2 • M o r n i n g J o u r n a l • G o l f G u i d e 2013 • M o n d a y, A p r i l 22 , 2013
M o r n i n g J o u r n a l • G o l f G u i d e 2013 • M o n d a y, A p r i l 22 , 2013 • 3
10 tips to improve your game 1. Anchor your foot. One of the most basic golf driving tips to get greater distance is to anchor you foot and your body behind the ball.
4. Relax your muscles and keep your grip light. At the top of your backswing, make a slight pause and maintain a light grip through the swing. To keep a light grip, relax the muscles in your forearms and also your fingers. If you do this, you will create a
This causes a loss in control of the club. A powerful, more controlled swing can achieved by controlling your wrists and rotating your body into the shot, thus resulting in a more distance. The foot you must anchor is the foot that is behind the ball. For right footed players it will be the right foot and the left foot for left handed players. If you lift your foot too soon when swing the club you will lose power and distance in the shot. 2. Keep your elbow touching to your hip. By keeping the right arm close to the hip you ensure the body will drive your arms and club through the ball impact. This will decrease the chances of your hands negatively influencing the shot. 3. Let the club do the work. A common misconception amongst golfers is that the harder they whack the ball, the further it will go. A handy golf driving tip is: Focus on the middle of the ball and the control you have over your swing. This will give you far better results than trying to increase the power of your swing.Hitting the ball too hard will invariably mean a slice or a fresh air shot. Relax, don’t rush the shot, concentrate on controlling your swing and the club will do the rest for you. Once you have mastered controlling your golf swing you can then gradually increase the power you use when driving the ball.
8. Keep fit. As with any game, you need a certain level of fitness to maintain the ability to play well. faster, brisker swing release through the ball impact. This will result in a longer drive. 5. Visualise the shot. When taking your practice swings you should try to imagine the shot you wish to hit. Make sure your swing feels comfortable and picture the balls flight when you practice swing. This technique will relax your body as well as your mind. Also, never take too many practice swings as the thought of fluffing the shot will build up in your mind and affect your confidence. 6. Rotate your hips vigorously. By energetically rotating you hips on the downswing you will bring your core muscles into play and this in turn will increase club head speed and therefore will result in a longer drive. Make sure you do this in a controlled manner and keep that foot anchored to prevent slicing the ball. 7. Use a short controlled back swing for a longer drive. A common failing amongst golfers is bringing the driver too far back during the back swing.
Tr y to per form some stretching exercises before every round of golf. If you have the time, a few trips to the gym each week will benefit your game immensely. 9. Try to hit your drives with minimal spin on the ball. To achieve this you can tee the ball up high. This will promote less spin on the ball as you will be hitting it from a more underneath position. Also, try to avoid moving forward over the ball on impact. This will always reduce spin. 10. Practice as often as possible. Even though you may be thinking “this is a cliché” … this point can never be stressed enough. Consistency in the amount of times you get out there and play is crucial to a good game. To hone your golfing skills you must play regularly. If you do not practice you will not improve. Each time you play you will learn to tweak your game a little bit more and bring the lessons you learned the previous week to the course with you the following week.
4 • M o r n i n g J o u r n a l • G o l f G u i d e 2013 • M o n d a y, A p r i l 22 , 2013
Chip without the chunk By Jim McLean from Golf Digest
Take your chipping setup, and check your back foot. If it's square, you're asking for poor contact. Angle it in, like I had my student do, and you'll hit better chips.
Photo by Walter Iooss Jr.
I was teaching a low-handicapper the other day who had a classic problem with his chipping: His lower body was frozen, so he wasn't rotating through the shot. He was stuck on his right side and throwing his hands at the ball, hitting chunks.
TOUR FACTS From within 10 yards of the hole, PGA Tour players last year chipped the ball on average to three feet, seven inches. That's almost gimme range. You might never be that good, but there's no reason you should always take three shots to hole out from just off the green. The last-ranked player in that stat chipped on average to five feet, and the pros make 80 percent of their putts of that distance. The way to get up and down more is to chip closer to the hole. Do that, and you'll clean up on your weekend bets.
His problem started with squaring his right foot at address, the toe of his shoe pointing straight out. This put his right knee in a stuck position, so he didn't have the fluid release of that knee on the downswing that you see from good chippers. I had him angle in his right foot 30 degrees. This did two things: (1) It put more weight on his left side, where it should be, and (2) it set up that natural shift of the knee, allowing him to pivot forward and hit down on the ball (right).
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Give more putts a chance
DO THIS... Swing the putterhead straight down your line (above left). Why? Because the first fundamental of good putting is being able to start the ball on the line you've picked, and swinging down that line is the simplest way to do it. The putterhead should move a little to the inside going back, then release down the line. By "release" I mean let the face rotate to the left as the putter swings straight. You'll give more putts a chance to go in. ...NOT THIS Don't try to swing the putter on an arc so it goes back to the inside in the follow-through (above right). If the putterhead goes left and the face rotates left—as it naturally does— you'll tend to pull the ball. I see golfers who get into the habit of holding the face open to avoid this miss. But that's adding another variable. Great putters have the fewest variables. Let the face rotate, and swing where you want the ball to go.
DON’T GUESS! GET CUSTOM FITTED! Proper club fitting can give you the consistency and distance you’ve been looking for. Match the club specifications with your swing. Your game will improve drastically. Your handicap will be driven down and you will enjoy the game more!
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6 • M o r n i n g J o u r n a l • G o l f G u i d e 2013 • M o n d a y, A p r i l 22 , 2013
A primer on buying golf clubs Golf has lots of jargon and it can be confusing. We have tried to include most of the terms we use and those you might see while shopping for golf clubs. Alloy Any combination of metals used to produce a club head or shaft. Alloys may contain aluminum, steel, beryllium, nickel, copper, titanium, or other metals in varying combinations. Less than honest descriptions of products often have the term “alloy” in them to hide the fact that the product may only contain trace elements of the desired metal. For example, “titanium alloy” may actually contain 98% aluminum and only 2% titanium which may be used to con-
fuse the consumer with “real titanium” that has high levels of titanium. Alloy is often a code word for substituting a cheap metal for an expensive metal. Back Weight A weight, usually tungsten, brass or aluminum attached to the back of a wooden, graphite or titanium wood head. The back weight moves the center of gravity toward the back of the club to assist in getting the ball airborne. Backspin The backward rotation of a golf ball in flight around a horizontal axis as caused by the club hitting the ball. The more loft on a club, the greater the backspin. Certain finishes on a club face (e.g., milling, brass-blasting) can
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also increase backspin. Balance Point The point where a shaft’s weight is evenly distributed in both directions when rested on a single point. Belly Putter Type of putter that positions the grip against the player’s stomach in order to create a pendulum ef fect from a relatively stable pivot point. Most belly putters are about 40” in length. Belly putters generally are available in several lengths to accommodate different bellies. Bent (or Curved) Shaft A shaft designed for use in no-hosel putters, featuring a bend or bends within 5” from the shaft tip. The curved shaft creates offset and face balancing. Beryllium Copper (BeCu) An alloy used to produce heads for some irons. More dense than stainless and some players claim it has a softer feel. Beryllium heads are easily identified by their copper coloration. Beta-Titanium An alloy of Titanium both harder and heavier than typical cast titanium. Big Butt Shaft Any shaft with a butt size over .620". Bi-Metal Describes club heads constructed from two different materials, for instance, a stainless steel club head with a brass sole insert or brass sole rails. Bi-Matrix Shaft Patented by True Temper, the BI-Matrix is a shaft that contains both graphite and steel. BI-Matrix wood shafts have a steel tip section, with the remainder being made of graphite. BI-Matrix irons
have a graphite tip for feel, with the remainder of the shaft being steel for control. Blade (or Face) The striking face of an iron head. Blade Style Head Blades are also known as muscle-back irons due to a possible concentration of weight directly behind the center of the club face. Predominately used by ver y experienced golfers. Boron A high strength element added to some graphite shafts to increase tip strength. Boron shafts are more expensive. Since the mid 1990’s boron has become less common as the technology of manufacturing graphite shafts has improved their strength and reduced torque considerably. Bounce The measurement from the leading edge of the club face to the groundline. Wedges typically have the most bounce in a set of clubs. Bounce helps these clubs go through sand and high grass easily. Bounce Angle When looking at the sole of a wedge you will notice the trailing edge hangs beneath the leading edge. This angle in relation to the ground plane is called bounce angle. Build-Up Tape Masking tape applied to the butt end of the shaft to increase grip size. A single layer of masking tape (.005” thick) will increase grip size approximately 1/64”. Bulge The curvature of the face of a wood or metal wood from heel to toe. Bulge helps give corrective spin to shots
M o r n i n g J o u r n a l • G o l f G u i d e 2013 • M o n d a y, A p r i l 22 , 2013 • 7 hit on the toe or heel of the wood face. Butt (shaft butt) The grip end of the shaft. Butt Cap The plastic or rubber cap at the top end of the grip. Also called the “End Cap." Camber The radius measurement of the sole of a club. A sole can be cambered from toe to heel, or from front to back, or both. Cavity Back An iron head with the weight is distributed toward the perimeter of the head. Cavity back irons are easily identified by their recessed area on the back of the head. Center of Gravity (CG) The point in a club head where all of the points of balance intersect. The lower the CG, the higher the ball flight. Higher CG clubs produce lower ball flight. Center-Shafted Hosel configuration where the shaft enters the head toward the center. Most common in putters. Chrome Plated Finish High-luster, shiny finish electrostatically applied to forged irons and to steel shafts. Component Parts used to assemble golf clubs. The three primary components of a golf club are the head, shafts and grips. Other components include ferrules, labels, tape, and epoxy. Compression The hardness of a golf ball, identified by a number a higher number indicates a ball that requires more force to compress it. Lower compression balls flatten more when hit. 100 would be a high compression golf ball, 80 would be a low compression golf ball.
Compression Molded Manufacturing method for graphite heads and face inser ts where layers of graphite are placed upon one another and heat cured to create a clubhead or insert. Conforming Club A golf club that conforms to standards set by the USGA. Core (Grip) Inside diameter measurement of a grip, which determines the size of the grip. Core size does not match shaft butt sizes. The standard core size for a man’s grip is .620”, for a lady is .590”, but both use the same shaft butt size. Cover Outside surface of a golf ball. The cover may be one of any number of materials, Surlyn and balata being most common. Crown The top of the head of a wood or metal wood. It’s what the golfer sees at address. Cubic Centimeters (cc’s) Measurement of the volume of a wood head. Curved (or Bent) Shaft A shaft designed for use in no-hosel putters, featuring a bend or bends within 5” from the shaft tip. The curved shaft creates offset and face balancing. Deep Face A club face with higher than average distance from the sole of the club to the crown. Deep face clubs have a higher CG and launch the ball on a lower trajectory. Diamond Face A face coating containing fine diamond cr ystals to enhance backspin and face wear. Primarily used on wedges. Die Cast Injection of material into a pre-formed die to form club
heads. This process is generally used on lower-priced heads such as zinc alloy irons and aluminum alloy woods. It is also commonly used on putters made from brass and zinc. Driver The club that used to hit the ball for the first shot on a par 4 or par 5 hole. The longest hitting club in the set. Drivers commonly have lofts between 7 and 12 degrees. Driving Iron A golf club with low loft and a muscle or hollow body similar to a wood. The driving iron is a utility club most commonly used by golfers who have difficulty hitting their long irons. Face (or Blade) The striking face of an iron head. Face Angle Position of the club face relative to the intended line
of ball flight. For right-handed golfers, a square face angle aligns directly at the target; an open face aligns to the right, while a closed face aligns left. Face Insert An epoxy, graphite or fibrous material in the center portion of the face on a wooden, composite, or metal head. Ferrule Decorative trim ring, directly on top of the hosel on many woods and irons. Flat Lie A lie flatter than specification. For example, if the spec is 60 degrees, a 2 degree flat club would have a lie angle of 58 degrees. Flex The relative bending properties of a golf club shaft. Flex is usually identified by a letter: L for ladies, A for senior, R for regular, S for stiff and X for extra stiff. Graphite
ARE YOU FEELING UP TO PAR? Lower Back Pain, Wrist Pain or Shoulder Pain
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8 • M o r n i n g J o u r n a l • G o l f G u i d e 2013 • M o n d a y, A p r i l 22 , 2013 shafts commonly use the term Firm instead of Stiff for Firm and Extra Firm graphite shafts. Flexible Face A golf club face designed to “flex” upon ball impact, potentially propelling the ball a longer distance than if the face did not flex. See also “Spring-Like Ef fect” or “Trampoline Effect”. Flow Weighting Head design where weight positioning shifts from one club to the next. For example, a #1 iron may have more weight concentrated on its toe, a #2 iron slightly less, and so on. Also called Progressive Weighting. Form Forged Iron club head manufacturing process in which a club is first investment cast from an alloy of carbon steel and then formed to shape
through a series of forging dies. 431 Stainless Steel Stainless steel used in iron and putter head construction, not more than 20% carbon, 15-17% chromium, and 1.252.5% nickel, with the remainder being iron and a few trace elements. The most common iron making material in high quality irons. Softer than 17-4 stainless steel. Forged Titanium A method of wood head manufacture in which the body and sole of the head is forged from 100% pure titanium. The face and hosels are usually cast from 6-4 Ti. Forging Producing a golf club head from a series of forging dies stamping the head to final shape. Forged heads are made of softer metals than cast heads and require hand finishing and chrome plating.
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Gear Effect The effect that tends to cause a ball hit toward the toe or heel side of face center to curve back to the intended target line. Gooseneck A putter (or iron) that has an extremely offset hosel. Graphite Synthetic filament material used for shaft and head production, produced through a series of heating steps. Graphite fibers may differ greatly in strength and modulus. Grip Collar Plastic collar used to secure the bottom of a grip in place on the shaft. Most commonly seen on leather grips. Gunmetal Dark, almost black, finish applied to the surface of iron heads for cosmetic reasons or to prevent rusting of a carbon steel head. Heel-Toe Weighting A type of club head design with weight positioned toward the heel and toe of the clubhead, resulting in stabilizing the clubhead (and produce straighter shots) on off-center impacts. High-Modulus Graphite A shaft material stif fer than standard graphite. The higher the modulus of graphite, the lower its compression strength. High Polish Finish Shiny (mirror) finish applied to stainless steel iron heads through a series of polishing operations. Hook Face A wood with a closed face angle. Hook face woods may help players who slice to hit the ball straight. Horizontal Flow Weighting Distributing weight from club to club in a set of irons, with the highest concentration of weight moving from
the toe of the longer irons to the heel of the shorter irons. Hosel The entr y point of the shaft into the head on any golf club. Inset Hosel A club design with the hosel toward the center of the club face in an attempt to reduce head twisting. Leading Edge The front edge of the clubface. Lie The angle from the shaft to the ground line when the club is measured in normal playing position. Lift Upward force on a golf ball as it flies. Lightweight Shaft A shaft that falls within 3.80-4.24 ounces in steel or alloy shafts and within 3.203.60 ounces in composite shafts. Loft The angle of the clubface that controls trajectory and affects distance. Low Balance Point (LBP) A shaft with a high percentage of its weight toward the tip. Low Profile Head An iron or wood head that is shor ter from topline to soleline than typical. Mallet A type of putter head identified by its broad appearance from front to back when positioned at address. Maraging Steel A steel alloy harder than are non-maraging steels such as 17-4 and 15-5. Maraging steel is commonly used in club face applications, rather than in entire club heads. Melonite A black corrosion-resistant plating applied to some club heads. Milled Face A club face milled to .001”
M o r n i n g J o u r n a l • G o l f G u i d e 2013 • M o n d a y, A p r i l 22 , 2013 • 9 for flatness to promote smoother roll. Midsize Wood Any wood with a clubhead around 185cc in size. Modulus The measure of a fiber’s stif fness or resistance to bending. The higher the modulus, the stiffer the material. Muscleback Iron See Blade Style Iron. Non-Conforming Club A club whose construction does not allow it to be played in any event (either professional, amateur or club-level) as sanctioned by USGA Rules. Non-Conforming Club (Driver) List A list of clubs (particularly drivers) that do not conform to USGA equipment requirements. Offset The distance from the forward most point of the hosel to the leading edge of the blade. Offset will help a player to align the club face with the target, reducing a slice, and may produce higher ball flight. Oversize Iron Head Any iron head larger 43 millimeters and a blade length of 75 mm. Oversize Wood Head A wood head with volume greater than 200 cc’s. Perimeter Weighting Redistributing weight on a club head to the heel and toe in an attempt to stabilize the club on all types of impacts. Progressive Offset Iron sets with longer irons having more of fset and shorter irons having less. Progressive Weighting Head design where weight positioning shifts from one club to the next. For example, a #1 iron may have more weight concentrated on its toe, a #2 iron
slightly less, and so on. Also called Flow Weighting. Rails Raised areas on the soles of metal woods, lowering the center of gravity of the club and providing less resistance as the club travels through the turf. Rescue A name given to any number of clubs that combine features of a wood and an iron. “Rescue” is also the trademarked name of this type of club from TaylorMade that began the trend. See also “Hybrid." Roll The measure of face curvature from crown to sole on woods. Sandblast Light gray finish applied to the some iron and wood heads. Applied using an air compressor and sandblasted with aluminum oxide sand. Satin Finish "Brushed” finish applied to some stainless steel iron heads and metal wood soles by finishing belts. Scoring Lines Lines or grooves on the face of an iron or wood club. 17-4 Stainless Steel Stainless steel alloy used in Iron and metal wood head construction. 17-4 is no more than 0.07% Carbon, between 15 and 17% Chromium, 4% Nickel, 2.75% Copper, and 75% Iron and trace elements. Harder than 431 stainless steel. Shallow Face Any wood or iron having a face height shorter than normal. 6-4 Titanium Titanium is used in wood heads manufactured with the formula 6Al-4V: these are 90% Titanium, 6% Aluminum and 4% Vanadium. Titanium is often used in oversize and larger heads.
Sole The bottom or underside of any type of golf club. It is where the club rests on the ground in playing position. Sole Weighted Iron An iron head with the majority of its weight concentrated near the sole of the club, producing a lower center of gravity. Sole Width The measure of a sole from the leading edge to the trailing edge. A narrow sole is better from firmer ground; wide soles are helpful in getting the ball airborne from softer ground. Sole Camber The curvature from the leading edge to the trailing edge. Spring-Like Effect A golf club face designed to “flex” upon ball impact, potentially propelling the ball a longer distance than if the
face did not flex. See also “Flexible Face” and “Trampoline Effect”. Square (Box, “U”) Grooves Face lines or grooves pressed, cut, or cast into a rectangular shape. Standard Size Wood Any wood head with volume of around 150cc. Standard Weight Shaft A steel shaft within the range of 4.25-4.62 ounces. Step Where the diameter of a steel shaft “steps up” noticeably to a larger diameter. Stepless Steel shafts without"steps up" in diameter. FMC Rifle and Apollo Balistik are stepless shafts. Step Pattern The pattern made by the sequence of steps of a steel shaft which vary by manufacturer and shaft model.
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1 0 • M o r n i n g J o u r n a l • G o l f G u i d e 2013 • M o n d a y, A p r i l 22 , 2013 Strong Loft A club, usually an iron, with loft that is less than the standard specification for that club. Stronger lofted clubs tend to hit the ball lower and longer than standard lofts, but may sacrifice some control. Super-Steel Alloys of steel that are stronger and lighter than 174 stainless. Swingweight A club’s weight distribution around a fixed fulcrum point. The fulcrum point is typically 14” from the butt of the club. It is measured in alpha-numeric units such as D-1, D-2, and so on with higher letter-number units indicating more weight in the head relative to the grip. Ti-Alloy Alloy used for wood heads that contains some Titanium, but a much larger amount of
less expensive (generally Aluminum) alloys. Tip Stiff A shaft with a tip stiffer than the rest of the shaft. Tip stif f shafts are generally designed with harder swinging players in mind. Titanium Club head metal primarily for woods with a higher strength-to-weight ratio than most steel alloys. See also Forged Titanium and 6-4 Titanium. Topline The top part of an iron blade, running from heel to toe visible to the golfer at address. Torque Measure of a shaft’s resistance to twisting. Low torque shafts twist less and are recommended for stronger players. Total Weight Weight of the entire
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assembled club as expressed in ounces or grams. Trajectory The shape and height of a golf ball’s flight in relation to its direction. Trampoline Effect A golf club face designed to “flex” upon ball impact, potentially propelling the ball a longer distance than if the face did not flex. See also “Flexible Face” and “SpringLike Effect”. Trailing Edge The back edge of the sole. Tri-Metal A club head comprised of three separate metals. Trouble Club Clubs used to play the ball from a difficult lie. Trouble clubs often have unusual sole construction - perhaps rails that lower the center of gravity. Trouble clubs may be irons, woods or hybrids. Tungsten A heavy steel/tungsten compound is used to add weight to a club head, either as a swingweighting material in the shaft or as a defined weight attached somewhere in/on the head. U-Groove Used in iron face structure, more pronounced than “V” grooves. See “Square Groove."
Ultralight Shaft Composite shafts weighing less than 2.00 ounces or 65 grams. Upright Lie A club’s lie that is more upright than the standard specification for that particular head. V Grooves Face grooves pressed, cut, or cast into a “V” shape during club manufacture. Velocity The speed of a golf ball. Vertical Flow Weighting Club set weighting with weight shifting ver tically from a concentration of weight toward the sole of long irons to more traditional weighting on short irons. Volume The measurement of the size of a wood head as measured by liquid displacement.
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M o r n i n g J o u r n a l • G o l f G u i d e 2013 • M o n d a y, A p r i l 22 , 2013 • 1 1
1 2 • M o r n i n g J o u r n a l • G o l f G u i d e 2013 • M o n d a y, A p r i l 22 , 2013
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