menu THE DAILY POST FOOD & DRINK GUIDE March 2010
Afternoon delight Take mum for tea Edwardian style in Port Sunlight
HEAVEN IN HELL’S KITCHEN WINE LIST MICHELIN STAR PERFORMER
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Tuesday, March 9, 2010
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Tuesday, March 9, 2010
chef’s table
menu
Cookingupaninspiration JadeWrightmeets Michael Caines, the double Michelin starred chefsoonto openupinChester
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F TELEVISION chefs are anything to go by, it seems that life in the catering industry is all about macho one-upmanship and swearing like a trooper. It’s almost a privilege to be balled out by chef, if culinary TV is to be believed. Not so, says Michael Caines. “I don’t think you achieve anything by bullying people,” says the double Michelin starred chef. “Some chefs have that trademark aggression, but I think often you can achieve a lot more by being reasonable. “No-one gets up in the morning to be shouted at – particularly not doing the hours that anyone who works in a kitchen takes on. “For me, it’s more about inspiring people. I’ve triumphed over adversity, and I hope that shows other people what they can achieve too.” Michael’s struggle has been well documented. Two months after becoming Head Chef at Gidleigh Park, one of the most prestigious restaurants in the country, Michael was involved in a car crash and lost his right arm. But, impressively, he returned to the kitchen within two weeks, and went on to win two Michelin stars, an MBE and Chef of the Year at the Cateys Awards. He was also the AA Chefs’ Chef of the Year 2007, holds an honorary doctorate of law (LLD) and has been invited to cook for statesmen, including the Prime Minister, as well as finishing as a finalist in The Great British Menu, the contest to cook for HRH The Queen’s 80th birthday. As the man says: “I’m living, breathing proof that you can achieve whatever you set your heart on.” Michael’s latest venture is a long-held ambition. After years of planning, he is opening up a restaurant in Chester as part of ABode, the four-star boutique hotel group of which he is operational partner and director. Featuring bespoke art collections created by celebrity photographer, Brian Aris, the venue captures modern style with an eclectic mixture of art pieces. With floor to ceiling windows, Michael’s fifth-floor Michael Caines Champagne Bar and Restaurant captures breathtaking views from the city as far as the Welsh hills. The 76-seat restaurant offers private dining facilities, as well as the opportunity to dine al fresco on the outside terrace. Michael is justifiably proud of his new venture. “I’ve fallen in love with Chester,” he smiles. “After opening Manchester’s ABode, I was very keen to find somewhere in Liverpool. I’d been looking for the
right place for some time when the opportunity came up in Chester. “It made sense for us. Chester is a great base for Cheshire, the Wirral and Merseyside. It’s a great area for sourcing local produce and there’s a very strong local food scene. “The city has something for everyone in terms of historical and cultural interest, as well as a thriving business community. “Plus, the farm produce in Cheshire and Wirral is out of this world. There’s fantastic seafood, really good meat and a general understanding of what makes good food.” To show off all the local produce, the new restaurant will offer more flexible tasting and “grazing” menus, as well as traditional à la carte to allow diners to sample dishes however they want. “I’m really excited about moving to Chester during the launch and really immersing myself in the place,” smiles Michael. “I want to get in the car in the morning and drive all around the local area, tasting my way around all the local towns and villages. “With this being Wirral’s year of food and drink, I think there’s a huge potential there. And I’m looking forward to exploring Liverpool properly, too, and really getting a chance to eat out.” Chester, too is becoming a destination in its own right for its food and drink offer. “I love what Simon Radley is doing at the Grosvenor,” enthuses Michael. “His food is fantastic, and I have a lot of respect for the work he’s doing there. “Our restaurant will be something very different, and I think it will complement what he’s doing very well. I’m not looking to recreate Gidleigh Park here. This restaurant will have its own feel. “Michelin stars and awards don’t mean much if you think you can’t work with the place you’re in. Our aim is to work with, rather than fight against, what else the city has to offer.” ■ ABODE Chester opens in spring. For advance reservations, call 01244 347000 or visit www. ABodehotels.co.uk/chester
Michael Caines: ‘I’m living, breathing proof that you can achieve whatever you set your heart on’
CaramelisedLemonTart(servessix) INGREDIENTS 125g butter, 85g icing sugar, five small eggs, ½ pinch salt, zest of half orange, 250g flour, sieved, Parchment paper, Baking beans, 190 ml lemon juice, 6 egg yolks, 150g caster sugar, 125g butter.
METHOD 1. In a mixing bowl, cream together the butter and the icing sugar until white using a hand blender/ whisk. 2. Add the sieved flour, orange, salt and bring the mix to a sandy crumble. Add little-by-little two of the eggs, then bring the mix
together on the first speed and once the mix is firm remove from the machine. 3. Wrap in cling film and refrigerate for at least two hours before using. 4. Butter a tart ring and place onto a flat bottomed tray. 5. Roll out the pastry evenly and line the tart using a piece of pastry to insure that the corners are well pressed into the bottom of the ring. Leave the excess overhanging the edge then line with parchment paper before filling with baking beans to the top. Bake for 10 minutes in a pre heated oven at Gas mark 3, 160°C or
325°F and then remove from the oven, and using a sharp serrated knife cut away the top of the excess pasty and then return to the oven and continue to bake for a further 10 minutes. 6. Remove beans and paper and place back into the oven to ensure the base is dry for a minute. Leave to cool before filling with the hot lemon cream. 7. Bring the lemon juice to the boil in a saucepan. Cream together the egg yolks, remaining eggs and caster sugar, then add a small amount of the hot lemon juice. Whisk together until smooth and add the
remaining lemon juice. Bring back to the boil, whisking all the time until smooth. Remove from the heat and place into a blender, add the butter progressively and blend until smooth 8. Pour into the prebaked tart and leave to set in the fridge. 9. Remove the ring from the tart and cut tart into the required portion size. Dust lightly with icing sugar. 10. Using a blow lamp, caramelise the icing sugar lightly and leave to cool and serve.
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Tuesday, March 9, 2010
mothers’ day
Parcelsofnaughtinessfor Special ways to spoil your mother CELEBRATE on top of the world by treating your mother to lunch at Panoramic restaurant, in Liverpool, this Sunday. At 300ft above sea-level with spectacular views over the city, the River Mersey, and up to five counties beyond, Panoramic is the UK’s highest restaurant. They will be serving a three-course lunch menu for £29.50, including roasted red pepper soup with tomato jelly, goat’s cheese and balsamic for starters and halibut with sauerkraut, red wine, salsify, beetroot and creamed potato for the main course. Puddings include banana cheesecake with raisin puree and salted popcorn ice cream. Restaurant manager Oliver Hawthorne says: “All three courses have
been carefully thought out by our chef director Chris Marshall, so that there is something there to suit the tastes of everyone. We have really gone to town on dessert, though, as Mothers’ Day is all about indulgence. Chef has put a tiramisu recipe on the menu that will simply blow you away, and the home- made popcorn ice cream served with the banana cheesecake has been painstakingly made with real butterscotch popcorn. A real treat for mum . . .” To reserve a table at Panoramic, call 0151 236 5534. OVER at the Hard Day’s Night Hotel, Blakes restaurant is
offering a three-course menu (£24.95) to tempt Beatle-mad mothers. Diners can choose from a range of options including succulent terrine of chicken, beer battered haddock with mushy peas and tartare sauce and sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce. Mike Dewey, hotel manager at The Hard Day’s Night Hotel, says: “Mothers’ Day is all about being spoilt and showing our mums how much we care. We’ve paid special attention to ensuring our diners can do just that.” More at www. harddaysnighthotel.com
special ’! S enjoy
unday S
3 course meal and entertainment with the fabulous Saxophonist & Singer Colin Muse.
Only £29.95 Available Mother’s Day, Sunday 14th March and e aster sunDay, Sunday 4th April bOOk nOw On:
0151 263 0363
stanley park anfield road liverpool l4 0td telephone: 0151 263 0363 info@theislagladstone.co.uk www.theislagladstone.co.uk
JadeWrightsamples indulgence itself inthe shape ofafternoon tea atPortSunlight’snew Edwardian tearooms
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ARLING little sandwiches, their crusts neatly removed, nestle alongside scones, heavy with dollops of jam and cream, while cakes stuffed with fruits, nuts and chocolate are counterpoised perfectly with delicate, refreshing tea. Afternoon tea is the perfect way to spoil your mum this Sunday. At the new Edwardian tea rooms, in Port Sunlight, Ceri Newton will make every mother feel extra special. “Afternoon tea is my favourite meal – little bits of everything naughty, all presented beautifully on a silver stand,” says mother-of-three Ceri, 45. “If I wasn’t working myself, it’s exactly the thing I’d love my children to treat me to.” But instead, Ceri will be presiding over a team of waitresses, all decked out in Edwardian finery. “It’s a lot of fun,” she smiles. “The staff dress up and get into the spirit of the place. They love it, and the customers seem to love it, too. “We’ve only been open for a few weeks, but already people are coming back.” That’s down, in no small part, to Ceri’s superb cakes. As well as the tea rooms, she also owns Gorge Us coffee shop, in Bebington. In 2007, she opened the tiny gourmet haven with the support – and hard physical labour – of husband Andrew. The shop has gone from strength to strength, building up a loyal band of customers. Ceri bakes the cakes on the premises, using local free range eggs. She also makes sandwiches, using bread delivered daily from a small independent bakery in Wallasey. All meats are baked on the premises and the soups and coleslaw are homemade. “It’s a little cottage industry,” she laughs. “I’m up at 5am every day to start baking. Cakes are my biggest passion. “Someone once gave me a great tip – never make cakes you wouldn’t want to eat, because you can’t put enough love into them. I don’t like fruit cake really, so I get someone else to do them, someone who really loves them.” Ceri’s afternoon teas hark back to the tea gardens of the early 18th century, the first Lyons tea houses and savouring the blissful ceremony of it all – right down to the china cup and saucer and tinkle of the stirring spoons. “We serve everything very traditionally,” says Ceri. “There are tiny finger sandwiches, open sandwiches, crumpets, cakes, scones with jam and cream, and of course, tea. It’s everything I love, all on a pretty silver stand.” ■ AFTERNOON tea is £10 at the Edwardian tea rooms and £8.50 in Gorge Us. Find out more on 0151 644 8133, email ceri@ gorge-us.co.uk or visit gorge-us.co.uk
Ceri’s signature Ras INGREDIENTS
FOR the pastry: 4oz plain flour, pinch salt, 2oz butter, cubed, 2-3 tbsp cold water. For the filling: 2 tbs raspberry conserve, oz butter, 4oz caster sugar, two large eggs, 4oz ground almonds, 2oz self-
Ceri’s Raspberry and Almond Tart
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Tuesday, March 9, 2010
menu
orMothers’Day
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PARTY planners and keen cooks will love this stylish recipe box, as it's hand-covered in one of Harris & Jones's signature prints and has blank recipe cards and loads of room for cuttings. Priced £25, by Harris & Jones, stockists 01908 587 858 or www.harrisand jones.co.uk CELEBRATE Mothers’ Day with the new Cuvee 225 Vintage Rosé, from Nicolas Feuillatte, which comes in an elegant presentation box. These fine pink bubbles have a delicious bouquet, bursting with red berries. Priced £59.99, from Nicolas Feuillatte, stockists www. vinopolis.co.uk
Ceri Newton in her Edwardian Tea Rooms, in Port Sunlight
Purchase: www.merseyshop.com/buyaphoto, 0845 300 3021 Pictures: PAUL HEAPS/ ph020310etearoom-5
OR SPOIL her with this Marvellous Mum selection from Hotel Chocolat, with Luxurious Pink Champagne Truffles, a selection of new season chocolates, a milk chocolate Goddess tablet, heart shaped lick, chocolate gemstones and a bottle of prosecco! Priced £40 (08444 931 313 or www.hotel chocolat.co.uk).
Moby Dick Village Road West Kirby, CH48 3JN Tel: 0151 625 4739 Open Every Day from 11.30am
Roast Carvery £4.50 Monday to Saturday Plus Specials Board with 12+ Special Meals Daily
spberry and Almond Tart
z
cupboard love
Sunday Carvery £6.50 (Children £4.50)
raising flour, half tsp almond extract, 6oz raspberries, fresh or frozen, icing sugar to dust.
METHOD 1. Put the flour and salt in a large bowl and add the cubes of butter. 2. Use your fingertips to rub the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse
breadcrumbs. 3. Using a knife, stir in just enough of the cold water to bind the dough together. 4. Wrap the dough in clingfilm. Chill for 10 -15 mins before using. 5. Preheat the oven to 180°C and place a baking tray in the oven to preheat. 6. Line a 7-inch loosebottomed flan tin with the rolled-out pastry, spread the
conserve onto the pastry case. Set aside. 7. Cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, add the eggs one at a time until wellblended. Add a spoonful of flour with each egg to prevent curdling. 8. Fold in the ground almonds, flour and almond extract. Spoon the mixture into the pastry case.
Arrange the raspberries around the tart, pushing each one slightly down into the mixture. 9. Place on the heated baking tray and bake for approx 30 minutes until brown and springy to the touch. 10. Leave to cool, remove from the tin and dust with icing sugar.
£1.00 off
Moby Roast Carvery Voucher
Monday to Friday (12 noon to 7pm) Maximum 4 Carvery Meals with this voucher (one voucher per booking) Valid till 19th March 2010
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Tuesday, March 9, 2010
menu
eating out
Dining with thedevilinAughton JadeWrightsamples Sunday lunch at Marco Pierre White’s neweaterie, The SwanInn,atAughton
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HEN I heard that Marco Pierre White was opening up a restaurant nearby, I’ll admit I was excited. For all the region’s food producing credentials, our celebrity chefs are somewhat thin on the ground. So to have the devil in the kitchen plying his trade in Aughton seemed too good to be true. So I waited, and I waited. And eventually The Swan Inn re-opened, with Marco at the helm. Admittedly, he’s not hands on in the kitchen, but he’s designed the menu, and the place has his special stamp of approval. Anywhere that the fiery chef will put his name to has to be something special, or so I hoped. But would my meal be a sizzling affair, or would average food and skyhigh prices leave a nasty taste in my mouth? There was only one way to find out. I headed out for Sunday lunch to see for myself. As we drew up in the car park, Marco’s name was everywhere. He may not be in the kitchen, but he’s certainly on the hoardings, and the menu, and the walls. We had booked for 2pm, and I was surprised to be one of the few diners in there. But as we ordered our drinks – a pint of Peroni (£3.50) and a bottle of sparkling water (£1.50 ) – I quickly realised why that might be. Unless you lived just round the corner or fancied a massive hike home, someone in the party would always have to sacrifice drinking for the pleasure of eating. This time, I was designated driver. But, after one look at the range of mouthwatering options, I didn’t feel too hard done by. And as one course is £10, two courses £13.50 and three £17.50, it seemed rude not to go the whole hog. There was Morecambe Bay Potted Shrimps, Trough of Bowland Rabbit Pie, Roast Loin of Gloucestershire Old Spot Pork, Bramley Apple Sauce, Hesketh Bank Carrots, Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Wellington of Yorkshire Red Leg Partridge... the only thing missing was a vegetarian option. On the starters menu, there was Jerusalem artichoke soup, and plenty to choose from on the puddings, but not a single non-carnivorous option to be seen. Suddenly, I remembered that moment on Hell’s Kitchen . . . “I don’t feed vegetarians, I won’t cook for them.” Perplexed, I asked our waiter, expecting the worst. Thankfully, he laughed. Of course they do vegetarian options – would I prefer a wild mushroom risotto or a puff pastry tart with sundried tomatoes?
Inside the restaurant
Facts for the foodies The Swan Inn, Springfield Rd, Aughton, Ormskirk L39 6ST Contact: 01695 421450 or info@mpwtheswan.co.uk Bill: £53 Service: Excellent. Very friendly and helpful. Value for money: Excellent. A real surprise for a restaurant with a celebrity chef’s name attached.
Marco Pierre White at his new restaurant, The Swan, in Aughton, near Ormskirk Relieved, I chose the tart, with the soup to start. My date, with the full menu at his disposal, opted for potted shrimps for a starter and traditional roast beef with Yorkshire pudding for his main course. By this point the restaurant was starting to fill up, creating a pleasing buzz. Clearly there are others out there who like good food more than a drink. The decor is town meets country, with political cartoons dotted around the grey walls, and exposed brickwork alongside modern furniture. The starter arrived before we’d had chance to pause for breath, delivered with a smile from the friendly staff. And what a starter it was. The artichoke soup was a divinely
Forget Hell’s Kitchen. This is culinary heaven
velvety broth, retaining the best of the vegetable’s sweet and nutty flavour. Sitting beside it was a doorstep of chewy, moist homemade brown bread, packed with walnuts. It was so good that we immediately ordered another basket full (£1.50) to share. The shrimps were tiny and packed with flavour, served with crispy toast. Looking around at the starters going to other tables, it was probably the smallest dish on the menu, but, given the massive main course portion that followed, this was a blessing, rather than a shortcoming. And we were certainly glad we had saved room for our main courses. My tomato tartlet was delicious – flaky pastry, tangy tomatoes and peppery rocket. The staff later told me they’d improvised the recipe, but I’d never have guessed. A dish that good deserves to be on the main menu. The roast beef was, to put it simply, enormous. A huge helping of
meat, served pink, adorned with roast potatoes, mashed potatoes, baby carrots and green beans. There was a small grumble that there was no gravy with the roast, the meat was juicy enough but there was nothing for the Yorkshire pudding. But given the quality of our meals – and the unexpectedly reasonable prices – we had nothing that would make a real whinge. Except, maybe that choosing a pudding was almost impossible. Asking a sweet tooth like me to choose between Cambridge Burnt Cream, Box Tree Eton Mess Sticky Toffee Pudding and lemon syllabub is verging on cruelty. My cheese-obsessed companion had no problem at all, and opted for Marco’s selection of Lancashire Cheeses with quince jelly. We ordered a couple of coffees (£2.50) to go with our final courses and prepared for another treat.
Like the other courses, our puds arrived super quickly. My syllabub was heaven in a dish – soft, creamy and deliciously tangy. But it was the cheese that was the real star. The plate arrived packed with big slabs of Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire and white Blacksticks blue, served with a tall stack of different Jacob’s crackers, quince jelly, and what we could only deduce were grapes pickled in vinegar. The blacksticks blue atop a digestive cracker was a taste sensation, reminding us just how good our local produce is. The only disappointment was the coffee. Halfway through our puddings, we enquired on its progress. We were assured it was on its way. A quarter of an hour afterwards, when the plates had long been cleared away, we asked again. The staff were contrite, and fetched it immediately. Not just two cups, but a whole pot – so, what it lacked in timekeeping, it made up for in quantity. But that was a tiny grumble about an otherwise faultless meal. The food was excellent, the service a dream. Forget Hell’s Kitchen. This is culinary heaven.
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Tuesday, March 9, 2010
the wine list
menu
Mathew Sloane
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NINSPIRED, wretched and assured of nought but inevitable entropy and sporadic heartache. This is how it feels to have endured my least favourite months at the beginning of a new decade. The despicable weather hasn't helped, but one can hardly expect much in the way of sunshine during the gruesome twosome of January and February. Winter can't last forever. Finally, with a triumphant shout and a stamping of feet, the accomplished and decadent foot soldiers under my haphazard command declared an end to winter, an end to depression and insisted an assault upon the city that we may devour fine plates of excellent cuisine, ably married with lashings of superlative dancing soup. Nestled in the hustle and bustle of our rather majestic Castle Street, is a secret gem of a restaurant that I'm almost afraid to mention. Should I ever find
myself unable to secure a table at Franco's Bar Italia, I promise, there will be much cursing and threats of severe violence. I’d only popped into this suave little bistro on one previous occasion, a swift and excellent plate of cannelloni, consumed in half decent company with a quick swig or two of a rather nice Salice Salentino. On this mighty occasion, however, I was entering into a bit of a face-off with some long-standing pals who have the innate ability to turn a spot of tea into a three-day excursion. A couple of swift pints and some heavy metal in The Swan, Wood Street, set us up royally for a fullblown assault on Franco’s menu. A cheeky first course of antipasti and a few cold Peronis led us into one of the finest starters I’ve ever eaten. Immaculately seared scallops with some chilli and a slap of garlic were hammered down with a blinding Gavi id Gavi – the crazily fresh Cortese juice slicing right through the scallops and putting us in a universe threatening good mood.
Armed and ready for action, we called out the big gun and ordered a 2004 Amarone alongside our steaks. Amarone is made from partially dried grapes and packs a big, fruity, full-bodied uppercut and needs a big flavoursome dish – the steaks were not to be outshouted and, at this point, my comrades and I declared ourselves masters of all creation and started thinking about cocktails. A swift bolt of some delightful vin santo, a friendly handshake with our excellent waiter and lord of the manor himself, Franco, and off we stomped, to the good old Noble House for some serious liquor. Head Bartender and part-time wrestler, Conor Foley, mixed us a cocktail which I have to declare as the country's if not the world's finest. A blend of Rittenhouse rye whisky, outrageous antique vermouth, bacon-infused maple syrup, atomised Lagavulin, 16-year old Islay malt and a dash of ingenious wizardry combine to create the Ellis Island Manhattan. If you do nothing else this month, go and see this Irish madman, demand an Ellis Island, pair it with an ice-cold beer and prepare to write off a weekend. Conor, or somebody, probably one of the maniacs, then insisted we muck about with some 63%rum. Miraculously, none of us were arrested and one or two of us managed to come home to the correct addresses. My thanks and undying gratitude to Mr Foley for assisting us in our quest, such is the quality of his drinks that even my hangover was first class.
best bar none
The Magnet, on Hardman Street IT MAY be more than 50 years old but The Magnet, on Hardman Street, remains one of Liverpool’s best-loved venues. In the early days, the bar upstairs was known as the Rumblin’ Tum, while the basement club was The Sink and it was originally one of the city centre’s first black venues. Even back then – when it was soul, Motown and jazz which kept the place rocking – it was famed for its live music; a rich tradition which is as strong as ever these days. A Tardis of a venue, hundreds of people pack into Magnet every weekend, although looking through the window
you would be forgiven for thinking it’s a 1950s American diner. Short tables and stools line one wall, and only the pumps and optics give it away as a bar/ club. The clientele features all ages and walks of life, with the music most nights reflecting this, and, with a Funktion One sound system downstairs, whatever they play is going to make you want to shake your thing. ■ MAGNET Bar and Live Music Venue, 45, Hardman Street, Liverpool, Merseyside, L1 9AS. Tel: 0151 709 7560
Franco’s Ristorante Where Italians love to eat
Serving the best Italian cuisine for 25 years
SPECIAL EVENING MENU IDEAL FOR SMALL WEDDINGS
3 Course
£17.95 per person
includes half a bottle of House Wine per couple Tues-Sat all evening
Also available for Business Lunches • Birthdays • Parties • Celebrations • Office Functions. Mon-Fri 11.30am-3.00pm. Tuesday-Sat 5.30pm-11.00pm 48a Castle Street, Liverpool - Tel: 0151 236 3375 Fax: 0151 236 7260 www.baritalialiverpool.com
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Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Jalons Bridewell presents . . .
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We also cater for Weddings, Conferences and Function Parties Visit us at wwwjalonsbridewell.co.uk or Facebook Jalons Bridewell • All posters designed by Lisa Hughes 07929 229063