All About Stouts

Eastern Iowa’s stouts exceeded all my barliest expectations.

BY ANDREA TRUITT

It was Minneapolis, 2011 or 2012, when I first came upon Left Hand Brewing Company’s oh-so-fine Milk Stout and Nitro Milk Stout, and I have been in love since.

A stout is a dark ale made with roasted barley and hops, and it is the barley that imparts both color and coffee and chocolate notes. On average, they have a higher alcohol content than lagers, which are hopand malt-based. Variations include dry stout, imperial stout, milk stout, oatmeal stout and the eyebrow-raising oyster stout.

Lucky for stout fans like me, you can find every kind among Eastern Iowa breweries—yes, even an oyster stout. (Big Grove’s Creature Stout. Someone please try it because I am not brave enough.)

Many brewers have multiple stouts on offer throughout the year, most as limited releases, so check their websites for availability and cut loose. There are many good day-trip options if you want to get out and about. There are also plenty of at-home tasting options; most of the beers I tasted were available in cans that I bought from New Pioneer Food Coop and John’s Grocery.

As for some food pairing recommendations: Stouts go great with rich, cold-weather meals such as chili and barbecue. And no beer pairs more delightfully with a gooey chocolate chip cookie.

SINGLESPEED BREWING

Waterloo

Tip the Cow (6.2% ABV)

Limited Release: Tip the Cow Vanilla Bean (6.2% ABV)

Pro tip: Leave stouts out for about 15-20 minutes after pouring to let the flavor develop. The Sidecar Coffee espresso from Singlespeed was really upfront and mellowed after this waiting period. Tip the Cow is a fine, serviceable stout, but I want to focus on the vanilla bean version. It pairs well with barbecue, its sweetness balancing out the tanginess, and it’s kind of cute when paired with Iowa sweet corn (frozen from last year’s farmers market).

Singlespeed also has multiple flavors to try: toasted coconut, cocoa mint and Tip the Calf, a session (in other words, lower alcohol) stout. I tend to prefer simple flavors, so I remain skeptical of such flavor-packed stouts, but I won’t knock them until I try them.

Kalona Brewing Company

Kalona

Start-Up Stout Coffee Chocolate Stout (7.6% ABV)

I found this one to be the punchiest, even after letting it hang out. The coffee flavor, with beans from Café del Sol, was very forward, and combined with the alcohol content, it was a tad more than I bargained for. StartUp comes in pint-sized cans, so one might be all you need. It was loud, like a slap on the back, and it paired well with chili. If you’re into back-slapping gusto, then this is your stout.

LION BRIDGE BREWING COMPANY

Cedar Rapids

Olde 17 (4.8% ABV)

I learned something important with this one: that an Irish-style stout is drier, regarded as a “classic pub stout” among brewers at Lion Bridge, and makes a great session beer. Ultimately, I prefer boozier, creamier stouts, so Olde 17 felt a tad bitter for me. However, that’s no insult to this beer; if you want a stout that you can drink continually at a gathering, or sit at Lion Bridge with friends and roll through a few, this is a great choice. It is made for social drinking experiences. The roasted grain and dark chocolate hints came through most prominently for me. Their other limited-release (much boozier) stouts include two imperials, a milk stout and a macaroon stout, so Cedar Rapids has something for every stout lover.

MILLSTREAM BREWING CO.

Amana

Back Road Oatmeal Stout

(6.7% ABV)

This was my favorite by far, and it’s cute. “Cute” does not mean shallow or sickeningly sweet; “cute” means substance with charm. It’s boozy but soft with a round, creamy mouthfeel. The roasted flavors don’t slap you in the face, but its sweetness isn’t gimmicky. It’s just solid, friendly and tasty. Back Road is like a really good hug: firm and sincere with some give. This is not a session stout, so you want to take it slow, or you can get a satisfying buzz going relatively quickly. As the tasting notes state, “If you like thick, full-bodied and smooth stout, this beer is for you!”

BIG GROVE BREWERY

Solon, Iowa City, Des Moines

Nitro Irish Dry Stout (4.3% ABV)

Richard the Whale Coffee Russian Imperial Stout (12.2% ABV)

It was 50+ degrees when I headed over to Big Grove Iowa City, and it was my lucky day on two fronts: I sat outside basking in sunlight, and I was able to partake of two stouts. I sampled the Nitro Dry Irish Stout which had a nice mineral finish that, in combination with the nitro, had a light seltzer feel, making it softer than Olde 17.

I also tried their imperial stout, Richard the Whale. This Kentucky-born beer drinker tasted those bourbon-barrel notes and felt that distinct bourbon warmth that hits the tongue, which, in combination with its light syrup sweetness, brought a smile to my face. According to my server, Richard usually makes an appearance in December and sells quickly, but I was able to get it in mid-March due to Big Grove Iowa City’s sixth anniversary. Lucky me.

BENT RIVER BREWING COMPANY

Moline

Rock Island Oatmeal Stout (6.4% ABV)

First, a shout-out to John’s Grocery and its efficient staff for ordering a Quad Cities beer for me. I called on a Tuesday asking if they had anything in stock, was told they could order it, and on Thursday, they called and told me it would be in on Friday. It was with this stout that I realized that oatmeal stouts are my favorite variety. It’s solid and smooth, with the lipids from the oats adding viscosity and sweetness.

GUIDE