menu THE DAILY POST FOOD & DRINK GUIDE February 2010
The food of love Dining out with your Valentine
THE NOBLE HOUSE WINE LIST HILTON HOTEL READER OFFER
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Tuesday, February 9, 2010
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Tuesday, February 9, 2010
chef’s table
menu
DaPiero–simplythebest JadeWrightmeets theWirralfamily behindDaPiero,the GoodFoodGuide’s bestnewrestaurant
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HEN Piero Di Bella opened the letter to say his restaurant had won the Best New Entry in the Good Food Guide 2010 he was understandably delighted. He was overjoyed that the judges had voted his 14-seat restaurant in Irby the best new entry in Wirral, or maybe even Merseyside. It wasn’t until he called the world-renowned guide that he realised that it wasn’t a local award, or a North West one. Da Piero had been judged best new entry in the whole of the UK. Now the unostentatious eaterie, run by husband and wife team Piero and Dawn, is busier than ever. And hot on the heels of the Which accolade, Da Piero has just been included in the Michelin Guide 2010, with two knives and forks in the grade and praise heaped upon its “Classical Italian cooking with lots of rustic Sicilian dishes”. It is fitting reward for one of the brightest stars of the Merseyside restaurant world. “It has been a wonderful surprise for us,” smiles Sicilian-born Piero. “We have very loyal customers here, the restaurant feels like an extension to our family, and that is blessing enough. But to have this kind of recognition, well, that is something we never expected.” Since the guides were released, the restaurant has been inundated with bookings. “Last weekend, we had to turn 40 people away,” says Dawn. “We used to say booking was advisable, but now it is essential.” She leafs through her reservations book. “Weekends are busy, but if people are flexible about times and days we can usually work something out.” But between new customers from the guide and their loyal regulars, the restaurant is busier than ever, during what is often a quiet time for the catering industry. So what is Da Piero’s secret? “For me, it’s all about simplicity,” explains Piero. “But simplicity doesn’t mean easy. It means having respect for flavour and not throwing everything in together. Good cooking doesn’t need dozens of things thrown into a pan, it
Chef Piero Di Bella and Dawn Di Bella at Da Piero in Irby; and, inset, making the Salsiccia Siciliana Pictures: JAMES MALONEY/ jm040210food-6, above, and jm040210food-4
needs three or four really good quality ingredients. “Quality is everything. If you put the freshest and the best into a dish, it will taste good, if you cut corners it will not.
“Take a good olive oil. That flavour is so good, you don’t want to mix it with anything. A friend of mine sent me a bottle of my favourite olive oil from Sicily last week. On my day off I had that with some bread, some tomatoes and a glass of red wine. That’s a meal. When ingredients are that good, you don’t need anything else.” Piero credits his love of food to growing up in Sicily. “There is a market at home with 500 stalls, there is every type of fish that you would find in the Mediterranean. And they are so fresh we call them the dancing fish. They are still jumping. “My mother was an excellent cook, and she had me making ravioli when I was eight. She has been my inspiration.” Piero’s prized possession is his mother’s cook book, inscribed with notes on every recipe. “It was a present from her mother
in 1945, the year my mother married. Some of those recipes are 300 years old. Those are the recipes I use here, and the ones we eat at home.” As I talk to Piero, he is busy making Salsiccia Siciliana – Sicilian style sausage (£14.50). Rather than buying in mince, he buys a whole shoulder cut of top quality pork and minces it himself, then mixes it with his own blend of herbs and spices and puts each sausage into a natural skin. “I’ll give you a tip,” smiles Piero. “The skins have to be soaked in Pinot Grigio to give them the best flavour. Never use cheap wine. Only cook with wine you would want to drink.” He serves them on a bed of lentils, imported directly from Colfiorito, in Umbria. Nothing, it seems, is too much trouble. Similarly, their Gelato all’Amaretto (£5.20) is homemade using free-range organic eggs and original Amaretto Disaronno, with fresh cream. “People are surprised that we use real Amaretto,” laughs Dawn. “But surely if you want something to taste of Amaretto, you use Amaretto, and if you use an artificial flavour it tastes of artificial flavour.” And, in keeping with the romantic
theme of our Valentine’s special, Da Piero is built on its own love story. “I’m originally from Wirral, but I went to spend six months in Italy,” laughs Dawn. “I ended up staying for 20 years, and brought Piero back with me. We met and lived in Rome, but when we had our son, Alan, we wanted to bring him up here.” The couple moved to Wirral and Piero fell in love with its rugged countryside and superb local produce, but it wasn’t until Dawn was made redundant that their dream of opening their own restaurant became a reality. “I came home, devastated to have lost my job, but Piero was overjoyed,” says Dawn. “Looking back, it was the best thing that could have happened.” They opened Da Piero four years ago, and now their son Alan, 17, works as their sous chef. He’s training with Brian Mellor and is quickly becoming a well-respected chef in his own right. “He has an instinctive hand for seasoning,” says Piero. “And that is the one think you can’t teach. everything else you can learn, but that is a real gift.” ■ DA PIERO, 5, Mill Hill Road, Irby, Wirral, CH61 4UB, 0151 648 7373, www.dapiero.co.uk.
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Tuesday, February 9, 2010
chef’s table
Servedwithagreatbigh L
Brian Mellor and his girlfriend, Irina, make a toast to Valentine's Day
OVE is in the air over at Claremont Farm this weekend, as chef to the stars Brian Mellor shares his secrets with culinarychallenged couples. On the most romantic weekend of the year, Brian, a Master Chef of Great Britain, will be opening up his kitchen and showing budding gourmets how to make delicious chocolates for their loved ones. Brian spent years cooking at exclusive venues and competing in culinary events, picking up gold medals and awards along the way. He was executive chef at Granada TV in Manchester. There’s a five-bedroom Penthouse on top of the building and there he cooked for Prime Ministers, Royal visitors, and, on one occasion, OJ Simpson. But now the down-to-earth Widnes lad is based at Claremont Farm kitchens, in Bebington, teaching his craft in a series of informal public workshops. “We weren’t going to do anything for Valentine’s Day,” says Brian. “But then we had so many people asking for advice on what to make. “Valentine’s is one of those
Franco’s Ristorante Where Italians love to eat
Serving the best Italian cuisine for 25 years
Valentines Day 14th February A Welcoming Glass of Champagne for your loved one. APPETIZERS
Assorted Canapes
STARTERS
Exotic seafood salad with Marie Rose Dressing OR Vegetali al Forno Europei OR Home-made Vegetable Soup
MAIN COURSE
Intimate Steak Maison OR Sexy Supreme of Chicken A la Crema OR Big Bulging Barbecued Pork Fillet
DESSERTS
Choice of Sweet
£23.95 Per person including complimentary rose for your companion Coffee & Mints £1.90 extra per person Look on our website for further details
Also available for Business Lunches • Birthdays • Parties • Celebrations • Office Functions. Mon-Fri 11.30am-3.00pm. Tuesday-Sat 5.30pm-11.00pm
48a Castle Street, Liverpool - Tel: 0151 236 3375 Fax: 0151 236 7260 www.baritalialiverpool.com
CelebratedchefBrianMellortellsJadeW occasions where you want to do something personal and handmade. Anyone could go to the shop and buy a box of chocolates, but to make them shows you’ve really thought about it. It’s going the extra mile.” Brian will be running workshops this weekend, teaching budding chocolatiers how to make dark chocolate truffles, orange liqueur truffles, cappuccino truffles and milk chocolate ribbons. “We ran a chocolate workshop before Christmas and it was really popular,” says Brian. “Everyone enjoys a really good truffle, and they taste so much better if you make them yourself.” The workshop is open to people who want to make the chocolates as a surprise for their loved one, and for couples, too. “It should be a lot of fun,” smiles Brian. “Whether people come on their own, or bring their partners. It’s always funny when you get couples on a workshop together. It can be a bit like teaching your husband or wife how to drive at first, but we always have a good laugh. I suspect there will be a bit of quality control going on, with one partner checking that the chocolates that are being made for them come up to scratch.” And, if the chocolates weren’t enough, there’s an extra romantic element to the weekend. Brian’s girlfriend Irina Georgescu will be joining him to help out, and so the couple can spend Valentine’s Day together. “Irina is my right-hand woman,” explains Brian. “She does the business side of things and keeps me organised, so it’s great to have her with me. We’ll be working hard on Valentine’s Day, but it’s good that we can be together.” Brian and Irina met when he went on a fact-finding trip for Liverpool’s Capital of Culture year. “Irina was the press officer on the trip, and it all went from
there for us,” says Brian. “Everyone jokes that now I have a lasting legacy of Capital of Culture.” Now Irina and Brian work all year round at the farm, and doing workshops around Merseyside, promoting the fantastic local produce available and encouraging traditional skills. “I do a lot of work to promote our local producers and I wanted to promote the importance of carefully grown ingredients and cooking nutritious food,” says Brian. “Together we can work on educating people that great quality food should be available for everyone. We are perfectly positioned on the farm to bring all this together.” Claremont Farm is renowned for its seasonal ingredients, such as asparagus and strawberries, which are supplied to top restaurants across Merseyside, as well as sold in their farm shop. “This is Wirral’s year of food and drink, and we have events and workshops planned to celebrate the fantastic produce that’s available,” says Brian. “At Easter we’ll be looking at forgotten Easter treats – things like Simnel cake that taste great but that people might not think to try. “As soon as the asparagus begins in April, we’ll be running sessions where people can pick their own produce and learn how to cook it on site. “There’s always a really good atmosphere at the workshops, and you get to eat what you cook. At the end of the session, we all sit down and eat the meal we’ve cooked together. There’s no fun cooking and not eating.” Brian Mellor’s Valentine’s chocolate workshops run this Saturday and Sunday, priced £55. Full-day cookery workshops are available throughout the year, priced £90, and half-days for £55, including ingredients. ■ FOR more information, visit www.claremont farm.co.uk
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Tuesday, February 9, 2010
menu
helpingoflove
cupboard love THIS Love Hearts “It” bag makes a gorgeous treat for a fashion-savvy Valentine. The cute bag comes complete with padlock and key and contains 500 grams of delicious Swizzels Matlow retro sweets. Available in black or red, priced £15, from LoveHearts.com
Wrightaboutthesweetestwaytoapartner’sheart PUCKER up because this toaster is just perfect for a Valentine’s morning breakfast. Handbag designer Lulu Guinness has penned her famous lips logo to Comet's two-slicer. Lulu Guinness Toaster, £34.99, selected Comet stores, stockists www.comet.co.uk
Masterchef Brian Mellor creates some chocolate hearts in time for Valentine's Day, at Claremont Kitchen, in Bebington
IF YOU can’t decide whether to buy chocolates or flowers this Valentine’s Day, get both with these gorgeous chocs from Charbonnel et Walker. The Pink Marc de Champagne Truffles come in an exquisite, handmade paper rose box which you will never want to throw away. Order them now at www.charbonnel.co.uk, priced £30.
Pictures: JAMES MALONEY/ jm050210menu-2, left, and jm050210menu-9, inset, below, left
stanley park anfield road liverpool l4 0td telephone: 0151 263 0363 info@theislagladstone.co.uk www.theislagladstone.co.uk
Situated in the recently restored Stanley Park, Kemps Bistro at the The Isla Gladstone Conservatory is perfectly located for enjoying lazy Sundays in the park. With free parking, and acres of beautiful gardens it’s the ideal place to go and unwind. You will be delighted with everything we have to offer, with our delicious, home~made, locally sourced, organic, freshly prepared food.
Sunday Lunch
served 12.00 - 4.00pm
£7.95 ~ 1 course £10.95 ~ 2 courses £12.95 ~ 3 courses
open daily
9.30am - 4.30pm book now on:
0151 263 0363
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Tuesday, February 9, 2010
menu
eating out
Anyone for anicekebab?
VickiKellaway owes thechefanapology at oneofthecity’s newest restaurants – TheNoble House
T
HERE is something ostentatious about eating your dinner from a giant skewer suspended in the middle of your table. But that’s the fashionable way to order your meat, or your fish, or your meat and fish at The Noble House, and there were three other couples eating exactly the same way. This mains-to-share – “The Vine” – is a long metal skewer suspended elegantly from a vine shaped handle. It’s a clever way to bring something unusual to this new venture on Brunswick Street – opposite the formidable Restaurant Bar and Grill – and it works. The Noble House, named after the experiment of banning alcohol across America in the 1920s, is still carving out its atmosphere. The decor is nice enough; red leather booths and dark wood tables, a huge chainmail chandelier and pleasantly low lighting. But it was gently humming rather than bustling on a Friday night and, from the people behind Alma de Cuba, you would expect the theme to be a little more overt. At first glance, the food looked classic rather than creative and the wine list was enormous. Fortunately, our waitress was friendly. She chose a beautiful Chilean Sauvignon Blanc – the Errázuriz 1870 Peñuelas Block for those in the know (£5 for a large glass). We weren’t offered bread because bread and oils is a course and costs £2.95. At least that means you’re not tempted to spoil your appetite. The service was prompt but we were ravenous
Facts for the foodies The sophisticated dining area of The Noble House, in Brunswick Street, Liverpool Picture: JAMES MALONEY/ jm050210noble-1
when my goats’ cheese (£5.95) and his risotto (£6.95) arrived. Mine was a tasty tower of goats cheese and rocket served between layers of juicy tomato with a sweet pepper sauce on the side. The boyfriend’s risotto looked like a pizza – a juicy shallot-infused rice base with tomatoes, cherry mozzarella and herbs scattered on top. “Oh no,” he said. “We’ve let the chef down here. This is seriously tasty and yet we’ve
It was delicious – and a really fun way to eat
just ordered a giant kebab.” But there was no going back. The huge char-grilled skewer was on its way and we had potato and garlic gratin, roast maple parsnips and a mix of fine beans and sugar snap peas to eat alongside it (£2.95 each). The kebab (£30) included Cumbrian fell lamb, marinated in garlic and rosemary; chilli chicken wings and chunks of chorizo. It was delicious – and a really fun way to eat, even though we were beaten by the last few pieces of meat. Still, that left room for dessert. I had the excellent passion fruit and
mango brulee with shortbread and a very tasty sorbet (£6.95) The boyfriend ordered the Ron Zacapa Experience (£9.95) – a glass of the 23-year-old Guatemalan rum served with espresso and some gorgeous chocolate and orange fudge. And so made a lovely end to a surprisingly good meal. The Noble House might not yet have found its feet in terms of character and regular clientele, but the food alone will definitely make it worth the trip. I guess the only hard part will be persuading your friends to join you for a nice kebab in town.
THE Noble House, Heywood Building, 5 Brunswick Street, Liverpool L2 OUU Contact: 0151 236 5346 or info@thenoblehouse.co.uk Bill: £90 including tip Service: Excellent. Very friendly and helpful. Value for money: Expensive but the food is worth it. Watch out for the extras such as bread and mineral water.
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Tuesday, February 9, 2010
the wine list
menu
Raiseaglassto yourlovedone W
HILE scented roses pull at our heart strings and restaurants try to play Cupid with loveinducing menus, sometimes the best aphrodisiac for a romantic evening is a Valentine’s drink shared a deux. Here are some tantalising tipples for February 14: ■ IF YOU fancy a passionate cocktail, try Italy’s number one nectar, Disaronno (£12.69). This amaretto liqueur is made from 17 herbs and fruits soaked in apricot kernel oil, and is so versatile that it can be savoured over ice, or ice-cream, or as a Disaronno Kiss. Simply take 25ml Disaronno, 12.5ml pomegranate juice and some prosecco or sparkling wine. Pour the Disaronno into a flute, add pomegranate juice and top with prosecco. Garnish with orange peel and toast your favourite saint! ■ LOOKING for some wow-factor? Why not treat your other half to the first non-vintage rosé from the world’s most awarded Champagne house. Dressed in a pretty pink box, Charles Heidsieck Rosé Reserve (£41.24, Waitrose) is their latest release, with delicate bubbles that dance to a sweet tune of cherry fruits, with a hint of cinnamon on the finish.
appealing ice jacket that keeps this delicately fruity Champagne at an ideal temperature for up to two hours. Veuve Clicquot Sakura Rosé paint tin (£60, Waitrose nationwide) and Veuve Clicquot Sakura Rosé ice jacket (£45, Waitrose nationwide) ■ FOR a stellar red that’s beautifully tailored to February 14, try this elegant Beaujolais, Saint Amour Domaine des Billards 2007 (£11.50, Nicolas) with lip-smacking raspberry fruit flavours, it’s full-bodied and a perfect partner with roast chicken or pork. Or serenade your loved one with some red-blooded passion from Argentina. Fabre
Montmayou Barrel Selection Malbec 2007 (£10.49 www. laithwaites. co.uk) is packed full of delectable black fruit with notes of spicy oak and a hint of vanilla. Velvety smooth with surprisingly soft tannins, it’s a marriage made in heaven with fillet steak and pommes-frites. ■ IF IT’S something truly irresistible to go with chocolates after a candlelit dinner, you require, try a glass of Harveys Pedro Ximenez (£19.99, 50cl, Waitrose). Served chilled, this moreish sweet wine tastes exquisite with truffles and pralines, or even sticky toffee pudding. ■ IF YOU’RE looking for the perfect present for the man in your life, a membership to Berrys’ Wine Club makes an original and long-lasting Valentine’s gift. Every two months, your partner will receive 12 bottles of delicious wines selected by Berrys’ Masters of Wine, along with recipe suggestions. Wine lovers can also create romantic feasts to match their favourite tipple. Snuggle up on the sofa together and plan your menu – after all, the way to a man’s heart is through the finer things in life! From £65 per month, Berrys’ has a choice of nine different cases to suit all tastes, palates and wallets, visit www.bbr.com
■ THE lady in your life will be tickled pink if you present her with one of these darling new offerings from Veuve Clicquot on February 14. Nestled inside the eye-catching cherry blossom print box is a half-bottle of rosé Champagne with two stem-less flutes, ideal for romantics who want to pop the question. Suitors can also try their luck with the
best bar none
Life is sweet: Palm Sugar Lounge, in Liverpool One, offers luxury, fabulous views and glamorous cocktails
WITH a huge floor-to-ceiling window framing Chavasse Park and the waterfront beyond, Palm Sugar Lounge occupies one of the most stunning locations in the city. And, living up to its surroundings, it piles on the glamour. Adjoining Chaophraya Thai restaurant, it opened last June and quickly gained a reputation as the place to be on a balmy evening. But, whatever the weather, there’s an air of grown-up sophistication here that appeals. The decor is Far Eastern
culture meets classic New York cocktail bar. High ceilings, twinkling globe chandeliers and spacious cushion-packed booths mean the bar is as dressed up as its clientele. As for drinks, there’s a healthy list of classic, speciality and Champagne cocktails, plus beers which nod to its Eastern origins alongside the bottled regulars. And if all that wasn’t quite special enough, there’s a members lounge and waitress service on offer, too. ■ PALM Sugar Lounge, 5/6, Kenyon Steps, Liverpool One. Tel: 0151 707 6654
Mathew Sloane I HAVEN’T been overwhelmed with the year so far. The nation seems to be in the melancholic grip of an inevitable dystopia, exacerbated by this unruly, terrifying cold. I have taken small amounts of pleasure from unleashing my fierce winter wardrobe onto an unsuspecting city – my inherited fulllength sheepskin proving to be a firm hit in both social and business circles, a majestic garment that has aided in raising my profile from genius to neo-deity and shall undoubtedly find its way onto next year’s “must have” list for all aspiring icons. The uncouth frost has managed to destroy a pair of fine loafers, which have been buried with all dutiful ceremony, it has also managed to murder some carelessly stored wine and has played havoc with my nascent pear tree. It has been a tough old winter, with no end in sight. Despite the onset of an irrepressible ice-age, my fellow princes and I have managed to spread our considerable wealth and presence around the old town with reckless and contagious disregard for personal safety and fiscal responsibility. We have a duty to throw down weary gauntlets in the face of such tiresome adversity and rise, in the light of victories to come, as glorious knights, resplendent in a boozy glow, determined to fight down the demons of recession and ill fortune. In essence, a few of the lads and myself decided to go on a bit of a mooch and see who was offering the best laughing soup, as the cold was killing our respective vibes and the lack of totty in the local juicer demanded a trip to the town. I don’t mind a bit of self advertising as I’m usually involved in admirable projects, so with no regret whatsoever I’m going to call you over to The Noble House for a glass or two of some marvellous wine. We have employed some insane technology to be able to offer top swag by the glass, something to do with time travelling particles and divine sacrifice, we have a machine that keeps an open bottle for up to a month, as opposed to a couple of days. The machine has several technical monikers but could do with something more creative, pop in with a suitable title and I’ll pour you a glass of Pinot Noir and we’ll have a few smiles. I’m currently listing some very fine Burgundy, top St Emilion and one of the finest Californian reds you’ll ever get to taste – hurry up before the boys and myself turn Viking and cane the lot of it. Check out www.thenoblehouse.co.uk for a peek at my glorious wine list and an even more incredible menu – best fish in the city, best beef in the cosmos. In search of more boss gear, my gang of reprobates forced itself through the gates of Jalon’s Bridewell, Campbell Square, for an evening of French wine and tucker. It is a credit to our fine host, the indomitable Vlastimil and his raucous cohort, Rak Jain, of The House Of Townend, that I can only just remember the first excellent course. I believe some superb duck followed and have been reliably informed that all of the wine was of sublime quality. The next wine lover’s event is on March 29 – www.jalons bridewell.co.uk for details.
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Tuesday, February 9, 2010
“Something Fruity has sprung up on Blundell Street” Liverpool Confidential
The Orchard
restaurant • bar • cider tavern
57 Blundell Street, L1 0AJ
Special Valentine’s Menu now online. LIMITED SPACES AVAILABLE
Telephone 0151 709 3060 www.theorchardliverpool.com