to us.
Peter J. Semmens Pete has been apart of this industry for over thirty years on both sides of the counter. Noel his father, introduced him to the finer things in life, including food and wine. He readily admits to having a “punters palate” and loves to de-mystify wine by stating, “A good wine... is a wine you like”.
Basil Giglia Basil has been involved in the liquor industry since 1983. Besides a good drop of wine he can not pass up a cold beer, a good malt whisky or a silky fortified. Basil enjoys selecting wines to compliment the diverse range of foods on offer today. What more is there? Good food, good wine and stimulating company and enjoying life.
Thomas is our late starter to wine appreciation and as the youngest member of the panel his accreditation may not read as long as others. But with a sensitive palate and a good nose for what is truly outstanding wine value, he is always looking for the next fine wine bargin for the customer.
I prefer winter and fall, when you feel the bone structure of the landscape - the loneliness of it, the dead feeling of winter. Something waits beneath it, the whole story doesn’t show. Andrew Wyeth
Fortified $
1499
each by mixed 6pk
Grant Burge Aged Tawny
$16.99 single
A tawny port with the word ‘port’ erased from the label by law. Made from red varieties, this has a brilliant amber colour with a flash of red and a depth of spicy ripe fruit. A dollop of old oak-aged wine is blended in to give it a little intrigue and complexity. The sugar sweetness is cleaned up nicely by a spirituous finish. Lovely balance in this Barossa wine and great value.
1799
3499
$
$
each by mixed 6pk
Seppeltsfield Cellar No 8 Muscat
$19.99 single Made from the brown muscat grapes grown in internationally-famous Rutherglen Victoria, this seductive super-sweet sipping wine is rounded with dollops of toffee, raisin, honey, rose petal and exotic spices. Light the fire, pull up a fluffy rug and indulge. And at 16.9% alcohol, it is advisable to have someone else under the rug with you to share the indulging.
2999
$
each by mixed 6pk
Stanton & Killeen Classic Rutherglen Topaque
$34.99 single
Topaque is the new name for tokay which has been dumped from Australian wine labels and we’re not too keen about that. Anyway, the wine is still made from the tokay grape and has a toffee-like aroma and a varietal fish oil character which we love to see in this style. It is sweet, drinks well and is not concentrated like some of the liqueur wines can be. Silver medal winner Cowra Wine Show 2010
each by mixed 6pk
Carmes de Rieussec 2007 Sauternes (Fr)
$38.99 single This is the second label of Chateau Rieussec, but don’t let that deter you, as you will buy it at about one third the price of its illustrious first-growth brother. Mid to deep straw in colour, this has a brilliant complex nose of nuttiness and heady cough lollies, with a firm sweet long palate of dried citrus intensity and the necessary cleansing finish. Serve with liver paté or a soft creamy blue cheese for best results.
3799
$
each by mixed 6pk
$42.99 single
A. R. Valdespino El Candado Pedro Ximenez Sherry (Esp) The Spanish continue to use the term sherry because they own it. This dessert style is made from sweet grapes which are laid out to dry and to increase the proportional sugar and flavour. They are then crushed, fermented, the wine fortified and aged in old wood in a solera for years. Known as PX in the trade, this has a double-cream texture, rich honey, raisins and dusty vanilla oak. It also has a padlocked closure so your family can’t pilfer it. That’s sensible.
Winter 2011 Winter is nature’s way of saying, “Up yours.” Robert Byrne
1799
$
W h i t e s $
Dandelion Vineyards 2010 Eden Valley Riesling
each by mixed 6pk
This ‘Wonderland of the Eden Valley Riesling’ is a perfect example of why we are passionate about the variety. This pure sweet-fruited beauty has the aromatics of citrus blossom and intensity of lime sorbet on the palate stretching to a minerally-fine acid finish. You’d swear it has some sugar but it’s bone-dry, it’s the intensity of fruit that gives a sweet impression. Stunning wine. Trophy winner, Queensland.
1699
1799
$
each by mixed 6pk
each by mixed 6pk
Bellarmine 2009 Pemberton Chardonnay
Voyager Estate 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon
A youthful contemporary style which has plenty of cool area varietal nectarine and white peach and also a complement of tropical pineapple and a lemony flavours which gives the wine lots of zest and life. There is also a little oak influence and that adds extra detail to the wine. Serve with flavoursome seafood or roast chicken.
A fresh lively wine with a bright straw colour and a bundle of ripe lemony fruit, a dash of passionfruit and some guava for interest. This is Margaret River estate-grown and the 64% sauvignon blanc 36% semillon blend works well and delivers an attractive, very quaffable white wine that drinkers love. One of our favourite SBS’s, each and every vintage.
1799
$
each by mixed 6pk
$
1899
each by mixed 6pk
Ibizan 2010 Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
Lawson’s Dry Hills 2010 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (NZ)
Promising label from the southern Margaret River region and this wine shows the quality of semillon and sauvignon blanc blended together in a proportion that offers good balance and super drinkability. The stone fruit lemony characters of semillon temper the grassy herbal aspects of sauvignon blanc and the palate is rounded off with just a hint of oak. Gold medal Margaret River show.
Pale straw with an apple-green edge this has the trademark gooseberry influence and a little citrus. Part was fermented in French oak and this adds mealy creamy textures to the palate and then the wine lingers to a typical crisp minerality on the finish. Still recognizable as sauvignon blanc, but there’s plenty of flavour and balance here. Universally supported by the panel. Gold Medal NZ.
Winter 2011 Let us love winter, for it is the spring of genius. Pietro Aretino
$ Forest Hill Vineyard 2010 Chardonnay
1999
each by mixed 6pk
A thoroughly modern chardonnay with a bright straw colour and peachy stone fruit nose. The palate is tight with citrus and nectarine fruit and grainy nutty flavours of oak fermentation and maturation. Not in your face, but this has subtlety, creaminess and lovely balance, that will drink well over the next four years or so. Terrific.
Pinot Noir 1899
2199
$
$
each by mixed 6pk
each by mixed 6pk
Mountadam 2010 Eden Valley Pinot Gris
Fonty’s Pool 2010 Pinot Noir
Here’s a pleasant pinot gris from the cool and quiet Mountadam in the high slopes of the Eden Valley SA. You’ll notice the faintest of pink in the glass from the grey/pink skins of the variety and then a gentle perfume of green pear and white peach. The palate continues with the light stone fruit theme and the addition of a little lemon. A tiny dollop of grape sugar helps with the balance.
Here’s a label that has shown enormous strides recently and certainly with pinot noir which is suited to the cool Pemberton region where the Fonty’s vineyard is ensconced. The latest pinot is a light and bright red/mauve colour with succulent raspberry fruit and hints of earth and sweaty leather. It has good length and soft tannins to finish. Drink soon or a short-term maturation is best. Ideal with duck breast and a sweet berry sauce.
$
2499
1999
$
each by mixed 6pk
each by mixed 6pk
Higher Plane 2009 Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc
Rabbit Ranch 2008 Central Otago Pinot Noir (NZ)
The oak treatment here is taken to another level and offers a smoky lift to the nose and grippy firmness and weight to the palate, atypical of the variety. It’s long and dry however and has the customary firm acid. Producers of this style, and there is a growing number of them, should clearly indicate on the label the influence of oak in the wine, as Higher Plane does, otherwise they risk dissatisfaction and abuse from naïve savvy drinkers.
Here’s a really good wine with the juicy red berry fruit often seen in these NZ pinots along with some spicy oak, discreet earthy characters and the length of good burgundy. It would be suited to a serving of braised bunny, in more ways than one. Well packaged and suitably priced, you’d be hopping mad (sorry) if you didn’t buy a couple of bottles of this.
Winter 2011 The color of springtime is in the flowers, the color of winter is in the imagination. Terri Guillemets
Reds $
$
1299
each by mixed 6pk
Mt. Monster 2009 Shiraz From the Limestone Coast down in the south-east corner of SA, this delightful shiraz has plenty of dark red colour, the aromas of plum and mulberry and a palate full of deep red fruits, sandy tannins and a structure that suits early drinking. You won’t be disappointed in this and the price is a real bonus. Would suit most winter dishes. Gold medal, San Francisco.
1099
1799
$
each by mixed 6pk
each by mixed 6pk
Sol de Mayo 2008 Malbec (Arg)
Pikes 2008 “The Dogwalk” Cabernet Merlot
Although a minor blending variety in Australia, malbec is huge in Argentina and this is one of the imports that are doing so well here at the moment. The wine boasts ripe plum fruits and clove spice dressed up in a big round soft package with a dry balancing finish. An Argentinean would probably eat a half a cow with a bottle of this, you’ll probably settle for a T-bone. Sensational value and is screw capped.
Deep red black in colour with concentrated prune-like characteristics, squishy blackberry and dark chocolate. From a very warm Clare Valley vintage, this is a St Bernard of a cab merlot with a big round conformation and lots of strength, weight and vigour. If you’re a wimp, don’t be tempted, this is for lovers of big big reds. Save for a late game of footy on the telly, on a cold day.
$
1999
1199
each by mixed 6pk
Picaroon 2009 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Another attractive cabernet sauvignon from this good Margaret River vintage. It has a typical varietal structure with grippy grape tannins, brambly black fruit, a long palate and firm drying finish, with some cedary wood characters thrown in for good measure. Suit a gutsy winter red meat dish and it has time ahead of it, if you wish to cellar a few bottles.
$ Poggiotondo 2008 Chianti Superiore (It)
each by mixed 6pk
Named by the growers, the Antonini family, after the neighbouring hills in Tuscany, this has the red cherry fruit so typical of Chianti, along with light dusty oak, kitchen spices, beef stock and firm finishing tannins and acids. Serve with a hot gutsy Tuscan bean soup with loads of garlic, shaved Parmesan and chunky bread, or if you are not that adventurous, a slice of your favourite pizza. 13.0% alc.
Winter 2011 Winter is the time for comfort, for good food and warmth, and for a talk beside the fire: it is the time for home. Edith Sitwell
1999
$
each by mixed 6pk
$
2799
each by mixed 6pk
Majella The Musician 2010 Cabernet Shiraz
Wirra Wirra 2009 Woodhenge McLaren Vale Shiraz
By Majella of Coonawarra, this blend is more a drink-soon style than their wellknown straight Cabernet Sauvignon. Only just released and still a little clunky, this is fruit-driven and has generous blackberry, mulberry and spice. Chalky tannins mingle with oak and good acid cleans up on the finish. Will settle down and drink beautifully over the next three years. Sensational value.
This is fairly typical McLaren Vale shiraz. Big colour, full and ripe red berry fruit on the nose and a tannin-rich palate with toasty oak background, chocolate, liquorice and other yummy bits that help to make a complex wine. Built to develop for a few years in the cellar, but drinks well now for those who can’t resist.
1999
each by mixed 6pk
$
each by mixed 6pk
4499
$
Aramis Vineyards 2006 McLaren Vale Shiraz
Yalumba 2006 The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz
We found this wine atypical of the McLaren Vale region in that it’s a leaner more angular style, has a distinctive savoury component and is cool in the mouth which belies its 14.5% alcohol. From an excellent vintage, it has a white pepper and kitchen spice lift and a very long palate with good tannin structure and acid finish. Fine food wine; try it with a beefy stew.
A traditional Australian blend with an old fashioned label from an old familyowned wine company. We’d expect nothing less than old fashioned quality and drinkability in this wine and it has it in spades. There are buckets of fruit, a good solid sweet oak component, integrated tannins and chocolate and spice to boot. A wonderful Barossa red wine and one of our perennial favourites.
2299
$
each by mixed 6pk
4499
$
each by mixed 6pk
Wise 2009 Margaret River Lot 80 Cabernet Sauvignon
Yalumba 2007 The Menzies Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon
We thoroughly enjoyed this cabernet sauvignon from a very smart Margaret River vintage although it’s rare that the region has a poor vintage. A glorious deep red colour, it has a cassis aroma and a waft of eucalypt with firm up-front tannins and a long crisp plate with great texture. Quality wine that would be ideal with a rib-eye steak and some crisp fries.
This is from a single vineyard in Coonawarra in SA and has a whiff of tobacco and blackcurrant, it’s long in the mouth with olive and mint along with briary black fruit, chocolate oak and grippy tannins. We prefer this wine with bottle age, so file away a few bottles in the cellar and watch it open up and expand to a lovely drink in a few years time. Then serve it with a rack of pink roasted lamb.
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