Traditional Wassail

remaining potato water (about 1⁄2 cup) with the cornstarch in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer, whisk often until a thick gel forms, and then remove from the heat. 13. Slowly add the oat milk to the gel, whisking until the gel is thin enough to paint. 14. Brush a generous and even amount of the starch-and-oat-milk wash onto the risen bread right before placing in the oven. 15. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, rotating once halfway through. Remove once the crust is smooth and dark and the bottom is strong. When you thump the bottom with your finger, it should sound hollow. The internal temperature should be 190 to 200 F. 16. Paint the loaves again with more of the wash and let cool. Store in zip-top bags. Keep for 3 to 5 days (if they last you that long!) at room temperature, or up to 6 months if frozen. 17. If you over-proof or let the finished loaves sit out uncovered or past 5 days and they get hard, it’s French toast time.

Serves 8 to 12

5 to 6 large baking apples, peeled and cored (such as Baldwin,

Gravenstein,å McIntosh, or Stayman Winesap) 1 cup sugar 2 quarts beer or ale 2 cinnamon sticks, broken in half, or 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground ginger Zest of 1 lemon 11⁄2 cups sherry or sweet red wine

Preheat oven to 400 F. Cut the apples into thick slices, and arrange in layers in a covered casserole dish, sprinkling a few teaspoons of sugar over each layer. Cover and bake for 30 minutes. (The apples will get puffy and soft.) While the apples bake, combine the beer, spices, lemon zest, and remaining sugar in a large saucepan. Heat slowly, bringing just to a simmer. (Don’t let the mixture boil.) When it is hot, add the sherry and keep heating until the mixture reaches a simmer again, still not boiling. Place the hot baked apples in a punch bowl, and pour the hot wassail over them. Serve hot.