menu THE DAILY POST FOOD & DRINK GUIDE OCTOBER 2010
Game for anything 60 Hope Street joins the partridge family
GENTLEMEN’S AFTERNOON TEA LA BOHEME COOKING WITH CHESTNUTS
DAILY POST Tuesday, October 19, 2010
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Tuesday, October 19, 2010
menu
chef’s table
Ontopoftheirgame
JadeWrightmeets theteamputting gamebackonthe menuinLiverpool’s restaurants
O
NCE considered the preserve of stuffy old men in stuffier tweed suits, game is enjoying something of a renaissance on restaurant menus. The ultimate seasonal meat feast, it includes rabbit, venison, partridge and pheasant. The meat is low in fat and, given that the animals are wild, couldn't be much more free range. The flavour is, admittedly, characteristic (OK, pretty strong), but cooked well, it can be delicious. “Game is wild, natural and free range with a distinctive flavour making it a great alternative to beef, pork, lamb and chicken,” explains Paul Hevey, owner of Lakes Speciality Food, game suppliers to some of Liverpool’s finest restaurants, including 60 Hope Street and Puschka. Lakes Speciality Foods is one of the fastest growing meat companies in England. Their master butchers have more than two centuries’ worth of experience among the farming, meat and catering industry sectors. “As it’s low in cholesterol and high in protein, game is one of the healthiest meats available,” continues Paul. “For example, venison, with its extra lean meat, is perfect for anyone on a low fat diet.” And, as Paul explains, this time of year is the best time to try it. “Game can only be shot during specific times of the years,” he says. “Grouse can only be shot between August 12, the Glorious Twelfth, and December 10, pheasant from October 1 to February 1, and so on. At the moment you get it at its best, but increasingly frozen game meat is available year round.” The last year has seen an increase in the popularity of game on Merseyside restaurant menus and delicatessens. “Game has become very fashionable on menus as it’s seasonal, it has a natural appeal,” says Paul. “Consumers are now starting to try something different as our taste buds are looking for something different. “Game has seen an increasing demand, and is now available in all sectors of the supply chain, and especially when bought from local
Dan Weston and Paul Hevey, of Lakes Speciality Foods, Staveley, Cumbria, supply game to a number of Liverpool restaurants
Roastvenisonwithportandredcurrantsauce Ingredients One rack of venison, ideally with 7-8 cutlets, Olive oil Dijon mustard Freshly ground black pepper 1 tbsp juniper berries, crushed 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 290ml red wine/port 4 good tbsp good quality redcurrant jelly or cranberry sauce
butchers or supermarkets in pre-cut portioned packs – it gives consumers the chance to try something easy to cook at home. “Venison steaks, game bird breasts are easy places to start. Whole birds, though easy to cook, can be a little
2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce Zest and juice of an orange Method Spread 1 tbsp mustard over the venison. Mix together the pepper, crushed juniper berries and cloves of garlic and press into the mustard. Place the racks in a roasting tin and seal on a high heat in the top of
difficult to eat or carve. Apart from the usual casseroles, breasts, whole birds and portions – chefs are now creating different recipes such as terrines, soups, gamekeeper’s pies and meat toppings for pasta.” As well as eating more game, it seems more people are trying their hand at shooting it, too. “The sport of game shooting has become increasingly popular, and the
the oven at 200°C/Gas 6 for 7-8 mins. Lower the heat to 180°C/Gas 4 and cook the venison racks for a further 15-20 mins. Remove from the oven and allow to stand for 10 mins. Pour off the cooking juices. Port & Redcurrant Sauce Place the reserved
gentlemen’s club and country exclusive attitude has radically disappeared in the last decade. “Some of the best shots are now women, and it’s not uncommon to see women standing at shoots next to men and holding their own.” As a strong flavour, game should be pared with equally robust wines. At the game evening at 60 Hope Street last week, Gary Manning paired Lakes Speciality Foods’ game
cooking juices in a saucepan. Add the red wine and port mix, bring to the boil and reduce by a third. Whisk in the redcurrant jelly, Worcestershire sauce, mustard and orange zest and juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Simmer for 10 mins and serve, with seasonal vegetables and a good strong red wine.
with full-bodied red wines: “Sometimes whisky is used to flavour the sauce or cooking,” says Paul. “But, like everything, it comes down to taste. Cider has become a popular addition.” ■ 60 HOPE Street, Liverpool, 0151 707 6060, email info@60hopestreet.com. ■ PUSCHKA, 16 Rodney St, Liverpool L1 2TE, 0151 708 8698.
4
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
afternoon tea
Whygentlemenprefera JadeWrightmeetsthechapsrevivingthespirit ofthegentleman’sclub,withagourmettwist
I
Novotel has added a gourmet twist to its Gentlemen’s Lunch
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A Great Value Day Excursion 18 December 2010, from Manchester Airport Come bring the whole family to Lapland, the home of Santa Claus, and enjoy a fun-filled and festive time in a magical Winter Wonderland . . . Price includes: • Return flight from Manchester to Rovaniemi & airport taxes • Hot buffet lunch, airport transfers and use of thermal clothing • The chance to meet Santa Claus • Participation in all activities offered including snowmobiles, toboggan rides, reindeer drawn sleigh rides, husky dog drives and walks in the snowy woods Please note: due to the cold temperatures in the Arctic Circle, travel to Lapland is not advised for any children under 3 years old.
For further information and a FREE brochure call:
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T’S hard to beat the pleasure of afternoon tea with in its splendour – tiny crustless sandwiches, fresh scones with clotted cream and jam, chocolate-dipped strawberries and a glass of Champagne. This great British tradition is enjoying a huge revival, with ladies who lunch eager to spread out the fun long into the afternoon. But how about the chaps? Surely all those dainty finger sandwiches and thimble-sized china cups are just too feminine for those alpha males out there? Well, it seems that’s not the case any more, and the sophisticated man-about-town is as likely to be seen ordering a bespoke afternoon tea as downing a double espresso in a coffee shop. In response, the Chester Grosvenor has launched an afternoon tea for gentlemen where hearty fare, strong tea and good male company are on the menu. The Arkle Bar and Lounge hosts discerning menfolk keen to enjoy afternoon tea with a distinctive masculine slant for £23.50 per person. They’ve ousted the traditional feminine finger food and delicate French pastries in favour of crusty doorstep sandwiches and chunky chips. Classic afternoon tea turned on its head, offering a range of whiskies, as well as Champagne. There’s a gourmet cheese platter, alongside hearty beef and horseradish, chicken or egg mayonnaise sandwiches. Restaurant manager Mark Bevan said: “Afternoon tea is a firm favourite with groups of female friends and daughters who treat their mums. But we think there’s a definite appetite for an afternoon tea tailored to our male customers, too, so we’ve let the men muscle in on this hotel favourite. “The men at the Grosvenor got their heads together and come up with their ideal menu of things they’d like to eat at Afternoon Tea. Thick slabs of fruit cake and really strong Appleby’s Cheddar were high on the list, as were thickcut sandwiches. “Gentlemen have always enjoyed our traditional afternoon tea, but this is an alternative for them. It’s a perfect opportunity to treat your devoted dad or get together with your male friends in a relaxing but masculine environment.” Pastry chef Luke Frost cooks up homemade rich fruit cake and rocky road crunch bars to cater for a male appetite. A selection of newspapers is available for chaps to peruse, and a backgammon set will be available for gentleman with a competitive streak. But, in a surprise turn, women have been eschewing the traditional afternoon tea in place of the new gentlemen’s menu. “The ladies love our afternoon tea for gentlemen – you don’t have to be a man to order it,” laughs Mark.
“We have one lady who comes in once a week and always orders the gentlemen’s version. It’s something a bit different and because it’s a bit more savoury than sweet and it has chips with it, it’s been a real hit. “We had no idea that it would be this popular – it’s exceeded our expectations. Our female customers tell us that because there’s an afternoon tea option for their boyfriends, husbands or other male companions, they really enjoy coming with them instead of leaving them at home.” In Liverpool city centre, the Novotel has launched its Men’s Afternoon Tea for today’s heteropolitan man about town. Heteropolitan? I hear you ask. Yes, I had to look it up, too. Apparently this is a new breed of new man – neither lager-loving sexists obsessed with football nor excessively moisturised effeminates. This is the kind of chap who’s expected at the Novotel’s men’s networking events, which begin next month. There, he’ll quaff mint and cranberry wellness shooters while enjoying a range of masculine finger food including smoked salmon and lemon mascarpone mille feuille, cured beef and horseradish bruschetta and grilled artichoke and ham frittata with a confit of vine tomato, served with a selection of posh sandwiches, chips and salads. If that’s all too healthy, there are two puddings each, including profiteroles and chocolate brownies. Geniene Reese, business development manager at Novotel, explains: “I’m all in favour of men only networking events. In fact, I’m surprised they haven't been organised before now as women's networking has been popular for some time That said, I see this Heteropolitan initiative launching at our hotel as men acknowledging that, just as they enjoy being together in the pub watching, say, football at the weekends. “The only difference is that they'll be indulging in surroundings conducive to doing deals, with crisps and nuts being substituted for more refined eating, plus a glass of Cava or a whisky as a special toast to winning new business.” So, whether it’s a business meeting, a treat for your partner or even a Christmas gift, tea with the boys has never been so suave. ■ AFTERNOON Tea for Gentlemen is served at the Grosvenor between noon and 4.30pm daily. Add a tipple, such as an Eastgate Ale or a gin and tonic, to have alongside your tea for just £32.50. For reservations, please contact Ann Wiggins on 01244 895618 or e-mail: restaurants@chestergrosvenor.com. ■ MEN’S Afternoon Tea and Networking launches at Novotel Liverpool on Wednesday, November 24, at 5pm. Tickets are £12.95 per person for the standard package, £14.95 with Champagne and £18.95 with select whisky. To book tickets, email guestlist@ubiquitypr.co.uk or call 0151 703 0917
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Tuesday, October 19, 2010
afternoontea
menu
cupboard love CHEAT your way to gourmet with Heston Blumenthal’s new Waitrose range. This Vanilla Mayonnaise (£3 for 210g) has to be tasted to be believed. Heston says: “This is a wonderfully fragrant mayonnaise, flecked with Madagascan vanilla seeds.” We couldn’t agree more. MAKE the most of autumn produce with homemade sloe gin and cordials. There's something appealingly old-fashioned about this pair of bottles (£3.99 each from Lakeland), which hark back to days gone by. Perfect for home-made lemonade, ginger ale and sloe gin, or herb-infused oils and vinaigrettes.
Not just for men! The Gentlemen’s Afternoon Tea at Liverpool’s Novotel has been a hit with female diners, too
THE new cassis Le Creuset cast-iron collection has arrived at John Lewis. Each piece is hand-crafted in an individual sand mould to ensure durability. It’s not cheap, ranging from £76-£116 per item, but with a lifetime guarantee you’ll certainly get plenty of use out of it for years to come.
£50 Reward voucher for Christmas Party Bookings Recipe: Rocky road crunch bars INGREDIENTS 125g/4½oz soft unsalted butter 300g/10½oz best-quality dark chocolate, broken into pieces 3 tbsp golden syrup 200g/7¼oz rich tea biscuits 100g/3½oz mini marshmallows 2 tsp icing sugar, to dust METHOD Heat the butter, chocolate
and golden syrup in a heavy-based saucepan over a gentle heat. Remove from the heat, scoop out about 125ml/4½fl oz of the melted mixture and set aside in a bowl. Place the biscuits into a plastic freezer bag and smash them with a rolling pin until some have turned to crumbs but there are still larger pieces of biscuit remaining too. Fold the biscuit pieces and crumbs into the
melted chocolate mixture in the saucepan, then add the marshmallows. Tip the mixture into a 24cm/9in square baking tin and smooth the top with a wet spatula. Pour over the remaining 125ml/4½fl oz of the melted chocolate mixture and smooth the top with a wet spatula. Refrigerate for about two hours or overnight. To serve, cut into 12 large or 24 small fingers and dust with icing sugar. Enjoy . . .
Bookings now being taken! Call 0151 705 3005 for further details www.sapporo.co.uk
Terms & Conditions: For all Christmas Party bookings of 10 or more, the party organiser will receive a £50 Reward voucher to dine with us in January 2011. Bookings must be confirmed by 31st October 2010 to qualify for £50 Reward voucher. This £50 Reward voucher is only available for Sapporo Liverpool bookings and cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or discount. Quote ‘Daily Post’ at the time of booking.
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Tuesday, October 19, 2010
menu
eating out
The artof Sunday lunch
TinaMilesdecidesto stopwaitingfora specialoccasionto experiencethefine FrenchfoodatLymm’s LaBoheme
T
HERE is a danger that Sunday lunch can become somewhat of a chore, with time spent either slaving away at home in front of a hot stove or visiting the (safe but not very adventurous) local pub. So, for anyone who wants to take their meal to another (fabulous) level, you can’t go far wrong with a visit to La Boheme, in Lymm. I had heard a lot of great things about the cuisine at this familyowned restaurant, which is led by Olivier Troalen, the head chef, and his wife Adele. But every time my fiance and I had talked about dining at the elegant eatery in leafy Cheshire, we promised to book for a special occasion. We had never considered it as somewhere to pop out to on a Sunday. That was until last week. Our visit came about after receiving an email from my best friend. You know the ones that are circulated and encourage the receiver to forward it on to friends and family. This time, it was advice passed on from supposedly a 90-year-old American woman who had compiled 45 lessons life had taught her. I have to admit I don’t normally take much notice of those kind of emails, but there at number 21 was “Burn the candles, use the nice sheets, wear the fancy lingerie. Don’t save it for a special occasion. Today is special.” Surely that applied to restaurants, too? So, with that in mind, I made a reservation for our Sunday lunch at La Boheme. I was pleased we had booked in advance because when we arrived the restaurant was bustling. We were pleasantly surprised to see every diner was given the Le “Sunday Menu” to order from, which started at a very reasonable £14.50 for two courses. It seemed wrong to come all this way and not try the delicious desserts we had heard about, so we opted for the three-course deal at £18.50 per person. The menu had a strong French influence and was made up of eight starters and eight main course options – most of which we would have been happy to order. The menu runs from noon to 9pm on Sundays and during our visit dishes included pan fried lamb rump, creamy wild mushroom risotto, grilled fillet of seabass and Gressingham duck breast. We arrived just minutes before our preferred time of 7pm, and we were greeted by a friendly woman who said our table was ready and asked if we were happy to be seated. There was just one dish off the menu that evening, which was
Food at La Boheme, in Lymm, has a strong French influence
La Boheme Food Facts LA BOHEME, 3 Mill Lane, Heatley, Lymm, Cheshire, WA13 9SD. Tel: 01925 753657 www.laboheme.co.uk Interior: Elegant and welcoming. Dim lighting gives the restaurant a cosy feel. There is also a separate bar area. Service: The young staff offer a friendly and attentive service. Disabled access: Yes Value: The Le “Sunday Menu” is excellent value for money. Top quality meal produced with fresh ingredients.
The fabulous family-owned restaurant La Boheme, in Lymm, Cheshire, presents traditional French cuisine for a special occasion or just as a treat salmon, and I was impressed this was announced on the board in the bar area and was reiterated to us at front of house (to prevent those frustrating moments when you have to select another dish after ordering). Within minutes, we had chosen our drinks and were going through the menu. I ordered Salade Boheme, which consisted of pieces of grilled Cajun chicken, sun-dried tomatoes and strips of bacon. I wouldn’t ordinarily order a salad as a starter but I was glad I did. The chicken was succulent and the bacon was nice and crispy. The meat came on a bed of fresh salad leaves bound in a tasty Boheme Caesar dressing. It was garnished with parmesan, which added to the flavour, and small crunchy croutons. I’m not usually a fan of croutons but
‘Don’t save it for a special occasion. Today is special’
I enjoyed them and they added to the texture of the dish. My partner went for the Fromage De Chevre A La Nicoise – that’s grilled goat’s cheese on ciabatta bread to you and I. Before it arrived, he joked I couldn’t share it, but it was so appetising he had polished off the lot before I even had a chance to ask for a taste. The starter was served on a bed of chilled chargrilled vegetables with a sweet honey and basil dressing. As well as the flavourful dishes, we also noted how meticulously presented they were. The portion sizes weren’t over-facing and they whet our appetites for what was to come. For the main course, I was torn between four or five of the options. But by the time my meal arrived I was more than satisfied with my choice. My 8oz rib eye steak came with a generous serving of creamy pepper
sauce and was cooked exactly to my liking (medium to well done). The steak could not have been better – it was tender and was served on top of a deep fried potato roulade and a small portion of chunky seasonal vegetables. There was an extra £2 for this dish, which was on the menu as Steak Au Poivre, but it was well worth the extra pounds. My other half ’s roasted pork fillet looked terrific. He was originally tempted by the lamb, but had seen the meal being served to a nearby table and had discreetly asked our helpful waitress which dish it was. After she obligingly checked the order with the kitchen, she reported back it was the Roulade de Porc Aux Fruits Aromatiques. The pork was stuffed with aromatic fruits and wrapped in smoked bacon and tasted as good as it looked.
Bill: For two with soft drinks and tea, £50.
The meat was perfectly complemented by the red cabbage and caramelised shallot jus and a potato cake also accompanied the dish. But the star of the meal for us, who both have a sweet tooth, was the desserts. My fiance was swayed by his favourite and ordered the sticky toffee pudding. He said the dessert, which was served with honeycomb ice cream and toffee sauce, was great comfort food. Again, I couldn’t decide between a few options but I went for the chocolate platter for chocolate lovers. My eyes lit up when the rich chocolate tart, Ferrero Rocher ice cream and profiteroles garnished with chocolate sauce was put in front of me. It was a delicious end to a superb meal. And I decided this food was not something to be reserved just for special occasions.
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Tuesday, October 19, 2010
chestnuts
menu best bar none
The interior of The Shipping Forecast, on Slater Street Pictures: GAVIN TRAFFORD
Chestnuts are now in season, and taste great in this chestnut bourguignon pie
Makethemostof theseoldchestnuts T
HE schoolboys may be knocking the last of the conkers from the trees, and lazily kicking the leaves underneath in the hope of finding one or two unclaimed, but for seasonal foodies the real treat lies not in the horse chestnuts, but in their sweeter, edible cousins. For, while conkers are inedible, sweet chestnuts are a gourmet autumn treat. The French devour marron glacé, and in London, street sellers roast them in open braziers and sell them in paper bags. But for a real treat, try harvesting your own, and baking them in a hot oven, or in the embers of an open fire. Late October is a great time to go on the hunt as the chestnuts are at their ripest, but make sure you take thick gloves – the shells are pricklier than conkers and will puncture even the toughest of hands. They are usually slightly smaller than those brought from the Continent into the supermarkets. They can be stored for Christmas and, best of all, won’t cost you a penny. Indeed, their use as a food source is why they dot our landscape: the Romans brought the sweet chestnut to Britain to provide a ready supply of chestnut flour, which was a staple of the legionaries’ diet. Be careful not to confuse the nuts with conkers. Sweet chestnuts are in a hairy-looking pod, covered in needle-like spikes, whereas inedible conkers have a thick, smooth shell with shorter, rounder spikes. While you’re out, the Woodland Trust in Merseyside is appealing for the public to help them find the county’s oldest trees, so it can lobby for greater protection and monitor current threats. So far, two sweet chestnut trees have been recorded in Merseyside, with the largest – having a girth of six metres –
Chestnut Bourguignon pie from The Vegetarian Society Preparation time: 30 mins to 1 hour. Cooking time: 1 to 2 hours. Serves 4
Why not try going foraging for your own chestnuts? found in Calderstones Park, Allerton. Edward Parker, the Ancient Tree Hunt project manager at the Woodland Trust, says: “We know there will be many more out there, so are urging people to help us gain more data. Ancient sweet chestnuts have distinctively twisted, spiral-like trunks when they grow old, so they are easily recognisable to the public, especially at this time of the year while the nuts are available. It’s also a great way of stocking up on free food for traditional autumn or Christmas dishes with the family.” Debra Williams, Woodland Trust volunteer from Liverpool, adds: “Foraging is fantastic fun and would make a great day’s activity over halfterm; and you’ll be doing a very worthwhile job if you can find some ancient sweet chestnut trees at the same time. It’s a huge task to find all the UK’s ancient trees, but until we know where they are it’s difficult for the Woodland Trust to protect them.” ■ TO FIND out how to spot an ancient tree and to register it on the Ancient Tree Hunt website, please visit www.ancient treehunt.org.uk by JADE WRIGHT
Ingredients 125g/4oz dried chestnuts, soaked for 6-8 hours 2 bay leaves 1 sprig fresh rosemary or 1 tsp/5ml dried rosemary 210ml/7fl oz vegetarian red wine 300ml/10fl oz vegetable stock or water 25g/1oz butter or soya margarine 8 small pickling onions or shallots, peeled 125g/4oz chestnut mushrooms, wiped 125g/4oz button mushrooms, wiped 2 tsp Dijon mustard 2-3 tbsp tamari or soy sauce Freshly ground black pepper Fresh parsley, finely chopped 225g/8oz vegetarian puff pastry, thawed if frozen Pre-heat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6. Method Place the soaked chestnuts, herbs and 150ml/5fl oz of wine in a saucepan with vegetable stock to cover and cook until just tender – approximately 50-60 minutes. Drain the chestnuts, reserving the liquid. Melt the butter in a frying pan and sauté the onions until slightly browned. Add the mushrooms and cook for a further 4-5 minutes. Add the chestnuts, the remaining red wine and sufficient chestnut cooking liquor to cover. Bring to the boil and simmer for 20-30 minutes to reduce the liquid a little. Stir in the mustard, tamari and black pepper to taste. Cook for a further 5 minutes. Check seasoning and adjust as necessary. Spoon the mixture into a pie dish. Roll out the pastry on a floured surface and place on top of filling. Bake for about 20 minutes until golden.
cocktails, split up into mojito, BE WARNED! The suited and mule and Mary’s categories, at booted are frowned upon at the slightly high price of £5.95, the Shipping Forecast, writes and an impressive list of LUKE TRAYNOR. bottled beers, although not That “just-left-the-office” everything on the menu is look just doesn’t wash with the actually available in the lads on the door of Slater fridges. Street’s latest nightspot. I’ve heard good things about It was a dress code some of the Mexican Pacifico, but that my work colleagues fell foul of was missing, which was a on a recent leaving do when shame, although the their crisp collars and cufflinks chocolatey Brooklyn lager just didn’t pass muster. eased the blow. The official line is the At 9pm on Saturday, when Shipping Forecast management we arrived, the bar was want to promote an easygoing, pleasantly busy without being relaxed student vibe. too rammed. Surprisingly, by It appears to work with a 11pm, numbers young, had dropped off unpretentious considerably. crowd in this But once the haunt which midnight bell has gone tolled, punters under many rolled in off the guises in street, cardigans recent years. and trainers on the Flares, blokes and heels Guynans, and on the ladies, and Wonderbar it’s a good few are the past minutes’ wait to monikers that get served at the come to mind bar. for this Another plus for prominent the bar is its late bar at the tendency to link heart of up with big Liverpool’s Liverpool club nightlife. nights like But this is Chibuku, Circus an The Shipping Forecast, and Evol and altogether Slater Street, Liverpool acclaimed city DJs different are primed to take the stage in beast. coming months. It’s very cool inside with a So, why the Shipping USA-diner feel evidenced by Forecast? The only pointer from the old-fashioned long hanging our visit is the rather bizarre spotlamps, the Art-Deco Radio 4-style nautical wooden sideboard, transistor commentary coming over the radios on the shelves and the speakers in the toilets. open-hatch serving stations Well, that’s what the missus which whack out good staple reported, anyhow. Maybe the bar food at a rate of knots. gents would have a slightly The best comparison of The different seafaring theme. Shipping Forecast, in terms of Early in the night, drinkers its clientele and surroundings, traipse inside from the Slater is an old Korova with a slightly Street entrance, but as the more stylish customer. hours progress, that door is No disrespect to Slater closed and access is only Street, which definitely holds gained by an inconspicuous its colourful place on the door up one of the side streets. Liverpool nightlife scene, but It’s where the no-suit rule this bar seems something of a bouncers roam, so think on. departure for this part of town, with the emphasis more on ■ THE Shipping Forecast, 15 relaxed drinking than Slater Street Liverpool L1 4BW. helter-skelter boozing. Tel: 0151 709 6901 There’s a good list of
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Tuesday, October 19, 2010