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menu THE DAILY POST FOOD & DRINK GUIDE JULY 2010

Season’s eatings Oddfellows’ chef Richard Phillips keeps it simple

MATT SLOANE AIDEN BYRNEGROW YOUR OWN

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

fresh

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Heading here Tara says: "I'm the opposite of most people as I have to eat a lot otherwise I lose weight and can look very thin. People have often wrongly said I have an eating disorder, but the reality is that I have an extremely fast metabolism and just burn off the pounds." She's 5ft 8in, a size six, and weighs nine and a half stone and she keeps fit with regular sessions with a personal trainer and dance classes. As part of her weight-boosting diet she

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Tuesday, July 13, 2010

chef’s table

Notsuchanoddfellow MichelinchefRichard PhillipstellsJade Wrightthatthe secrettosuccessis seasonalingredients

ICHARD PHILLIPS is an Oddfellow, and he doesn’t care who knows it . . . The TV chef is bringing his magic – and Michelin starred expertise – to Oddfellows, the Chester boutique hotel, restaurant and members’ club. “I’m loving every minute,” smiles Richard. “My ethos is all about simple local, seasonal produce, and this part of the world is great for that. “If you buy food, you don’t need to do much to it. The problem comes when you start putting strawberries on the menu in November. You fly them halfway across the world and they taste of nothing. They cost a fortune and you end up passing that on to the customer. “But, if you plan your menus and think about seasonal food you can get nearby, it’s cheaper and a lot tastier.” Richard doesn’t do things by halves. His first job was at the Savoy Hotel in London, going on to work alongside the Roux Brothers at Le Gavroche and then becoming head chef for Marco Pierre White at The Criterion, Mirabelle and Les Saveurs. His first restaurant of his own, Thackeray's, won him a Michelin star at the age of 29. While he’s also still running his other restaurants, and appearing on GMTV and Ready Steady Cook, his post as consultant chef at Oddfellows is very much a “hands-on” operation – made possible by the latest technology. As well as his weekly trips to Chester, he’s also able to communicate with his team of chefs at Oddfellows via kitchen webcams, allowing frequent changes of the menu and up-to-the-minute consultation. “We have a great team of chefs, led by head chef Adrian Bailey,” he explains. “We all have the same goals, so it works out well. “I knew Ken Roscoe, who opened the hotel, from when he and his company Lister Carter designed Thackeray’s. They are one of the best restaurant designers around, and so when they told me that they were opening Oddfellows, I was keen to find out more. After a year or so, they were looking to make some changes, so they asked me to come in. That first conversation was a year ago, and it’s all happened very quickly.” As you might expect from a restaurant opened by designers, Oddfellows is packed with quirky touches. Based in the landmark 17thcentury Guild house, formerly Oddfellows Hall in Chester’s Lower Bridge Street, it is filled with mirrors and cuckoo clocks informing diners of World Time Zones and even a stag’s head bearing a bowler hat. The hall was built in 1676 by a

Quirky lighting and decoration, at Oddfellows restaurant, Chester

Richard Phillips, above, lovingly prepares a dish for Oddfellows restaurant, left

wealthy widow called Dame Mary, who had outlived her husband, Sir Hugh, by 57 years. She paid a fine of £20 to the City Assembly to have the rows removed from the front of the mansion. She was very much the city’s socialite and built her house primarily to entertain the upper echelons of Chester society. Suspended tea cup lights give an Alice in Wonderland atmosphere and gold high back chairs add the finishing touch. The brasserie has tables with relaxing views of the gardens and opulent, oversized Chesterfields. Outside, in the walled garden, there are Bedouin tents for al fresco private dining. Showcasing modern British cuisine with seasonal, flavoursome

ingredients, the daily market lunch menu (served from Monday to Saturday, 12 noon - 3pm and 5pm – 8pm or Sunday 12 noon - 9pm) costs £10.95 for two or £12.95 for three courses. The a la carte Menu, served from 5pm-10pm, Monday to Saturday, embraces North-West sourced

ingredients, with typical starters including potted confit duck with thyme butter, toasted country bread and Cumberland sauce or the superb Oddfellows’ charcuterie plate featuring warm Cheshire brie and a selection of cured meats. Sample main courses include roast rib of local British beef with sautéed

READER OFFER ODDFELLOWS would like to offer Liverpool Daily Post readers a glass of sparkling wine with their compliments with Afternoon Tea

Bookings. This offer is valid until August 31 upon presentation of this article. Please mention the Daily Post when booking.

garlic scented woodland mushrooms and Cheshire blue cheese dauphinoise. Head chef Adrian explains: “Our meat comes from Cheshire and Lancashire, and it’s the best I’ve tasted. There’s no need to import meat when you can get this quality on your doorstep.” The eccentric pantry offers afternoon tea (served daily from 3-5pm) and light lunches, the street level all day Bistro overlooks the picturesque centre of Chester. “Chester is becoming a food destination,” says Adrian. “You have places like ABode opening up, and rather than competing, we’re all working together. There’s space for everyone, and we’re finding that we’re getting busier than ever.”

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Grow your own

Howthegoodlifejustkeep JadeWrightmeetstheWirral restaurateursdiggingforvictoryand growingtheirownfruitandvegetables

Beetroot grown at Cromwells restaurant in Irby

ONE are the days when growing your own was the preserve of old chaps in flat caps. Now, the new breed of gardener is more likely to be younger, female and seeking a more eco-friendly lifestyle. But, while more and more of us are turning over sections of our gardens to plant edible crops, and even joining the evergrowing allotment waiting lists, few of us are having to feed 30 hungry mouths every night. But that’s exactly what Kay Featherstone and Kate Allinson, at Cromwells restaurant, have bravely taken on. “We started to grow our own courgettes in the garden,” explains Kay, who works as the Irby restaurant’s front-of-house manager. “And before we knew it we’d dug up the beds and devoted them to more than 30 varieties of fruit and veg. “We were always looking for the freshest produce from the local area to use in the restaurant – and now we’re actually growing it.” So now, in addition to working full-time in the restaurant, Kay and Kate – the restaurant’s head chef – are up before dawn planting, sowing, weeding and harvesting. “It’s exhausting, but we love it,” laughs Kay, 24. “We’re out there at silly o’clock picking things. But then it’s all worth it when you see the look on the customers’ faces. It makes you so proud that not only has it been cooked here, but it’s been grown in our own garden.” The current early evening menu (Wednesday to Saturday, before 7pm, two courses £10.95 or three courses for £12.95, after 7pm two courses are £12.95 and three are £14.95) offers a variety of home-grown produce. “We’ve got onions, French beans, butternut squash, courgettes, beetroot, gooseberries, red currants, blackcurrants – you name it, we’ve pretty much got it.” It all started a few years ago – we had a regular customer who asked us to come and help her get rid of the rhubarb that was taking over her garden. We put it on the menu, everyone loved it, and it got us thinking. “There’s no greater provenance than actually growing it yourself. There’s no real supply chain, it’s the simplest way it could possibly be, and I think that’s why it works.” Kate, 39, opened Cromwells 10 years ago. As well as their own fruit and vegetables, she works hard to keep all of the produce used in the kitchen as locally sourced as possible. Their meat is from Derek Massey & Son Butchers, in Heswall, their eggs are free range & organic and are sourced from Hillside Farm, Thurstaston, the cheeses are from The Chester Cheese Shop, Chester, and their ice cream comes from Cheshire Farm Ice Cream. “We really care about where the food comes from,” says Kay. “Most of our business comes from returning customers, so it’s in our interest as well as theirs to make sure that we have the best food for them every time they come. We believe that quality of food is here on the Wirral – that’s why Wirral is having its year of food and

drink – to showcase just how good the food community is doing here at the moment.” Next year, though, Kay and Kate have plans to expand. “We’re going to dig over the whole lawn next year,” says Kay. “This year, we’ve tried it and it’s been great, but next year we want to do more. Soon we’ll have no garden left.” Kay has been posting pictures of the produce on Flickr, and posting updates on Twitter. “Flickr and Twitter have been great for us,” says Kay. “Every night we have at least one new table of people who have come just because they’ve seen us on Twitter. “With something like that, you get to see the real us, as well as hear about the food. We post about what we’re up to in the kitchen or the garden, and people share the same things with us. “We’ve had some great tips from people we’ve met on there, and loads have been in to meet us in the restaurant. It’s great when they come in, like meeting up with an old friend, except you’ve never been in the same room before.” Kay has been posting a picture a day of the garden on her Flickr account, and the results are impressive. “People are so supportive,” smiles Kay. “Gardening, like cooking, is something that lots of people share a love for, and we’ve had a fantastic response. It just keeps getting better.” ■ CROMWELLS Restaurant, 19, Thingwall Road, Irby Village, Wirral, CH61 3UA. Tel: 0151 648 9898, www@cromwells-irby.co.uk; Twitter: @cromwellswirral

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

psgettingbetter

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Some of the homegrown fruit and vegetables ready to be whipped up into tasty dishes at Cromwells

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Tuesday, July 13, 2010

eating out

Aiden goes out on aLymm

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Food facts THE Church Green, Higher Lane, Lymm, WA13 0AP. Tel: 01925 752068 ww.thechurchgreen.co.uk

HE term gastropub is a tad over-used these days. Unheard of a few years ago, it seems to have become a catch-all term for any hostelry that offers more than one wine by the glass and parfait, rather than paté. Chef Aiden Byrne’s first dining venture may technically be a public house, but it’s more gourmet pub than gastropub. If his name sounds familiar, it should. Kirkby-born Aiden became the UK’s youngest Michelin star chef when he was awarded the prestigious accolade aged just 22. Two years ago, the former Ruffwood Comp pupil took on the high-profile role of head chef at London’s renowned Dorchester Grill, only to turn his back on the big city and come back up north to open the Church Green in the leafy Cheshire outpost of Lymm. The restaurant has barely been open 18 months, but already the plaudits are pouring in. It was named best newcomer at the Northern Hospitality Awards and is the proud owner of three AA rosettes, which means it ranks among the top 10% of restaurants in the UK and is just one rosette behind the Michelin-starred Chester Grosvenor. So, it is fair to say that when my husband and I rocked up there one Sunday evening, we had rather high expectations. While its chef patron boasts sparkling credentials, there is nothing flashy about the Church Green. Its style is very much your simple country pub with no bells and whistles – well, unless you count the rather fabulous al fresco dining area. We hadn’t booked a table and when we arrived were asked whether we wanted bar food or to dine a la

Award-winning chef Aiden Byrne – born in Liverpool

Interior: Stylish and airy country pub. Has a rather fabulous conservatory and a great outside dining area. Service: The helpful and well-informed staff are able to talk you through the sometimes complicated dishes. Disabled access: Yes. Value: The a la carte menu is on the pricey side, but it is top-quality fare. Bill: For two with a bottle of wine, £115.70

One of Aiden’s delicious work-of-art style dishes, above; and, right, the Church Green offers a fabulous outdoor dining area carte. It seemed wrong to come all this way and not have the full Aiden Byrne experience, so we opted for the a la carte. As well as the bar and a la carte menus, the Church Green also offers a lunch menu, Sunday roast menu, young person’s menu and a sevencourse tasting menu at £68 per person, or £98 with accompanying wines. The menus change daily and, as you might expect from such a decorated chef, are designed to make the most of fresh seasonal produce. On our visit, starters included hand-dived scallop with slow-cooked pork belly and new season onions (£15) and poached red mullet with frogs’ legs and watercress soup (£13.50). I’d like to say I went straight for the frogs’ legs, but I’m afraid my palate is not that cultured. Instead, I ordered the glazed quail with pickled carrots and lemongrass sauce (£13) while my husband chose the chicken, artichoke and hazelnut terrine with foie gras parfait (£11). To drink, a bottle of Italian Mastri, Pinot Grigio (£21.50) was recommended. As we were sampling this, a charming amuse bouche arrived of truffle potato soup with fois gras.

I don’t know about you but I am not generally a fan of this amuse bouche business. Most of the time the dishes are too over the top and I am grateful that there is so little of them. However, I would have happily eaten a full-sized portion of this one. The AA’s review of the Church Green mentions “excellent and intelligent service” and how right that is. With each of our courses, one waiter placed the dishes while another explained their intricacies. Which is just as well because, as anyone who saw him at work on the Great British Menu programme will attest, Aiden’s dishes are mini works of art. My quail arrived on slate with a glass of something distinctly custard-like which our helpful waiter informed me was lemongrass and carrot vinaigrette soup with quail egg. It was an unexpected addition to the dish and, I am afraid, one which got the better of my palate. The gloopy texture was simply not for me. The quail itself, though, could not have been better; it was tender and rich in flavour and peeled away from the bone. My husband’s terrine looked terrific and tasted great, and Aiden must have worked quite some magic because it was the first time I have seen my other half sing liver’s praises.

For my main course, I was torn between the roasted wild sea bass with native lobster ravioli and peas a la française (£30) and the loin and breast of lamb with new season almonds (£27) apricots and cous cous. But when my other half started a spirited defence of why he should have the lamb I switched and ordered the breast and leg of cornfed chicken with figs, rosemary and lemon (£24). Sides of seasonal vegetables (£3) and chunky chips (£3.50) were also procured. I hadn’t been sure what to expect of my main course. I don’t normally like fruit with savoury dishes, so had concerns about the figs. I need not have worried. It was marvellous. The cubes of chicken came with some sort of gnocchi, mixed amid the figs, drizzled in lemon and flavoured with sweetsmelling rosemary. The effect was sweet and sticky and rich and surprisingly filling given the portion size. Once again, though, the real show was going on across the table from me. The lamb was quite the star. In one bowl sat strips of tender lamb with the apricots and cous cous while to the side was more lamb atop a hunk of roasted garlic. The garlic theme carried through to the

Its style is country pub, no bells and whistles

steaming bowl of mash which also accompanied the dish. The whole thing smelled divine and tasted even better. Somewhere in the mix was a sprinkling of anchovies which you would not think work with lamb, but in fact complemented it perfectly. In the interests of giving a full review, we could not leave without trying the desserts. As much as I should probably have found out what white chocolate and yoghurt cannelloni tastes like, I was swayed by an old favourite and ordered the sticky toffee pudding from the bar menu. My husband, who was impressed to see Aiden touring the restaurant while I was in the ladies, chose the chocolate and strawberry sundae (both £5.95). The sundae was jam-packed with strawberries and chocolate chips, and if there is a better sticky toffee pudding to be had in the North West, I’ve yet to taste it. The desserts were a simple but satisfying end to a stunning meal, and we left the Church Green understanding why so much praise has been heaped upon the young Mr Byrne. I look forward to sampling his cooking again, and with his eye currently on expanding his dining empire, something tells me I may not have to go all the way to Lymm next time.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

the wine list

Mathew Sloane

LIVE in the Caribbean. It's brilliant. I'd love to have the, er, bravery to leave things there, but my editor is as charming as she is demanding, and I also hear she can stop hurricanes with a word. With that in mind, I shall try not to gloat excessively and maybe offer a word or two in support and honour of our most excellent friend – the humble yet ever so noble grape. I've journeyed over to the Cayman Islands with the hope of furnishing the superb people of these beautiful places with some excellent booze and even better banter. I have begun to terrorise my new dining room with my trademark haphazard fervour and a newly-found English resolve which has yet to win favour with the rather relaxed local attitude. My first major assault shall be the divisive subject of dessert wine. I love the stuff. When it's good, dessert can make a swift dart for the taxi rank and the wine will suffice. A good bottle of Sauternes shared with an attractive and carefree companion can make a man proud, righteous and poetic. We can drift to Olympus and take our place in the pantheon of the old gods, assured of our boundless knowledge and love of all things upon which our brother Apollo's sun may shine. Our beloved, sweet wine is mostly made from late harvested grapes and some of the finest must have fallen prey to noble rot. Despite its rather horrific appearance, the old grey rot helps to concentrate sugars in the grapes allowing for fine sorcerers to create the marvellous honeyed wines of Tokaji, Sauternes and so on. As much as it is outrageous fun to sip your way through a bottle, untainted with a cheeky pudding, there are

some stupendous marriages out there that must be tried. A budding young chef and acquaintance of mine has suggested a blinding dancing partner for Hungary's finest export, Tokaji Aszu. You may have a tough time finding a finding a decent bottle, might I suggest calling Kelly Warner at Vinea – 0151 707 8962 and she may be able to help you. Tokaji is wildly rich, very sweet and pours like honey. It wants to be chilled for about an hour in your fridge, or 15 minutes on ice. It also wants a fierce bedfellow to deal with all that liquid heaven. Our ambitious chef, Karen, has advised me to try a slice of chocolate chilli cake, a glass of Tokaji and a Smith's album – a quality dining partner is also a must. Unfortunately, I have not yet found any of the required ingredients in my tropical outpost but I have been assured by the estimable Karen that the marriage was full of love and vitality with hints of magic and danger. Cosmic. I shall briefly offer some tried and tested pairings that should make your British, ahem, summer pass with happiness into the looming cold. Sauternes demands foie gras, at the very least a good homemade paté; my favourite dessert wine, eiswein, made from frozen grapes in Germany, Canada and Austria, is best enjoyed with a delicate, fruitladen pasty or something meringuey; Australian orange Muscat will forever be your best pal if you give it anything involving toffee or caramel – I once had the insane pleasure of tasting it with a brioche, toffee and chocolate ravioli at Liverpool's temple of gastronomy, 60 Hope Street, I floated home on clouds of godliness and declared pudding to be the greatest invention since women. Next month – more gloating.

best bar none

OR the first time in its 300-year history, Fortnum & Mason will be venturing outside the capital to host three restaurants at the greatest gardening show of the North. The Queen’s grocer will be setting up home at the Royal Horticultural Society’s Show at Tatton Park, from July 21-25. This event of the season takes place in the grounds of the beautiful stately home at Mereheath Lane, Knutsford, one of Cheshire’s Gardens of Distinction. The Piccadilly food emporium will bring its incredible edibles, terrific teas and luscious lunches to the show in three dining rooms. Indulge in light snacks and classic Viennoiserie in The Parlour, a mirror of the Piccadilly restaurant of the same name, or the RHS Show Tatton Club while the Brasserie offers lunch and afternoon tea throughout the show. To be in with a chance of winning a VIP glorious summer day out with a pair of tickets to the show and a traditional afternoon tea for two from Fortnum & Mason including finger sandwiches, scones and Fortnum preserves, just answer this question: How many restaurants will Fortnum & Mason be hosting at the RHS Show Tatton Park? To enter, send a postcard to Jade Wright, Menu competition, Liverpool Daily Post, Old Hall Street, Liverpool, L69 3EB. Entries must be received by 9am on Friday, July 16. Usual Daily Post competition rules apply. ■ Tickets to the RHS Show Tatton Park 2010 are now on sale. Advance booking is recommended 0844 388 7528 to save £5 on the ticket price. ■ To book, call or visit www.rhs.org.uk/tatton ■ To reserve lunch or afternoon tea with Fortnum & Mason, call 0845 602 5699 or email tattonpark@fortnumandmason, co.uk or visit www.fortnumandmason.com/ rhstattonshow.

Sakura, in Exchange Flags, opened in May OFFERING Teppanyaki-style cooking and chilled-out lounge drinking in Liverpool's business quarter, Sakura opened its doors in May in a glitzy £1.2m launch. The venue is tucked away in the impressive Exchange Flags square, looking out onto our imposing Town Hall. A large wooden decking area splays out at the front which is already proving popular, given the recent summer sunshine, while inside Sakura has an air of cool sophistication, all polished marble, softened ambient beats, and large bubbling fish tanks. And what an array of drinks they have on offer. For the beer lovers, it's Asahi and Tiger on

Afternoontea fitforaQueen

draught (both £3.50), and wine starts at around £4.75 a glass. But it's the cocktails and spirits where Sakura comes into its own. There are 28 different vodkas, 16 gins, 25 rums, five different cachacas (fantastic for those caipirinhas), 11 tequilas . . . the list goes on and on. Some 60 whiskies are described in detail, including a 30-year-old bottle of Glenfiddich, Speyside, which would lighten your pocket to the tune of a cool £1,680, a Johnnie Walker Blue label and a King George V Edition, Scotland, at £2,240! ■ SAKURA Unit 8, Exchange Flags, Liverpool, L2 3YL; Tel 0151-236 2113

You could be enjoying afternoon tea at Tatton Park, courtesy of the Queen’s grocers, Fortnum and Mason

Wirral Farmers’ Market winners WIRRAL Farmers Market has announced its awards for the Producers of the Year. Voted for by customers, these foodie Oscars are now an annual award ceremony, held as part of the market’s birthday celebrations. Cllr Alan Jennings, the Mayor of Wirral, presented the awards at the market along with the Mayoress, and they received plants from Magills Nurseries. The Mayor and Mayoress also got a chance to sample some of

the products along the way and enjoyed a break at the tea bar, which is run by volunteers and parents from Grove Street Primary School. The school uses the money raised at the market to improve the school environment, including starting their own allotments. This year, the most unusual product award was won by RS Ireland for their chilli and vegetarian black pudding. Best product was the extra virgin olive oil sold

by Bebington-based El Olivar, who bottle the oil from their own olive groves in Spain. The runner-up in this category was the Blue Stilton cheese from Mrs Kirkham. The best presented stall was won by Beef Direct, who also won best customer service and best overall producer. Runner-up in the best presented stall was Cottage Cakes, an enterprise run by Kathryn Crocker, from Wirral. The best customer

service section was a tightly-fought contest, with shoppers eventually awarding the runner’s-up award to High Seas Seafood. Chairman of Wirral Farmers Market, Anne Benson, said: “This is a great way to thank every one of our producers who work so hard and help make the market a great customer service and fun shopping experience. “They create and make fantastic produce, and we are delighted the market continues to grow and be successful.”

Tuesday, July 13, 2010