MENU THE DAILY POST FOOD AND DRINK GUIDE FEBRUARY 09
Cheaper flavour What cuts to buy in the credit crunch
Fraiche feast Michelin chef’s approach to fine dining
The food of love Design your own Valentine treat
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DAILY POST Tuesday, February 10, 2009
fresh
Valentine treat OF ALL the many Valentine’s menus available in Liverpool this weekend, the one at Osqa restaurant, below, gets our vote simply for choice. Priced £29.95 for four courses, it includes a wide selection of dishes including Lemon Chicken & Black Pudding Terrine, Salmon & Broccoli Fishcakes and Duck & Plum Parfait for starters, Pan-Roasted Pheasant, Blue Cheese & Caramelised Onion Tart and Tender Loin of Pork for main, and Strawberry Creme Brulee and Coconut & Vanilla New York Cheesecake for dessert. Diners are also treated to a glass of sparkling Pinot Grigio Rosé and canapés. Call the Oldham Square restaurant on 0151 709 6611 to book.
try it . . .
KELLOGG’S Special K Original bars are just 88 calories and now contain 50% more fruit. Priced £2.19 for six, from most supermarkets.
JOURNEY through the two famous French wine valleys with a wine tasting session at Chester Grille. Hosted by HBJ Wines, the evening begins at 7pm on Wednesday February 18, with a wine and canapé reception, followed by a three-course dinner that has been specially paired with vintages including Rose d’Anjou 2007, Vouvray, Demi-Sec 2007 and Domaine de la Brunely 2006. Dishes include Sea Bass & Salmon Terrine, Roast Guinea Fowl and Baked Rice Pudding. Priced £30 per person, book on 01244 304090.
food facts IT TAKES 75,000 crocuses to make 1lb of the spice saffron
food facts PEANUTS are not nuts – they are members of the legume family
INDULGE your sweet tooth at Leaf Tea Shop and Bar, which is hosting monthly Pudding Club events. Located within the Contemporary Urban Centre, on Parliament Street, Leaf will be serving three courses of desserts with a complementary selection of teas. You also get tips on how to make the dishes for yourself. The next event is at 7pm, on Wednesday, February 25. More details at www. thisisleaf.co.uk
WIRRAL’S Siam Thai features in a new restaurant guide aiming to help Britons uncover the very best in Thai cuisine. The Thai Good Food Guide, produced by Chang Beer, features recipes from some of the most highly rated Oriental restaurants in the country. Siam Thai has revealed how it makes its signature Gai Yang dish, marinated, chargrilled chicken. The 64-page guide is available to view online and as a free download from www. changbeer.com/goodfood A limited number are also available in print from the restaurants featured, and the website, priced at £4.95.
Vegemite to go? DESPITE Britain’s new favourite tennis player, Laura Robson, right, declaring herself a fan, Australians may soon lose their much adored Vegemite. Us Brits know it as the stuff they spread on toast in Neighbours, but to the Aussies
it’s a national treasure, and it may soon be dumped because of its high salt content. Robson, who was born in Australia, but moved to Britain as a toddler, was praised by the Antipodean nation for supporting their favourite foodstuff.
Dinner date Who would you invite to your dream dinner party? The Mighty Boosh’s Noel Fielding, Debbie Harry, John Lennon and Siouxsie Soux.
Victoria Swale, of Chameleon bar
Victoria Swale, 21, is PR and Marketing Manager at Chameleon bar, in Liverpool Who would be your nightmare guest? Victoria Beckham. What would you all drink? Rosemary Brambles (cocktails) and a nice bottle of Rioja. What would you serve? Tapas
– patatas bravas with shallots, red peppers and sundried tomatoes, meatballs with red wine and lamb mince, plus a salad with balsamic dressing. What would be the topic of conversation? Definitely 80s
culture and maybe a bit of glam rock banter. I would also like to know my guests’ views on the greatest songs of all time. Who would do the washing up? Noel Fielding, right – I’d love to see him in a pair of marigolds
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DAILY POST Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Chef’s Table
Fraiche approach to food Emma Pinch talks to Marc Wilkinson about his journey from fish fingers to Michelin success
F
OR four years, Marc Wilkinson’s tiny, 20-cover restaurant, tucked away in Oxton, has been a bit of a buried gem, at least as far as the rest of the country was concerned. But, since Fraiche was awarded a Michelin star, the owner/patron has faced an avalanche of interest. All kinds of people are managing to find their way to his small corner of the Wirral. From London foodies – ringing up worriedly to ask whether their expensive cars will be OK parked outside – to fellow chefs and critics. “It’s amazing the difference an accolade makes,” says Marc, sounding a touch bemused. “It’s been a mad house. The phones haven’t stopped ringing. “We’re into the end of May at the moment for booking a weekend table. When we won three rosettes, we had a little bit of a surge, but it was nothing like winning the Michelin star. “We’ve got people in the trade coming, food bloggers and critics as well, unfortunately, they make their way here and there’s no escape. “It’s been a hard struggle to get recognised, especially with it being in Merseyside, trying to shake off the stigma for our dining. But it’s my home, so I stuck with it.” Huyton-born Wilkinson grew up on a diet of fish fingers and baked beans. When he got a job, aged 16, at a hotel kitchen, he had no idea what the scampi or fillet steak he was preparing was like. But when he tasted restaurant food he became hooked on cooking. He went on to work 16-hour days at the Michelin-starred Winteringham House, then Midsummer House in Cambridge and in Canada, before setting up a successful restaurant in Essex. But, when it came to opening a restaurant he calls his “baby”, he came back to Merseyside. He bought the freehold for £200,000, refurbished it himself in warm colours and minimalist style, and set about inventing technically advanced, tour de force menus of modern French style. He won the Michelin rising star award two years running, and it has three AA rosettes. “It’s me, really. I designed it, did
Chef Marc Wilkinson at work in his Michelin-starred Fraiche restaurant, in Oxton
Roast Cod with a Warm Sea Urchin Salad INGREDIENTS (serves 4) 4 cod fillets trimmed and pinboned 4 sea urchins in shell 4 scallops hand dived orange powder (dry the zest out about the stove and blitz in a coffee grinder) mixed baby leaves and micro cresses 1 vanilla pod of seeds 1 unwaxed lemon parsley for garnish olive oil grapeseed oil seasoning
METHOD 1. Shell and wash the scallops and the sea urchin, (trim and save shell to use as a vessel). Dice scallops to the same size as the sea urchin roe and slice the other two into four pieces. 2. Peel the unwaxed lemon, julienne the zest and proceed to confit. 3. Juice the flesh to use as base to dressing. Whisk in a three to one ration of olive oil to grapeseed. Mix in vanilla seeds and season.
all the decor, all the menus. Everything in the creative process for Fraiche, I did. “The number one thing is taste. You’d be amazed how many people do pretty food that doesn’t taste.” “Sexy” food he’s put on the menu recently includes a poached egg with Jerusalem artichoke puree, fresh truffle, smoked macadamia nuts, creme fraiche and chives. He describes himself as a “toy freak” and has a battery of gadgets to help create various textures and tastes – the likes of liquorice, basil, lemon and orange powders and black olive air, ice-cream in seconds
4. Roast cod in a non-stick pan, skin down. Rest it while you warm a little of the lemon and vanilla oil, adding the sea urchin and diced scallop until warmed through. Mix this through the salad leaves and season, building up the salad in the cleaned and sterilised urchin shell. 5. Top with roasted scallop, which is dusted with orange powder to give colour, and caramelise the flesh without over-cooking.
and rice heated to 200°C until it pops inside out. To hold the smoke flavour in the poached egg dish, he’s bought some special dishes from Germany. “What I’m really chasing this year is trying to keep in the smell of food. “When you take the lid off a dish of lamb and rosemary and are hit with that fragrance of rosemary. It’s really hard to do.” He’s motivated by trying to create the idea of “clean” food he has in his head. “I’m not there yet,” he muses. “What I want is very balanced dishes where the flavour
6. Arrange with deep fried parsley and the lemon confit on the skin of the cod.
of each product comes through. Sauces should support the main product of the plate, not overwhelm it; you won’t find me using any green peppercorn sauces. It sounds easy, but it’s quite hard to execute. It’s like the opposite of a ready packaged meal where the roof of your mouth feels cloyed but you don’t feel satisfied.” To recharge his creative batteries, he hops on a plane to Madrid or Barcelona. “From John Lennon Airport, I can get there in two hours,” he says. “I want to be surprised and excited and if you go to places like
Picture: COLIN LANE/ cl180109chef-2
that you’re not going to see lamb shanks and salmon fishcakes.” Now he’s won his Michelin star, he has every intention of staying put. Expansion is not in his plans. “At the moment, it’s 100% me. If I bought somewhere in Liverpool it would be only 60–70% me. “What I want now is to open a pastry shop. “Where do you get really good pastry in Merseyside? Where is the really good tea-room? “In Yorkshire, they’ve got Betty’s, and in Chester there’s the Grosvenor. But nothing in Merseyside.” Staying in Oxton does have its challenges, even if customers are making their way down the M6 more often. “There is local produce but not enough of it,” he says. “If you want cresses or verbena or woodruff, you still have to Covent Garden it.” He can no more stop his mind dreaming up new or improved dishes than he can stop breathing, so keeping Fraiche fresh won’t be a problem. “We like to keep evolving,” he says. “I was thinking about this the other day. The best way to do it is to push forward on something else. Now I want that fourth rosette.” emmapinch@dailypost.co.uk
DAILY POST Tuesday, February 10, 2009
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Cheaper cuts offer gr Granny knew a thing or two about thrift. Now Emma Pinch talks to the butcher passing on the same tips to the credit crunch generation
W
Just some of the beautiful cuts of meat on offer
Pictures: PAUL HEAPS/ ph040209dedge-5
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E ARE a nation addicted to our shrink-wrapped chicken breasts and lamb chops. But the squeeze on people’s purses could see us going back to the traditional cuts of meat that our grandmothers and mothers filled their baskets with and, argue chefs, are tastier and slice bills in half. Heston Blumenthal has recently led the charge towards more adventurous cuts, offering up braised ox cheeks to the Little Chef menu, while Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall regularly urges cooks to raid the natural larder and use every part of the animal. Callum Edge’s family has been running Edge & Sons butchers, in New Ferry, since 1844, and they supply top regional chefs like Paul Askew and Marc Wilkinson with meat. Callum has noticed a small but determined sally from customers towards more old-fashioned cuts of meat. “I think, with watching different chefs on TV, people are becoming a little more discerning and adventurous,” he says. “With oxtail, for example, I can’t get enough in. “The thing with cheaper joints is that they do often require a bit more effort in the cooking. We’ve become a bit lazy as a nation, so we buy the best cuts that require the least cooking.” There’s also a certain squeamishness around finding out about different cuts. “People prefer not to know what part of the body it comes from. But people come back from places like Chile and want cuts they had in dishes there, where the
attitude is you use every part of the animal.” The meat in most roasted or stewed dishes can be replaced with cheaper cuts. They are generally from stronger muscles at the front of the animal, which have more connective tissue and are more sinewy. In a casserole, Callum recommends swapping rump, frying steak (top rump), or braising steak for chuck and shin steak. “The muscle used for fillet steak just runs down the back of the animal, keeping the spine together. Chuck steak, from the shoulder and shin steaks, are tougher because the muscles are used more. You need a bit of sinew and connective tissue to make it a more succulent dish. They just melt down to make a beautifully moist, tender dish in a rich sauce
One of Wirral’s Finest Fine Dining
International/Modern British Cuisine
Julian’s Restaurant in Hoylake were delighted with October’s edition of Menu. “Just wanted to say a BIG THANKYOU for looking after us. Our full page advert in today’s Daily Post is absolutely fabulous.We will be changing where we advertise next year and will be advertising much more frequently in the Daily Post.We hope you continue the Menu theme for 2009. Thanks again.
Every Thursday & Friday for February
Jackie and Julian”
Reservations 0151 709 5779 (Opp Echo Arena) Website: www.blundellstreet.com
20 BIRKENHEAD ROAD, HOYLAKE, WIRRAL CH47 3BW Open Tuesday to Saturday from 6pm 0151 632 6241
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DAILY POST Tuesday, February 10, 2009
reater flavour
Cupboard love PERFECT for dinner party cheats – even the lamest effort would look delicious served up in one of these beautiful Rocha.John Rocha shade pasta bowls. So, if you want friends over and don’t have time to cook, fill a set of these with a microwaveable spaghetti dish. Priced £5, from Debenhams. CHOOSE as a Valentine’s gift or use it to cook a romantic dinner for your loved one – the fun red and white striped Sweet Talk Casserole Dish is suitable for microwave, oven and dishwasher use and is crafted from stoneware with a glazed finish. Priced £10.95, from www.lilyandlime.co.uk
Callum Edge and Sons, in New Ferry, left, a traditional butchers offering a wide variety of cuts of meat
CUPCAKES are hot right now, and not because they’ve just come out of the oven. This
Silicone Floral Cupcake Pan will ensure yours stand out from the crowd. A steel rim adds stability, so you can place it right on the oven rack, its flexible surface helps foods pop right out and makes storage easy. Priced £22.75, from www. pamperedchef.com
Code: ph040209dedge-6
which is perfect for slow cookers.” Cheaper, too – chuck and shin steak is 25% less pricey than braising steak, 50% less than topside. He also advises swapping your roast meat – usually a slab of silverside or topside – for a brisket. From the sternum of the cow, it’s about half the price and just needs more cooking time. Where lamb is concerned, there’s more to enjoy than just the ubiquitous leg. “Shoulder of lamb and belly of lamb are both being neglected,” says Callum. “The leg is just leaner. Shoulder of lamb is a beautiful roast joint. The fat is 80% water, however, and can be drained off after cooking, leaving a nice moist roast.” Mutton is again slightly tougher and benefits from a longer cooking time, but it’s more densely packed with flavour. Swap chicken breast for richertasting chicken thighs and buy bacon shanks instead of hock. They can feed six people for £1.50. Game can also be a thrifty and delicious choice. Hunters are increasingly selling on catches of pheasant, wood pigeon and guinea fowl to butchers like Edge & Son. “Rabbits are really having a revival, too. We sell a whole rabbit, caught at Oulton Park, for £3-£4. It’s naturally free range, and you get the same amount as meat as you would in a chicken. They’re quite easy to bone, tender and taste similar to chicken.” “There are so many wonderful cuts of meat that have tended to be forgotten but are enjoying a renaissance now,” affirms Paul Askew, chef patron of The London Carriage Works. “Forget fillet steak and discover something really enjoyable.” You’ll see your meat costs sliced. emma.pinch@dailypost.co.uk
CELEBRATE VALENTINES DAY ALL YOU CAN EAT LUNCH BUFFET 11.30am-6.00pm Mon - Thurs £5.95 Fri - Sat
£6.50
GRAND BUFFET 6.00pm - Midnight Mon - Thurs £8.95 Fri - Sat
£9.95
ALL DAY SUNDAY
11.30am - Midnight Confit of Cheshire-reared mutton, at the London Carriage Works, Hope Street, Liverpool
£6.75
KIDS EAT
1/2 PRICE BELOW 41/2 FT
■ FOR Paul Askew’s exclusive recipe for Confit of Cheshire-reared mutton, visit www.liverpooldailypost.co.uk/food
4 QUEENS SQ, LIVERPOOL, L1 1HF, OPPOSITE MARRIOT HOTEL & QUEENS SQ BUS STOP 0151 709 2811 WWW.TSORESTAURANT.CO.UK
DAILY POST Tuesday, February 10, 2009
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Sommelier – Mathew Sloane least that’s what I’ve decided from the team photo on the website. I was lucky enough to try a bunch of the wines at a recent tasting at The London Carriageworks, with some very decent tucker from head chef Paul Askew and his pan-jockeys. The absolute superstar for me is the Radford Dale Merlot, a devastatingly earthy, mystical, heady brew that slipped down like a buttered-up snake down a chip shop chimney – sublime. I’m sick and tired of nasty, sweet, cheap Merlot – made by idiots in underground caverns for evil, ridiculously monikered villains so that they may keep the world stupid while they build space stations with their ill-gotten gains. This gear will blow your mind. With all of this insanity in mind, I have decided to allow you, the cultured quaffers of the promised land, to pop down and taste some of these outrageous wines, accompanied with some useless banter from my good self. I’m running a bit of a tasting surgery down at Vinea, Albert Dock, on Saturday afternoons, from two o’clock. This week, I’ve got a couple of blinders from Good Hope; next week, I’ve no idea, but it’ll be boss. To help things along, there’ll be a bit of artisan cheese on offer. There’ll be a competent understudy looking after my wares at the same time on Sundays but if, like me, weekends are for looking after the great British public, feel free to give us a bell on 0151 707 8962 and you can pop in for a cheeky taste whenever you like.
Win the chance to create your own chocolate LOOKING for the perfect Valentine’s gift or a sweet treat for yourself? Well, how abut the opportunity to create your very own chocolate. The Chocolate Cellar, on Hanover Street, is offering you a chance to come along and develop your own mouth-watering filling for a dark, delicious chocolate, under the guidance of award-winning chocolatier, Bala Croman. Her tastebud tingling creations (as seen on our cover picture and here) have included rose and chilli, Moroccan mint and lime, pecan and cinnamon and salt and pepper – so you’ll be able to let your imagination run riot. As well as truffles, cakes and bars, Bala’s second shop in Merseyside offers a cafe with specialist chocolate drinks and workshops to learn about the art of chocolate making. On Valentines Day, there’s the chance to taste a variety of sweet and savoury chocolates and a talk from Bala over a glass of wine. Tickets cost £12.50. For your chance to win, answer the following question: What is the bean chocolate is derived from? Email your answers to features@dailypost.co.uk by Friday, February 13. The Chocolate Cellar is at
The Chocolate Cellar lets your imagination run wild, with the chance to design your perfect confectionery Hanover Galleries, 11-13 Hanover Street, Liverpool, L1, open Sunday to Wednesday from 11am to 6pm and 11am to 8pm from Thursday to Saturday. The winner can book their workshop up to six weeks after the close of the competition.
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T’S been a fairly eventful start to the year. Chinese New Year went off with a delightful bang as I celebrated at Yuet Ben with some fine wines from Origin, great food from Terry’s team, outstanding Lion dancing from the top boys and girls at Liverpool Hung Gar and, wait for it, King Kenny! After fidgeting like an excited eightyear-old for a few hours, I managed to pluck up the courage to mumble a quick hello and shake the great man’s hand. I couldn’t sleep for three days after that. Recovering from the madness on Upper Duke Street took a few days, after which I was able to pick myself up, dust off my tasting boots, crack the verbal whip and venture once more into the seedy underworld of unsung, grapetwisting heroes. From time to time, like the Indiana Jones of tasty beverages, I stumble across a hidden gem, sparkling amid the gloom and mundanity, shouting out to make itself heard over the voices of a thousand pedlars of souped-up fruit juice, baffling us with outrageous claims of individuality, quality, complexity and desirability. Then, once in a century or so, we discover an entire winery that is determined to make every single bottle a delight at a price that won’t have a bunch of Guy Ritchie extras kicking your door in and relieving you of your nine tellies. Welcome to The Winery Of Good Hope. I won’t hit you with all the website blurb – you can check that out for yourself at www.thewineryof goodhope.com – but what I will share with you is that, for once, every single wine I’ve tasted from these godlike lunatics has been outstanding. The team behind it is a multi-cultural bunch of wine-mad skateboarders, at
Liverpool One
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DAILY POST Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Sommelier – Mathew Sloane Best bar none
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DAILY POST Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Advertising Feature
Julian’s Restaurant
A warm welcome awaits at Julian’s
T
Fine Dining & Internaional Modern British Cuisine
HERE’S cause for celebration at Julian’s Restaurant this month. Husband and wife team Julian (head chef) and Jackie Davies (front of house) first opened the restaurant, on Birkenhead Road in Hoylake, on February 2, 2004. Five years on and they have built, between them, a fabulous reputation both for the quality of the cuisine and the service, combining to make Julian’s Restaurant one of the top eateries in Wirral. In order to celebrate the restaurant’s five-year anniversary and share the success with their loyal customers, plus help people to enjoy a great meal out during hard financial times, Julian and Jackie are giving diners at the restaurant a voucher allowing them a 10% discount on their meal when they next return. The restaurant’s recent Burns’ Night evening proved extremely popular. Incorporating six courses, including haggis – accompanied by a full address and a Scots piper – it proved great value and was heartily enjoyed by all who attended. Such events are always a hit with customers.
Valentine’s evening booked up fast, so be quick to reserve a table for upcoming special events such as Mothers’ Day lunch, a traditional and rustic St George’s Day menu, Fish Night and French Night. Also proving popular have been Julian’s Masterclasses. On Mondays, and now on Sundays, too, Julian helps a class of would-be chefs to prepare a meal. Anyone can book to take part in this, no matter how skilled they are in the kitchen, so just give the restaurant a call. Julian worked and trained for 14 years at the four-star Grosvenor Hotel, in Chester, along with Papparazi, in Chester, and the Wheatsheaf, in Raby, where he won the Chef of the Year Award from Wirral Tourist Board. For full details of the restaurant’s winter table d’hote and a la carte menus, just visit the website www.onionring.co.uk and search for Julian’s Restaurant. The intimate restaurant, which seats up to 36 diners, was given some TLC over the early winter period, nicely sprucing it up for 2009. There’s a fully stocked bar and an excellent wine list, sourced from around the
Julian’s restaurant is celebrating its five-year anniversary with a special offer of a 10% discount on your meal when you return world, with emphasis on French and New World wines. If you haven’t experienced the restaurant before, or you’ve not sampled the menu for a while, now is the perfect time to do so. And remember, once you book a table at Julian’s Restaurant, it is yours for as long as you
want to stay, so feel free to relax and enjoy your evening. ■ TO BOOK a table or have a menu sent out by post, contact Julian’s Restaurant, 20 Birkenhead Road, Hoylake, Wirral, telephone them on 0151 632 6241 or email julianshoylake@ btconnect.com
One of Wirral’s Finest • Award winning Chef / Patron • Reputation for Mouth-Watering, Innovative Cuisine • Carefully Sourced, Fresh, Local Produce • Friendly, Professional, Attentive Service • Extensive A` La Carte Menu • Table d’hote Menu - 2 Courses Early Bird Tuesday to Thursday Before 7pm-£12.50 After 7pm-£14.50 Friday £14.50 all night Saturday £17.50 all night Add a homemade desert Tuesday - Friday £3.95 - cheese £4.95 • Vegetarians / Allergies Catered • Open Tuesday to Saturday Evenings from 6pm • Please call for a copy menu or reservations
Open for Lunch
MOTHERS DAY
3 Courses plus coffee £19.95 ST GEORGES DAY
Thursday 23rd April 6 Courses £28.95
THE MERSEY PARTNERSHIP TOURIST BOARD RESTAURANT ACCREDITATION SCHEME
An exciting new venture promoting the quality of the region’s food We are thriled to announce that we have been awarded the following:
TASTE LIVERPOOL HIGHEST QUALITY ASSURED ACCREDITATION AWARDED 92% FOR FOOD AND 86% FOR HOSPITALITY
MADE IN NORTH WEST ACCREDITATION (Demonstrating that we use and promote locally sourced produce
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Julian and Jackie , and all their staff would like t o say a VERY BIG THANK YOU to all and regular customers suppor ted s , who have them over the last 5 years . Thank you all f making our or dream a re ality. We look fo rw to seeing yo ard u again soon all at ★ Julian’s ★
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0151 632 6241 • 20 BIRKENHEAD ROAD HOYLAKE WIRRAL CH47 3BW