AA Traveller by AA.Traveller

90 years

traveller WINTER 2020

EXPLORE Maropeng

Sterkfontein Cederberg

LEKKER CURRIES

for the cold!

EPIC TOUR

A couple's journey through Africa

COVID-19'S IMPACT ON TOURISM

7 Days in

When will we travel again?

South Namibia

ADVICE AND TIPS! Protect yourself against crime Become a birder 10 essential car checks Learn how to photograph silhouettes Family car reviews How to pack a first aid kit

Editor's letter

EDITOR

Gerda Engelbrecht gerda.engelbrecht@media24.com

ART DIRECTOR

Sally Cronjé

COPY EDITOR

Petro-Anne Vlok REPRODUCTION

Dewald Spies PRODUCTION

Kerry Nash

CEO: MEDIA24

Ishmet Davidson CEO: PRINT MEDIA

Rika Swart

GM: LIFESTYLE

Minette Ferreira GM: COMMERCIAL

Nerisa Coetzee

FINANCE MANAGER

Jameelah Conway

CIRCULATION MANAGER

Armand Kasselman

BUSINESS MANAGER – SALES

Danie Nell danie.nell@media24.com GENERAL ENQUIRIES

Donvé Myburgh donve.myburgh@media24.com COVER IMAGE EVAN NAUDÉ

PRINTED BY CTP PRINTERS

DISTRIBUTED BY ON THE DOT

WE WILL SEE THE WORLD AGAIN The Fearless Girl, a meter-high bronze statue, has become a symbol of determination and bravery since it made its appearance in March 2017. Done on the quiet and without permission before Women’s Day in America, this statue was erected in front of the Wall Street Bull statue in Manhattan. Initially, it was part of a marketing campaign by a financial institution that supports women’s rights, but it quickly evolved into a universal symbol of resolve – an inspiration for any David taking on a Goliath. I saw a replica of this statue in Oslo at the start of December 2019, less than three weeks after the first case of Covid-19 was diagnosed in China. I was on my way to Bergen, Norway, where I would board a ship to experience the northern lights. I was blissfully unaware of how drastically our lives would be turned upside down in a few weeks’ time. So much has changed since that day in Oslo. When the previous issue of AA Traveller was sent to the printers, we had no idea of how this new virus would bring the world to a halt and destroy lives. In the weeks that we’ve been confined to our homes, and as the world watched in shock as the infection rate surpassed the hundreds, thousands and later million mark, I’ve often thought of the Fearless Girl. This pandemic is our generations Goliath. The winter issue of AA Traveller was finalised just as South Africa emerged from its hard lockdown. The tourism and media industries have been hard hit by the imposed restrictions. In 2019, tourism created about 1,5 million job opportunities, keeping millions fed. For the moment, we must still stay home for our own safety, but the day will come when we can leave our homes again and face the world. Then we must do all we can to support this industry, even if it means we must keep our face masks on and hand sanitiser close by. I’m looking forward to this day. I hope we can all be fearless and determined through the rest of 2020.

Gerda

Gerda_travel

There has been another big change since the previous issue of AA Traveller: Media24 has taken over the publication of the magazine. “For the last 90 years, the AA has been a trusted role player in the car industry, and Media24 is looking forward to forging a long and meaningful relationship with them,” says Nerisa Coetzee, General Manager: Commercial, who will manage the publication of the magazine going forward. We welcome reader contributions to the letters page, photography section and travel section. Contact us at AA@media24.com. If you would like to advertise in AA Traveller, e-mail danie.nell@media24.com.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

54 Contents 3

8 4

10 11

Welcome, welcome A word from the new AA Traveller team

Letter from the AA CEO This is how we can help the economy recover

AA column - Family is important When buying a new car, put safety first

Just for dad

The land of the big empty Head to the south of Namibia with Evan Naudé’s seven-day travel plan

Hike where the Karoo silence sings A lecturer clears her head on a four-day hike

Birds of a feather A Cape Town advocate describes how he became a birder and shares his top tips on how to get started

Spoil him with the perfect gift

Ocean migration & armchair safari Even Covid-19 can't stop this magnificent natural occurrence

TRAVEL

Tourism in a post-Covid world The global pandemic has brought this industry to a standstill. We will travel again, but it probably won’t be soon, say experts.

Do you feel safe? A new AA product aims to help South Africans feel less afraid of being victims of crime.

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

Welcome home! Discover humankind's roots at Maropeng and Sterkfontein

Peaceful & unexpected Have an early morning flight from Lanseria? Treat yourself and stay at this nearby private game reserve

The Cederberg is wonderful in winter You might think of it as a summer destination, but CapeNature’s cosy cottages make it the perfect getaway for the colder months

Take the long road A South African and an Aussie go on an once in a lifetime trip through Africa

Contents

18 PHOTOGRAPHY

Cool cameras Canon's newest addition to their R series is a game changer

MOTORING 68

Serious silhouettes A photographer shares her top tips

LIFESTYLE 58

64 66

44 53

If the vellie ďŹ ts These handmade leather shoes have taken the fashion world by storm

78 80

Some like it hot!

Fit the whole family If you're in the market for a family car, consider the Haval H2, Peugeot 5008, Toyota Corolla Sedan and Lexus RX

First impressions Motoring journalist Juliet McGuire gets behind the wheel of the KIA Seltos, Toyota C-HR, Land Rover Discovery Sport and Suzuki S-Presso

Be road ready Ten must-do car checks

Kitted for medical mishaps Make sure you have these items in your ďŹ rst aid kit

Keep warm this winter with these curry recipes

Brainteasers Complete our puzzles

Ideal reading for cold winter nights Travel to faraway places with our selection of books, which range from travel guides to a fast-paced crime novel

THE LAST WORD When reality is so much better than the dream Writer Sophia Kapp thinks back on her perfect European holiday

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

The AA at your service

ACCREDITED SALES AGENTS GET IN TOUCH

EASTERN CAPE

Travel Experience, Port Elizabeth: 041-368-6452 Harvey World Travel, East London: 043-726-0601

To update your AA membership details, phone 0861-000-234, send an e-mail to aasa@aasa.co.za or visit aa.co.za.

FREE STATE

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THE AA IS ON CALL 24/7! CALL 0861-000-234 DID YOU KNOW?

Claiming from the Road Accident Fund (RAF) doesn't have to be a schlep. With the AA’s Added Value for Accidents service, you will get help when you lodge a RAF claim, ensuring you receive the compensation you deserve. You can then use this amount to cover your medical bills, loss of income or funeral expenses. With Added Value for Accidents, there are no additional costs to you, or the lawyers involved, and the AA will handle the paperwork from start to finish, so you can focus on what matters most.

WHO CAN CLAIM

• Any AA member who has subscribed to Added Value for Accidents and has been injured because of a negligent driver • The spouse or dependant of a deceased victim • A close relative of the deceased can claim for funeral expenses

WHAT CAN YOU CLAIM

• Past and future hospital and medical expenses • Past and future loss of income or earnings • Past and future loss of support for dependants of a deceased or disabled victim • General damages for pain, suffering and disfigurement in terms of bodily injury • Necessary funeral expenses

WHAT DOES THE AA OFFER?

• Medical and legal administrative support at a time when you need it most • Convenient, hassle-free administration and claims management so that you receive the full RAF claim amounts owed to you • Rapid turnaround times with regular progress reports on the status of your claim • 100 percent of all RAF compensation is paid out to you with no additional costs For more information on how to subscribe to the service, visit www.aa.co.za/products/value-added

Stay up to date with the latest industry news by following the AA on Facebook: AASouthAfrica, Twitter: AASouthAfrica or at www.aa.co.za. AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

Travel Experience, Menlyn: 012-348-2522 Travel Experience, Benmore: 011-884-4104 Travel Experience, Park Meadows: 011-615-7946 AA Cresta: 011-478-5312 Travel Experience, Boksburg: 074-175-2709 Travel Experience, Centurion: 012-653-5513 Voetspore 4×4, Mega World: 012-940-8999 AA Foreign Travel, Kyalami: 011-799-1042 KWAZULU-NATAL

Travel Experience, Musgrave: 031-201-5244 Travel Experience, La Lucia: 031-572-7852 Hilton Travel: 033-343-1380 Harvey World Travel, Shelly Beach: 039-315-6330 MPUMALANGA

Dana Travel Agency, Nelspruit: 013-753-3571 WESTERN CAPE

Club Travel, Tyger Valley: 021-914-2265 Constantiaberg Travel: 021-715-2850 Travel Experience, Cavendish Square: 021-683-1410 Harvey World Travel, George: 044-874-6930

Letter from the AA CEO

We are not alone Dear Member, Lockdown, lockdown, lockdown. This seems to be the one thing on everyone’s minds right now. When will it end? Will I be able to go out? Is our economy going to be alright? Will my children finish the school year? The lockdown has thrown us into a strange new world. The future is uncertain, and I certainly don’t have all the answers. What I do know is that we are not alone. The Automobile Association of South Africa is a member of the Fédération Internationale de l’Automobile (FIA) and the Alliance Internationale de Tourisme (AIT), and we spend a lot of time working with our international friends on various projects and initiatives. Through my interaction with my foreign colleagues I can tell you that our situation at the tip of Africa is not unique. Our friends in Europe also have concerns about their children’s education, about their economies and about how the future is going to be different to what they knew before. Our situation in South Africa is similar to what countries elsewhere in the world are experiencing. The global community is facing a global crisis, and this is uniting the world like never before. I am acutely aware that South Africa has its own particular set of challenges, but there are many, many similarities between us and others. The debates around political motives which inform decisions locally is, I believe, unfounded and unfair. I genuinely believe that our government has a real desire to deal with this pandemic effectively. We need to temper our own responses to government’s

interventions through this prism. One major concern which we all share is the impact the pandemic is having on tourism. Europe, like South Africa, relies heavily on tourists and the trade they bring. With this revenue stream now cut off, the outlook for many businesses is dire. What can be done about this? This edition of the AA Traveller magazine holds some answers. Within these pages, which have been expertly put together by our new publishing partners at Media24, you will read about exciting destinations and getaways right here on our doorstep. My advice to you, no, my appeal to you, is to consider travelling when we are allowed to do so again. But, instead of looking at foreign destinations, travel locally first. You may have explored our beautiful country many times before, but there is always something new out there, and, importantly, your local travel will also have a dual purpose: re-investing in our amazing tourism sector. And, while you’re traversing across our country again, visit those little places you never got to before and drop in at those family-run shops you always drive past. This is one tangible way you can help revive a hurting industry. From my own experience I know that this lockdown is not easy. It’s tough emotionally and financially. But hang in there. Believe that this will pass because it will. Believe that what we’re going through is a precursor to better things which lie ahead because they are. We are a resilient and innovative

MY ADVICE TO YOU, NO, MY APPEAL TO YOU, IS TO CONSIDER TRAVELLING WHEN WE ARE ALLOWED TO DO SO AGAIN.

country with human riches beyond our understanding. We have in our ranks men and women – just like you – who will not let anything slow them down. Let’s all learn from these people and take with us their can-do spirit no matter what. This, I think, is going to be vital to our success after the lockdown ends. I mentioned earlier that this edition of the magazine is published by our new partners at Media24. The team working with us has been incredible, and I thank them for their hands-on approach. Most of you will be reading this electronically. This is because we are unable to post copies due to the SA Post Oﬃce shutdown. However, we are able to send copies of the magazine to those subscribers who have provided home addresses for delivery. Updating your details with us (or doing it yourself online or through the AA app) will enable us to get a hard copy to you while the SAPO can not. Be safe, drive carefully (if you are driving) and stay strong. We will get through this together.

Willem Groenewald CEO | AASA

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Opinion

Family is important – look after them

T 8

here are few things in life as important as family. At the AA, we are blessed that this is an important part of the company’s culture. It’s also an important factor in the way the AA does business, and it often informs the issues or projects we're involved in. One such example is our annual Entry-Level Vehicle Safety Report in which we assess the safety features of new entry-level vehicles (priced below R200 000). It's a fairly new project from the AA, and it came about after so many people asked us what vehicles are safe to buy for their children. So, we went searching for and developed a model that can be used to rate the safety features on vehicles. It’s not perfect, but it gives buyers a better understanding of what they’re getting with specific models. Our ongoing advocacy programmes on pedestrian safety, driving training, tips for new drivers and driving in certain conditions are also geared towards making the roads safer for you and your family. This brings me #SaferCarsforAfrica, another one of our major safety programmes. This is a Global New Car Assessment Programme (NCAP) initiative, and as a member of the Fédération Internationale de

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

l'Automobile, the AA is heavily involved from a South African perspective. In a nutshell, the Global NCAP identifies mainly entry-level vehicles that are available locally and serve as passenger vehicles. A short-list of vehicles is drawn up, and three to five are selected for testing. The short-listed cars are then bought anonymously from dealers across Gauteng and shipped to Munich, Germany, via sea freight, where they are crash tested in the German Automobile Club’s crash test facility (yes, they have their own facility). The engineers performing the tests are world-class (and a great bunch of people to boot), and they perform crash tests around 258 days of the year. The tests are not only for the Global NCAP but other organisations as well, and the results are credible and authentic (and accepted by all manufacturers who are allowed to view the test while it’s happening). The test rates vehicle safety for both the front (driver and passenger) and back occupants (including a baby in a car seat). One star is a poor showing; five is good. Of the 12 cars South Africa has tested since 2017, three have earned four star ratings for front occupants. And the Renault Sandero achieved a four-star rating for back occupants, the highest

result so far. To date, no car r we’ve sent for testing has w achieved five stars for either front or back occupancy. f I mention this because it’s mportant that buyers im understand what they’re getting when they part with their hard-earned cash, not just for themselves, but also, critically, if they're buying a car for their children. Yes, those wheels look great. Yes, the speakers are awesome. Yes, the colour is to die for… But will this car be safe if my child is involved in a crash? If you are buying a new or second-hand car for yourself or for someone in your family, it’s worth the time to read up on its safety features and, if available, safety rating. Don’t settle on a vehicle only because it looks good or because your child really, really wants that specific model. Safety ratings on vehicles are relatively new in South Africa, and unfortunately many people still don't check what safety features are available on cars. But this may change as more and more people ask about and push for safety ratings (as it has in North America and Europe). Family is important and we want to do what we can to protect them. One way you can do this is by investigating safety ratings through #SaferCarsforAfrica. Follow me on Twitter @LaytonBeard

Main image: Getty/Gallo Images

BY LAYTON BEARD, PR MANAGER: AA

Hospitality

www.qa.aatravel.co.za

Accomodation

011 799 1148 |

qainfo@aasa.co.za

In stores

IS THAT A LEOPARD IN THE DISTANCE?

Binoculars don’t take up too much space in the car, and it can mean the difference between a successfu ul game drive or a disappointing one. The Bushnell H20 10x42 binocularss are waterproof and small enough to fit in your pocket, so you can alsso use them when you go fishing or o on boat trips.

FOR THE NEAT FREAK

Fed up with backpacks that rip? Or with potjies and braai grills that leave dark marks all over your boot? Then you’ll love Camp Cover’s range of backpacks, tog bags and coverings for crates and cooking equipment. These products are made from durable canvas, so they’re tough enough for when you travel rough. This 15 x 2 x 27cm canvas pouch can be fastened to your car’s sun visor with hook-and-loop fasteners. Use it to store your licence, car documents, Wild Card and credit card (or cash for toll gates) while on a road trip. When making a stop, simply unfasten it and take it with you. So convenient!

JUST FOR

dadd

Father’s Day isn’t the only time of year when you should spoil your dad. Here are a few reliable, must-have items he’ll love to own and use. use

THE POLAR STANLEY

We all love the iconic olive green Stanley series, but have you seen this beauty? This flask will keep 0,73 litres (enough for two tin mugs) of fluid piping hot for up to 20 hours and weighs just over 1 kg. It’s ideal for day hikes and picnics. It’s also available as a litre flask. PRICE R659 (0,73 litre) and R699 (1 litre) at campandclimb.co.za

READY FOR WINTER

Diehards who love to head outside in winter live by the refrain that there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad equipment. Hi-Tec’s Apex 3-in-1’s outer shell can be worn as a hiking rain jacket, while the inner fleece is perfect for chilly nights. Zip the two together for a warmer winter jacket jacket. T The V-Lite Ox-Trails are waterpro oof with grooves on the soles tha at give proper grip when tackling g mountain trails. PRICE E Apex 3-in-1, R1 999 (also available in black and as a women's jacket) and V-Lite Ox-Trail, R999 (for both men and wo omen). Available at hi-ttec.co.za or Hi-Tec stores.

PRICE R153 at campcover.co.za

This selection of products was chosen by the editorial staff, and the various brand featured didn’t pay for the exposure. All prices mentioned can change without notice. Delivery costs are not factored into the prices. The editorial staff can’t accept responsibility for or orders orders.

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

Images supplied

a PRICE R2 390 at ormsdirect.co.za

On the calendar

OCEAN MIGRATION & ARMCHAIR SAFARI

Here are our top picks of highlights happening over the next three months.

Images: Gerda Engelbrecht

THE SARDINE RUN At the time of going to print, there was uncertainty about which festivals and fairs would still go ahead in 2020. There is, however, one yearly highlight that won’t be derailed by Covid-19: the annual sardine run along the south coast of KwaZulu-Natal. Africa has a number of breath-taking natural occurrences that you must e: experience at least once in your lifetime the wildebeest migration in Zambia and the Serengeti, the bat migration in Zambia and the few weeks per year when in St. Lucia leatherback turtle hatchlings make a mad dash across the beach to reach the safety of the ocean. Add to this list the sardine run on KZN’s south coast. Oceansafrica.com describes this event as the largest biomass migration on the planet. It is caused by seasonal

changes in the ocean’s currents, which cause sardines to travel northward along the east coast to the South Coast of KZN. What does it entail Billions of fish migrate past coastal towns, bringing with them an abundance of sea animals and birds that results in a feeding frenzy. The beaches also bustle with activity as fishing boats (with fishing licences) come to shore with dragnets filled with sardines.

When Sardines don’t keep to tight schedules. According to locals, one day you’ll simply spot whales through your binoculars, or you’ll see boats head out and return with full nets. Usually the Facebook page “Sardine Run 2020” shares updates. Remember, you’ll only be allowed to travel to these areas or visit the beach if the current lockdown level allows it. Be sure to stay within the rule of the law. If we’re still under strict lockdown measures, rather go next year. Another tip If you are allowed back on the beach, be careful of going for a swim. During the sardine run, shark nets are lifted all along the coast, and you don’t want a shark mistaking you for a delicious morsel. T run usually goes hand in hand The w several “human” activities: with g tournaments, mountain bike golf r races, street festivals and fairs, but t this year that won’t be the case.

ARE YOU SUFFERING FROM KRUGER WITHDRAWAL SYMPTOMS? If you can’t make it one of South Africa’s national parks, don’t fret. Wild Earth streams two live game drives every day. Their broadcasts (from 06:00 to 09:00 and 15:00 to 18:00) are specifically geared towards kids. SANparks has also installed several cameras next to popular watering holes in their parks. Some broadcast a photo, which is refreshed every few minutes, but others are live streams. So, if you see lions hunting down a springbok, you’re seeing it in real time. Visit wildearth.tv/safarilive (or search "Wild Earth" on YouTube) and sanparks.org/webcams.

WINTER 2020 | AATraveller

TOURISM IN A POST-COVID WORLD

Will we be able to travel again? It’s a question that’s on many people’s minds. Experts believe that it’s not a matter of if, but when, and when we’re free to venture out again, travelling will be very different. BY PETRO-ANNE VLOK

ven as some countries, including South Africa, start easing their lockdown regulations, the light at the end of the Covid-19 tunnel seems so far off that it’s difficult to predict what the post-pandemic world will look like. While the future is still uncertain, it’s clear that the pandemic has hit economies hard, and tourism is one of the sectors that has suffered the most. At the time of going to press, South Africa was under lockdown level 4. As a

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

non-essential and high-risk sector, the tourism industry has ground to a halt. Recreational travel is banned, hotels and guest houses have shut their doors (except for quarantine or essential services) and international flights are only allowed to expatriate South Africans or repatriate foreigners. “Covid-19 has been devastating for the tourism sector internationally and locally,” SA Tourism CEO Sisa Ntshona says. “Although the true impact cannot be

accurately quantified right now, it will be felt long after Covid-19 has passed.” Odette Faling, Travelcheck and WannaGo Travel CEO, agrees the industry has been hard hit, but she believes that it’ll make a comeback. “There is a raw desire to connect, it is a common theme in human behaviour. We believe that the desire to travel will return, and people will start looking for different kinds of experiences.”

Covid-19

distancing and hygiene standards) may restart earlier than high-risk activities like festivals and conferences. Same goes for certain regions. “If there are no cases in the Northern Cape, can we push for activities in tourism to go fully operational within the province?” the minister asked. She added that the tourism sector needs to think of creative ways in which it can derisk itself.

POST-COVID-19 TRAVEL

ADDITIONAL SOURCES: IOL.CO.ZA; SABCNEWS.COM; SIMPLIFLYING.COM; TIMESLIVE.CO.ZA; ZA.LINKEDIN.COM Image: Getty/Gallo Images

WHEN WILL WE BE ABLE TO TRAVEL AGAIN?

There is no definite answer. “It’s too early to tell,” Sisa says. “It's completely dependent on the trajectory of the pandemic in South Africa and the government’s risk adjusted approach.” Under the current lockdown levels, which may change as the situation develops, restrictions on normal domestic air travel, car rental services and movement between provinces will only be loosened under level 2, and limited international flights will first be allowed under level 1. What does this mean to you and me? When will we be allowed to head to local tourist attractions or our dream overseas destination? Not anytime soon, it seems. In a best-case scenario domestic tourism will only get going in the first week of December. This is according to Minister of Tourism Mmamoloko Kubayi-Ngubane. Speaking at a webinar hosted by SA Tourism, she added that it’s highly unlikely that any international tourism will take place this year. She stressed that these dates are only estimates and not set in stone. On the brighter side, it’s possible that certain types of business could get going earlier than others. Smaller hotels and restaurants (who adhere to social

The way we travel will change dramatically. “The whole sector will be pushing the restart button. Consumer demands will set the trends shaping the industry as it emerges from the crisis,” Sisa says. These demands will include stringent hygiene measures and social distancing. “We envisage the post-Covid-19 traveller would want to have the assurance and confidence that their personal safety will be taken into account. Travelling into spaces with large numbers of people and large events will be a serious consideration.” Experts predict that local tourism will take off first. “All indicators suggest that the recovery will initially be driven by domestic, regional and ultimately international travel,” he adds. But it'll be a slow start. Odette predicts that after the lockdown, local travel will only be at 30 percent of pre-lockdown capacity. And even if you’re allowed to travel, it’s suspected that the government will issue guidelines, for example the wearing of masks, washing hands, avoiding physical contact and social distancing, that will inform the way we travel. This may mean, for example, a museum is only allowed a certain number of visitors at a time, or hotels are only allowed to operate at 50 percent capacity. Even after air travel gets the green light, people may still be wary of flying and prefer to travel by car. But the industry is looking at ways to quell these fears. Airline FlySafair has added a R20 Covid-19 fee to each flight to implement

the following: • Each night, airplane cabins will be deep cleaned, and antibacterial and antiviral steriliser will be used to clean the cabins between flights. • Crew and passengers will have their temperatures checked before boarding, and no one with a temperature over 38°C will be allowed to board. • Upon boarding, passengers will be given hand sanitiser and they can request extra throughout the flight. • Masks will be mandatory throughout the flight. FlySafair will provide passengers with sealed, sterilised masks. • There will be a no touch policy between passengers and staff, as well as no infight magazines or catering services. • Air recycling systems will renew the cabin air every few minutes • Isle and window seats will be allocated first before the middle seats are filled. Customers also have the option of choosing a block out seat option which will keep the middle seat free. In April, SimpliFlying, an airline marketing strategy firm, released a report detailing how the life of an airplane passenger could change. They predict that passengers will need a type of health passport that confirms they have Covid-19 antibodies (like the yellow fever card you require when travelling from certain areas). They’ll also have to arrive much earlier to undergo health tests and scans, pass through a disinfection tunnel and have their luggage disinfected. Seats will be assigned to optimise social distancing, and passengers will w be handed masks and gloves. Social distancing will w be strictly implemented in departure lounges. Flight schedules will also be impacted. The deep-cleaning of cabins between flights will bring to an end the 30-minute turnaround time between landing and take-off. December is still so far away, and the measures mentioned above seem extreme, but at least it paves the way of us to see the world again after Covid-19.

TOURISM INDUSTRY WILL HAVE TO THINK OF CREATIVE WAYS IN WHICH THEY CAN DERISK THEMSELVES.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

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Special report: safety

Do you feel safe?

More than 76 percent of South Africans say they have been victims of crimes, ranging from kidnapping, murder and sexual assault to robbery and housebreaking. This is one of the findings in the State of Security Report, commissioned by the Automobile Association (AA), which was released earlier this his year. year

ave you ever experienced that moment of dread when you enter your house and realise that somebody has been there, rummaging through your stuff and looting your valuables? Or even worse, experienced the horror off being robbed at gunpoint? In a recent survey by the AA, more than 69 percent of the 1100 respondents indicated that they have been victims of a burglary and 58 percent of a robbery. More than 13 percent have been affected by a hijacking. It would be naive to think that South Africans’ constant exposure to crime doesn’t have a severe impact on their sense of safety and behaviour, often feeling too frightened to utilise our parks, reserves and hiking trails. Crime doesn’t only wreck the lives of South Africans but also cripples the tourism industry.

Worst place to live When it comes to safety, South Africa didn’t fare well in the InterNations’ 2019 Expat Insider Survey. This survey asked respondents what it is like to live and work in 64 countries around the world. A sample of 20 259 expats representing 182 nationalities answered a range of questions, including a sub-category on safety and security. The survey ranked South Africa the second worse place to live for safety and security and ranked it worst for personal safety. The co-CEO and founder of InterNations, Malte Zeeck, told Forbes that “63 percent of expats say they don’t feel safe and 22 percent even feel

extremely unsafe” in South Africa. wn In 2017, WorldAtlas ranked Cape Tow as the 15th most dangerous city in the world, based on a homicide rate of 62, 2 per 100 000. And an index released annually by the Institute for Economicss n and Peace ranked South Africa 127th in the world on the Global Peace Index, TimesLive reported in June last year.

How safe are we, and how safe do we feel? The AA’s recent survey sought to ve determine how many respondents hav been victims of crimes, what type of crimes were committed and the longterm impact of victimisation.

Most respondents – more than 76 percent - indicated that they have been a victim of crime, with the most common type of crime being robbery and theft. A range of psychological and behavioural changes were reported as a result of fear of victimisation, including avoiding certain places, anxiety and insomnia. The overall sense of safety was rated 4,9 out 10, illustrating a lack of perceived safety by respondents. Individuals reported that they felt safer and more secure within their own homes and neighbourhoods than anywhere else. The report also found that people felt less safe in outdoor public spaces, such as parks, than indoor public spaces, such as malls. When asked “how safe do you feel in outdoor spaces (like parks)”, 34 percent respondents replied “not at all” and 30 percent said “somewhat”. Only 1,8 percent said they feel “completely safe” while being outdoors. The report found that as a result of the >

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Special report: safety

perceived lack of security, many South Africans change their behaviour, avoid certain areas or situations or increasingly add security features to their homes. For example, 41 percent said they “avoid going to outdoor spaces alone” and more e than 70 percent avoid carrying valuabless, like cameras and cellphones, with them when they venture outside. Only 43,5 percent of people in South Africa feel “mostly safe” in their own homes.

The AA’s solution

The release of this survey’s results comes two months after the AA introduced its new mobile security app – the AA Armed Response. It's available as part of the AA’s Rescue Me suite of apps within the AA app or as a standalone app. It provides users with personal armed security at the push of a button. “We initially launched the service in December last year as an addition to our range of Rescue Me services. Based on the findings of the report, the launch of AA Armed Response is not only timely but critical given the staggering statistics of crime people are exposed to daily, especially in a worsening economy,” says Willem Groenewald, AA CEO. He says having a button available on a smartphone to activate immediate personal armed security is a powerful tool, which can be the difference between life and death. “The AA is a member-based organisation but on the back of these findings, we have decided to also make this service available to non-members. We felt this is important because our aim is to provide a valuable service to the public, while still retaining some core member benefits. Members will, however, be able to access AA Armed Response at a reduced rate to nonmembers,” says Willem. He adds that as a non-profit company, the AA has worked hard to ensure it provides affordable pricing to all South Africans. “Our first goal is to provide South Africans with a tool to make themselves safer, and to do so at a rate everyone can afford.” AA Armed Response is a locationbased security solution, which provides immediate co-ordinates of the user’s location to a call centre when activated.

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

More than 160 private p professional security companies throughout South Africa are contracted on the service, and the closest security provider to the user’s position is then dispatched to provide armed assistance. The services rendered through AA Armed Response are provided by professional security personnel, from independent, registered security companies. Willem says AA Armed Response has no limitations in terms of use. It can be activated by users who feel threatened or even if someone is at their own home, which has a separate armed security service. “This solution is intended to provide peace-of-mind to users or to family members who gift it to other family members. It is a service which can be activated anywhere, anytime. It is like having a private armed security officer in your pocket," he explains. The full State of Security Report, along with separate graphics, is available at aa.co.za.

HOW H OW DOES IT WORK? 1 DOWNLOAD THE APP Search for AA Armed Response in the Huawei App Gallery, on the iOS App Store or the Android Play Store. AA Armed Response is pre-loaded on all new Huawei smartphones.

2 ACTIVATE IT Follow the steps to register it.

3 USE IT When you perceive a threat (at home, on the road or outdoors), press the panic button on the app. The app will locate your position and send an armed responder to you. The AA contracted 160 partners countrywide to make sure that help is always within range, regardless of where you are in South Africa.

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?

From R35 per month for non-members of the AA to R25 per month for members. You can also subscribe to AA Armed Response on behalf of your loved ones and gift a subscription to show you care.

PERSONAL ARMED SECURITY AT THE TOUCH OF A BUTTON ARMED RESPONSE Download the App today. Search: AA app

BE SAFE. WHEREVER YOU ARE Access the AA Rescue Me product suite, including personal armed response and emergency roadside and medical assistance, anywhere in the country, 24 hours a day. R25 per month for AA members and R15 for each additional dependant (to a maximum of 3). You can also manage and access any of the 25 benefits of membership, all at the touch of a button.

ANYWHEREâ&#x20AC;¢ANYTIME Also available on the AppGallery

Namibia

The wide-open spaces, sublime natural scenery and quaint roadside stops make

THE LAND OF THE AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

Namibia

the south of Namibia the perfect road trip destination. WORDS & PHOTOS EVAN NAUDÉ

≥ DEADVLEI

hen you drive along the N7, something rather curious happens on the other side of Springbok. Civilisation seems to suddenly fall away and the landscape around you looks vast and empty. Sure, you’ll still find people and settlements, but they are mere specks in a vast wilderness that stretches beyond South Africa’s northwestern border and into one of the most sparsely populated countries on Earth. And it’s exactly this emptiness that makes our beautifully rugged neighbour,

Namibia, such a splendid road trip destination. My partner, Sam, and I leave Cape Town just as the first rays of sunlight flood around Devil’s Peak and onto the face of Table Mountain. Driving north on the N7, the crisp air turns hot and dry as we reach Springbok in the mid-afternoon and finally carries the salty smack of the ocean when we arrive in Port Nolloth. Over a seafood dinner, we calculate that we have already covered 700 km, yet our road trip would only really start the following day when we head for the Namibian border. > There are three border posts in the very

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Namibia

northwestern corner of South Africa and one of them, Sendelingsdrift, has a ferry that takes you across the Orange River. Sounding like the most adventurous, we naturally choose this option despite the bumpy gravel road you must take to get there. We are, after all, travelling in what every Namibian I know has told me is the best way: a proper 4x4 filled to the brim with camping gear. It’s not to say that you can’t explore this country in a VW Polo. In fact, Namibia has a superb road network, and even the gravel roads are in great condition. But if you, like us, are partial to a braai under the stars then there is no beating a secluded campsite somewhere off the beaten track.

SESRIEM CANYON

CANYON ROADHOUSE

GARUB PLAINS

AT LAST ON NAMIBIAN SOIL

After collecting the required passport stamps, we are ferried across the river and gently touch down on Namibian soil. Again, we collect passport stamps, and leaving the customs office behind, we feel like two excited dogs who jumped the fence as we are suddenly released into the wild rocky expanse of the AiAis/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. We follow a gravel road along the reed-covered northern banks of the Orange River and cross the confluence of the Fish River. A trickle of water runs down a wide, flat riverbed, and I can hardly believe this is the same river that carves the famous 160 km-long Fish River Canyon into the Namibian landscape. Before long we reach the turn-off for Ai-Ais Hotsprings Resort. As the name suggests, the resort has warm baths, as well as outdoor swimming pools, that draw scores of holidaymakers looking to escape the desert heat. It’s also the end point of the popular Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail, a five-day excursion that starts some 90 km further north in the canyon. Our mutual disdain for public baths, especially warm ones, make us immune to the allure of this oasis and instead propels us farther northward along the C37. We reach the Canyon Roadhouse, a quirky roadside stop decorated with motoring memorabilia, in the late afternoon. After setting up camp, we head for the bar, called the Pompstasie, to toast a very adventurous first day in Namibia.

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

LÜDERITZ

GOOD TO KNOW VISA AND ENTRY South Africans don’t need a visa to visit Namibia. At the border you’ll need your passport, driver’s licence, your vehicle’s original ownership documents or, if you don’t own the vehicle, a letter of permission from the bank or rental company. GETTING THERE The Vioolsdrift border post on the N7 is the quickest entry point if travelling from Cape Town. From Johannesburg you can enter at Nakop/Ariamsvlei on the N10. BEST TIME TO VISIT Namibia is a great destination year-round, but the cooler temperatures from May to September make for a more comfortable trip.

In the predawn dimness, the Fish River Canyon is deceptive. No matter how much you squint, you can't quite make sense of its size or shape. Then the rising sun performs its daily magic trick: a steady pull-back of the veil of darkness reveals the majestic landscape in front of you. It’s only when a golden hue pours down the ravines, cracks and crevasses that the canyon’s true depth and scale becomes apparent. We got up at 4 am to be at the canyon before sunrise. Sam brews a cup of coffee, while I run around with my camera in a failed attempt to capture some semblance of the panorama. Sam lures me back with a plastic container of her gran’s rusks, specially baked for our trip, and we enjoy a picturesque breakfast on the edge of the canyon. We aim to spend the night in the coastal town of Lüderitz, some 430 km

Namibia

from the Fish River Canyon, so we get moving again. The C12 gravel road leads us to the B4 tar road, where I swing the bakkie to the east. We cross the Fish River again and pull off at Alte Kalköfen Lodge to sample their apple strudel, but we end up spending more time than we should gawking at the incredible collection of pebble-like succulents, called lithops, in the Cole Lithoparium.

HORSING AROUND

Later we have lunch at a roadside picnic spot pleasantly devoid of rubbish bins overflowing with takeaway packets. In the small town of Aus we take pictures of the Catholic church, swing by the Bahnhof Hotel and buy snacks at the only store in town before tackling the last 120 km to Lüderitz. En route we stop at a watering hole

on the Garub Plains to have a look at the famous wild horses that roam the area. The horses have been here for a century, and their exact origin remains a mystery. Some stories say they escaped from a German castle, some reckon they belonged to Schutztruppe (German colonial troops) during WWI and another theory states that they survived a shipwreck. Whatever the case, their resilience in this harsh environment has proven them worthy citizens of Namibia. We are greeted by a steely southeaster when we arrive in Lüderitz, and it’s all that’s needed to convince us to swop the tent and a braai for an en suite and a buffet in town. “Tonight we have beef stew, smoked pork, lamb ribs and a seafood paella,” our waiter tells us at Barrels, a pub in Nachtigal Street. “Oh, and also some rice and veggies!” he adds almost as an afterthought. If there’s one thing I’ve learned about Namibian cuisine, it’s that being a vegan is considered a cardinal sin. A couple of pints of Tafel Lager nicely rounds off the meal.

AFTER THE DIAMOND RUSH

The next morning, we visit a famous ghost town outside of Lüderitz. Kolmannskuppe, or Kolmanskop, was >

SOLITAIRE

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Eva n suggests this seven-da y roa d trip throug

h the south of Na mibia to Windhoek

C20 C19

Stampriet

Sesriem

C14

DAY 6

Mariental

Sossusvlei

C19

Maltahöhe

C19

M27

DAY 5

C27

C15

Gochas

C18

C18 Gibeon

Duwisib Castle D826

C14

NAMIBIA

Betta

Namib Naukluft National Parl

Fis

B1 h

C27 Ti

DAY 4

Helmeringhausen

sb er g

D707

M24

Tses Berseba

M27 C14

C17

C13

Garub Plains

Bethanien

C16

Keetmanshoop

Aus

Goageb Seeheim

Low

M26 erg

C12 Fish

C13

/Ai /Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park

Gro

C12

Hobas

DAY 2

D324

Grünau

C11

C10

Ais-Ais

Rosh Pinah

Canyon Roadhouse

Fish R iver

Canyo

Sperrgebiet

ot-

asb

Lüderitz

Kar

DAY 3

C10

Sendelingsdrif

Karasburg

O ra n g e

C10

C13

Oranjemund Alexander Bay

Vioolsdrif/Noordoewer Ora n ge

R382 N7

Port Nolloth

Steinkopf

R382

Kleinzee

Springbok

DAY 1 to Cape Town

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SOUTH AFRICA N14

R355

Map: Francois Haasbroek

AT L A N T I C OCEAN

Aussenkehr

Namibia DAY 1 Sleep over in Springbok so you can get an early start the next morning for the border crossing at Vioolsdrift. From here it’s about 180 km to the Canyon Roadhouse in the Fish River Canyon. DAY 2 It’s worth getting up at sunrise to visit the viewpoint over the Fish River Canyon at Hobas. Afterwards, you’ll have enough time for breakfast at the Roadhouse before heading north to the B4 tar road, where you turn west towards Aus (280 km). DAY 3 Set today aside to visit the wild horses on the Garub Plains and then drive to Lüderitz, which is 120 km from Aus. Explore the German architecture of the town and visit Shark Island and Diaz Point before spending the night here. DAY 4 Visit the ghost town of Kolmanskop in the morning. Then head to one of the picturesque campsites on the D707, about 280 km from Lüderitz. DAY 5 Head to the farm stall Betta. From here it’s 20 km to the Duwisib Castle on the D826. Turn back to Betta after your visit and head north on the C27 to Sesriem, about 140 km. DAY 6 You’ll want to visit the famous Sossusvlei and Deadvlei in the morning, when it's cooler. The gates open at sunrise, and it’s a 60 km, one-hour drive to the dunes. Afterwards, go see the Sesriem Canyon and spend the night at the campsite or lodge in the area. DAY 7 The border at Vioolsdrift is 700 km from Sesriem, so if you’re heading home, an early start is best. Or you can break up the distance sleeping over along the way.

THE D707

KOLMANSKOP <

once the epitome of an affluent mining town. On a fateful day in 1908, railway worker Zacharias Lewala picked up a particularly shiny stone. He showed it to his boss, August Stauch, who recognised it as a diamond. The discovery was the catalyst for a diamond rush, and soon a thriving town sprung out of the desert complete with a bowling alley, ballroom, theatre, casino and the first tram in Africa. The diamonds dried up 40 years later, and the residents sought greener pastures. The desert did what it does best: it slowly but surely cover everything in sand. Today the derelict buildings filled with sand has made Kolmanskop a popular photographic destination. After restocking our food supplies in Lüderitz, we head back to Aus where we turn north over the Neisip Plains and take the D707 along the Tiras Mountains. The D707 is corrugated in places, but the scenery makes up for the bumpy ride. We spend the night at Ranch Koiimasis and once again wake up at the crack of dawn

the next day for the last leg of our trip. The C27 leads us north past the small farm stall at Betta, and we take a quick detour to the Duwisib Castle. This medieval homestead was built by Hans Heinrich von Wolf, a German Baron, in 1907. Today the castle is owned by Namibia Wildlife Resorts, and you can look at some of the 22 rooms inside or even stay the night. We turn back to the C27 and head for Sesriem. If you’ve ever browsed Namibian postcards, you’ll have seen the iconic images of the Sossusvlei dunes, but nothing can prepare you for the stunning scenery. Soon after you enter the Namib-Naukluft National Park, the world’s highest sand dunes rise up around you. As we walk between the eerie trees of Deadvlei and climb a colossal dune called Big Daddy, our home in Cape Town and the rest of the world feels far away. Tomorrow, we start the long trek home and I already know I’ll be back sooner than later. My soul needs it.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

The organisers: Douwe en Liezl Vlok.

Taking a breather: To relax in the shade of a poplar grove is one of the Heuningland hikeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unexpected highlights.

Slow and steady: The route varies from farm dirt roads to meandering cross-country tracks.

where the Talking points: Great conversation makes the road feel shorter.

A unique Karoo experience: You never tire of looking at the clear skies and pure white clouds.

KAROO SILENCE SINGS

Fellow hiker: Lientjie Zwiegers

Hiking

The four musketeers: The writer (second from left), with Jeanne Bestbier, Arina Botes and Lientjie Zwiegers.

Searching for the perfect combination of silence and companionship? Then lace up your trail shoes and hike the Heuningland route. BY MARENET JORDAAN

S Refreshing: Despite the drought, a few dams along the way help you cool off.

urely this must be the last bend in the road, I think to myself as the bright pink shirt of the hiker in front of me disappears around the corner. After a steep incline, I reach the bend, only to see the same bright pink shirt off in the distance, still walking and not reclining in a camp chair as I had hoped. Ahead I see the Oukloof Pass has another turn waiting for us. Now I know: the Karoo is anything but flat. But it’s exactly this – these unexpected discoveries – that makes the Heuningland hiking trail between Beaufort West and Fraserburg so alluring. You walk kilometres along a two-track trail with only Karoo shrubs for company, then suddenly the landscape changes, and you find yourself in a poplar grove. Or after a careful descent down a rocky riverbank, you’re in a dry riverbed where bright red succulents sprout. Hiking 103 km over four days is no joke. But I will do it again tomorrow.

HOW IT STARTED

Why did I decide to do this specific route? I’m still not sure. Maybe I read about it, or maybe I clicked on an interesting link. However, I recall the banner on the Heuningland website. It read: “We sell silence.” Heavenly bliss! And I can attest – silence follows you on this route. But to experience this blissfulness,

you need to put in the work. Be sure to properly read the first e-mail you receive from Liezl Vlok, who, with her husband Douwe, organises the Heuningland Karoo hike. Even if it’s classified as a nontechnical hike, exercise you must. At the end of each day, your gear and a delicious dinner awaits you, but if you want to enjoy some of Douwe’s pot bread, you need to reach the campsite in one piece. So, add a few (hundred) kilometres to your trail shoes before you attempt this route. Luckily, you’ll have some time to calm your nerves a bit. The afternoon before the first day of the hike, your group will meet at the remote Welgemoed camping site. It’s situated approximately 70 km on the other side of Beaufort West (on the Fraserburg road). Here you’ll meet Liezl and Douwe, who will inform you about the dos and don’ts for the next few days. You’ll quickly come to realise that the Vloks are the type of people who genuinely mean it when they invite you to visit them on their farm. You’ll never know what thoughts raced through the minds of the 20 or so hikers the night before you start. Yet, you’ll remember clearly how everyone set out at the crack of dawn, with their lunch – sandwiches, yoghurt and fruit – safely tucked away in their day backpacks. There’s no turning back now. Ahead of you lies the 27,5 km you need to hike > on day one into the Oukloof Pass.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Hiking

Geared to go: The four hiking companions’ backpacks, decorated with handmade owls which Jeanne brought for good luck.

Sometimes you walk on your own, but you’re never lonely. Your mind calms as you increasingly focus solely on the sound of your shoes hitting the gravel. There’s no cellphone signal. The only vehicle you'll see on the road is Liezl and Douwe, who drive by with a trailer on their way to set up camp for the evening. One day, as they drove past, Liezl handed out lollipops. Another day, it was chocolate. These treats will give you a much-needed boost after a few hours on the road. But you’re human, and somewhere between kilometre 10 and 20, you’re thankful for the company of another hiker. Heuningland was a type of solo pilgrimage for me. An early 40th birthday present to myself. However, I thank my lucky stars for the people I met along the way. Due to a serendipitous set of events, I became part of a group of four women, each with her own motivation for embarking on this hike. During the day, we would stop together to take off our shoes and have lunch. In the evenings, our four small tents formed a colourful laager. For dinner, we’d pull up our camping chairs next to other hikers around the fire. In the mornings, we would set out together. My closest hiking partner was Jeanne Bestbier, a music teacher from Somerset West. We walked while talking for long stretches. Other times we covered kilometres without saying a word. For most of the day our fellow hikers would be way ahead of us. Lientjie Zwiegers from Beaufort West and Arina Botes from Worcester, both nursing sisters, were clearly used to hiking far and fast. Jeanne and I didn’t even try to keep up with them. It wasn’t necessary. Here you walk at your own pace.

MEMORIES OF THE LONG ROAD

Despite having hiking companions and the valuable guidance of the Vloks, the road is long. You cover more than

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

Heuningland

101

Listen to Liezl and Douwe’s advice. They know what they’re talking about. Exercise! The distances you’ll have to cover are: • DAY 1 Oukloof 27,5 km • DAY 2 Tweefontein 26 km • DAY 3 Kareebos 22,5 km • DAY 4 Welgemoed 27 km Walk with trail running shoes, not hiking boots. One of the hikers in our group started off with boots and got blisters all over his feet. He completed the route, but it was painful. Don’t overpack. You need less than you think. Remember your first aid kit. Liezl provides specific guidelines. Stay hydrated. Even in the cooler weather, the Karoo sun can still be harsh. Make frequent stops. Take off your shoes and socks to allow your feet to dry. Take a tent that’s easy to set up. The last thing you want after a long day of walking is to struggle to set up camp.

20 km each day. The first day, when you’re hiking Oukloof Pass, you’ll start to doubt the wisdom of your life decisions. But it gets easier as the days go by, or maybe you just get more used to the routine of the road and the unavoidable aches and pains that sneak up on you. On day three, I was surprised when we only had 10 km left before we reached the camp. It felt as if a kilometre had become shorter. I think it's the quiet and fresh air that pumps new energy into your limbs. The immense plains, rocky hills and zinc dams that peek out behind thorn trees. At night, you’ll stare in wonder at the vast expanse of stars above. These memories will stay with you long after you’ve dusted the Karoo sand off your shoes. You’ll feel an indescribable sense of gratitude for an experience that money can’t buy.

GOOD TO KNOW • Each person is only allowed two medium-sized zipper PEP plastic bags to hold all their clothes and gear. • You hike with a day backpack with enough water, your own snacks and lunch. Lunch is provided, but you must pack it yourself in your own small dish with a lid. Dinner is also provided. • The Vloks will transport your luggage, including your tent and camp chair, to the overnight camps. There will be an outdoor toilet, and you “shower” with an ice-cream tub of warm water. • Hikes only take place in spring and autumn. The 2020 price is R3 950 pp (including meals), but it's unclear if any hikes will take place this year due to Covid-19. • For more info, visit heuningland.com.

Images: Marenet Jordaan and Jeanne Bestbier

GOOD CONVERSATION MAKES THE ROAD SHORTER

Hiking 2020

Plan your ﬁrst post-lockdown adventure!

y now, you’re craving to be out and about for more than just a couple of hours every day. You’re longing for the simple but soothing rhythm that only a long walk can deliver. That time will come again – a time to move freely, to plan and set off into the mountains, to see the smiles on your fellow (unmasked!) hikers. How thrilling that will be! This year’s hiking guide is filled with excellent suggestions and adventures that will jump-start your post-lockdown outings. New to hiking? Consider one of our hand-picked day hikes, or do a slackpacking trail somewhere awesome like the Cederberg, the Baviaanskloof or along the vast, empty beaches of the Eastern Cape. Looking for more of a challenge? How about hiking in the Naukluft Desert? Or cruising through the Kruger – on foot! We’ll show you weekend hideouts with great trails in the vicinity, we’ll take you down Suicide Gorge and up Kilimanjaro, and we’ll decode some of the wildest, unspoilt nooks and crannies of the Drakensberg. Enough with the Netflix and navel-gazing. Get your copy of go! Hiking 2020 and take the first step to new-found freedom!

go! Hiking 2020 is on shelf from 3 July. Order your copy online at winkel.weg.co.za EFT and credit card facilities are available. For enquiries e-mail verkope@media24.com or call 021 406 2387 Digital edition available from zinio.com and magzter.com

DER ! ORO N W

feather

BIRDS OF A 28

During the week advocate Rob Engela dons a suit, but come weekend, the Capetonian is almost unrecognisable when he swops his business attire for a floppy hat and binoculars as he attempts the almost impossible feat of spotting 900 different bird species in Southern Africa during his lifetime.

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

irding has taken Rob to farflung areas all over Southern Africa, but one of his favourite moments happened close to home when he managed to spot a pair of buff-spotted flufftails. The shy, mouse-sized birds had reportedly taken up residence in a dark gully next to a mountain stream in the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden. After obtaining directions to the gully from a fellow birder, Rob and his birding friend Rousseau LĂśtter set out looking for the diminutive flufftails. Rumour had it that the birds were nesting. Rob and Rousseau kept their distance and only spoke in the softest of whispers. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We sat

and waited until we almost lost all feeling in our bums. Then a shadow sped across the stream." They didn't get the chance to snap a photo, but they knew it was there, hiding in the undergrowth. Then Rob and Rousseau witnessed something truly remarkable. The birds proceeded with a rarely seen and neverbefore photographed mating ritual. It started with the male jumping on the female, facing her tail and twice plucking soft white feathers from her undertail area. He then plucked a normal tail-feather from the female, turned around, showed it to her and proceeded to mate with her, keeping her tail-feather in his beak. Afterwards, he fluffed his wings, slowly walking around

Birding

the female while continuing to hold her tail-feather in his beak. He stood over her for a moment, after which they proceeded into the undergrowth. “It was a truly intimate moment shared with a good friend that I will cherish it for the rest of my life,” Rob recalls.

SEEKING ADVENTURE

Rob is a late bloomer when it comes to birding. The 45-year-old only took up the hobby five years ago. “In the past, when driving through Addo, the Kruger or the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, I was often perplexed and frustrated when a car in front of me suddenly stopped, only for the occupants to peer out with their binoculars to study something small and drab next to the road. I would think: It’s just a bird…” But in time he realised how remarkable

birds are. “They’re often overlooked, notwithstanding that they are everywhere around us. It became truly fun when I took up the challenge of adding more and more species to my life list. “When I started, I never imagined how many adventures were still in store for me and how many extraordinary moments I would share with special friends,” he says. Since then, Rob and his birding bestie, Jacques Fourie, have gone on several epic adventures: “We’ve feasted on seafood in Beira, Mozambique, on our way to a site where we hoped to find an African pitta and sat awestruck in a small aircraft over the Okavango Delta while chasing a Ross’s turaco. We have taken dozens of road trips, sharing coffee from a weathered flask, all in search of that one special bird. We shared the ups and downs of getting our vehicle stuck in the >

View from the Zebra Mountains in Namibia

Chorister robin-chat

29 Half-collared kingfisher

Dusky sunbird

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Birding

sand and digging it out again, of sitting in a bird hide from before sunrise and of trudging through a muddy floodplain until long after sunset. We’ve cancelled appointments and left our respective offices on weekdays to drive out to a farm, dam or beach somewhere. We have scoured the Karoo shrubland, the mountains above Sir Lowry’s Pass and the Langebaan Lagoon. And we had the greatest of fun doing so.” Rob has been all over Southern Africa, from Ruacana in the northwest of Namibia to the sand forests of Mozambique. “I’ve been up the Sani Pass into Lesotho, travelled to Ndumo in the north of KZN, to the Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe and to many of the surprisingly picturesque small towns in South Africa such as Memel, Wakkerstroom and Clarens. Everywhere I went, I met some of the friendliest and most openhearted individuals who share my passion for birding. Through this hobby, I’ve met these wonderful people, created unforgettable memories and broadened my horizons.” In total, Rob has spotted 822 species in Southern Africa, but he says he’s still several years (if not decades) away from getting close to the magic number of 900 bird species. Only a dozen or so individuals have managed this amazing feat in our subregion, he adds.

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

When I started, I never imagined how many adventures were still in store for me and how many extraordinary moments I would share with special friends.

STARTING OUT

Looking back, Rob admits that getting into this hobby can be daunting. It’s easy to feel overwhelmed when you try to match the bird in front of you with the thousand or so in the field guide. “Birds are often difficult little creatures to spot. They don’t sit still and flutter away as soon as you get too close. And often experienced birders aren’t much help. A bird might fly by for a split second, only for the birder to confidently declare that it is this or that species, whereas all you saw was a brown blob, if you saw anything at all. It’s easy to become despondent or to lose interest,” he says. But don’t let that put you off. There’s hardly a more accessible hobby around, he adds. “Birds are everywhere - in our garden, on a fencepost next to the road or out at sea beyond the waves. Scouring the beach for seabirds

Scouting the fig forests in the Ndumo Game Reserve

Images: Rob Engela

Little bee-eater

Birding

You encounter birds on the ground, in trees, rivers, ponds or soaring overhead. You can watch them anywhere, for free, without the need for specialised equipment (although binoculars or a small zoom camera helps) and without any physical exertion at all.” And more and more people seem to be getting into it. A few years ago, a study by the Department of Trade and Industry found that birding is one of the fastest growing activities in nature tourism. “It teaches more and more people, young and old, to truly see their surroundings,” Rob says. “The challenge isn’t just to encounter birds. The challenge is to truly see them.”

LEARN THE LINGO

The terms birding, listing and twitching denote distinctly different concepts.

Birding describes the activity of observing birds. Listing, as the name would suggest, refers to making a list of spotted birds. Not all birders are listers. Many simply enjoy watching and identifying birds without the need to keep a list. Twitching is more extreme. At a moment’s notice, a twitcher will drop everything and travel far and wide to see or photograph an extremely rare bird (also known as a mega or a giga) or a vagrant (a bird that has strayed from its normal ecological range). Many birders never go on a twitch. Twitching comes with its own ups and downs. On the one hand there is the exhilarating chase and high you get from adding a special lifer (a new species) to your list. But then there's also the disappointment that comes from dipping on (missing) your target after all that effort.

1. Get a simple field guide or birding app I recommend Sasol, Roberts and Newman’s Birds of Southern Africa. Both Sasol and Roberts also have topnotch apps. If you want to involve your kids, look out for the excellent Faansie’s Bird Book by Faansie Peacock. I was inspired by the birding movie The Big Year with Jack Black, Steve Martin, Owen Wilson and Rosamund Pike. I started with a list. Number one was the first bird I could identify. Start with a sparrow, crow or a dove, for example. These are three types of birds that even my four-year-old can recognise. Then look a little bit closer and go to your field guide or app. You will notice that there are two common types of sparrow, namely a Cape sparrow and a house sparrow (there are others as well, but that will come later). Likewise, there are three common types of crows, namely a Cape crow, a pied crow, and a white-necked raven. In cities, rock doves or feral pigeons are everywhere. Other common doves that will surely visit your garden are the Cape turtle dove, the red-eyed dove and the laughing dove. Add them to your list. Soon you’ll find that your list is growing, and as it grows, the more fun you’ll have. Try to reach 50, then 100 and then 200. Top tip: start now in your garden or street. Don’t wait until a trip to the Kruger. It will be infinitely more difficult then.

3. Join a Facebook group or mailing list There are fantastic Facebook groups, amongst others Birdlife South Africa, SA Rare Birds or Eastern Cape Birding. Joining is easy and you don’t have to make any

4. Travel Drive to your nearest nature reserve and start looking around. Look at the big birds in the pond or dam. Try to identify them and add them to your list. Look at the smaller ones in the bushes and shrubs. Go to one of the many recognised birding spots in your area (this usually includes the local sewerage works). Watch for birds, look, observe and try to see. Then venture out further. All the birds mentioned in your field guide or app have been spotted in our subregion, including the whole of South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Lesotho, eSwatini and the southern portion of Mozambique. When travelling anywhere within these countries, keep looking and adding to your list.

5. Hire a guide Birding guides are wonderful people. When going on holiday or a business trip, google local guides and book one for a day. Within a few hours of chatting to a guide and accompanying him or her out in the field, you will start observing so much more.

Rufous-eared warbler

101

2. Start with a simple list

contributions. Learn from the birders who regularly post in these forums. Pop an e-mail to Trevor Hardaker at hardaker@mweb.co.za and ask to join his SA Rare Bird News Report. Every Monday and Thursday, he sends out an e-mail reporting on rare bird sightings. You will learn a lot, simply by following the struggles and delights of the hundreds of other birders out there.

BIRDING

WANT TO JOIN THE BIRDING COMMUNITY? ROB SHARES HIS TIPS FOR BEGINNERS:

Rob describes himself as a lister and twitcher. “Listing and twitching is exactly what makes birding such an engaging hobby, in my opinion. The hunt for a new species is a literal hunt,” he explains. “You need to plan, travel, walk or drive, sometimes for the whole day, stalk and finally find the bird. “The beauty is that you leave the bird exactly as you found it, without disturbing it or causing it any distress. There is little else so rewarding as the first sighting of a species that you have dreamt of for a long time or a bogey bird that has constantly eluded you, sharing the sighting with a close friend or companion and celebrating it afterwards. If it happens under the shade of a baobab tree, in a rolling grassland at sunset or a remote riverbank filled with crocodiles, so much the better.”

People from all over the globe flock to the Cradle of Humankind to see for themselves where our roots lie. This wonderful site has much to offer to young and old alike.

WELCOME

HOME!

ometimes a prophet isn’t honoured in his own country. I was reminded of this saying as I enjoyed a cooldrink while relaxing in a shady spot of the Maropeng visitor centre’s plaza. I love travelling, and I’ve toured overseas several times, but this was my first visit to Maropeng, and I was pleasantly surprised by the visitor centre’s exhibit. It’s world class. From when you arrive at the ticket office, where staff warmly greet you with the words, “Welcome home”, to when you exit the Tumulus building at the far end, it’s an awe-inspiring experience that will delight adults and children alike. Maropeng left an impact on me even before I bought my ticket. The night before, I stayed at a boutique hotel on the premises and was impressed by its luxurious amenities (see box). The Cradle of Humankind is one of the most important anthropological sites in the world, and it was named an

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999. The whole site covers 47 000 hectares and includes a series of limestone caves where the largest percentage of the world’s hominid fossils have been found. It was initially though that humankind originated in Asia or Europe. That was until the 1924-discovery of the fossils of a child in the Taung area. The thought that the Taung Child was a human ancestor wasn’t welcomed by all, but the unearthing of skeletal remains of Australopithecus africanus at Sterkfontein in 1947 confirmed that our roots are in Gauteng. This is why the friendly Maropeng staff greet you with “Welcome home”. You can work your way through the Maropeng visitors centre (north of Krugersdorp and about 50 km from Johannesburg) and the Sterkfontein Caves (about 11 km from Maropeng) in one day with a combination ticket, and I would strongly recommend you do this.

Explore SA

33 An impressive fountain, which is surrounded by exhibits, stands in the lobby. Stairs take you to the top floor restaurant, which has stunning views. An information board at the entrance links Maropeng and the Sterkfontein Caves with other noteworthy hominid sites across the world: the Sangiran site in Java, Indonesia; the Zhoukoudian site in China; the Lower Valley of the Awash and the Omo in Ethiopia and the Olduvia Gorge and Laetoli in Tanzania. Take the stairs to the lower floor. Here young and old are regaled on an exciting boat ride through the dimly lit “stomach” of the building, which then spits you out in a giant open planned room where another stunning exhibit awaits. This display covers more than

The exhibit starts before you even step inside the vistor centre.

just our origins. It also touches on other aspects as well, like the devastating impact humans have had on the environment. It’s quite moving when you “call” a dodo, and he explains to you in his gravelly voice why he’s extinct. Another part of the exhibit focuses on the nine characteristics that distinguishes humans from animals: our ability to walk upright (bipedalism); our jaw and diet; our intricate brains; our ability to craft tools; the ability to make and control fire; our ability to communicate in complex languages; our preference to live with others; our history on earth and our unique ability to think creatively. I was surprised to learn that our omnivore diets > and willingness to eat meat enabled us to live in

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

It's a mouthful!

Call the dodo (in front)

habitats outside of Africa. And our ability to speak isn’t just down to our intellect but also our anatomy. Primates, for example, can be taught the meaning of symbols, but their ability to produce sounds is limited by the shape and build of their throats.

NICE TO MEET YOU

The star of Maropeng is without doubt “Mrs Ples” – the fossil of the Australopithecus africanus on display on the lower level. Mrs Ples was discovered in 1947 in die Sterkfontein Caves. The scientists Dr Robert Bloom and Professor John T. Robinson are credited with this find. I’m always wary of saying that this or that scientist “discovered” a fossil. Scientists usually work in teams, and they’re not always the ones who dig up the fossils. The Taung child was sent to Dr Raymond Dart, an Australian who was doing research at the University of Witwatersrand, in a crate. He named the fossil but didn’t get

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GOOD TO KNOW MAROPENG R120 for adults (learner, student and pensioners discounts available) STERKFONTEIN CAVES R165 for adults (learner, student and pensioners discounts available) COMBINATION TICKET FOR MAROPENG & STERKFONTEIN R190 You can book a private tour at 014-577-9000 or info@maropeng.co.za.

his hands dirty doing the excavation work himself. On the site where Mrs Ples was found, George Barlow, the site manager, took the fossils to Robert Broom, who named it. According to one of the information boards, Dr Bloom was quite an eccentric fellow. He wore a suit and tie while digging at the excavation sites. When the heat became unbearable, he would strip down to his birthday suit and continue working. According to legend, in 1951, when Dr Bloom was 85, he scribbled down a few sentences about his research on the hominid fossils found at Swartkrans (another Cradle of Humankind site) and whispered: “Now it’s done.” He died a few hours later. The exhibit ends at the farthest point of the Tumulus building, where you’ll find yourself outside again. The site has several walking routes and a nice restaurant, so there’s no need to rush to Sterkfontein.

Images: Gerda Engelbrecht, The Sterkfotein Tour: Getty/Gallo Images

Kids can do excavations in the kiddies cave.

Explore SA

MAKE A NIGHT OF IT The Sterfontein Caves tour

CAVE DWELLERS

Up until 2010, fossils dug up at Sterkfontein accounted for about a third of all hominid fossils found worldwide. More than 1 500 Homo naledi fossils were found in the Dinaledi Chamber. To date, it’s the single largest discovery of a hominid species in Africa. The site is 11 km from Maropeng along a clearly marked route. The GPS on my phone made it even easier to find. Before I could buy a ticket, I was first asked if I’m reasonably fit, and if I’m able to squat. But this shouldn't deter you. The section of the cave that’s open to visitors is well-fitted with steps, rubber mats and railings. The whole tour lasts about an hour, but it includes a few stops along the way as the guide gives explanations, so you won't walk for the full hour. My group included a number of pensioners, and they coped just fine. The narrowest space you need to wiggle through is about one meter high. Your guide will show you where the fossils, which are safely locked behind a gate, were found. Our guide was well-informed and the tour gripping. Sterkfontein also has a restaurant with a lovely view.

I stayed at the Maropeng Boutique Hotel. It’s situated on the same site as the Maropeng visitor centre, so you can leave your car at the hotel and walk along a footpath to reach the visitor centre, which is about one kilometre away. Hotel guests get a 15 percent discount on their Maropeng and Sterkfontein admission tickets. And there’s the added benefit of getting to the site early. I was at the Tumulus building when they opened their doors and had most of the exhibition to myself. It’s a four-star hotel and has 24 well-equipped rooms (maximum of 48 guest per night). The rooms look out over the magnificent Magaliesberg and Witwatersrand mountain ranges. The swimming pool is lovely, and the restaurant serves African dishes with a modern twist. It’s the perfect place to escape the city, watch the stars and unwind. The rooms are air-conditioned, and internet is included in the price. Prices vary depending on the season and day of the week. My single room cost R932 (breakfast included). I can recommend the hotel’s restaurant – I had dinner in the evening and enjoyed cocktails on their deck. To make a booking, call 014-577-9100 or send an e-mail to hotelreception@maropeng.co.za.

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Peaceful & unexpected silence The next time you have an early morning flight from Lanseria, spend the night at the Cradle Nature Reserve. Situated on the T3, it’s just 10 km from the airport. But check in early because there’s a lot to do. 36

itting on your veranda in the dark, enjoying an early morning cup of coffee, it’s hard to believe that the airport from which you need to catch your flight is only a stone’s throw away. Form here you don’t see city lights; only the bright stars twinkling above the distant hills. The Cradle Nature Reserve covers almost 2000 hectares and is in the heart of the Cradle of Humankind. It’s home to various animal species, including leopards, hyenas, giraffe, eland, blesbok, blue wildebeest, kudu and waterbuck, as well as more than 200 bird species. I checked in late in the afternoon and took a quick, refreshing dip in their beautiful pool. Early evening, I went to The Cradle Restaurant. It has enough space to accommodate 200 diners and boasts with an awesome view of the private reserve. A waiter

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pushed a drinks trolley with a wide selection of gins to my table, and after I made my choice, I sat peacefully and read my Konsalik novel as the sun set in the distance. The silence here is heavenly, and the fact that Johannesburg and Pretoria are only half an hour away seems impossible. The Cradle Boutique Hotel has 16 “hip-eco” timber and thatch units. These can house between two and four people, and each has its own private viewing deck with chairs and a table, air-conditioning, a flatscreen TV, minibar and WiFi (although the signal is stronger in the restaurant than in the units). Before sunset, the hotel staff bring refreshments to your room. The reserve can accommodate up to 140 people – there are also luxury tents about 1,5 km from the hotel – and is often used as a conference or wedding venue.

Stay over

GO ON A FOSSIL TOUR

Images: Gerda Engelbrecht

I regret checking in so late because the Cradle Nature Reserve has so much more on offer than just a quick stay on your way to the airport. You can go on game drives or walks and a fossil tour. The reserve has access to organised tours to the Gladysvale and Malapa fossil sites on the neighbouring John Nash Reserve. This tour runs the whole week, is officiated by a palaeontologist and lasts about four hours. A maximum of nine people can be accommodated on this tour. If you must choose between a game drive or the fossil tour, pick the latter. You can go for game drives on other reserves. The fossil tour is unique.

GOOD TO KNOW

Fossil tours: R1 985 per person for groups of two and R1 500 per person for groups of three or more. Children pay R750. Game drives: Between R350 and R450 per person, depending on the amount of people on the drive. Game drives last about two hours. Game walks: Between R300 and R350, depending on the amount of people on the walk. It lasts about two hours.

COST I stayed over on a weekday and my accommodation was R1 500 (excluding meals). GETTING THERE You can reach the reserve in a normal car. REMEMBER The parking lot is some way off from reception. A golf car will take you and your luggage to reception and then to your room. Factor this into your travel time if you need to catch a flight the next morning. It takes about 15 minutes to get to Lanseria from the reserveâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gate.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

It isn’t your typical winter destination, but if you’re searching for a spectacular getaway, then it’s worth traveling 200 km north of Cape Town to experience this stunning region during the cold, wet months. BY GERDA ENGELBRECHT

The Cederberg is

WONDERFUL AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

Focus on reserves

IN WINTER

Focus on reserves

he Cederberg is already well-known to hikers. It’s home to various walking trails, from the hardcore routes around the Wolfberg Cracks and Arch where you sleep in tents out in the open to some of the best day hikes in the country (see box below). Campers are also well acquainted with the area. The Algeria campsite has 48 spots for tents or caravans and most of these are shaded by trees and arranged around a crystal-clear, natural pool. And it’s just one of at least 14 campsites in the area. But have you ever experienced the Cederberg during winter? Once you do, you’ll be hooked, and you’ll zip up your down jacket at least once a year to return.

Comfy accommodation Algeria spruced up their self-catering cottages in 2015. They're an excellent base from which to explore the surrounding area, or you can simply choose to unwind and relax in front the fireplace. All the cottages look out over the valley and mountains, and if you visit during a thunderstorm, you’ll have a front row seat to one of nature’s most magnificent firework shows. If it’s not raining, drive out to the Stadsaal Caves and Truitjieskraal in the Matjiesrivier Nature Reserve. For this outing, you’ll need a permit. You can buy one at Algeria’s reception office. The roads you need to take are untarred but in good condition. On the way, stop at Uitkyk Pass (here you’ll also find a few self-catering cottages) and at Lot’s Wife, which is close to Dwarsrivier farm, to snap a few photos. Lot’s Wife is right next to the road, so it’s a quick and easy

WALKS FOR SUNNY WINTER DAYS

1 DISA POOL Walk to the Disa waterfall. Between December and February, you could spot this rare Cape orchid along the way. Duration: 3 to 4 hours, there and back Difficulty level: 1

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

MALTESE CROSS (VIA SUIKERBERG)

TRUITJIESKRAAL (VIA KROMRIVIER)

This beautiful route leads to a very famous rock formation. You’ll be surrounded by nature’s splendour with every step you take.

This trail takes you through magnificent rock formations.

Duration: 7 to 8 hours, there and back Difficulty level: 1

Duration: 3 hours, there and back Difficulty level: 1

4 KROMRIVIER CAVE Duration: 2 hours, there and back Difficulty level: 1

walk no matter your fitness level. You’ll reach a fork in the road with a sign indicating that Kromrivier is to the right and Ceres is to the left. Keep right in the direction of Truitjieskraal. Initially, the road looks innocent enough, but after a sharp turn, you’ll find yourself on a very narrow road that takes you over the Kromrivier Pass. In wet weather the meandering road appears treacherously slippery as it snakes down into the valley below. But be patient and take it slow. When you reach the bottom, you’ll find Kromrivier’s reception office, a small shop and restaurant. Here you can enjoy a steaming cup of hot chocolate to help ward off the cold. The shop stocks Slingsby maps, which can come in handy. From here, head towards Truitjieskraal. The rock formations at Truitjieskraal are a must-see attraction. There is a parking lot close by. At the gate, you’ll need to punch in a code (you’ll get this when you pay for the permit). Truitjieskraal’s magnificent sandstone formations are arranged around a type of amphitheatre that surrounds you on all sides. Being there is a spellbinding experience. After a short walk

LEFT ABOVE: Lot's Wife. LEFT: Bushman paintings. ABOVE: The Stadsaal Caves.

down the trail, you’ll come across Bushmen rock art. During winter you’re almost guaranteed to have the place all to yourself. A visit is absolutely worth the effort to get there. The site has toilets (albeit a long-drop) and toilet paper.

SAVING THE BEST FOR LAST As you drive back over the Kromrivier Pass and turn down the fork in the direction of Ceres, you’ll reach the parking area for the Stadsaal Caves. You’ll need a code for this gate as well. On your way to the caves, first stop to admire the stunning San rock art depicting rows of elephants and people. An information board explains the symbolism of the artwork and the medicinal value of dassie urine. The Stadsaal Caves are a little way off. It will undoubtably be the highlight of your trip. You may have seen photos of these formations before, but they don’t do them justice. Experiencing the caves in real life will take your breath away. The toilet facilities are also neat and tidy. Weather permitting, you can go on one of the hiking trails that start here.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Focus on reserves

Drive and stay in the Cederberg ALGERIA: The cost of CapeNature’s self-catering cottages starts at R800. Each cottage has two bedrooms, one with a double bed and a sleeper couch for a child; the other with two single beds. There is an extra sleeper couch in the living area. A maximum of four adults and two children under the age of 12 are allowed per cottage. These cottages are exceptionally well furnished with a fridge, stove, microwave oven and even a braai grid. Bedding and towels are provided, so you don’t need to bring your own. There is also an inside fireplace and outside braai. Make sure to pack food and don’t forget the firelighters. You can only buy firewood at Algeria.

CapeNature, Kliphuis is situated at the top of the Pakhuis Pass and is another stunning venue. Each of the three cottages have three bedrooms, can fit up to eight people and are fully furnished. Two loop hiking trails start here, of which the longest is 13 km. Be d waterproof t f hiki t sure to pack a warm winter jacket and hiking b boots. Make reservations via capenature.com. CapeNature tends to be very generous with discounts during quieter months. Look out for these deals after we're allowed to travel again. All CapeNature's reserves offer pensioners over the age of 60 discounts year-round (except for Easter weekend and the December school holidays). To qualify, you need to make a telephonic booking (087-087-8250). Have your ID close by when you call.

CEDERBERG PARK AT KROMRIVIER: Cottages cost from R750 per night for two people. Book via cederbergpark.com.

PERMITS: For Truitjieskraal and the Stadsaal Caves, as well as the day hiking trails, you’ll need permits. Entry is free if you have a Wild Card.

GETTING AROUND: You don’t need a 4x4 to explore the area, but you’ll be glad to have a car with high ground clearance if it's raining. The last 16 km to Algeria is a well-maintained dirt road.

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Images: Getty/Gallo Images, Gerda Engelbrecht and Evan Naudé

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Yearning to escape their mundane jobs, Vic Ives and Steph Perrin saved every penny they had to embark on an extended tour through Africa. AA Traveller caught up with Vic after Covid-19 cut their planned adventure short. >

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

Epic journey

BOTSWANA

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Epic journey

LAKE MALAWI

hen Vic, a tour guide who grew up in Kuilsrivier just outside of Cape Town, and Steph, from Ballarat just northwest of Melbourne, Australia, met while on safari in Botswana in 2014, both knew that travelling would play a crucial part in their relationship. “We’re both passionate about travelling and share a deep love for Africa,” Vic says. “It was a given when we got together that we wanted travel, specifically travel in Africa, to be part of our lives.” Initially, the couple lived in New Zealand but after a while

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

relocated to Australia to pursue new career opportunities. But neither Vic nor Steph was particularly fond of their jobs, and they longed to escape the humdrum of their normal lives. So, they started saving for an epic Africa journey and decided to take the leap. Since August last year, the couple have been on the trip of a lifetime in their 1999 Land Cruiser 105 (kitted out with an Alu-Cab rooftop tent and all the supplies they could need). “Home for us is literally where the car ends up. Everything we own is in this car.” Bought on a whim in New Zealand, the Cruiser had about 360 000 km on the clock

and has caused its fair share of troubles. The couple had to replace the fuel pump in the sub tank in Namibia. “In Malawi, the passenger electric window stopped working, and then we had an electrical fault swell, which took two days to fix. We tried a local mechanic first. That was an experience! We broke down in the middle of nowhere in Malawi, but within minutes a crowd of locals came out of nowhere. Towards the end of our journey through Mozambique, we started to have fuel issues, which resulted in us heading back to South Africa earlier than planned. We had the car fixed in > Nelspruit – R10 000 later!”

Epic journey

ZAMBIA

It’s such a stunning park. The landscape is so beautiful. We were here for the ‘emerald season’ when everything is lush and green. We saw so much game: lions, buffalos, leopards, elephants and many others. WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

PLAN A

The couple’s journey had a slow start. In August 2019, they travelled to Bredasdorp, where they had stored the Cruiser with Vic’s parents. “We had a few pieces of kit that were booked to be fitted in the first week of our arrival, including the new rooftop tent. After setting up the car and loading all our equipment, we only ended up leaving Bredasdorp on 2 September 2019.” They spent their first month in Botswana and travelled through Maun, Nata and Kasane (situated next to Chobe National Park). Namibia was their next stop. They journeyed through the Caprivi Strip to visit the Bwabwata and Etosha national parks and the Sossusvlei

ZAMBIA

salt pan in the Namib Naukluft National Park. From around October to December, the couple drove the Land Cruiser through Zambia from east to west, visiting the Kafue and South Luangwa national parks. During this time, they also volunteered at the Croc Valley Camp, which borders on the South Luangwa National Park. “It’s such a stunning park. The landscape is so beautiful. We were here for the ‘emerald season’ when everything is lush and green. We saw so much game: lions, buffalos, leopards, elephants and many others.” They also befriended many locals. “They’re the friendliest, warmest, most generous people we’ve come across. We

became close friends with a local artist who makes art out of scrap metal,” says Vic. After their time at Croc Valley, they explored Kasungu National Park, Lake Malawi National Park, Liwonde National Park

shorts from a local tailor. The couple then travelled back to South Africa and spent 30 days in the Kruger National Park, taking advantage of the reserve's long stay discount. “Steph

Steph had never been to the Kruger, and we loved the northern section of the park, especially the bush camps. It was quiet, and we had great sightings. and Majete National Park. From the end of January to February, they travelled along the Mozambican coast, from Tete to Inhassoro, Vilunculos, Massinga, Inhambane, Tofo and Zavala, where Vic bought some colourful

had never been to the Kruger and we loved the northern section of the park, especially the bush camps. It was quiet, and we had great sightings of leopards and a beautiful encounter with a whole pride of lions,” Vic recalls.

Epic journey

ZAMBIA

BOTSWANA

ZAMBIA

BOTSWANA

From there, they headed back to Botswana and Namibia, where they stayed at the Tuli Game Reserve, Central Kalahari National Park, Chobe National Park and Bwabwata National Park. Plan A was to ultimately travel back to Zambia and begin their new careers as lodge managers, but then Covid-19 happened.

PLAN B

Experiencing Africa as tourists wasn’t Vic and Steph’s only reason for this trip. They had hoped to get lodge management experience along the way to see whether they like it and, if so, hopefully end up employed in the industry. After their time at Croc Valley, they were asked to

manage one of the top bush lodges in South Luangwa National Park from May, but they lost the opportunity (for this year at least) due to the spread of Covid-19. “It was a very bitter pill to swallow, but we have to adapt and make new plans.” Initially, Vic and Steph were hunkered down in northern Botswana as they were unsure about whether they would be allowed to travel further. “The Covid-19 virus came along and with lockdowns in place in Botswana and South Africa, we couldn't really move anywhere. South Africa wouldn't let Steph in because Australia is on the list of high-risk countries,” Vic explains. “One of the camps close to the Chobe National

Park opened their doors to us to wait out the lockdown. It's situated on the flood plains of the Chobe river. Not a bad place to be stuck for a month, I suppose, but it was strange and sometimes lonely to be the only people in the camp.” As AA Traveller went to print, Vic and Steph had just managed to make it back to Australia on a Qantas repatriation flight. "The virus really threw our plans out. However, we cannot wait to return to Africa," he says. “We are hoping that our jobs at the lodge in Zambia will be back on in 2021. It requires us to work eight months a year, which gives us four months to travel some more.” We will keep our fingers crossed.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

epic journey

KRUGER

BOTSWANA

50 LETABA MOZAMBIQUE

THE CRUISER

ZAMBIA

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

THEIR GEAR

Epic journey

Great gear: what they took on their their extended trip THE CRUISER

CAMPING EQUIPMENT

• The Toyota came with a snorkel, winch and dual

• A fire pit. We have one from the Australian brand Red

battery system, bull bar, bumpers and spare wheel carrier. • The car has two fuel tanks, which gives them a total capacity of 220 litres of petrol, but the fuel doesn’t last long - the Cruiser is quite thirsty. • A roof rack and a drawer system keep things organised. “We basically have the whole kitchen organised in the drawers at the back. We also have a 90-litre water tank built into the drawer system.” • A 90-litre fridge with freezing and fridge compartments. “It’s such a luxury to have an icecold beer after a long day on the road.” • An Alu-Cab Gen 3 rooftop tent. “We love this thing! We had an older style rooftop tent at first but decided to go for this one. It’s so quick and easy to set up and take down. It literally takes a few seconds. Taking down the older style tent at 5 am on a winter’s morning in the middle of the Kalahari Desert when you want to go on a game drive was the worse. The mattress was a bit firm, so we added an eggshell mattress topper for extra comfort. Now we sleep like kings!” • Alu-Cab awning. It’s a 270-degree awning that provides shade from the sun and shelter from the rain next to and behind the car. “We use it a lot. It’s one of the things we couldn’t live without.”

Images: Vic Ives and Steph Perrin

If you want to stay up to date on how they're doing, follow Vic and Steph on Instagram at nomads_weare.

Roads. It’s compact and versatile. We love it.

• A solar blanket. From another Australian brand, called

HardKorr Solar, it's portable. When we park the car in the shade, we can put it out in the sun. • Gas stove and bottle • Jet boil • Braai grid • Aluminium pots and bread tin • Two stainless steel tables that fit into our roof rack and drawer system • Recovery gear (high lift jack, snatch straps, spade etc.) • Air compressor • Collapsible washing basins and drying rack • Camp chairs • Camera equipment (two Nikon bodies, range of lenses, gimbal, drone and GoPro)

FOOD AND UTENSILS • We try and always have a range of meat and fresh food in the fridge and freezer.

• We stock up on tinned foods and boxed salads for

when we run out of fresh food. We store the tins as well as pastas and sauces in ammo boxes. • We store a basic set of kitchen utensils in the drawer system. Pots, pans and other cooking equipment are also kept in the drawer system.

BOTSWANA

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

D EMOO CR AT I C R EP UBL I C OF TH E C O NGO

Epic journey

Lua

Mansa

Lubumbashi

Kasungu National Park

Kitwe Ndola

Kabwe

Mongu

Cuvelai

LILONGWE

Kafue K a fu e National Park

Kaoma

Lichinga

Chipata

Menongue

Majete National Park

South Luangwa National Park

Lake Malawi National Park

Z A M BI A

Liwonde National Park

Za m be zi

LUSAKA

Zomba

Ca h o ra B a ss a D a m

Mazabuka

Blantyre

Tete

Bwabwata National Park

Ondangwa

Etosha National Park

Kalomo

Katima Mulilo

Rundu

Chobe National Park

ZIMBABWE

Hwange National Park

B OT S WA NA

Grootfontein

HARARE

Victoria Falls

Kasane

Tsumeb

Ka ri b a D am

S h ire

Choma Namacunde

Songea

Mzuzu

MAL AWI

ANG O L A

bal

La ke M a l a w i

Chinsali

Likasi

Kolwezi

K E N YA

Kasama

Maun

Chimoio

Mutare

Gweru Beira

Bulawayo

Nata

Otjiwarongo

N AMIBIA

Francistown

Ghanzi

Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Gobabis

WINDHOEK

Northern Tuli Game Reserve

Inhassoro Vilankulos

M O Z A MBI Q UE

Serowe

Thohoyandou

Parque Nacional de Limpopo

Rehoboth

Kruger National Park

Polokwane Mokopane Mariental

Sossusvlei

LÃ¼deritz

Zavala

Skukuza

PRETORIA Johannesburg

Mahikeng Keetmanshoop

Aus

Inhambane

GABARONE

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Namib Naukluft National Parl

Massinga

Nelspruit

MBABANE

MAPUTO

E S W AT I N I

Welkom Upington Kimberley

Springbok

LE S OT HOO

SOO U T H A F R I C A A t l antt i c Ocean

Richards Bay

BLOEMFONTEIN MASERU

Karoo National Park

Mthatha

Beaufort West

East London

CAPE TOWN Bredasdorp

Oudtshoorn George Mossel Bay

Pietermaritzburg

Durban

The trip!

In d i a n O cean

Port Elizabeth 200 km

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

Map: Francois Haasbroek

Orange

Camera gear IF YOU'RE SERIOUS ABOUT NATURE PICS Since Canon expanded its range of mirrorless cameras in 2018 with the EOS R, its first mirrorless full frame camera, it added an entry-level version, the RP, to its selection. Later this year, the brand will add another member to the family, the EOS R5, and it’s clear that this model is aimed at serious photographers. We haven’t had the opportunity to test the R5 ourselves, but if our experience with the EOS R and RP (both impressed us with their ability to shoot stunning images in weak light) is anything to go by, we expect the EOS R5 to be revolutionary. Here are a few characteristics of the R5 that caught our eye: • It takes a major leap forward when it comes to video. It’s the first full frame camera that can shoot video in 8K. And even in 8K, it supports Canon’s famous Dual Pixel CMOS AF system, which allows for razor sharp and lighting fast autofocus. • It’s the perfect choice for wildlife and bird photographers.

The camera has a cutting-edge autofocus system that not only relies on the animal’s eyes, but also its face and body. • With the electronic shutter, it can snap up to 20 photos per second and up to 12 with the manual shutter. • The camera has built-in image stabilisation technology. • Just like the EOS R and RP, the R5 will also use the RF lens range. However, a lens adaptor allows you to use Canon DSLR lenses as well. The camera manufacturer is launching nine lenses in the RF range this year, including the RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1 L om lens for IS USM, the first zoo eating the the EOS R range, cre n for nature perfect combination photography. n’t available THE PRICE This wasn at time of going to print, but you more than can expect it to cost m the EOS R, which has a price tag e price of of about R40 000. The ens was also the RF 100-500mm le unavailable.

cameras

COOL

Here are two new products that we can't wait to buy.

Images supplied

IF YOU'RE AN ACTION JUNKIE For years, GoPro was the name to beat when it came to action cameras, but another brand has recently popped up on our radar: DJI. DJI has already made a name for itself with its excellent gimbals (an object on which you mount your camera or cellphone to help stabilise it while you shoot), but now it

has thrown it’s hat into the action camera ring as well. You want your action camera to be portable and easy to handle, and the DJI Osmo Pocket ticks both these boxes. It weighs less than 120 grams and is only 12 cm in height, making it small enough to fit in your pants pocket. What makes the Osmo Pocket stand out from other

action cameras is its three-axis stabilised gimbal, which allows it to seamlessly and easily track action. Simply tap on the moving object on the screen, and the Osmos automatically follows it. It shoots in 4K at 60 frames per second and delivers stunning image quality. It takes still photos in JPEG and Raw format. PRICE R9 500, ormsdirect.co.za

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

SERIOUS

Silhouettes

Getting this type of photograph right can be tricky. Here are a few tips on how to get the perfect shot. WORDS & PHOTOS BY SAMANTHA REINDERS A silhouette photo refers to an image where there is a dark subject photographed against a bright background. The subject may be a person or an object, but we only see its form and not its details. Taking a great one requires some technical knowledge and understanding of light, but the results are worth the effort. Plus, practicing will add some fun to your road trip, and the good ones will get you some ooh’s and aah’s when you show your photographs back at home.

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION!

This matters when it comes to capturing a striking silhouette. I’ve found that open spaces work best: a flat, grassy field; a riverbank or beach along the ocean. Make sure, though, that the space isn’t cluttered with distracting elements, like cars, trees or buildings, because this can easily take the viewer’s attention away from the subject.

Photography tips & tricks

PICK THE BEST SUBJECT

You can silhouette almost anything, but some subjects are better than others. Colours, textures and tones aren’t as important as an object with a strong and recognisable shape that will stand out in its two-dimensional form. Think: person, giraffe or branch of a tree. Simple shapes with distinct lines work best. Make sure you’re able to isolate your subject from the background. If you’re shooting more than one subject, keep them separated, or it will appear as if they’ve merged into each other.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Photography tips & tricks

WHEN SHOULD I DO IT?

You want the background to be brighter than your subject. Sunrises and sunsets make for great silhouette photos. But let’s face it: at sunrise your duvet feels so warm and comfy, and when you’re road tripping you’re not always at the right spot at sunset. Don’t discount the middle of the day when the light is at its harshest because using the silhouette technique can help you get a great photo.

NAIL YOUR FOCUS

Although you’ll be exposing for the background, you’ll want to place your focus point on your subject. Lock the focus on your subject, not the background.

GO LOW!

Get those knees dirty – or even better, lie on your stomach! This will give you an uncluttered background and therefore a stronger photograph.

TURN OFF YOUR FLASH

Remember to turn off, disconnect or disable the camera’s flash setting each time you want to shoot silhouettes. Nowadays, the automatic setting on most cameras are made to sense potentially underexposed subjects and will trigger the flash if needed, making a silhouette shot impossible.

TOP TIP

Play with your camera’s exposure compensation dial. In a nutshell, exposure compensation gives you the ability to tell the camera to allow more or less light in. Shoot the image slightly underexposed (-1EV on the dial. Experiment until right). This will make the colours pop even more.

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

WHAT DO I SET MY CAMERA ON?

Because you want to shoot a silhouette, you’ll need to trick your camera by metering off the sky, not the subject. Start by pointing your camera at the brightest part of your frame, but not directly at the sun, and measure the light there. If you’re shooting on manual, use this information to calculate the rest of your settings. If you’re shooting on one of the priority modes, save this information by pressing halfway down on your shutter to record the exposure and then recompose before shooting.

57 CELLPHONE TIP Samantha Reinders is a freelance photojournalist who loves the open road. She has worked for National Geographic and was the photo editor at Weg!/go! magazine for four years. She took her first photographs from the passenger seat of a Land Rover and her favourite assignments still involve her being behind the wheel of a car with what lies over the horizon a question mark.

iPhone photo Unsplash

Any camera (or brand) that allows you to have full control of the settings (in other words allows you to shoot manually or on aperture or shutter priority) as opposed to simply being a point-and-shoot works best. If you only have a cellphone, don’t despair! Once you’re in camera mode, tap on the screen on the lightest part of the photo and it should bring up an exposure meter (or something that shows a positive and negative slider). Slide it down to make the whole photograph darker.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

THE FANCY ONE

Known for their comfortable walking and hiking shoes, it’s only natural that Hi-Tec would make their own vellies. Elegant with classic lines, no one will lift an eyebrow if your wear their Eland vellies to the boardroom. Seeing as it’s Hi-Tec, comfort is guaranteed. Made from real suede, the Eland vellies are available in navy blue, bison brown and khaki. PRICE R799 at trappers. co.za or hi-tec.co.za

THE NORTHERN CAPE VELLIE

Katu distribute their vellies from Johannesburg but employ several people in the Northern Cape to manufacture their shoes. Katu’s DKW, short for dans, kerk en werk (dance, church and work), has a wellrounded heel. As the name would suggest, it's appropriate for any occasion. Their Classic style is also eye-catching. PRICE R990 for the Classics and the DKW at katuvellies.com

Vellies have come a long way. This iconic South African shoe is just as at home on Loftus’ grandstand as it is on the runways of New York or a swanky evening event. Whether you’re wearing jeans or a suit, they complement any outfit. And with these local favourites, you’ll have the world at your feet.

IF THE

If you want something outside the box, look at what Klerekas.com has on offer. They break with tradition by offering more than just the predictable brown vellies. Their handmade shoes come in a variety of bright hues and pretty heart and flower designs. They even have a Delft-patterned pair. PRICE R899 (for the Ultramel vellies) at klerekas.com

vellie

FITS...

THE CELEB’S CHOICE

Veldskoen is arguably the brand that put vellies on the fashion forefront last year when actor Ashton Kutcher was photographed wearing their Pinotage vellies. This brand is known for adding a pop of colour in the form of bright soles and laces. The range was recently expanded to include Chelsea boots, and for fans of the green and gold, there is a Springbok version that has green soles and laces and the rugby team’s emblem on the heel. PRICE R899 for the Heritage vellies, R999 for the Springbok vellies and R1 199 for the Chelsea boot at outdoorwarehouse.co.za. The Springbok vellies are only available at veldskoen.shoes.

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

All images supplied

THE ALTERNATIVE

Lifestyle

THE AFFORDABLE ONE

THE OLD FAITHFUL Strassbergers has been making vellies in the Clanwilliam area since 1834 and is the oldest shoe factory in the country. But age hasn’t made them complacent. Offering vellies in boots or low-cut styles, with or without laces and in an array of different colours, Strassbergers is hard to beat when it comes to variety. All their shoes are handmade by Clanwilliam inhabitants and a profit-sharing agreement means that the staff share in the company’s revenue. The Karoo vellie can pass as a school shoe and the 401-Tyre uses recycled tyres for its soles. The style that caught our eye, however, is the Niklaas.

People in the Boland have gone vellie shopping at the Redemption leather factory for decades. The current owner, Arnold Slabber, learned how to make shoes when he was a child, and after a few years in the police service, he decided to turn his hobby into a profession. Based at the bottom of the Bainskloof Pass in Wellington, the colourful shop is well worth a visit, but you can also shop Redemption products online. Choose from vellies in traditional colours or decide to standout in a brightly coloured pair. We love the Yellow Miemies. PRICE R560 for the Geel Miemies at redemptionleather.com

THE CHOICE IS YOURS

Based in Jeffreys Bay, In-Step is a family-owned business that has created work opportunities in this coastal town by manufacturing a variety of shoe styles, from vellies and boots to slippers and sandals. Their vellies come in traditional hues, as well as trendy colours, such as dove grey, apple green, rose pink, orange, red and navy. You’ll spot their stall at outdoor fairs, or you can order online. PRICE R799 (for the pair pictured) at instep.shop

THE ONE THAT YOU CAN ONLY BUY HERE

PRICE R390 (Karoo), R450 (401-Tyre) and R1 180 (Niklaas) at strassbergers. co.za

THE NEW KID ON THE BLOCK

A new player entered the field when Boggom, an Afrikaans satirical writer, started selling vellies in February this year. The name is a nod towards the Adoons cartoon series created by TO Honiball. All vellies are handmade, and those in the men’s range are named after South African mountain ranges. The Magaliesberg style is a good allrounder that works for most occasions, the Sederberg is most at home on the farm, while the Drakensberg is perfect for hunters or a holiday in the bush. The Bergpatats is especially cut for women’s feet.

Freestyle is a well-known shoe brand that is famous for more than just their vellies. Their distinctive Hunter vellies are made from suede and are available in khaki and brown. For a more modern look, they have the mocha hued Nyala style that’s exclusive to Trappers. PRICE R949 at trappers.co.za

PRICE range between R949 and R1 149 at boggom.co.za

This selection of shoes was chosen by the editorial staff, and the various brand featured didn’t pay for the exposure. All prices mentioned can change without notice. Delivery costs are not factored into the prices. The editorial staff can’t accept responsibility for orders.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Recipes

L I K E E M I O T S

HOT!

CHICKEN CURRY WITH ALMOND RICE (P. 63)

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an old Navy tradition that a hot curry is served on the first night of a voyage to chase the storms away. These curries will help you brace the worst of the winter cold.

Recipes

SPICY MALAY PENANG CURRY SERVES 4 PREP: 45 min, plus overnight COOKING: 3 h 750g lamb chops Salt and pepper, to taste 150ml (⅔c) lamb or beef stock 30ml (2T) oil 1 large onion, chopped 3 large garlic cloves, crushed 1 thumb-sized piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated 1 red chilli, seeded and finely chopped 2 sticks cinnamon 2 bay leaves 2 whole cloves 4 allspice berries 5ml (1t) coriander seeds 10ml (2t) turmeric 20ml (4t) brown sugar 30ml (2T) chutney or apricot jam 20ml (4t) masala or curry powder 75ml tamarind water (see tip) 1 Heat a little oil in a heavybased pot and fry the chops in batches until golden brown. Spoon all the meat

back into the pot and season with salt and pepper. Add the stock and bring to the boil. Cover, reduce the heat and simmer until the meat is tender (about 2-2 ½ hours). Set aside until completely cooled. Refrigerate overnight so the fat layer on top can set. 2 Spoon off the fat layer and flake the meat from the bone. 3 In a heavy-based pot, heat the oil and fry the onions until soft. Crush the garlic, ginger, chilli, cinnamon, bay leaves, cloves, allspice and coriander seeds in a mortar until fine. Add the crushed spices and the turmeric, sugar, chutney and masala or curry powder to the onions and stir-fry for a few minutes. 4 Add the tamarind water and meat and simmer everything together until heated through. Serve with fresh coriander, rotis, sambal and sliced banana. TIP: To make tamarind water, mix 75ml water with a little tamarind paste according to taste. SPICY MALAY PENANG CURRY

DHAL CURRY

DHAL CURRY SERVES 6-8 PREP: 10 min SOAKING: 30 min COOKING: 30-40 min 250ml (1c) brown lentils 250ml (1c) red lentils 45ml (3T) butter 3 large onions, sliced 3 cinnamon sticks 2 whole cloves 1 tin (65g) tomato paste or 1 fresh tomato, chopped 20ml (4t) each roasted masala, ground coriander and ground cumin 5ml (1t) turmeric 45ml (3T) leaf masala 2 sweet potatoes and/or brinjals, cut into chunks 10ml (2t) crushed garlic 5ml (1t) grated fresh ginger 500ml (2c) boiling water 2 green chillies, chopped 125g green beans, cut into pieces (optional) Salt 80ml (¹⁄₃c) chopped fresh coriander Juice of 1 lemon 20ml (4t) garam masala

Small handful of bean sprouts (optional) 1 Soak the lentils (brown and red separately) for 30 minutes in lukewarm water. Drain them. 2 Heat the butter in a saucepan, add the onion and whole spices and stirfry until the onion is soft. 3 Mix the tomato with the ground spices. Add to the saucepan with the sweet potatoes and/or brinjals. Tip in the garlic and ginger. Stir-fry until fragrant. 4 Add the lentils, water and chillies. Simmer until the lentils are soft, adding more water if needed. Add the green beans (if using) and simmer until they are just done. Season with salt. 5 To finish, sprinkle the coriander and lemon juice on top. Stir, then sprinkle the garam masala and bean sprouts (if using) on top. Serve with rice and coriander sambal.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

TANDOORI CHICKEN WITH MANGO SALSA

CURRIED CHICKEN SOUP

CURRIED CHICKEN SOUP SERVES 4 PREP: 10 min COOKING: 1 h

15ml (1T) butter 15 ml (1T) oil 1 onion, chopped 4 garlic cloves, crushed 10cm fresh ginger, peeled and grated 1 chilli, chopped (optional) 15ml (1T) curry powder 10ml (2t) roasted masala 4 chicken pieces 1 chicken stock cube or equivalent 1,5 litres (6c) boiling water 30ml (2T) cornflour, dissolved in 20ml (4t) water 125ml (½c) cream or plain yoghurt 15ml (1T) lemon juice Salt 10g fresh parsley, chopped

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

4-6 rotis 1 Heat the butter and oil in a saucepan and fry the onion, garlic, ginger and chilli (if using) until fragrant. 2 Add the curry powder and masala and stir-fry for a few seconds. Add the chicken, stock cube (or equivalent) and the boiling water. First, bring it to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the chicken is tender and falling apart, between 40-50 minutes. 3 Remove the bones and stir in the cornflour mixture and cream or yoghurt. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. 4 Season with the lemon juice and salt and stir the parsley through. 5 Serve with rotis.

For the braai!

TANDOORI CHICKEN WITH MANGO SALSA SERVES 4 PREP: 20 min MARINATING: 24-48 h COOKING: 20 min TANDOORI CHICKEN 1,5kg chicken thighs and/or drumsticks 10ml (2t) salt Juice and zest of 1 lemon 10ml (2t) coriander seeds 5ml (1t) cumin seeds 1 onion, chopped 4 garlic cloves, peeled 7cm fresh ginger, peeled 20ml (4t) paprika 15ml (1T) garam masala 5ml (1t) turmeric 250ml (1c) plain yoghurt MANGO SALSA 2 large mangoes

Juice of 1 lime ½ chilli, deseeded and finely chopped Small handful of coriander or mint leaves ¼ red onion, finely chopped 1 Make a few deep cuts in each chicken piece. Arrange in a single layer in a casserole. Sprinkle with salt and rub the lemon juice and zest into the chicken pieces, making sure you get it into the cuts. 2 In a dry pan over high heat, fry the coriander and cumin seeds for 1-2 minutes. Remove from the pan and crush fine in a mortar and pestle. 3 To make the tandoori marinade, add the ground cumin and coriander and the rest of the ingredients to a food processor and blend. Pour the marinade over the chicken, making sure it gets

Recipes

10ml (2t) ginger, grated 5ml (1t) sugar 1 x 400g tin whole cherry tomatoes 250ml (1c) coconut milk CARAMEL BANANAS 2 bananas, cut in half 20g butter, melted 30ml (2T) brown sugar

Images: David Briers, Misha Jordaan, Megan Miller and Jacques Stander. Recipes and styling: Esther Malan, Hope Malau, Johane Neilson and Carmen Niehaus.

BEEF CURRY

into the cuts. Marinade in the fridge for a day or two. 4 Spray your braai grid with non-stick cooking spray (this prevents the marinade from sticking). Over very hot coals, braai the chicken for about 20 minutes, turning regularly. Five minutes before you’re done, brush the chicken with the marinade. The chicken is done if juices run clear when you cut into the thickest part. 5 MANGO SALSA Peel the mango and cut into slices. Mix the rest of the ingredients and pour over the mango. Serve with the braaied chicken. TIP: Try this recipe with chicken sosaties. Marinade it for one hour. Stack the sosaties in a shallow bowl that can be placed on the braai grid and cover in foil. Braai over medium hot coals for 25 minutes. Remove the sosaties

from the bowl and quickly sear over very hot coals for a golden-brown colour.

BEEF CURRY SERVES 4-6 PREP: 15 min COOKING: 1 h SPICE MIXTURE 5ml (1t) coriander seeds 5ml (1t) cumin seeds 5 cardamom pods, crushed, peeled CURRY 15ml (1T) oil 800g beef goulash Salt and pepper to taste 1 onion, roughly chopped 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 1 red chilli, roughly chopped 10ml (2t) garam masala 5ml (1t) turmeric 2 cinnamon sticks

1 SPICE MIXTURE In a pan over medium heat, toast the spices for 2 minutes or until they pop. Crush the spices in a pestle and mortar or an empty salt grinder. 2 CURRY In a frying pan, heat the oil over medium heat and brown the beef goulash on all sides. Season with salt and pepper and set aside. 3 In the same pan, sauté the onion and garlic until soft. Add the chilli, garam masala, turmeric, cinnamon sticks, ginger, sugar and crushed spice mixture. Cook with the onion and garlic and add 45ml (3T) water until it evaporates. 4 Add the goulash to the pan and cook, stirring until the beef is fully coated. Stir in the tomatoes and coconut milk. Cover and simmer on medium heat for 50 minutes or until the beef is soft and tender. 5 CARAMEL BANANAS Brush the bananas with the melted butter and sprinkle with the brown sugar. Add to a hot pan and fry until tender and sticky. Serve as is or mashed on the side.

CHICKEN CURRY WITH ALMOND RICE (P. 60) SERVES 4 PREP: 10 min COOKING: 30 min 30ml (2T) butter OR coconut oil 1 onion, chopped 15ml (1T) garlic and

ginger paste 1 red chilli, chopped 5ml (1t) turmeric 10-15ml (2-3t) garam masala 5ml (1t) ground cumin 5ml (1t) ground coriander 1 can (400g) chopped tomatoes 1 can (400g) coconut milk OR ½ coconut milk and ½ plain yoghurt 50g ground almonds (optional) 1 rotisserie chicken, roughly broken into pieces handful of fresh coriander, chopped RICE 250ml (1c) basmati rice, soaked in water for 15 min sesame oil handful of toasted almonds, chopped SALSA Cherry tomatoes, cucumber, chilli and red onion, diced Brown vinegar 1 Heat the butter or coconut oil in a pan and fry the onion, garlic and ginger paste and chilli until soft. Stir in the spices. 2 Add the tomatoes and simmer for 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Stir in the coconut milk or yoghurt mixture. 3 Add the ground almonds (if using) and heat until the sauce thickens slightly (2-3 minutes). Stir in the chicken and heat through for 5-7 minutes. Sprinkle the fresh coriander over. 4 RICE Drain the rice and boil in 500ml (2c) boiling salted water until done, about 15 minutes. Drain. Fluff the rice, drizzle a little sesame oil over and sprinkle the almonds on top. 5 SALSA Mix the ingredients. 6 Serve the curry with the salsa, rice and mango achar.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Brainteasers CROSSWORD NO 92 Vandalism

Naked

Vehicle

Chime

Rubbish

Turbine part

South (abbr)

Tennis shot

Famous tower in Paris

Wide open

Italian volcano

Tariff

Force

Pick

Sprite

Lump

Thrust forward

Final demand

Pull

Main point

Cat or dog

Spoiled

Perfect

Catch

Time code (abbr)

Cover

Undefeated

Fathers

While Clear

Scottish landowner

Drooped

Mature

Marks

Tilt shift (abbr)

A limb

Chromium (symbol) Yours truly

Majestic

Sly

Entombment

Holy person

Bills

Chlorine (symbol) Bible book

Written in verse

Neodymium (symbol)

Unhappy

Ceylon or rooibos, eg

Emit sparks "For sure!"

Energy

Black bird

Paradise

Feathers

Torments Indefinite article

June and July, eg

Sun god

Tints

The Notre Dame is in this city

Bismuth (symbol)

Fire residue

Rowing boat

Leased

Incan citadel in the Andes (5,6) Aromatic spice

Give a shot

Container

Possess Classify Depart

Show

British coin

In the direction

Student Union (abbr) Los Angeles (abbr)

Compass point

Proclaim loudly

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

United States (abbr)

Night fowl

Puzzles

SUDOKU easy

6 1 7 3 WHERE AM I? This mountain overlooks Lucerne, Switzerland. There are many theories swirling around the origin of its name. One claims that it was named after a Biblical figure. Another believes it was derived from a word that means "cloud-topped". Medieval legend has it that dragons with healing powers live on the mountain.

2 7 5 2 4 9 3 6 1 3 4

2 8 5 4 1 8 9 1 7 3 6 9 7 5 5 4 1 7 8 9 3

SUDOKU hard

8 2 5

3 4 2 7 5 9 7 6 4 2

6 6 3 7 1 5 4 2 9 8

9 4 5 6 2 8 1 3 7

sudoku solutions easy

5 6 9 3 1 7 8 2 4

7 1 8 4 9 2 3 5 6

4 2 3 5 8 6 9 7 1

2 5 4 8 7 3 6 1 9

8 9 1 2 6 5 7 4 3

3 7 6 9 4 1 5 8 2

1 8 2 7 3 9 4 6 5

6 3 7 1 5 4 2 9 8

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sudoku solutions hard

Quick Quiz answer: b

1 8 2 7 3 9 4 6 5

a) De Aar b) Putsonderwater c) Pofadder d) Campbell

3 7 6 9 4 1 5 8 2

What is the name of the famous ghost town in the Northern Cape?

4 2

8 9 1 2 6 5 7 4 3

QUICK QUIZ

2 5 4 8 7 3 6 1 9

C G O A R E T S S O E D R A N E T R P E E E T S

3 9

4 2 3 5 8 6 9 7 1

M B E L L O G E R S M E O F A C O S I N E A T B E Y L I B E N G D E N E A N T R T I L

This coastal city, which is also known as the â&#x20AC;&#x153;the city of seven mountainsâ&#x20AC;?, is renowned for its old harbour area, called Bryggen. It is the second largest city in Norway.

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R E C O U L O P F U Y E T S R U T B I A S I S I N N S E A S U S E D E O H A R D L O O S V E A L D R E S D E E S

WHERE AM I?

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Solution to No 91

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WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Ideal reading for cold winter nights Our travel plans may have been put on hold, but we can still escape to the stunning destinations mentioned in the pages of these books. Here is a selection of our favourites.

Dream of new places

TITLE MANMADE WONDERS OF THE WORLD PUBLISHER DORLING KINDERSLEY

Dorling Kindersley’s travel guides tend to stand out on bookstore shelves. Unlike typical guides that give detail on budget accommodation, train ticket prices and discount coffee shops, these superb books are wonderful sources of information on a destination’s cultural treasures. It shares details on paintings, unusual architecture and natural wonders. If you find yourself in the Louvre in Paris, for example, and you can’t get hold of a museum guide, then the Dorling Kindersley will give you a 10-page review and share facts on the museum’s most important pieces of art. Natural Wonders of the World and Manmade Wonders of the World are two large format coffee table books (20 cm x 30 cm x 4 cm and 440 pages thick), and after paging through it, you’ll add quite a few destinations to your travel bucket list. It contains photos, graphs and explanatory sketches on a wide array of noteworthy destinations, from Victoria Falls to Machu Picchu, the Eiffel Tower, Stonehenge and the Empire State Building. Natural Wonders of the World flew off the shelves at Exclusive Books. Ask them to order one for you. They still have copies of Manmade Wonders of the World. Price: R328 at Exclusive Books

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

Books

The secrets in our own backyard

For (future) trips

This selection of books was chosen by the editorial staff, and the various authors and publishers didn’t pay for the exposure. All prices mentioned can change without notice. T D Delivery costs are not factored into the prices. The editorial sttaff can’t accept responsibility for orders. Main image: Patrick Tomasso, Unsplash. Book images supplied.

TITLE ROAD TRIPPING SOUTH AFRICA AND ROAD TRIPPING NAMIBIA PUBLISHER MAPSTUDIO

If you’re looking for an accurate map, then MapStudio is one of the most trusted sources out there. These two guides are perfect for those who have some leave and want to start planning. Road Tripping South Africa details at least 20 iconic trips, whereas the Namibian version has 15. I say more than 20 because some of the longer road trips can easily be divided into two tours. The Tumbling Waters route, for example, takes you over the Long Tom Pass to Sabie, Pilgrim’s Rest, Motlatse Canyon and Graskop. Each route entry includes the distance, estimated time on the road, interesting stops, important telephone numbers, what type of vehicle is needed and if the accommodation amenities are child and pet friendly. And of course, a map of the route because that’s what MapStudio does best. Just like foodies can read recipes books like story books, so travel junkies can enjoy these guides from cover to cover. Even if you can’t get in your car and go on a journey, these guides will help relieve your travel withdrawal symptoms in the meantime. Price: R330 each at all AA stores

TITLE CRADLE OF LIFE: The Story of the Magaliesberg and the Cradle of Humankind BY VINCENT CARRUTHERS PUBLISHER PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE SA

It’s surreal to think that a small piece of land just outside of Johannesburg played such a crucial role in the history of humankind. Vincent Carruthers, a famous scientist who has had a lifelong fascination with this region, has written an excellent book detailing the area's history. Cradle of Life goes into the finest of details, and Carruthers starts quite literally right at the beginning - at the start of our planet. The following chapters describes what happened in the region 13 800 years ago, 4 600 million years ago, 4 500 million years ago, period by period, until we reach the present day. Archaeology buffs will get lost in this book’s pages, which are well-illustrated with photos, diagrams and sketches. If you’ve added the Cradle of Humankind to your must-visit list after reading our article on p. 32, then this book is perfect for you. Price: R308 (softcover) at Exclusive Books or R189 (e-book) at Takealot.com

A journalist takes on rhino poaching in this thriller

TITLE DEAD OF NIGHT BY MICHAEL STANLEY PUBLISHER JONATHAN BALL

Freelance journalist Crystal Nguyen travels to South Africa to write a rhino poaching article for National Geographic while simultaneously searching for her missing colleague. But it’s not long before things so sideways. Hot on the trail of rhino poachers, she’s arrested in connection with a murder. Crystal also has her own skeletons in th the closet that she needs to d deal with. If you’re a fan of Michael S Stanley’s Kubu series, then you’ll love meeting Crystal. There are already six b books in the popular crime series featuring the sharp-witted detective D David “Kubu” Bengu. Set in B Botswana, the Gaborone d detective gets his nickname K Kubu (Tswana for hippo) frrom his massive frame. The “writer” behind this

series is just as interesting as its plotlines. Michael Stanley is the pen name of two writers: Michael Sears and Stanley Trollip. Both are retired professors - Sears in mathematics and Trollip in educational psychology. They were born in South Africa but have often travelled through and experienced adventures in Africa, from chasing away elephants from a dusty landing strip at a small Botswana airport to helping fight veld fires on the Savuti plains. It was during one of these trips that they came up with the idea for the Kubu series. At a book launch in 2019 they explained their process. They lock themselves away for a weekend so that they can brainstorm and agree on a basic storyline. One writes chapters 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 and

the other chapters 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10. Afterwards, they edit each other work If you’re a Deon Meyer fan and love to travel north of South Africa, you’ll enjoy these books. Price: Dead of Night: R203 at Exclusive Books (soft cover) or R109 (e-book) on Takealot.com. You can download e-book versions of the first two books in the Kubu series (A Carrion Death and The 2nd Death of Goodluck Tinubu) as a package deal (R239), and four of the first six books are available at Exclusive Books (from R180 to R333).

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

H2 FULL PRICE LIST: City 6MT: R279 900 Luxury 6MT: R304 900 City 6AT: R314 900 Luxury 6AT: R339 900

Fit the whole family 68

If there is one thing every family needs when it comes to cars, it’s space. There never seems to be enough of it. And when you finally find one that’s big enough, the price often isn’t in your budget. Here are five family-friendly cars at different price points. BY JULIET MCGUIRE

HAVAL H2 In 2017 Haval burst onto the South African scene with its H2, and to be honest, people were rather sceptical. In the past, Chinese car brands haven’t fared well here. The sales figures proved the cynics right with only 34 units sold that July. Fast forward to October 2019 and Haval has had the last laugh. It sold over 1 000 H2s and has become the third most popular SUV in South Africa. And that's no small feat when you consider that it had to beat out its very successful Japanese and European rivals. But maintaining such appeal can

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

be difficult, so Haval has given its star model a slight nip and tuck. The revised H2 boasts a new grille, bumper and headlights. The changes are subtle, but it makes an impact. Space is what this compact SUV has going for it, especially if you consider the rear passenger legroom. But it falls short when it comes to boot space. It is not as big as some of its rivals. You must weigh up what is more important to you: space for all the kiddies in the back seat or for all the baggage that comes with them? Haval has, at least, taken your back into consideration. The seats are at an

Motoring

average hip-height, easy to get in and out of and picking up and placing the kiddies in their seats is more convenient. And if the Frozen 2 soundtrack is on your iPhone, you’re in luck because Apple CarPlay is now standard in the H2. Unfortunately, those of us with Android phones will have to sit this one out. If you opt for the top spec Luxury model, you will have a panoramic sunroof. The entrylevel City model has more than enough standard spec, and from a safety point of view, peace of mind comes from the six airbags standard across the range. Under the bonnet lies a 1.5-litre turbopetrol which produces 105 kW of power and 202 Nm of torque. It is an older engine (we await Haval’s new engines to hit South Africa). It's fine for driving around the city, but long journeys might require more effort from this engine. You will certainly need to plan your overtaking manoeuvres carefully, especially if you are loaded with kids and luggage. And it might prove to be a little thirsty. You will see readings around the 8l/100 km mark as opposed to its rivals' 6l/100 km mark. But with prices from R279 900, inclusive of a 5-year/100 000 km warranty and a 5-year/60 000 km service plan, you can't deny its value for money.

PEUGEOT 5008 If you have a large family, what's better than a seven-seater? The previous Peugeot 5008 was considered an MPV, which has lost its appeal here in South Africa, if not worldwide. The new 5008 has now been restyled and rebranded as an SUV – the most popular of segments. The most appealing thing about this 5008 is its versatility. Not only does it have seven seats, but if the last two seats are vacant, you can fold them flat into the luggage compartment, or if you prefer, remove them altogether. This means you have an enormous boot - five seats and a boot space of 780-litres. And if that isn’t enough, the second row has three matching, separate, folding and tilting seats. With all the seats being the same width, there will be no fighting over who gets to sit more comfortably. And each seat features three-point Isofix

5008 FULL PRICE LIST: Allure 1.6 THP: R550 900 Allure 2.0 HDi: R571 500 GT Line 1.6 THP: R596 900 GT Line HDi: R616 900

anchor points. Car seats for everyone! Peugeot is also giving you a choice between either a petrol or a diesel engine. A 1.6-litre turbopetrol, with its 121 kW and 240 Nm or torque, will give you a claimed fuel consumption of 7l/100 km. Alternatively, opt for the 2.0-litre turbodiesel for a claimed fuel consumption of just 4.8L/100 km. You won’t lose out on performance either with its 110 kW and 310 Nm. The not so entry-level Allure model is jam-packed with standard features: dualzone climate control, a hands-free tailgate (just swipe your foot under the boot for it to open), auto headlamps and wipers, parking sensors, keyless entry, USB/ Bluetooth connectivity, as well as Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. If you want the fancy features such as the front-seat massage function, a wireless charging pad, full LED headlamps, leather upholstery, SAT Nav, a 180-degree camera, which gives you an aerial view of the rear of the car and around it during parking, and semiautonomous safety package, then go for the GT Line.

69 The autonomous driving comes into play with features such as an Automatic Emergency Braking System (AEBS). While all models come with Distance Alert, which warns you if you're at risk of a collision, the GT Line adds AEBS that will automatically brake for you. Another top feature is the speed sign recognition and speed suggestion, which is standard across the range. The camera above the windscreen recognises and interprets road sign markings and displays the corresponding speed on the instrument panel. Or you can set a cruising speed and safe following distance with the GT Line's Adaptive > Cruise Control with stop feature.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Motoring

COROLLA SEDAN FULL PRICE LIST: Corolla 1.8 XS CVT: R380 200 Corolla 2.0 XR 6MT: R420 500 Corolla 2.0 XR CVT: R433 700

TOYOTA COROLLA SEDAN

It may seem like the odd one out in this mix of cars, but sedans are far too often overlooked by families who are hellbent on getting a SUV. Sedans are spacious and practical family cars, and if you consider that the Corolla is the world’s best-selling nameplate, then you shouldn’t omit it from your list of potential family cars. The Corolla first launched in 1966, and now we have the 12th generation here in South Africa. The styling is similar to that of its hatchback sibling with the same front-end treatment, but there are minor variations. The new Corolla sits on Toyota’s TNGA (GA-C) platform, which means it gives designers more freedom to create a dynamic exterior. According to Yasushi Ueda, Corolla's chief engineer, “all variants in the Corolla family are now visually distinctive and feature an individual look with a lower stance and more appealing proportions. We’ve also ensured better all-around visibility for the driver by implementing thinner A-pillars and a lowered dashboard and

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

bonnet.” There are eight exterior colours to choose from, six of which are new. The previous model had 11 derivatives to choose from, but Toyota has decided to only offer three high-spec models. You have two engine choices. The 1.8-litre naturally aspirated engine is mated to a Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) and gives you 104 kW and 171 Nm of torque. Or you can opt for the new 2.0-litre petrol engine. It puts out 125 kW and 200 Nm and is mated to either a six-speed manual or the CVT, which happens to have the lowest claimed fuel consumption of just 6.0L/100 km. The two trim levels are either the XS or XR. Whichever model you choose, you will enjoy features such as climate control with Eco mode, a reverse camera, power seat adjustment, one-touch functionality for the electric windows, keyless entry, tilt and telescopic steering adjustment, steering switches, cruise control and a touchscreen featuring Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. The flagship XR model adds heated side mirrors, adaptive cruise control, a digital speedometer, brake assist, lane-departure warning and blind-spot monitoring.

With a 470-litre boot space, which is similar to that of some of the SUVs mentioned in this feature, ample legroom for rear passengers, seven airbags and many other safety features, one can see why the new Corolla should be considered as a potential family car. If the Corolla doesn’t fit your budget, check out the Corolla Quest.

CITROËN C3 AIRCROSS Not everyone wants to be run-of-themill when it comes to cars. If you want something on the quirky side, Citroën has you covered with its C3 Aircross. In terms of style, there isn’t anything quite like it on the market, and it's not for everyone. The Spicy Orange pack that comes standard cannot be done away with. You are stuck with the orange "venetian blinds" on the small back windows. Some will love it; some will hate it. Your choice of exterior colours is limited to White, Platinum Grey or Soft Sand, with the Spicy Orange Pack on all three. The kids will love it. If orange is not your colour, you may have to avert your eyes when you get into the cabin. The colour is all over

Motoring

If it is parts availability that puts you off, don’t worry. Citroën South Africa’s new MD, Xavier Gobille, assures customers that they will have peace of mind with Citroën Serenity, a 5-year/100 000 km warranty and service plan as well as the surety that if your car takes longer than 48 hours to repair, you will get a courtesy car.

LEXUS RX

This selection of cars was chosen by the editorial staff, and the various car manufactures featured didn’t pay for the exposure. All prices mentioned can change without notice. All opinions mentioned are that of the editorial staff and not necessarily that of the AA. All images supplied.

C3 AIRCROSS FULL PRICE LIST: PureTech Feel: R355 900 PureTech Shine: R380 900

the place. But it is also an uncluttered, modern and spacious interior. In the Shine model, Citroën has cleverly made the rear bench slide and split 60/40 so that you can fold them independently of each other. You’re getting 520-litres of boot space with those seats moved forward. The Feel model’s boot is 410-litres. The entry-level Feel model boasts a seven-inch touchscreen infotainment system, rear parking sensors, six airbags and even Lane Departure Warning to keep you from accidentally crossing road markings. The Shine model adds Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, smart entry and keyless start, auto rain sensors, navigation and climate control. You can also choose 17-inch diamond-effect aluminium wheels on the Shine model, otherwise you’ll be set with the 16-inch alloys. The only engine available is the award-winning 1.2-litre PureTech 81 kW turbopetrol, which is matched to a six-speed automatic transmission. It produces 205 Nm of torque, but on the open road, you will need to plan those overtaking manoeuvres very carefully.

Lexus is no longer seen as an “old man’s car”. Toyota’s luxury brand has come a long way, and the fourth generation RX further proves that its vehicles are all about comfort and luxury. Look, when you’re spending more than a million on a car, you expect a certain level of opulence, and when looking at the revised RX, this is what you get. It’s all angles and sharp edges while maintaining a sporty, yet elegant, stance on the road. The cabin is also luxurious with a new 12.3-inch centrally displayed touchscreen, trackpad and voiceoperated infotainment system. The RX comes standard with an onboard WiFi hotspot with an initial 15 GB data plan, so you’ll always be connected. What sets the RX apart from many

of its rivals is the fact that there is no options list. The models come standard with everything you could need. From wireless charging pads to ambient lighting packages and a 15-speaker Mark Levinson sound system (on the F Sport and Hybrid). Speaking of the models, the RX was the first luxury segment car to offer the choice of a self-charging hybrid powertrain in the form of the RX 400h back in 2005. Fast forward to 2020 and Lexus says you can take everything you love about the RX and give it more performance with greater efficiency and you will get the RX450h, which boasts a 3.5-litre V6 engine paired with electric motors and mated to a CVT. As much as the hybrid is set to impress, the line up now offers, for the first time, a bespoke F Sport version in the guise of the RX 350 F Sport. The exclusive styling is more aggressive and features elements such as 20-inch split 10-spoke alloy wheels finished in dark granite. It boasts exclusive race-inspired instrumentation and sport seats. Transporting the family in this sporty-looking seven-seater has never looked, or felt, so good. This is one for the luxury seekers!

RX FULL PRICE LIST: RX350 EX: R1 032 200 RX350L EX: R1 108 700 RX350 F Sport: R1 154 800 RX450h: R1 342 100

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Motoring

FIRST Im

Motoring journalist Juliet McGuire takes the Kia Seltos, Toyota C-HR, Land Rover Discovery Sport and Suzuki S-Presso for a spin. Here are her thoughts.

pression s

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

Motoring

More car for your money

KIA SELTOS

With its high spec list, luxury features and oodles of space, you should consider the Kia Seltos. When it comes to the compact SUV segment, the market is bursting at the seams. Kia has only recently thrown its hat in to the compact SUV ring with the Seltos. But can it really be considered all that compact? The Seltos is seen as a competitor to cars such as the Volkswagen T-Cross, Hyundai Venue and Renault Captur, but it’s bigger and more expensive. It closely matches the Renault Duster size-wise, but many compare it to the Nissan Qashqai. That said, you should seriously consider the Seltos if you are in the market for a small SUV. Kia has managed to bring very high-specced Seltos models to South Africa. You’ve got a choice between the EX, EX+ and range-topping GTLine, but even the starting point, the EX, feels mid-range. It boasts standard features such as air conditioning, automatic headlights, a multifunction steering wheel, cruise control,

electric windows, USB ports front and rear and an eight-inch touchscreen infotainment system that features Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. That’s not entry level. The EX+ has leather upholstery, hill-start assist, electronic stability control and 17-inch alloy wheels. And the GT-Line adds more styling elements and a Drive Model Select, which allows you to switch between Normal, Eco and Sport mode and even 2WD Terrain Mode that offers Snow, Mud and Sand. No matter which model you pick, it comes with many bells and whistles. But what’s the catch? I don’t want to call it a catch, but it is certainly a consideration: the engine. In the EX and EX+ you only have the choice of a 1.6-litre naturally aspirated engine, which can take a bit of strain. On the open road, performance is sufficient, but the lack of turbo will be felt in a car filled with people and baggage. And there is the high fuel consumption: 7.5l – 8l/100 km. The only positive here is the torque-converter automatic mated to this engine, which is excellent, barring the odd screech when pushing it. The GT-Line has the engine you want. It is a 1.4-litre

turbocharge petrol engine, and it’s a delight to drive. The extra 91 kW of torque you get with this engine comes in very handy when on an incline or when overtaking. The 1.6-litre’s figures sit at 90 kW and 151 Nm, while the 1.4-litre unit produces 103 kW and 242 Nm. Fuel consumption is also less at 6.3l/100 km. Seltos delivers on both practicality and space - a must in a family vehicle. The rear legroom is aplenty, and the rear seats can recline for that extra bit of comfort. The boot space is a respectable 433-litres with the rear seats up. Safety has also been carefully considered with six airbags, ABS, EBD, rear parking sensors, a reverse camera and Isofix anchorage points standard in all models. Should you buy a Seltos? You should consider it. It may overlap in pricing with the entry-level RAV4 or Tucson, but it's spacious and jampacked with features. The EX pricing starts at R369 995, which is in line with that of the T-Cross and Venue, but you are getting more car with the Seltos. Even if you opt for the “entry-level’’ Seltos, you will feel like you are sitting in a segment just a smidge higher than some of its rivals. >

MODEL CHOICE Seltos GT-Line PRICED FROM R460 995 SERVICE PLAN 5-year/90 000 km WARRANTY Unlimited kilometre/ 5-year warranty FUEL CONSUMPTION 6.3l/100 km

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Motoring

Image: Cornel van Heerden

MODEL CHOICE C-HR 1.2T Luxury CVT PRICED FROM R486 100 SERVICE PLAN 6 services/90 000 km WARRANTY 3-year/100 000 km FUEL CONSUMPTION 6.4l/100 km

Style over space

It has a pretty face, but it's not the best choice if you're looking for a family car.

TOYOTA C-HR

There aren’t many vehicles in the family car segment that choose style over practicality, but the Toyota C-HR is one such car. I wouldn’t say it’s completely impractical, but I wouldn't recommend it for a family. Rather, it was made for someone who is more concerned about design. You could argue that it’s one of the Japanese maker’s best-looking cars. Toyota usually prefers a more practical approach, but the C-HR is a standout. It has received a stylish nip and tuck with a tweaked front bumper and repositioned fog lamps. The lower lip is now finished in the body colour and the headlights on the Standard and Plus models have been upgraded to LED technology, the same as seen on the existing Luxury model. The daytime running lights and indicators are now combined into a single line above the main beam, and at the rear, bright red tail lamps are connected by

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

a gloss black spoiler. Some of the tech upgrades include a new infotainment system that offers Apple CarPlay and Android Auto as standard. Whether you use this as a family car or not, having WiFi on board will be much appreciated by everyone, especially as Toyota has included a standard 15 GB data package. You can top it up as you see fit, with the current prices at around R220 for 5 GB. The top spec Luxury model now boasts the latest version of the Toyota Safety Sense system, which includes blind-spot monitoring, lane-change assist, rear cross traffic alert, a precrash system, adaptive cruise control and lane-keeping assist. The engine across the range remains the same. It is the 1.2-litre turbocharged petrol engine which produces 85 kW and 185 Nm of torque. You can choose between a six-speed manual or CVT. This car

is noticeably pleasant to drive. I say noticeably because not only is the engine surprisingly sprightly, but the ride is super smooth and there is minimal noise coming into the cabin. It feels light and nimble and even though it is considered a crossover, it feels like you are driving a bigger car. The driving position is higher than what you might expect and the cabin quite spacious. The boot, on the other hand, is not that big at just 328-litres. It’s smaller than some of its rivals, and you would struggle to fit luggage for more than two passengers. But as I mentioned before, this car isn't meant for a big family. It’s perfect for a childless couple or a single person who doesn’t require a large boot. It competes with cars such as the Hyundai Kona and Nissan Juke, both of which are also more about design and style than > practical offerings.

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LAND ROVER DISCOVERY SPORT

Terrific tech

It may be cheaper than the Land Rover Discovery, but the Discovery Sport doesn’t skim on high-technology features and practicality.

If ever there was a car to take your family off-road in style, then the updated Land Rover Discovery Sport might be it. Targeted at customers whose budgets might not stretch to afford a Land Rover Discovery, it offers more than enough style, tech and offroad capability. The updates are subtle and might even be missed unless you look closely. It has new LED headlamps at the front and rear, a new bumper and grille and you can now get 21-inch wheels. The interior hasn’t changed much, except for a few tweaks to make it even more modern. The Terrain Response Dial has been integrated into the climate control console and at the touch of a button the temperature dial transforms into the terrain dial. It all looks very slick and cool. It’s the Disco Sport's added technology, which was first seen on the new Range Rover Evoque, that sparks interest. Land Rover’s Activity Key – a wearable waterproof wristband – allows you to leave the key in the car when you go mountain biking or surfing. You just throw the key into the car, close the doors and touch the wristband against a spot on the

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

tailgate and the car locks. If someone happens to break into the car, the key is deactivated so they won’t be able to drive off. When you return, merely touch your wristband in the same spot again and voila, the car unlocks. ClearSight Ground View is another bit of technology that blows the mind. This tech projects camera imagery that offers a virtual 180-degree view beneath the vehicle onto the touchscreen, effectively making the bonnet invisible! And then there’s also the ClearSight View Mirror which is great if you have loaded a box into the back or someone is sitting in the rear and blocking your view. At the switch of a button, the rear-view mirror transforms in a video screen and displays what is behind the car in high definition. The Disco Sport is versatile, which is a much-needed feature when trying to pile the whole family into a vehicle. The optional seven seats make an already practical car even more practical. Land Rover claims that there are 24 seating combinations available. As a fiveseater, it is very spacious. Just bear in mind that if you opt for the seven seats and they’re up, the boot space is

limited. You have a choice between either a diesel or petrol engine. The D180badged models boast a 2.0-litre, four-cylinder turbodiesel with 132 kW and 430 Nm. Although it is lighter on fuel than the P250-badged 2.0-litre turbocharged, four-cylinder engine with 184 kW and 365 Nm, you will need to be careful as the claimed fuel consumption of just 5.8l/100 km is quite hard to achieve. I was closer to 10l/100 km. Either way, when you

MODEL CHOICE Discovery Sport D180 R-Dynamic HSE PRICED FROM R898 000 WARRANTY/ SERVICE PLAN 5-year/100 000 km Care Plan FUEL CONSUMPTION 5.8l/100 km hit the open road you will thoroughly enjoy the new smooth-shifting and quiet nine-speed automatic transmission. A premium car like the Disco Sport carries a high price tag, but can you put a price on luxury? With a starting price of R749 500 going well over R900 000, I guess you can.

Motoring

Best budget buy

SUZUKI S-PRESSO

Meet the S-Presso, currently the most afforable new car in South Africa. Budget cars are tricky to get right. When the Datsun GO and Renault Kwid came out a few years ago, there was outrage because they didn’t meet certain standard safety requirements and didn’t include safety features such as airbags or ABS. Thankfully, manufacturers upped their game and started to produce safer budget cars. What the Suzuki S-Presso adds to the to the budget car market is that it is also a fantastic drive. I managed to get behind the wheel of one just before lockdown and was pleasantly surprised. But more on that later. I first want to talk about its appearance. They say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but I’m not sure who would find the S-Presso beautiful. It’s an odd-looking little thing. Some have compared its looks to a Jeep or even a Mahindra. You might have to look past its design to see that it is a great product. The inside is what I imagine many would term “funky”. Either I am too old or just too judgmental, but I find the

adds a few silver details, but I think the Mini-inspired circular centre console a bit jarring, especially when it is in Sizzle GL+ is the model to go with. A small, naturally aspirated 1.0-litre, Orange. Thankfully some of the other three-cylinder petrol engine with 50 available colours like Metallic Granite kW and 90 Nm of torque means a Grey isn’t so in-your-face. very low claimed fuel consumption But this is where the negativity ends. of just 4.9l/100 km. You can even The value for money that this car choose between a five-speed manual offers is nothing short of amazing. It or five-speed automated manual is currently the cheapest car on the transmission. I drove the manual and market with a starting price of just was impressed by the smooth-shifting R134 900. And for this price you will box and the fact that, unlike many still enjoy features such as airbags, budget cars, the clutch doesn’t lift so ABS, electric windows for the front high that you end up stalling the whole occupants, rear parking sensors, air time. It is an easy and pleasant drive. conditioning, power steering and What makes the S-Presso even a multi-information display, which more appealing is a year’s free includes information such as distance insurance and one of the best to empty, trip duration and distance warranties around. For around R60 a travelled. The GL+ model adds a day, you could own a S-Presso, and touchscreen colour infotainment the only cost of ownership will include system with Appel CarPlay and fuel and tyres. I am not sure it can be Android Auto. USB and auxiliary ports, beat in terms of value for money. as well as Bluetooth connectivity, are also standard, not to mention the reverse MODEL CHOICE S-Presso 1.0 GL+ camera. There is a PRICED FROM R139 900 S-Edition model that

SERVICE PLAN 2-year/30 000 km WARRANTY 5-year/200 000 km FUEL CONSUMPTION 4.9l/100 km

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

Car checks

BE ROAD READY

After lockdown you're more likely to go on a road trip than board a plane. But before you drive off, first ask yourself if your car is up to the task. We spoke to Layton Beard, AA’s public relations manager, to find out what are the 10 vehicle checks you must do before you hit the road. BY PETRO-ANNE VLOK

Check your mileage and when you’re due for your next service

Will your car reach its service mileage while you’re on holiday? If so, consider taking it in before you leave. If there are any issues, it’ll be fixed. If not, it’ll give you peace of mind before heading out. Don’t leave this to the last minute. Your service should be at least a week before your departure date. If there are serious issues, this allows for enough time to order replacements parts and get it fixed before your holiday starts. Also, service centres tend to be incredibly busy just before peak travel times (think Easter weekend or school holidays), so it’s best to call a few weeks in advance to make your booking.

What is the state of your tyres?

Tyres keep your car on the road, so they’re a critical safety feature. Check the tread on your tyres and your spare tyre. If it has run down to the tread wear indicators (a raised bump in each tread groove), you need to replace them. Take your car to a tyre specialist and ask them to assess if you’re in doubt. If you’re towing anything, for example a caravan, trailer or boat, you need to check the tyres on these vehicles as well. Do this even if you haven’t towed them in a while. Rubber deteriorates over time and if left parked for a while, tyres can develop flat spots. Then there’s the tyre pressure. Check in your car’s manual or inside the

Car checks

driver’s side front door what the pressure should be. It should give you a reading for different scenarios, for example, what is the correct pressure if you’re a family of four travelling with luggage. Have your tyres, including your spare, pumped to the right pressure at a petrol station.

Are your windscreen wipers still working?

Your windshield and windows

Inspect your vehicle’s bodywork

This is another critical safety feature that needs to be assessed. Even if you haven’t used your wipers much since the rainy seasons, they can perish over time and may no longer be in working order. Test both your front and back wipers by activating your windscreen washer spray and switching on your wipers. Watch as it moves across the glass with the fluid. If there is any steaking, vibrating, squeaking, a veiled effect or the wipers miss part of the windshield, then it’s time to have them replaced.

Have a look underneath

Inspect the interior

Don’t forget to look underneath your car as well. Are there any obvious obstructions or does anything look out of place? Do you see any leaks? If there is a wet patch where your car is parked in the garage, it should set off alarm bells. If you notice anything out of place, have it examined and fixed before your leave.

You also want the inside of your car to be in tiptop shape. Are all the seats securely fastened and in good condition? Are all the seatbelts, including those in the back, in good working order? Also check the pressure of the

ADDITIONAL SOURCE: AA.CO.ZA. Images: Getty/Gallo Images

Are there any chips or nicks, and can these potentially hinder visibility? Keep in mind that a small chip can become a big crack while you’re on the road. It may be wise to have it fixed before it becomes a safety issue.

Walk around your car. Can you see any visible damage? Is the bumper or side mirror a little on the loose side? It may not seem like a big issue now, but these can come off completely during your trip, causing additional, and possibly more expensive, damage. And you don’t want to waste your precious holiday time looking for a place to have it fixed.

Lights and indicators

Get someone to help you with this test. Ask a friend or family member to stand outside your car while you switch on the headlights and indicators. Are they working both in the front and rear? Pump the breaks and put the car in reverse to test if these lights are in working order. If you drive with faulty lights, you could be fined, or worse, cause a collision.

clutch and the brake pedals. Turn the key in the ignition and look out for any warning lights that come on. Is your car clean? You don’t want any loose items lying around because they can end up in the footwell or under the brake panel, which can prevent you from braking and cause a crash. And in the case of even a slow collision, items that aren’t bolted down can be transformed into deadly missiles.

In case of emergencies

Despite all your preparations, disaster can still strike. Save the contact numbers of emergency services and your roadside assistance services on your phone. Also write them down on a piece of paper in case something

happens to you phone. Keep it in your car manual in the glove compartment. If your roadside assistance service has an app, like the AA, be sure to download and activate it before you leave. Have the following emergency basics in your car: • Spare tyre and the tools needed to change a tyre (jack and lug wrench) • Emergency triangle • Cellphone charger • Jumper cables • Flashlight • Change of clothes and blankets • Umbrella or rain jacket • Water and snacks • Emergency first aid kit (see article on p. 80)

DON’T FORGET TO LOOK UNDERNEATH YOUR CAR AS WELL. ARE THERE ANY OBVIOUS OBSTRUCTIONS OR DOES ANYTHING LOOK OUT OF PLACE?

Check yourself

People tend to neglect this step, but it’s crucial. You also need to check yourself before you leave on a long journey, says Layton. “Do you have the right attitude for the road ahead? This doesn’t just apply to the driver, but also to the front seat passenger, because they need to be alert and aware of what is happening on the road. Both need a good night’s rest before the journey, and when they set out, focus on the road and nothing else.” Make the journey part of your holiday. “Stop every two hours or 200 km to relax and recharge.”

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

KITTED FOR

FIRST AID

MEDICAL MISHAPS

A proper first aid kit can keep a minor injury from becoming an emergency. Make sure you have everything you need in yours. BY PETRO-ANNE VLOK

f you want your next holiday to run smoothly, preparation is key, especially if you plan on going to a remote location. When going off the beaten track, a well-stocked first aid and medicine kit is crucial to the well-being of you and your fellow travellers. “It may be the difference between a minor incident or a lifethreatening one,” Russel Meiring, ER24 spokesperson, says. Your first aid kit should serve as an interim resource until help arrives, explains Christel Hanson, a pharmacist and lecturer from the Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences at Tshwane University of Technology. “It should also help in dealing with minor injuries that don’t require assistance from health care professionals.” Use your free time during lockdown to check and update yours with our advice on what should be included.

TAKE STOCK

Not replacing used items in your first aid kit is a common mistake, says Russel. “Not properly stocking the first aid kit, as well as not having enough equipment, can lead to problems when an emergency arises,” he explains. “With first aid kits, you should get quality products instead of going the cheaper route.”

BUT DON’T OVERDO IT

A first aid kit is meant to treat only minor injuries. “Having too much specialised items in a kit that nobody can use will be a waste of money and space,” Christel says.

KEEP MEDICINE SEPARATE

Don’t keep your meds in your first aid kit, Christel advises. It should be kept in a separate case with controlled access to prevent accidental overdose if there are children on the trip. “You’re also not allowed to dispense any form of medication for any particular ailment," she adds. "You can be held liable for any adverse effects the injured may occur, and you can be involved in unnecessary lawsuits. This is especially applicable if you’re travelling with members that are not your immediate family." Always get permission before administering medications.

IN STORES

80 X-large first aid outdoor kit PRICE: R499 AVAILABLE AT: Clicks

All-purpose kit

First aid classic maxi

PRICE: R274

PRICE: R399 AVAILABLE AT: Trappers

AVAILABLE AT: AA shops

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

Advice

MUST-HAVES

A basic first aid kit should include the following:

ADDITIONAL SOURCES: S AFR PHARM J 2016;83(10):13-16 SAPJ.CO.ZA

• Wound cleaner or

antiseptic (100 ml) • Alcohol-based hand sanitiser • Barrier cream, for example zinc oxide ointment • Burn gels or dressing • Swabs for cleaning wounds • Cotton wool for padding (100 g) • Sterile gauze (minimum quantity 10) • 4 triangular bandages • 4 roller bandages (75 mm x 5 m) • 4 roller bandages (100 mm x 5 m) • 1 roll elastic adhesive (25 mm x 3 m) • 1 non-allergic adhesive strip (25 mm x 3 m) 1 • packet adhesive dressing strips in assorted sizes (minimum quantity 10) • 4 first aid dressing rolls (75 mm x 100 mm) • 4 first aid dressings rolls (150 mm x 200 mm) • 2 eye pads with bandages • 1 pair forceps or tweezers (for splinters) • 1 pair sharp scissors (minimum size 100 mm) • 1 set safety pins (minimum 6) • Thermometer (not glass)

• Space blanket • 2 straight splints • Several pairs of small, medium and large disposable gloves

• 2 CPR mouth pieces or similar devices Add these if you’re travelling to the bush or a remote area:

• Insect repellent • Sting relief solutions containing aluminium sulphate

• Hydrocortisone cream (to treat swelling, itching and irritation caused by insect bites)

In a separate container, pack medication that can treat the following ailments:

• Pain and fever • Diarrhoea (include medication for

both severe and mild cases, as well as oral rehydrate solution) • Stomach cramps • Nausea tablets • Respiratory discomfort (antihistamines, decongestants, saline nose and eye drops and throat lozenges) • Heart burn and indigestion • Constipation • Inflammatory skin conditions (for example, 1% hydrocortisone cream) Antifungal or antibacterial cream • • Regular prescription medication (remember to bring a copy of your script) • If necessary, contact lenses or glasses, as well as a copy of your eye prescription

FIRST AID 81 Medic first aid box PRICE: R495 AVAILABLE AT: Dis-Chem

360 Degrees comprehensive first aid kit PRICE: R799 AVAILABLE AT: Outdoor Warehouse

Comprehensive kit PRICE: R866 AVAILABLE AT: AA shops

This selection of first aid kits was chosen by the editorial staff, and the featured brands didn’t pay for this exposure. All prices mentioned can change without notice. Delivery costs are not factored into the prices. The editorial staff can’t accept responsibility for orders.

WINTER 2020 | AA Traveller

The last word

When reality is so much better than the dream

AA Traveller | WINTER 2020

It was a bargain. Not just a good deal, but a proper, honestto-goodness bargain: R15 000 for two plane tickets and five nights in Rome. I took it as a sign from the gods and punched in my credit card details. It became a dream tour: Rome, Florence, one night on the Cinque Terre, and one night in Venice, because the city remains a must-see even though it is rotting away at its foundation. And two nights in Milan, so that we could be in the Scala on 16 December. As with all things predestined by the gods, arrangements simply fell into place. Evgeny Kissin performed Beethoven in Rome, and Gustavo Dudamel conducted the legendary Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia the night after our arrival. The museums we wanted to visit were open on the days we planned to be there, and we landed an exclusive tour to the rooftop of the cathedral in Florence. As a unexpected bonus, Bryan Adams performed in Milan the evening before the opera. And I managed to snatch that holy grail of tickets: access to the convent where Leonardo da Vinci had adorned the rectory wall with The Last Supper. The greatest human who had ever lived had stood there, and so did I. Dreams that come true sometimes have a nasty way of being underwhelming. That shiny brochure of an

Sophia Kapp is a prizewinning Afrikaans writer. Her latest novel, Kanaän, came out in May.

island paradise only shows you the ocean, never the wind or the bluebottles. This dream’s reality was the opposite. It was better than the dream. Yes, I’ve seen the pictures. Yes, I knew the history of the place. But to be there, to know that the people who had constructed civilisation as we know it today, who had written the laws that still govern society, who had created art that we still admire, had been there, had poured their light and their being into that place, that was better than a dream. I was in the presence of greatness. On Easter Sunday 2020 I watched Andrea Bocelli perform at the Duomo in Milan. I’m not a big fan, but I tuned in because the performance included video footage of the cathedral and the city. I saw the Scala, quiet and closed, the heart-wrenching statue of Bartholomew with his skin draped over his forearms. The bench in the cathedral on which I sat with my son. And the piazza, which had been packed with tourists and well-to-do Milanese when we had struggled across it with our luggage. At the same piazza, now completely empty, Andrea Bocelli sang an Amazing Grace that had me in tears. This emptiness still awaits us. I don’t have greatness to pour into it. All I have to fill the emptiness, is Nkosi sikilel' iAfrika. Illustration: Lynne Fraser

ong ago, I had a bucket list. I wanted to stand atop Machu Picchu like emperor Pachacuti and marvel at the magnificent city clinging to the mountain peak. Watch ballet at the Mariinsky, where Anna Pavlova had first danced the Dying Swan. Haggle over the price of a piece of multicoloured fabric in a Moroccan souk. Travel up the Amazon to the Encontro das Águas, the 6 km stretch of river where the dark waters of the Rio Negro meet the Amazon without mixing. But I made this list when I was young and naïve. Before home loans and divorces, before children and university tuition, before cars with slipping clutches, before I became aware of the dire financial need of people around me, people to whom I couldn't just say: be poor and miserable, my money is mine alone. My dreams simply didn’t fit my budget. And so, as life went on, my bucket list had shrivelled down to the vain hope that I would die before the dishwasher did. Then, on a serendipitous day in June 2019, I spotted the programme for La Scala. In December they would perform Tosca, my favourite opera, with Anna Netrebko, my favourite living soprano, in the lead role. Yes, in the face of the struggles of everyday life, my dreams had faded. Except this one, I found. To stand in the theatre where the legendary Arturo Toscanini had conducted, and the world's most beautiful voices had once resounded - Renata Tebaldi, Franco Corelli, Giuseppe di Stefano, Tito Gobbi and Maria Callas. This dream could survive everything, even pragmatism. I checked my bank account, took a deep breath and started shopping for flights.

BY SOPHIA KAPP