Capsule Collection Spring/Summer 2017 By: Lizbeth Angjaya Fashion Business 2 Class 2 Istituto Marangoni London 2015-2016
TABLE OF CONTENTS Brand Background Brand Positioning Target Market Past Collections Trends Competitors
pg. 2 pg. 3 pg. 4 pg. 5 pg. 9 pg. 10
Brand Moodboard Theme Moodboard Color Moodboard Color chart
pg.15 pg.16 pg.17 pg.18
Methodology of primary research Range Plan
pg.19 pg.20
Fabric chart Trimmings chart
pg.23 pg.27
Supply Chain Critical path Costing Technical sheet Line sheet Coordination board Invitation Visual Merchandising
pg.29 pg.31 pg.32 pg.34 pg.46 pg.47 pg.53 pg.56
References Appendices
pg.58 pg.61
Brand Background Stella McCartney is a well-known English fashion designer that is famous for her feminine and chic approach in her designs, along with a stance on antianimal cruelty and sustainability, which is rare for a luxury fashion brand. She graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins in 1995, and was appointed as the creative director of the French fashion house Chloe in 1997. Her namesake label was founded in 2001, with the first collection was showcased in Paris in October that year. It was then acquired by the Gucci Group (Kering) as a joint venture partnership. To further its success, the brand was awarded “Brand of the Year” at the British Fashion Awards in 2015. As of today, Stella McCartney has numerous presence worldwide, having stores in London, Los Angeles, Milan, Tokyo, Shanghai and many other leading global cities. Stella McCartney’s style is a mixture of sharp tailoring, femininity, modernity, confidence along with a strong commitment to eco-friendliness. This is evident in every collection showcased, having classic tailored pieces to casual sweatshirts, all produced without using leather or fur.
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Brand positioning Stella McCartney is positioned at contemporary luxury price points, offering womenswear ready-to-wear pieces spans from casualwear, formalwear to eveningwear as well as various accessories. On average, the brand’s price ranges from £100- £3000 depending on the depth of the category and the materials used to construct the garments. The brand appeals to women from aged 20 to 40. In 2010, they introduced the Falabella bag, which was launched to an instant hit. Over the years, Stella McCartney has expanded horizons in its business ventures. Besides womenswear, it also produces lingerie in 2008, beauty products in 2004 and childrenswear in 2010. To further its prominence, since 2004, it also enjoys a great working collaboration with Adidas, having a special collaboration line, Adidas x Stella McCartney, and also having the designer herself appointed as the creative director of Team GB in Olympic Summer Games back in 2012.
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Target Market Pen Portrait Samantha Dylan is 28 Anglo-French woman residing in a suite penthouse of Chelsea area of London with her boyfriend Roger with their cat, Kiko. She studied English at Cambridge University. She works at an advertising and PR agency as a media supervisor and planner, earning 8500 per month, exposing her to a wide networking circle. She is a vegetarian. She is feminine, smart and adventurous. Her style is sharp, polished and sexy but not too provocative. She enjoys listening to indie pop music, playing badminton and tennis, gastronomy and traveling worldwide, and is also an amateur photographer in her spare time. She shops for high-end brands such as Isabel Marant, Max Mara, usually spending ÂŁ400 to ÂŁ2000 maximum in total.
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Past Collections
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Looking back at Stella McCartney’s past three collections from 2014 to 2016, played with various silhouettes, and experimented with a variety of colors. The heavy usage of cotton, wool and silk underlined with a purely sustainable production became the signature to the brand’s identity. S/S 2014 is all about embracing female empowerment with romantic vibes. The colors remain primarily neutrals such as peach, sienna, cream, along with black and soft pink. With an incorporation of soft tailoring, this follows with redefined silhouettes with slim lines. Laces, sheer silks with see-through elements also helped decorate the collection to have a polished, chic finishing. Floral motifs and trimmings appeared, embracing the idea of romanticism. S/S 2015 recalled the brand’s affinity for neutral and versatile colors. They implied the importance of having roomy spaces in the garments. Notable appearances include the plaids, oversized culottes, cutout shapes on dresses ,experimentation of patterns on denim, and scribble-like hemlines. S/S 2016 highlights the experimentation of silhouettes, shapes stripes with an increased length of hemlines with sporty-meets-artsy inspiration to it. The collection contains stretchy tube-shaped dress in plaid, extended polo shirt, maxi skirts, vibrant-colored dresses with overflowing hemlines, a formalwear that consists of denim, vests, coats and jackets, and dresses with quirky shapes of pattern.
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Trends Stella McCartney takes inspiration from various sources such as animals, oil painting art, vintage photographs, 1940s to 1950s Hollywood glamour and a variety of pop and youth cultures, implying a bubble-up theory. The brand is also quite daring in terms of picking their colors for each season, not showing any limit into color selections. The predicted trend of S/S 2017 is the rise of bright colors and roomy silhouettes, in which this collection will be following. The proposed visualization of this collection is the experimentation of the “jungle� theme itself combined with contrasting, louder colors throughout each garment with an outdoorsy and comfortable feeling to the wear, revealing a bolder side to the brand, matching the trend.
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Competitors
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Victoria Beckham Spring / Summer 2016
Source: vogue.co.uk
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3.1 Phillip Lim Spring / Summer 2016
Source: vogue.co.uk
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POSITIONING MAP Fashion Forward
High price
Low price
Traditional
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Brand Moodboard
The moodboard above represents the elements of the brand and the Stella customer. The women visualized above are described as daring, confident, chic, down-to-earth, feminine without being too girly, stylish, effortlessly cool, comfortable with themselves, also having a sense of consciousness towards the earth and social issues alike.
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Theme Moodboard
The theme of this capsule collection is “The Jungle Book�, inspired the movie of the same name. As the brand has a strong stance on ecofriendliness and sustainability, this fact itself also inspired the theme. This season will highlight tropical, Caribbean influences, spanning from their flora and fauna to animal life, and the spiritual essence of adventure. The moodboard above will influence the choice of colors for the collection, having blue, yellow, green and red as the staple colors for the garments, the usual experimentation of color varieties that the brand does. The movie clippings showed in the moodboard, will also give the customers an adventure-inclined feeling about the collection, alongside a lightweight, carefree attitude attached to it.
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Color Moodboard
The colors visualized in the above moodboard will illustrate the choice of colors of this collection based on the brand aesthetics and current trends. Inspiration were sourced using random forms of representation based on nature, plants, painted objects, and fruits, in which all these aspects are quite suitable to connect to the collection’s “Jungle Book” theme, the brand’s previous collections inspiration research methods, its existing DNA and its signature style.
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Color chart
The above chart shows the choices of colors picked for the garments by referencing Pantone further. Neutral colors will represent the bottom pieces, While vibrant and colorful colors will represent the tops, jumpsuits and dresses in order to stand out.
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Methodology of Primary Research
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Range Plan
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CORE
TRENDY
CUTTING EDGE
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Based on the primary research by conducting an interview with the sales staff regarding the brand’s S/S season range plan, the target market is believed to be aged 20+, an affluent individual with a selective buying behavior. With a factor of weather in finalizing the choices of garments, the majority type of garments that will be included in this collection will be tops, dresses, and jumpsuits, that are more convenient to put in. Bottoms and jackets were selected to a minimal amount. In this season, customers tend to change their tops more so often then the bottoms due to the sensitivity level of tops and the convenience and versatility of the bottom garments during the season. During humid weather conditions, jackets were also minimalized, as customers don’t use as much outerwear as they do in colder seasons. The brand usually pushes the creation of cutting edge pieces during summer seasons. Therefore, there will be an added amount of cutting edge pieces to 4. In total, the ratio of the chosen garments in the range plan equals to 6: 2: 4 based on the fashionability split.
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Fabric chart
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Previously, the brand enjoyed incorporating lightweight and soft fabrics for their collection. Cotton is mostly in the core pieces. This is due to their lightweight and hassle-free nature, containing a material that is mostly used and is easy to clean for tops. Moving along to the trendy pieces, cotton is found in the denim, which is the typical material in denim. The bomber jacket contains Polyester/Silk duchess, a material that the brand previously used in similar garment of the brand. This choice helps construct a loose and luxurious feel to the jacket. In the cutting edge pieces, the primary usage of fabrics here are silk, satin, viscose with a smaller degree of elastic-based materials. These materials are lightweight and supports the proposed silhouettes of the collection, giving a defined shape to the body.
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Trimmings chart
Anti-Static Lining 100% Acetate
23mm Metal Buttons
Satin Lining 100% Viscose
Polyester 4-hole Buttons Plastic Heavyweight Open End Zip 15mm
Brass jean zip
Cotton Muslin Lining 100% Cotton
Polyester Concealed Zip
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Non-Fusible Waistband Stiffening
Cotton Ribbing
Knitted Ribbing
Anti-static and satins are mostly used for the higher end pieces due to its softness and sturdiness to support fabrics like silk. Cotton lining is used for the denim jacket, to give a slightly thicker feeling. Plastic heavyweight zippers are going to be applied to the bomber jacket, to give an edgier hardware look. While brass zippers are applied to the crop top to help shape its aesthetics. Concealed zippers were used on the trousers, jumpsuits, and dresses. Ribbings will be used in the bomber jacket and sweatshirt, giving a convenient feeling to the person wearing the garment. Waistbands are used for the bottoms to help customers get in and out of the clothing easily. Buttons are used for pieces like the denim jacket and one of the shirts. Metal button is used to represent the hardware-feel to the jacket, giving a toughadventerous vibe, which connects with the theme.
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Supply Chain Stella McCartney is a UKheadquartered with a production based majority In Italy, with additional production location locally. It implements both exclusive and selective distribution strategies in its supply chain flow. During the production collection, they started from their design house in London, with a network of sustainable, cruelty- free fabric suppliers. Production is then sent to Italy conducting batch production on a majority of its pieces. Besides having flagship stores locally in London, it also has an online shopping services in its own website. Externally, it also partnered with concessions such as Selfridges and Net-a-Porter. It distributes to 100 countries worldwide, along with 600 wholesaling accounts.
PRODUCTION DESIGN
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Key areas of distribution
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Critical Path
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Costing
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Technical Sheet
HANDWASH COOL WATER MACHINE WASH 40 C MAX IRON, LOW TUMBLE DRY
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HANDWASH COOL WATER MACHINE WASH 40 C MAX IRON, LOW TUMBLE DRY
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HANDWASH DO NOT WRING DO NOT TUMBLE DRY IRON, LOW
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HANDWASH MACHINE WASH, 60 MAX DO NOT DRY CLEAN TUMBLE DRY NORMAL IRON. HIGH
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HANDWASH WITH WARM WATER MACHINE WASH. 40 MAX TUMBLE DRY, LOW HEAT IRON, LOW
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HANDWASH MACHINE WASH DELICATE, GENTLE DO NOT WRING DO NOT TUMBLE DRY IRON, LOW
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HANDWASH COOL WATER MACHINE WASH 30 C MAX DO NOT BLEACH IRON, LOW TUMBLE DRY
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HANDWASH DRYCLEAN DO NOT TUMBLE DRY IRON, LOW
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HANDWASH IN COLD WATER DRY CLEAN DO NOT WRING DO NOT TUMBLE DRY DRIP DRY IRON, LOW
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HANDWASH IN COLD WATER DRY CLEAN DO NOT WRING DO NOT TUMBLE DRY DRIP DRY IRON, LOW
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HANDWASH IN COLD WATER DRY CLEAN DO NOT WRING DO NOT TUMBLE DRY DRIP DRY IRON, LOW
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HANDWASH IN COLD WATER DRY CLEAN DO NOT WRING DO NOT TUMBLE DRY DRIP DRY IRON, LOW
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SMC001 Alicia cutout croptop 97% Cotton, 3% Elastane Size: 4-22 (UK) Wholesale: 115 RRP: 321 Colours:
SMC005 Emily split skirt 97% Polyester, 3% Elastane Size: 4-22 (UK) Wholesale: 231 RRP: 645 Colours:
SMC002 Linda sweatshirt 97% Cotton, 3% Elastane Size: 4-22 (UK) Wholesale: 238 RRP: 667 Colours:
SMC006 Juliette trousers 60% Polyester, 37% Viscose, 3% Elastane Size: 4-22 (UK) Wholesale: 240 RRP: 672 Colours:
SMC003 Mary top 20% Acetate, 80% Silk Size: 4-22 (UK) Wholesale: 159 RRP: 445 Colours:
Beatrice top 100& Cotton Size: 4-22 (UK) Wholesale: 174 RRP: 486 Colours:
SMC007 Evelyne denim jacket 97% Cotton, 3% Elastane Size: 4-22 (UK) Wholesale: 480 RRP: 1344 Colours:
SMC008 Chelsea bomber jacket 60% Polyester, 40% Silk Size: 4-22 (UK) Wholesale: 454 RRP: 1271 Colours:
SMC009 Giselle jumpsuit 100% Silk Size: 4-22 (UK) Wholesale: 912 RRP: 2552 Colours:
SMC010 Lavinia jumpsuit 70% Viscose, 30% Silk Size: 4-22 (UK) Wholesale: 988 RRP: 2765 Colours:
SMC011 Esmeralda mini dress 42% Silk, 5% Lycra, 53% Nylon Size: 4-22 (UK) Wholesale: 463 RRP: 1297 Colours:
SMC012 Seraphina midi dress 100% Silk Size: 4-22 (UK) Wholesale: 471 RRP: 1319 Colours:
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Coordination Board
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Invitation
Invitation Cover
Stella Greeting Card-style
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Spring / summer 2017 Capsule collection Friday, 30 September 2016 5.00 pm Palais Garnier Place de l’Opera 75009 Paris Paris, France RSVP: Phone: +3377856930 or E-mail: rsvp@stellamccartney.com Section ____ Row ____ Seat ____
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Invitation Envelope Sample
Transparent envelope sticker sans logo
NAME ADRESS
Spring / summer 2017 *Envelope available in other colours
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Visual Merchandising
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Each of the four racks will display the statement pieces from the capsule collection with two of the styles from each garment. The ones that were placed in the beginning of the rail are the ones considered attractive and eye-catching and expected to be sought after quickly in order to have an effective merchandise flow in the stock room. The ones placed last in the rail, are expected to sell slower.
The 21 – 23 sqm stock room will be located at the back of the store for allocation of the new pieces of the displayed and other garment styles that were not included in the rail. The garments in the stock room will be folded properly and some will be placed in a special rack inside.
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References Brand Stella McCartney. (2016). About Stella. Available: http://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/about-stella/. Last accessed 26 Feb 2016. Stella McCartney. (2016). Materials. Available: http://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/material/. Last accessed 28 Feb 2016. Vogue. (2013). Stella McCartney - SS14. Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2014/ready-to-wear/stellamccartney. Last accessed 21 Feb 2016. Vogue. (2014). Stella McCartney - SS15. Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/stellamccartney. Last accessed 21 Feb 2016. Vogue. (2015). Stella McCartney - SS16. Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ready-to-wear/stellamccartney. Last accessed 21 Feb 2016. Trends and Colours Craggs, H. (2016). Colour Update, S/S 2017 - Women & Young Women. Available: http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/64525/page/1. Last accessed 5 Mar 2016. Boddy, J. (2015). Encounter Culture, Spring/Summer 2017. Available: http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/59181/page/1. Last accessed 27 Feb 2016. Boddy, J., Sinclair, R.. (2015). The Fashion Forecast Women & Young Women SS/17 - Encounter Culture. Available: http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/59275/page/1. Last accessed 28 Feb 2016. Fabrics MacCulloch & Wallis, (2016), No.9 Plastic Heavyweight Open End Zip [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/61/open-endzips/mw/no9-plastic-heavy-weight-open-end-zip [Accessed 29 Feb 2016].
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MacCulloch & Wallis, (2016), 23mm Metal Button [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/B710-36/metal-buttons/mw/23mmmetal-button [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. MacCulloch & Wallis, (2016), Black Ribbing [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/2278/ribbings/mw/black-ribbing [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. MacCulloch & Wallis, (2016), Bodycon Jersey [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/21132/technical-fabrics/mw/bodyconjersey [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. Top Fabric of Soho, (2016), Cotton Muslin - Unbleached Natural [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.topfabric.co.uk/cotton-muslin-unbleachednatural.html [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. MacCulloch & Wallis, (2016), Crepe de chine [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/21149/crepes-drapeyfabrics/mw/crepe-de-chine [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. Pongees, (2016), Crepe de chine [ONLINE]. Available at: http://pongees.co.uk/content/228 [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. MacCulloch & Wallis, (2016), Creped Luxe Matt Jersey [ONLINE]. Available at: https://macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/20910/plain-stretch-fabrics/mw/crepedluxe-matt-jersey [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. Pongees, (2016), Duchess Stretch [ONLINE]. Available at: http://pongees.co.uk/content/2080 [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. Joel and Son Fabrics, (2016), Fuchsia Pink Stretch Cotton [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.joelandsonfabrics.com/uk/3748 [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. Top Fabric of Soho, (2016), Ivory Satin Lining [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.topfabric.co.uk/ivory-satin-lining.html [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. MacCulloch & Wallis, (2016), Knitted Ribbing [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/13544/ribbings/mw/knitted-rib [Accessed 29 Feb 2016].
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Joel and Son Fabrics, (2016), Lemon Yellow Cotton Flannel [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.joelandsonfabrics.com/uk/4226 [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. MacCulloch & Wallis, (2016), Matt Stretch [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/21140/technical-fabrics/mw/mattstretch [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. MacCulloch & Wallis, (2016), No. 3 Brass Jean Zip 23cm [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/85160-23/closed-endzips/mw/no3-brass-jean-zip-23cm [Accessed 29 Feb 2016].
MacCulloch & Wallis, (2016), Non-Fusible Waistband Stiffening [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/8161/vilene-tapeswaistbanding/mw/non-fusible-waistband-stiffening [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. MacCulloch & Wallis, (2016), Polyester 4-Hole Button [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/B913/plastic-buttons/mw/polyester-4hole-button [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. Pongees, (2016), Poly/Silk Duchess Majestic [ONLINE]. Available at: http://pongees.co.uk/content/2414 [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. MacCulloch & Wallis, (2016), Polyester concealed zip [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/p/81050-60/concealed-zips/mw/60cmpolyester-concealed-zip [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. Pongees, (2016), Viscose/Silk Satins [ONLINE]. Available at: http://pongees.co.uk/content/1760 [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. Top Fabric of Soho, (2016), White Anti-Static Lining [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.topfabric.co.uk/white-anti-static-lining.html [Accessed 29 Feb 2016]. Logos and Icons Winkreative, (2016), Stella McCartney logo [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.winkreative.com/portfolio/stella-mccartney/ [Accessed 29 Feb 2016].
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Appendices
http://www.chicobsession.com/spotted-stella-mccartney-cross-stitch-denim/ 1. Customer Profile: Age: 20 - 40 Gender: Female Job: Creative industries Income: ÂŁ5000 - ÂŁ9000 per month Hobby: Listening to music, gardening, cooking, traveling Favorite films: Indiana Jones, Velvet Goldmine Favorite music: MGMT, Florence and the Machine, Tame Impala, Moby Favorite brands: Isabel Marant, Acne Studios, Max Mara, Jil Sander Shopping frequency: A few times in a month Designer awareness: Quite aware Environmental awareness: Quite aware
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2. Competitors: The competitors of Stella McCartney listed here are chosen due to the similarities in the target customers, price range architectures and their comparable style aesthetics. Isabel Marant is a French fashion house founded by Isabel Marant in 1994. Its style aesthetics are Parisian bohemian-chic with clean, modern touch. Price Points Entry: £200-£500 Mid: £800-£1000 Exit: £ 3000+ Victoria Beckham is a fashion brand founded by Victoria Beckham in 2008. Its style aesthetics are modern, edgy with a hint of femininity and sophistication. Price Points Entry: £300-£400 Mid: £800-£1000 Exit: £2000-£4000 3.1 Phillip Lim is an American fashion label founded by Phillip Lim and Wen Zhou in 2005. Its style aesthetics are modern, casual, and youthful. Price Points Entry: £200-£500 Mid: £600-£1000 Exit: £1500+ Céline is a French fashion house founded by Céline Vipiana in 1945. Its style aesthetics are a combination of clean-cut, minimalist, innovative and classic pieces. Price Points Entry: £700+ Mid: £1000-£3000 Exit: £4000+
3. Color Trend:
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Fabrics:
Bodycon Jersey 97% Cotton, 3% Elastane Roll Width: 1.40m ÂŁ12.50/m MacCulloch and Wallis
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Stretch Cotton 97% Cotton, 3% Lycra Roll Width: 1.35m £41.90/m Joel and Son Fabrics
Italian crepe de chine 20% Acetate, 80% Silk Roll Width: 1.40m £12.50/m MacCulloch and Wallis
Cotton Flannel 100% Cotton Roll Width: 1.50m £18.90/m Joel and Son Fabrics
Matt Stretch 97% Polyester, 3% Elastane Roll Width: 1.40m £12.50/m MacCulloch and Wallis
Creped Luxe Matt Jersey
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37% Viscose, 60% Polyester, 3% Elastane Roll Width: 1.55m £12.50/m MacCulloch and Wallis
Italian light-washed denim jacket 97% Cotton, 3% Elastane Roll Width: 1.40m £12.00/m MacCulloch and Wallis
Polyester/Silk Duchess 60% Polyester, 40% Silk Roll Width: 1.40m £25.08/m Pongees
Crepe de chine 100% Silk Roll Width: 1.40m £17.06/m Pongees
Viscose/Silk Satin
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70% Viscose, 30% Silk Roll Width: 1.40m ÂŁ13.26/m Pongees
Dutchess Stretch 42% Silk, 5% Lycra, 53% Nylon Roll Width: 1.40m ÂŁ40.72/m Pongees *Note that all fabrics are rounded up in order to match the pricing architecture breakdown of core, trendy cutting edge pieces.
Advantages of Key Fabrics Cotton is a good fabric to use due to their ability to absorb, and is a relatively easy material to care for that will also last a long time. Silk is a strong natural fibre that is absorbent, lustrous and is lightweight and convenient to use Polyester is a strong material that has an advantage of being durable, resisting wrinkles, abrasion, scratches. It also dries quickly. Viscose is a relatively affordable material with high quality performance. It also requires less cleaning than similar fabrics.
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Supply Chain
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