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This Tuscan Life - WINTER - Number Fourteen

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Find Your dream home in Tuscany PRESTIGIOUS PROPERTIES FLORENCE VIA SAN NICCOLO’ 54R 50125 FIRENZE +39 055 247 7048 LUNGARNO ALLE GRAZIE 18R 50122 FIRENZE +39 055 234 7386 www.sanniccolorealestate.it sanniccolorealestate@gmail.com

@sanniccolorealestate

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EDITOR & FOUNDER Lisa Brancatisano

lisa@thistuscanlife.com

DIRECTOR Luca Lari

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS Arturo Dori | CHEF Thomas Martini| BARMAN Toni Brancatisano| Food Blogger & Stylist

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Lisa Brancatisano

THIS TUSCAN LIFE LOGO DESIGN www.studiothink.com

COVER PHOTOS

Snow in Florence by Emiliano Di Donato This Tuscan Life, trimestrale numero 14 |WINTER 2020 Registrazione Tribunale di Firenze n° 2447 del 26/4/2017

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WINTER IN TUSCANY I’ll be honest. I don’t love the cold and so Winter is not my favourite season but there are many things that make this season so much more bearable in Tuscany. The festivities don’t end with Christmas and New Year. Come February and it’s time for Carnival which means finding lots of sweet cakes and treats in the bakeries. We share recipes for some of the most traditional and our favourites. If you want to witness Italy’s largest and most famous Carnival parade, then you have to visit Viareggio to witness the incredible creations made from the ancient art of paper-mache. You can read about the history of this festival on page 42 and also learn about the famous artist Uberto Bonetti who created the carnival and city mascot, Burlamacco.

On the subject of art, we also meet the Guarnieri brothers, owners of the Art Gallery Studio Iguarnieri, one of the most well known studios of local artists in Florence who have been creating their original fresco art in Florence for over forty years.

Artisans Stefano Bemer, shoemaker and Sartoria Vestrucci have joined forces in San Niccolò. It’s your one-stop-shop

for made-to-measure shirts, suits and shoes - a fashionable, artisanal mecca for every gentleman in the city. Speaking of gentlemen, we meet Luciano Ghinassi, Chef and owner of Buca Lapi, one of Florence’s oldest restaurants famous for its traditional Tuscan menu including the Florentine Steak, known in these parts as La Fiorentina! You can read all about Buca Lapi on page 53 and the Bistecca alla Fiorentina on page 58. Luciano was kind enough to share his recipe for Braised beef with onions which you’ll find on page 79 together with another traditional beef recipe-Peposo, created in the Middle Ages, some say by Brunelleschi.

If you are looking to explore, take a visit to the town famous for its beautifully handcrafted knives, Scarperia. If you love antiques then you must visit the oldest antique fair in Arezzo held for the last forty-five years on the first Sunday of the month. And if you’re looking for something with a bit more action, you can always go skiing in Tuscany at the nearby Apennines.

Stay warm and enjoy your Winter in Tuscany!

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CONTENTS VISIT

ARTISAN

SCARPERIA - page 27

STEFANO BEMER & SARTORIA VESTRUCCI- page 16

Scarperia was founded by the Republic of Florence on the 8th of September, 1306 and has fully earned its name as the “town of knives”.

Ever since it was founded, the town has always shown its particular talent for crafting “cutting tools” and this ancient art form has made the town famous the world over.

The Florentine heritage of traditional, artisanal, handmade products is being protected and preserved in the heart of the San Niccolò neighbourhood where the Stefano Bemer workshop has had a recent makeover to offer a completely authentic, top-to-tail bespoke service, sharing their workroom and showroom with Sartoria Vestrucci.

ART

AREZZO - page 32 One of Tuscany’s treasures, seeped with tradition, where literature, art, architecture and history sit perfectly alongside each other is the beautiful town of Arezzo. Also home to the oldest antique fair in Italy, this charming town is one with many hidden gems to discover.

UBERTO BONETTI - page 46

CARNEVALE - page 42 Carnival celebrations are held all over Italy from Venice and Milan down to the villages and towns of Sicily with many of the biggest celebrations on Martedi Grasso (Mardi Gras) or Fat Tuesday. Second only to the famous festivities held in Venice, the Carnival of Viareggio dates back to 1873 and seems to get bigger each year.

SKIING in Tuscany - page 38 If you are visiting Tuscany during Winter and want to find the nearest place to ski, you wont have to travel far. The Apennines are home to many modern ski resorts from the bigger area of Abetone Val di Luce and Monte Amiata, to the smaller resorts of Garfagnana and Zum Zeri in Lunigiana. v

Meet the Guarnieri brothers, owners of the Art Gallery Studio Iguarnieri, one of the most well known studio of local artists in Florence who have been creating their original fresco art in Florence for over forty years.

EXPERIENCE

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I GUARNIERI - page 22

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Uberto Bonetti was a futurist painter, graphic artist and designer who is well known for his incredible art and posters advertising the Viareggio Carnevale and for being the creator of the clown-like character Burlamacco, who presides over the carnival and is the town’s mascot.

COCKTAILS - page 94 BLACK MARGARITA & CARNIVAL IN A CUP Celebrate Carnival and keep warm over the winter months with these cocktails by Thomas Martini.

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FEATURES

RECIPES

BUCA LAPI - page 52

PEPOSO - page 77

Buca Lapi, named after its founding owner is one of those places that needs no introduction. Located in the wine cellars of Palazzo Antinori, Buca Lapi is the oldest running restaurant in Florence, dating back to 1880. We meet owner & Chef, Luciano Ghinassi & discover waht makes this ‘buca’ so special.

BRASATO DI MUSCOLO - page 79

BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA - page 58 There is nothing quite like your first Florentine steak, known quite simply in these parts as ‘La Fiorentina’ and if you are a meat-lover, then you must try a Bistecca alla Fiorentina in the city where from where it takes its name.

CHIANINA - page 60 The oldest cattle breed in the world and the king of the Tuscany when it comes to the famous Florentine steak. We take a closer look at what is involved in the breeding of this beautiufl bovine.

CINTA SENESE - page 64

Beef Pepper Stew.

Braised muscle with onions

FRITELLE DI RISO - page 80 Fried rice pudding balls

CENCI - page 82

Fried pastry carnival treats

SCHIACCIATA ALLA FIORENTINA - page 84

This indigenous breed of pig, once at risk of extinction is now on the incline thanks to the dedication of a group of local breeders determined to preserve the unique characteristics that make this Tuscan pig so special.

Florentine sponge cake

PANFORTE - page 86

Spiced Italian fruitcake

LARDO DI COLONNATA - page 68 Colonnata, located 550 metres above sea level and nestled between marble quarries and chestnut woods has produced lardo for many years. This delicacy now served at the finest tables was originally a humble accompaniment eaten with bread and the staple diet of the miners who worked in the nearby marble quarries of Carrara.

SFINCI, FRITELLE DI ZUCCA - page 88 Pumpkin doughnuts

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CONTRIBUTORS CHEF

Arturo Dori Arturo Dori, private chef, sommelier and gourmet extraordinaire shares his incredible knowledge each month with one of his signature Florentine dishes.

In 1994 he opened his own restaurant Il Cavolo Nero in his native city of Florence and for the next fifteen years Il Cavolo Nero, was known as one of Florence’s most highly-regarded restaurants.

In March 2009 Arturo Dori decided to embark on a new experience, that of offering his chef services directly in people’s homes. He has since gone on to train the kitchen staff at some of the best kitchens in Florence, and has worked as a private chef for high profile clients that include, Zubin Mehta, singer Tony Bennet, Moby and Jimmy Kimmel. In 2014, he also had the honor of cooking for His Holiness the Dalai Lama. An eclectic experimenter and passionate observer, he now works as a home chef for exclusive private clients and offers private and group cooking classes at Desinare Cooking School in Florence. www.arturodori.com

STYLIST & FOOD BLOGGER Toni Brancatisano

Toni Brancatisano was brought up in Australia by her Calabrian father and her English mother, surrounded by boxes of fresh produce (her father Joe has a wholesale fruit & vegetable business), and amazing food prepared by her culinary talented mother. Even though she became a Registered Nurse after school, her passion for food led her to Italy where she has lived since 1998. Spending 14 years in Tuscany, Toni is now based in Rome where her work and life revolves around ‘la buona cucina’! She has hosted several TV series on the Italian food channel, Gambero Rosso, & has appeared on radio, in Italy and Australia. Her first book on cake decorating was published in 2012. Toni decorates cakes and caters for special clients, she has often acted as Master of Ceremonies for various company events and has also collaborated with Tourism Australia and the Australian Embassy. Toni conducts specialised food tours, does private, exclusive catering and has worked as a food stylist for International brands. www.tonibrancatisano.com

BARMAN

Thomas Martini

Thomas Martini - with a name like that, it seems like destiny played her card in Thomas’s future!

Following in the footsteps of his famous father, a well known professional barman for more than forty years, Thomas decided to study the craft himself. He remembers his fascination with the style, elegance and dim lights of the cocktail bar while growing up observing his father.

He has worked at some of the best hotels and bars in Italy from the Grand Hotel Cristallo in Cortina D’Ampezzo to the Principe di Piemonte in Viareggio. He perfected his skills, classic style and master technique as barman and was eventually lured to the iconic Harry’s Bar Firenze in 2013.

Thomas’s philosophy is simple; respect the original recipes & stay loyal to the drink. While he is open to new ideas and innovations, he maintains his classic style, naturally inherited from his father which have made him one of the most respected barman in Italy today. www.harrysbarfirenze.com

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EXPERIENCE

Experience This Tuscan Life for an insiders guide to Tuscany. create your personalised visit to some of the regions best trattorias, artisan studios and boutiques.

Food, FashioN, ARTISAN & PERSONAL SHOPPING WALKS www.thistuscanlife.com

info@thistuscanlife.com

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IO PARLO ITALIANO ITALIAN

ENGLISH

Inverno - Winter Neve

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Snow

Montagna

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Mountain

Sciare

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to Ski

Scarpe

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Shoes

Sarto

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Tailor

Bistecca - Steak Ciccia

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Tuscan for meat

Pittore

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Artist / painter

Come va?

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How are you (informal)

Ghiaccio - Ice Freddo

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Cold

Vento

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Wind

Maschera - Mask Coltello - Knife Gentiluomo -

Gentleman

Brasato - Braised Buca

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MANICURE & PEDICURE

WEDDING PACKAGES

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WAVE FIRENZE Via S.Spirito, 27 50125 Firenze (FI) – Italy Tel: +39 055 265 4650 Fax: +39 055 267 8164 www.wavefirenze.it This Tuscan Life v

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BEMER & VESTRUCCI

A tale of two Artisans

The Florentine heritage of traditional, artisanal, handmade products is being protected and preserved in the heart of the San Niccolò neighbourhood where the Stefano Bemer workshop has had a recent makeover to offer a completely authentic, top-to-tail bespoke service, sharing their workroom and showroom with Sartoria Vestrucci. As was the way for all Florentine gentlemen once upon a time, aficionados of mens tailoring will have found their mecca here.

The new space showcases not only the Stefano Bemer luxury collection of hand-made shoes but now you can complete your outfit under the same roof with a visit to master tailor, Loris Vestrucci. Sartoria Vestrucci, previously located in Via Maggio has made the move to the San Niccolò neighbourhood, setting up their new workshop alongside Bemer mirroring their successful set-up in Manhattan.

Stefano Bemer is remembered as one of Florence’s most well-known shoemakers and his legend lives on at the workshop and school that bear his name.

For those of you that don’t know the story of Stefano Bemer, his career in shoes began in 1982 when he started doing shoe repairs in Greve, Chianti after the town cobbler died. A local aristocrat showed Bemer his collection of John Lobb shoes and inspired, Bemer moved to Florence to train under one of the last old-time Florentine custom shoemakers. In 1983 after also studying design, he set out on his own.

His first small studio was located in the historic Oltrarno area of San Frediano where his custom made shoes developed a loyal following, especially with the Japanese whose appreciation of the artisan craft inspired Stefano Bemer to open his first flagship store in Tokyo. The classic shoes were shipped with a brush set in a monogrammed wooden wine box which is still how they are shipped today. Stefano’s clients included the actor, Andy Garcia, singer Julio Iglesias and designer, Gianfranco Ferré.

It is no secret that Stefano also trained Daniel Day-Lewis in the art of shoemaking. Bemer often recalled the day the Oscar-winning actor stopped by while on holiday in Tuscany to ask him about his shoes. The next day – and for the following eight months between 1999 and 2000 – the actor showed up at 8am every morning to work as an apprentice.

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London based shoe designer Justin Fitzpatrick also learnt his trade at Stefano’s side.

Sadly, Stefano Bemer died prematurely after a long illness in 2012 at just forty-eight years old.

The next chapter of Stefano Bemer’s brand and company was started thanks to the shoemaker’s friend, Tommaso Melani, fourth generation owner of the luxury handbag company and leather-making school, Scuola del Cuoio. Situated inside the Basilica di Santa Croce, it was initially established in partnership with Franciscan friars to help teach the underprivileged and war orphans a trade.

Tommaso Melani met with Cristina, the associate designer at Stefano Bemer, who was Stefano’s partner not only in design but also in life. Tommaso explained his vision of training the finest bespoke shoemakers, carrying on the legacy of Stefano - who was also known for his generosity of sharing his knowledge with his apprentices and students. Stefano not only strived to make the perfect shoe himself but was also deeply committed to teaching the art of shoemaking to others.

With the help of Scuola del Cuoio, the Stefano Bemer company initiated a training program that gives those who wish to acquire shoemaking skills a chance to learn and practice from their own team of experts. The course is divided into three segments and is designed to teach all the necessary skills to create handmade shoes from start to finish. If you display the talent required, you may be lucky enough to be selected to move into the master workshop and continue your learning with the master shoemakers. Thanks to Stefano’s initial commitment, and the continued commitment of Tommaso Melani, the brand-name is associated with the highest standard of Italian elegance and quality and is synonymous for both style and refinement.

It is once again thanks to Tommaso Melani that Sartoria Vestrucci is still a part of Florentine men’s couture. Five years after acquiring Stefano Bemer, Melani learned that his personal tailor, Loris Vestrucci was retiring. As with Bemer, Melani thought it would be a shame if the legacy of this Florentine master-tailor was lost and so implemented a plan to preserve Vestrucci’s know-how. He convinced Vestrucci to continue working, focusing only on creating his unique Florentine artisan garments promising him all the resources,

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CEO Tommaso Melani left with Tommaso Capozzoli, partner and brand ambassador at Sartoria Vestrucci,

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Master Tailor, Mr Loris Vestrucci,

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space and trainees he needed. Together Melani and Vestrucci founded Sartoria Vestrucci, an authentic Florentine men’s couture company. Deciding to put quality first and preserve handmade, traditional Florentine style, artisanship and tailoring, the Sartoria offers three lines and it’s important to understand the difference between a made-to-order and a made-to-measure garment. The former is made expressly for a client who can choose the fabric and style details such as type of buttons and pattern. The latter offers the style choices of made-to-order, with the addition of being made to your body measurements and altered to give a custom fit. There is also a ready-to-wear collection available, ready to be bought either online or in-store.

The beautiful new home of Stefano Bemer and now Sartoria Vestrucci was once a church, before being deconsecrated and becoming the workshop of a wrought-iron artisan for many years. It was then sold to the Melani family before being fully restored to house the Stefano Bemer workshop, school, and retail showroom.

The new space is now set on three beautifully designed floors. A window has been cut into the ceiling to offer unique views from the first floor to the ground-floor and workshop below where artisans work on their hand-made shoes in full-view. On the same ground floor separated by a divider are the tailors. The same aesthetic for the shoes and apparel flows into the interior design, offering a unique, luxury experience in an elegant location dedicated to the preservation of some of the best Florentine artisans.

The historic building features original large wooden doors that open up into a welcoming entrance wall lined with shoelasts. Passing tourists can’t help but stop and admire the workshop, spellbound by the work and craftsmanship of the artisans.

A bespoke, hand-made pair of shoes will take an average of six to eight weeks of work, before refitting and then final deliver is three months later. Prices start at €3000 for your first bespoke pair depending on the skin and style of shoe. The ready-to-wear models start at €1200.

Your made-to-measure suit will take around the same time to complete as the shoes, usually requiring one or two fittings before completion. Prices depend on the fabric chosen but a ready-to-wear suit can cost anywhere from €2000 - €5000 and a made-to-measure will start at €4000.

Once your measurements have been taken, your shoe last and garment patterns will remain on file so you can easily order a new pair of shoes or suit even if you live abroad. Many of Bemer and Vestrucci’s most loyal clients live internationally and are more than willing to wait patiently for their garments and shoes as they know the high quality product they’ll receive is well worth the wait and will last them for many years, even becoming a second skin as it moulds to the body, fitting even better with time.

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Top photo - artisans at work. below left : double monk strap below right : classic brogue lace-up

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The stunning location of Stefano Bemer & Sartoria Vestrucci

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Beautiful fabrics to choose from combined with the highest standard of traditional tailoring.

Top : A wall of lasts greet you when you enter the premises of Stefano Bemer.

Below : A few of the uniquely Florentine, Stefano Bemer shoes available

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Top : The colourful exterior of Iguarnieri on Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini.

Below : Brothers Roberto & Rodolfo Guarnieri with fellow artist Romano Bacci in their Florence studio.

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Opposite page Top : Roberto & Rodolfo painting together in Australia.

Below : The first steps of the ‘Art Experience’

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i Guarnieri

creating original art in the Renaissance city.

Art is everywhere you look in Florence and the city has been a constant inspiration to artists for centuries. Today, it is also home to many very talented contemporary artists and as you walk along the river towards the San Niccolò tower, you can’t help but notice and admire the art of Iguarnieri which decorates the outside walls of their studio creating an outdoor gallery.

Brothers Roberto and Rodolfo Guarnieri, co-founders of the Art Gallery Studio Iguarnieri were born in Florence respectively in 1956 and 1963. The Guarnieri family workshop, located on the Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, was established in 1944 in the San Niccolò neighbourhood by their father who was a carpenter. Roberto would go on to become an architect while Rodolfo studied and later taught art. Together they would turn their father’s workshop into their art studio where they have been creating their contemporary works of art for nearly twenty years.

“Our creative perception is to represent artistic themes in the humanity around us, with a Florentine influence. The old master’s work is the foundation always of our making art in painting as in sculpture.”

Their paintings are bright, large and bold - beautiful representations of Florence, terracotta city rooftops, Tuscan poppies represented in giant primary hues and the most famous icon of the city, the Duomo. They use traditional fresco techniques with modern materials, inspired by their love of the great artists in history from Botticelli, Modigliani and Picasso to Turner and Andy Warhol. The most unique detail about their work though is that they create the pieces together as co-artists, creating paintings and sculptures with a perfect creative and compositional synergy and harmony. This style of working with multiple hands is inspired by the ideal of the Florentine workshops of the Renaissance.

Today, many Iguarnieri paintings can be found in private and public collections around the world. They also started traveling in 2005, painting “on site” frescos in not only Florence and other cities of Italy but also internationally. The brothers also recently returned from a successful art tour in Australia.

Art lovers and collectors from around the world come here to buy something special and unique. They also come here to take part in the many workshops and art experiences that the Guarnieri studio offer. From sketching, watercolour and fresco lessons for individuals and or groups, you can take part in a special masterclass to understand the whole process of creating your very own masterpiece.

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www.iguarnieri.it

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www.iguarnieri.it

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Palazzo dei Vicari, is a 14th century structure that has undergone numerous transformations and renovations throughout the centuries. The facade is decorated with the coats of arms of the different families that held office there throughout the ages.

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Scarperia The Town of Knives The ancient medieval town of Scarperia is a lovely Tuscan town that can be reached easily for a quick day trip from Florence. Scarperia was founded by the Republic of Florence on the 8th of September, 1306 and has fully earned its name as the “town of knives”. Ever since it was founded, the town has always shown its particular talent for crafting “cutting tools” and this ancient art form has made the town famous the world over.

Scarperia borders the municipalities of Barberino di Mugello and Borgo San Lorenzo and is located 31km from Florence and 90km from Bologna.

It was here, at the foot of the Giogo Pass (Passo del Giogo), along the road that ploughed through the Apennines, linking Florence with Bologna, that the powerful municipal authority of Florence identified an ideal location for the construction of a new castle, to be called “Castel San Barnaba”. Whether it was due to its location at the “shoe” (scarpa in Italian) of the Apennines, or to the steep (ria in Tuscan) climb up to the Pass, the name Scarperia probably derives from a contraction of these two-word associations.

For more than two centuries, blades from Scarperia were renowned as being of unrivalled quality, but when – in the 18th century – the nobles of the House of Lorraine commissioned the construction of a new, more northerly road (called Strada Statale della Futa) to afford easier access to Bologna (and, therefore, also to the Padanian plain and the rest of Europe), the ancient Giogo Pass

suffered a rapid decline in popularity, cut off, as it now was, from the vital flow of traffic. A period of deep crisis ensued. It was only in the second half of the 19th century that Scarperia’s knives and cutlery started to experience increasing demand. With the unification of Italy came numerous orders from all over the country, and particularly from the south.

In 1908, the law prohibiting the sale and use of springknives longer than the palm of one’s hand was another blow to the knife-making trade but it managed to survive through alternate avenues until its comeback in recent decades.

In the 1980s, the cutting irons museum was inaugurated and several exhibitions were staged, in a concerted attempt to promote the rediscovery of Scarperia’s ancient art. As a result, the reputation for the quality of the knives made in Scarperia was consolidated once again, and they are now rightly celebrated throughout the world.

In 1993, Scarperia was officially twinned with the French town of Laguiole, also famous for its knife-making. For the tenth anniversary as twin towns, the deed of friendship was renewed in Scarperia in June and in October in Laguiole.

We visited three of the most well known family-run companies during our visit to Scarperia, each talking about their knives with such passion and pride, which is understandable when you learn of the hours and skill that goes into making one knife.

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Coltellerie berti

Saladini

Handmade Knives Since 1895

Coltellinai in Scarperia

Coltellerie Berti began crafting knives in 1895. The company was founded by David Berti and has been producing hand crafted knives for four generations…first at the hands of David then his son, Severino, followed by his son, Alvaro and up to the present day with Alvaro’s son, Andrea. The Berti family have continued its tradition in the same place with the same, almost religious observance of the craftsman art handed down from father to son for more than 100 years.

“The Saladini family was already working as master knifemakers in Scarperia in 1841, as we can see from the historical archives of the parish church of Fagna.

In 1984, Leonardo Saladini, embarked upon his adventure as a knifemaker with his uncle Marcello Azzini’s company. Over time, he learnt the methods and secrets of the trade and in 1995 began his project, opening in 1997 the Saladini cutler’s shop in the workshop on Via Solferino, a historic road which was home to many cutler’s shops in the past.

In 2002, Giacomo Cecchi joined Saladini. During his studies in architecture design, between 1996 and 1998 he took part in two vocational courses to teach young people valuable lessons about the art of cutting tools, achieving certificates as a “master knifemaker” and in “artistic metal work”.

The masters who taught Giacomo were Marcello Azzini and Renzo Berti, two genuine master knifemakers with refined ingenuity and precision, who knew how to pass on their art, turning it into a passion for the trade.”

“At Coltellerie Berti each knife is produced by the hands of one craftsman, the same person Whoever starts it, finishes it.”

And in the essence of this method, the artisans of the Berti family have continued since 1895 to maintain that the authentic Lame Nobili di Scarperia tradition of manual work is what gives the real joy of owning a true craft knife.

For generations, the Consigli family has been leveraging its passion and expertise It is with this tradition that today every to produce high-quality traditional TusBerti knife carries the engraved initials can pocket-knives and cutlery, using the on the blade of the artisan who made it.” same forging techniques that the master Andrea Berti knifemakers of Scarperia have been refining since the 14th century. www.coltellerieberti.it Currently, alongside its typically Italian models, which represent the perfect syn- www.coltelleriasaladini.it thesis of tradition, technique, elegance and refinement, the company also produces high-quality table and kitchen cutlery that is expertly finished using noble materials like cow and buffalo horn and also olive wood. The Consigli family is totally committed to authentic steel-working techniques and to the preservation of the values of manual processing. Now that Luigi Consigli has reached his wellearned retirement, Enrico is supported by his children Elena and Pietro. They are determined to meet the challenge of safeguarding the company’s artisanal traditions while remaining faithful to the ideals that lay behind the creation of their company more than half a century before.

Consigli

www.consigliscarperia.it

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photo : Coltelleria Saladini

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The ‘Insieme’ collection by Coltellerie Berti

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Coltelleria Saladini

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VISIT

Arezzo

One of Tuscany’s treasures, seeped with tradition, where literature, art, architecture and history sit perfectly alongside each other is the beautiful town of Arezzo. If you are looking for an alternative city that is of great artistic and cultural importance then you have to come here.

Arezzo offers an interesting mix of art and Medieval, Gothic and Renaissance architecture. The sixteenth-century portico known as the Logge Vasariane spans one side of the Piazza Grande and was designed in 1573 by native son of the city, architect Giorgio Vasari.

Known for its famous antique markets and the Piero della Francesca frescoes, in December the city is also known as the ‘City of Christmas’. The whole month is dedicated to many Christmas markets and the Piazza Grande is transformed by a stunning light installation that decorates every palazzo in the square.

The antique fair is one of the most popular events in the province of Arezzo and has been held for the last forty-five years on the first Sunday of the month (and the previous Saturday of that same weekend). Here you can find all sorts

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of treasures, from tables, artwork, carpets, prints and books to jewellery and hats.

The first ever edition was held on the 2nd of June, in 1968, on the occasion of Republic Day. It was the first event of its kind in Italy, organized by local antique dealer, Ivan Bruschi, who was inspired by the famous open markets of Portobello in London and the flea markets of Paris. Visitors from all over the world flock here every month in search of that special antique, from enthusiasts to professionals searching for rare and curious pieces to people who just love admiring the art objects, furniture, bijoux and other collectibles that line the beautiful streets of Arezzo.

If you are not fond of antiques, you can also find many vintage as well as modern crafts and if you are a fan of cinema, you might recognise the cathedral which was the backdrop in a scene of the 1997 Oscar-winning film “Life Is Beautiful.”

Best-actor winner Roberto Benigni, who created and starred in the movie, was born nearby and used Arezzo locations throughout the film.

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How to get there :

BY TRAIN The Arezzo train station is served with daily connections via regional trains, intercity and the fast frecciarossa.

BY CAR Arezzo is easily accessible via the Autostrada del Sole (A1 Milan-Naples)exit at Arezzo.

The city is located about 80km from Florence, 90km from Perugia & Siena and 220km from Rome.

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WHAT TO SEE IN AREZZO AREZZO CATHEDRAL The hilltop Arezzo Cathedral is located on the site of a pre-existing Palaeo-Christian church and features painted vaulted ceilings and a 15th-century fresco of Mary Magdalene by Piero della Francesca. The baptismal font relief sculpture is by Donatello.

THE MEDICI FORTRESS Built between 1538 and 1560, the fortress is located within the city walls and was once an impressive five-point structure. Although the stronghold is now just a reminder of the past, you can get a 360-degree view of Arezzo and the surrounding area from atop its walls.

BASILICA OF SAN FRANCESCO Perhaps modest and unassuming on the outside, this medieval church houses Piero della Francesca’s impressive fresco cycle depicting the Legend of the True Cross. To see one of Italy’s most treasured and important pieces of Renaissance art, make sure you book in advance as the entrance tickets sell-out quickly.

CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA DELLA PIEVE The three-tiered façade and the bell tower have earned this church the name “tower of a hundred holes” due to its many windows. But the real attraction of Santa Maria lies inside: visit the crypt to see jewelled artefacts and the bust of San Donato.

THE SARACEN JOUST Each of Arezzo’s neighbourhoods (or quartieri) has their own team of knights who joust twice a year in June and September. The tradition dates to the 16th century, when it was a means of military training, but it now represents a lively social tradition. Tickets range in price, although spectators can watch the procession for free.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM & ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE Built partly atop the ruins of an amphitheatre, this quiet museum displays many cultural gems from the 2nd century and is a great opportunity to walk through ancient history.

MUSEUM OF MEDIEVAL AND MODERN ART Not only does the museum offer an extensive collection of ancient weapons, paintings and pottery, the building itself offers a quaint courtyard and a grand staircase.

CASA VASARI Easily forgotten and overlooked, any art lover should see the elaborate interiors of Giorgio Vasari’s Renaissance home. As well as containing his own work and frescos, the archive contains letters hand written by Michelangelo and Pope Pius V. ‘La Loggia Vasari’, Piazza Grande, Arezzo - Photo Luf

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Andiamo a Sciare IN TUSCANY

Abetone, Apennines

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If you are visiting Tuscany during Winter and want to find the nearest place to ski, you wont have to travel far.

The Apennines are home to many modern ski resorts from the bigger area of Abetone Val di Luce and Monte Amiata, to the smaller resorts of Garfagnana and Zum Zeri in Lunigiana. Mount Amiata is located between the provinces of Siena and Grosseto, in southern Tuscany. During winter, Mount Amiata offers ski lovers a natural setting in one of Europe’s largest beech forests, where from 1984 to 1986, the European Ski Cup for women was held.

The ski resorts of Amiata are second only to Abetone, although slopes are fewer and shorter. Usually pretty crowded during weekends, it is more pleasurable during weekdays. Here you can find twelve slopes with ten kilometres of Alpine skiing and ten kilometres of cross country skiing. A snowboard park is also available but without a half-pipe.

Garfagnana offers a network of three ski resorts, including Passo delle Radici, Careggine and Casone di Profecchia. Careggine offers splendid panoramas and five kilometers of slopes, plus another five for cross country skiing. Casone di Profecchia has two short slopes for beginners and fifteen kilometers of certified cross country skiing paths. Passo delle Radici has one slope and is mainly targeted at beginners and children. These three small resorts are perfect for families. In Lunigiana, across the Tuscan-Emilian Appennine, is the pass of Due Santi and Zum Zeri. In total, here you can find twenty-five kilometres of slopes. The baby playground makes these two destinations perfect for the family with shorter and easier slopes. At 1600 metres high, the view of the Ligurian sea is wonderful, sweeping from the white snow tops to the blue Mediterranean sea.

The town of Abetone is located in northern Tuscany, in the province of Pistoia and is home to one of the most important ski resorts in the Apennines. Abetone offers fifty kilometers of ski slopes for skiing, snowboarding, cross-country skiing and walking trails for snowshoes. There are ski slopes for every level of experience, perfectly divided into blue (for beginners), red (intermediate) and black (for expert). The ski slopes of the ski resort are ideal for both training and fun. Moreover snow is always guaranteed by an artificial snow system which covers 80% of the area.

Access to the slopes is provided by the most modern and efficient ski lifts, while along the slopes you can find typical restaurants where you can stop to eat, take a break and enjoy the stunning scenery. It is a popular location for day-trips thanks to its close proximity to nearby Pistoia and Florence.

Abetone was created as a custom post on the main road from the Grand Duchy of Tuscany and the Duchy of Modena, founded in 1732. The name derives from that of a large tree cut down to allow the construction to proceed. Abetone was a destination for elite tourism, especially after the opening of the new railway line, La Porrettana and starting from the early 20th century, it became a renowned ski resort. Zeno Colò, one of the greatest Italian alpine skiers was born here in 1920 and at the World Championships in 1950 in Aspen, he won gold medals in both downhill and the giant slalom, plus a silver in slalom. Two years later, at the 1952 Olympics in Oslo, he won gold in the downhill, and finished fourth in the giant slalom.

HOW TO GET TO ABETONE Plane Abetone is located near two international airports: Pisa and Florence. then from Florence - about 1 hour and 30 minutes by car. & from Pisa - about 1 hour and 50 minutes by car.

Train The closest station is Pistoia on the Florence line towards Lucca & Viareggio.

Bus Bus service is offered by Blubus from Pistoia or Seta Bus from Modena.

Car From Milan: Take the A1 motorway towards Florence, then near Florence Nord turn into A11 direction Pisa.

Exit at Pistoia. Then take SR66 and then SS12 towards Abetone-Brennero.

From Rome: Take the A1 motorway towards Florence, then near Florence Nord turn into A11 direction Pisa.

Exit at Pistoia. Then take SR66 and then SS12 towards Abetone-Brennero.

From Genova: take the A12 motorway.

Exit at Lucca Ovest.

Then take SS12 Abetone-Brennero.

From Bologna: take the A1 motorway.

Exit at Modena Sud. Then take SS12 Abetone-Brennero.

After his retirement from professional skiing, Colò became a ski instructor in his native Abetone, helping to develop the Pistoia ski resort, and promote the Abetone Ski Company. In 1973, he designed three ski slopes that descend from the Gomito mountain, named Zeno 1, 2, and 3. Abetone is also a regular destination for European cup competitions and has hosted world cups in recent years.

The next time you plan your visit to Tuscany during the Winter months, don’t forget that you can also add a ski-trip to the itinerary, whether you plan to go for a quick day-trip or a week, known in Italy as a ‘settimana bianca.’

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DRINK A BOMBARDINO Stop and energize on the slopes in Tuscany with a Bombardino, the ultimate Italian winter cocktail created in Livigno, a well-known ski resort in the Italian Alps, by a young guy from Genova who had come to manage the Mottolino refuge. Being not quite accustomed to the cold of the mountain winter, he decided to find a solution to help him survive the season. The result is this hot cocktail made with milk, whiskey and eggnog. The story goes that the first person to taste the drink is said to have exclaimed: “Damn! It’s a bombarda! ”, meaning that it was like a bomb and that is how it earned its name.

BOMBARDINO: THE ORIGINAL RECIPE ...

Over time, the recipe has evolved, maintaining only two key points: the alcohol content (up to 30% vol) and the hot eggnog (egg yolk, sugar and Marsala liqueur). Milk has in fact been replaced by cream and the whiskey by brandy. Here is the recipe.

INGREDIENTS 2/3 eggnog, 1/3 Brandy, whipped cream.

PREPARATION In a saucepan, heat the eggnog without bringing it to a boil then remove from the heat and add the brandy.

Pour into a glass and garnish with whipped cream, sprinkled as desired with cocoa powder. .. AND THE VARIANTS There are three variations of the classic bombardino, always with an eggnog base : the “Calimero” (eggnog and espresso coffee), the “Pirata” (with rum instead of brandy) and the “Scozzese” (with whiskey instead of brandy).

You can also use grappa.

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Carnevale The town of Viareggio, on the Versilia coast is home to one of the most impressive Carnival festivals in Italy. Attracting crowds of more than 600,000 people each year, it’s one of the most important and not-to-be-missed dates of the year!

The Viareggio Carnival has become a well established European tradition of carnival festivals, with parades and celebrations that are held for the five weekends before lent begins on Ash Wednesday. Lent has historically been the time before Easter when many Catholics deprive themselves of something they enjoy. The thought is to party, feast abundantly and then spend the period of Lent recovering.

Carnival celebrations are held all over Italy from Venice and Milan down to the villages and towns of Sicily with many of the biggest celebrations on Martedi Grasso (Mardi Gras) or Fat Tuesday.

Second only to the famous festivities held in Venice, the Carnival of Viareggio was born in 1873 with the first parade of festively decorated carriages in the historic Via Regia, the heart of the old town. It was transferred to the Promenade at the beginning of the twentieth century and has grown in size and popularity year after year. In 1954 a big media event was created when the newly founded Radiotelevisione Italiana RAI sent their first outside live TV report from the Carnival of Viareggio. In 1958 the report of the parade was broadcast in Eurovision and nowadays it is the largest Italian folk event with a budget of € 5 million per year.

The Carnival of Viareggio lasts a whole month with day-time and night-time festivities, the famous parades of floats, local parties, masked balls and festivals of all kinds.

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In 1960 the burning of the original shacks in via Cairoli, where the floats were built, failed to put a stop to the Carnival. The float yards were then moved to the hangars in Marco Polo street and then in 2001, an extraordinary architectural complex entirely dedicated to the creation and preservation of the Carnival of Viareggio was inaugurated and known as the new Cittadella del Carnevale. Sixteen hangars, where the “Papier-Mâché Masters” set up the huge Carnival floats, overlook a giant elliptical square. The complex has a specific architectural structure, in addition to the hangars, there is the Carnival museum, Carnevalotto Museum for contemporary art, an historical archive, a restaurant and the big central square, where some of the most important events of Viareggio take place, like summer concerts, parties and dance shows.

These days the Carnival of Viareggio is watched all over Italy as it is broadcast on national television every year. Each year famous guests, politicians and sports figures come to Viareggio to admire their papier - mâché effigies although not all are complimentary!

The Viareggio carnival attracts more than 600,000 people each year so be prepared if you decide to brave the crowds. Getting there by bus or train is probably the best option! The parades take place in a 2km long, ring-like circuit on the seaside avenue, known as La Passeggiata. Here the floats move among the crowds of spectators, who can attend the show with no barriers becoming in turn the pratagonists of the parade.

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Top left : Burlamacco (designed by Uberto Bonetti), the red & whtite clown mascot for Viareggio and the Carnival, shown here on a float together with a tribute to his creator, Uberto Bonetti in 2009.

Top right : the inital stages of the papier machè.

Below image : The floats at the Cittadella hangar where they are created.

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The Winning design of 1931 by Uberto Bonetti featuring Burlamacco for the first time.

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Lucio Venna

Uberto Bonetti

Uberto Bonetti

Uberto Bonetti

Uberto Bonetti

Uberto Bonetti

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Uberto Bonetti

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UBERTO BONETTI

THE ART BEHIND THE VIAREGGIO CARNEVAL

UBERTO BONETTI (Viareggio, 31 January 1909 – 10 April 1993)

Uberto Bonetti was a futurist painter, graphic artist and designer who is well known for his series of aerial works during the 1930’s called the ‘Aeroviste d’Italia’ which depict many Italian territories.

He is also well known for his incredible art posters advertising the Viareggio Carnevale and for being the creator of the clown-like character Burlamacco, who presides over the carnival and is the town’s mascot.

Burlamacco was first depicted in 1931 by Uberto Bonetti when he won a competition to design the mascot for the Carnival. He chose the red and white of the outfit from the traditional colours of the umbrellas on the beachs of Viareggio and the name Burlamacco came 8 years later, derived from the Burlamacca river. To this day Burlamacco remains a feature of the carnival and there is a permanent statue of him on the Lungomare in Viareggio.

Over the years, Uberto Bonetti became known for his caricatures of many famous personalities that were published in some of the most important newspapers of Italy.

He studied architecture in Cararra and during his career also worked in the areas of fashion and sculpture. In the 70’s Bonetti returned to his first love, the difficult techinque of watercolours of which he became un undisputed master. He exhibited with great success in Milan, Florence, Pistoia and naturally Viareggio.

His last great exhibition was organised by the ‘Commune, the Fondazione Carnevale and the Premio Letterario. Held in Palazzo Paolina in Viareggio in 1992 where his 70 years of work were celebrated.

It was to be his last homage. www.ubertobonetti.com

Firenze Aerovista, mixed media on paper.

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Pisa Aerovista, mixed media on paper.

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Papier-Machè Papier-mâché, literally translated means “chewed paper” in French. In Italian the technique is known as Carta Pesta.

This cheap raw material is what is mainly used to form the incredible floats featured at the Carnival of Viareggio.

Also referred to as the ‘paper mould’, Papier Machè was introduced in 1925 by the Viareggio sculptor Antonio d’Arliano, who applied the paper mould technique for the first time on iron and wood scaffolding which make up the base of the carnival floats.

The paper mould allowed huge works to be built, but with the advantage of being light-weight at the same time. Models in clay, plaster casts, newsprint and glue made by flour and water are the simple ingredients of the biggest show of its kind in the world. The philosophy of recovery and recycling using a manual technique only are the basis of the event.

Two main methods are used to prepare papier-mâché; one makes use of paper strips glued together with adhesive, and the other uses paper pulp obtained by soaking or boiling paper to which glue is then added.

With the first method, a form for support is needed on which to glue the paper strips. With the second method, it is possible to shape the pulp directly inside the desired form. In both methods, reinforcements with wire, chicken wire, lightweight shapes, balloons or textiles may be needed.

The traditional method of making papier-mâché adhesive is

to use a mixture of water and flour or other starch, mixed to the consistency of heavy cream. Other adhesives can be used if thinned to a similar texture, such as wood glues. Adding salt to the mixture reduces the chances of the product developing mold.

For the paper strips method, the paper is cut or torn into strips, and soaked in the paste until saturated. The saturated pieces are then placed onto the surface and allowed to dry slowly. The strips may be placed on a skeleton, often of wire mesh over a structural frame, or they can be placed on an object to create a cast. Oil or grease can be used as a release agent if needed.

Once dried, the resulting material can be cut, sanded and/ or painted, and waterproofed by painting with a suitable water-repelling paint. Before painting any product of papier-mâché, the glue must be fully dried, otherwise mold will form and the product will rot from the inside out.

For the pulp method, the paper is left in water at least overnight to soak, or boiled in abundant water until the paper dissolves in a pulp. The excess water is drained, an adhesive is added and the papier-mâché applied to a form or, especially for smaller or simpler objects, sculpted to shape.

For those who would like to test their skills in this field, today this knowledge, handed down from generation to generation is available at quick, fun workshops in Viareggio at the Cittadella museum.

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A cold February morning in Florence on the Ponte Vecchio.

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Chianti Wine Cart in the courtyard of Palazzo Antinori

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Wine Window at Buca Lapi, via del Trebbio

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BUCA LAPI

not your average hole-in-the-wall

Buca Lapi, named after its founding owner is one of those places that needs no introduction. Located in the wine cellars of Palazzo Antinori, Buca Lapi, is the oldest running restaurant in Florence, dating back to 1880. It was opened as a trattoria and mescita / wine bar when the Antinori family hired Orazio Lapi as the “tavern keeper”. As the wine cellars were underground, they were known as a hole or ‘buca’ in Italian. And so the Antinoris called the trattoria after Orazio Lapi - Buca Lapi.

The palazzo is a typical example of Renaissance architecture, built between 1461 and 1469, by Italian architect, Giuliano da Maiano, an apprentice of Brunelleschi. Over the years the building belonged to important Florentine families such as the Bonis and the Martellis, until February 2nd in 1506 when it was acquired by Tommaso Antinori, one of the most promising and influential men in Florence for 4000 florins.

Local Florentines have been coming here loyaly for years but it’s not just the food that makes this restaurant so popular, it’s the old fashioned hospitality of owner and Chef Luciano Ghinassi, a native to the city who passion for the best quality ingredients and traditional recipes is reflected in every plate on the menu. A renowned and talented chef, Luciano worked for Lapi (Orazio’s son) as a boy for many years. He would then go on to own four restaurants in Florence before being offered the business by Lapi when he retired in 1995. He is attentive, obsessed with the best quality ingredients and oversees the open kitchen with passion. The kitchen is visible because “looking is as important as tasting”, he says. And come to look and taste they do as his fully booked tables testify every day.

Luciano offers a classic, traditional Tuscan menu featuring homemade pastas, slow braised meats, trippa alla Fiorentina, delicious seasonable vegetable dishes and of course, they are famous for their Florentine steak. Luciano uses Chianina, Marchigiana, Maremmana and Romagnolo but his favourite meat is Black Angus from Ireland. He proudly shows off his beautiful steaks lined up in the kitchen as he explains that

the Fiorentina steak is a serious subject here. He only buys the best qualtiy meat and swears by his grill which uses olive wood coals. The steak is served at the table on heavy wooden chopping boards, sliced in front of the customers into large pieces depending on the number of people at the table.

Buca Lapi was a favourite with foreigners as early as the 1920’s when patrons would spend entire evenings there listening to ballad singers. During the 1960’s, it was the place to be seen, the home of the Florentine ‘dolce vita’ and I’m sure if the walls could talk, they would have many fascinating stories to tell!

Famous customers include Prince Ranier and his wife, the former Grace Kelly who dined at Buca Lapi during their honeymoon. Emperor Akihito who would dine at Buca Lapi in 1963 when he was Crown Prince and return again forty years later in 2003.

In 1950, Joan Fontaine and Joseph Cotten filmed September Affairs here.

The walls and arched ceiling in the large dining room are decorated with colorful vintage travel posters from all over the world. Luciano tells me that in the early years, writers and artists would draw and write on the paper placemats, which were then stuck on the walls. Travel posters then took over the walls but the lampshades are still covered in graffiti and it’s quite interesting reading. There are also beautiful frescos on the walls which were meticulously restored after being damaged in the Florence flood of 1966. The water would recede that same evening but it was months before the trattoria would dry out enough to start the clean-up and restoration.

Buca Lapi is one of those places that is a joy for the senses.

From the original, historic decor, the traditional, authentic and exceptional quality of the Tuscan menu to the charming, old fashioned hospitality of Luciano Ghinassi and his staff, spending time here will be one of those truly Florentine experiences that you wont forget.

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Chef and owner of Buca Lapi, Luciano Ghinassi

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From Top • Grace Kelly & Prince Ranier lunching during their honeymoon at Buca Lapi • 1927 Postcard of Buca Lapi • Japanese Crown Prince Akihito in 1963

From Top • During filming af September Affairs in 1950 • 1927 Postcard of Buca Lapi • Japanese Emperor Akihito returns in 2003

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The beautiful dining room of Buca Lapi which features vintage travelposters and frescos

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La BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA The tradition, the rules and the ritual of the Florentine Steak Where to eat the best Fiorentina in Tuscany Everyone has their favourite trattoria where to eat the famous Bistecca alla Fiorentina.

Here are some of our favourites.

There is nothing quite like your first Florentine steak, known quite simply in these parts as ‘La Fiorentina’ and if you are a meat-lover, then you must try a Bistecca alla Fiorentina in the city where from where it takes its name.

It is said the word bistecca came from the English words beef-steak and it was the Florentines who ‘Italianized’ the word by adding a vowel at the end as they had a habit of doing with foreign words. So beef-steak became ‘bistecca’ but when we talk about the Fiorentina, it is defined by specific details.

It is a T-bone, from the loin area of a fully grown Tuscan bovine, also known as a vitellone (bull calf), between 12-24 months old and cut 3-4 fingers thick - (although many Florentines will joke that anything cut less than 4-fingers thick is carpaccio!) Others say that 4-fingers is too thick as the meat will remain cold and uncooked on the inside, so as you can imagine, there are many heated debates about how a Fiorentina steak should be prepared. A Fiorentina must be cooked rare over a wood or charcoal fire, using non-resinous coals from hardwood such as oak or olive.

There are many that say that the choice of breed for the Fiorentina must be the Chianina, but other breeds such as the Maremmana, Romagnola, Marchigiana and also Black Angus are very popular and acceptable. As long as the meat is lean and does not contain too much veined fat throughout, then it will give a good result as the Fiorentina must be eaten rare.

Long ageing of the meat is also most important as this process consists in breaking down the meat’s connective tissue to make it more tender and create a stronger concentration of flavour.

The steak needs to be cut with a sharp, smooth blade, never a serrated edge and the traditional Fiorentina includes the filetto on one side of the ‘T-bone’ and the contro-filetto on the other side.

It must be cooked at room temperature and so removed from the fridge as much as 24 hours prior to cooking. The Fiorentina is then cooked for 5 minutes on each side and then 5 minutes standing upright on the bone to drive the heat in from below as well. It is seasoned with salt & pepper only and only drizzled with a good quality extra-virgin olive oil once it has been sliced and served.

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BUCA LAPI Via del Trebbio, 1r tel +39 055 213768 TRATTORIA COCO LEZZONE Via Parioncino 26r, Florence Tel +39 055 287 178 BUCA MARIO Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16r Florence tel +39 055 214 179 BUCA DELL’ORAFO Via dei Girolami, 28r Florence +39 055 213 619 TRATTORIA SOSTANZA Via del Porcellana, 25r Florence Tel +39 055 212 691 PERSEUS Viale Don Giovanni Minzoni, 10r Florence tel +39 055 588 226 LA GIOSTRA Borgo Pinti, 10r-18r Florence tel +39 055 241 341 OSTERIA DELL’ENOTECA Via Romana, 70r Florence Tel +39 055 228 6018

OFFICINA DELLA BISTECCA Via XX Luglio, 11 Panzano in Chianti (FI) Tel +39 055 852 020 ANTICA OSTERIA Di NANDONE Via del Giogo, 3 Scarperia e San Piero (FI) tel +39 055 846 198 RISTORANTE MARISA Via del Lago, 21 Barberino del Mugello (FI) tel +39 055 842 0045

photo : Buca Lapi

A Fiorentina Steak must be at least 3-4 finger-widths thick otherwise it’s just not a Bistecca alla Fiorentina!

Don’t ask for it to be cooked any more than Rare!

Bistecca on the grill at Buca Lapi, Florence

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CHIANINA The oldest cattle breed in the world and the king of the Tuscany when it comes to the famous Florentine steak.

The Chianina, known in English as the Central Apennine White Bullock is one of the largest and oldest cattle breeds in the world and one of five Italian breeds raised for its meat.

The other breeds are Maremmana, Marchigiana, Romagnola and Podolica.

The Chianina breed has been around for at least 2,500 years and takes its name from the Val di Chiana, where it is bred. It is also bred in the regions of Umbria, the Marche and Upper Lazio. It derives from the ox as depicted in the most ancient engravings found in prehistoric caves. It was such an important beast that the Romans and Etruscans used it in triumphal processions after war victories and conquests. It was also the perfect driving force as with its weight and strength it was suitable for towing and moving demanding loads. A large part of the restoration and reclamation of the Val di Chiana, which occurred between the 18th and 19th centuries was carried out thanks to the strength of this special bovine.

You will often see these impressive yet docile animals in historical parades in Tuscany and it is these strong beasts that pull the famous 9 meter tall Brindellone cart through the streets on Easter Sunday for the ‘Scoppio del Carro’ celebration. A Chianina was also the prize historically given to the winning team of the Calcio Storico Fiorentino / historical soccer game in Florence.

Chianina provide excellent meat, being rather lean with minimal fat close to the musculature that give it its flavour. The best Chianina meat is obtained from the female of the animal, the so-called Scottona, both for its tenderness and for its dimensions which are not too large but the meat from a pure Chianina is produced by male and female cattle aged between 12 and 24 months.

It is an animal that is bred with healthy and organic methods of the past and must follow certain disciplines to obtain its IGP / Indicazione Geografica Protetta or Protected Geographical Indication certification (which guarantees the geographical origin, breeding and processing practice.) The specification is rigid, from the classification of goods, the

Happy Chianina at the Fattoria Poggio Alloro, San Gimignano

The Chianina are remembered and known above all for their size: the withers of these animals in oxen and cows reach

about 140-150 centimeters, while in bulls it reaches impressive heights, from 180 centimeters up to an impressive height of 2 meters. The most famous Chianina bull, named Donetto holds the record in post-war times as the heaviest bull ever raised in Italy, weighing a whopping 1,780kg at just eight years of age.

The coat of the Chianina is typically porcelain white, but this color is only achieved after the first year of age, as the calves are born a beautiful sandy beige colour. In the past the Chianina was principally used as a draught breed, but now it is raised mainly for beef and is the breed of choice of most chefs in Tuscany for the famous Florentine steak known as the Bistecca alla Fiorentina.

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rules on the type of breeding and feeding, all ensuring the best welfare of the animal. To be compliant, each specimen must be registered at birth in the Young Cattle Register and must bear the identification mark required by the current rules of the herd book. The discipline dictates that calves must feed from the mother until weaning. After this, the food base must come from natural meadows and herbaceous crops typical of the area. The Chianina cow lives very well in the pasture as is outlined in the discipline. In general, the breed, due to its characteristics, does not adapt particularly well to intensive breeding, in fact, only in the months prior to slaughter is it possible to use a fixed enclosure. The most widespread breeding system in Val di Chiana is the sedentary or tied type, with the animal tied to the manger so that it doesn’t develop too much muscle which renders the meat too tough. It should be fed on a natural diet, based on natural grazing at pasture, organic barley, corn and spelt. Among the prohibited foods are substances such as estrogens, anabolics, antibiotics, corticosteroids and arsenical products that can be harmful. The aim is obviously to obtain a superior quality of meat.

The meat that is placed on the market must be provided with the mark that certifies its origin and the denomination of PGI of the White Veal of the Central Apennines. The identification of the meat is displayed through the presence of the particular mark that is branded with fire which must be carried out at the slaughterhouse, by a figure appointed by the control bodies. The IGP certificate should be displayed by your butcher or available on request. It states the date of birth, weight and sex of the animal as well as its breeder, butcher and date it was butchered. The IGP and 5R logos are also present on the certificate.

Various cuts are used from the Chianina cow, and in short, nothing is thrown away as the Chianina meat cuts are pre-

cious and all excellent but in order to cut two dozen Fiorentina steaks out of the loin, butchers need to sell a huge amount of the less noble cuts, the forequarter parts, and this is one of the reasons why it is so expensive.

It is the only red meat that does not produce ‘bad’ cholesterol, as shown in a study by Professor Mario Lucifero and in a piece of research by the University of Perugia. The reason for this ‘healthy fat’ found in its marbled meat can be attributed to its late maturation as it grows twice as slow as a French breed. It is important that its growth rate and weight gain proceed at a healthy, regular pace as explained by nutritionist Lia Prosperi, “a well-balanced growth gives meat with a lower cholesterol content. In Chianina meat we also find a fair amount of conjugated linoleic acid, a polysaturated fatty acid which, due to its chemical structure, performs immune-stimulating and antioxidant functions in our body.”

Some critics will say that as the Chianina is a draught breed, its meat is tough which is true and so in order for the meat to be tender and flavoursome, the ageing or hanging process, known as the frollatura in Italian, is crucial. I would hear the word ‘frollatura’ many times when speaking to different chefs and butchers about their Fiorentina steak. The meat must hang for at least 20-30 days at a controlled temperature of between zero and two degrees and 80% humidity to improve the meats flavour and texture. The Chianina also develop a thick layer of fat around their loin area thanks again to its slow growth rate which prevents the meat from oxidizing during the hanging process.

The Chianina breed, with its ancient origins is one of the great heritages of breeding in Italy.

Left : The 5 R’s - Representing the 5 breeds of cattle in the region & guaranteeing the quality and authenticity of the meat.

Right : The Protected Geographical Indication symbol.

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Chianina pulling a Chianti wine cart

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Cinta Senese

The Tuscan pig that wears a belt.

This indigenous breed of pig, once at risk of extinction is now on the incline thanks to the dedication of a group of local breeders determined to preserve the unique characteristics that make this Tuscan pig so special.

Reading a menu in any local Tuscan trattoria, you will probably see Cinta Senese on the menu and if you’ve ever stayed at an agriturismo in Tuscany, you may have come across a local pig breed with a characteristic white band around its middle, surrounding its withers, chest, shoulders and front legs. This unique coloration is from which the first part of its name, derives – ‘Cinta’ which means belt in Italian and ‘Senese’ which lets you know the territory from where it can be found.

This is the story of an indigenous breed that was once at risk of extinction.

“Effects of the Good Government - the well-governed countryside” by Ambrogio Lorenzetti

The Cinta Senese is a breed of domestic pig from the province of Siena and one of the six native pig breeds recognised by the Italian ministry of Agriculture and Forestry. Officially named, “Suino Cinto Toscano DOP”, these Tuscan pigs have had DOP status since 2006 – (the Protected Designation of Origin protect the names of specialty food products with a specific geographic origin.)

It is the predecessor of all pigs in Tuscany, having already been bred by the Etruscans, it followed the Romans in their migrations and was of great help to the peasants of the Middle Ages during plagues and famines.

One of the first and most famous documents showing the presence of the Cinta Senese breed is the image depicted in the fresco called “Effects of the Good Government - the well-governed countryside” by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Comunale di Siena, which dates back to 1338.

However, compared to the times of the painting, the pig has changed over the years. In the past, his ears were pricked, but now they are bent forward. The pig had the morphological characteristics of the wild boar in the painting, whereas now it has greatly increased in weight which is also due to the influence of subsequent genetic crossings.

In the past the breed was widely distributed throughout Tuscany but is now particularly associated with the towns of Casole d’Elsa, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Gaiole in Chianti, Monteriggioni and Siena. The hills of this territory are covered by immense holm oak woods which provide an inexhaustible source of acorns, offering an optimal situation in the undergrowth for the grazing of these pigs in the wild.

A genealogical herd-book was established in the early 1930s but as the population fell drastically after the Second World War, almost to the point of extinction, the herd-book was eventually discontinued in the 1960s. Following a recent recovery in numbers, the herd-book was re-opened in 1997, and is kept by the Italian National Association of pig breeders.

The cinta’s robustness and easy adaptability to being bred in the wild, led to a good expansion in the area, that lasted until the 1950’s. Until then, almost all peasant families raised some Cinta and then worked on the meats.

Then, in the 50’s, the introduction of the ‘white’ pig breeds, in particular the ‘large white’ began. It was a great revolution, as although the large white was not suitable for wild breeding, it was more prolific than the Cinta and ready for slaughter at only 6 months, already weighing more than 100 kg. At one year of age, it can reach 170-200 kg, while the development of the Cinta requires a period longer than one year. To reach the maximum weight of 180 kg., it can take at least 2 years. Then came the trend of crossing a Large White boar with a Cinta Senese sow, to produce a breed of pigs called “Gray”.

In Italy in 1927 there were 21 pig breeds, which almost all became extinct with the arrival of the most productive Danish and English breeds, with the consequent loss of an enormous

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genetic heritage. Only 5 breeds have remained: in addition to the Cinta Senese, the Sicilian, the Mora Romagnola, the Casertana and the Nera Calabrese. But only the Cinta Senese breed has started on the road to its full recovery and diffusion.

In recent years, interest in a pure Cinta Senese has increased to enhance the breed. Towards the end of the 90’s, a group of breeders decided to participate in the reintroduction of this indigenous and almost extinct breed, which led to the establishing of the Consortium for the Protection of the Cinta Senese in the year 2000. The Region of Tuscany, the Province of Siena, the Provincial Association of the Sienese Breeders (APA) and other relevant bodies have made a considerable effort, also offering incentives for the purchase and maintenance of breeding boars, in order to reach a number high enough to remove the Cinta Senese from the list of endangered species.To achieve DOP certification, the Cinta today must follow strict disciplines. It must be bred in a specific territory, in the wild

or semi-wild, in large fenced areas, where the woods alternate with some clearings. Their particular diet must contain at least 60% of Tuscan cereals. It is based mainly on acorns, both the sweet ones of the oak and the bitter ones of the holm oak, but also of tubers and roots, and this is what gives its meat its unique flavour and characteristics.

Cinta Senese meat is redder and tastier than other pork meats.

It has better dietary qualities due to the higher concentration of unsaturated fatty acids, in particular from the Omega 3 series which are associated with a decrease in blood fats and Omega 6 which have an anti-thrombosis action. The lard from Cinta Senese is richer in oleic acid (which is the one that keeps cholesterol away) and in polyunsaturated fatty acids compared to the traditional pork. The fat is also less consistent and more fluid, therefore much more pleasant on the palate. This fluidity, due to a greater unsaturation, allows a faster diffusion of the aromas used in the cured meats which are obtained, ensuring excellent aromatic characteristics.

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Carrara marble quarries

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photo by Larderia Mafalda

Lardo

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“It has a white, almost rose-coloured appearance; sometimes you might be lucky enough to find the so-called “streak” of intense pink colour that increases its visual beauty and adds extra flavour.

The upper part is covered in a thick layer of sea salt, which is grey-black in appearance thanks to the spices in which it is drenched” ……

Lardo......... Is that not the most beautiful word ever spoken? So much nicer than the English translation of lard which really doesn’t even begin to come close to describing this Tuscan specialty that takes at least six months to age. The word Lardo just rolls off your tongue and just saying it makes me start to salivate as I imagine the white, salty pig fat melting on a hot slice of toasted bread. I love eating this delicacy just on its own and it’s a dangerous thing when I have a slab of it in my fridge.

Colonnata, located 550 metres above sea level and nestled between marble quarries and chestnut woods has produced lardo for many years. This delicacy now served at the finest tables was originally a humble accompaniment eaten with bread and it was the staple diet of the miners who worked in the nearby marble quarries of Carrara.

They needed something that would store well for days and that also was high in calories to give them the energy to work the long, difficult hours in the mines. They would rise before dawn to climb the steep slopes of the quarries on foot taking loaves of bread with their slivers of lard. It has been said for centuries that the strength and exceptionally good health of the miners can be attributed to the Lardo di Colonnata so it can’t be all that bad for you!

“Il lardo ricco di calorie, che si attacca ai polmoni, che fa tanto bene alla salute; che si sfa in bocca, che di più buono non ce n’è”; “Lard that is rich in calories, that sticks to your lungs, that is so good for your health; that melts in your mouth, that is so tasty nothing can beat it” The above words were whispered by the miners, perhaps to console themselves for having to eat poor man’s food every day, which was kept in the cool caves nestled in the mountain.

The ancient process has been handed down from generation to generation and each family has their own secret recipe, normally inherited together with at least one marble basin.

The ageing process happens between September and May only, due to the other months being too hot. It is also a stipulation of the IGP certification that must be adhered to.

Lardo di Colonnata is made from cuts of pork meat taken from the layer of fat (from which the suet has been removed) covering the back of the pig. Only natural ingredients; selected spices and herbs from the unspoilt nature of the Carrara side of the Apuan Alps are used. The pork is first covered with a layer of sea salt, this is then followed by a layer of aromatic spices such as cloves, coriander, garlic, pepper, mace, allspice, cinnamon, star anise or nutmeg. Another layer of course sea-salt is added with pepper, garlic and rosemary and then the next piece of lardo is layered on top and the process starts all over again until the marble basin is full. It is then closed for the next six months to let the magic (and chemistry) do their work. And magic does happen as contrary to what you might think, the cholesterol content is almost non-existent after six months of ageing.

Every now and then, the lard is checked to see if it has formed a brine which is the liquid formed by all of the bad fats that start to melt.

Roberta Germani, owner of Larderia Mafalda, the oldest producer of lard in Colonnata tells about her Nonni who for years would tell them that the lard was good for them because ‘it purges in the marble basins’. The meaning of this saying wasn’t really understood by the children until they were older and the company ran some tests after the first, second and third months of ageing. After six months of ageing they found that very few saturated fats remained.

Colonnata is not a pig farming area and so almost all of the pigs used to make Lardo di Colonnata come from Emilia, Veneto, Piedmont and Tuscany. The inhabitants of Colonnata are masters in the preparation of lard and while the process is similar to that used in many other places, there are two essential factors that cannot be found anywhere else and are what make Lardo di Colonnata so special and unique.

The first is the distinctive microclimate of Colonnata. Here the sea and mountain breezes meet and they produce a particular degree of humidity that is needed to produce the lard. The second unique factor required is the marble used for the basins where the lard is aged. It must be from the Canaloni marble beds of Colonnata. This particular marble does not absorb or exude substances, thanks to its extremely fine grain that gives it glassy, almost granite-like characteristics. The natural humidity of the grottos and marble walls of the basin create the natural ageing conditions required.

“The truth is that pig fat aged in this town has sensory characteristics like no other.” The combined effect of the above factors together with skillful seasoning allows the lard to soften and take on particularly intense and pleasant flavours and fragrances. It requires careful monitoring over the months to ensure there are no abnormalities and that it is perfectly preserved when it reaches the end of the ageing process. That is when it takes on a white, almost rose-coloured hue and when finely sliced the streaks appear almost transparent. It should be eaten as it is, or placed on slices of warm toasted bread.

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HOW TO PREPARE & EAT LARD 1. Using a sharp knife, separate the upper layer covered in salt (clean off any excess salt) 2. Separate the lower rind just enough to cut the number of slices required.

3. Cut the lard into thin slices and lay onto small slices of bread, excellent if lightly warmed or even lightly toasted. We recommend adding a slice of tomato without any dressing.

4. Re-fold the upper and lower layers back over the cut service before storing.

STORAGE Fold the flap of rind left after cutting back over the lard.

Keep the piece of lard as it is and wrap it with its salt in a cloth that should always be kept slightly damp.

Store in a cellar or cool place, otherwise keep it in the vegetable drawer of your fridge.

OTHER USES When you have finished the lard, the rind and salt can be used to make an excellent Tuscan-style soup. The rind has an unbeatable, exquisite and unique flavour and is recommended in soups, with beans, dried cod, and also tripe.

The salt can also be re-used, dried and ground down, ready to be added to any roasts as it gives them a special and delicious flavour.

I.G.P. Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) This certification protects a product originating from a territory.

The quality, reputation, recipe and features can be traced back to the geographical origin as long as at least one of the production, transformation and processing steps are carried out in the restricted area. Those producing in conformity to the D.O.P. and I.G.P. standards must strictly abide by the regulatory provisions and compliance with said regulations, controlled by an external organization to guarantee the final product to the end-consumer. Having always based its production on top quality standards, Antica Larderia Mafalda immediately implemented these protective certifications, so as to ensure the consumer with maximum guarantee and safety.

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M

afalda was the first family to begin selling lard and is the oldest producer of lard in Colonnata. Established back in 1930 by ‘Nonna Mafalda, her original, secret recipe has been passed down through the generations and is still being used today by the fourth generation.

In 1954, Mr Veronelli, who at the time was a young winemaker, went to Grandma Mafalda to buy the lard, which he referred to as “LarderiadellamiticaMafalda” (Lard from the legendary Mafalda).

“As with extra virgin olive oil, which everyone refers to by that name but which actually differs from producer to producer, it is important to identify the producer of Lardo di Colonnata, because each one processes and ages the product using different amounts of ingredients and in different ways. Ours is made in accordance with fundamental rules established over four generations.”

photo above from top : Mafalda Larderia in the Colonnata piazza with the Carrara mountains backdrop.

The portrait of Nonna Mafalda sits proudly in the store. She was the first person to commercialise the sale of lardo in Colonnata.

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Savoring Real Italian Experiences with Pranzo Tours On a picturesque afternoon in mid-October, a traveler in Florence steps out of a pastry shop with a schiacciata con l’uva in hand. The man is Tony DeFilippis, founder and owner of Pranzo Tours.

The crowds in the Tuscany region’s capital city are a bit smaller this time of year but the weather is perfect, sun shining and temperatures in the low 70s. In true Tuscan style, Tony wanders over to a nearby bench in the piazza, unwraps his pastry and bites into the traditional seasonal flatbread made with sweet wine grapes, dusted sugar and baked in a wood-fired oven.

Schiacciata con l’uva is only available for a short time at the end of the wine grape harvest. It is a delicacy to be savored with flavors as rich as the Tuscany region. The fact that Tony knew just the right pastry to celebrate a perfect autumn day is why he created Pranzo Tours.

“It is impossible to travel to Italy and not experience the food,” Tony says with a smile. “Knowing where to go, what to eat, and when to eat it are some of the secrets to a true Italian experience.”

Since his first trip to Italy in 1999, Tony has traveled the country extensively to explore every region. To learn what makes each region distinct, understand its culture and the unique treasures that each may have, he has made nearly 50 trips over the past 20 years to uncover local secrets in every season.

Born in America to Italian parents, Tony has deep ancestral connections to Italy. His father was from a little town on the Tyrrhenian Sea halfway between Rome and Naples while his mother’s family was from Calabria on the “toe” of the main-

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land, only one mile from Sicily by boat.

In the DeFilippis household, Tony grew up eating the foods of Italy, his favorite being any sort of pasta. Every holiday was celebrated with traditional Italian family recipes. But it wasn’t until Tony’s parents 50th wedding anniversary that he experienced the real Italy.

The occasion was celebrated with a destination family reunion in Umbria. Tony assisted his mother in planning the entire event from lodging to food to activities. With 20 people set to make the trip from his hometown in Connecticut to a small hill town, it was a big undertaking. They managed every detail and Tony loved doing it.

The experience of staying at an Umbrian villa surrounded by family was transformative. It awakened a passion for the Italian lifestyle and revealed a new way to travel. “It really opened my eyes,” says Tony. “It was a truly authentic experience.”

Each morning Tony would stroll down to the market with his brother or brother-in-law to get fresh food for breakfast. Once items were selected they would meander back to the villa where the entire family would gather at a long picnic table to enjoy with espresso and conversation.

After breakfast, days were filled with sightseeing excursions, afternoon riposini and apperativi, and late family dinners.

“We saw Rome and the Colosseum, Florence and the David, but our best memories are of the time spent gathered together at the dining table or at the villa pool.”

“It was extraordinary,” says Tony. “It was such an intimate and soulful way of seeing Italy.”

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The experience was so moving that it inspired Tony to create Pranzo Tours to offer custom-designed vacations and destination events in Italy.

After working as a lawyer for over thirty years, Tony’s goal is to share his love for Italy and the Italian lifestyle. His frequent trips to different regions ensure that those who travel with Pranzo Tours experience the best of the best. He looks for the best tour guides, the best restaurants, the best wineries, the best memories.

Through the connections and collaborations that Tony has made and continues to cultivate on each trip, Pranzo tours are customized to each unique group’s specifications for destinations, preferences, and special requirements.

When Tony first began, clients would call him three weeks in advance of their trip. Now he begins planning discussions up to a year in advance.

What makes traveling with Pranzo so unique are the intimate experiences designed into every trip. Private cooking classes with a retired restaurateur in his home after which you are given a book full of recipes. Incredible meals at restaurants tucked in quiet alleyways with introductions to meet the proprietor. Private wine tastings and vineyard tours, and so much more.

Tony prides himself on finding places that are less traveled including great works of art and architecture. If you want to explore an underground Etruscan city with a knowledgeable guide, he can bring you there. If you want to see a hand-written letter by St. Francis in a dark side room of a remote rural church, Pranzo will take you there. If your dream is to be married in Italy, Pranzo has a team in two idyllic regions to tend to every detail. From truffle hunts to hot air balloon rides to guided bike rides to kayaking off the Amalfi Coast, Pranzo had done it all.

“We strive to work with the best local people in Italy. With our concierge approach, our guides greet you on arrival and support you throughout your stay,’” says Tony. “Our goal is for you to travel with confidence in exploring intriguing back alleys and discovering secrets that only the locals know, like schiacciata con l’uva.”

Back in Florence, Tony finishes his pastry and takes one last look around the Florentine piazza. He didn’t realize it but nearly an hour had slipped away since he sat down. But for Tony time isn’t a concern because he was taking in an authentic experience. It was about experiencing Florence the way it was meant to be. Just enjoying a moment in time, savoring it until the last bite.

Exclusive Concierge Tours of Italy

Tony DeFillippis 37 Linnard Road, West Hartford, CT Phone: 860-316-4943 x 801 Fax: (860) 819-3366

Clelia Zolli 630 5th Avenue, Suite 2000, New York, NY Phone: 860-316-4943 x 668 This Tuscan Life v

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Trattoria I Raddi, Florence.

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The delicious Peposo served with mashed potato at Trattoria i Raddi

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Peposo

Peposo alla Fornacina, also known as Peposo del Brunelleschi, or just simply, Peposo, is a typical Florentine dish which originated in the Middle Ages in Impruneta, a hilly town above Florence renowned for its terracotta.

rosemary. The meat must be cooked at a low temperature very slowly which is essential to ensure that the fat of the meat melts and the muscle fibres break down giving the meat a very tender result.

The men who worked in the terracotta furnaces known as the “fornacini”, would prepare this simple and nutritious meal, often invented, it is said, by the master Brunelleschi during the construction of the terracotta tiles for his famous cupola, the dome of Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence. The “fornacini” cooked the meat in the same ovens where the tiles and terracotta pots were fired, therefore the cooking of the Peposo lasted about 6 hours. Today, with modern ovens, the time to prepare this delicious dish has halved.

Nowadays some people add a little tomato sauce or fresh tomatoes to the preparation but as tomatoes did not exist in the fifteenth century they are not part of the original recipe.

You can use ground pepper or whole peppercorns when making Peposo – the meat, pepper, garlic, rosemary and sage is added to a terracotta pot before it is all covered with Chianti wine. You can cook slowly on the stove top or in the oven, usually for about three hours.

There are three main ingredients of Peposo; beef, normally a muscle cut, pepper and Chianti with the addition of sage and

Once cooked, the Peposo should be served if possible in heated terracotta bowls, with polenta, mashed potatoes or toasted Tuscan bread.

ingredients

method

• • • • • • •

• Cut the Beef into large chunks and place in a thick base saucepan.

• Add the Garlic, tomatoes and salt.

• Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the Ground Pepper.

• If you want a stronger Pepper flavour, add whole peppercorns as well.

• Cover the beef with red wine and cook at a low simmer for at least 3 hours, stirring occasionally.

• Add more wine or water if necessary but liquid will reduce to form a thick sauce.

• When ready, the meat should break apart and be very soft.

800g Beef Muscle 200g Peeled Tomatoes 3-4 Cloves Garlic Red Wine (preferably Chianti) Ground Black Pepper + 1 tbsp Whole Black Peppercorns Salt to taste

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Il Brasato at Buca Lapi.

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Brasato di Muscolo alle cipolle di Tropea

by Luciano Ghinassi Tuscan Slow Cooked Braised Beef with Red Onions

Luciano starts his day early at the restaurant and this is one of the dishes that he makes first thing so that it cooks long and slow to ensure the muscle breaks down and becomes tender, while the onions soften in the wine resulting in a delicious ‘sugo’ which is then served perfectly with creamy polenta.

The technique of cooking braised beef may seem a little complex, but it is not difficult. Braising is a simple cooking technique that involves browning the meat in a pan with a fat, oil or butter, and then cooking it in a little liquid inside a saucepan with a lid, on the stove or in the oven. The concept behind the braising is the exchange of flavors between the meat and the liquid in which it is cooked. The long and slow cooking helps to develop flavors and to transform even the less soft cuts into a very tender braised meat.

ingredients

method

• • • • • • •

• Cut the Beef into large chunks and lightly cover it in flour.

• Add 4 tablespoons of oil to a saucepan and caramelize the beef.

• Slice the onions and cook in 4 tablespoons of oil until they soften.

• Add the meat, salt and then the wine and vinegar.

• Cover and cook on a low heat for at least 1 1/2 hours, until the meat is soft and falls apart, stirring occasionally.

• Cook polenta following instructions on the packet.

• Place the polenta on the plate, followed by the brasato.

• Enjoy with a good glass of Chianti Classico!

1kg Beef Muscle 500 grams of Onions (Tropea if available) 3-4 Cloves Garlic 1/2 glass of Red Wine (preferably Chianti) 1/2 glass of vinegar Extra virgin Olive Oil Salt to taste

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Carnevale

February means Carnival in Italy and local bakeries in Tuscany will be full of wonderful sweet treats that will tempt you to taste one, two or all of their delicious creations. Whether you prefer crisp & crunchy Cenci, soft, fluffy Frittelle di Riso or cream filled Schiacciata alla Fiorentina, your sweet tooth wont be complaining as you travel through Tuscany during ‘Carnevale’.

Frittelle di Riso Sweet vanilla balls of rice pudding, fried and then rolled in sugar........does anything else need to be said about these Carnival delights?

Ingredients 7-1/2 cups water 2-1/2 cups uncooked arborio rice 1 cup sugar 1/2 cup milk 2 eggs 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 3/4 cup all-purpose flour Oil for deep-frying Additional Sugar

Method 1. In a large saucepan, bring water and rice to a boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer for 15-18 minutes or until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender.

2. Stir in sugar and milk. Refrigerate until chilled (you can do this step the day before) 3. In a small bowl, whisk the eggs, baking powder, salt and vanilla; add to rice mixture. Stir in flour.

4. In an electric skillet or deep-fryer, heat oil to 375°. Shape tablespoonfuls of rice mixture into balls and fry a few at a time, for 1 minute on each side or until golden brown.

5. Drain on paper towels and roll in sugar.

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Delicious Frittelle from The Bottega di Pasticceria in Florence.

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Cenci Called by many names all over Italy such as Chiacchiere, Crostoli & Bugie but known as Cenci in Florence, these fried but light biscuit treats are just perfect with a cup of tea or coffee in the afternoon.

Believe me when I say it’s hard to stop at just one!

Ingredients 250 gm plain flour 1 tsp Vanilla extract 1 egg 50 gm butter 1/2 cup Marsala, Grappa or Vin Santo pinch salt 1 tbs Sugar Sunflower Oil for Frying Powdered Sugar for dusting

Method 1. Sift the flour and then add all ingredients (except oil and powdered sugar).

2. Mix all ingredients until well combined and the dough is smooth and elastic. Cover and let rest for 1 hour.

3. After resting, knead the dough gently again and with a floured rolling pin, or pasta machine, roll the dough out very thin.

4. Using a pastry cutting wheel with zig-zag edges, cut the pastry into rectangles - you can try and keep them all the same size or cut irregular sizes.

Cut again down the middle of each rectangle as shown below. My Nonna used to give them a little twist too but you can leave them flat if you wish.

5. Pour enough oil in a deep frying pan and heat so is hot but not smoking.

Fry the cenci in batches of 4 or 5 turning them over to ensure both sides are nice and brown but be careful as they cook quickly!

6. Place onto kitchen towel to absorb the excess oil and once cool, dust liberally with icing sugar.

Cenci can keep for quite a few days in an air-tight container but I seriously doubt they’ll last that long! Best served immediately!

Special Thanks to Silvia Salerno for sharing her Nonna’s recipe!

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Photos & Styling by Toni Brancatisano

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La Schiacciata alla Fiorentina

By The Bottega di Pasticceria, Florence

Ingredients

Method

Butter, for pan 1 1/2 cups/320 g all-purpose flour 1 cup/250 g sugar 1 1/2 tablespoons baking powder Zest and juice of 1 orange (ensure the orange is organic with no wax ion the skin!)

3 large eggs 1/2 cup warm whole milk 4 tablespoons vegetable oil Powdered sugar, for topping

Preheat the oven to 180°C Butter or oil a rectangular baking tray..

Add flour, sugar, baking powder, orange zest, orange juice, eggs, milk, and oil. Beat with a mixer until thoroughly mixed together.

Add the batter to the buttered pan and bake for about 25 minutes. Test the cake with a toothpick inserted into the center. If it comes out clean, the cake is done.

Let cool for about 30 minutes, then flip the cake out of the baking pan.

Let cool, slice and serve sprinkled with powdered sugar.

Fill with whipped cream if desired.

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Michelin Starred chef Simone Bartolini knows how to create beautiful things; from the flaky pastries, gorgeous pasticcini, stunning cakes and impressive lunch menu, it’s very easy to pass away a whole morning or afternoon in this beautifully designed location near Piazza Ferrucci. And Simone is also one of the nicest guys you will ever meet which is obvious by the loyal regulars who come in here daily! He recently opened a second location in Via Masaccio and also manages the La Caffetteria degli Uffizi.

When Simone is asked what makes his Schiacciata alla Fiorentina so special, he is quick to note that they only use the zest from organic oranges and not the standard varieties that are given a wax treatment to give them a longer life. If you prefer your Schiacciata ‘ripiena’ / filled with cream then you won’t be disappointed with the Bottega’s version. Their sponge cake is also light and it really is a delicious and simple dessert that should be celebrated all year round and not just at Carnival time!

“La Bottega di Pasticceria”, on Lungarno Ferrucci is open from 7am in the morning until 10pm in the evening so it’s the perfect location for breakfast, lunch or a stylish aperitivo. Via Masaccio is open from Monday - Saturday from 7am-8.30pm.

Whether you prefer sweet or savory, the quality of the food reflects the authenticity and the Tuscan tradition of eating well.

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Panforte

by Toni Brancatisano

This Spiced Fruit and Nut cake is perhaps one of the oldest sweets in Italy, dating back through the centuries to the introduction of new spices from afar, via the naval port of Pisa. Panforte is sticky but irresistible, and is normally eaten in winter, with coffee and liqueurs after a meal.

A small piece is sufficient as it is quite a rich and dense slice. ingredients

method

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Heat the oven to 150 C. Line a shallow 25cm round cake tin, or a 20cm square tin, with rice paper.

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Mince the figs or dates and put them in a pan with enough water just to cover. Add the honey, brown sugar and all the spices. Cook gently for about 10 minutes, then tip into a bowl. The mixture should be soft and sticky, but not wet.

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Add the candied fruit and nuts and mix well, then add the flour and Vin Santo and mix to a sticky mass. Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin and bake in the oven for 30-40 minutes.

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Take out of the oven and leave to cool in the tin.

Sprinkle generously with icing sugar and serve cut into thin wedges.

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Photos by tonibrancatisano

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240g figs or pitted dates 50g honey 100g soft brown sugar 1/2 tsp each of ground cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, nutmeg and black pepper 250g candied fruit, such as cherries, citron, lemon and orange rind 50g blanched almonds 50g pine nuts 50g shelled hazelnuts, toasted 3-4 tbsp plain flour, sifted 50ml Vin Santo Icing sugar to dust Rice Paper (to line the tin)

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Sfinci di Zucca

by Toni Brancatisano

These pumpkin ‘sfince’ are something I enjoyed as a child. Every time we would have our big Italian family get togethers. Each Aunty (there were 8 of them) would bring a dessert, and each of them were known for their dessert. My mother for example always made a pavlova, or a strawberry flan, another would always make a chocolate ripple cake (vintage recipe popular in the 70’s & 80’s). These ‘sfinci’ (pronounced sfinchi) were made by Aunty Lucy, and I remember them fondly sitting on a tray dripping with ‘vincotto’ (cooked wine). Think of them as pumpkin doughnuts, covered in sugar & cinnamon. The other way to eat them, and the way Aunty Lucy would serve them was by pouring vincotto over them. I decided to roll them in the cinnamon sugar… and then drizzle the vincotto on top too.

Although we called these sfinci, in Sicily sfinci are usually made with ricotta… and maybe the name ‘sfinci’ is used more predominantly in Calabria. You may also find this recipe as ‘fritelle di zucca’ . It doesn’t matter what you call them though, there is no disputing they are delicious, light, fluffy…. and very easy to make! You can cook your own pumpkin or do as I did and buy a can of 100% pumpkin puree. (Often used in America for baking).

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • •

1 can – 450g cooked pumpkin (about 1kg uncooked) 250ml milk, lukewarm (tepid) 25g fresh brewer’s yeast 450g plain all purpose flour pinch salt 50g sultanas or currants 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon peanut or vegetable oil for frying vincotto *recipe below*

Method If using fresh pumpkin, peel the pumpkin, remove the seeds and cut into cubes. Cover with water in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Cook until the pumpkin is soft, drain and blend using a food processor. Allow to cool.

Dissolve yeast into milk. Ensure milk is tepid, and not hot.

Soak currants in a small glass of port, and then strain before adding to mixture.

Sift flour into a large glass bowl, add salt and make a well in the centre.

Slowly pour the milk with dissolved yeast into the flour, stirring by hand with a fork to incorporate flour into milk.

Add pumpkin, currants and rosemary and continue mixing until dough is uniform in consistency & colour.

Cover bowl with a clean, dry tea-towel and place in a warm corner of the kitchen. Allow to rise for 2 hours. (It should double in size.)

Heat the oil to 190°C in a deep, heavy based saucepan or use a deep fryer.

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Use two dessert spoons and use one to grab a small amount of dough. Use the other spoon to push the dough off the spoon and allow it to slide into the oil. Repeat and cook about 5 at a time. Turn them as they fry, and remove once they are a deep golden colour.

Place on absorbent kitchen towel. (I always cook one first, then break it open to check it is cooked inside, adjusting oil temperature if necessary).

Add the cinnamon to the sugar in a bowl, and roll the warm ‘sfinci’ around covering it with sugar.

Serve warm if possible, although they really are still delicious cold. If serving with vincotto, drizzle it over them just before serving.

Easy Vincotto Recipe ‘Vincotto’ (cooked wine) is traditionally made in Puglia & Calabria. The delicious flavour of Vino Cotto is the result of slowly cooking grape ‘must’ (juice of pressed grape) of late harvest premium dark grapes, before fermentation begins.

The must is cooked over a low flame for over 15 hours, during which time it reduces to a third of it’s original volume resulting in a syrup. The following recipe is an easier & quicker version you can make at home… remove the spices you may not like.. tweak it until you are happy with the flavour. You can also buy vincotto in most specialty food stores.

750ml fruity red wine 150g sugar 2cm fresh ginger – cut in 3 pieces 1 cinnamon stick 1 teaspoon cardamom pods 2 cloves Place all the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil.

Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for about 30 minutes until the wine has thickened. The wine should have a syrupy consistency, and will reduce to about a quarter of its original volume, about 3/4 cup. Strain through a sieve and let cool to room temperature.

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Chocolate tools!

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Cioccolato

If you visit Tuscany during the Winter months then you should taste a specialty that you may not have associated with Tuscany, or even considered ........ chocolate!

The Medici “spezieria,” or pharmacy, located in Palazzo Pitti included one room dedicated to the consumption of chocolate. At Cosimo III’s court back in the mid-seventeenth century, Francesco Redi, who was a poet, head physician to the grand duke, scientist, and superintendent of the royal pharmacy, invented a particular chocolate, which is said to have become a delicacy in great demand. This wasn’t just any chocolate, however, it was a secret and highly coveted recipe for jasmine chocolate.

Francesco Redi wrote that chocolate had become popular in noble houses and princely courts because it could fortify the stomach and improve overall health. He also explained that while the Spanish were the first to receive and manipulate chocolate, the court in Tuscany was the first to infuse chocolate with flavours such as fresh citron, limoncello, jasmine, cinnamon, vanilla, and amber. Redi was commissioned by Cosimo III to create a unique chocolate recipe. He took 10 days and created a complex and elaborate recipe for jasmine chocolate using thousands of jasmine flowers.

Jasmine chocolate was not only a testament to the duke’s wealth and the abilities of the grand ducal spezieria, it was also a symbol of Medici taste, refinement, and power. It

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quickly became popular at the Florentine court and was a closely guarded state secret.

Fast forward to today and Tuscany has developed quite a popular reputation for some of the best chocolate in the world.

The success of Tuscan chocolate has been gaining steady ground since the mid 1970’s thanks to Roberto Catinari, who returned home to Pistoia after twenty years studying and working with Swiss chocolatiers. Applying his knowledge that he had learnt and adding his own Tuscan flavours, he set up a small shop in the town of Agliana which was an instant success. Others, from nearby towns were quick to follow his example, and before long, the Valdinievole and surrounding area, from Prato and Pistoia, stretching down to the northern parts of Pisa, became to be called, ‘The Chocolate Valley’.

Tuscan master chocolatiers are now winning prestigious accolades and prizes at superior levels world-wide. Some of these famous names are, Amedei from Pontedera, de Bondt in Pisa, Slitti in Monsummano, Mannori in Prato and Pistocchi in Florence.

Florence has long been famous for its temples of rich hot chocolate, at famed cafes such as Rivoire, Gilli and Paszkowski. Still known for their expertise in chocolate making, it’s a winter ritual to warm oneself up with a velevety cup of hot chocolate. Follow the example set by many Italians and add a generous serving of whipped cream for the true experience!

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Winter COCKTAILS Celebrate Carnival and keep warm over the winter months with these cocktails by Thomas Martini. Don’t be deceived by the black colour of our Black Margarita! Your guests will be surprised by the classic Margarita flavour disguised by Gum Nero Syrup, a novelty addition to any cocktail. Coloured with vegetable charcoal, it just adds colour without affecting the flavour.

BLACK MARGARITA 3CL Dark Tequila 3CL Grand Marnier 2CL Gum Nero Syrup Shake over ice and pour into a margarita class

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A CUP OF CARNIVAL 2CL Midori 1CL Vodka 1CL Panna 3CL Tequila 1CL Cointreau Smoked Orange Ice Place all ingredients in a Cocktail shaker Shake & pour into a chilled glass

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Simone & Barbara’s beautiful organic produce in San Niccolò

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In Season FRUIT / FRUTTA

ARANCE

VEGETABLES / VERDURE

BROCCOLI BIETOLE

CAVOLFIORE

CACHI

CARCIOFI

CICORIA Pompelmi

CAROTE

FINOCCHI

MANDARINI

CAVOLINI DI BRUXELLES

PORRI FUNGHI MELA

INDIVIA

MELAGRANE

CAVOLO NERO

LATTUGA

RAPA

PERA SCALOGNO

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