melt
The Art of Macaroni and Cheese
Stephanie Stiavetti & Garrett McCord Foreword by Michael Ruhlman
tablespoons butter
ounces Point Reyes Original Blue, coarsely crumbled
Freshly ground black pepper
Sea salt
¾ cup chopped mission figs
4
12 ounces whole wheat shell pasta
3
½ cup pecans
SERVES 2 AS AN ENTRÉE , 4 AS A SIDE
Grenache Blanc, champagne, port
roasted apricots, roasted nectarines, fresh green grapes
local honey,
Shaft’s Blue, Gorgonzola, Bayley Hazen Blue
ADDITIONAL PAIRINGS FOR THE CHEESE , OUTSIDE OF THIS RECIPE:
WINE PAIRINGS:
ALTERNATIVE CHEESES:
and pepper to taste and serve.
softened and melted a little. Add the pecans and figs and continue tossing. Add salt
brown butter and Point Reyes Original Blue and gently toss until the cheese has
a colander. Place back in the pot with the heat still on. Combine the noodles with the
3. Cook the pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water until al dente. Drain through
from the heat immediately and pour into a bowl.
Be sure to keep an eye on it, as it can go from brown to black in an instant. Remove
on the bottom of the pan. The butter will turn a light brown and begin to smell nutty.
The butter will foam and then subside. Eventually, lightly browned specks will form
2. Heat a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Add the butter and cook.
7 minutes. Set aside to cool. Once they’re cooled, chop the pecans coarsely.
1. Place the pecans in a single layer on a baking sheet. Roast in a 350°F oven for
who insisted I try it paired with figs, walnuts, and port. At the time, I wasn’t a fan of blue cheese, and I was hesitant. (I was twenty-four and naive, what can I say?) The creamy texture and fruity flavor of Point Reyes Original set me squarely on the path of blue, and I have never looked back. Simple pairing in a no-fuss mac-and-cheese dish really allows Point Reyes to shine. The goal here isn’t to cook the cheese but to apply just enough heat to melt it gently into the folds of the hot pasta. After that, a quick stir with some brown butter, figs, and toasted pecans forms a dish that’s perfect by itself and also makes a great side to a finely grilled steak. I insist you indulge in a glass of port too. In the winter, when fresh figs aren’t available, I use Medjool dates. Their brown-sugary flavor is a perfect sweetener to contrast with the cheese.
I WA S INTRODUCED TO POINT RE YES ORIGINAL BLUE BY MY FRIEND ASHLEY TEPLIN ,
POINT REYES ORIGINAL BLUE WITH PECANS, FIGS, AND SHELLS
tablespoons maple syrup
teaspoon ground mustard
heaping tablespoon cocoa nibs
¼
1
ounces Bucherondin, roughly broken apart
cup pitted cherries (Bing, Brooks, or Rainier are all lovely varieties)
cups whole arugula leaves, washed and dried
5
1
2
cherries, tea preserves, fresh figs, mangoes
preserved
Bûcheron, Zingerman’s Lincoln Log, Caña de Cabra
rosés, California Pinot Noirs
ADDITIONAL PAIRINGS FOR THE CHEESE , OUTSIDE OF THIS RECIPE:
WINE PAIRINGS:
ALTERNATIVE CHEESES:
vinaigrette, and serve.
hazelnuts. Top each bowl joyfully with a carefree handful of arugula, dress with the
4. Scatter the Bucherondin over the top of the pasta, followed by the cherries and
colander and divide the pasta evenly among four bowls.
3. While the hazelnuts are roasting, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain through a
want the bulk of them removed. Roughly chop the nuts and set aside.
in the dishtowel to scrub the skins off. Don’t worry if some of the skins stay; you just
hazelnuts in a clean dishtowel and leave them to steam for 1 minute. Rub the nuts
or until the skins darken and blister, and the nuts are hauntingly fragrant. Wrap the
2. Place the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes,
adjust seasonings as desired. Set aside.
vigorously to combine. (A bowl and whisk will do this job just fine too.) Taste and
12 ounces chocolate pasta (preferably linguine, but use what you can find)
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the hazelnut oil, red wine vinegar, maple syrup,
ground mustard, cocoa nibs, salt, and pepper in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake
½ cup hazelnuts
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of sea salt
tablespoons red wine vinegar
2
easy to put together using one or two chic ingredients that will take your culinary reputation up a peg and make you a champion in the kitchen. This is that dish. Bitter chocolate pasta, whole cherries, toasted hazelnuts, and a hazelnut–cocoa nib vinaigrette conspire to produce a savory treat that will amaze your guests. All this comes together around a Loire cheese called Bucherondin. Bucherondin sounds like the name of a French superhero; taste this lovely goat cheese, and you may very well decide that’s exactly what it is. Smooth and chalky at first, it sheds its mild-mannered identity and reveals an astonishing tang and spice.
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons hazelnut oil
2
YOU NEED AT LE A ST ONE SUPERBLY ESOTERIC RECIPE IN YOUR REPERTOIRE , SOMETHING
SERVES 2 TO 4
CHOCOLATE PASTA WITH BUCHERONDIN, HAZELNUTS, AND CHERRIES
ounces Cotija, shredded
2
1. Squeeze the chorizos out of their casings and break into bite-size pieces. Place
2. Cook the pasta in salted boiling water until al dente. Drain through a colander
salt, as the cheese is already salty. 5. Pour sauce over the pasta. Top with the reserved Cheddar and green scallions.
or domestic Sauvignon
salami, apples
OF THIS RECIPE:
chutney,
FOR THE CHEESE , OUTSIDE
ADDITIONAL PAIRINGS
with a bit more freshly chopped scallion if desired.
Bake for 25 minutes. Allow the dish to cool for 5 minutes before serving, then garnish
completely melted. Season with more salt and pepper to taste. Be careful with the Valley red blend, European Blanc, dry Riesling
most of the cheese to the sauce—reserve a handful or so for topping—and stir until Syrah, a good Rhône
along the back of the spoon should leave a clear swath. Remove from heat and add
until the sauce thickens enough to evenly coat the back of a spoon—a finger drawn
about 3 minutes. Slowly add the milk, chipotle peppers, and cumin, stirring constantly
roux begins to take on a light brown color, scraping the bottom to prevent burning,
medium flame. Add the flour and stir with a flat-edge wooden paddle just until the
of the pan, turn off the heat. Place the butter in a medium saucepan and melt over
heat. As soon as the milk starts to steam and tiny bubbles form around the edges
4. To prepare the mornay sauce, heat the milk in a small saucepan over medium
dish. Toss together the pasta, chorizo, and Cotija in the baking dish.
3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter a 9-inch-square or similar-sized baking
WINE PAIRINGS: Grenache,
hard, well-aged Cheddar
Bandaged Cheddar, or any
Goat Cheddar, Fiscalini
Avalanche’s Clothbound
Montgomery’s Cheddar,
ALTERNATIVE CHEESES:
Two scallions, green parts only, minced
Freshly ground black pepper
Sea salt
and set aside.
10 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with a paper towel to drain the excess grease.
pound, 2 ounces Lincolnshire Poacher, shredded, divided
1
the olive oil in a pan over medium heat and cook the chorizo until well browned, about
V teaspoon cumin
½ teaspoon ground chipotle peppers
tablespoons butter tablespoons flour
2
1½ cups whole milk
4
12 ounces penne rigate
teaspoon olive oil
culinary world, but this dish is a delightful exception. Fiery chorizo is balanced unusually well by Lincolnshire Poacher’s mellow, complex, and slightly grassy flavors. This cheese, produced by Simon and Tim Jones at their farm at Ulceby Grange, adjacent to the Lincolnshire Wolds in England, is a particular favorite among milder Cheddars. We’ve added a touch of salty Cotija, a hard cow’s-milk cheese that’s named after a town in Michoacán, Mexico. Cotija is moist, granular, and delightfully salty, so be sure not to oversalt your mornay sauce.
½ pound (2 large links) fresh Mexican chorizo 1
PERHAPS IT’S R ARE TO FIND ENGL AND AND ME XICO SHARING COMMON GROUND IN THE
SERVES 4 TO 6
LINCOLNSHIRE POACHER WITH COTIJA, CHORIZO, AND PENNE
MACARONI AND CHEESE, THE AMERICAN CLASSIC, REINVENTED WITH ARTISANAL CHEESES, AN ARRAY OF PASTAS, AND DAZZLING FLAVOR COMBINATIONS “The classic comfort food we all grew up loving is turned upside down, inside out, and made more decadent than I ever imagined it could be. . . . Ardent mac-and-cheese enthusiasts, look no further than these gorgeous pages!â€? —Ree Drummond, #1 New York Times bestselling author of The Pioneer Woman Cooks “Using ďŹ ne cheeses from everywhere, pasta familiar and not so, imagination, and more than a touch of whimsy, Stephanie and Garrett have created modern, sophisticated, beautiful food that satisďŹ es the way the old mac and cheese did. It’s almost a feat of magic.â€? —Dorie Greenspan, author of Around My French Table Melt: The Art of Macaroni and Cheese is the ďŹ rst book to marry the American favorite with handcrafted artisanal cheeses and a wide array of pastas, producing dishes that are both classic and chic. Home cooks from beginners to practiced hands will be encouraged to incorporate fresh, simple ingredients into the everyday comfort food they know and love. Featuring such unexpected and delicious combinations as Beecher’s Flagship Cheddar with Avocado, Lime, and Shell Pasta; Drunken Goat with Edamame, Fennel, and Rotini; and Pumpkin Stuffed with Fontina, Italian Sausage, and Macaroni, Melt takes mac and cheese out of the box and elevates it to a level that will delight even the most sophisticated palates. Melt also acts as a primer on cheese—how it’s made, the differences between cow, sheep, and goat’s milk cheeses, and how to select and shop for varieties that will satisfy and stimulate your palate. Recommended wine pairings accompany each recipe, along with alternative cheeses for every dish and additional serving suggestions for the cheeses featured. With gorgeous color photography throughout, Melt is a compendium of inventive recipes that will add a fresh twist to the family dinner or play a starring role at your next dinner party.
MARKETING AND PROMOTION 3(.- +Č™,#"( Č™! ,/ (%-ĆŚČ™(-!+4"(-%Č™/1(-3Č™ -"Č™.-+(-#Č™(-3#15(#62Č™ĆČ™ (%(3 +Č™, 1*#3(-%ÇŒ/4 +(!(38Č™ campaign, including features and reviews, specialized blog outreach, and downloadable excerpts ĆČ™ .!( +Č™-#36.1*Č™! ,/ (%-ĆŚČ™(-!+4"(-%Č™ !# ..*ĆŚČ™ 6(33#1ĆŚČ™ .."1# "2ĆŚČ™ -"Č™ '#+$ 1(Č™ ĆČ™ 1.22Lj/1.,.3(.-Č™.-Č™ #+3 ! 1.-(ĆĽ!., Stephanie Stiavetti is a writer, recipe developer, and culinary media maven residing in San Francisco. Her work has been featured on National Public Radio, Huffington Post, KQED, Culinate, and Serious Eats. You can ďŹ nd her online at TheCulinaryLife.com.
Garrett McCord is a freelance food writer, writing teacher, and recipe developer. You can ďŹ nd him at Vanilla Garlic.com. He lives in Sacramento, California, with his husband, Brian; their two needy cats; and a Corgi named Jack. Author photographs by Stephanie Stiavetti
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Copyright Š 2013 by Stephanie Stiavetti and Garrett McCord
THIS IS UNCORRECTED PROOF. NOT FOR SALE.