Touchof ofSpice Spicecan canfill fillyour yourhome homewith withthe theexotic exoticaromas aromasof offaraway farawayIndia, India,and anddelight delightyour yourpalate palatewith with AATouch flavoursfrom fromsubtle subtleto tosumptuous. sumptuous.From FromBiryani Biryaniand andBadam BadamPak, Pak,Samosas Samosasand andSev Sev- -you youare areoffered offeredaafull fullrange range flavours ofIndian Indiancuisine cuisinefrom fromdrinks drinksand andappetizers, appetizers,through throughmain maincourse, course,to todesserts dessertsand andsweets. sweets.To Tohelp helpthe theuninitiated, uninitiated, of theauthor authorincludes includesaaglossary, glossary,explanatory explanatorynotes notesplus plusmenu menuand andserving servingsuggestions. suggestions.She Shehas hastransformed transformedher her the yearsof ofcooking cookingand andteaching teachinginto intoaavery verycontemporary, contemporary,usable usablecookbook. cookbook. years
A TOUCH OF
Historically,for forAsian Asianwomen womencooking cookingwas wasone oneof ofthe thearts artstaught taughtininthe thehome, home,so sofor forNoorbanu NoorbanuNinyi, Ninyi,success success Historically, dependedgreatly greatlyon onher herability abilityininthe thekitchen. kitchen.She Shespent spentmany manyyears yearslearning learningtraditional traditionalIndian Indiancooking cookingfrom fromher her depended mother,and andwas wasable ableto toexpand expandher herskills skillsand andrepertoire repertoirecooking cookingIndian Indiandishes dishesininthe theluxury luxuryhotels hotelsher herfather father mother, ownedininKenya. Kenya.She Shecame cameto tosee seethat thather hercontribution contributioncould couldbe bethe themodernization modernizationand andclear clearpresentation presentationof ofthis this owned ever-evolvingculinary culinarytradition. tradition. ever-evolving Afterimmigrating immigratingto toCanada Canadainin1974, 1974,she shetaught taughtclasses classesininIndian Indiancooking cookingand, and,along alongwith withthe theduties dutiesof ofhome home After andfamily, family,set setherself herselfto tothe thetask taskof ofputting puttingher heryears yearsof ofpractical practicalexperience experiencewith withfood foodinto intoaapublishable publishableform. form. and Touchof ofSpice Spiceisisthe theresult resultof ofNoprbanu NoprbanuNinyi's Ninyi'slifelong lifelongromance romancewith withcooking. cooking. AATouch
ISBN 0-919845-43-6 0-919845-43-6 ISBN
US$14.99 $14.99CAN CAN$19.99 $19.99 US
NOORBANU NIMJI An International Best Seller
Introduction Menus
Chapter 1
4 6 9
Chapter 2
19
Hors D'Oeuvres & Teatime Specials
Chapter 3
37 47 57 85
Rice & Chapatis
Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6
107
Glossary Soups, Drinks, Chutneys & Raitas
Vegetable, Bean & Lentil Curries Fish, Poultry & Meat EntrĂŠes Sweets & Desserts Index
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
3
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
CHILI POWDER lal chutney
introduction
Chili powders differ in strength. Therefore special care should be taken to use to your personal taste.
AGAR AGAR Chinese grass
Agar Agar is a vegetable product and is used for setting liquids without refrigeration.
CINNAMON tug BURGHUL
Indian cooking as it is known today, whether Persian or Moghul derivation can trace its origins to the northern part of India. It spread from there, often carried by travelers who reached the great plains through the legendary Khyber Pass, and evolved according to the local food resources. Books on Indian cooking are abound. This book differs in that, although the origins of the recipes could still be traced to Northern India, the recipes changed with the immigration of the Ismailis to the shores of Africa in years past, when the Arabic influence was paramount. This added a new dimension to their culinary evolution. More recent travel and immigration to Canada, where plenty of meat and fresh vegetables are available and where an emphasis on the nutritional value of food is a watchword, has led to further changes in cooking style, so that a dish prepared from A Spicy Touch is the mirror of the culinary history of a people.
You could eat these foods in restaurants, but if you cook them at home you have the added benefits of learning an art and introducing an exciting new fare to your guests. It may even become the conversational piece of the party. Traditional dishes in an ever-changing pattern of evolution, in keeping with the tempo and taste of the times, are both nostalgic and refreshing. Talk of curry and Indian spices may conjure up an image of a flame-spewing dragon. This myth has no validity in modern cooking. The culprit in the pungency of the fare is the amount of hot pepper used. If more than necessary is added, it will naturally create a fire. The Indian cooking in this book is light and delightful and should not need a cooling system for an over-heated engine. The recipes in this book have found flavour in many Ismaili and other homes and are presented here so that you may share the traditions and developments of a time-honored Asian cuisine.
Burghul is crushed wheat sometimes referred to as bulgar. It can be purchased from Lebanese specialty stores.
Cinnamon has a pleasant, sweet taste and aroma. It can be purchased in sticks and powder form.
CARDAMOM Elaychi
A relative of the ginger plant, grown in tropical regions of the world, cardamom is a small oval, green or white (bleached) ridged pod containing several small black seeds. It has a sweetish eucalyptus-like aroma. Its culinary uses include desserts, pilaus, sweet rice dishes, cakes and cookies as well as meat and fish dishes. The whole pod, including the skin, is used. Also believed to stimulate the appetite, cardamom seeds are believed to contain oils that prevent cavities and help control dandruff. The cardamom with green pods is commonly used. It can be used with or without pods. Freshly ground cardamom with pods is used all through these recipes. Note: cardamom is highly aromatic.
CLOVES laving
Cloves are aromatic, and are used whole or in powder form.
COCONUT CREAM
There are different kinds of coconut cream or powder, which can be purchased from Indian specialty stores. Fresh coconut can be used as well. Chisel out white flesh, cut flesh into small pieces and blend with a little water. Squeeze the pulp through a sieve and use the white liquid instead of ready cream or powder. This process may be repeated for weaker milks. The used flesh should be discarded.
CORIANDER dhana
CASSAVA mogo
Mogo is a tropical rootstock. It is also called Yucca or tapioca.
This can be purchased in seeds, coarsely ground or powder form. Fresh coriander leaves (kothmir) are also sold in some supermarkets and specialty food stores. It is also called Chinese parsley or cilantro. Can be grown from seed.
HOT PEPPER CUMIN jeera
This can be purchased in seed or powder form. Best ground in coffee grinder.
CITRIC ACID limboo na pbool
Citric acid is used instead of lemon juice. It can be easily purchased from an Indian grocery.
CURRY LEAVES limdho
Curry leaves are like bay leaves, but much smaller. They are sold fresh or dry. Fresh can be kept frozen in a container until used.
DAALS lentils
Split beans are called daals (lentils). There are many different kinds of lentils. This is a good source of protein.
EDIBLE SILVER PAPER
Edible silver paper is used to garnish any sweet dish. It is available at Indian grocery stores. It is very delicate and should be handled carefully and gently.
GARLIC lasan
Garlic is sold in most food stores, either fresh, powdered, or in dehydrated flakes. It is also sold in paste form. Throughout this book, dehydrated flakes are used. Soak dehydrated garlic flakes in water for 2 hours, and then blend in food processor with the minimum amount of water necessary. This can be stored in refrigerator or freezer. Minimum amounts of garlic have been suggested in these recipes, add additional garlic according to your preference.
GHEE
(clarified butter) The best-flavoured ghee is made from unsalted butter. See recipe, page 18.
GINGER adu FENUGREEK methi
Fenugreek are tiny yellow seeds. They are used in pickles. Coarsely ground can be purchased from Indian grocery. They can also be grown and the leaves are used in special dishes, and leaves are called methi ni bhajl.
ENO
Eno is a mixture of sodium bicarbonate and tartaric acid.
GARAM MASALA
A combination of spices which varies from cook to cook in spiciness and hotness, see recipe page 18. Commercial versions are available in Indian or Oriental food stores.
It is sold as fresh root, dried, ready paste, and in cans. Through this book the cans are used. Discard the water and then blend in food processor with a little water. This can be stored in the refrigerator or freezer.
A few varieties are available, fresh or in powder form. They are differentiated by colour and strength. As seeds can be very hot, they may be removed. Prepare with care under cold running water, (use gloves if necessary), wash hands immediately afterwards as handling may cause stinging of the skin. Making a small slit in pepper before frying will keep pepper from erupting in oil.
This is the flour made from black chickpeas, and is also known as channa. It is very high in protein and is gluten-free. It is widely used for making savoury and sweet dishes.
GUM ARABIC gund
Gund is purchased in a crystallized form. When frying gund, special care should be taken. If fried in clarified butter, make sure that there is no water left, otherwise gum will not pop. It is important that gum (gund) pops up when fried and is no longer hard or sticky.
Paprika powder is not hot, as it is made from bell peppers. It is used to give color and reduce the hot taste. Use instead of chili powder.
PATRA
advi-na-bhajia
Patra are ready, canned in India, and can be purchased from Indian grocery store.
POPPY SEEDS khas khas
Poppy seeds are tiny seeds commonly used in sweet meats.
JOGGERY ghor
Sold in Indian grocery stores. This is the semisolid stage of sugar cane. It has a light yellow to dark orange colour, and the flavour of molasses.
KATAIFI PASTRY shredded dough
This is Lebanese pastry and is sold in supermarkets and Lebanese grocery stores.
MUSTARD SEED ral
They are round black seeds used to flavour vegetables and other dishes. Coarsely ground for pickles can be purchased from Indian grocery.
RICE
There are many varieties of rice: long grain, Basmati rice, patna, American and more. For best results, the rice should be washed in 5 to 4 changes of water, then soaked for 10 to 20 minutes; longer soaking reduces the cooking time. Only the loose rice requires washing and soaking, the pre-packed varieties can be prepared as the package directs.
SAFFRON kesar
Saffron is the most expensive spice available and is used for its flavour and colour in Biryani, pilau, and sweets.
MASOOR lentils
They are brown in color. Split masoor are red in colour.
SUGAR SYRUP chasni
NUTMEG jalphal
It has a pleasant smell and is used in sweets.
OMUM ajma GRAM FLOUR channa no atto
PAPRIKA POWDER
Ajma are tiny seeds, sold in Indian grocery stores and are used for vegetable dishes.
PAPADUMS
A kind of flat crispy wafer which can be bought from Indian grocery stores, ready either to be broiled or deepfried in oil.
For various sweets different kinds of sugar syrup is required. The strength is measured by strings (tar). Boll sugar and water for few minutes and check by a drop between thumb and forefinger. Press and separate; if the syrup forms strings (tar) it is called one string of tar. If two or more strings form, the syrup will be thicker. It can also be tested with a candy thermometer or by dropping a drop on a plate. The lighter strength syrup will spread and heavier will stand like a ball.
TURMERIC haldi
This is only used in a savory dish to give colour. It has an antiseptic value. Salt and turmeric is used for sore throats and weak gums.
375 30 2 105
mL mL mL mL
1-1/2 cups 2 tbsp. 1/2 tsp. 1/4 cup + 3 tbsp.
all purpose flour white vinegar salt water
loose flour for preparation cooking oil and brush for preparation
folding of a
samosa pastry Figure 1 x
A
E
D x
Figure 2
A
D
B
1
Make a pliable dough with the first 4 ingredients.
2
On a generously floured board, roll each portion into a circle: 6 portions into 6” (15 cm) diameter; 2 portions into 1” (11 cm) diameter.
3
Brush each of the pastry rounds with oil. Sprinkle with a little flour. Stack the rounds starting with 1” (11 cm) circle first and oiled sides facing; brush with oil and repeat the process, using all the circles and ending with the 1” (11 cm) round. Do not apply oil on the top.
C
B
F
C
4 5
Heat a griddle to 315°F (190°C) and using the rolling pin, lift the round onto the griddle, lower the heat to minimum and cook for 1 minute only. Turn over, start peeling and separate each round until all 8 rounds are separated. Stack these parcooked rounds to keep them from drying.
E
Figure 4
pocket for filling tiny overlap
1 Bring Point A to B as seen in Figure 2. point C to D as in Figure 3– with a tiny 2 Fold overlapping at point x. 3
E & F meet forming a diamond shape. Turn over and the lower half will have a pocket– fill this with the Samosa filling.
4
Close the pocket by applying paste to the edges (E & F points), fold and seal, thus forming a triangle.
Knead well. Divide dough into 8 portions.
On a floured board roll the stack of rounds, turning over frequently, into 11” (21 (:m) diameter.
F
Figure 3 F E
makes 24
6
500 g 2 mL 2 mL 2 30 2 1
mL mL mL mL
15 mL 2 mL
30 mL 45 mL 45 mL
While still hot: trim 1/4” (0.5 cm) off 2 sides of the rounds. Cut into 3 equal strips.
7
makes 20–24
Trim to the shape shown on lefy and keep covered in damp cloth until used. Can be frozen for over 3 months wrapped in aluminum foil. Thaw before using. Alternate Cooking: Bake on greased foil in the centre rack of the preheated oven at 500°F (2600C) for 3 to 4 minutes; remove and peel off the rounds. If hard to peel, bake again for 1 minute.
1 lb. lean ground beef, chicken or turkey 1/2 tsp. salt 1/2 tsp. crushed ginger (see glossary) 1/2 tsp. crushed garlic 2 tbsp. lemon juice 1/2 tsp. cumin powder 1/4 tsp. chili powder 1 spring onion, finely chopped 1 small onion, finely chopped (to make 1-1/2 cups [375 mL] combined) 1 tbsp. chopped coriander leaves 1/2 tsp. Garam Masala salt chopped hot peppers (optional) Paste: 2 tbsp. all-purpose flour 3 tbsp. water 3 tbsp. water
750 mL
Samosa Pastry (Pre- prepared)
3 cups oil for deep frying
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
samosa pastry
1
Cook ground beef on medium heat, stirring and breaking all lumps untll the colour of the meat starts to change.
2
Add salt, ginger, garlle, lemon juice, cumin, hot pepper and chllli powder. Continue cooking untll aU the water has evaporated and the mixture is completely dry.
3 4
Drain fat thoroughly from the mixture in colander and then drain again on kitchen towel.
5 6
When mixture Is cool add chopped onions, fresh coriander leaves and garam masala. Adjust salt and chopped hot peppers to taste. Make paste by blending water and flour. Fold Samosas as shown in the diagram on the opposite page (see Samosa Pastry Preparation)
7
For smooth crisp pastry, deep fry Samosas as follows. Deat all to 200°F (100°C). Place a few Samosas in oil, turn heat to medium and cook turning often untll golden brown. Drain on paper towels.
8 9
Garnish with lemon wedges and serve hot. Can also be served with Tamarind Chutney. For prolonged frying, remove half of the hot oil from the wok and add more cold all and then fry additional samosas, or wait until the oil cools down. For best results never fry Samosas in all that is too hot.
500 kg 125 mL 250 mL
5mL 1kg 15mL 10mL 10mL 5mL 2mL 250 mL 500 mL 375 mL
115 g 115g 15mL 0.5mL
1 lb. chicken backs and necks for stock 1/2 cup oil 1 cup chopped onion 4 cloves 4 small cinnamon sticks 4 cardamom pods 6 black peppercorns 1-3 hot peppers, slit 1 tsp. cumin seeds 2 lbs. chicken breast, cut into strips 2”x 1” (5 x2.5 cm) 1 tbsp. lemon juice 2 tsp. salt, divided 2 tsp. crushed ginger 1 tsp. crushed garlic 1/2 tsp. crushed hot pepper, or to taste 1 cup finely diced tomato 2 cups basmati rice, washed and soaked in warm water for 10 minutes 1-1/2 cups fried onion, OR 6 large onions, fried oil for frying (onion, almonds and raisins) 3 oz. slivered almonds 3 oz. golden raisins 1 tbsp. chopped coriander leaves 1/8 tsp. yellow food colour (powder) 20 strands saffron
1
Boil chicken backs and necks in water to cover for 1-1/2 hours; reserve stock. Heat oil, add 1 cup (250 mL) chopped onion and sauté until slightly brown. Add whole spices, slit hot pepper, cumin seeds and sauté for 1h a minute. Add chicken, lemon juice, 1 tsp. (5 mL) salt, ginger, garlic, hot pepper, tomato and continue cooking until chicken is almost cooked, adding stock if necessary.
2
Add reserved stock, to make 4 cups (1L) liquid in an in the mixture.
3
Add rice and cook until all the water is absorbed and the rice is cooked. Fry second amount of onion and set aside.
4 5 6 7 8
serves 4
60-90mL 1kg 5mL 2mL 2mL 2mL 2mL 1mL 1mL 10mL 500mL 2mL 15mL
1 medium onion, sliced or chopped 4-6 tbsp. oil 2 1/4lbs. chicken pieces, skinned 1 tsp. crushed ginger 1/2 tsp. crushed garlic 1/2 tsp. crushed hot pepper 1/2 tsp. coriander powder 1/2 tsp. cumin powder 1/4 tsp. tumeric powder 1/4 tsp. chili powder, or to taste 1 medium tomato, chopped 2 tsp. tomato paste 6 small potatoes 2 cups hot water 1/2 tsp. garam masala 1 tbsp. coriander leaves
In another saucepan make layers of cooked pilau (rice mixture), fried onion, slivered almonds, raisins, chopped coriander and sprinkle with a mixture of yellow food colour and saffron. Repeat until everything is used. Place in preheated oven for 20 minutes.
2
Saute onions over medium heat until golden brown. Add chicken and saute for further 3-4 minutes. Add tomatoes and tomato paste and all the spices, except garam masala and coriander leaves and cook until half done.
3
Add potatoes, again cook for a few minutes and add hot water. Cook until chicken and potatoes are cooked.
4 5
Add garam masala and coriander leaves. Serve with rice or Chapati (page 40). If serving with Chapati, a drier sauce is required so add less water.
6
Fry almonds and raisins in a little oil until raisins pop. Set aside. Stir food colour and saffron in 1/4 cup (50 mL) water and set aside. Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C).
1
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
serves 4 to 5
Variations: Palakh Chicken: same recipe as above with an addition of spinach but less water. The sauce has a very dry consistency. Chicken Masala: has a very thick sauce made with the basic curry sauce plus: 1 tbsp. (15 mL) plain yogurt, 1 tbsp. (15 mL) lemon juice; 8 strands saffron. Garnish with hard-cooked eggs and serve with Parotha (page 43), or Pita bread.
For stronger or milder curry add or reduce spices to your personal taste.
Chicken can be replaced by cooked beef, ground beef or cubed lamb. Because meat takes longer to cook it can be added before spices and cooked until tender or cooked meat can be used. For best results, curries can be cooked ahead of time and reheated thoroughly before serving.