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menu THE DAILY POST FOOD & DRINK GUIDE September 2010

Sweet success Sex and the City chic on our own doorstep

NEW RESTAURANT MATHEW SLOANE LIVERPOOL COOK BOOK

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

food and wine

Simplythebest JadeWrightdipsintothe cookerybookthat highlightslocalbrilliance

ERSEYSIDE’S food and drink scene is the envy of the North West. With superb local produce and some of the best chefs in the country, our reputation continues to thrive. Now a new cookery book celebrates the best of the city’s restaurants. The Liverpool Cook Book has all the ingredients of a modern recipe book, but serves up so much more, whetting the appetite with a real taste of the vibrancy that has shaped the city as a diverse multi-cultural hotpot of flavours. From the farmers’ Marco markets, generations of Pierre White shrimp potters, chocolatiers, and keepers of legendary home-made ice cream recipes to the Michelin-starred chefs and the feeders of princes and Prime Ministers, there are dishes for every palate. Also drawing inspiration from the latest delis and the trendiest foodies in town, the book celebrates a world in one city. Featuring exclusive recipes from Jamie Oliver and Marco Pierre White and Liz Liverpool celebrities, McClarnon including the 2009 BBC Masterchef winner Liz McClarnon, the book explores how readers can get their hands on the delicious home-grown produce that feeds the top restaurants, to use in their own dishes. “Merseyside is a fabulous place with an indelible link to international trade and an eclectic flavour of the personalities to match,” says Marco Pierre White. “The dining scene here is thriving, Jamie with a handful of fine Oliver restaurants serving very good food, as well as a variety of top class producers.” ■ THE Liverpool Cook Book is available from www.merseyshop.com, RRP £14.99, or call 0845 143 0001

Marco Pierre White's Sherry trifle Wally Ladd

Wally Ladd Sherry trifle, by Marco Pierre White (serves 6) HERE is a classic dish from the Godfather of modern cooking. This take on a traditional dessert is one of Marco Pierre White’s signature puddings. And it's a nod to Wally Ladd, a chef who worked at the Connaught many years ago. Ingredients: 18 discs of 5mm thick sponge, chopped roasted almonds and pistachios, 340g jar black cherry jam, 150ml medium sherry, 12 egg yolks, 200g caster sugar, 500ml whole milk, 1 tbsp custard powder For the crème Chantilly: 500ml

double cream, 100g caster sugar, 3-4 drops vanilla essence Method: 1. Mix the jam and 100ml of the sherry in a pan and gently bring to the boil. Once the mixture has begun to boil, allow to cool. 2. Combine the egg yolks, sugar and custard powder in a bowl. 3. In a separate pan, bring the milk to the boil and pour over the egg mixture. 4. Whisk together and return to the pan. 5. Slowly cook the mixture over a low heat, stirring continuously until thick and allow to cool.

6. For the crème Chantilly, whisk the cream, sugar and vanilla essence in a bowl until it forms peaks. 7. To present the dessert, soak the sponges in the remaining sherry and spoon a little jam into six cocktail glasses. 8. Place the sponge on the jam, then layer the remaining sponges and jam until the glasses are filled up to 2.5cm from the top. 9. Spoon about 1cm of custard into each glass and add a layer of crème Chantilly on top, and finish with a sprinkle of chopped almonds and pistachios.

Mathew Sloane

HEAR the summer back in glorious Blighty hasn't been exactly sun-packed and carefree. England's showing in South Africa was an embarrassment – rather for the squad's refusal to visit Nelson Mandela's prison cell than for any footballing misgivings. I've heard about massive and widespread forthcoming public sector cuts while a government MP has just discovered some interesting secrets about his wife's evening activities. I've only been gone for two months and my beloved isle is embroiled in disgrace, anarchy and misery. At times like these, I should probably not mention that I'm writing this on a balcony overlooking the Caribbean sea, sipping a delightful Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon and being entertained by the incomparable Jeff Buckley as the cool evening breeze delights the nearby palm trees in the fading light. My fellow citizens of the greatest city on earth, we must not succumb to foul displeasure and simmering despair. I beseech thee, in the name of all that is righteous, divine and good, to cast out these demons and embrace each second of your privileged lives on the streets of Liverpool with lovers' abandon and childlike wonder. My further request is that you embark on your journey of enlightenment with a blinding glass of dancing water served in one of our many fine, Dionysian temples. The Everyman Bistro is celebrating 40 years of trade this month. Forty years of serving crazily good food, superb liquor – all in a fabulous atmosphere which can best be described in proud Liverpudlian fashion as – boss. Dead boss. I was schooled at the Everyman as a nascent wine-lord, while enjoying the best working conditions a chap could ask for. So here's the skinny – a restaurant that serves top quality, reasonably priced food and drink; looks after its staff and is loved by thousands is celebrating 40 years of business. That's the way to do it, eh?

It was at the Ev' that I had my first taste of Chilean wine, a fairly inexpensive Pinot Noir. My boss told me to take it home, drink it, and then come back and tell him I didn't care much for red wine. The rest is history, a somewhat hazy and often exaggerated history, but history all the same. Get out to a decent wine shop and kick off a Chilean adventure – Carmenere, in my brilliant opinion, is what they do best. Vinea carries Carmenere El Grano – big, dirty, juicy, lusty, rambunctious swag. Imagine Megan Fox drunk on whisky screaming Metallica lyrics in a Scottish accent, while offering to knock you out before riding off in a stolen convertible – your stolen convertible. If you don't get down to this smart little wine emporium on Albert Dock and ask these fine chaps to swap a few quid for a bottle of this triumphant gear, you'll have me to answer to. Get it on. I hear my old stomping ground, The Noble House, has some wine tasting events coming up. I can definitely recommend the wine list, compiled by a team of crack experts including myself and Lord Beverage himself, Alex Hannah. The next tasting event is going to be a chance to sample some superior tipple accompanied by selections from the forthcoming Christmas menu. It's all part of a mental week at The Noble House which kicked off with a Champagne tent at the Liverpool Food & Drink festival. Have a gander at www.thenoblehouse.co.uk for the full itinerary of events. I hope you have all recovered from that intense and traumatic episode of Easties, in time to enjoy the festival at Sevvy Park. Raise a glass to Liverpool on my behalf.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

chef’s table

NotierequiredatCloveHitch

JadeWrightmeets theteambehindthe latestrestaurantto launchonHopeStreet

Recipes Swordfish with Chimichurri, Orange Glazed Carrots and Seasoned Fries

OUR starter for ten – what exactly is a Clove Hitch? Here’s a clue: look down the road for your inspiration – one way to the Everyman, the other to the Philharmonic Hall. “A clove hitch is a type of knot they use in the theatre,” explains director and chef Rob Tuffnell. “As we’re bang in the middle of Hope Street, surrounded by theatres and concert halls, we wanted to draw on that idea of theatre and tradition for our name. Plus, clove hitches are used in seafaring, and with the docks being so important to the city, it just seemed to make sense.” Occupying the site of the former El Macho, on Hope Street, the Clove Hitch is a world away from the old Mexican restaurant. Gone are the rustic yellow walls, and in their place is a cool and refined decor, with a bar area, front dining room, a big conservatory and a garden terrace at the back – complete with Victorian-style lamps and a winding steel staircase. “We’ve done a lot of the work ourselves,” says Joe Highdale, also a director and the restaurant’s general manager. “Between us and our friends and family, we’ve torn the old place apart and rebuilt it as the kind of place we’d like to come for a meal or a drink. “We’ve both been in the city since we were at university here. We met working in bars and kept in touch. I was running the Augustus John pub on the university campus, but when the opportunity came to open this place, we just had to do it. The chance to put our own stamp on a restaurant in this location was just too good to pass up.” Now Rob, Joe and their team are working together to create a new identity for the Hope Street site. “Our ethos is good food, cooked well,” says Rob. “We source our produce locally – the fruit and veg is from the trade market on Edge Lane, our cheese comes from the Liverpool Cheese Company, in Woolton, we have Clove Hitch ales from the Liverpool One Brewing Company and our meat comes from a supplier just down the road. “We want to know that we can trace where every ingredient that comes through the door comes from.” The menu is a mixture of hearty British staples, with some more unusual dishes thrown in. “We do a really good sausage and mash, but then I’m also really proud of the swordfish with chimichurri and orange glazed carrots (£9.95). “That has a really lovely spicy flavour. I’d recommend that to

For the Swordfish: Parboil halved chanteray carrots, then drop in cold water to stop cooking. Pat-dry the swordfish steak and smear extra virgin olive oil over one side and season. Place in a pan on a moderate heat, season and oil the top side and leave in the pan for 2 minutes. Turn and add butter and oil to the pan and baste for 1-2 minutes Take off the heat and leave to rest. Drain off excess oil and butter and then add carrots, more butter and the juice of half an orange in to a pan with a pinch of brown sugar. Stir on a high heat for 30 seconds and then set aside For the seasoned fries: Cut Maris Piper potatoes into roughly 1cm chips and leave in water. When ready pat dry and drop into oil at 140 degrees for about four mins. Remove from fryer and turn up temperature to 190 degrees. When oil has reached temperature, drop again for a further three mins until golden and crispy on the outside, but still light and fluffy in the middle. Mix pinch of dry oregano, garlic powder, cumin, salt and pepper, chilli flakes and a teaspoon of paprika then sprinkle over chips and toss until they are all coated. c

Joe Highdale, a director at the Clove Hitch, inset, left – we’ve rebuilt it as the kind of place we’d like to come for a meal or a drink

anyone.” And, unlike far too many restaurants in the city, all their puddings are homemade, too. “We have a specialist chef who comes in to make the puddings,” explains Joe. “She is fantastic. Her banoffee pie (£3.95) is out of this world, and she’s always coming up with new

ideas. It makes a real difference to us as a restaurant to be able to hold our hands up and say that everything that you eat here has been made by us. “There’s no cheating going on, and you can tell that by how it tastes.” They’re also open for breakfast –

where the homemade theme continues. “I make all our hash browns from scratch,” says Rob. “As I say, we make it all here, and it tastes like it, too.” Their focus on excellent produce and home cooking places them on a par with other city restaurants far above their price range. “We’ve deliberately kept the prices low,” explains Joe. “In this climate, people want good value for money, so we’re aiming at people who like really good food, but who don’t want to pay over the odds for it.” With main courses starting at £5.95 and breakfasts for the same price, it’s easy to see why the restaurant is already packed. “We haven’t really marketed the place yet,” says Joe. “We’ve been open a couple of weeks now, and already it’s been busy with people coming in for a look around and staying, or hearing word of mouth from friends. If people enjoy it, they’ll keep coming back.” ■ CLOVE Hitch, 23, Hope Street, Liverpool, telephone, 0151-708 6644.

For the Chimichurri: Mix together a few sprigs of chopped parsley, half a clove of pasted garlic, a pinch of chilli flakes, oregano, three tablespoons of white wine vinegar, a drizzle of olive oil, a squeeze of lemon juice and season. Spoon dressing over the swordfish, and finish off with the chips and carrots

Banoffeepie Ingredients: 250g digestive biscuits 250g unsalted butter 100g light muscovado sugar 1x400g tin caramel/dulce de leche 1 tsp vanilla extract 1-2 small bananas 1 lemon 1 gelatine leaf 2 tbsp strong black coffee 275ml double cream chocolate shavings Method: Crust – crush biscuits into crumbs and combine with melted butter. Add mixture to cake tin and form the base. Toffee filling – Melt butter and brown sugar in a pan. Add condensed milk and stir till combined. In a second pan, melt more butter and brown sugar. When sugar has dissolved, add the condensed milk mixture to the second pan. When combined, pour mixture over biscuit base and allow to cool. Topping – Peel bananas and finely slice. Toss with lemon juice to coat and arrange in a single layer on top of toffee.Cut gelatine into strips and leave to soak for 5 mins. Add boiling water and pour in double cream. Whisk until light and fluffy and spread on top of bananas. Finish off with chocolate grated on top.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

cupcake week

AtasteofNewYorkglam ForNationalCupcakeWeek,JadeWrightfindsoutthe secretsbehindtherecipesattheCupofLoveBakery Very vanilla cupcake

EW Yorkers will queue round the block to get cupcakes from their favourite cupcake store, the Magnolia Bakery. The kitschly cute cake shop made famous by Sex and the City was the inspiration for Aigburth’s fabulous Cup of Love Bakery, although not for the reasons one might expect. “I went to New York on holiday, and as a Sex and the City fan, I really wanted to go to the Magnolia Bakery, where Carrie and the girls went to buy those beautiful cupcakes,” explains Jemma Volp-Fletcher, 28, the baker behind Cup of Love. “I’d built it up so much in my head before I got there, but when I bit into my first cupcake I was really disappointed. It tasted mass produced. Other people said the same. So I

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thought, when I got back home, I’d try to make some of my own.” The results were not an unmitigated success. “They were an absolute disaster,” she laughs. “It was so much harder than it looked. They tasted fine, but they looked a mess. “With cupcakes, you eat with your eyes as much as with your mouth, and these really weren’t much to look at.” But, by trial and error, they improved over time. “My sister and I used to bake scones with my Nan when we were little and I loved that. I remember being amazed by the fact that you could put this lump of dough in the oven and it would come out as a lovely scone. “I’ve always liked baking. I’m quite a practical person – I can run up a pair of curtains and fix most things – so I liked the challenge of learning how to make the cakes I’d hoped to find at Magnolia.” Then she experimented with flavours, finally settling on four basic combinations including vanilla sponge with vanilla icing, vanilla sponge with lemon icing and chocolate sponge with vanilla icing. “I started making them for friends – I had lots of willing testers,” says Jemma. “Bit by bit, word got around, and when Nook and Willow (Liverpool-based bag designers) had a launch party, they asked if I’d make some cupcakes for them. “I was terrified. Making them for your friends is one thing, but to make so many, and for someone else to be relying on you, that was really nerve-wracking.” But the launch party was a success, and more orders flooded in. “I like to vary the flavours with the seasons,” she says. “At Christmas, I made gingerbread sponge with lemon icing, and I’ll be

doing some Halloween ones with orange topping and spooky faces. I love decorating them. “When I create a new design, I try to think about the prettiest cake I can imagine, almost like a cartoon version of a real cake. Pretty coloured icing really helps, and everyone loves the edible glitter. A cupcake isn’t really a cupcake without a bit of sparkle to it.” Jemma makes the cupcakes in batches of six or 12, to order, customising them for personal taste. Before long, Jemma was trying to balance her day job as a successful marketing consultant with every evening and weekend in the kitchen, whipping up batches of cakes. Eventually, the cakes won out, and now her main job is as a baker. “It grew so quickly and I hadn’t seen it coming,” she says. “Now, as well as the cupcakes, we’re doing loaf cakes, muffins, giant cupcakes and now the treat parcels, too.” Launched to coincide with National Cupcake Week, the treat parcel is a homemade hamper of goodies to take the hassle out of hosting those ever-so popular tea parties. With a selection of homemade cakes from the bakery, wrapped in nostalgic brown paper and ribbon in a gift-wrapped cake box, they’re all you need to host your own tea party – minus the tea, of course. “Trends in fashion and food have put a lot of pressure on women to get creative and ‘make-do and mend’ but for those who simply don’t have the skills or the time to make everything from scratch, there needed to be an alternative from the supermarket or mass-produced outlets,” says Jemma. “This way, you can choose whichever cupcakes, loaf cakes and American muffins you want, and we’ll deliver them to your house, or office, or wherever you want them.” It seems that some customers want to buy the cakes and then take the credit themselves. “I couldn’t possibly comment,” laughs Jemma. “But, yes, some people do get the parcels to pass off as their own. But then when you work all day, not many people have the time to sit up all night baking. We’re happy to be their secret little helpers.” ■ DOWNLOAD Cup of Love Bakery’s menu at www. cupoflovebakery.co.uk

Recipe: Strawb

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Ingredients:

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1¼ cups self raising flour ½ teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt 1 large egg 1 large egg yolk 1 cup sugar ½ corn oil 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ cup full fat milk

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Strawberry Kiss cupcake, designed by Jemma Volp-Fletcher, at Cup of Love Bakery, Aigburth

Method: 1. Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt and set aside.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

mourinAigburth A lemon lips cupcake

Jemma Volp-Fletcher with a selection of some of her fabulous cup cakes

wberry Kiss cupcake 2. Using an electric mixer, beat together the egg and yolk and sugar until thickened and lightened to a cream colour – around two mins. 3. Add oil and vanilla extract and mix on low speed until blended. 4. Mix in the milk until all blended. 5. Mix in the flour mixture until it is incorporated and the batter is smooth. 6. One large table spoon into each muffin sized cupcake case. 7.Place in the oven at 150°C for 20 mins. Cream cheese frosting ½ cup of unsalted butter at room temp

½ cup of cream cheese at room temp 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract 3 cups icing sugar 1 teaspoon strawberry flavouring 1 teaspoon pink colouring Method: 1. Mix together the butter, cream cheese and vanilla until smooth. 2. Add the icing sugar until the mixture is smooth. 3. Add strawberry flavouring and pink food colouring and mix until completely blended and pipe on to cakes

cupboard love SPRINKLE some sugar and sweet delight with the help of these pretty cake tins, trays and place mats from the Iced Fancies range, at TJ Hughes. They offer the perfect way to protect your lovely cakes once you’ve spent hours decorating them to perfection. Large decorated cupcake tin, £5.99, from TJ Hughes.

SHOW off your baking skills – or your freshly bought cakes – with the Star Swirly Cupcake Stand, £9.99, from Lakeland. They also do a fab cupcake caddy, £19.99, which keeps a dozen cakes safe, and even an electric cupcake baker, £39.99, which cooks six bases at a time.

TREAT yourself to some suitably pretty cookware to make baking a joy. This beautifully hand-painted ceramic stoneware mixing bowl, from John Lewis, is individually crafted, giving each piece a unique look and feel. It’s also dishwasher and microwave safe. Polly's Pantry Mixing Bowl, £18.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

eating out

Tippedovertheedge

JadeWrightsamples Liverpool’sSanCarlo Italianrestaurant

T CAN leave a bitter taste at the end of even the most magnificent meal, yet for low-paid waiters and struggling restaurateurs it can be a financial lifeline. A service charge automatically added to a restaurant bill is a contentious subject. If we’ve enjoyed a good meal with thoughtful service, most diners consider it a genuine pleasure to reward the staff. When I waitressed my way through university, a tip was seen as a bonus, not something we expected. An automatic service charge seems nothing short of a stealth tax on dining, because, while it is discretionary, few will dare to ask for it to be removed. Therefore, the idea that customers’ generosity is taken for granted sticks in the throat somewhat, even after an excellent meal. But more on that later. San Carlo opened late last year and it’s already become a popular choice. Walk past on a Friday or Saturday night and it’s always bustling. So when I called on a Monday afternoon, I was pleased to reserve a table for two at 8pm that night. Arriving, I realised I needn’t have bothered – it was fairly busy, but there were plenty of empty tables. We were promptly shown our seats. The menu – or should I say menus – are extensive. With dozens of dishes to choose from, the main one feels like reading a Dickens novel. I’m sure I read Bleak House in less time than it took me to get from the antipasto to pizza. If that wasn’t enough, there is a separate specials menu boasting 20 or so dishes, and another specials board on the wall, which appeared to have yet more choices. After a good 20 minutes, we’d finally decided. My date chose the Insalata Adriatic (£7.85) for his starter, and Agnello Alla Toscana (£16) with a side order of sauteed potatoes (£2.45) for his main course. I chose Pizza Vegetariana (£8.95) and a San Carlo Salad (£4.50) for my main course. I was holding out for a pudding, and having seen the size of the portions being delivered to nearby tables I knew that a starter would leave me far too full. But so that I’d have something to nibble on, I ordered their selection of Italian breads with olive oil and balsamic vinegar (£2.50) to tide me over. We finished the order with a bottle of Corvo Rosso (£15.95), which arrived quickly, along with a large jug of water for the table. The wine was excellent for the price, with a dry, velvety feel and a lovely ruby red colour, with garnet red highlights at the edge. Sitting back and admiring the decor, we were really looking forward to our food. The old bank building has been

The elegant San Carlo restaurant, on Castle Street, in Liverpool

transformed – it’s now all white space with red and black furnishings, decorated with wine bottles. The huge windows give it a light and airy feel and the walls are covered with photographs, artwork and mirrors. Only the tacky photo wall of celebrity diners lets it down, but it’s a small quibble in the otherwise excellent decor. Thankfully, it has managed to escape the worst ravages of being a chain restaurant – if I hadn’t already eaten at its sister restaurant in Manchester (there are also branches in Birmingham, Bristol and Leicester), I wouldn’t have guessed it wasn’t an independent restaurant. Sadly, the service had much more of a chain feeling to it. The Insalata Adriatic arrived – a

beautiful plate of seafood imprisoned in a hoop of sliced cucumber, surrounded by red treviso lettuce leaves. The bread didn’t arrive. After 10 minutes, we called over the waiter to ask if it was on its way. It wasn’t. Eventually it turned up, and it was worth the wait – a large helping of delicious ciabatta that was so fresh the dough was almost sticky, and tangy tomato bread that I just couldn’t stop eating. The seafood salad was similarly well received – a well seasoned selection of prawns, langoustine, baby squid and mussels. Almost 45 minutes later, our main courses were delivered with no gap. All seemed to be well, until my date cut into his lamb. Instead of the tender meat he’d

been expecting, the first chop was more than half fat and gristle. The second was no better. The third was barely edible. As he sat trying to find something edible – other than the excellent sauteed potatoes – the waiter spotted the problem and promptly came over. Full of apologies, he summoned the restaurant manager, who agreed that there was a problem, and offered an alternative or a refund. Given that it had taken so long for the food to arrive, he declined and accepted the refund, mournfully munching on the bowl of potatoes. My pizza, on the other hand, was excellent – a gigantic disc of thin, light dough covered with a tangy tomato sauce, mozzarella and roasted vegetables. It was so huge that I only managed a quarter, partly because I wolfed down the San Carlo Salad so quickly. A bowl of tiny balls of mozzarella, halved cherry tomatoes and more red treviso lettuce leaves, it was a real highlight. But, by leaving most of my main course, I’d successfully left room for a pudding, so we ordered a creme brulee (£4.95), a cappuccino (£2) and a double espresso (£2.50). They arrived promptly and were fine – the brulee a play-it-safe

success, topped with a fresh raspberry. Sadly, the bill left a less than sweet taste in my mouth. Alongside the items we’d expected was a miscellaneous food charge for £8. When we asked the waiter, he shrugged and suggested maybe they’d decided to charge half price for the lamb after all. After one look at our unimpressed faces, he promptly removed it. But, to add insult to injury, they’d levied a 10 % service charge below the food bill, and then left a space below that for us to fill in, marked “gratuity”. So, for starters that arrived 10 minutes apart, an inedible main course and an incorrect bill, they seemed to be expecting a double tip. Call me oldfashioned, but that is simply a step too far. I’m happy to reward good service, but not when it’s taken for granted. So, restaurants, please abolish your automatic service charges. If anyone wants to tip generously for exceptional service, then they are free to do so, just as they could for a taxi driver or hairdresser. While you’re at it, put prominently on their menus what your tipping policy is, train your staff well and offer service with a smile, not a fee.

If that wasn’t enough, there is a separate specials menu boasting 20 or so dishes

DAILY POST Tuesday, September 14, 2010

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Tuesday, September 14, 2010