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menu THE DAILY POST FOOD & DRINK GUIDE August 2010

It’s High Glass

Best of British cocktails from city’s newest sommelier SUMMER WINES TOP TAPAS POP UP COOKING

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

chef’s table

Christinadrinkstosuccess JadeWrightmeets Panoramic’snew sommelier,and samplesthenew Englishartisan cocktailmenu

IME was, not all that long ago, when it was standard practice for the sommelier to hand the wine menu to the man at the table. Then, even if a woman made the order, more likely the bottle would still be brought for him to inspect and taste. Thankfully, those days seem to have come to an end, as restaurants have picked up on the fact that women are every bit as knowledgeable about wine as their male dining companions, and are just as likely to be paying the bill at the end of the meal. But, when it comes to the sommelier, it’s still fairly unusual to see a woman wielding the wine list. So, when we heard that Panoramic had employed a dynamic young woman to help its diners choose and appreciate the perfect drinks to enjoy with their meals, we had to find out more. Christina Holzer was trained by Southport chef Marcus Wareing, and now she is bringing her wineselecting talents to the UK’s highest restaurant, as she joins as head waiter and sommelier. Christina began work in hospitality in Cocoon Restaurants, in London, and the capital’s Café des Amis, after apprenticeship in Switzerland, before joining Pétrus in 2007. The restaurant, then owned by Gordon Ramsey, gained two Michelin stars under Marcus Wareing’s charge in the kitchen. Last year, she left the front line of hospitality to join Friarwood Fine Wines, boosting her experience of wine buying, attending tastings and finding new wines suitable for the company’s market. “Many restaurants neglect the wine list, leaving it the same for several years,” says Christina. “It should change as frequently as your menu does, with the seasons, and it’s important to keep up with trends.” Christina and her partner are both in the city’s hospitality sector – her boyfriend Girish Gopalakrishnan is head chef at Sakura, in Exchange Flags. She says she was attracted by the ambition of the city’s food and drink sector. “Taking over the wine list at Panoramic is exciting,” she says. “The level of service, the food, it stands above other venues.” Christina’s appointment means she will take over responsibility for the wine list from restaurant manager Oliver Hawthorne, formerly of Claridges. But, as well as wine, she’ll also be advising customers on the pick of the cocktail menu. Now, working with Oliver, her first challenge has been to create a new

A good wine list should change as frequently as your menu does – Christina Holzer, Panoramic’s head waiter and sommelier

BestofBritishcocktails Gin and Elderflower Mojito Ingredients

Ingredients

50ml William Chase Gin 15 ml Elderflower liqueur 10 Mint leaves 10ml Sugar syrup 20 ml Lime juice Method Put sugar, lime and mint in the glass. Slightly bruise – mix or muddle together at the bottom of the glass. Half fill the glass with crushed ice. Pour over the double shot of gin. Mix together. Top with ice and drizzle elderflower liqueur

cocktail menu, and it’s all been inspired by flavours of England. The cocktails are the fruition of a new partnership with Hertfordshire distillery Chase, whose vodka was recently voted the best in the world and is also the world’s only potato vodka. Panoramic stocks the exclusive vodka, including its limited edition variations of Smoked and Marmalade Vodka, alongside William Chase gin. So, this summer, diners and drinkers in the restaurant’s bar can sample Chasing Bubbles, an English Lady

English Berries

on top. Top tip, to layer like a pro, pour the cream onto the back of a teaspoon.

10 ml raspberry liqueur 10ml blackberry liqueur 20 ml butterscotch liqueur 15 ml maraschino cherry liqueur A good drizzle of cream

20ml of Cointreau 50ml Chase Marmalade Vodka 15ml of lemon juice

Method

Shake the ingredients together and fine strain into martini glass. Layer about 2mm of cream

Add to shaker and shake. Serve martini glass. To garnish, add orange peel or lemon peel.

Marmalade and the intriguing Chasing Smoke. “The English Lady Marmalade uses marmalade vodka,” explains Christina. “There were only 500 bottles produced, so it’s a special drink. We add Cointreau and lemon, serve it in a martini glass and it’s the most refreshing thing.” For something a little fruitier, Christina recommends the English Berries, with fresh raspberries and blackberries, raspberry liqueur, blackberry liqueur, maraschino and cream. “It takes the flavours of berries

English Lady Marmalade Ingredients

and cream, but gives it all a delicious twist,” says Christina. And no cocktail menu would be complete without a Mojito. Currently the most popular cocktail on the market, it’s normally associated with its native Cuba, but not with its Panoramic makeover: “We wanted to approach it in the same way chef Chris Marshall does in the kitchen with the food,” says Oliver. “Take the Mojito, for example, how do you make that English? Well, first of all we started with gin and added the mint and lime. It needed something a bit sweeter and richer to

lift the flavour so we added elderflower cordial.” Later this month, the restaurant is planning an English evening, celebrating the best of our national cuisine. “There is so much fantastic produce coming out of this country at the moment,” says Oliver. “Whether it’s food or drink, English producers are world class, and we wanted to find a way to celebrate that.” ■ PANORAMIC Restaurant and Bar, 0151 236 5534, www. panoramicliverpool.com

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

chef’s table

Whywe’reshowingthatev JadeWrightmeetsthesocialentrepreneur temptingMerseysidefamiliesbackintheir kitchens,withonedeliciousmealatatime

OBBIE DAVISON is a man on a mission. Together with a team of chefs, he’s working to wrestle the take-away menu and ready meal packets out of Merseysiders’ hands, and in their place to teach people the skills to make delicious meals at a fraction of the price. “I heard a horrible statistic that 60% of adults don’t cook,” explains Robbie, from Speke. “That’s not that they don’t know how to cook, some of them do. But for one reason or another, they just don’t. “But with the increasing price of food, and people getting interested in programmes like Come Dine With Me and Masterchef, it seemed that there was a real need for a cookery school that would teach people that there is an alternative to takeaways and ready meals.” It inspired Robbie, who had spent his career in social enterprises, to set up Can Cook. Now a 20-place professional cookery school in the Match works, Speke, it was launched last year with public funding to offer inspir-

Chilli Squid Linguine

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Can Cook’s tasty Bang Bang Chicken Salad

ation and basic lessons to encourage young people and parents to cook for themselves and stay healthy. Now the cookery school has been opened to all – individuals, couples, corporate groups from 18 to 80, and sprinkled with culinary magic. They can sign up for an evening, a full day or a weekend. Themes include basic A-Z cookery techniques, vegetarian, Thai, Indian, Northern Greats and many more. And, as well as the school, Robbie is bringing the Studio to the public. Can Cook has launched a pop-up kitchen, situated in the former Animal shop, on Bold Street, open for six weeks in partnership with Liverpool City Council’s Shops Upfront initiative. “We wanted to bring it into town so that everyone could try it,” explains Robbie. The pop-up kitchen houses eight cookery stations, as well as a chef ’s demonstration area. Featuring daily live demonstrations from Can Cook’s resident chefs, Tony, Richie and Alex, the pop-up kitchen is offering free 30 minute cookery sessions to budding Masterchefs, where anyone can cook along with the chefs before enjoying what they’ve whipped up. With dishes including Thai green curry, courgette risotto, or chicken and lentil curry, the chefs are offering all the know-how you need to get cooking at home with confidence. “There’s something really exciting about getting people cooking,” smiles Robbie. “The idea of cooking together is so closely linked to eating together, which is so important. There’s something fantastic about a group of people sitting down around a table and sharing a meal together.” Can Cook will be placing their Can Cook Domes at food festivals around Merseyside, so wherever you get peckish, they’re never far away . . . Can Cook, www.cancook.co.uk, 0151 650 6444. Text COOK to 60777.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

veryonecancook

cupboard love THIS tiffin box is perfect for keeping your picnic goodies apart. Made from hard-wearing melamine, the four sections clamp together, making the box easy to carry on long country walks. And, once the sun goes in and we say goodbye to picnics for another year, it’s a great storage kit for the kitchen. Priced £20 at www.johnlewis.com SODASTREAM is back and the drinks company has linked up with designer Karim Rashid to create this limited addition machine. Whether you're thirsty for a fruity adventure or a mojito, SodaStream will be the centre of attention at summer parties when you start lining up the glasses. Limited edition Karim Rashid SodaStream machine, £69.95, and a selection of delicious and natural flavours, from £4.95 each. From Harvey Nichols.

Robbie Davison Can Cook’s director prepares a dish; and, inset, a tasty portion of Dim Sum that you could learn to cook yourself

IN CELEBRATION of summer, Pimm’s have teamed up with top designer Jan Constantine to create a series of exclusive limited edition jug sets. The sets, which include an elegant glass pitcher and four glasses, are all etched with the “Proud to be British” emblem and are available at www.janconstantine.com/ pimms priced £49.99.

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BLUSH WINE & COCKTAIL BAR

(Serves two as a main course or four as a starter) Ingredients: 2 skinless chicken breasts 1 tbls soy sauce 1 chilli 200g peanut butter 4 tbls sweet chilli sauce 4 tbls sesame oil 2 tbls vegetable oil 1 tsp chilli oil 1 baby gem lettuce, shredded 1 carrot, finely cut 3 spring onions, sliced 1 red onion, finely sliced 50g beansprouts 2 tbls olive oil Juice of one lime 2 tbls coriander

Method Put the chicken, soy sauce and half of the chopped chilli into a saucepan. Cover with cold water and bring to the boil and simmer for 5-10 minutes until the chicken is cooked through. Take off the heat and leave to cool for 10 minutes. To make the sauce, place the peanut butter, sweet chilli, sesame, vegetable oil and chilli oil in a bowl and whisk until fully mixed. To make the salad, add the baby gem, carrot, spring onion, red onion and the beansprouts in a bowl and mix with olive oil and lime. When the chicken is cool, slice it thinly, place on top of the salad, pour over the sauce and serve.

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Tuesday, August 10, 2010

eating out

Fabulousfoodontapas

MichelleFiddler givesherverdicton thenewSalthouse CharcuterieandTapas bar,inLiverpoolOne

HOOSING to open a new restaurant in Liverpool is not a decision anyone would take lightly. The city already has a number of well-established eating establishments, an increasing amount of popular chain restaurants, a handful of independent eateries and ever more frequent food places that have a celebrity endorsement. As a city centre resident and seasoned restaurant diner, I watched with great anticipation as workmen started converting the former residence of the Bishop of Liverpool, on the corner of Hanover Street, into what I was convinced would be another restaurant. The adjoining property is already home to a successful French bistro and just along the same row of buildings a certain TV chef has put his name to another city diner. The Salthouse Charcuterie and Tapas bar has now become the latest addition to the family, and one which lends itself to a whole new genre of restaurant – the urban tapas bar. Roughly translated – and according to the restaurant's website – it means an establishment run by "an English team who can’t speak Spanish but love everything about the lifestyle and food of Spain". Plainly speaking, that means you won't find flamenco dancers, Spanish music or candles in wine bottles, but what you will be offered is a decent selection of Spanish food and wine in pleasant, comfortable surroundings. My partner and I visited the restaurant on an unseasonably damp and miserable Monday evening. As it was already after 9pm, only two other tables were taken by couples, although both departed soon after we arrived. I am not usually a big fan of dining in empty restaurants but, despite the size, I didn't feel uncomfortable, thanks mainly to the cosy decor and friendly and attentive staff. The building has been sympathetically converted with cool white walls, large windows, bench seats with colourful cushions, contemporary black and white photographs incorporating city views on the walls and cosy candles on the tables. My partner and I were seated at a table for two, although the waitress was happy to extend our table to accommodate what eventually became a substantial food order. As seasoned tapas fans, we actually struggled between the extensive menu which included cured meats, fish and seafood, vegetarian dishes, salads and breads. Eventually, we whittled our order down to include a number of our favourite tapas dishes and others which simply caught our eye. My partner chose the pan fried

Dining out Salt House Charcuterie and Tapas Bar Hanover Street, Liverpool, L1 3DW 0151 706 0092 www.salthousetapas.co.uk Interior: Cool and contemporary with mezzanine floor and open kitchen. Service: Friendly and efficient without being intrusive Disabled access: Yes Value: Prices to suit most pockets with a good value lunch menu.

The cool and tasteful surroundings of the Salt House Charcuterie and Tapas bar; and, inset, the outside of the building Pictures: ANDREW TEEBAY seabass with samphire, shallots and mushrooms (£5.90). The beauty of tapas is that sharing food is part and parcel of the experience, and we both agreed the two small fillets of seabass were perfectly cooked, fleshy on one side and crispy on the other. The samphire added a salty crunch while the mushrooms and shallots were an unusual but welcoming accompaniment. My first choice was the crispy fried calmari, with lemon and alioli (£3.95). I am a huge fan of seafood but sadly I am often disappointed by overcooked, tough calamari or sparse batter which often renders the dish completely unpalatable. I am pleased to say on this

Spanish food and wine in pleasant, comfortable surroundings

occasion that wasn't the case. Instead, we received a dish of perfectly cooked sliced calamari rings, which were in a light batter and accompanied by a dish of strong but tasty alioli. Our other choices included the traditional fried potatoes with bravas sauce (£3.50) – a substantial dish of chunky potatoes in a tomato sauce which my partner agreed would have benefited from extra heat and spice in the sauce; meatballs in a spiced tomato sauce (£5.00); Iberian ham croquettes (£5.50) – beautiful pieces of ham and fluffy potato in breadcrumbs and Moorish pork kebabs with coriander yoghurt and tomato salsa (£5.50). The dishes arrived at suitable intervals, and were all hot and freshly made. To complement our tapas dishes, we chose an apple, walnut, rocket

and goats curd salad with Chardonnay dressing (£4.50) which was fresh, light and tasty and two versions of the bread – Libby's toast with olive oil and PX vinegar (£2.80) and Libby's toast with tomato (£2.40). To accompany our meal, we chose a bottle of red Tempranillo which, as it happened, was the house wine and a very reasonable £13.25. We also asked for a jug of tap water which the restaurant was happy to supply for a small donation to Alder Hey Children’s Hospital. I don't often select desserts, but out of sheer curiosity made an exception. I chose the Churros doughnuts with hot dipping chocolate (£4.55) and this was my only slight disappointment of the evening. While the churros were hot, crispy and sweet and the dipping chocolate deliciously indulgent, I felt the price

Bill: For two with a bottle of wine – £64

was a little excessive for the portion size. My partner, on the other hand, chose the melon and mint with lemon sorbet (£3.95) and what a surprise it was. I must admit that my experience of sorbet is only as a palate cleanser between courses. But the dish that arrived – chilled melon balls topped with bitter sweet sorbet – was cool and tongue tingling and a perfect contrast to the deep flavours of the tapas. To round off the meal, we had a black coffee and a latte and, although the kitchen had closed down for the evening, we felt in no way rushed by the staff. Salt House Tapas has certainly tapped into a niche market, and by offering an extensive menu, as well as a very reasonable lunchtime menu, has definitely been pencilled in for a return visit.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

the wine list

Max out with minis

N MY little black book of drinks . . . picnics, garden parties and casual cook-outs are a fusion of one magical ingredient – a refreshing bottle for everyday drinking that's food-friendly and engaging. When it comes to catering to a myriad of tastes, one of the joys of the moveable feast, which the Victorians were so fond of, is the chilled contribution. Our family and friends can always be relied upon to add some colour to the landscape with their hand-picked label. Mind, it won't be their favourite tipple (picnics are for sharing!), but it should certainly be light and quaffable enough to suit finger food, cold meats and salad or grilled sausages. Ahead of National Picnic Week (August 9 to August 15) here are some suggestions which should find a place in your wicker basket and grace the picnic blanket – fingers crossed that the sun shines. Mini bottles are perfect for outdoor excursions, especially these new offerings from Marks & Spencer, which come in eco-friendly plastic and will fill two glasses. With 19 styles to choose from, including favourites such as Garganega Pinot Grigio 2009 (£2.49, 25cl, M&S), Las Falleras Rose 2009 (£1.99, 25cl, M&S) and Alta Mira Cabernet Sauvignon (£2.49, 25cl, M&S), they're a must-have for intrepid drinkers.

Posh picnics and prosecco go hand in glass. Try my favourite, Asda Extra Special Prosecco (£7.28, Asda) which is one of the best supermarket fizzes to come out of Veneto. Fragrant with peachy notes, these delicate bubbles are crisp and fresh with a soft, creamy mousse and an ideal aperitif before the sandwiches and crisps arrive. If poached salmon or chicken drumsticks are placed on the sharing table, the tropical fruits of a Chardonnay make a perfect partner. Try Wakefield Estate Chardonnay 2008 (£6.99 from £8.99, Majestic until end of August) from the Clare Valley, Australia. Rich, pineappley with a clean, long finish, it's a sumptuous glass that's also delicious with fish pie – should rain be forecast. New to our shores, boutique New Zealand winemaker Vinultra has launched a limited edition range of wines – the 2008 vintage made its debut last year in some of the UK's top restaurants and the 2009 variety is now available to purchase online. From the famous Marlborough region, try Little Beauty Sauvignon Blanc (£10.99, www. littlebeauty.co.nz) for a zesty, mouth watering glass that's ripe with gooseberry and terrific with shellfish, goat's cheese and tomato

best bar none

salads. A charcuterie board with meats from your local deli is a winning ingredient for al fresco dining. For the perfect pairing with salami or spicy sausage, try Louis Jadot Beaujolais Villages 2009 (£9.09, Tesco). Served chilled, this new release from Burgundy is a fruity red with a grip of juiciness, delicate red cherry flavours and a hint of spice. Big celebrations call for big cartons . . . rock up with the brilliant Hardys Nottage Hill FreshCase Chardonnay 2008 (£19.99, Sainsbury's) and your mates can enjoy the equivalent of three bottles of wine (2.25l). The eco-friendly FreshCase box stays fresh for up to six weeks and it fits snuggly in the fridge. With signature fruitiness and aromas of melon, this lightly oaked chard is a no-brainer in the great outdoors.

SAM WYLIE-HARRIS

CALLED TO THE BAA: One of Liverpool’s best loved-bar names is now pulling them in on Myrtle Street AFTER The Varsity, The Symphony and Geisha came and went, the safe hands of Liverpool favourite Baa Bar are now at work on Myrtle Street. Focusing on a student crowd seems a surefire way to bring punters back in and, although it isn’t strictly a student-only bar, they do love it. Prices are impressively low – Fosters, VS and Strongbow go for £1.50 before 8pm on Friday and Saturday, Kronenbourg, Grolsch and Red Square for £2 (same restrictions) and Becks, Coors and Stella are £2.50. The real fun, though, is to be had with the shooters, all £1 a

time, and the Baby Guinness and Baa Bakewell (peach schnapps, amaretto, strawberry) go down a treat. Jaggerbombs (£3) – a shot of Jagermeister dunked in the glass of Red Bull – are like the proverbial rocket fuel. For the 18-25 crowd, Baa Bar fits the bill. Everybody's in large groups, it's not really a couples sort of place. Funk is on Friday, soul on Sundays, and if you need food to go with your drink, Wokit whips up fast oriental dishes all day and long into the night. ■ BAA Bar, Myrtle Street, L7 0151-709 7966

Restaurant

Contemporary Eastern & Indian Cuisine

Table d’ Hote £12.50 per person

Any Starter, Any Main & Tea Or Coffee To Finish Available Monday – Friday 5.30 – 8.30 Saturday 5.30 – 6.30 & Sunday 3.00 – 8.30

Now 50% Off Menu Prices On Takeaways

Order Online at www.nabisrestaurant.co.uk Or by phone 01744 751352 Curry Club Last Wednesday Of Every Month £12.50pp Bookings Only – Phone Us For Details! East Lancashire Road, Windle, St Helens, Merseyside WA10 6QY Tel: 01744 751352 Fax: 01744 755531 Mobile: 07711 354779 Website: www.nabisrestaurant.co.uk Email: nabisrestaurant@hotmail.co.uk Opening Hours: Monday – Thursday 5.30pm – 10.00pm Friday & Saturday 5.30pm – 10.30pm Sunday 3.00pm – 8.30pm

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

RESTAURANT & BAR

The height of Summer

Three course lunch from £19.50 seven days a week. Summer Tasting Menu £80 for two people. £100 for two people including wine. Monday to Thursday - August only.

EXCLUSIVE OFFERS WITH A REFERESHING TWIST

English Cocktail Menu from £10.50 - enjoy our quintessential English cocktails with a modern twist. Seven days a week.

The UKʼs highest restaurant, serving ﬁne food and drink that is never to be overlooked; welcome to Panoramic Restaurant and Bar.

English Evening a celebration of English food, wine and excellence in late summer.

P A N O R A M I C L I V E R P O O L . C O M | T H E H E I G H T O F G O O D TA S T E

FOR RESERVATIONS CALL 0151 236 5534 OR EMAIL INFO@PANORAMICLIVERPOOL.COM