menu THE DAILY POST FOOD & DRINK GUIDE APRIL 2010
Grand day out
The foodie treats in store for racing fans at Aintree MARY McCARTNEY SOMMELIER FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL
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Tuesday, April 6, 2010
chef’s table
menu
Understarter’sorders
EmmaJohnson meets themantasked withfeeding 150,000 racegoers atthe Grand National
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ICHARD BUSFIELD is about to face his busiest three days of the year. As Aintree racecourse’s regional executive chef, it is up to him to make sure some 150,000 race-goers are fed and watered throughout the John Smith’s Grand National meeting. Last year, a team of 106 chefs provided 11,500 covers over the threeday event – this year, that figure is expected to rise to a staggering 16,000. Visitors definitely won’t go hungry or thirsty during the prestigious event, as guests will work their way through more than 200,000 pints of lager, 210 boxes of mushrooms, 42,000 shots of vodka and 7,000 miniature doughnuts. This will be Richard’s 12th consecutive year making sure food is of the highest standard at Aintree racecourse. Before coming to Aintree, he worked at sporting venues including Headingley cricket ground, Everton football club, the Cheltenham Festival and Royal Ascot. He also owned his own restaurant in Calderdale, West Yorkshire. Richard and his staff spend six months devising the menu for every area of the racecourse – from corporate hospitality to the fast food on offer in the Tattersalls Enclosure. “The emphasis is very much on local produce, with all dishes freshly prepared on site,” says Richard, 52. “For example, the mushrooms in our soup are sourced from Ormskirk, the chicken is from Shropshire and we are even growing the mint for the Pimms on site here at Aintree, along with other fresh herbs used in dishes.” As well as ensuring every race-goer enjoys quality food, Richard Busfield must also make
Chef Richard Busfield – ready for another Grand National meeting; and, inset, his speciality soup made with Ormskirk mushrooms
AintreebeefWellington INGREDIENTS (serves two) 6 – 7 oz fillet steak, two flat mushrooms, 2 oz mushrooms, chopped, half an onion, one clove garlic, one teaspoon of chicken liver paté, one sheet puff pastry, one egg, 1 oz parsley, green beans, vine cherry tomatoes, six chateau potatoes, salt and pepper METHOD 1. Peel flat mushroom,
one per person, and cook for about six minutes on 180 degrees with olive oil and seasoning, leave to cool. 2. Make mushroom duxelle by sweating onions, garlic and finely chopped mushrooms until all moisture is removed, season, cool and add chopped parsley. 3. Fill a flat mushroom with a spoonful of
sure people behind the scenes are not forgotten. This includes the police who provide crowd security and the world’s media reporting on the prestigious event. And, of course, the jockeys.
dinner date Who would you invite to your dream dinner party? I would invite my girlfriend and, if I could pick anyone, John Lennon, Ricky Gervais, right, Larry David, Salvatore Calabrese (creator of the Breakfast Martini), Dean
Kingprawn thermidor
duxelle; top with a slice of chicken liver paté, add on a disc of puff pastry and brush with egg. Bake in the oven for about 10 minutes at 180 degrees until golden. 4. Pan fry fillet steak and finish by cooking in oven on 180 degrees for about 10 minutes, (longer if well done) 5. Serve the flat mushroom combination
Richard says: “There is a lot of preparing for people behind the scenes, including those working in the stables and the weighing rooms who must have enough wholesome food to keep them going throughout the three days. ”
INGREDIENTS (serves four) ½ oz rice, 1 oz white crab meat, 2oz butter, four king prawns, tablespoon olive oil, half an onion, one clove garlic, one pint fish stock, ¼ pint of double cream, pinch of saffron, one teaspoon of English mustard, ½ oz parmesan, a pinch salt and a pinch pepper
on top of the steak, and accompany with potatoes, green beans and roast vine cherry tomatoes.
Here, Richard offers up a few delicious recipes for the dishes that racegoers can enjoy at the festival. ■ THE 2010 John Smith’s Grand National meeting runs from April 8-10. Tickets and hospitality can be bought at www.aintree.co.uk
METHOD 1. Cook rice until tender, sit in bottom of ramekin then add white crab meat. Sauté king prawns in olive oil and add to the ramekin. 2. In a separate pan, make sauce by sweating onions and garlic in butter, add fish stock and reduce by half. 3. Finish with double cream, saffron and English mustard and season. 4. Coat crab and prawns with sauce, sprinkle with shaved parmesan cheese and bake in oven for about 12 minutes on 160 degrees. Serve with fresh focaccia bread.
Alex Hannah, director of bar operations at The Noble House, on Brunswick Street
Martin and my brother. It certainly wouldn’t be a serious dinner party, though. Who would be your nightmare guest? The opera singer from the “Go Compare” advert or Janet Street Porter.
What would you all drink? We would start with Salvatore’s Breakfast Martini, which I love, so much so we have included it in The Noble House cocktail list. Then Duck Pond Pinot Noir, from Oregon (USA), a red wine from our
wine list, finishing with Ellis Island Manhattans. What would you serve? Drinks aside, I’m afraid I would have no choice, as my missus would be all over it. She is an incredible cook.
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Tuesday, April 6, 2010
chef’s table
Indulgeinthecreamofth Theregion’sbestchefswill bedivulging tradesecrets at Southport FoodFestival, reveals JadeWright
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Andy Gemmell, from Maxxium UK, mixes cocktails on board the Cocktail bus at the Southport Food and Drink Festival
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IME was when we were happy to watch celebrity chefs whisking up a masterpiece and take their word for just how delicious it was. But, thanks to the plethora of farmers’ markets, gourmet nights and tasting menus, we’re now looking for an altogether more hands-on approach when it comes to finding out more about food and drink. And that’s where Southport Food Festival comes in. The cream of Merseyside chefs will be giving their trade secrets on how to prepare local meat, dairy and veg to perfection. “We’re very fortunate to have such excellent local produce,” explains David Rimmer, chairman of the Southport restaurant association and owner of the Dining Rooms, on West Street. “There’s the vegetables from Hesketh Bank, Formby asparagus, excellent meat and seafood. “The festival celebrates the best of our local produce, and the expert chefs that Southport has to offer.” As well as local restaurateurs, chefs from farther afield and famous faces will be on hand to join in the celebrations. Simon Rimmer will be taking to the festival stage to share some of the delicious, creative, yet simple recipes that have made him a household name. Michelin-starred chef, author and TV star Aiden Byrne will be presenting some of his inspiring, fine dining dishes, and TV beer expert Pete Brown, will be hosting a beer talk and tasting, based around his new book Hops and Glory. This year, a fully operational demo kitchen in Town Hall gardens will host a non-stop programme of 45-minute demonstrations throughout the festival. Ten of the town’s best will be serving festival versions of their signature dishes over the four days, and best of all, each dish will only be £4 each – a restaurant experience at a take-away price. “This is our fourth year and it promises to be the most exciting yet,” says David. “Our fabulous £4 food court is a great place to sample some of the best dishes around for just £4.” There will also be a local producer’s market on Chapel Street, where the town’s farmers, retailers and food brands will be offering a chance to try and buy a wide variety of local fare including fudges, cheeses and ostrich burgers. For something more Continental, the Italian Market on the band stand on Lord Street is an authentic flavour of the Mediterranean, with a wide variety of delicious Italian produce from olive oil to pizza and sweets to wines. “The Italian market will be a real highlight,” says David. “Plus, we’ll have the specialist Continental markets on the rest of Lord Street, with a huge array of European producers and retailers.” If you fancy something a little sweeter, there’s Southport’s first Chocolate Festival. The nation’s best chocolatiers will descend on the town to offer mouth-watering morsels, and, for the more adventurous, there’s everything from chocolate beer to chilli chocolate, bacon chocolate and even chocolate pizza. Sarah Carter, from Sefton Metropolitan Borough Council, says: “We are very excited about this year's festival, which is now in its fourth year. We hope to welcome visitors from across the North West to our new events, which will be revealed soon. Of course, we
will be welcoming back the Local Producers Market and Southport ‘Live’ Theatre, plus plenty of special offers and events across the town.” As well as gourmet food, there will be the Spring Beer Festival, supported by The Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) and Barons Bar at The Scarisbrick, taking place in the Taste Marquee, as part of the Southport Food and Drink Festival Pavilion, in the Town Hall Gardens. Over the two days, the Taste Marquee will be brought alive with a host of regional and micro breweries including Liverpool Organic, Southport Brewery, George Wright, Cains and Allgates, all offering up their finest brews for you to try. Tickets for the event are £5, including £4 worth of beer tokens, plus free sampling opportunities and complimentary nibbles, courtesy of local baker Holland's Pies. Jason Meath, from The Scarisbrick Hotel, says: “The Southport Food and Drink Festival is a real opportunity for local chefs to showcase their talent in the Live Theatre. The young people in Southport really benefit in the skills and training, offered locally and supported by the festival.” ■ THE Southport Food and Drink Festival takes place from May 13-16. For details, see www.visitsouthport.com/foodanddrink
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menu
helocalcrop
cupboard love BRIGHTEN up your cooking with these Cakes Double Oven Gloves. Printed with images of gingerbread men, cup cakes and tarts, they are as pretty as they are useful. Find them at The Gifted Penguin (www.gifted penguin.co.uk), priced £10.50 IF A woman is going to carry a hip flask, then this is the one, with its cute deer and general pinkness. It’s by Wild & Wolf, priced £18, and you will find them at www.breeze.uk.com What drink you choose to put in it is entirely up to you.
Arnaud Nicolet and Benoit Lecouffe enjoying a coffee
Ambassador AwardWinning Chef from Fifty One The Promenade, Franz D'Aversa
IS THIS the perfect gift for a wine buff or what? A personalised bottle of sparkling wine, you can choose from a range of labels to suit any occasion with any name and message. Each bottle can be purchased on its own or as a case of six. Priced from £19.99 at www.gonedigging.co.uk
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Chef Ian Godfrey, from the Pizzeria Italia, at Ocean Plaza
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Call: 0845 143 0001or visit www.merseyshop.com
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Tuesday, April 6, 2010
menu
eating out
Putasmileontheirfaces Bakeacakefor charity withthis selection of celebrity recipes. JadeWright reports
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I’m very influenced by Mum’s cooking style – Mary McCartney with her father, Sir Paul
HERE’S nothing like a home-baked cake to put a smile on your face. Rich, sweet and deliciously comforting, it’s a real treat. And now Operation Smile is calling on Merseyside bakers to make a batch of delicious goodies for a good cause. Throughout the world, Operation Smile provides cleft lip and palate repair surgeries to children whose parents would not be able to afford surgery. Mary McCartney, renowned photographer and daughter of Sir Paul and Linda McCartney, is backing the campaign. “I’m very influenced by Mum’s cooking style – but I bake more, and I’ve refined it a bit. But recipes – Mum found it really hard to get them down
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Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s cookies for Bake a Smile week for her cookbooks – and if I do something good, I try to jot it in a book,” says Mary. In support of Bake a Smile Week, Mary has donated her delicious vanilla cup cake recipe. She’s been joined by chefs Annie Bell and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, who have also given their favourite recipes. Hugh is particularly proud of his chocolate chip cookies. “These chewy, vanilla-rich
treats are easy-peasy, taking no more than 10 minutes to make, and 10 to bake,” he says. “They’re ideal when people turn up unexpectedly for tea, they are also a mainstay of a rainy afternoon cooking sessions with the kids. No batch has ever been known to last till the next day.” The campaign is being promoted in primary schools across Merseyside, with pupils signing up to help raise the
vital funds needed to provide free cleft lip and palate operations for children in developing countries. Around 3m children are born with a cleft lip or cleft palate in developing countries each year, and often spend their lives hiding their faces and being ridiculed and ignored for the way they look, speak and eat because their parents cannot afford the cost of the 45-minute operation needed to help that child smile just like everyone else. Every primary school that pledges to take part will aim to raise £150 during Bake a Smile Week, which is all it takes to fund one cleft lip operation. Annie Bell is offering her support with her smiley chocolate traybake recipe. “This is my favourite recipe for school cake sales,” she explains. “It’s easy to transport (you can take it in its tin), cuts into lots of squares which means lots of money for Bake a Smile, and it’s good to hand over wrapped in a paper napkin to waiting fingers. Add to that, everyone loves chocolate, so I promise you it will sell.” ■ TO FIND out more, go to www.operationsmile.org.uk/ bakeasmile
Celebrity recipes MARY McCARTNEY’S Vanilla Cup Cakes (makes 16) Ingredients: 200g butter, 200g sugar, 3 eggs, 200g self raising flour, 1tsp vanilla essence, approx 3tbs milk Method: 1. Preheat the oven to 190°C 2. Cream together the butter and sugar, gradually mix in the eggs, then the flour and vanilla. Beat well, add the milk. 3. Spoon the mixture gently into cup cake cases. 4. Bake for 18-20 mins or until golden on top. Decorate as desired. Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall’s Ten-minute chocolate chip cookies (makes 14–16) Ingredients 125g unsalted butter, 100g caster sugar, 75g soft light brown sugar, 1 medium egg, lightly beaten, 2 teaspoons vanilla extract, 150g plain flour, teaspoon baking powder, A pinch of sea salt, 100g dark chocolate, chopped into smallish chunks (or use milk chocolate, if you prefer)
2. Put both sugars into a mixing bowl, pour in the melted butter and beat well with a wooden spoon. Beat in the egg and vanilla. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into the bowl and stir them in, then add the chocolate. You should have a pretty sloppy sort of mixture. 3. Dot heaped dessert spoonfuls of the mixture on to 2 baking sheets lined with baking parchment, leaving a good 4cm in between each one as they really spread out. Place in an oven preheated to 190°C/ Gas Mark 5 and bake for 8–10 minutes, until the cookies are turning pale golden brown. 4. Remove from the oven and leave on the baking sheets for a couple of minutes to firm up. Then carefully lift the baking parchment on to a wire rack and leave to cool completely. Inevitably, they will be eaten as soon as they are cool enough not to burn fingers. Annie Bell’s Smiley Chocolate Traybake Ingredients
Method:
75g cocoa, ¾ of a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda, four medium eggs, 370g light muscovado sugar, 180ml sunflower oil, 200g self-raising flour, sifted
1. Gently melt the butter in a small saucepan.
Icing ingredients
150g dark chocolate (about 50% cocoa), broken into pieces, 3 tbsp milk, Smarties or M&Ms Method 1. Whisk the cocoa with 200 ml boiling water in a medium-size bowl, whisk in the bicarbonate of soda and leave to cool for about 20 minutes. 2. Preheat the oven to 160°C fan oven/180°C electric oven/Gas Mark 4, and butter or oil a 23 x 30 x 4 cm traybake tin. 3. Whisk together the eggs, sugar and oil in a large bowl until smooth, then stir in the flour, and then the cocoa solution. 4. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 30-40 minutes until risen and firm, and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Run a knife around the edge of the cake and leave to cool. 5. Gently melt the chocolate with the milk in a bowl set over a pan with 2 cm of simmering water in it, stirring until smooth and using the back of a spoon or palette knife, coat the surface of the cake. 6. Decorate with a smile or smiles, and leave for a couple of hours to set. Cut into squares to serve, you should get about 20. This will keep well in an airtight container for several days.
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the wine list
menu
Sweet temptations
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F OVER-INDULGING in one too many Easter eggs hasn’t put you off sweet things for life, then here are some ideas for drinks to go with dessert. Currently in vogue, tequila is moving away from the shot and slammer spirit of old and evolving into something far more sophisticated. Try Patron XO Cafe (£30, 750ml, Waitrose) which is an unusual blend of ultra-premium tequila and the natural essence of fine coffee. Extremely smooth, it's delicious sipped on its own, makes an elegant dessert topping and can be used as a premium ingredient in a cocktail. If your dream ticket to foodie paradise is cake and cava, try the sherry-like Freixenet Malvasia, (£16.99, www.everywine.co.uk) made with malvasia grapes from the Pyrenees. A rich glass of fine golden bubbles with notes of raisins, toasted nuts and a hint of candied peel, it's beautifully balanced and delightful with Simnel cake, pastries and even creamy puds such as creme brulee. A slice of chocolate cake tastes even dreamier with a French dessert wine like Domaine Pouderoux Vendange Tardive 2002/3, Maury (£10.99, 50cl, Waitrose). Made from 100% grenache noir from old vines, this sweet-fruited red will also tantalise the taste-buds with a square of dark
chocolate. I always think desserts such as fruit pies are crying out for a dry rosé such as Saint-Mont, En a tradition rosé, 2008 (£7.49, Nicolas) from the heart of Gascony, southwest France. With powerful notes of strawberries and pomegranates, it's a classy pink to grace the table at Easter time. For a striking match with a fresh fruit salad, why not sin with zin and try a light Californian such as Fetzer White Zinfandel (£6.99, www.ocado.com). This medium-sweet rosé has aromas of crushed berries and spring flowers, but with enough crispness to make it an easy glugger at 10.5% alcohol. Dark chocolate lovers need a lip-smacking glass with great intensity and concentration that comes with a powerful Argentinian red. Try Zuccardi Fuzion Malbec Shiraz 2009 (£4.99, Waitrose) which is a vibrant, deep red that's
packed with silky black fruit and a perfect partner with flavoured dark chocolate bars (70% cocoa solids) and truffles. Or delight in the nutty qualities of a tawny port like Ten-Year-Old Quinta de Ventozelo (£19.95, 75cl, www.winegrapevine.co.uk). Medium-sweet with notes of treacle, hazlenut and fig, it's a moreish glass that will transport you to their magnificent vineyards, high above the Douro River. Naughty moments shared with a slice of Italian pannetone or Parisian-style macaroons will taste even more wicked if you reach for a brandy glass. Try Remy Martin Coeur de Cognac (£37.99, 70cl, selected Sainsbury's & Tesco) which is blended for fruitiness rather than ageing. Silky smooth with notes of apricot, vanilla and honey, it's a stylish alternative to traditional spirits and can be enjoyed neat, or on the rocks. Let's drink to a sweet ending.
best bar none
A great stop for cocktails and indie music – Tribeca TRIBECA launched in early January, taking the place of the Indian restaurant, Shere Khan, and, from Berry Street, looks like a relaxed, but unpretentious place to drink, with its cool neon sign outside. Similar to The Metropolitan next door, it has a large central area surrounded by a collection of leather-seated booths, with more room upstairs. The bar also doubles as a pizzeria, whizzing them out of the oven at a very attractive price of £5, cooked in full sight in an open-walled kitchen at the back of the bar. Retro is the design vibe, with framed Rolling Stone magazine covers adorning the walls and
Cabaret Events for 2010 A delicious 3-course meal followed by an evening of entertainment 15th May Night of Stars Tribute to Robbie Williams and George Michael 12th June Million Dollar Quartet Tribute to Elvis, Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins and Johnny Cash 3rd July The Laughter Pack Starring Micky Finn, Hal Nolan, Eddie Archer 7th August Rock’n’Roll MB and The Sunrockers, GI Jive
Britannia Adelphi Hotel 0151 709 7200
Eat in Liverpool’s hidden gem
Compton’s Restaurant
Table d’hote Menu Choice of 3 starters 3 Main Courses Sweet Trolley Book before 7pm – £10 per person
10th September Tribute to the Boy Bands Tribute to Robbie Williams and Ronan Keating 16th October Give Peace a Chance Celebrating the Music and 70th Birthday of John Lennon 20th November This is Soul 10th December Merseybeat and Laughter Merseybeat Masters and Bobby Kaye 4th, 11th, 17th & 18th December We are holding a Motown Party featuring tributes to jackson Five, The Temptations, The Supremes, Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye, Tammy Terrell, Jimmy Ruffin The price is £32.50 and includes a 3-course dinner
indie music the order of the day, making it something akin to the newly-opened Low on Lark Lane. One of the impressive features of Tribeca is its drinks menu, with draught beer priced £2.80-£3.20 and most bottled beer under £3. But it’s with the spirits and cocktails that this bar comes into its own. Twenty different types of rum are on offer, with 12 bourbons, six gins and 10 whiskies, along with 10 vodkas, including thunder toffee and ultimate chocolate vanilla. ■ TRIBECA, Berry Street, Liverpool city centre, tel 0151 707 2528
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